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Results for The 2017-2022 Vintage Market Boom

42,843 articles · 274 videos found · page 189 of 1438

Reference Points: The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Wristwatch Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Wristwatch You could Jul 23, 2026

Reference Points: The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Wristwatch

You could make the argument that, among all brands, models, and complications, the Patek Philippe split-seconds wristwatch is one of the most overlooked, underappreciated, and least understood in any catalog. "That's because no one ever sees them," said Ben, when I made that very argument in the office recently. True. It's hard to call a watch underappreciated when the entry point for buying one is in the low six figures. But let me explain. The Patek Philippe ref. 5373. Think about this: the first chronograph wristwatch Patek ever made was a split-seconds. The first. Oh, and it was the first made by any brand. And while people are clamoring for perpetual calendar references like the 2497, 3448, and 3940, Patek has made at least 44 different perpetual calendar wristwatch models over the years (not counting different case materials, gems, or the 3971). How many serially-produced split-seconds references? Well, about 12 or 13, depending on how you count them.  It wasn't until recently that the reference 5004—the first modern serially produced perpetual calendar split-second watch from Patek—began to receive its due at auction, and it finally broke a 13-year-old record for the reference. A 1436, the first serially produced rattrapante, can still be had for less than an F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu. That, frankly, is ridiculous. They're rare birds, and it's all the more impressive that we have nine of them on the table today, all from the same owner. The Patek Philippe r...

Hands-on - The Ressence Type 11 with Proprietary Movement, a Game-Changing Step for the Brand Monochrome
Ressence Type 11 Jul 23, 2026

Hands-on - The Ressence Type 11 with Proprietary Movement, a Game-Changing Step for the Brand

Founded in 2010 by Belgian industrial designer Benoît Mintiens, Ressence questioned, from the start, something fundamental: how we read time. Its patented Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS), with its constantly rotating discs replacing conventional hands, has become one of the most recognisable displays in modern independent horology. Until recently, however, Ressence relied on a seriously […]

A Watch Worthy of a Dentist Visit: the Christopher Ward Twelve 36 (Ti) Pick ‘n’ Mix Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Twelve 36 Ti Pick Jul 23, 2026

A Watch Worthy of a Dentist Visit: the Christopher Ward Twelve 36 (Ti) Pick ‘n’ Mix Limited Edition

One thing you can’t credibly accuse Christopher Ward of is being afraid of color. Hot on the heels of their Twelve Xander, a colorful and abstract limited edition collaboration with the Dial Artist that sold out in a single day, the UK based brand is back with the Twelve 36 (Ti) Pick ‘n’ Mix Limited Edition, a series of small Twelves that draw on a nostalgic love of sugary, colorful candy, the kind that you used to be able to buy in bulk by the pound at movie theaters to escape a hot summer day (sorry, but that’s a core memory for me).  These new 36mm editions of the Twelve are available in a total of six colorways, and their defining feature is a dial texture that the brand says replicates the sugar coating on the types of candy that we’re now, years and years later, told is essentially poison and that we should stay away from. The texture looks great in these Christopher Ward supplied images, but I’ll be honest: I’m not sure I immediately think of candy when viewing them, although I’m happy to make the connection. It begs the question, though, if every similar texture we’ve seen over these last few years is actually a candy dial? Something to think about.  OK, the dial colors. The collection consists of Sour Apple (green), Kola Krystals (brown), Fizzy Orange (orange), Cherry Pop (red), Blue Sherbet (blue), and Berry Burst (purple). In terms of candy alone, I feel the strongest pull toward Sour Apple (really, anything sour is immediately at the top of ...

Hands-On: The Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357 Hodinkee
Daniel Roth prior Jul 23, 2026

Hands-On: The Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357

If there was a way to celebrate the 225th anniversary of Breguet patenting the tourbillon, re-launching a version of the brand's iconic ref. 3350 was the obvious crowd-pleasing option. There was always something charming about that original tourbillon from the 1980s, but there were some downsides too. The new ref. 7357 is Breguet's best effort to solve those downsides, modernize, and give buyers what they say they've wanted for a long time. At a true-to-vintage 35mm diameter by 9.2mm thick (43mm lug-to-lug), with 30m of water resistance, it's the same but different. In a lot of great ways. For those not in the vintage or neo-vintage space, Breguet created an all-time great watch when Daniel Roth (prior to his own brand) worked for Breguet and modified a Nouvelle Lemania ébauche into a compact and impressive tourbillon wristwatch. You can see an original platinum ref. 3357 example below (the quick successor to the 3550). The tourbillon bridge design is different between these generations (both front and rear).  The guilloché pattern, finishing, and even the movement-side treatment are different, with a very neo-vintage hand engraving on the earlier example. That watch would forge the future of the Breguet brand and, after Breguet's then-owner, Chaumet, went bankrupt, push Roth to found his own brand, where the tourbillon became a focal point. So let's look at those changes a bit more closely. First things first, the new 7357 is, by no means, a budget option. Coming in at...

Introducing - The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Minute Repeater Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Cosmic Rain Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Minute Jul 23, 2026

Introducing - The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Minute Repeater Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Cosmic Rain

H. Moser & Cie. released its first minute repeater coupled with a tourbillon in 2019, exposing both complications on the dial. After several iterations, Moser unveiled an impressive, skeletonised take on the double-complication combo earlier this year. Since skeletonisation is often considered a complication in its own right, the triple-complication Endeavour Minute Repeater Cylindrical Tourbillon […]

Breitling Goes Back to Its Racing Roots with Three New Top Time Models Celebrating the Iconic Aston Martin DB5 Worn & Wound
Breitling Goes Back Jul 22, 2026

Breitling Goes Back to Its Racing Roots with Three New Top Time Models Celebrating the Iconic Aston Martin DB5

Breitling is no stranger to a racing inspired watch. Its history with the sport traces back to the debut of its Top Time collection back in 1964. Over the years the brand has most notably worked with Bentley Motors to create automotive-inspired wristwatches and dashboard-style clocks. In addition, we’ve seen Breitling commemorate several iconic models through its Top Time Classic Cars line, like the Ford Mustang, Chevrolet Corvette, and Shelby Cobra. Earlier this year, Breitling made a pivot, announcing it was teaming up with Aston Martin and the Aston Martin Aramco Formula One Team as the official watch partner. The duo’s first timepiece was the limited-edition Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 with a titanium case, carbon-fiber dial, and Aston Martin racing green accents. Now, we get another edition as Breitling gets back to its original racing roots with three new Top Time models that pay tribute to the Aston Martin DB5. The DB5 hailed from the same era as the original Top Time and was first introduced by Aston Martin in 1963. The model became one of the most iconic cars to grace the silver screen, namely films in the James Bond franchise, and cemented the luxury carmaker’s place in both automotive and pop culture history. Today, the two brands bring this spirit of the 60s into the modern era with the new Top Time B01 Chronograph 41 Tribute to Aston Martin DB5 in a trio of limited editions. The details of the new designs marry the codes of both makers with both tactile...

The Ruhla UFO: A Memento of Mod and The Cold War Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Disco Volante 5093 took Jul 22, 2026

The Ruhla UFO: A Memento of Mod and The Cold War

The Gebhard Duve-designed Audemars Piguet Disco Volante 5093 took the horological world by storm in the mid-1950s, and there’s no denying that it remains an exemplar of well-executed watch design today. With the combination of the ongoing Space Race and Mid-century futuristic design movement came an influx of wildly shaped and uniquely proportioned wristwatches throughout the middle portion of the 20th century. One of the most popular designs was the UFO, with brands like Omega, Timex, Zenith, Gruen, and Ruhla employing this case architecture in their 1950s, 60s, and even 70s catalogs. While I’ve had the chance to own a Timex UFO model and handle an Omega Dynamic, it’s the Ruhla you see pictured above that really caught my eye. Why? Let’s dig in. Brief History of Ruhla and The UFO Model Ruhla’s watch production, initially named “Gebrüder Thiel GmbH,” began in 1892 with its “Fearless” pocket watch, becoming the first mass-produced timepiece put to market. Fast forward decades later to 1952, and the company is renamed “Uhren und Maschinenfabrik Ruhla,” or Ruhla for short, and continues production of watches and movements for both the domestic East German and international markets. Ruhla quickly found great success throughout this era, with their plant becoming one of, if not the, world’s largest watchmaking factory. By 1963, the Ruhla logo seen on my UFO example was applied to all the company’s domestic models and was used until the brand’s closu...

Introducing - New Green and Blue Dials for the Hamilton Khaki Field Power Reserve 40mm Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Field Power Reserve Jul 22, 2026

Introducing - New Green and Blue Dials for the Hamilton Khaki Field Power Reserve 40mm

Hamilton, once one of the largest American watchmakers, has a long tradition of accessible, robust field watches and military-inspired timepieces, a style that’s been crucial for the brand with its Khaki Field Collection. While most of the models are modelled after the mid-20th-century Hamilton Hacked watches, some editions took the brief at face value, while some, […]

We Had It So Good: The IWC Mark XV And The Rolex Explorer Ref. 114270 Fratello
Rolex Explorer Ref 114270 Put Jul 22, 2026

We Had It So Good: The IWC Mark XV And The Rolex Explorer Ref. 114270

Put an IWC Mark XV next to a Rolex Explorer ref. 114270 on a table, and you might wonder why anyone would bother comparing them. One is a Schaffhausen pilot’s watch built around a military lineage. The other is Rolex’s purest expression of the no-nonsense sports watch, worn by mountaineers and geologists long before it […] Visit We Had It So Good: The IWC Mark XV And The Rolex Explorer Ref. 114270 to read the full article.

First Look - The Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT HBC001 and HBC002 Monochrome
Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s Jul 22, 2026

First Look - The Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT HBC001 and HBC002

Over the past year, Seiko has refined its Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT with several editions, including the 60th Anniversary SPB509 and the SPB534 Seashadow. Following the white-dialled SPB519, the latest additions, the non-limited references HBC001 and HBC002 in classic black or green colourways, offer the familiar design of the 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT with […]

Hands-On With The Daring And Downsized Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee” Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Jul 22, 2026

Hands-On With The Daring And Downsized Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee”

Just like an actual bumblebee, Tudor’s new Black Bay Chrono 39 appeared out of nowhere at the beginning of June. We hadn’t even had a chance to recover properly from Watches and Wonders yet. Tudor, on the other hand, was ready to go again with one of the most exciting releases of the year. Following […] Visit Hands-On With The Daring And Downsized Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee” to read the full article.

Photo Report: Tudor and Red Bull Take to the Skies Worn & Wound
Tudor Jul 21, 2026

Photo Report: Tudor and Red Bull Take to the Skies

If there’s one thing I’ve learned from being in the watch industry, it’s that you never know when you’ll have the opportunity to do something unique, and that saying “yes” to something without having all of the details might result in a rare, or even once in a lifetime experience. With that in mind, let me set the stage for how I found myself 1,000 feet above Manhattan in a 1958 DC-6B, piloted by The Flying Bulls. Early this month, I received a rather vague invitation to a ”Red Bull Flying Bulls thing with Tudor” immediately after returning from our Chicago Windup Watch Fair, and that it “involves a very early morning flight on a very old plane”. While I’d usually ask a million questions and try to get every detail that I could before committing to something, in the interest of being just a touch more spontaneous, I couldn’t respond “I’m intrigued, count me in” fast enough.  As we got closer to the event, I’d come to learn that the “old plane” in question was a beautifully restored 1958 DC-6B and the “very early morning” meant arriving at the Meatpacking Tudor Boutique at 7 AM. Once everyone arrived, our small crew began heading up to White Plains FBO, which I later learned was named Million Air. Not long into the ride, we were presented with a briefcase of loaner watches, ranging from the Tudor Ranger in 36mm “Dune” and 39mm “Black”, or the Black Bay 58 GMT on either the new five link bracelet or classic rubber strap. While...

Hands-on - The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5396R-016, Celebrating 30 Years of an Ingenious Complication Monochrome
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5396R-016 Celebrating Jul 21, 2026

Hands-on - The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5396R-016, Celebrating 30 Years of an Ingenious Complication

Introduced in 1996 with the reference 5035, Patek Philippe’s Annual Calendar was neither a simplified perpetual calendar nor an upgraded complete calendar, but an entirely new mechanism protected by a patent; we explained the full story of its creation and evolution in this article here. By automatically distinguishing between months with 30 and 31 days, […]

Dispatch: A Love Letter To "The Valley of Complications" Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre was Jul 21, 2026

Dispatch: A Love Letter To "The Valley of Complications"

Two months ago, I spent a Friday lunch eating a sandwich called the Crazy Poulet at Notos Bar Restaurant in Le Sentier with Mark Schmid, who is a sort of jack-of-all-trades in the marketing and communications department at Audemars Piguet. Schmid has quickly become someone I'd consider a friend, whom I appreciate for our candid conversations, his willingness (and frequency) to correct my confusion between l'accent aigu and l'accent grave in articles, and, more recently, his gastronomic suggestions. I'm sure this story will require a few more corrections from Mark, for which I apologize (mostly to him) in advance, but I wanted to share a recent experience that illustrates why I love Switzerland's Vallée de Joux, past and present. Le Sentier, pictured back in 2022 on the author's first trip to Switzerland. The town, now home to the headquarters of Jaeger-LeCoultre, was the hometown of Samuel-Olivier Meylan, the first watchmaker in the valley who began crafting timepieces around 1743 and set the stage for what is arguably the most important geographic location in watchmaking. "People ask me what I'd want to do if I didn't work at Hodinkee," I said. "Sometimes I say that I wish I could be the head of the tourism bureau for the Vallée de Joux." "Well, maybe you could be our advocate in New York," he said. "But if you came back here on a Thursday night at 4 o'clock, this place would be full. You'd hear watchmakers talking about all the things they were up to at AP, JLC, Blancp...

Introducing - The Impressive, Complex Louis Vuitton Escale en Alaska Pocket Watch Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Escale en Alaska Pocket Jul 21, 2026

Introducing - The Impressive, Complex Louis Vuitton Escale en Alaska Pocket Watch

Travel has always been at the heart of Louis Vuitton, and the Escales Autour du Monde collection, like all Escale watches, has a great poetic sound to it. The name, which translates as “Stopovers Around the World,” recalls Francisca Mattéoli’s celebrated book documenting Gaston-Louis Vuitton’s remarkable collection of hotel labels gathered during his travels; there’s […]

Hands-On: The Raymond Weil A.R.T. Date Delivers Sport-Chic Style At An Accessible Price WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil A.R.T Date Delivers Sport-Chic Jul 21, 2026

Hands-On: The Raymond Weil A.R.T. Date Delivers Sport-Chic Style At An Accessible Price

Raymond Weil’s first integrated-bracelet sports watch blends 1970s inspiration with compact proportions and accessible contemporary luxury. What We Love A design inspired by 1970s integrated-bracelet watches Strong variety of colours and finishes Excellent integrated-bracelet option for the price What We Don’t No bracelet micro-adjustment Dial finishing could have more character Movement could offer greater autonomy Overall Rating: 8.4/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Raymond Weil has gone through quite a resurgence over the last couple of years, bringing the brand back into the spotlight and creating watches with genuine substance behind them. The Millésime collection, for example, helped reposition Raymond Weil when it was introduced in 2023, combining vintage-inspired styling with thoughtful design. It also won the Challenge Watch Prize at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, showing just how well received the collection was. Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Review – The Best Colourway Yet? Since then, the brand has continued building on the collection, introducing various complications and aesthetic interpretations to keep it evolving. In fact, I loved the 2025 Millésime Tri-Compax Chronograph so much (see the review above!) that after having it in my hands for just 30 minutes, I placed an order for one! However, Raymond Weil’s resurgence cannot be built on the Millésime collection alone. This ...

Hands-on - The Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa, Revisiting One of the Race’s Legendary Roads Monochrome
Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Jul 21, 2026

Hands-on - The Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa, Revisiting One of the Race’s Legendary Roads

Chopard, the Official Timekeeper and World Sponsor of the famous Italian endurance rally since 1988, has released countless chronographs inspired by the Mille Miglia race, its drivers and its iconic route. The Raticosa Pass has already been honoured once before, with a limited-edition series in 2021, and this 2026 Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa pays […]

Owner’s Review: the Seiko Orange Monster SRP315 Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Ellipse as Jul 20, 2026

Owner’s Review: the Seiko Orange Monster SRP315

What is a summer watch?  It’s a question I ask myself every year around this time. It’s partly rhetorical. We all know, somehow, what a summer watch is. It conjures something in the mind’s eye of a watch enthusiast that is colorful and probably on the sporty side. It looks best when sun drenched, on the beach or a patio or a hiking trail. Or maybe even with brightly glowing dial furniture in a dark movie theater on the hottest summer afternoon, when you just need to be in an air conditioned space for a few hours.  But I also wonder, annually, if this is actually a real thing. Any watch, of course, can be worn in the summer. If it’s summer, and you’re wearing a watch, the transitive property (I think that’s the one) proves you are wearing a summer watch. It could just as easily be a Patek Philippe Ellipse as a Tudor Pelagos, even if you’re bound to sweat through the leather on the former, and even if the latter will never see a running faucet to clean a dirty dish, let alone ocean depths.  Eventually, though, I always come back to the Seiko Orange Monster. Specifically, my Orange Monster, an SRP315. As someone who normally is inclined to minimize the impact of seasonality on a watch, and insist that any watch can be worn anytime of year (they don’t actually know what season it is, after all), the Orange Monster is the one exception, the counter example that makes me question my loosely held summer watch takes. Because, frankly, I have no desire to wear th...