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IWC: Top 3 Favourites from Watches and Wonders 2021
We take a look at the latest offerings from IWC, specifically the Big Pilot's collection, straight from Watches and Wonders 2021.
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We take a look at the latest offerings from IWC, specifically the Big Pilot's collection, straight from Watches and Wonders 2021.
Time+Tide
There was a curious response to our Instagram post about one particular model in the new Aquaracer Collection. It’s the Limited Edition of 844 pieces based on a Heuer model, reference 844 from 1978. A couple of days ago, we posted it side by side with the model that inspired it. Now, for me, this … ContinuedThe post The top 5 TAG Heuer watches of 2021, with a focus on the redesigned and more refined Aquaracer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
While it was the UR-103 that first brought Urwerk attention from serious watch aficionados, it was the Harry Winston Opus V that really launched the boutique independent brand to the world. Ian Skellern takes a trip down memory lane with a deep dive into the history of Urwerk, the story of the Opus V, and a review of the UR-103.03.
Time+Tide
The new, all-steel Tudor Black Bay Chronograph seems to me like the sweet middle ground between two iconic watches. I have a strained relationship with the Rolex Daytona – not that I can get one at retail – and feel it’s a bit too loud and well, Rolexy, even if I admire the quality. The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Tudor’s Black Bay Chonograph hits the sweet spot between the Speedmaster and Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Transparency fascinates Elizabeth Doerr, who believes there’s no better way to reveal the inner workings of something and build an intimate relationship to it than to remove the covers. Here she shares four fascinating sapphire crystal-encased watches from Watches & Wonders 2021. Let there be light!
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SJX Watches
After introducing the amusingly quirky Endeavour Centre Seconds X Seconde/Seconde/ last week, H. Moser and Cie. continues with its minimalist approach to design in a more serious-minded manner with the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye. Available in two variants each with equally stunning natural stone dials – blue Falcon’s Eye and reddish-brown Ox’s Eye – the new tourbillon features rich colours and textures that are a departure from Moser’s conventional aesthetic. Both dials are variants of Tiger’s Eye, the quartz mineral best known as golden brown but also found in other colours. Being a natural material with a prominent grain, each dial, and consequently each watch, is technically unique. The Ox’s Eye variant, with a red dial and red gold case. Initial thoughts The new tourbillon is based on an existing reference, which is already a mesmerising watch. However, for those seeking something different from the usual fume dials that’s still quintessentially Moser, the Tiger’s Eye certainly fits the bill. Mineral stone dials were the in-thing in the 1970s and 1980s – often found in with ultra-thin watches on mesh bracelets – and seem to be enjoying a resurgence today. But few have implemented semiprecious stones as beautifully as Moser has here, with its signature minimalist look providing the perfect canvas for the unique natural material. I find both variants equally attractive. The Falcon’s Eye is more contemporary in its blue and white g...
Revolution
For 2021, Panerai powers ahead with an update on its iconic Bronzo and the launch of its Luminor Marina eSteel watches made using recycled steel
Revolution
Bulgari captivates once again with two new versions of its Octo Finissimo line: an ultra thin double retrograde perpetual calendar and the beautiful Tadao Ando limited edition, this time in blue.
SJX Watches
Just in time for the 50th anniversary of the Explorer II, Rolex is revamping both Explorer models, with the larger Explorer II getting a modest facelift and a new movement. But the Explorer gets a more wide-ranging makeover. The time-only watch retains its utilitarian good looks, keeping its distinctive dial with numerals at the quarters and an arrow at 12 o’clock. But the Explorer is now 36 mm, just as it was back in 1953 and down from the 39 mm of the outgoing model. More notably, the new Explorer will be available in Rolesor – two-tone steel and gold – for the very first time. Both versions of the new Explorer – the ref. 124270 in steel and ref. 124273 in Rolesor – are powered by the cal. 3230, a latest-generation, time-only movement. Initial thoughts Following the mantra of “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, Rolex sticks to incremental improvements, slowly but substantially improving its watches over time. The Explorer was last given a gentle facelift in 2016, and it was truly gentle: the hands were lengthened to better match the 39 mm case, while the quarter-hour markers were filled with luminous paint. The Explorer The new Explorer is a product of this philosophy, delivering more in a more compact package. Though the case is 36 mm, the movement boast all of the brand’s latest innovations, while the dial also features a reformulated Chromalight luminous paint that glows for longer in the dark. At the same time, it is interesting that Rolex sh...
Quill & Pad
As the digital spectacle of Watches & Wonders 2021 unfolds, we are starting to see the new trends emerging within the pandemic-saddled world of watches. Some are surprising, others not so. The tourbillon retains its the top spot in the horological food chain and has become something around which all other trends come and go. Here, Martin Green highlights 5 new tourbillons from Watches & Wonders 2021 that caught his eye.
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Revolution
From new riffs on Cartier favorites and well-priced releases to elegant, artful designs that the maison is renowned for, Cartier shows the way ahead for 2021.
Revolution
IWC has introduced eye-catching variations of the Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar, two new colorways for the Pilot Chronograph, and a Top Gun Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar special edition.
Time+Tide
There was a major Rolex announcement hidden in plain sight today. It was not mentioned during Rolex’s Watches & Wonders presentation, but our team of sleuth detectives realised that on Rolex.com the model configurator tool will allow buyers to put the Rolex GMT Master II Pepsi & Batman on an Oyster bracelet once again. On … ContinuedThe post The sleeper Rolex story is that the Batman and Pepsi are back on Oyster and Sky-Dweller is available on Jubilee appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
“I take a ridiculous pleasure in what I eat and drink,” James Bond says to Vesper Lynd in Ian Fleming’s first 007 novel, 'Casino Royale.' And so starts the adventures, not solely libationary and culinary, of one of the great fictional characters in the world. Rarely has anyone, fictional or not, influenced the eating and drinking habits of humanity to the extent managed by MI6’s finest. Ken Gargett takes a look at a few of Bond's favorite tipples, and there were quite a few.
SJX Watches
Breitling’s opening salvo for the year is a trio of chronographs at Watches & Wonders 2021. The first is the Premier Heritage Chronograph, a straightforward, two-register chronograph, and another is the Premier Heritage Datora, an old-school combination of a chronograph with triple calendar. (The flagship model is the Premier Heritage Duograph split-seconds chronograph, which we cover in another story.) The new Premier Heritage collection is modelled on its namesake line from the 1940s, continuing the brand’s recent efforts of revisiting its past catalogue and re-introducing notable references, but with a couple of modern twists, like the mint-green dial for the Premier chronograph. The Premier Heritage Chronograph in steel Initial thoughts I’m a big fan of the new releases. While the Premier Heritage Chronograph may not be the most innovative, it’s an improvement over the previous generation Premier chronograph. For one, the case size has been reduced to 40 mm from 42 mm, giving the new watch proportions more akin to its vintage inspiration. The dial, now sans date window, is cleaner too. And its manual-winding movement should please traditionalists, who can also admire the movement through a sapphire case back without a rotor to obscure the view. That being said, the mint-green dial will likely divide opinions. It’s a bold look, but I can’t help but wonder if keeping to a safer colour would have been the wiser choice given the retro design. The Datora in ...
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SJX Watches
Having become synonymous with stunningly minimalist fume dials and a peculiar sense of humour, H. Moser & Cie. now combines both in the new Endeavour Centre Seconds X Seconde/Seconde/. A limited-edition collaboration with Parisian artist Romaric Andre, who specialises in modifying watches as Seconde/Seconde/, the new watch reimagines the brand’s signature time-only watch by replacing the traditional hour hand with a pixellated eraser – a tongue-in-cheek reference to Moser’s “concept” dials that forgo the brand’s logo. Initial thoughts When I first saw the press release for the new watch, I did a double take – was it an April Fool’s gag? The watch is funny and out there, and something only Moser could pull off successfully. Being family-owned – with young, open-minded leaders – Moser can be adventurous than its peers. The Seconde/Seconde/ collaboration is Moser doing what it does well. In fact, Moser’s strength is obvious despite the “erased” logo – the watch is instantly recognisable as a Moser. I’ve always liked Moser’s whimsical offerings, such as the Apple Watch-esque Swiss Alps Final Upgrade, and now the Endeavour Centre Seconds X Seconde/Seconde/. These watches have an undeniable fun factor rarely seen in haute horlogerie, which endows the watch with a playful charm. It’s an atypical watch that is typical of the brand. At US$21,900, it’s priced identically to the standard Endeavour Centre Seconds in gold; this, however, has a ...
Quill & Pad
Bugatti Founder Ettore Bugatti was a fanatic for details with the mind of a sculptor. His visions on four wheels still grace the most elite concours d’elegance around the world. And his personal Mido watch on a bespoke gold bracelet is set to be auctioned by Stanislas Machoïr on Saturday April 17, 2021. Martin Green shares a few more details about this priceless artifact here.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: For a tiny bit of context… this was part of our NOT ON MY WATCH series about the things we don’t like on a watch. It’s pretty self-explanatory as a column, but the reason we’re indulging our gripes on Time+Tide is that this is a safe place to do so. In the wider … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Sorry, but date windows on dress watches are ugly and pointless appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s fair to say that most people have probably put on a couple of COVID kilos during the rolling lockdowns we’ve all gone through over the last 12 months. I know I have. But now that things are slowly returning to a semblance of normality and confidence is growing that our future plans won’t be … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected collection for 2021 will make you leaner, fitter and better at golf appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
You’ve probably heard of NFTs (Non-Fungible Tokens) over the last month or so and for good reason. NFTs are exploding in popularity, seemingly out of nowhere. If you haven’t come across NFTs, or haven’t yet tried to wrap your head around the initially impenetrable world of cryptocurrency and blockchain as they collide with collectible markets, … ContinuedThe post WTF is a “luxury watch NFT” and why is Jean-Claude Biver selling one of his watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Quill & Pad
The new Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 vibes in a decidedly cool color scheme dominated by proprietary Lime Gold, while the 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins Limited Edition 100 comes in a bronze case oozing with the warm look and feel of a gold-colored material of bygone days. Both look great, and Sabine Zwettler is still not sure which version she finds more appealing.
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko has been around for over 60 years, but within the last decade the brand is slowly (yet exponentially) growing its presence throughout the watch community and the world. The brand is known by enthusiasts for their high-value craftsmanship, offering more black polished components than most Swiss brands – and at a fraction of … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko Snowflake versus White Birch: the battle between the classic and contender appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The new Rolex Submariner Ref. 126619LB in white gold becomes the first Submariner to receive an updated movement and several minor sizing changes.
SJX Watches
A Swedish watchmaker founded by knife maker Johan Gustafsson and watchmaker Patrik Sjögren, Gustafsson & Sjögren (GoS) is best known for incorporating pattern-welded steel, better known as Damascus steel, in its watches. But GoS also frequently works with fellow watchmakers and artisans, à la MB&F; but at a more affordable level. Its latest watch is a five-way collaboration that combines traditional guilloche, generous Super-Luminova, and hand-made glass: the Norrsken, Swedish for northern lights, the seasonal light display seen over the North Pole. Initial thoughts The Norrsken is a departure from mainstream watchmaking, but even stands out against the increasingly crowded independent watchmaking scene. It is made up of familiar elements, like the guilloche dial and Black Badger “lume”, but of high quality and combined in an interesting, novel manner. Produced by a well-known guilloche specialist, the dial is artisanal but excellent. Similarly, the case also looks to be just as well-executed, with the bezel available in either polished or Damascus steel; though the latter makes the most sense given GoS’ speciality. And the movement comes from Schwarz Etienne (a brand that has enjoyed greater success with its movements in watches other than its own), but equipped with a micro-rotor crafted from Damascus steel. The green Damascus steel dial, seen here in a prototype And the Norrsken lives up to its name, managing to evoke northern lights, or aurora borealis, in...
Time+Tide
Around Christmas time when I dug into the archives of Orient Watch, the lesser known sister company in the Seiko family, our story resounded with our readers in a big way. Personally, since my early days of vintage obsession, through to a brief flirtation with a Mako diver, I have nurtured a secret love for … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The toughest new tools from Orient Watch offer in-house credibility and superb value appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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