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Hands On: Ulysse Nardin Super Freak SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Super Freak Ulysse Nardin May 11, 2026

Hands On: Ulysse Nardin Super Freak

Ulysse Nardin (UN) celebrates 25 years of the landmark Freak with the aptly named Super Freak — a timepiece that pays homage to its predecessors while asserting its own distinct identity. Showcased at UN’s eccentric booth at Watches & Wonders 2026, the Super Freak was advertised as the most complicated time-only watch ever made — an ambitious claim that appears to be true.  Blending cutting-edge mechanics with an artisanal touch, the exuberant Super Freak comfortably reaches into the “hyper-watch” echelon, echoing the first groundbreaking Freak launched back in 2001. Ulysse Nardin also celebrates its 180th anniversary this year, so something extraordinary was to be expected.  Initial thoughts Even before going hands on with the Super Freak, just visiting UN’s booth at Watches & Wonders 2026 was an experience. Passers-by were greeted by two humanoid robots and a large sculpture of Dr Ludwig Oechslin’s head, with his eyes peering down over the proceedings.  The extravagant entrance hinted at the research-focused Super Freak, which looks and feels more like the product of some advanced laboratory rather than a 180-year-old manufacture. A very dynamic watch, the Super Freak’s face now more than ever resembles a space craft.  The Super Freak pays tribute to 25 years of the Freak while also adding something truly new to the mix. The result is the UN 252, the first Freak movement featuring running seconds and two flying tourbillons (2010’s Freak Diavolo was ...

Baltic and SpaceOne Launch the Seconde Majeure SJX Watches
Christopher Ward C12 Loco Baltic May 8, 2026

Baltic and SpaceOne Launch the Seconde Majeure

Baltic and SpaceOne have unveiled their first collaboration: the Seconde Majeure, an architectural time-only watch that employs a newly-developed jumping hours module developed by French independent watchmaker — and F.P. Journe Young Talent Winner — Théo Auffret. This collaboration was born from a meeting of the minds at Baltic’s offices more than four years ago when Mr Auffret first met Guillame Laidet. That encounter ultimately led to the creation of SpaceOne, an inventive entry level brand with space-age designs. From that chance meeting at Baltic, the two brands have teamed up on their first collaborative project. Initial thoughts On paper, these two brands are near-diametrically opposed. Baltic makes vintage-inspired watches in a traditional form, while SpaceOne takes a deconstructed and highly creative approach to watches that look like they’ve just fallen from orbit. What ties the two brands together for this collaboration is a friendship, and shared vision for how to bring thoughtful design to a lower price point. As the year unfolds, 2026 continues to feel like the year of the jumping hours watch. The Seconde Majeure is another watch reinforcing that trend, but it also taps into the growing desire for architectural watchmaking and hand finishing across wider price points in the market. In that sense, it reminds me of the Christopher Ward C12 Loco. Baltic and SpaceOne have taken an interesting path in bringing the Seconde Majeure to market, making it avail...

Artisans De Genève Reveals The Remarkable Personalized Kraft Signature Fratello
May 8, 2026

Artisans De Genève Reveals The Remarkable Personalized Kraft Signature

A few weeks ago, I wrote about the stunning timepiece that Artisans de Genève personalized for Andre Agassi. It was great to see what the brand had come up with for the world-famous tennis star, as he is one of my childhood heroes. For its latest personalization effort, Artisans de Genève was contacted by Alexander […] Visit Artisans De Genève Reveals The Remarkable Personalized Kraft Signature to read the full article.

First Look – A Fusion of History and Modernity, the Louis Moinet 1816 Tourbillon Chronograph Monochrome
Louis Moinet 1816 Tourbillon Chronograph Louis May 8, 2026

First Look – A Fusion of History and Modernity, the Louis Moinet 1816 Tourbillon Chronograph

Louis Moinet (1768-1853) wanted an accurate instrument to track celestial motions and built the Compteur de Tierces in 1815-1816. Endowed with a start, stop and reset function and a balance wheel beating at an impressive high frequency of 30Hz, his novel stopwatch could time events to the 60th of a second. Considered one of the precursors […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Fratello
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Another May 8, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier

Another Friday, another list. This week, we search for the best alternatives to the classic Cartier Tank Louis Cartier. This industry icon dates back to 1922 and has become one of the most imitated watches in the world. That’s more than enough reason to look at a list of five alternatives that didn’t just copy […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier to read the full article.

Hands-On with the New Releases from Naoya Hida Worn & Wound
Ming Naoya Hida releases May 7, 2026

Hands-On with the New Releases from Naoya Hida

One of my favorite days on the watch media calendar every year is the Naoya Hida preview day. Every spring for the last few years, watch media types make appointments at the Armoury on the Upper East Side to get a look at the upcoming Naoya Hida releases for the year. It feels like a very old fashioned way of doing things. Yes, there’s a press release sent out ahead of time, but Naoya Hida only makes one announcement like this per year – there are no mid-cycle drops or limited editions released to coincide with some later event. Members of the Naoya Hida team are present and there to explain the collection, piece by piece.  This year, Naoya Hida will produce a total of 10 models, 7 of which are new designs. We won’t go through each one here, but rather focus on the references that are completely new and those that have the most notable upgrades.  The reference that immediately caught my eye and was easily the most unexpected of the bunch is the new NH TYPE2C-2. To this point, Naoya Hida has really been defined, in my estimation, by their dial aesthetic, which prominently features elaborate hand engravings in the dial surface. It’s a very traditional and inherently ornate way to make a dial, and the execution is always top notch. It’s a type of craft that’s a true “IYKYK” proposition, though. From a distance the handwork on these dials might not be obvious, but they really come alive under close examination, especially under a loupe.  Anyway, the TYPE2C-2...

Daniel Roth’s Latest is Extra Plat-inum SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s La Fabrique du May 7, 2026

Daniel Roth’s Latest is Extra Plat-inum

Daniel Roth’s latest addition to its time-only portfolio is the Extra Plat Platinum. A familiar face in a new colourway, the Extra Plat offers the Tourbillon Platinum‘s stealthy look in a more accessible two-hand format. Powered by the DR002 in-house calibre developed by Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), this regular production model brings a decidedly subtle look to the brand’s simple dress watch. Initial thoughts It’s been interesting to observe Louis Vuitton’s confident foray into haute horlogerie through the revival of Daniel Roth. Despite the corporate structure, astute collectors continue to speak of Daniel Roth in the same breath as other leading independent watchmakers. To the independent-collecting cognoscenti, the platinum Extra Plat should prove a compelling option – rooted in the early history of the independent watchmaking movement but built to meet contemporary expectations. Following Daniel Roth’s launch of the Tourbillon Souscription, the time-only, manually wound Extra Plat — “extra flat” for non-French speakers — debuted in an 18k yellow gold souscription edition followed closely by regular production models in rose gold, with and without skeletonisation. The new platinum Extra Plat rounds out the set. Combined with the matching dial with contrasting finishes, it creates a rather stealthy profile for this otherwise opulently finished dress watch. Extra Plat-inum The platinum double-ellipse case shares the wrist-friendly d...

Over the Hill: Understanding High-Tech Ceramic on the Material’s 40th Birthday Worn & Wound
Rado May 6, 2026

Over the Hill: Understanding High-Tech Ceramic on the Material’s 40th Birthday

Material innovation is increasingly becoming a core pillar within the watch industry. Whether borrowing and reconfiguring materials from different industries or composing your own from the ground up, it is clear materials matter when it comes to both technical feats and aesthetics achieved in watchmaking today. Sometimes, I like to think of these cutting-edge materials as mile markers on the highway of horology. I am always considering the world 50 or 100 years from now, when the watches of the present will become the watches of yesteryear, when what we consider modern will become vintage. I believe that the application of new materials will be a mark of this era of watchmaking that will serve as a milestone moment in the ever-unfolding history of horology. For Rado, the story starts with a sapphire crystal. While the brand was not the first to use this in place of acrylic or other weaker options, it was among the early adopters. However, Rado took it a step further by patenting a sliding water-sealed mechanism with a tension-fit construction. Here, the thick, faceted sapphire crystal was secured under high pressure into the oval-shaped hard metal case with a specialized gasket, designed to be exceptionally tight. Its effectiveness sparked further curiosity – what if this same scratch resistance and robustness could be applied to other parts of the watch or the watch in its entirety? With that guiding principle, the quest that would lead to the creation of high-tech cera...

Holocaust Survivor’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual To Go Up For Auction Fratello
Rolex Oyster Perpetual May 6, 2026

Holocaust Survivor’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual To Go Up For Auction

We have covered quite a few historical stories about Rolex here on the Fratello site. Today, we have another, this time about a special gold Oyster Perpetual that belonged to Holocaust survivor Kurt Kahn. Let’s dive in. Some watches merely tell time, while others tell stories. Very rarely, one encounters a piece that does both […] Visit Holocaust Survivor’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual To Go Up For Auction to read the full article.

Auctions: Continuing Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Christie’s and Sotheby’s Round Things Out (Part 2) Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Observatory-style watch Photo courtesy May 5, 2026

Auctions: Continuing Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Christie’s and Sotheby’s Round Things Out (Part 2)

There's no shortage of watches this auction season—more than 1,200 lots across the major houses—but volume isn't really the story. At Christie's and Sotheby's, the focus feels different this time around, moving past the hype-driven pieces of the early 2020s and back to some genuinely compelling and surprising watches. Last week, we published part one of our preview—today, we're finishing it up with part two. Christie’s I would argue that Christie's always has one of the more subtle and yet impressive catalogs. There are some truly fantastic pieces here and, as always, we'll start at the top. Lot 134, a unique and absolutely stunningly gorgeous (add all the superlatives you want) two-tone 14k pink gold and steel Audemars Piguet "Observatory-style" watch. Photo courtesy Christie's. If you're looking for a watch that my friend and current "Bring a Loupe" writer Weston Cutter called an "immediate knee-weakener," you need to sit down for this one. Lot 134 is a unique and absolutely stunningly gorgeous (add all the superlatives you want) two-tone 14k pink gold and steel Audemars Piguet "Observatory-style" watch. The watch is powered by a 13-ligne 13VZAS movement that was highly modified for precision as a time-only watch, with a large subsidiary seconds at 9 o'clock and a blank subdial at 3 o'clock. Bold numerals, bold design, it's the kind of thing you dream about if you collect early watches, and the estimate is a hilarious CHF 50,000 to 100,000. It should go for way m...

Introducing – The new MeisterSinger Unitas 1Z Edition, with Enamel Dial Monochrome
Meistersinger Unitas 1Z Edition May 5, 2026

Introducing – The new MeisterSinger Unitas 1Z Edition, with Enamel Dial

Time does not need to be dissected into seconds to be meaningful. This distinctive idea has been essential to MeisterSinger for 25 years. The brand’s single-hand watches deliberately slow the reading of time, changing the focus from precision to perception. To mark its anniversary, MeisterSinger looks back at one of its earlier and most important […]

Hands-On: The Tudor Monarch Hodinkee
Tudor Monarch It ain't always May 4, 2026

Hands-On: The Tudor Monarch

It ain't always Black Bays and Pelagi at Tudor. At least, not all the time. Since the brand returned to the U.S. market in 2012, Tudor's success has been rooted in the broad appeal of watches like the Heritage Chronograph, the Pelagos, and, of course, the Black Bay. These are heritage-coded, conventional watches that nailed the price point, specs, and aesthetic demanded by the enthusiast market at the time. In the preceding decade, we saw that formula become a playbook as the Pelagos and Black Bay evolved into increasingly specific slices of that original concept. But what about the Tudors that fall outside of the playbook? Remember the North Flag or the Fastrider? What about the Black Bay P01? While the playbook has successfully executed moves for left-side crowns, silver cases, and channel lugs, not all of the brand's explorations into other formats have been smash hits. And it's not merely a question of having a historical footing, sure, the North Flag and Fastrider were quite modern, but the P01 was a functional deep cut from the brand's archives. As a watch brand, a music act, heck, as just about anything in our oh-so-branded world, it can be hard to operate outside of "your lane". That can include what is actually your lane or what has become your lane in the current context of a given brand's media. For 2026 at Watches and Wonders, Tudor stuck to the playbook, offering refinement, additional specs, new bracelets, and the like – except for one watch, the Monarch. A...

Announcements: Hodinkee Australia And New Zealand Is Live Hodinkee
May 4, 2026

Announcements: Hodinkee Australia And New Zealand Is Live

At Hodinkee, we have always believed that watch collecting is a global language, but one that is spoken with many different local accents. From the paved paths of Geneva to the neon-lit boutiques of Ginza and the steamy streets of New York City, the love for a mechanical heartbeat remains the same, yet the way we live with our watches is shaped entirely by the world around us. Today, we are thrilled to announce the next chapter in our journey: the official launch of Hodinkee Australia & New Zealand. The ANZ watch community has long been one of the most sophisticated and passionate in the world. For years, we've watched from New York as the Aussies and Kiwis became some of our communities' most ardent enthusiasts, known for a taste profile that is as rugged as it is refined. To bring Hodinkee to the region, we have partnered with Switzer Media + Publishing. With over 30 years of history, Switzer is one of Australia's most trusted names in media, already stewarding iconic titles like Harper's BAZAAR, Esquire, and Men's Health. This partnership functions as a local element from day one.  Speaking from my own perspective, with the continued success of Hodinkee Japan, I'm thrilled to be working with Jamie and the team at Switzer Media to offer a more locally relevant and engaging edition of Hodinkee for watch enthusiasts across Australia and New Zealand. The watch community in Australia and New Zealand is engaged, highly knowledgeable, and always an active part of the global c...

SJX Podcast: Independent Highlights from Geneva SJX Watches
May 4, 2026

SJX Podcast: Independent Highlights from Geneva

During Watches & Wonders, all eyes are on the major brands exhibiting inside the cavernous Palexpo. Episode 38 of the SJX Podcast rounds up the highlights from the smaller fairs like AHCI and Time to Watches, and the independents exhibiting on their own around town. Among the standouts were Mathieu Cleguer, who debuted a novel escapement of his own design, Dominique Renaud who launched a 1 Hz balance, and Franc Vila, who seems to be entering a new era of creativity. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Panerai Pushes Material Science With Its New Submersible Navy SEALs Afniotech Experience PAM01089 In A Hafnium Case Fratello
Panerai Pushes Material Science May 3, 2026

Panerai Pushes Material Science With Its New Submersible Navy SEALs Afniotech Experience PAM01089 In A Hafnium Case

Panerai excels at advancing watchmaking through bold material innovation. Its latest breakthrough introduces the world’s first watch case machined from hafnium. The metal appears here in a 47mm Submersible case. Hafnium ranks among the rarest industrial metals on Earth. Global output measures only a few dozen tons annually. The element exists solely within zirconium ores […] Visit Panerai Pushes Material Science With Its New Submersible Navy SEALs Afniotech Experience PAM01089 In A Hafnium Case to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar Vs. IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Perpetual May 3, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar Vs. IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41

Another week, another Sunday Morning Showdown. We hope you are enjoying some well-deserved time off and a good weekend breakfast. Lean back in your chair, folks, because we have a proper heavyweight bout scheduled for you! This week, we pit two stainless steel perpetual calendars with integrated bracelets and blue dials against each other. Thomas […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar Vs. IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 to read the full article.

The Rivanera Gets Echo/Neutralized By Seconde/Seconde/ Fratello
May 1, 2026

The Rivanera Gets Echo/Neutralized By Seconde/Seconde/

It’s always fun to see a seconde/seconde/ take on a popular watch. With the many whimsical releases Romaric André created while collaborating with brands, you sometimes wonder whether he is ever short of good ideas. So far, though, that hasn’t been a problem. If anything, I have seen the releases become better over time. The […] Visit The Rivanera Gets Echo/Neutralized By Seconde/Seconde/ to read the full article.

Zenith Introduces the Latest Chronomaster Revival A384, a Study in Patina Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces May 1, 2026

Zenith Introduces the Latest Chronomaster Revival A384, a Study in Patina

Zenith has launched the latest version of their popular Chronomaster Revival A384, a line that takes the iconic case of the A384 and often plays with color and materials as a platform for a modern El Primero movement. The A384, for me, has always been the most interesting of the Zenith heritage releases. It feels truly transported from another time, fully intact, largely thanks to the iconic ladder bracelet that we often see included with these references (more on that in a minute). This particular release really leans into a very specific vintage look, and I imagine will be warmly welcomed by modern Zenith enthusiasts who appreciate and collect vintage Zenith as well.  The story here, clearly, is the brown used as an accent color to evoke natural patina that vintage watch collectors often prize over perfectly preserved watches. A so-called “tropical” dial occurs over a long stretch of time when a watch is exposed to the outside world, the sun’s rays slowly fading the color present in the original dial. This will often result in a brown or tan color to emerge from black paint, which is particularly noticeable on chronographs with black subdials, which is what Zenith is going for here. But the “tropical” effect can, in theory, be applied to any color, and change blues, greens, and reds in unexpected ways.  Here we have a white dial with a very subtle grain and brown subdials at 3, 6, and 9, for the chronograph minutes, chronograph hours, and running seconds, res...

Hands-On: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One SJX Watches
Voutilainen May 1, 2026

Hands-On: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One

Mathieu Cleguer makes his debut under his own name, with the intricate Inspiration One. The relatively young movement constructor is well known in the industry but has not produced watches under his own name until now. Having worked for various movement specialists — including a stint at Akrivia — Mr Cleguer launches Cleguer Horology with a thoroughly impressive debut featuring a proprietary escapement.  Initial thoughts Although the market for artisanal time-only watches has becoming increasingly crowded, sometimes a new creation comes along that genuinely stands apart. This is the case with Cleguer Horology’s Inspiration One — a watch that that is surprisingly refined and technically imaginative for a new maker’s debut. Mathieu Cleguer is representative of a new class of independent watchmakers who are not ‘watchmakers’ in the traditional sense. Instead, he is an engineer, with the training and experience to bring fundamentally new concepts to life, so long as he can find the manufacturing partners and bench watchmakers to help realise his vision. It’s a fundamentally different background than what we’re used to seeing — George Daniels, Kari Voutilainen, and François-Paul Journe started their careers doing hands-on restoration work long before they designed movements of their own. But times have changed, and the emergence of engineer-led brands is a new trend made possible by the depth of the supplier network in Switzerland. For the visual design of...

Summiting Mountains With A Tudor Heritage Ranger Fratello
Tudor Heritage Ranger I have May 1, 2026

Summiting Mountains With A Tudor Heritage Ranger

I have always believed that the best watches don’t merely time. Just as importantly, they also tell stories. Some carry the quiet rhythm of daily life, while others absorb something more visceral — altitude, effort, risk, and reward. When I spoke with Amarveer Brar, it became clear that his Tudor Heritage Ranger ref. 79910 belongs […] Visit Summiting Mountains With A Tudor Heritage Ranger to read the full article.