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Results for Antoine Norbert de Patek

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Antoine Norbert de Patek

Polish-born watchmaker who founded Patek Philippe in Geneva (1839; renamed 1851).

Introducing – The Rose Gold Version of the De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius Monochrome
De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius De Oct 22, 2024

Introducing – The Rose Gold Version of the De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius

De Bethune’s DB25 family can be regarded as the more classical face of the brand, showcasing Denis Flageollet’s passion for traditional watchmaking with a delightful cosmic twist. De Bethune recently unveiled a new version of the DB25GMT Starry Varius in a luxurious rose gold case with its mysterious GMT display signalling time with a rotating […]

Review: Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 5821 and Ref. 5822P SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref 5821 Oct 17, 2024

Review: Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 5821 and Ref. 5822P

Patek Philippe has finally debuted the long-awaited Cubitus, a collection of “elegant sporty” watches. The Cubitus is an oversized square watch with an unexpectedly elegant profile – and some echoes of the Nautilus. While that might seem like an odd recipe, the Cubitus is a successful new creation. The collection is led by the flagship Cubitus ref. 5822P Instantaneous Grand Date (pictured above) in platinum powered by an all-new calibre. The Cubitus ref. 5822P in profile The bestseller, however, will be the entry-level model, the Cubitus ref. 5821/1A, a time-and-date in steel with an olive-green dial. The Cubitus ref. 5821/1AR is also a three-hander with date, but in two-tone steel and 18k rose gold with a blue dial. The Cubitus ref. 5821/1A Initial thoughts The most discussed new launch of the year, the Cubitus is many things – “elegant sporty”, a relative of the Nautilus, and controversial – but it also surprises on the upside. I like the Cubitus, especially the base model in steel. The large square bezel complements the “ears” on either side of the case, and the bracelet integrates unexpectedly well into the design. The Cubitus has obviously inherited genes from the Nautilus – Thierry Stern himself acknowledges that – but the result is more natural than the angular bezel suggests. And Cubitus doesn’t merely transplant cosmetics, but also employs the unique one-piece case construction of the Nautilus. Importantly, the Cubitus has good ergonomics....

Introducing – The Racetrack-Ready Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads Monochrome
Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads Oct 16, 2024

Introducing – The Racetrack-Ready Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads

Launched in 2018, the Faubourg de Cracovie was Czapek’s third model and first chronograph, powered by Vaucher’s sophisticated high-frequency column-wheel movement. Maintaining the brand’s spirit of modern classicism, the 41.5mm chronograph defied the canon of most sporty stopwatches by flaunting traditional guilloché dials. This autumn, Czapek releases two iterations of its chronograph with a racing-style […]

First Look – The Extraterrestrial Meteorite Dial of the De Bethune DB28XS Aérolite Monochrome
De Bethune DB28XS Aérolite Many Sep 24, 2024

First Look – The Extraterrestrial Meteorite Dial of the De Bethune DB28XS Aérolite

Many of De Bethune’s watches reveal master watchmaker Denis Flageollet’s passion for outer space. Who could forget his interplanetary delta-shaped spaceship known as the Dream Watch 5 or his heat-blued titanium models that evoke the mystery of our cosmos? Flageollet is also drawn to extraterrestrial materials like iron meteorites, particularly fragments of the famous Muonionalusta […]

Hands On: Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual “Rose Gilt” Ref. 5236P-010 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual “Rose Gilt” Sep 9, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual “Rose Gilt” Ref. 5236P-010

Launched earlier this year as the second variant of the “linear” perpetual, following the original with a dark blue dial, the Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P-010 has a “rose-gilt opaline” dial – and was recently trending on social media for having been spotted on Facebook cofounder Mark Zuckerberg’s wrist. The symmetrical dial retains the signature calendar display in a single line under 12 o’clock, with hands and markers in black-coated white gold. It’s a cosmetic variation of the original in a currently fashionable colour, but the “salmon” dial arguably works best with the clean styling of the ref. 5236P, which is Patek Philippe’s most sophisticated perpetual calendar. Initial thoughts Officially “rose-gilt opaline”, the pink tone is often known as “salmon” and it’s probably the most fashionable colour now. While not too long ago Patek Philippe had no “salmon” dials in the regular production line up, today’s catalogue includes four. Even though the colour is in theory identical across the four current models with “rose-gilt opaline” dials, the effect varies depending on the dial finish; the ref. 5935A with guilloche dial is the most different. Of the four, the design of the ref. 5236P is the ideal complement to the “salmon” colour, even compared to the ref. 5320G-011 Perpetual Calendar that has a similar dial layout. The ref. 5320G-011. Image – Patek Philippe The pink finish is a strong colour that stan...

First Look – The Compact and Striking new De Bethune DB28XS Steel Wheels Monochrome
De Bethune DB28XS Steel Wheels What Sep 5, 2024

First Look – The Compact and Striking new De Bethune DB28XS Steel Wheels

What happens when you cross De Bethune’s compact DB28XS with the looks and transparency of the DB28XP Steel Wheels? The answer, revealed during Geneva Watch Days, is this stunning, polarizing, fascinating DB28XS Steel Wheels. As master watchmaker and founder of the De Bethune brand, Denis Flageollet points out, this is not merely an exercise in […]

Patek Philippe Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A: Patek’s First Production Steel Dress Watch in Decades Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref Aug 3, 2024

Patek Philippe Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A: Patek’s First Production Steel Dress Watch in Decades

Patek Philippe surprised Joshua Munchow with the 2019 launch of the Weekly Calendar, a new dress watch in stainless steel and the brand's first steel-encased production model since the 1970s. The 5212A Calatrava Weekly Calendar is a mix of modern technology, classic style, and a couple of unique touches that help it stand out from Patek Philippe’s typical offerings, making it one of his favorite watches from the Genevan giant in quite a while.

Hands On: De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain SJX Watches
De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain Almost Jul 22, 2024

Hands On: De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain

Almost a dress watch done in sci-fi style, the most compact version of De Bethune’s trademark model gained a striking new look this year with the DB28xs Purple Rain. Clad entirely in purple – or more accurately, titanium heat treated to purple – the DB28xs Purple Rain is distinctive and striking because of its sheer colour. Though the colour is novel for De Bethune, the watch incorporates many of the brand’s signature design elements, including a “starry sky” dial and the DB2005 movement with a proprietary titanium and white gold balance wheel. Initial thoughts De Bethune didn’t invented flame-blued titanium, but the material has become something of the brand’s signature. It has been used extensively across its product line, arguably so much that it’s not as novel as it was. De Bethune later tried titanium heated to a bronze-gold finish, but that doesn’t have the vivid hue of blue. Titanium that’s been flamed to purple, however, is as vivid as blue. And the finish is still fairly unique, since it has only been applied to the DB28xs Purple Rain as well as a handful of one-off creations. As a result, while the Purple Rain is only a colour variation of an existing model, it is usually compelling because it is both different and striking. Because it’s essentially the same material as blued titanium, purple titanium will likely have the same durability. Like the blued finish, the purple is actually a thin oxide layer on the titanium that’s created by t...

De Bethune Launches Two New DB Eight References Worn & Wound
De Bethune Launches Two New DB Jun 14, 2024

De Bethune Launches Two New DB Eight References

A little over a year on from the release of the DB Eight, De Bethune is following up the mono-usher chronograph with two new variants, each in gold, and each of which offers a welcome look back at the early days of the brand.  De Bethune is a brand well-versed in the avant-garde. The name alone tends to conjure images of remarkably blue tourbillons with spring-loaded lugs, and other sci-fi-esque watches. In the last few years, De Bethune has become well known for pushing the boundaries of watchmaking in both a technical and aesthetic sense - they even sent a watch to (near) space on the wrist of Michael Strahan. If you’re only familiar with De Bethune thanks to watches like the DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon or the DB28GS Yellow Submarine, looking back at the early days of De Bethune might come with a bit of a surprise. Early De Bethunes stood out not because of any outrageous architecture or wild case finishing, but rather thanks to a refined - and very traditional - look, backed up by the technical prowess of Denis Flageollet, the brand’s founder. The DB8 was one of these early, very traditional watches. Though still identifiable as a De Bethune thanks to its bullet lugs and three-part case, the DB8 was (in most senses) a very traditional take on the concept of a mono-pusher chronograph dress watch. The new DB Eight is a fitting follow up to that watch, holding on to much of the original’s concept and charm, but with each and every detail refined and update...

De Rijke & Co. Partners with Illustrator Guy Allen on a Trio of Limited Editions Inspired by the Amalfi Coast Worn & Wound
De Rijke & Co Partners Jun 4, 2024

De Rijke & Co. Partners with Illustrator Guy Allen on a Trio of Limited Editions Inspired by the Amalfi Coast

Over the last few years, De Rijke & Co. has built out an unlikely niche within the watch world: making highly desirable character watches featuring the beloved “Miffy” character, a staple of children’s books in the Netherlands, the brand’s home country. After the launch of the first successful Miffy moonphase, there have been several additional variants released in short order, offering colorful takes on a whimsical subject. I think most would probably agree that this represented a somewhat unexpected turn in the life of De Rijke. When we first encountered them, it was as a maker of a clever driver’s watch, with a unique case that allows the dial to be rotated within a cage to suit a driver’s needs. What’s more, De Rijke has always offered customers the ability to customize their watches to a high degree, allowing for a truly bespoke experience. The Miffy watches have been fun, but if you knew the brand before, they felt almost like a diversion.  De Rijke never stopped making those custom pieces of course, so it would be unfair to ask “What happened to this brand?” or something similarly dramatic. They haven’t gone anywhere, but clearly took an opportunity to capitalize on a watch concept that became a bit of a sensation with a very specific crowd. But now, for the first time since I’ve been writing about them, De Rijke is back with a new series that is not Miffy based, but still has a sense of that whimsy. The new entries in the Amalfi series are ba...

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Grand Complication with Double Split-Chronographs Ref. 767 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grand Complication May 16, 2024

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Grand Complication with Double Split-Chronographs Ref. 767

One of the most fascinating timepieces in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction is the Patek Philippe grand complication pocket watch ref. 767. Made in 1950 and sold in 1952, this one-of-a-kind pocket watch boasts a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and double split-seconds chronograph. More accurately, it is a mono-pusher, double split-seconds, or even triple-split seconds. This ref. 767 features not two, but three, chronograph seconds hands. As a result, it can simultaneously measure three elapsed times of up to one minute. The complication is possibly unique amongst Patek Philippe watches. A historically significant watch in itself, this ref. 767 also has notable provenance: it once belonged to Seth Atwood, the American industrialist who founded the now-closed Time Museum. According to Philips, this ref. 767 was Atwood’s everyday watch, not surprising since he was a legendary collector of his day with a collection that included the Patek Philippe Graves Supercomplication and the Duc d’Orléans Breguet Sympathique. Three seconds hands, two in blued steel and one in gold Initial thoughts I’ve been impressed by many pocket watches – some that come to include a Patek Philippe observatory tourbillon and the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie – but I’ve rarely been surprised. This ref. 767 was, however, entirely unexpected. When it was first described to me, I was confused and immediately thought of the Lange Double Split. But as it turns out, this is entirely d...