24,231 articles · 185 videos found · page 186 of 814
Quill & Pad
The Naked Watchmaker (TNW), aka Peter Speake-Marin, does a series of deconstructions of a broad selection of modern Breguet watches and movements, starting with the Classique 5177, a relatively simple (for Breguet) three-hand dress watch with date. Here Ian shares a few details that The Naked Watchmaker didn't reveal.
SJX Watches
Conceived by Louis Cartier for Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont – who needed a timepiece he could read while flying – the Santos-Dumont wristwatch has the double distinction of being the first wristwatch designed from the ground up for men, as well as being the first-ever pilot’s wristwatch. Now the 116-year old design has just received its latest update with the unveiling of the hand-wound Santos-Dumont XL. [Update March 23, 2020: Read the review with more photos.] Though the Brazilian pilot got his wristwatch in 1904, it took until 1911 for the design to be sold commercially. For most of the century since, the Santos-Dumont has been part of the Cartier line-up in one way or another, often in gold but occasionally in platinum (one outlier was a special edition in titanium with a skeleton movement). The most recent facelift happened in 2005, which saw the unveiling of a version without a bezel. The new Santos-Dumont XL in all three versions Last year, the latest generation of the Santos-Dumont was unveiled, marking a return to the iconic Santos bezel with screws. For the first time ever, the Santos-Dumont was available in steel as well as two-tone steel and gold, along with the traditional all-gold case. However, the new Santos-Dumont didn’t quite receive unanimous acclaim because it was quartz movement. But now Cartier has finally unveiled what was long expected, the mechanical Santos-Dumont XL. Measuring 46.6 by 33.9 mm and just 7.5 mm in height...
Time+Tide
Fans of Franck Muller will know there is something in the Vanguard collection for everyone. With more than 30 different references in the current lineup, including chronographs, tourbillons and skeletonised movements, the independent watchmaker has ensured that no matter where you want to take your watch, there is a generously curved creation for you. Despite … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Franck Muller Vanguard Classic that can take you from boardroom to beach appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Hublot has just announced closure of its factory for an indeterminate amount of time, as stated in a press release on March 17. The news comes a day after Rolex announced closure of all its manufacturing facilities for two weeks.
SJX Watches
Kiu Tai Yu (1946-2020) was famed for achieving several firsts in watchmaking. He was the first watchmaker in Asia to build a tourbillon wristwatch – he debuted the Kiu Tai Yu tourbillon no. 1 in 1991 – and also the first Asian member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI). Kiu preceded today’s Asian independent watchmakers by some two decades. He joined the AHCI in 1992, making him one of the earliest entrants into the trade body for independent watchmakers that counts George Daniels (1987), Francois-Paul Journe (1988), and Philippe Dufour (1997) as pioneer members. Working out of a tiny shop named Kew & Cie. in Hong Kong’s Central business district, Kiu did one better after building conventional tourbillons – he invented his very own Mystery Tourbillon that had neither a cage nor visible bridge, for which he was granted patents in China, Switzerland, and the United States. Though he was inactive since 2007 when he suffered a stroke, Kiu was prominent internationally in the 1990s, being a regular at Baselworld where he exhibited his exceptionally distinctive watches. His timepieces encapsulated his philosophy of watchmaking – he did it his way. Kiu Tai Yu in his shop. Photo – Vincent Calabrese Inimitable design The aesthetic of his watches was strikingly Chinese and evocative of a particular period in East Asia. It was not so much the elegant, classical style of historical China, but the over-the-top, exuberant look of Hong Kong and ...
Time+Tide
The latest generation of the TAG Heuer Connected Watch has just been released and it represents a major and - practically everyone would agree - welcome departure from the tech and mindset of the previous two generations. Simply because it is now powered by Google Wear OS, which allows the Swiss to do what they do … ContinuedThe post The 2020 TAG Heuer Connected Watch Generation Three is the marriage of Switzerland and Silicon Valley that had to happen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Twenty-nine year-old Stefan Ketelaars started his eponymous brand in 2017, producing watches based on the ETA Unitas 6497 and 6498 but modified in a novel manner while still being affordable, starting at just €3,800, or about US$4,300. His signature complications are the “flying regulator” time display and spherical day and night display, but most notable is the balance wheel repositioned to the front of the watch. The most recent model unveiled by Ketelaars Watches, the 3D Terra in Motion with Reverse Balance. The new watch builds on his earlier creation that features a miniature Earth that functions as a day and night display, but adds on the elevated balance wheel. Like the rest of his watches, the 3D Terra in Motion is powered by a heavily modified Unitas 6497. But unlike the usual modified-Unitas fare in this price range that reshape the bridges for a new look, Mr Ketelaars retains most of the components on the back and instead reworks the front. From the back, the distinctive Unitas bridges retain the same shape, but enhanced with pronounced, sloping bevelling on all the edges. The anglage is wide enough that its top edge almost touches the countersinks for the nearby screws and jewels. A Ketelaars Unitas 6497 with a standard balance wheel on the back; the bridges are finished with radial graining and anglage The Reverse Balance The most significant modification on the new 3D Terra in Motion is the repositioning of the balance wheel. Instead of being on the...
Deployant
Leading up to Corum's 65th Anniversary in 2020, the marque got together with a group of elite journalists in late 2019. Here are a few videos of the event.
Time+Tide
Blancpain, Rolex, Omega, DOXA … these are the watchmakers we normally associate with being the doyens of creating dive watches. However, as Seiko is keen to point out in their latest trilogy release, the Japanese firm has been deeply submerged in the art form of birthing amphibious timepieces for quite some time too – 55 … ContinuedThe post Diving through the decade – Seiko’s latest dive watches pay tribute to three classics appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s the Labour Day long weekend here in Victoria, which means that while the rest of the country is experiencing their weekly dose of Mondayitis, us southerners get one more day in the sun. And, in the interest of entertaining you all, I did the right honourable thing and went out in search of what … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR: Labour Day edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Early American historian and Harvard professor Laurel Thatcher Ulrich titled her 2008 book 'Well-Behaved Women Seldom Make History.' Ulrich would probably be very interested to know about three famous Swiss and French brands whose very first wristwatches were made for – and in a way by – women. Their watches have made history as some of the first examples of wristwatches in history, too.
Quill & Pad
For International Women's Day, I'd like to introduce you to Rebecca Struthers, the most academic and studied watchmaker in horological history. And she has the singular honor of achieving the very first doctorate in horology. This is a very modern watchmaker with a rather old-fashioned way of doing things.
Time+Tide
Bond postponed! The latest film in the James Bond franchise has been postponed, making it the latest victim of coronavirus cancellations.The post Studios behind Bond decide this is no time to die, and postpone release until November appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“To boldly go where no man has gone before …” For most people, that’s just a hackneyed line from Star Trek. For Victor Vescovo, it’s become a personal mission. Put simply, the American private equity investor is hell-bent on pushing his limits. He’s the first man to have reached the deepest points of four of the … ContinuedThe post Why I rely on mechanical watches in the most extreme environments known to man: Victor Vescovo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The team have physically and emotionally recovered from the first round of Battle Royale, which saw a war of words fit for a Grecian epic tale. This week, the team are back in the cage to make their case for their favourite piece from the Hublot Big Bang collection, a family of watches that has … ContinuedThe post Battle Royale: The T+T Team debate which is the best Hublot Big Bang appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Time+Tide Watches is very proud to be the first official media partner of the Horological Society of New York in history. Over this weekend, the HSNY ran their first watchmaking courses in Australia, and Roman S, a longtime reader and subject of several T+T stories (he has spectacular and unusual taste in watches), put … ContinuedThe post Completing the HSNY Watchmaking 101-103 course, the “closest thing to giving something life” a man can get appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The news broke like a hurricane on the morning of February 27, 2020: Watches & Wonders (formerly SIHH) has been canceled for 2020. In the words of Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe, “The future of the fairs is already in the balance – to cancel them is really bad news for them, and for Baselworld in particular." Read on for more of his opinion.
Time+Tide
It’s a new segment. It’s called Battle Royale. Someone nominates a collection, and we fight to the death for our favourite from said collection until there is one opinion standing. Well, not really. That would be bloody, time-consuming, fairly hard to adjudicate and likely to upset HR. So, why don’t we just make our case … ContinuedThe post Battle Royale: The T+T Team debate which is the best modern-day Rolex Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The duo will discuss resonance in horology, as well as its discovery, development and modern interpretations.
Time+Tide
While the Coronavirus outbreak certainly offers a number of reasons for the watch industry at large to be concerned, its effects haven’t been severely felt yet. According to recent data from the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), the first month of 2020 has seen strong watch sales, with a 9.4 per cent increase in … ContinuedThe post BUSINESS NEWS: Swiss watch exports unaffected by Coronavirus outbreak yet, according to FHH appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Given Panerai’s origins in Florence, it should come as no surprise that the Italian watchmaker created a horological tribute to the insatiably curious father of modern science Galileo Galilei, who was once a resident of the Renaissance city. The Jupiterium is a one-of-a-kind geocentric planetarium with perpetual calendar.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Franck Muller are known for their incredibly complex movements, wonderfully curved case designs, and brightly coloured dials. But did you know that each Franck Muller dial is hand-painted? That’s right, there is a dedicated dial painter with a very steady hand, who is responsible for adding that characteristic splash of colour to the … ContinuedThe post Why it’s so challenging to paint a Franck Muller dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Born in China but having worked in Hong Kong for decades, Kiu Tai Yu was long reputed to have been the first watchmaker to produce a tourbillon wristwatch in Asia, having premiered his own in 1990. Before that, only watchmakers in the West had ever produced a tourbillon, a device that was then still regarded as the pinnacle of artisanal watchmaking. A year after unveiling his tourbillon, Kiu became the first Asian member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), the association of independent watchmakers that had been established by Svend Andersen and Vincent Calabrese just a few years before. The news of Kiu’s death was first announced by Mr Calabrese on Facebook. Kiu Tai Yu in his shop. Photo – Vincent Calabrese But it was in 1993 that Kiu debuted his most memorable invention, the Mystery Tourbillon. Equipped with an oscillating balance wheel making one revolution a minute, but seemingly with neither a cage nor bridge. The secret lay in a clear sapphire plate that functioned as the upper bridge, while the cage of the tourbillon was reduced to a fish-shaped platform underneath the balance wheel, a construction that has since been adopted in various forms by brands like Montblanc and Zenith. Not content with a mere Mystery Tourbillon, Kiu subsequently installed the invention in a rectangular form movement, and later even added a jumping hour time display. It’s worth pointing out that every one of Kiu’s tourbillon wristwatches was unique, and ...
Revolution
TAG Heuer dedicates its 160th anniversary to the Carrera, a watch birthed from the mind of the one and only Jack Heuer.
Time+Tide
Buying a watch for anyone other than yourself is a difficult thing to do, for exactly the same reasons it is so enjoyable to wear a watch at all – it is a deeply personal decision. This challenge is amplified when you’re faced with the 14th of February, and are standing at the counter of … ContinuedThe post HOW TO: Buy a Valentine’s Day watch in 90 secs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s very easy to get caught up in the aesthetics of a watch and subsequently make a judgement call based purely on how it looks … we’ve all done it before. And that’s not to say that looks aren’t important - they are crucial. But equally, if not more important than the way a mechanical watch … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Giving birth to the Nicholas Hacko NH2 Timascus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Valentine’s Day is a tricky one, because there can sometimes be tremendous pressure to pick the love of your life the perfect gift. You know, the one that says I understand you and will love you regardless until the end of days. But if you aren’t sure you can measure up against that specific level … ContinuedThe post How to factor romance into your choice of Valentine’s Day watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Life moves pretty fast, but before it can get away from us, and the stunning generosity shown towards Australia is forgotten – when one crisis is replaced by the inevitable next one, which is already sadly happening – we want to pause and celebrate the moment. With a party. Buy tickets here. Because just one … ContinuedThe post Watch & Act! World Watch Auction Wrap Party to be held in Melbourne, limited tickets and a T-shirt now available here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hollywood’s night of nights, the Oscars, was just yesterday, and while most of the noise around this year’s event was Brad Pitt finally scoring his first ever gong for his supporting role in Quentin Tarantino’s Once Upon A Time In Hollywood (and shedding a tear… oh, Brad!) for us watch tragics it was a great chance to … ContinuedThe post Four watches worn at the 2020 Oscars that point to a new dress watch direction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
I don’t know about you, Australian watch lovers, but I’ve always looked lustfully, enviously and with more than just a faint sense of sadness at all the things the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) get up to over there. Somewhere. Beyond the sea. Not only in America, mind you. Wherever they go with their … ContinuedThe post Daft Punk is not playing at our house. It’s better. HSNY is at our office to party. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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