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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

The Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic in green and gold is retro chic

Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic Apr 2, 2023

The Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic in green and gold is retro chic

The new Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic is now also available in green and gold PVD. The DS-2 Chronograph is based on the vintage DS-2 Chronolympic reference 8601 800. The green and gold colour scheme perfectly fits the retro tonneau case. Certina’s expansion of their vintage-inspired sports watch catalogue is an exciting prospect for those who … ContinuedThe post The Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic in green and gold is retro chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches and Wonders Affordable GMT Alternatives From The Shop

Watches and Wonders Affordable GMT Alternatives From The Shop

A week has nearly come and gone at Watches and Wonders. In the span of a few days, dozens of brands have released hundreds of new watches. So much has come out that at times it can feel overwhelming (unless you’re following the Worn and Wound team, where they’ve been on top of all the latest news and releases). A week has nearly come and gone at Watches and Wonders. In the span of a few days, dozens of brands have released hundreds of new watches. So much has come out that at times it can feel overwhelming (unless you’re following the Worn and Wound team, where they’ve been on top of all the latest news and releases). The post Watches and Wonders Affordable GMT Alternatives From The Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The new Rolex Perpetual 1908 exudes class

Rolex Perpetual 1908 exudes class Apr 1, 2023

The new Rolex Perpetual 1908 exudes class

The teasers pretty much confirmed it – Rolex is finally paying attention to the Cellini! Well, as it proves year in, year out, the rumours are only sort of true. Rather than a revised Cellini, Rolex is presenting an entirely new model – the Perpetual 1908, marking the beginnings of a new collection. If you … ContinuedThe post The new Rolex Perpetual 1908 exudes class appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration has a bubbly personality

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration has Mar 31, 2023

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration has a bubbly personality

The new Oyster Perpetual Celebration is proof that the crown knows how to party Bubbly dials take on the colours of Stella-inspired OPs that sky-rocketed in popularity over the last few years Available in 31, 36 and 41 millimetre case sizes Rolex clearly tried to do their best to please as many of their fans … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration has a bubbly personality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The HYT Conical Tourbillon is a visual blend of horology and science fiction

HYT Mar 31, 2023

The HYT Conical Tourbillon is a visual blend of horology and science fiction

The new HYT Conical Tourbillon culminates HYT’s decade of technological advancement. Their exclusive mechanical fluidic technology blends seamlessly alongside traditional techniques such as glassblowing. The Conical Tourbillon is accentuated by a series of animated flying orbs. Despite a few rocky years including bankruptcy and resurrection, the unparalleled brand HYT is celebrating a decade of innovation … ContinuedThe post The HYT Conical Tourbillon is a visual blend of horology and science fiction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Reaction: Rolex Gets Silly With Colorful New Oyster Perpetual & Day-Date Dials

Rolex Gets Silly Mar 31, 2023

Reaction: Rolex Gets Silly With Colorful New Oyster Perpetual & Day-Date Dials

Rolex is always the talk of Watches & Wonders, but this year the conversation focused on an unlikely watch: an Oyster Perpetual with a “Celebration Dial,” a colorful and playful creation that seems very, well, unlike Rolex? But is it, really? It garnered a lot of attention, was immediately memed, and generated some of the most fiery takes of the show. The Worn & Wound editorial team, as you’d expect, has thoughts, so we weigh in on the new Oyster Perpetual, and a similarly colorful and offbeat Day-Date, below. Zach Kazan No matter how hard brands try to prevent them, leaks of new releases are inevitable. It happened again this year with Rolex, the biggest brand of all. And while we only had hastily shared Google search results to go off of, and no actual specs or even basic information about the watches themselves, the shuttle ride to Palexpo on Day 1 was dominated by talk of gumballs. The so-called “Celebration Dial” Oyster Perpetuals, along with the spiritually related “Jigsaw” Day-Date, are as whimsical as we’ve seen Rolex in recent years. Lefty GMT aside, this isn’t a brand known for its sense of humor. So a dial filled with colorful circles (51 is the official tally) that correspond with the colors of the most recent Oyster Perpetual refresh from about 3 years ago is bound to generate the hottest of takes. What I want to know from the haters is this: who decided Rolex can’t have fun? I guess if your version of Rolex is “luxury tool watches”...

Bell & Ross Adds an Attractive Blue GMT to the Collection

Bell & Ross Adds Mar 30, 2023

Bell & Ross Adds an Attractive Blue GMT to the Collection

Bell & Ross has expanded their offering of GMT equipped watches at this year’s Watches & Wonders with the BR 03-93 GMT Blue. A GMT complication is perhaps the most natural additional feature for a watch that’s so tied to aviation. The iconic square case shape of the BR 03 is modeled after what you might find on an instrument cluster in an aircraft. For this new reference, Bell & Ross is employing a combination of colors that are not frequently seen together, at least within the Bell & Ross catalog, but they complement each other incredibly well. The story here starts with the dial, which is a gorgeous shade of bright blue with a sunray finish. Bell & Ross tells us they’ve designed the dial with pure functionality in mind, thinking through the complementing colors in terms of legibility. Large Arabic numerals at the cardinal positions combined with big lume filled hands immediately orient the wearer of the watch to the local time at a glance. The oversized red arrow on the GMT hand is also lume filled and meant to be similarly immediately identifiable. As is the custom for Bell & Ross with recent releases, lume has been emphasized and applied liberally across the various dial furniture. Everything on the dial is big and well defined, and one can imagine it would be hard to confuse local for GMT time, and vice-versa. The case is classic Bell & Ross, rendered in stainless steel and measuring 42mm across. Rather than a traditional blue and red bezel, Bell & Ross ...

Hands-On: The Salmon-Dialed MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar

MB&F Mar 30, 2023

Hands-On: The Salmon-Dialed MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar

Max Büsser knows how to give the fans what they want.

The Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph is inspired by racing timekeepers of old

Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph Mar 30, 2023

The Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph is inspired by racing timekeepers of old

Chopard's L.U.C chronograph combines elements of vintage stopwatches and racing chronographs in an exhilarating and elegant package.The post The Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph is inspired by racing timekeepers of old appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe takes design risks with the Calatrava 4997/200R

Patek Philippe takes design risks Mar 30, 2023

Patek Philippe takes design risks with the Calatrava 4997/200R

The Patek Philippe 4997/200R Calatrava brings a vibrant purple dial into their ladies’ Calatrava catalogue The dial is made up of over 50 layers of lacquer on an embossed dial The Calibre 240 is visible from the sapphire display caseback, and is beautifully finished Patek Philippe have been taking design risks for decades, but there’s … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe takes design risks with the Calatrava 4997/200R appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cloisonné mastery of the Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications

Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications Mar 30, 2023

Cloisonné mastery of the Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications

The Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications pays tribute to their Geneva home The Grand Feu cloisonné section of the dial depicts a steamship from the Belle Époque fleet that has been cruising Lake Geneva for over a century The calibre R 27 HU is equipped with world time and minute repeater complications Technical mastery is … ContinuedThe post Cloisonné mastery of the Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Windup Watch Fair Heads Back West to San Francisco!

Christopher Ward Fortis Oris Mar 29, 2023

The Windup Watch Fair Heads Back West to San Francisco!

Last year, after a brief hiatus, the Windup Watch Fair returned to San Francisco to a new venue with more brands than ever before. The venue and show were a big hit, so the team here at Worn & Wound has decided to double down on San Francisco this year with twice as much space and twice as many brands. Held at Terra Gallery (511 Harrison Street), the same venue as last year, the Windup Watch Fair will play host to a huge assortment of 60+ brands. Among these participating brands will be our Lead Sponsors, namely: Accutron, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Zodiac. Each of these will be sharing new and exciting watches for the very first time in the metal at Windup San Francisco. Please join us on Friday, April 28th through Sunday, April 30th. You won’t want to miss it! In addition to our amazing Lead Sponsors, we’ll have a combination of the popular brands you already know and love, as well as a slew of new brands and first-time participants. Here’s a full roster of participating brands. For the first time ever-along with panels, giveaways, happy hours, and food trucks-there will be an entire section of the Fair dedicated to accessory and everyday carry items. We’re calling this section ‘EDC Alley’ and it will feature some of our favorite pocket knife, pen, and boot brands, among so much more. Once you need a break from all the watch and EDC goodness, grab a drink and take a break in the Complecto Lounge. We’re honored to support the Complecto community...

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 54

Tudor Introduces Mar 29, 2023

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 54

In 2012, Tudor broke the ground by introducing the Black Bay, a steel dive watch whose attractive design and price point have always offered a value proposition for enthusiasts. Through the years, the format has been updated from its larger 41 mm case down to 39 mm, as seen in the Black Bay 58. Today, the brand has dropped the Black Bay 54 with a new, smaller 37 mm case. While its design is nearly identical to its larger sibling, the reduced size of the new Black Bay makes it more wearable. Initial thoughts The 37 mm size of the new Black Bay 54 really sets it apart – perfect for those who prefer a classic look and slimmer watches. Its sophisticated simplicity makes it appropriate for both genders without sacrificing the utilitarian styling that has made the lineup popular through the years. As is typical for Tudor, the value proposition is outstanding. At CHF3,450 in steel on a rubber strap (and slightly more with its matching bracelet), it is priced competitively against comparable sports watches. The combination of vintage-inspired design, excellent build quality, and affordable price point makes the new Black Bay 54 a winner. Vintage-inspired but in a more compact case While the original Black Bay was 41 mm, the 54 is considerably smaller but wears well on the wrist. It takes inspiration from an earlier diver from Tudor’s history, the Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7922 that was issued primarily to the French and American navies but was later used by civilian tech...

A touch of gold for the ceramic Chanel J12

Chanel J12 Mar 29, 2023

A touch of gold for the ceramic Chanel J12

The Chanel J12 is once more available with an 18K gold bezel and accents The gold details help the unisex watch lean into its feminine aspects It’s still a fully-specced dive watch with 200m of water resistance Since the reintroduction of the Chanel J12 in 2019, there’s been a lot of focus given to the … ContinuedThe post A touch of gold for the ceramic Chanel J12 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Chanel J12 Eclipse Boxed Set has a J12 for every day of the week

Chanel J12 Eclipse Boxed Set Mar 29, 2023

The Chanel J12 Eclipse Boxed Set has a J12 for every day of the week

The Chanel J12 Eclipse Boxed Set pairs together seven J12 watches Arranged from left to right, they show an encroaching shadow moving across the watch The bezel and dial are set with baguette-cut ceramic rings for a diamond effect with less sparkle The Chanel J12 has been an undisputed icon since its release in 1999, … ContinuedThe post The Chanel J12 Eclipse Boxed Set has a J12 for every day of the week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE embraces and dresses-up the atypical complication

Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE embraces Mar 29, 2023

The Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE embraces and dresses-up the atypical complication

The Ulysee Nardin Freak ONE has surpassed its shock-factor roots and embraced beauty, The time is adjusted via the 5N gold bezel, negating the need for a traditional crown. Its train of wheels and flying tourbillon are all integrated into the minutes hand. Mechanical watchmaking has evolved drastically over the last few decades, which is … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE embraces and dresses-up the atypical complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: The Meticulously Engraved Grand Seiko SBGZ009

Grand Seiko Mar 28, 2023

Introducing: The Meticulously Engraved Grand Seiko SBGZ009

A new manual-wind, time-only piece hand engraved by the masters of the Micro Artist Studio.

The smoky, sultry green Santos de Cartier novelties

Cartier novelties Mar 28, 2023

The smoky, sultry green Santos de Cartier novelties

The Santos de Cartier is now available in Smoky Green The new green dials can be purchased in the 40mm Large or 35mm Medium sizes. The blue dial model previously only available in a Large size is now also available in Medium. The trend of releasing as many green dials as possible may have passed … ContinuedThe post The smoky, sultry green Santos de Cartier novelties appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Odysseus Chronograph is the first-ever automatic chronograph from A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Sohne Mar 28, 2023

The new Odysseus Chronograph is the first-ever automatic chronograph from A. Lange & Söhne

Four years after its introduction, the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus is now presented in a chronograph format First-ever automatic chronograph calibre for A. Lange & Söhne – the new L156.1 DATOMATIC® calibre Boutique exclusive limited edition of 100 pcs. I hesitate to use the phrase ‘alternative’ here. Upon its introduction four years ago, the A. Lange … ContinuedThe post The new Odysseus Chronograph is the first-ever automatic chronograph from A. Lange & Söhne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe introduces the Calatrava 5224R with a 24-hour dial

Patek Philippe introduces Mar 28, 2023

Patek Philippe introduces the Calatrava 5224R with a 24-hour dial

The Patek Philippe 5224R is slated to be the ultimate travel Calatrava It pairs a slim micro-rotor calibre with a travel time complication and 24-hour display All the movement functions are operated via the crown via a patented system The travel time has become somewhat of a Patek Philippe signature over the years, with the … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe introduces the Calatrava 5224R with a 24-hour dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Tudor Black Bay GMT with a wintery white dial

Tudor Black Bay GMT Mar 28, 2023

The new Tudor Black Bay GMT with a wintery white dial

The Tudor Black Bay GMT is now available with an opaline white dial. Paired with the Snowflake hand set, it makes for a refreshing look. The blue and burgundy bezel looks more vibrant in contrast. Although last year’s Watches & Wonders held thunderous announcements for Tudor’s GMT fans thanks to the Black Bay Pro and … ContinuedThe post The new Tudor Black Bay GMT with a wintery white dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Tudor Royal collection offers refined variation

Tudor Royal collection offers refined Mar 28, 2023

The new Tudor Royal collection offers refined variation

The new Tudor Royal models are paired with chocolate brown and salmon dials. There are four case sizes spanning from 28mm to 41mm. Each watch is available with or without diamond hour markers. Any time a design risk is taken, people could turn one way or another. The Tudor Royal is undoubtedly their most visually … ContinuedThe post The new Tudor Royal collection offers refined variation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Gold rush: Rolex reintroduces the GMT-Master II in solid yellow gold and two-tone

Rolex reintroduces Mar 27, 2023

Gold rush: Rolex reintroduces the GMT-Master II in solid yellow gold and two-tone

The Rolex GMT-Master II is reintroduced in yellow gold and two-tone for Watches & Wonders 2023. Brand new is a bicolour black and grey Cerachrom bezel. The beloved Jubilee bracelet gets the Midas touch. The Pepsi. The Rootbeer. The Batman. Can I suggest “Goldfinger” as the latest Rolex GMT-Master II variant nickname? Honor Blackman wore … ContinuedThe post Gold rush: Rolex reintroduces the GMT-Master II in solid yellow gold and two-tone appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS Mar 27, 2023

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS honours the Alps further with a Monte Rosa inspired dial. The calibre L.U.C 96.40-L is only 3.3mm thick, with the watch totalling 8mm. It’s also the second of Chopard’s movements to be granted a Geneva Seal, the first being the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon. If you want to see … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

(Hands-On)The Genta IWC Ingenieur Era Returns With New Automatic 40

Rolex Milgauss Mar 27, 2023

(Hands-On)The Genta IWC Ingenieur Era Returns With New Automatic 40

The Ingenieur pivots back to its Gerald Genta design era this year with the introduction of a new collection that references the Ingenieur SL, reference 1832 from 1976. This is a move we (and likely, many of you) have anticipated since asking IWC CEO Chris Grainger about it back in 2021 on the Worn & Wound podcast (listen to that episode right here). The new Ingenieur collection welcomes three steel references that feature unique textured dials in silver, black, and aqua, and a full titanium reference with a gray dial. Each feature the new integrated bracelet design made famous by Genta in the ‘70s that we last saw in 2013 with the Ingenieur reference 3239. The new Inge takes a slightly softer approach and places an emphasis on ergonomics, and during our time with the watch in London last month, found it to be exactly that. This is the new Ingenieur Automatic 40 and yes, it still has a soft-iron inner case. The Ingenieur has a rather interesting history that reaches back to 1955 with the reference 666, where it embraced a classic round shape and simple dial befitting of the era. It was launched around the same time as the Rolex Milgauss, and filled a similar role, making use of a soft-iron inner case to protect the movement from magnetic influence (up to 80,000 Amperes per meter). The name has roots in Old French and Medieval Latin, according to IWC, evolving from “ingeniator” or “one who makes or uses an engine”. The word Inegnieur evokes a similar vibe, and b...

The long-awaited Rolex Yacht-Master in RLX Titanium

Rolex Yacht-Master Mar 27, 2023

The long-awaited Rolex Yacht-Master in RLX Titanium

After much anticipation, Rolex releases the first production Yacht-Master in RLX titanium The 42mm case is totally brushed, save for some wide, polished lug chamfers Powered by the 3235 calibre, the Yacht-Master RLX Titanium has a power reserve of 70 hours First spotted on the wrist of Sir Ben Ainslie, Rolex has finally released the … ContinuedThe post The long-awaited Rolex Yacht-Master in RLX Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rolex Explorer 40 showcases a new 40mm case

Rolex Explorer 40 showcases Mar 27, 2023

The Rolex Explorer 40 showcases a new 40mm case

The discontinuation of the 39mm Rolex Explorer was a surprise, and its 36mm replacement, though a return to original sizing, left many wondering what Rolex had up its sleeves. Naturally, the crown had a plan, and it has now come to light in form of the new Rolex Explorer 40. Its simplicity remains untarnished, offering … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Explorer 40 showcases a new 40mm case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks to the original 37mm case

Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks Mar 27, 2023

The Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks to the original 37mm case

The new Tudor Black Bay 54 takes its inspiration from the 1954 reference 7922. Its 37mm case offers a great gender netural option for accurate vintage vibes. The steel bracelet is fitted with Tudor’s T-fit clasp. For thousands of watch collectors, the introduction of the Black Bay 58 was a phenomenal release that turned even … ContinuedThe post The Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks to the original 37mm case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy sports a Jubilee-style bracelet

Tudor Black Bay Mar 27, 2023

The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy sports a Jubilee-style bracelet

The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy fills the hole of the discontinued red Heritage Black Bay. It features modern Tudor features such as an in-house movement with a 70 hour power reserve. You can choose between their riveted bracelet, a Jubilee-style bracelet, or a rubber strap, all with the T-fit clasp system. Fears have … ContinuedThe post The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy sports a Jubilee-style bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sophisticated bling: The Frederique Constant Highlife Sparkling

Frederique Constant Highlife Sparkling Mar 27, 2023

Sophisticated bling: The Frederique Constant Highlife Sparkling

The Frederique Constant Highlife Sparkling brings a touch of dawn to the night sky dial. Its 1970s style case grounds the use of diamonds, giving it a sporty flavour. It uses a quick-change strap system, to use with the bracelet and the included white rubber strap. For those who crave both the energy of an … ContinuedThe post Sophisticated bling: The Frederique Constant Highlife Sparkling appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.