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Lustau 125th Anniversary Sherry: Spanish Liquid Gold Quill & Pad
Feb 24, 2022

Lustau 125th Anniversary Sherry: Spanish Liquid Gold

To celebrate its 125th anniversary in 2021, Lustau released a set of three special sherries at the end of last year. These only come as a set, and there are only 2,500 bottles of each of the trio. Beautifully packaged, they have never been seen before, and they represent not only the history and the very DNA of Lustau, but also the three towns of the sherry triangle with one wine from each. Ken Gargett thinks that for sherry lovers these are an absolute must.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Feb 24, 2022

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”

One of Patek Philippe’s longest standing and most important retailers in Asia, Cortina Watch celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2022. In that half century, Cortina has grown from a single store in Singapore to one of the biggest retailers in Southeast Asia with a network of 45 stores and remains controlled by the founding Lim family. As it was with its 25th anniversary in 1997, Cortina is marking the milestone with a limited edition Patek Philippe – the same model in a different guise in fact. The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary” preserves the design of the earlier anniversary edition, but dresses it up in a more contemporary grey and silver livery. Importantly, the ref. 5057 was a brand-new reference conceived for Cortina, which means the new edition is only the second time that the reference is seeing light of day. Initial thoughts The ref. 5057G is notable in several ways. For one, it is unusual amongst retailer editions in having complications instead of being a time-and-date Calatrava, no doubt a reflection of the especially strong ties between the Stern and Lim families. Second, the ref. 5057G harks back to the watchmaker’s aesthetic of the 1990s with its dial and hobnail bezel. This sets it apart from Patek Philippe’s recent watches, which mostly have a more contemporary style. And the ref. 5057G is intrinsically attractive. I have yet to see the watch in person, but I’ve examined the preceding ref. 5057R several ...

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils Feb 20, 2022

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked

Implemented in models across Audemars Piguet’s catalogue, the tourbillon has been found in the Royal Oak since 1997, though it’s only recently that the model got a major upgrade with the automatic flying tourbillon introduced last year. Audemars Piguet has now taken the covers off its skeletonised sibling, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked (ref. 26735). The new model is equipped with the brand-new cal. 2792, an automatic movement that’s modern in both aesthetics and construction, with thoughtful details that are typical of Audemars Piguet’s approach to movement construction. The cal. 2792 with the Royal Oak 50th anniversary rotor that’ll be available only during 2022 Initial thoughts The new Royal Oak tourbillon is interesting for its modern aesthetics, particularly in terms of the movement. Despite being a decades-old design, the Royal Oak tourbillon manages to be original in style thanks in part to the calibre. But the movement is more than just a styling exercise. It incorporates several details that are cleverly engineered, which speaks to the watchmaker’s effort in making timepieces that are rooted in contemporary watchmaking concepts. Even though skeletonised watches are neither new nor rare, the exposed mechanics are still intriguing, allowing geeks to connect the dots between the visible parts on the front and back. And as is typical of AP skeleton movements, the cal. 2972 is finished in a manner that is very much modern haute ho...

Corum Classical Billionaire: A Unique Piece That, While Pricey, Isn’t (Quite) As Expensive As It Looks And Its Name Suggests Quill & Pad
Corum Classical Billionaire Feb 17, 2022

Corum Classical Billionaire: A Unique Piece That, While Pricey, Isn’t (Quite) As Expensive As It Looks And Its Name Suggests

If there is one thing Martin Green likes, it is a well-designed diamond-set watch. And while there are quite a few around, there aren’t many as good as the Corum Classical Billionaire, which focuses on displaying the art of diamond cutting and setting. No less than 424 diamonds (for a total of 13.46 carats) decorate the white gold case. That is a lot of stones, but diamonds alone don't automatically make for a great watch. It’s the way that the gems are cut and set that ultimately decides if they add something more than just their precious and pricey nature.

Fly fishing in New Zealand with the Seiko Alpinist Time+Tide
Seiko Alpinist Many people will Feb 17, 2022

Fly fishing in New Zealand with the Seiko Alpinist

Many people will celebrate a milestone event by purchasing a new watch but you can also add milestone memories to a watch already in your collection. A short time ago my good friend, Mark, invited me to join him on a guided fly-fishing expedition out of Wanaka, New Zealand, with local guide Jake Berry. I … ContinuedThe post Fly fishing in New Zealand with the Seiko Alpinist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

With the Nautilus 5711 now gone, three independents look to usurp the integrated sports watch throne Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5711 across Feb 13, 2022

With the Nautilus 5711 now gone, three independents look to usurp the integrated sports watch throne

I know that 5711 Nautilus talk is getting a bit old. Run ending green dials, Tiffany blue dial madness, $6.5m dollar bids at auction etc. But now it really is gone. Done. The Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711, across all metals, have been removed from the catalogue. While this discontinuation has skyrocketed the secondary premiums … ContinuedThe post With the Nautilus 5711 now gone, three independents look to usurp the integrated sports watch throne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The NOVE Gemini is an elaborate alt take on a reversible-dial watch Time+Tide
Feb 10, 2022

The NOVE Gemini is an elaborate alt take on a reversible-dial watch

Oversaturation is real in the world of microbrands. Just count how many vintage or retro-inspired $300 dive watches you see scrolling through the pages on Kickstarter, and you’ll know exactly what I mean. This is why true novelty with substance can rarely be found, as those claiming to offer it often lean the wrong side … ContinuedThe post The NOVE Gemini is an elaborate alt take on a reversible-dial watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Havid Nagan Debuts with the Clean and Geometric HN00 SJX Watches
Havid Nagan Feb 9, 2022

Havid Nagan Debuts with the Clean and Geometric HN00

After two years of development, Havid Nagan has finally made its debut with the HN00 Titanium. An unusually well-honed design for the inaugural watch of a brand that originated on Kickstarter, the HN00 combines an original case with an attractive guilloche dial, as well as a respectable micro-rotor movement. The genesis of Havid Nagan lay in its founder Aren Bazerkanian’s goal of producing a relatively accessible watch that incorporates elements typically found in pricier timepieces. So Mr Bazerkanian launched a modest Kickstarter campaign in 2019 to fund the prototyping process. Initial thoughts The HN00 is notable for managing a fairly original design that contains thoughtful details. Most impressive is the barleycorn guilloche dial covered in glossy, lacquer that mimics enamel. While the pattern is common, the HN00 dial is especially fine, especially around the centre of the dial where the grain converges and diminishes in size. Importantly, the dial has done away with superfluous elements such as a date or seconds hand, which presents the guilloche in all its glory. Even with the proliferation of the cushion-shaped case, the squarish case of the HN00 stands on its own. It avoids calling to mind watches from the likes of Panerai or Patek Philippe. The dimensions of the case are restrained, though it does feel a bit on the thick because neither the bezel nor the case back are sloped, while the case middle is tall, resulting in substantial verticality. At US$8...

Parmigiani La Rose Carrée: A Perfect Symbiosis Of Geometry, Nature, And Horology Quill & Pad
Feb 1, 2022

Parmigiani La Rose Carrée: A Perfect Symbiosis Of Geometry, Nature, And Horology

The Fibonacci number sequence is a discovery of mathematics and nature that has both amazed and confounded the scientific community for centuries. And it is the inspiration for the stunning engravings on the unique La Rose Carrée, a masterfully restored grande sonnerie minute repeater pocket watch made to celebrate the twenty-fifth anniversary of Parmigiani and launched to mark the seventieth birthday of the brand’s founder and master restorer, Michel Parmigiani.

Bulgari Debuts the Smallest Movement of 21st Century SJX Watches
Bulgari Debuts Jan 31, 2022

Bulgari Debuts the Smallest Movement of 21st Century

Bulgari is starting the year big with something impressively tiny – the hand-wind BVL 100 Piccolissimo that’s the smallest mechanical movement of the 21st century at just 12.3 mm wide and 2.5 mm tall. The minuscule movement makes it debut in the latest version of Bulgari’s iconic snake-bangle wristwatch – it is one o the most iconic jewellery watches of all time in fact – the Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery Secret Watch. While many versions of the Serpenti bracelet have been equipped with quartz movements in recent years, the BVL 100 means the watch within the snake’s head is once again mechanical, just like the originals of the 1950s. The tiny barrel bridge of the BVL 100 Initial thoughts While the Serpenti Misteriosi is a high-jewellery watch that has little practical appeal for most watch collectors, it’s difficult to easy to appreciate watch for its combination of design, craft, and of course the technical achievement of the BVL100. Amusingly enough, the Serpenti Misteriosi is, technically speaking, an integrated-bracelet watch with a reversible dial – two features highly coveted in the watch world – though the lavish jewels and lacquer disguises most of its horological qualities, which also illustrates the power of the iconic design. The forked tongue is a trigger to open the snake’s head, revealing the time below But over-the-top style is only useful for a specific audience – and specific occasions – so for the rest of us, there’s the ...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Tiger” SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Jan 27, 2022

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Tiger”

With 2022 being the Year of the Tiger in the Chinese Zodiac, tiger-themed watches started to proliferate since late last year. One of the most striking tiger-themed watches is also one of the most discreet, revealing its roaring tiger only on the reverse. The Reverso Tribute Enamel “Tiger” is a sharp but simple on the front, while its reverse depicts a tiger leaping out of the clouds. Unusually, the decoration combines both enamel and engraving, making it more elaborate than the typical enamelled Reverso. Initial thoughts The quintessential enamelled Reverso is a miniature painting in polychrome enamel – a specialty of Jaeger-LeCoultre since the 1990s. The Reverso “Tiger” in contrast, is a stately black and gold. Even though the “Tiger” dials back on the colours, it is a striking and beautiful watch. The simplicity at a distance gives away to detail when you examine the roaring tiger on the back, which is executed in low relief. It leaps out of a black background that is actually fired enamel. At the same time, this combination of figurative engraving in addition to enamel is a first for Jaeger-LeCoultre, at least in recent years, making the “Tiger” a rather special watch. Naturally the elaborate decoration comes at a price – €90,000 before taxes to be exact. That’s about US$100,000 and about the same as past Reverso models with miniature enamel paintings. Delicate work The engraved tiger takes form after the back has been enamelled. So the process ...

Seiko Revives the King Seiko SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Jan 26, 2022

Seiko Revives the King Seiko

Introduced just over a year ago, the King Seiko KSK “44KS” Re-creation SJE083 was the surprise comeback of the King Seiko label that had been dormant for decades. Though it was a limited edition, the SJE083 hinted at the possibility of King Seiko returning as a regular production offering. Perhaps quicker than expected, that has happened with the introduction of the King Seiko. A single model that’s in four variants, the new King Seiko is effectively vintage in both size and style, being modelled on the original KSK of 1965. The original King Seiko KSK of 1965 Initial thoughts Sitting in between Grand Seiko and the Seiko Presage in both price and positioning, King Seiko is the brand’s affordable entry into vintage-inspired design – while incorporating Grand Seiko vibes – with its sharply faceted case and, for the first time, a bracelet. The bracelet gives the new King Seiko something of an integrated-bracelet feel, which puts it in competition with more modern offerings, including the Citizen Series 8. But the new King Seiko stands out for its old-school design that’s faithful to the original. The strict adherence to historical design is the norm for Seiko remakes, although most of the brand’s remakes have been limited editions. Because King Seiko a regular production offering, it is far more accessible, both in terms of price and availability. It does away with the date, unlike the earlier SJE083 The only possible drawback is repositioning of King Seiko,...

Up Close: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Having Jan 23, 2022

Up Close: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor

Having enjoyed modest success with its affordable(ish) Tonda GT sports watch launched two years ago, Parmigiani tweaked the concept and debuted a more refined – and pricier – sports watch last year, the Tonda PF. The line up includes the base-model Micro-Rotor in steel reviewed here, along with a chronograph and annual calendar. The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor in steel Taking generous inspiration from the brand’s more classical timepieces, the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is a luxury-sports watch with an integrated bracelet. While the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor doesn’t deviate much from the familiar formula for a luxury-sports watch, it does excel in a few ways, helping it stand out from the competition, most notably with its minimalist dial and ultra-thin automatic movement that are both executed to a high level. And its bigger brother, the Tonda PF Chronograph in pink gold Initial thoughts The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is surprisingly thin, making it seem slightly wider than its 40 mm diameter. But it sits flat and elegant, with the lines of the case flowing into the bracelet, giving it a sleek look on the wrist. Despite its delicate looks, the Micro-Rotor (along with the rest of the Tonda PF range) is water resistant to a respectable 100 m. Unlike many of Parmigiani’s recent models (including its more affordable sports watch, the Tonda GT), the Tonda PF is minimalist in terms of styling. And the Micro-Rotor, being the simplest watch in the collection, is the most pared back. Its di...

The Horological Reason Behind The Rise Of The Super SUVs (Satire) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jan 23, 2022

The Horological Reason Behind The Rise Of The Super SUVs (Satire) – Reprise

There was a time when the walls of many children's rooms were decorated with images of iconic supercars cars like the Ferrari Testarossa, Porsche 959, Lamborghini Countach, and McLaren F1. Today those same walls in the rooms of a new generation of kids are decorated by a completely different type of car: the super SUV. Martin Green explains why in this satirical editorial.

Obituary: Giovanni Zavota, Vintage Watch Dealer (1952-2022) SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2481 Jan 21, 2022

Obituary: Giovanni Zavota, Vintage Watch Dealer (1952-2022)

A distinctive gentleman whose trademark outfit always called for multiple scarves looped around his neck, Giovanni Zavota was one of the old-school Italian dealers who shaped vintage watch collecting of the late 20th century, having sold some of the most important wristwatches – amongst them a steel ref. 1518 and the platinum ref. 2499. He passed away on 15 January, aged 69. I would see him each time I went to Geneva for the auctions and he was clearly an original character. He was most comfortable conversing in Italian, which I speak none of, so we only spoke briefly a few times. But one occasion that stands out in my memory is when I encountered him in Italy and he was wearing a Patek Philippe ref. 2481 with a cloisonné dial – and a matching bracelet – on one wrist, and on the other he had on a crisp and enormous Longines Lindbergh. Two watches of different style and disparate value, yet each interesting and important in its own way – a sure sign the man had good taste and understood historical significance. Giovanni Zavota. Photo – Auro Montanari A testament to his place in the world of vintage watches – specifically the pre-internet world – was the turnout at his funeral, which took place on January 18 in Collecchio, a small town just south of Parma where he had spent his summers as a boy. Almost a hundred people turned up, including family and old friends, but also a large contingent that exemplified the Italian-centric, late-20th century world of vinta...

Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories in Singapore SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories Jan 20, 2022

Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories in Singapore

Having celebrated the 90th anniversary of the Reverso last year with several limited editions – including the mega-complicated Quadriptyque with four faces – Jaeger-LeCoultre is revisiting its iconic swivelling wristwatch with a retrospective in Singapore. Open to the public from January 23, the event takes place in the brand’s boutique in the Marina Bay Sands casino and shopping complex. The store has been transformed into a miniature museum that includes exhibits of historical watches and material, and also interactive sessions where visitors can try their hands at perlage, the technique of applying a repeating circular graining often found in watch movements. 1931-2021 The retrospective includes a compact but all-encompassing line up of watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s museum in Le Sentier, including the very first Reverso from 1931 as well as the latest models conceived to mark the 90th anniversary. While the original Reverso is famed for its clever simplicity, the exhibits also include little-known variations such as the Reverso Cordonnet from 1933, a stylish Reverso for ladies that has a black-cord strap and two-tone case. And the exhibits naturally include the uncommon, highly-complicated models from the 1990s, when the brand first ventured into larger cases for the Reverso – and first started both sides of the case for displays. In fact, some of those watches are landmarks in Jaeger-LeCoultre history: the brand’s first-ever tourbillon as well as chim...

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jan 17, 2022

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch”

Though it was two years ago as the Grand Seiko’s flagship Spring Drive movement, the 9RA5 still feels new, simply because the latest-generation movement hasn’t found its way into many watches, save for a pair of limited editions. Now it finally makes it into a regular-production model, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch”. The latest Spring Drive, like the mechanical SLGH005, is inspired by the tree of the same name that’s native to the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi. Initial thoughts The SLGH009 “White Birch” clearly becomes the Grand Seiko’s showcase Spring Drive – it resembles the previous generation’s bestseller, the famous “Snowflake”, but is substantially upgraded in terms of features and finish. The combination of familiar styling and improved quality makes it attractive. Part of the appeal lies in the 9RA5 movement, which on the surface seems like a mere upgrade over the predecessor 9R65. But it is more than just the power reserve being increased to five days, and the new calibre boasts an entirely new architecture, including both a new gear train and integrated circuit for the Spring Drive regulator, as well as a better finishing. The other aspect of its appeal lies in the design, which has dubbed “Evolution 9”. As always is the case with Grand Seiko, Evolution 9 is inspired by vintage Grand Seiko models, but brings with it a sense of solidity and refinement, thanks to the flatter case, heftier bracelet, a...

5 Of The Coolest Gray Dials From Breguet, IWC, Chopard, Glashütte Original, And Tutima To Celebrate “Ultimate Gray” As A Pantone 2021 Color Of The Year – Reprise Quill & Pad
Glashütte Original Jan 15, 2022

5 Of The Coolest Gray Dials From Breguet, IWC, Chopard, Glashütte Original, And Tutima To Celebrate “Ultimate Gray” As A Pantone 2021 Color Of The Year – Reprise

With a still-ongoing pandemic, some might think it quite fitting that the Pantone Color Institute chose Ultimate Gray 17-5104 as one of its two Colors of the Year for 2021. Check out these five elegant timepieces with gray dials that are available now and decide for yourself if gray brightens your day as much as that of Sabine Zwettler.

In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronogr... Jan 11, 2022

In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’

When Vacheron Constantin celebrated its 260th anniversary in 2015 with the Harmony collection of cushion-shaped watches, the standout was easily the split-seconds chronograph. Seemingly ordinary on its face, the Harmony split-seconds was powered by the cal. 3500, an all-new rattrapante chronograph calibre with a novel automatic winding mechanism. The movement was gorgeous, but disappeared from the catalogue – until last year. The cal. 3500 made its comeback with the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Like the other Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) watches, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is a limited edition – only 15 pieces in fact – that utilises platinum generously throughout the watch, but it is unique as there is no standard production equivalent in the catalogue. In short, it is a special watch. The cal. 3500 with its intricate chronograph mechanism and novel peripheral rotor Initial thoughts On its face, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is an elegant watch with a restrained, almost simple style. Its proportions are wide and slim, creating a graceful profile. The thinness exaggerates the case diameter slightly, so it does seem a bit wider than it is, especially with the longish lugs. In typical CEP style, the dial is nearly monochromatic, rendered in grey and silver, with the only colour coming from the indicator hands for the chronograph and power reserve. It’s a simple combination, but a good one. The pla...

Maxim Sushkov Unveils Another Custom Time-Only SJX Watches
Jan 9, 2022

Maxim Sushkov Unveils Another Custom Time-Only

Best known for his versatile repertoire and customised watches, Russian watchmaker Maxim Sushkov recently realised the vision of a Scottish watch collector, who wanted a one-off, time-only watch. The result has been christened Dark Sky. Despite its simple format, the new watch incorporates several interesting details that help it stand out from the sea of industrially-produced timepieces that dominate in this price range. Initial thoughts As is the case with most of Mr Sushkov’s projects, the Dark Sky is basic in terms of function, but it scores well for aesthetics. It’s essentially a three-hand watch with unusual details, including a mother-of-pearl dial with pink accents and wavy guilloche on the seconds register. The owner’s inclinations are evident in the watch, because Mr Sushkov is able to accommodate a large degree of customisation, since he operates his own work workshop and produces most parts from scratch, including the hands, dials, and even cases. The personalised and artisanal experience has long been a primary draw of independent watchmaking, but that experience often comes with high prices and a long waitlist, especially now. Mr Sushkov’s work is unusual in its affordability. The Dark Sky costs €4,500 before taxes – entirely affordable and strong value considering the degree of customisation and the magnitude of workmanship required to accomplish that customisation. Pink and pearlescent The most eye-catching element of the Dark Sky is indeed th...