Hodinkee
This Week In The Shop: Gold (And Gold-Toned) Watches For Every Budget
Exploring the scope of gold watches in color and construction from an ethical gold Chopard to a very 80s G-SHOCK with a gold IP-coated twist.
Results for Co-Axial vs Swiss Lever Escapement
6,670 articles · 84 videos found · page 185 of 226
Hodinkee
Fratello
The Unusual Suspects: Curating A Watch Collection Outside Of The Obvious
At Fratello, we love hypothetical collecting exercises, challenges like “What if I could spend 5K or 10K on a three-watch collection?” for instance. Today, I want to do one that isn’t limited by a specific budget or number of watches. Instead, I would like to simply stray off the beaten path and go for unusual […] Visit The Unusual Suspects: Curating A Watch Collection Outside Of The Obvious to read the full article.
W
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Arken Launches their First Limited Edition for British Watchmakers’ Day
As an avid lover of tool watches, there aren’t many brands that have caught my attention in the last few years quite like Arken. Part of the explosion of small independent watch brands coming out of the UK, Arken has been on my mind since the release of their first watch, the Instrumentum, in 2021. The Instrumentum was followed up by the Alterum last year and now Arken is releasing their first-ever limited edition; a new variant of the Alterum inspired by the Year of the Dragon - a popular source of inspiration over the last few months with everyone from Hublot to JLC getting in on the action. In technical terms, the Alterum Year of the Dragon is the same watch we were introduced to last year, and which is now starting to pop up on people’s wrists as delivery gets underway. The Year of the Dragon comes in the same 200m water-resistant 40mm grade 2 titanium case and is equipped with the same modified Miyota 9015 movement as the standard production variant (all of which you can read more about in Thomas Calara’s post introducing the watch back in June). The dial of the Year of the Dragon is where the differences between this limited edition and the standard model start to show themselves. The Year of the Dragon opts to replace the frosted black and anthracite dials of the standard release with a more exciting deep red, three-dimensional, textured, “blasted dragon scale” motif. I’ve never seen a dial quite like this before, and while the name alone would be enou...
Monochrome
Introducing - A New Moon Rises at Glashütte Original with its Serenade Luna Collection for Women
The Lady Serenade and PanoMatic Luna are Glashütte Original’s two mechanical watch collections for women. While the PanoMatic Luna is essentially a slightly smaller version of the men’s model, the Serenade collection was conceived as a ladies’ watch from the start. Available with time-and-date functions, the Serenade takes on a new complication in the form of a moon phase […]
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Watch Pet Peeves
Welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. Today, you join Nacho, Morgan, and Thomas, who join forces to discuss a number of their watch pet peeves. The guys are feeling particularly grumpy today, so they decided to go on an extensive rant, listing some of the things watch brands do that rub them the […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watch Pet Peeves to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Seiko Upgrades the “62MAS” Prospex Diver
A bestseller available in several variants to date, the modern-day “62MAS” now gets a substantive upgrade with the Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s Watch. The new diver is a direct successor of cal. 6R35-powered models, including the SPB143 and SPB239 of 2021. Released in two regular-production models (SPB451 and SPB453), plus a 100th anniversary special edition (SPB455), the latest Prospex “62MAS” improves on earlier models in three key areas: water resistance is now 300 m, the case is slightly more compact, and the movement is now the cal. 6R55 with a 72-hour power reserve. SPB451 Initial Thoughts As is usually the case with Prospex dive watches, the latest take on the 62MAS is robust and good looking. The new divers are safe bets as they rely on a proven formula – the classic 62MAS design with improved technical features. The SPB455 in particular stands out with its vintage-flavoured gilt accents. That said, the designs stay traditional; these are difficult to distinguish from their predecessors at a distance. A more distinctive design, perhaps with patterned dials that Seiko excels in, would have made these more compelling. SPB453 Importantly, the new trio also stays in the sub-US$1,500 price segment. Few dive watches in this price range have the same historical provenance, since Seiko was a pioneer in dive watch development. The regular production pair are only US$100 pricier than the SPB143 (and the special edition an extra US$200). The premium is easily ju...
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Praesidus DD-45 - How Aged Do You Want Your Dirty Dozen?
Praesidus is one of the go-to names if you are looking for a vintage-inspired military watch. In a relatively short time, the brand has created a reputation for recreating some of the best military watches accompanied by great stories. Now Praesidus is ready to launch another new series of watches. The Praesidus DD-45 is inspired […] Visit Hands-On With The New Praesidus DD-45 - How Aged Do You Want Your Dirty Dozen? to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Rado Watches: A History of Mastering High-Tech Ceramics
Once a relative rarity, ceramics have today been firmly established as go-to materials in the luxury watch industry, alongside traditional metals such as gold, steel, and titanium. But no single watchmaker is more associated with ceramics in the horological realm than Rado, which has not only made the tough, scratchproof, hypoallergenic material a core part of its identity but continues to pioneer new frontiers in what can be done with it. Here’s the story behind Rado’s host of technical innovations, from early “hardmetal” alloys to today’s signature high-tech ceramic, and how two of the brand’s milestones from 1962 have become inextricably linked in the modern era. From DiaStar to Diver's Watch Rado was founded in 1917 by brothers Fritz, Ernst, and Werner Schlup, who converted their parents’ home in Lengnau, in the Swiss canton of Bern, into a watch factory. Originally dubbed Schlup & Co.,the family firm started out making movements, becoming an important supplier during the World War II years. Forty years after its foundation, in 1957, the company launched the Rado watch brand, taking its name from the Esperanto word for “wheel.” The very first timepiece made under the new Rado banner was the Golden Horse (modern tribute model above), which was also one of the first wristwatches marketed with an emphasis on its antimagnetic properties. It was the harbinger of the technical innovation that the company would adopt as part of its stock-in-trade going forwa...
Worn & Wound
Marathon Introduces a New Steel Navigator with an Automatic Movement
If you want immediate Watch Nerd cred with something coming in at around the $1,000 price point or less, there are a handful of options for any budding (or experienced) watch enthusiast. Seiko, of course. G-SHOCK, too. And you can have your pick from many great microbrands, including Lorier, Baltic, and Brew, and too many others to name. If your tastes veer toward the tactical, however, and you happen to be a lume connoisseur, Marathon is (somehow) still under the radar, makes a high quality, well designed watch that just about anyone who has been around the horological block will appreciate. Their newest release, an automatic version of their 41mm Steel Navigator, takes a classic Marathon silhouette and gives it an automatic movement. Marathon has been manufacturing timing instruments of all kinds for various militatires since the 1940s, and the Navigator case, with its familiar asymmetrical shape, will scream “issued military watch” to many collectors. The original Steel Navigator traces its roots to the 1980s, when it was developed in partnership with Kelly Air Force Base for use by pilots. Everything about the design is function first – this is a pure tool watch if there ever was one. It’s got a 12 hour bezel for foolproof tracking of a second time zone, a two-tiered hour track with a 12 and interior 24 hour scale, a 41mm case crafted from stainless steel without a polished surface in sight, and, maybe most notably, an array of tritium tubes on the dial and h...
Monochrome
Portrait - Backed By 25 Years Of Experience, Watchmaker Simon Lefrançois Steps Out On His Own
The world of independent watchmaking has always been a place of passion, inspiration and excitement for us. It has been at the heart of MONOCHROME from the get-go, and even today we find joy in discovering new and intriguing watchmaking adventures from all corners of the world. This time we stop in Morbihan, France, to […]
Fratello
Introducing: The High-Frequency Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon In Steel Or Ceramic
What if you like the looks of the angular Zenith Defy Skyline with its 12-sided bezel, but the running 1/10th-of-a-second indicator on the dial makes you nervous? The Defy Skyline Tourbillon with its 60-second tourbillon at 6 o’clock is the way to go. Yes, it’s a pricey alternative, but before we dismiss this Defy on […] Visit Introducing: The High-Frequency Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon In Steel Or Ceramic to read the full article.
Fratello
Back To Basics: 10 Mistakes To Avoid As A Beginner Watch Collector
In this installment of Back To Basics, I’ll go into typical mistakes that beginner watch collectors often make. These are the common pitfalls that newcomers might find themselves running into. After reading this, you, as a new watch enthusiast, will hopefully be able to steer clear of them! And that might just save you some […] Visit Back To Basics: 10 Mistakes To Avoid As A Beginner Watch Collector to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Is the future of neo-vintage collecting luxury quartz?
D.C. speculates on the craze that'll follow integrated bracelets and Tiffany blue dials.The post Is the future of neo-vintage collecting luxury quartz? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Depth-Testing my Seiko SKX013 Dive Watch: Jumping In at the Deep End
Professional watchmakers have specialist machinery for testing the water resistance of their watches, but Colin Alexander Smith does not. So after servicing his Seiko SKX013 he was on the lookout for an opportunity to take it down deep. And he found the perfect opportunity while summer holiday diving at Aiguablava cove on Spain's Costa Brava. But it didn't go quite to plan and his Seiko came out of the experience a tad better than he did.
Deployant
Barrelhand: the new Project Monolith lands on the Moon with Intuitive Machines IM-1 Mission
Intuitive Machines Lunar Lander landed on the Moon on February 22 2024, making history as the first private US company to land on the Moon. The IM-1 Mission Nova-C Lunar Lander launch took place on February 15, aboard SpaceX's Falcon 9 rocket.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 1 - Featuring Rolex, Zenith, Omega, And More
Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we kick off a series of Top 5 lists with some great pre-owned options. With ever-increasing list prices of new watches, finding a nice pre-owned one could be a great way to go. In the upcoming articles, we want to highlight some remarkable options. Some are familiar, some […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 1 - Featuring Rolex, Zenith, Omega, And More to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Grand Seiko Media Experience: An Enthusiast’s Observations (with Photos!)
The Grand Seiko Media Experience is a whirlwind tour of several Grand Seiko/Seiko facilities across Japan. It’s designed to immerse journalists with a precursory knowledge of the brand in its culture, capabilities, processes, and goods while also giving a flavor of Japan itself. As one of four media invited to go last fall from the US and UK, I was delighted by the opportunity, but my goals were different, I believe, than those of my fellow attendees. You see, I am what you might call a Grand Seiko nerd. I have reviewed several of their watches (such as the Snowflake and White Birch), served on a panel of their GS9 event, espoused my affection for the brand in a video with fellow Worn & Wound colleagues, and, perhaps most importantly, owned several of their timepieces (and still do). My goal during this trip was less to learn about the brand, though any information I could gleam would be valued, rather to further my appreciation for their craft and better understand the people who put my (and your) watches together. The newest Grand Seiko boutique in Ginza, located on Namiki Street Now, I could take you through each stop we made, every meeting we had, and each lecture or interview from an esteemed member of the Grand Seiko and Seiko ranks (including Mr. Hattori) we took, but I feel that article has been written. Instead, I want to tell you about how it affected me from the perspective of the Grand Seiko enthusiast I claim to be. And there will be lots of photos to show t...
Fratello
Hands-On With A Trio Of New World Timers From Farer
I am happy to go on record and say that a world timer simply makes more sense than a GMT. A GMT watch, particularly one with a quick-set 12-hour hand, is a true traveler’s watch. However, I spend countless hours sitting in my home office but communicating and collaborating with colleagues and friends worldwide. After […] Visit Hands-On With A Trio Of New World Timers From Farer to read the full article.
Fratello
Every Watch Brand Sponsorship For The 2024 Formula 1 Season
It’s hard to believe the 2024 Formula 1 season kicks off next month. Coincidentally, we have 24 races to look forward to this year. The preseason build-up has already witnessed surprising changes in team lineups. Affectionately known as “silly season,” these driver swaps do not go into effect until post-season. For now, we can enjoy […] Visit Every Watch Brand Sponsorship For The 2024 Formula 1 Season to read the full article.
Monochrome
Interview - “India Will Surely Be Among The Fastest-Growing Markets,” Says Yasho Saboo, Chairman of Ethos Watches
The watch industry and its market are in constant evolution, with new brands appearing almost daily. The distribution has to face intense volatility due to the duplication of selling channels, the increased pressure of business combinations and the recent rise of certified pre-owned (CPO), which concerns Rolex but also many more brands. A handful of […]
Time+Tide
Is this meteorite dial Omega Constellation a more accessible alternative to the Piaget Polo 79?
Two yellow gold integrated luxury sports watches with interesting dials go head to head.The post Is this meteorite dial Omega Constellation a more accessible alternative to the Piaget Polo 79? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Tales From The Speedy Tuesday Community: How A Small Yorkshire Village Became A Hub For Speedmaster Collectors
For many of us, especially those reading this article, watch collecting is a key part of our lives, our main hobby, and our passion. But for the vast majority of people, a wristwatch is purely a means of telling the time and, in some cases, a status symbol. Some might be familiar with famous models, […] Visit Tales From The Speedy Tuesday Community: How A Small Yorkshire Village Became A Hub For Speedmaster Collectors to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The best beater watches, as picked by our Instagram followers
Come for the G-Shocks and Seikos, but stay for the tourbillon-equipped independents and daily wearer Breguets.The post The best beater watches, as picked by our Instagram followers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Strap Review: RSM’s Luxurious Silk Straps (and a More Rugged Camo Option)
There comes a time when we must find the right shoes to strap our favorite watches onto our wrists. And let’s face it, we live in a time where there are many options to choose from at many price points. Besides the popular NATO-style straps and Tropic-style rubber straps, we all sorta need a good leather one in our arsenal. Or perhaps a soft perlon for these hotter days of the year. At the risk of generalizing a tad too much, I’d say that we more or less see the same straps being offered on the market everyday. And thus shopping for straps becomes a little bit overwhelming and boring just the same. Sometimes, however, a brand creates something new or proposes a fresh take on a popular style. And that’s what we’re going to talk about today. Based in Singapore, RSM has been offering unique collections of well-made straps at competitive prices since 2019. The brand started with a single-pass Herringbone Twill strap and has evolved quite a bit since. While it offers poly-cotton and various types of robust polyester straps, today we’re going to focus on two of RSM’s most recent creations: 2-piece and reversible silk straps as well as a 2-piece and one-piece Camo that has more than a few tricks up its sleeves. What will perhaps become immediately apparent is that RSM goes the extra mile to make their straps look and feel special. Whether it is how it came about finding an artisanal silk maker or new ways to weave polyester fibers together. While most straps we se...
Fratello
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Nekton Edition Pops Up On My Radar Screen
The hype is real. Although it’s a mini hype because the craziness is limited to Fratello HQ, it is still very real. Morgan recently bought one, Nacho can’t stop wearing his, and that led to RJ wearing his more and more often. And if that weren’t enough, all the team members started studying the collection […] Visit The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Nekton Edition Pops Up On My Radar Screen to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces the 103 St Ty Hd Chronograph
Sinn recently revealed its new offerings for the year, which included a retro take on of its signature pilot’s chronograph. The 103 St Ty Hd Chronograph features a matte black dial with a classic three-register layout highlighted by red accents, a design inspired by the 103 C from the 1970s. Significantly, the new 103 is powered by a manual-wind movement, the first time in two decades Sinn is launching a hand-wind chronograph. Initial thoughts This appeal of this release lies in the elegantly vintage design, notably the classic three-register layout and 1970s details like the “roulette” register. The contrast between the black and red elements is especially attractive. Notably, unlike many scaled-up vintage remakes, here the retro styling is presented in almost the same size. The new 103 is 41 mm and almost 15 mm high, which sticks close to the dimensions of the original. Priced at US$2,870, the new 103 is affordable. However, the Sellita movement inside can also be found in retro-inspired chronographs from micro-brands like Farer for a quarter less. Although Sinn has actual aviation-instrument history, while most other brands in this price segment don’t, the price still feels high. Sinn should have done more with the movement, or some other substantive upgrades, in order to justify the price. Nevertheless, true-blue Sinn enthusiasts would value this launch, since Sinn doesn’t do too many vintage remakes. Manual wind and vintage flair The 103 is a pilot’s chr...
Monochrome
Buying Guide - Channeling Your Inner Gordon Gekko With Six Yellow Gold Watches
Trends come and go, and we see the same happening in the watchmaking industry. Retro is still very much hot, so it’s only natural multiple brands dive into their archives and see what can be brought back to life one way or another. Other brands might rather take a prised baby into new directions by […]
Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour le Mérite Reviewed by Tim Mosso
A. Lange & Söhne flagship Richard Lange model is the Tourbillon Pour le Mérite (TPLM). It features fusée-and-chain constant force, a tourbillon regulator, and a power reserve indicator. And the hand finishing is superb!
SJX Watches
The Retro Digital Casiotron Makes a Comeback
Half a century ago, Casio unveiled the Casiotron QW02, the brand’s very first digital watch. Showing the time, month, date, and day of the week – with the calendar being “perpetual” – the Casiotron was a landmark and the ancestor of the G-Shock, one of the bestselling watches of all time. Now it has been revived Casiotron “50th Anniversary”, a limited edition that preserves the looks of the dinky original but enhanced with modern build quality and technology, including a solar-powered movement with smartphone connectivity. It is essentially a cutting-edge electronic watch in vintage dress. Initial thoughts As a Casio fan, I recognise the importance of the Casiotron, even though it is an inexpensive watch. It established the benchmark for digital electronic watches with its clean display and multi-functionality. Casio got it right by resurrecting this iconic retro design with contemporary upgrades, particularly since the 1970s styling harmonises with current preferences for integrated bracelets. The remake wisely retains the original design, right down to the fluted inner flange and applied logo. But the electronics are entirely 21st century, with the movement featuring the same solar-power module found in many modern-day Casio and G-Shock models. The Casiotron remake costs US$500, affordable in itself but pricier than Casio’s own digital offerings and also a fifth more expensive than the Tissot PRX Digital. However, the premium is justified simply because...
Fratello
An Interview With Cuervo Y Sobrinos CEO Massimo Rossi On Growth, Market Positioning, And The Brand’s Latin Roots
Cuervo y Sobrinos is a brand that has made its mark with its unique story and remarkable timepieces. Over the last couple of years, I was lucky enough to go hands-on with several Cuervo y Sobrinos models, and I greatly enjoyed them. The timepieces often have interesting tales behind them, and the brand’s standout design […] Visit An Interview With Cuervo Y Sobrinos CEO Massimo Rossi On Growth, Market Positioning, And The Brand’s Latin Roots to read the full article.