Results for Co-Axial vs Swiss Lever Escapement

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Worn & Wound

Grand Seiko SBGP015 – $2,350 Dressy Jun 2, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - D.O. Kasdan

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader D.O. Kasdan brings us a collection we appreciate for its straightforward, no fuss approach and willingness to embrace options off the beaten path. Each of these watches are as capable as they are stylish and unique, with plenty of options for customization. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  My collection spans from regular G-Shock to GO, with plenty of oddities from Piaget, Omega, and Seiko, amongst others. While I would probably never get down to just a three watch collection, this is a good exercise in figuring out how to cover all the bases and still feel like you have something interesting to offer. For this group, I wanted to make sure it maximized functionality with some style. Damasko DC82 – $2,300 This is a rugged chronograph that does not require reading glasses to use effectively. Beyond the Damasko technologies and design, it is very wearable and can be brightened up with straps or custom ordering for hand color and bezel configuration. Grand Seiko SBGP015 – $2,350 Dressy but not formal, this HAQ with jump hour hand adjustment is great for travel, business, or even casual wear with sufficient 200M WR. The ceramic bezel might not be for everyone, but it works with the angular case and bracelet to give a glimpse of the many things that Grand Seiko can do in one coherent package. Wolbrook/Douglas Skindiver Automat...

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Worn & Wound

H. Moser s New Streamliner Flyback Jun 2, 2023

H. Moser’s New Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Has Been Unveiled with a Few Small Updates

As an object of pure fascination, there are few watch designs that come close to H. Moser’s Streamliner. I have been low key obsessed with it since the first Streamliner appeared in early, pre-pandemic 2020. That first chronograph was, at first, baffling to me. I found myself drawn to it even though I’m not really much of a chronograph guy, integrated bracelet sports watches aren’t my thing, and, at the time, I didn’t really appreciate Moser, either. At the end of the day, the Streamliner’s subversion of my own expectations of what a luxury integrated bracelet sports watch should be are what makes it successful. If you find the Royal Oak cold and clinical, the Streamliner is warm and organic by comparison. If the Nautilus is the choice of Patagonia-vested finance bros, the Streamliner gets the endorsement of sneakerheads. Even at its most opulent, it’s the kind of watch that makes me feel kind of giddy, as opposed to slack-jawed intimidation, which doesn’t always translate into a successful wearing experience in my opinion. In a landscape of integrated bracelet sports watches that all kind of feel like riffs on each other, the Streamliner still feels like a true original to me.  For those reasons, I’m always interested in new versions of the Streamliner. As a blank canvas, it’s capable of communicating all of the things Moser excels at, depending on how they decide to execute any particular reference. The latest Streamliner is an update to the original c...

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Hodinkee

Rolex Jun 1, 2023

Reference Points: A Comprehensive Collector's Guide To The Rolex Explorer I

Mapping the ascent of Rolex's go-anywhere watch.

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SJX Watches

Sarpaneva May 30, 2023

Sarpaneva Introduces the Lunations Black Ruthenium

Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has revealed the newest iteration of his trademark complication, the Lunations Black Ruthenium. Equipped with his proprietary moon phase movement, the Lunations moon phase is so accurate it will accumulate a mere one-day discrepancy after 14,000 years. Limited to just ten pieces, this is a variant of a model first introduced a dozen years ago, but remains the brand’s most complex wristwatch. Initial thoughts The Lunations has all of the Sarpaneva design elements, including the moon “face”, open-worked dial (which in this case is actually the movement), laser engraved decoration as well as hand finishing, so it resembles many of the brand’s other watches. But the Lunations is actually one of the most complex watches devised by Sarpaneva. The Lunations is unusual in combining both the brand’s recognisable design with an original movement, one developed with the help of Andreas Strehler, whereas most of Sarpaneva’s other watches are powered by simpler, outsourced movements.  Constructed in a novel manner with a two-disc moon phase display that’s so large it’s almost the diameter of the movement, the calibre inside is both interesting and complex. However, a moon phase complication is usually simple – and inexpensive – in most other watches. Consequently, the Lunations feels pricey with its €39,500 price tag, particularly so considering that Sarpaneva’s other moon phase models powered by outsourced movements cost hal...

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Revolution

Patek Philippe History May 29, 2023

The Last Emperor’s Patek Philippe: History in the Making

Step into history and witness the remarkable journey of Puyi’s wristwatch, an artifact that carries the weight of a bygone era. This iconic timepiece, belonging to the legendary emperor, will soon go under the hammer at Phillips auctioneers, and its story is truly captivating. Georgy Permyakov, Puyi’s Russian translator, was entrusted with preserving the memories […]

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Worn & Wound

Halios May 26, 2023

Halios is Back with a New Limited Edition Made in Collaboration with Topper Jewelers

Halios, Jason Lim’s microbrand that has developed a rabid following over the years, only increasing as new releases have slowed, is releasing a new watch today in a collaboration with Topper Jewelers out of Burlingame, CA. It’s a new Universa, but it incorporates dial elements typically found in the Seaforth, the watch that is in many ways the brand’s calling card. In that sense, it’s a bit of a hybrid, combining several elements of Jason’s design language that have endured over the years.  The Universa has a 38mm stainless steel case that is mostly brushed, but has a classic polished chamfer along the lugs. It has a sculpted, almost architectural feel to it, with wide facets and gentle curves. The bezel-less design gives the watch an old-school, no nonsense sports watch vibe, and it certainly wouldn’t be crazy to note that the watch takes plenty of inspiration from classic tool watches.  It’s the dial, though, that makes this Universa special. It’s a crisp white with hands and hour markers that have been accented in black for maximum contrast. The layout is taken directly from the Seaforth, and includes the same thick, applied hour markers that give the dial an increased sense of depth. Hash marks on the minute scale alternate between blue, yellow, and green, representing natural elements found near Topper’s headquarters in Burlingame (the ocean, northern California sunshine, and giant redwood trees).   Speaking to the intensity of Halios’ followin...

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SJX Watches

May 25, 2023

Andreas Strehler Introduces the Strehler Sirna

Accomplished but relatively low key, Andreas Strehler is launching a new brand known simply as Strehler, which aims to reach a wider audience with more accessible prices. Mr. Strehler’s stated aim of the Sirna is to offer collectors a simple daily wearer that embodies the technical mastery he has become known for. The brand’s opening act is the Sirna, named after the town of Sirnach in northeastern Switzerland where the manufacture is based. Strehler marks a departure from Mr. Strehler’s previous work in terms of aesthetics. While his earlier (and pricier) creations emphasised his distinctive papillon, or “butterfly”, movement architecture and resulting cushion-shaped case, the Sirna is more traditional in form. It is a strong debut for the new brand and a sign of good things to come. Initial thoughts I’ve always admired Mr Strehler’s watches from an intellectual standpoint, but his cushion-cased designs have never resonated with me on an aesthetic level. Naturally, I am thrilled to see Mr. Strehler’s work arrive in a more traditionally-styled package. The Sirna appears to exudes quality – unsurprising given Mr Strehler’s reputation for good work. It’s enough of a reputation that other independent watchmakers turn to him for components and movements (more on that below). Even obscure details like the engravings on the case back look to be satisfyingly crisp and precise. And the patterned titanium dial is the star, though deceptively simple in style, i...

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Time+Tide

Rolex Daytonas May 25, 2023

5 sleeper picks from the upcoming Sotheby’s Fine Watches auction starting next week

Watch auctions are typically associated with record-breaking prices and incredible amounts of money spent on coveted collectables. During my visit to Sotheby’s Upper East Side headquarters, I saw plenty of lots primed to go for six, seven, dare I say eight figures – such as the two Paul Newman-owned Rolex Daytonas that the auction house … ContinuedThe post 5 sleeper picks from the upcoming Sotheby’s Fine Watches auction starting next week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Audemars Piguet Names Ilaria Resta CEO May 22, 2023

Business News: Audemars Piguet Names Ilaria Resta CEO

Ending months of speculation, Audemars Piguet (AP) has finally filled the role of chief executive officer after outgoing boss Francois-Henry Bennahmias revealed his intention to depart last year. The Le Brassus watchmaker famous for the Royal Oak just announced that the top job will go to Ilaria Resta, formerly the president at a privately-held fragrances giant headquartered in Geneva. According to the announcement, Ms Resta joins AP in August this year and officially assumes the chief executive role on January 1, 2024. Mr Bennahmias will remain to assist with the transition until the end of 2023. A thirty-year veteran of the brand, the flamboyant Mr Bennahmias quadrupled AP’s annual revenue during his tenure, with its sales last year hitting the CHF2 billion mark. His successor’s résumé, however, suggests the board might be looking for someone who understands branding on a global and mass-market scale. With a long and accomplished career in fast-moving consumer goods, Ms Resta’s background is unusual for the leader of a major luxury watch brand. She was most recently President of Global Perfumery & Beauty President at Firmenich, a Swiss firm that is one of the world’s largest fragrances companies and, like AP, family controlled. For over two decades until 2020, Ms Resta held a range of roles at Procter & Gamble, covering sectors ranging from laundry to hair care. “Her proven record of delivering results through a clear strategic thinking based on deep consumer...

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Time+Tide

May 19, 2023

Three post-sale lessons from Sotheby’s Important Watches Parts I & II

Following on from Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I and Part II on the following day, it’s always interesting to go through and assess not only the value of the watches themselves but any emerging trends and patterns. Whether you’re trying to figure out what the next best investment piece may be, or just keeping up … ContinuedThe post Three post-sale lessons from Sotheby’s Important Watches Parts I & II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Citizen Enters May 18, 2023

Citizen Enters the Affordable Integrated Bracelet Arena with the NJ015 Series “Tsuyosa”

Five years ago, if someone were to ask me for advice on an affordable, reliable, all-purpose watch with some enthusiast/collector credibility, I’d definitely have Seiko on the tip of my tongue, and probably Timex and G-Shock as well. A brand that I might not have been as quick to mention would be Citizen, which is perhaps a bit ironic for me personally, because a Citizen is literally the first watch I can remember picking out for myself, years and years before this would become a hobby, let alone a profession. But something is happening at Citizen that is truly compelling. They’ve always had an expansive catalog, but recently they’ve been able to zero in on the stuff that really makes them special. Affordable, tactical divers are one avenue where they’ve had some success, and I’d argue they currently have a slight edge on Seiko in that department, overall. And with the recent release of the NJ015 “Tsuyosa” collection (the word means “strength” in Japanese) Citizen is making a play at the competitive “sporty, everyday casual” segment of the market with a colorful integrated bracelet option. Coming in at less than $500, these seem destined to appear on “recommended” lists. What we have here are straightforward, time and date automatic watches in stainless steel cases with integrated bracelets. The design is vaguely vintage inspired, but this type of watch is so common right now, it feels completely contemporary. The obvious point of comparison is Ti...

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Time+Tide

May 18, 2023

The LIV GX-AC Signature Orange is plenty bold

If you slavishly follow modern trends, you might believe that current standards dictate that a watch should be between 38-42mm wide, offer some form of vintage design cue and try and remain as symmetrical as possible. Refreshingly, LIV do something far bolder. Founded in 2014 by husband and wife Chaz and Esti Chazanow, the microbrand … ContinuedThe post The LIV GX-AC Signature Orange is plenty bold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Citizen or something similar readily May 17, 2023

Opinion: Why Every Parent Needs a Tool Watch

Last week my son was pretending to be a wolf in the kitchen (as four-year-olds do). Inevitably, he face-planted on the tile floor and suffered a bloody snout. As I scooped up my wounded canine, blood poured down my arm, shoulder to hand.  I wear a dive watch most days, and this day was no exception. After Googling “How to stop a bloody nose,” I rotated the count-up bezel and prepared to pinch both nostrils shut for 10 minutes. The usually crisp bezel action felt… sticky. I looked down to realize bodily fluids had covered my watch, collecting on every textured surface: the depressed markers on the modified bezel, the crown ridges, and between bracelet links.  With only one free arm, I did not dare risk opening the nasal floodgates to remove my watch. After the minute hand safely crossed the stained 10-minute marker, I gave my watch a quick bath in the sink. It thanked me for the brief excitement and continued its primary function of keeping time until the next time it would be called to action, likely in the near future. After all, kids are gross. My watches are accustomed to poorly aimed sneezes and spilled glasses of milk. PSA: never buy a used watch from me. Prior to 2020, I wore dress watches to a shared office. Usually a time-only Citizen or something similar readily available at the local mall. As a bearded guy with mop of unruly hair, a shiny 38mm dress watch was my lazy attempt to look the part. This self-imposed pressure dissipated with the sudden shift to...

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SJX Watches

Vacheron Constantin Audubon” featuring May 17, 2023

Highlights: The Artisanal and Complicated at Phillips’ Hong Kong

After round up the best examples of independent watchmaking on offer at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI, let’s turn to notable complications and artisanal timepieces in the sale that takes place on May 24 and 25.  Amongst the highlights are easy choices like the Patek Philippe ref. 5016P, the most complicated watch made by the Geneva watchmaker at the time of its launch. Others might go under the radar (and perhaps be good buys), like the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Mystérieuse with its transparent time display and floating hands. As for the artisanal, a highlight is undoubtedly the Vacheron Constantin “Audubon” featuring a cloisonné dial done by the famed Anita Porchet, arguably the best enameller in watchmaking.  Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here.  Lot 836: Vacheron Constantin “Birds of America” ref. 43060/000J-8434  by Anita Porchet Enamelling at its highest level is an art form equal to the best of complicated watchmaking. Amongst Vacheron Constantin’s earliest but also best known enamelled watches is the series inspired by drawings from Birds of America by John-James Audubon. The 19th century American naturalist documented most of the continent’s birds in the landmark tome, the pages of which served as inspiration for the series of watches. For the “Birds of America” series, Vacheron Constantin turned to the best enamelers of the day, including Muriel Sechaud and of course Anita Porchet. Going by t...

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Time+Tide

Omega revisits May 16, 2023

Omega revisits the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer with new titanium and steel models with coloured ceramic bezels

Three new configurations for the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer Titanium makes its debut in the collection, new green dial for stainless steel, all use coloured ceramic bezels for the first time Titanium model is US$2.6K more expensive than the original steel, new steel models US$1K more expensive due to new bezel and 18K moonshine gold … ContinuedThe post Omega revisits the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer with new titanium and steel models with coloured ceramic bezels appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

May 15, 2023

The heroes and bargains of Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I auction

Following on from Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I auction, it’s always interesting to go through and assess the accuracy of the lot estimates. Most of the time they cast a pretty wide net, so it’s hard to miss, but bidders seeing that top number will always give them something to reach for. Let’s dive in … ContinuedThe post The heroes and bargains of Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch May 12, 2023

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon”

The Geneva spring auction season kicks off soon and as expected, most of the weekend’s highlights are the usual timepieces from establishment brands and independent watchmakers, including one that is a mix of both, the Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch made by Philippe Dufour. But one of the season’s most intriguing lot is altogether different – the Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon” that’ll go under the hammer at Antiquorum. Both intriguing and quirky, the ref. 1252 “Chameleon” is essentially a sculptural bracelet that happens to have a small, manual-wind movement installed. While such bracelet wristwatches are common for jewellers like Cartier and Bulgari, the “Chameleon” is decidedly unconventional for Patek Philippe. Made in the late 1940s, this example of the “Chameleon” is only the second one known. The first example resides in the Patek Philippe Museum as inventory no. P-107. The “Chameleon” is perhaps more object than timekeeper. It has an estimate of CHF50,000-100,000 – arguably not so much for a sculptural Patek Philippe of which only two are known, or a pricey, oddball ladies’ watch. But it is unquestionably interesting and perhaps one of the most intriguing objects on the block this weekend. The “Chameleon” is lot 450 and has an estimate of CHF50,000-100,000. Its archive extract has been ordered and is pending according to Antiquorum. For more, visit Antiquorum.com.  

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Worn & Wound

Seiko 5 Sports Collection Returns May 11, 2023

The Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sports Collection Returns with a Brand New Dial Color Palette

A dynamic duo is a way to describe a harmonious connection between two people that tend to create positive results when their unique traits are aligned together. Think Kobe and Shaq, Rick and Morty, or Thomas Bangalter and Guy-Manuel de Homem-Christo, aka Daft Punk. This phenomenon can also be found by way of successful collaborations between brands across different industries. Kith and New Balance, as well as The James Brand and Topo Designs come to mind. One ongoing collaboration in particular that happens to intersect our horological universe is none other than the one between Seiko and Rowing Blazers. Since their initial collaborative release in 2021, they’ve consistently found a way to combine the witty design personality of Rowing Blazers and everything we adore about a steel Seiko sports watch. In timely fashion with Summer just around the corner, Seiko and Rowing Blazers have teamed up once again to deliver a new set of dial colors to their Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sports collection. This new release adds a fresh palette of colors to the entire collection. Like the previous release, the Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sports is supported by three vibrant colors – a pastel pink, deep purple and canary yellow. The three dial colors host a set of black hour markers with T-shaped silver accents. From above, the hour markers look one dimensional, but a side profile reveals an angular quality that slopes towards the center of the dial. The remaining reference in this set is...

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Time+Tide

Swatch May 10, 2023

Swatch wraps up their 2023 Art Journey with new Jean-Michel Basquiat triptych

The Swatch x Jean-Michel Basquiat collection marks the final collaboration of the Art Journey project Previous collaborations were with MoMA, Magritte, Louvre Abu Dhabi, and Le Gallerie Degli Uffizi The triptych includes three quartz-driven pieces inspired by Basquiat’s ‘Ishtar’, ‘Untitled’, and ‘Hollywood Africans’ artworks Swatch as a brand, not the conglomerate group, is widely credited … ContinuedThe post Swatch wraps up their 2023 Art Journey with new Jean-Michel Basquiat triptych appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Seiko Introduces May 10, 2023

Seiko Introduces the Astron GPS Solar, Redesigned and Sleeker

Seiko debuted its first solar-powered GPS watch just over a decade ago and has since improved and iterated the model, ranging from an extravagant, 18k pink gold limited edition to the asymmetric Giugiaro Design. But most of the Astron GPS watches to date have resembled gadgets, with cases featuring lots of buttons and dials with numerous indicators. Now Seiko has cleaned up the dial design and streamlined the case to create the Astron GPS Solar, which sports an octagonal titanium case and matching integrated bracelet. Initial thoughts Able to automatically set the time and time zone by syncing to GPS satellites, the Astron has always been an impressive piece of tech. But it has long looked like a piece of tech with its bulk case and fiddly interface. The limited edition SJJ017 The new Astron, however, looks like a wristwatch. With an integrated-bracelet and grid-like patterned dial, the new Astron ticks all the boxes in terms of the current fashionable in watch design. Granted, the design isn’t exactly original, but the sleek style and compact size mean the new Astron is more compelling offering than its predecessors.  And the new models cost only slightly more than prior versions, making them a no-brainer for anyone who appreciates the tech but wants a more sophisticated design. A familiar construction  The redesigned Astron is made up of elements that appear to be drawn from popular luxury-sports watches, most notably the octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet. Even...

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Worn & Wound

Zodiac Introduces May 9, 2023

Zodiac Introduces the Sea-Chron, a Vintage Inspired Chronograph with Roots in the 1960s

Zodiac continues to plumb the depths of their archives with their latest release, the Sea-Chron chronograph. Originating in the 1960s, the Sea-Chron was a natural extension of the Sea Wolf, a platform that Zodiac has returned to in recent years to great success. This sporty diver’s chronograph picks up on a lot of the aesthetic cues of the classic Sea Wolf, but has some key technical upgrades that put it squarely in modern watch territory. It also fills a fairly wide hole in the Zodiac catalog – it’s hard to believe, but up until this week, they didn’t have a chronograph in their collection.  Zodiac envisions the Sea-Chron as a true multipurpose sports watch. Like their dive watches, the Sea-Chron has a full 200 meters of water resistance, and the case has been outfitted with a timing bezel with a twenty minute interval. Inside the timing bezel and at the dial’s perimeter, you’ll find a tachymeter that can be used completely independently of the Sea-Chron’s dive timing features. The handset is the familiar Zodiac fence post design, and squared off apertures with lume underneath for the hours, except at 3, 6 and 9, where you’ll find the sub registers for minute and hour totalizations, and a running seconds indicator.  There are two variants of the Sea-Chron available at launch. One in a clean black and white colorway that would appear to prize legibility above all else. This version has a black base dial and white subdials, and, crucially, a white tachymet...

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WatchAdvice

TAG Heuer May 8, 2023

Hands On With The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 In Ethical Rose Gold & Lucent Steel

If you’re in the market for a good two-tone sports watch, then the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 in Lucent Steel and Ethical 18k Rose Gold may just be the watch you’re looking for! What We Love Wearability and comfortTHAT Iris of the Eagle dial!Sturdy, good looking movement What We Don’t Lack of taper on the braceletNo ability for size adjustmentsClasp not easy to open Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 8.5/10 Chopard is a brand that’s probably not first on people’s list when they think of a steel sports watch. In fact, it may not be even top three. I know it wasn’t for me, and if you’re like me and think about steel sports watches, then your mind probably runs through a range of brands from Rolex, to TAG Heuer, to Omega, Breitling, Tudor, and the like. But maybe, you should think of Chopard? The Alpine Eagle in 18k Ethical Rose Gold and Lucent Steel As the watch community’s lust for steel sports watches continued to rise, Chopard recognised this and introduced the Alpine Eagle in 2019 – a modern re-interpretation of the 1970s St. Moritz, the first timepiece that was created by (now Co-President of Chopard) Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. And it was a good release. The star of the watch was the Iris of the Eagle dial that if you have seen it in person, is mesmerizing. And let me tell you, it is very cool. For this review, I was lucky enough to get my hands on the two tone variant in Chopard’s 18k Ethical Rose G...

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SJX Watches

IWC Ingenieur 40 One May 7, 2023

Up Close: The IWC Ingenieur 40

One of the most talked-about and contentious releases of the year, the IWC Ingenieur 40 is a reinterpretation of the vintage Ingenieur SL designed by Gérald Genta. By sticking closely to the design of the 1976 original – and thus catering the current fad for integrated-bracelet sports watches – IWC is positioning the Ingenieur as a key part of its line-up, despite several unsuccessful attempts to reboot the collection in recent years. Initial thoughts  With past revivals of the Ingenieur diverging further and further from the 1976 model in terms of styling, enthusiasts have been eagerly awaiting the return of the original design. And the recent popularity of integrated bracelets made such a comeback all the more likely. Now the Ingenieur has returned – in undoubtedly the correct guise. Though the design has been well received, there has been criticism of the movement and price. By staying faithful to the original design, the Ingenieur 40 gets it right. The construction shows attention to detail in the essential elements, including the patterned dial and bezel secured by polygonal screws, along with a slim case profile. These elements echo the vintage original, while still making it obvious the Ingenieur 40 is a new design. Despite the visual and tactile appeal, the Ingenieur 40 is burdened with significant drawbacks. The first is the cal. 32111, a movement found in entry-level models like Mark XX, which cost quite a bit less than the Ingenieur 40. Because the cal. ...

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SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch May 5, 2023

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch by Philippe Dufour

Arguably the master of movement decoration, Philippe Dufour is revered for the impeccable finishing of his wristwatches – along with a handful of pocket watches, including the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch that sold in 2021 at Philips for CHF2.33 million including fees. But the first timepieces Mr Dufour made never bore his name on the dial. They were a series of five grande sonnerie pocket watches created for Audemars Piguet (AP) that he began in the late 1970s and completed in 1988. The very first of the five, the Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch no. 1 – by Philippe Dufour for Audemars Piguet – will go under the hammer at Philips’ upcoming Geneva auction taking place on May 13 and 14, 2023. (Video courtesy of Phillips) Initial Thoughts Having slowly gone out of fashion starting in the early 2000s, pocket watches tend to go under the radar when set against comparable wristwatches. In 2021, Philippe Dufour’s own Grande Sonnerie wristwatch sold for more than double his grande sonnerie pocket watch – in the same auction. However, anyone who understands independent watchmaker and Mr Dufour’s work will appreciate the significance of this pocket watch. This not only predates the Philippe Dufour brand, but the series of five watches made for AP was the impetus for him to strike out on his own. Because of what he perceived as deeply disrespectful behaviour by AP executives, Mr Dufour vowed never again to make watches for others after completing the five watches for AP. ...

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SJX Watches

May 5, 2023

Auction Watch: Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer

Online watch auctioneers Loupe This have just listed a Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer in an online-only sale that runs from now till May 11. Barely a handful have emerged – one was sold at Phillips Perpetual in London in 2021 – but this example is the first to go under the hammer. The scarcity is of the Double Impulse Chronometer on the secondary market is simply because there are few of them in circulation. Around 50 have been made to date and with about a dozen being produced each year, the wait for an order placed now stands at about eight years. The exceptional demand for the watch is entirely justified, since the Double Impulse Chronometer is arguably the most significant English wristwatch in production today. Consigned by the original owner, this specimen is quintessential Frodsham. Numbered “010800” and delivered in September 2019, this is one of the first examples made, the 13th in fact, according to Richard Stenning, co-owner of Charles Frodsham. More notably, it is an unusual combination of a stainless steel case and white ceramic dial with double cyphers. According to Mr Stenning, this was the first of only two watches with this configuration made to date. The cyphers are an option but arguably crucial since they reference the firm’s history and add to the vintage-inspired styling of the dial. Historically found on Frodsham pocket watches – often engraved on the movement but sometimes on the dial – such cyphers indicated Royal Warrant...

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Time+Tide

Norqain There are plenty May 3, 2023

Everything you need to know about Norqain

There are plenty of brands who like to talk about adventure, whether it’s marketing a new field watch or boasting about water and resistance. Reading up on Norqain, it’s almost a surprise when you remember that they made watches and not adventure gear like icepicks and tents. So how did Norqain go from nonexistent in … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about Norqain appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Montblanc May 2, 2023

Business News: Davide Cerrato Appointed CEO of Bremont

An English brand best known for its aviator watches, Bremont has just announced Davide Cerrato will take the helm as chief executive officer. An industry veteran with a background in design, Mr Cerrato will also join Bremont’s board. His career include stints at Panerai and Montblanc (and more recently, a brief tenure at HYT), as well as Tudor, where he played a key role in the brand’s stylistic reboot. Founded by brothers Nick and Giles English in 2002, Bremont has been run by the siblings since its founding. The appointment of Mr Cerrato is the latest development in the evolution two decade-old brand, which recently raised money from investors including hedge fund manager Bill Ackman, valuing the firm at over £100 million. And just last year, Bremont inaugurated a 35,000 ft² facility in Henley-on-Thames, an hour’s drive west of London, known as The Wing after its swooping form. Taken together, these developments clearly reflect the brand’s ambitions to be a global name in premium sports watches. A veteran in the cockpit Bremont got its start as a maker of watches aimed at aviators and soon gained a following for its association with various military fighter units. Amongst its best known watches is a wristwatch developed in cooperation with Martin Baker, the leading maker of ejection seats for fighter aircraft. While the brand’s focus on aviation-inspired timepieces has been the foundations of its success, the appointment of Mr Cerrato will likely bring change...

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R Revolution

Revolution

Grand Seiko Apr 28, 2023

In Conversation with Akio Naito: Grand Seiko, The Pursuit of Perfect Watchmaking

Wei catches up with Mr. Akio Naito, President of Seiko Watch Corporation, who will soon celebrate 40 years with the company in 2024. From his humble beginnings at the company straight out of university to leading it from strength to strength as it grows its presence around the world, Mr Naito shares the key milestones […]

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Rolex Yacht-Master Apr 27, 2023

Want to dabble in high-end watch auctions but lack the cash? FutureGrail may have the solution

Let’s face it. For most of us, who don’t work in finance or have somehow failed to win the lottery (so far) or be fathered by a particularly indulgent Sheikh, reading about watch auctions is a form of fantasy window shopping. “Hmm,” you nod to yourself approvingly when reading about the platinum Rolex Yacht-Master that … ContinuedThe post Want to dabble in high-end watch auctions but lack the cash? FutureGrail may have the solution appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Apr 26, 2023

Inside the Collection: Common Threads Through Uncommon Chronographs

I am not a chronograph guy. At least that’s what I keep telling myself. I’ve owned my share of chronographs over the years, but they always seem to be first on the chopping block when something new comes along that I need to clear out space for. They also, in general, don’t appeal to me aesthetically. I tend to like a less cluttered, more serene dial than what you’ll find on a typical chronograph, simply because of the nature of the complication itself. And I certainly don’t belong in the nerdiest segment of chronograph lovers, who have deeply held beliefs about the best chronograph movements ever made, and can rattle off the most minute differences between Speedmaster references at the drop of a hat. I admire the dedication and knowledge of these hardcore chronograph superfans, but I’ve never counted myself among them.  And yet, day to day, the watch I’ve worn the most by far over the last year is a chronograph that flies in the face of everything I tend to think about my own watch preferences. And if you were to ask me, “Hey Zach, out of all of your watches, which one has your favorite dial?” I’d have to respond with another chronograph, that has one of the most intricate and beautifully made dials I’ve had the pleasure of owning. So what’s going on here? How did such a non-chrono guy wind up with this weird chrono subcollection?  My IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Ceratanium has effectively become my daily wearer since picking it up last sum...

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