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Results for Spring Drive (9R65 / 9R86)

800 articles · 22 videos found · page 19 of 28

An Amateur Astronaut: How A Mark II Speedmaster Racing Reinforced My Love of Oddball Omegas Worn & Wound
Omega s Jul 14, 2026

An Amateur Astronaut: How A Mark II Speedmaster Racing Reinforced My Love of Oddball Omegas

For better or worse, but likely worse, I have always attempted to be an iconoclast. When the iPod debuted, I eschewed it for an oddball Korean MP3 player, which I loaded up with nu-metal at a time when all my fellow high school students were evolving into emo kids. I shamelessly drive a 38-year old Saab instead of the Porsche that I thought I could own by this age. And it’s a mentality that has extended into my watch enthusiasm as well: whenever the perennially popular Omega Speedmaster Professional sometimes seems like one of the only watches that exists among enthusiasts and lifestyle publications alike, I look at Omega’s adjacent, oddball chronographs that were in development around the same time as the moon landing.  Such as the Flightmaster: an Omega chronograph which also has an enviable space legacy, hewn from a single block of Swedish steel, same as the aforementioned Saab.    View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Blake Z. Rong (@bzrong) But it’s the Speedmaster’s sequel that commands my attention: once envisioned as a permanent successor to the Moonwatch, the Mark II Speedmaster is as bold as any seventies chronograph, worthy of the original’s lofty aspirations.  I came across this watch at Theo’s Haberdashery, a recently-opened vintage shop that highlights vintage Americana. Think woolen pennants for the Brooklyn Dodgers, Playboy matchbook covers, turquoise jewelry and custom-rolled cigars, complete with a 1950s Dodge flatbed truck parke...

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Campanola Debuts Starlight-Inspired Kōjō SJX Watches
Citizen s quirky star-struck brand Jul 9, 2026

Campanola Debuts Starlight-Inspired Kōjō

Citizen’s, quirky, star-struck brand is back with a pair of limited edition Eco-Drive complications — the Campanola Kōjō ref. BU0020-71N in stainless steel with blue dial, and the blacked-out ref. BU0024-02N, inspired by shooting stars. Campanola’s sculptural approach to dials is alive and well, proving Citizen’s ongoing technical leadership in the field of solar-powered watches. Initial thoughts Launched in the year 2000, Campanola is an astronomically inclined sub-brand of Citizen Watch Co., contending with Seiko’s Astron and Casio’s Oceanus collection in the premium multi-function solar quartz segment, but with a more refined aesthetic. In the last decade, the brand has branched out into mechanical watches which maintained the Campanola design language and external quality — the Kasanekyo 20th Anniversary limited edition features one of my favourite raden dials. However, some of the brand’s mechanical watches were arguably diminished by the use of generic Swiss automatic movements like the Sellita SW300-1, which was paired with a Jaquet big-date module in the aforementioned Kasanekyo 20th Anniversary limited edition. This limited edition duo is a return to form for the brand, with complicated Eco-Drive calibres that offer the full Campanola experience, as well as better value. Of course, that comes with the usual tradeoffs, namely a 14.8 mm case height. That is mitigated by the rather wide 43.5 mm case diameter, which makes the height proportionally r...

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Introducing - The new Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 3SPC.2-1 Monochrome
Chopard s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele Jul 7, 2026

Introducing - The new Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 3SPC.2-1

Following the resurrection of the name Ferdinand Berthoud by Chopard’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele in 2015, with the introduction of the Chronomètre FB1, a superb tourbillon watch with fusée-and-chain device, followed by the no less spectacular Chronomètre FB2, the brand presented another award-winning watch, a superb wrist chronometer with cylindrical balance-spring named the Chronomètre FB 3SPC – […]

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All the Things to Do at Our Largest Windup Watch Fair Chicago Ever Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Citizen eBay Live Jul 2, 2026

All the Things to Do at Our Largest Windup Watch Fair Chicago Ever

Windup Watch Fair Chicago is almost here, and we’re excited to share everything happening throughout the weekend. Over the last four years, Chicago has become one of our fastest-growing events, so this year we’re moving into a brand-new venue with more space, more natural light, and more room to explore. Join us at Morgan MFG, a beautiful industrial venue just steps from Chicago’s vibrant Fulton Market district. Windup Watch Fair Chicago Friday, July 10 – Sunday, July 12, 2026 Morgan MFG 401 N Morgan St. Suite #100 Chicago, IL 60642 Free and open to everyone. No registration required. We’re also proud to welcome our Lead Sponsors for Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2026: Atelier Wen, Christopher Ward, Citizen, eBay Live, and Oris. Together with more than 70 exhibiting brands from around the world, they’ll help make this our biggest Chicago show yet. As you arrive, you’ll be welcomed by our friends at Omologato, who have partnered with Chip Ganassi Racing to bring something truly special to the show. Displayed in the main lobby all weekend will be the No. 10 IndyCar driven by Alex Palou to the 2025 IndyCar Championship—a must-see for racing fans and watch enthusiasts alike. Be sure to pick up your complimentary Windup Watch Fair guide along with the latest issue of WatchPro magazine, our inaugural Official Print Media Sponsor. While you’re there, scan our giveaway QR code for a chance to win prizes from our pals at Vostok Europe and Rumpl. Inside the venue, don...

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New: The CITIZEN AQ4094-58L Limited Edition Deployant
Citizen AQ4094-58L Limited Edition Jun 27, 2026

New: The CITIZEN AQ4094-58L Limited Edition

The CITIZEN introduces a limited-edition model with an indigo washi paper dial hand-dyed in kachi-iro, the traditional Japanese “victory colour,” in a 40mm Super Titanium case with Cal. A060 Eco-Drive movement. 400 pieces worldwide. The following post is based on press release information. Editorial commentary appears in italics. New: The CITIZEN AQ4094-58L Limited Edition CommentaryRead More

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Introducing: Grand Seiko Updates The Core Evolution 9 Collection With Tapered Bracelets And Micro-Adjustment Clasps (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Grand Seiko Updates Jun 24, 2026

Introducing: Grand Seiko Updates The Core Evolution 9 Collection With Tapered Bracelets And Micro-Adjustment Clasps (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, Grand Seiko introduces nine new variants to the three-hander, time-and-date models in its Evolution 9 collection. If you're feeling overwhelmed by that already, don't worry. Yes, there's quite a bit of nuance to unpack here among all these references, but not all nine are really new watches, per se. Many of them are existing models, just slightly modified. If you've read the title of this article, you'll already know that the biggest updates to these Evolution 9 models are things that collectors have long clamored for— tapered bracelets and clasps with tool-free microadjustment. Yes, for those who weren't able to achieve a perfect fit with previous Evolution 9 models, they will be able to now and can adjust accordingly, especially in hotter months with more wrist swelling. The clasp design comes from the original Evolution UFA SLGB003 model introduced last year, but now has spread to the rest of the collection, in both steel and titanium versions, and both 37mm and 40mm. Gone are the 5-day Spring Drive 9RA2 calibers used in the collection, replaced entirely with the U.F.A caliber 9RB2. This means that for those who found the 37mm U.F.A models too small, the more classic 40mm versions now get the ultra-accurate caliber that features an annual rated accuracy of +/- 20 seconds (timing per month is quoted at +/- 3 seconds). This is a big deal, and I think it suggests that Grand Seiko could be making a move to replace all of its Spring Drive calibers down ...

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Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Is Back Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Jun 16, 2026

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Is Back

What We Know Vacheron just brought back its incredibly unique Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, and it's a welcome sight for dedicated collectors of the brand, along with general enthusiasts of unexpected yet innovative takes on complicated watchmaking. If you're not familiar with the original Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, launched back in 2019, the watch offered an incredibly novel solution to a problem often found within perpetual calendar watches. Let's be honest, though the entire appeal and genius of the perpetual calendar is for someone wearing one watch all day, every day, for the whole year, watches like these are most often owned by those with a large collection to begin with. A weekend for a perpetual calendar in a watch box or drawer would mean that the complication would need to be set again after winding, and so Vacheron introduced this perpetual calendar with a whopping 65-day power reserve. To achieve this, rather than putting in an unfeasibly large mainspring in the barrel, the Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar lives up to its name by offering a new system that allows for switching between two beat rates for the watch—a contemporary high-beat 5Hz frequency with a 4-day power reserve for normal timekeeping during wear, but a much slower 1.2Hz mode with that prolonged power reserve for the "Standby" phase. The Caliber 3610QP comprises two separate gear trains for the two regulating systems, with a series of differentials tha...

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The Business of Watches Podcast: Studio Underd0g Founder Richard Benc Hodinkee
Ming next - there will Jun 3, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Studio Underd0g Founder Richard Benc

This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the man behind one of the more successful new watch brands in recent years, Studio Underd0g. Richard Benc is just 33, and since 2020, he's built his irreverent, approachable-priced, design-driven brand to a significant size, producing about 14,000 watches last year.   Richard Benc (Photo Courtesy Studio Underd0g). And he's done it all, not from Switzerland or Hong Kong, but from the U.K. Benc has grown his business with intent, making strategic investments in his supply chain, including buying full control of the assembly and after-sales service company that builds Studio Underd0g's distinct timepieces.  Studio Underd0g is now the biggest assembler of mechanical watches in the U.K. and isn't only selling watches with drops and collabs, but is building up stock to make more watches available on its website.  Next up for Benc and his brand is a new physical, public, and retail location. The 'D0ghouse' will open in Maidenhead this month and serve as a public showcase for the upstart brand and its operations. It's another big step for the company that comes with its own set of fresh opportunities and challenges. And Benc gives us a tease on what may be coming next - there will be a new 04Series of watches that will take the brand to a place it hasn't been (mechanically) before.  But first, some watch industry business news headlines, including secondary market price rises, executive moves at the big auction houses, an...

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Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 "Bumblebee" Hodinkee
Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Jun 3, 2026

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 "Bumblebee"

What We Know There's a new Tudor chronograph in town, and guess what, it's smaller. After kicking off the format in 41mm back in 2017, Tudor has now downsized the brand's dive/drive chronograph design to a new 39mm case width. The new Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 "Bumblebee" sports a bright and vivid yellow dial with black counters, giving the new reference (79310N) a link to the preceding Pink and Flamingo Blue versions of the Black Bay Chronograph.  We can get to the dial in a moment, but for a smaller take on any Tudor, let's start with millimeters. The new Black Bay Chronograph 39 measures 39mm wide, 13.1mm thick, and 47mm lug-to-lug. Compare that to 41 x 14.4 x 49.9 of the current 41mm model, be it white, black, blue, black & gold, pink, or flamingo. Water resistance remains at 200m with screw-down crowns for the chronograph controls, and that bright yellow dial is framed by a fixed tachymeter scale rendered in black aluminum.  On to the dial, which is colored a bright and punchy yellow as a nod to the brand's "Tiger" chronographs of the 1990s. The markers and hands have black surrounds, and the water resistance is shown in red (as it is on the Black Bay Chrono 39's larger counterparts). Tudor also notes that the snowflake hands have been redesigned to aid in chronograph legibility. While I have yet to measure more accurately, if you compare the reach of the hour hand toward the 60 marker on the running seconds subdial, it appears shorter than in the 41mm models.  Tic...

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Hands-On: Taking The Citizen Attesa Platinum Shine Back To The Country And Culture That Created It Hodinkee
Citizen Attesa Platinum Shine Back Jun 2, 2026

Hands-On: Taking The Citizen Attesa Platinum Shine Back To The Country And Culture That Created It

There are few things better in the realm of watch ownership than using your watch for its stated purpose – diving with a diver, flying with a pilot watch, traveling with a Worldtimer. Even better still, getting to do so while taking your watch back to the place where it was created, experiencing the country and culture that brought it to life. This past spring, in the height of that most cherished of seasons when the cherry blossoms in Japan bloom, I had the opportunity to do just that with the Citizen Attesa Platinum Shine. Attesa is, in many ways, a distillation of everything that makes Citizen special. It is the collection that showcases the most advanced technologies and techniques. They are modern, even futuristic-looking watches, designed with a forward-looking perspective on who Citizen is, and where it is going.  Radio or satellite-controlled Eco-Drive movements, unique and complex dial materials, various cutting-edge methods for utilizing some of the best titanium alloys in watchmaking – these are all hallmarks of the Attesa collection. Like all of Citizen's watches, regardless of collection or price, Attesa is assembled by hand with the utmost capability and care. An evolution of the radio antennas used in Eco-Drive watches throughout the years. First released in 2025, when the Attesa collection was re-established in the U.S. as part of Citizen's new Premier category, the watch is available in several variations. Each one has a different reference number, an...

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Highlights: Artistic Horology at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
May 29, 2026

Highlights: Artistic Horology at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ spring auction season heads east for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. In addition to a strong roster of complications from big brands, and interesting indies as usual, there is a strong showing from the more artistic side of watchmaking spanning gemsetting, enamelling, hand engraving, and wood marquetry. Lot 1010 – Jaquet Droz Magic Lotus Automaton Pierre Jaquet-Droz (1721 – 1790) was an extraordinarily skilled automata maker from La Chaux-de-Fonds, his most famous work being The Writer, which can write up to 40 pre-programmed characters, dipping his quill into an ink pot at intervals. Today, Swatch Group uses his name for métiers d’art watches and automata; this watch is both. The onyx dial adds lapidary into the mix. It is a two-train watch — turning the crown one direction winds the movement, while the other winds the animation, which is tripped by a button in the crown and runs for an unusually long four minutes on a full wind. The koi swims around the dial, moving its tail back and forth and dives slightly to pass underneath the floating foliage (which is made of gold). A floating lotus flower opposite the koi acts as a visual counterweight. The petals clutch a yellow sapphire — or is it a red ruby, or a blue sapphire? It changes as the flower passes under the leaves or dial. Finally, while the koi is cavorting around the dial, the dragonfly is hard at work keeping track of the movement’s 68-hour power reserve. That movement...

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Highlights: Notable Independents at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
F.P. Journe May 27, 2026

Highlights: Notable Independents at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ spring auction season wraps up with The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. As is now the norm, independent watchmakers have carved out a significant section of the catalogue including the usual suspects from F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour, as well as rare showings from under-the-radar makers like Oscillon and Yosuke Sekiguchi. Lot 878 – Oscillon L’instant de Vérité Despite how hot the indie segment has become, Oscillon has largely stayed under the radar, perhaps due to its intensely cerebral nature, or because the brand only produces about five watches per year. The duo behind the brand, Dominique Buser and Cyrano Devanthey, are collectors of pre-computerised watchmaking machines. Their collection is so extensive that they can produce all movement parts – save for the jewels and shock protection – under their own roof using these machines. Even putting this context aside, the watches themselves are still mechanically interesting. The most striking detail is the bowtie-shaped balance, which is harder to poise and less aerodynamic than a conventional annular balance, but looks much cooler. L’instant de Vérité uses an unusual tensator constant-force spring. To explain this, consider a tape measure. The force required to pull more length from a tape measure doesn’t noticeably increase regardless of the length already paid out. Now imagine hooking the end of the tape to a pulley, so that turning the pulley (winding) pulls tape out, and ...

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Highlights: Patek Philippe Complications at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Complications May 25, 2026

Highlights: Patek Philippe Complications at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ spring auction season goes east for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. As usual, Phillips has put together a very strong lineup, and, as is often the case at watch auctions, Patek Philippe watches — both vintage and modern — have an outsized share of the catalogue. Lot 940 – Patek Philippe Bailey Banks & Biddle Triple Complication Patek Philippe produced this watch for Philadelphian jeweler Bailey Banks & Biddle around 1895, and it bears only the retailer’s name on the dial, which was not unusual. While the company came to a rather undignified end in the 21st century, it was once a manufacturing jeweller, medalist, and major Patek Philippe retailer. The dial is in rather rough condition by the standards of enamel dials, and while the dial may the most important thing to many wristwatch collectors, here the triple-complication movement is what matters. It features a minute repeater, chronograph, and perpetual calendar — which is presumably instantaneous. Note the lack of a minutes counter for the chronograph. While taken for granted on modern chronographs, most Patek Philippe triple complications did without it. In fact, the most common upgrade path for triple complications was a rattrapante, not minutes counter. The counterweighted pallet fork is also worth mention — this refinement disappeared as the Swiss lever matured and watchmakers realised a lighter pallet fork was better than a balanced one. The movement is fully functional, ...

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Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The 152nd Kentucky Derby Hodinkee
Longines has been May 14, 2026

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The 152nd Kentucky Derby

Each spring for the last 152 years, 20 of the fastest horses in the country line up to run at legendary Churchill Downs racetrack in Louisville, Kentucky. In the two minutes that follow, the world holds its breath, watching as history unfolds. For the past 15 years, Swiss watchmaker Longines has been the official timekeeper of the Kentucky Derby and, in 2013, became the title sponsor of the Kentucky Oaks, which takes place the day before. It's a weekend of splendor that has transcended the equestrian world, becoming the social event of the season. Longines Spirit Pilot Flyback Chronograph and Primaluna Moonphase. Longines' legacy in the equestrian world predates the derby itself, with the brand producing pocket watches and chronographs featuring equestrian motifs as early as 1869. Their chronographs were later utilized by racecourses towards the end of the 1800s. From there, Longines has been involved in nearly every aspect of competitive horsemanship throughout the 20th and now into the 21st century, from flat racing to Show Jumping, Dressage, and Eventing, serving as the official timekeeper and sponsor of some of the most prestigious competitions in the world. Georgia Benjamin's (@Georgiabenj) watch dial themed hat for the Kentucky Oaks. The Kentucky Derby, which this year boasted its highest viewership in history with nearly 20 million viewers, has been held at the historic Churchill Downs racetrack since its inception. There have been many historic races over the past ...

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Hands-On with the New Releases from Naoya Hida Worn & Wound
Ming Naoya Hida releases May 7, 2026

Hands-On with the New Releases from Naoya Hida

One of my favorite days on the watch media calendar every year is the Naoya Hida preview day. Every spring for the last few years, watch media types make appointments at the Armoury on the Upper East Side to get a look at the upcoming Naoya Hida releases for the year. It feels like a very old fashioned way of doing things. Yes, there’s a press release sent out ahead of time, but Naoya Hida only makes one announcement like this per year – there are no mid-cycle drops or limited editions released to coincide with some later event. Members of the Naoya Hida team are present and there to explain the collection, piece by piece.  This year, Naoya Hida will produce a total of 10 models, 7 of which are new designs. We won’t go through each one here, but rather focus on the references that are completely new and those that have the most notable upgrades.  The reference that immediately caught my eye and was easily the most unexpected of the bunch is the new NH TYPE2C-2. To this point, Naoya Hida has really been defined, in my estimation, by their dial aesthetic, which prominently features elaborate hand engravings in the dial surface. It’s a very traditional and inherently ornate way to make a dial, and the execution is always top notch. It’s a type of craft that’s a true “IYKYK” proposition, though. From a distance the handwork on these dials might not be obvious, but they really come alive under close examination, especially under a loupe.  Anyway, the TYPE2C-2...

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SJX Podcast: Geneva Auction Preview SJX Watches
Patek Philippe worldtime ref 2523 May 6, 2026

SJX Podcast: Geneva Auction Preview

The spring auction season gets underway in Geneva in just a few days. On episode 39 of the SJX Podcast, we look at some of the top lots that caught our attention at Phillips, Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Antiquorum, including a cloisonné enamel Patek Philippe worldtime ref. 2523, an Akrivia AK-06, and several notable pocket watches from names like Frodsham, Kullberg, Ditisheim, Patek Philippe, and A. Lange & Söhne. Auction dates (in order): Phillips: May 9 & 10 Antiquorum: May 9 & 10 Sotheby’s: May 10 Christie’s: May 11 & 12 Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

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Hands On: Ressence Type 11 SJX Watches
Ressence Type 11 Among May 1, 2026

Hands On: Ressence Type 11

Among the independent brands officially exhibiting at Watches & Wonders, Ressence was a standout. The design-forward Belgian independent took a major step forward with the Type 11, powered by the brand’s first proprietary calibre, the RW-01. The Type 11 is tangibly appealing and priced well considering both its unique design and technical content. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the Type 11 and its RW-01 movement, I had the same feeling as when Urwerk launched the EMC back in 2013. At the time, the EMC felt like the start of a new era for a brand that had, up to that point, primarily put its proprietary modules atop widely available off-the-shelf calibres. The EMC proved Urwerk was willing to rethink the movement in its entirety to realise a specific vision. The RW-01 reveals Ressence is moving in that same direction. After 15 years of adapting its Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) modules to ETA-derived calibres, the brand has taken the next step in its development and partnered with an adept supplier to construct a proprietary movement uniquely suited to its signature design. The new calibre was engineered with Ressence’s ROCS module in mind. The movement layout appears purpose-built for winding and setting via the case back, lacking an ordinary stem, and dual serially coupled mainspring barrels extend the power reserve to 60 hours — quite long considering the mass of the ROCS module. While I would have been delighted to see a free-sprung balance, I...

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Everything to See and Do at Windup San Francisco: Padel, Panels, Parties, Watches, and More! Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Apr 29, 2026

Everything to See and Do at Windup San Francisco: Padel, Panels, Parties, Watches, and More!

The 2026 Windup Watch Fair San Francisco is just days away, and we’re fairly certain there’s never been a Windup with as much going on as this one. Alongside everything you’d expect—like amazing lead sponsors including Bremont, Brew, Christopher Ward, Frederique Constant, and Oris—this fair also features 80+ brands from around the world and a slew of extracurricular activities across all three days. Here’s a quick guide to everything happening in and around the big weekend in The Bay Area, starting with a reminder of the where and when. Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Friday, May 1 – Sunday, May 3, 2026 Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture San Francisco, CA Free and open to everyone No registration necessary EDC Expo, Giveaways, and More We’re excited for the return of the EDC Expo, presented by GiantMouse. Longtime supporters of Windup, the team at GiantMouse is elevating the gear and accessories section in a meaningful way with their ACE Riv in titanium, brass, green canvas Micarta, and more. Nearly a dozen everyday carry and accessory brands will greet you at the front of Gateway Pavilion. For the first time, you’ll also find Kindred Motorworks on-site, showcasing their meticulously restored EV Broncos—and yes, you can sign up to test-drive one through some of San Francisco’s most iconic streets. Our friends at Fitwell will be joined by their mustachioed mate Andy from Andy’s Watches on Instagram and TikTok at their EDC Expo b...

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Photo Report: The Sights, Watches, And Style Of Watches & Wonders 2026 Hodinkee
Ming experience Apr 24, 2026

Photo Report: The Sights, Watches, And Style Of Watches & Wonders 2026

Each year, as spring returns to the shores of Lake Geneva, bringing with it contrasting days of grey rainy dreariness and crisp, shimmering sunshine, a storm descends upon the picturesque canton. But this storm doesn't contain the aforementioned April showers; instead, it's thousands upon thousands of passionate professionals, journalists, retailers, brand representatives, and collectors, all congregating for that most celebrated of horological weeks: Watches & Wonders. For those who attend, it is a marathon of epic proportions, with days spent rushing from one appointment to the next with barely a moment to breathe and evenings spent either at fabulous dinners or hunched over laptops until the wee hours of the morning. It's a pace that gives you whiplash (and for those who work for the brands, be it in sales, PR, marketing, or otherwise, it is even more grueling). For everyone else following along at home with a love for watches, it is the Super Bowl, Christmas Morning, and the Emerald City at the end of the Yellow Brick Road, all rolled into one. Walking into the show for the first time is an overwhelming experience. The sheer scope and scale of the installations (to call them 'booths' deeply undersells the grandeur) are hard to understand. Each brand spends months, if not years, designing and building entire flagship boutiques within the halls of Palexpo, each trying to make an impact on the industry and communicate its themes, strategies, and identity for the coming ye...

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Venezianico Introduces the Arsenale Calendario Worn & Wound
Venezianico Introduces Apr 20, 2026

Venezianico Introduces the Arsenale Calendario

Fresh off the nonstop excitement of Watches & Wonders, it’s easy to ignore any releases that occur outside of the Geneva city limits. The spring is still young, though, and there are still plenty of exciting launches to go in 2026. In that vein, Italian brand Venezianico is doubling down on their mission of Italian-made mechanical timepieces with the new Arsenale Calendario duo, inspired by the Arsenale di Venezia, the world’s oldest shipyard. The Arsenale collection isn’t brand new: the Meteorite model touched on space as a theme, and the Bizantino and Sumi-e watches took more decorative, artistic approaches. The Calendario, though, draws from what Venezianico calls “the architecture of time”. Basically, it adds new complications-a complete calendar, a power-reserve indicator, and a day-night indicator-to emphasize the passing of time in a material way.  In terms of basic dimensions, the Calendario sits within a 316L stainless steel case with a satin finish, and measures in at 40mm in diameter and 44mm lug-to-lug. It’s not exactly thin at 9.6mm of thickness, and the double-domed sapphire adds another 1.4mm on the top, giving it a solid presence despite the dress watch-adjacent design. A knurled stainless steel bezel and screw-down crown at 3 o’clock add texture to the case, and further emphasize the depth of the sunburst dial, which is available in two colorways: burgundy red and blue. These are not subtle shades, and the concentric texture of the dial ...

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Live from WWG26: highlight of the new releases from IWC Deployant
IWC DEPLOYANT - Apr 17, 2026

Live from WWG26: highlight of the new releases from IWC

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors For this year, IWC released several novelties, including the Big Pilot Petit Prince and the big novelty is the space Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive. A very clear dial layout which is of the Pilot’s Vertical Drive is built from the ground up. The closed case back is a design choice to make the watch as [...] The post Live from WWG26: highlight of the new releases from IWC appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

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First Look - The Yellow Gold Grand Seiko 62GS Sakura-Wakaba SBGH376 Monochrome
Grand Seiko 62GS Sakura-Wakaba SBGH376 Grand Apr 15, 2026

First Look - The Yellow Gold Grand Seiko 62GS Sakura-Wakaba SBGH376

Grand Seiko is renowned for its nature-inspired, handcrafted dials that capture Japan’s seasonal landscapes. The annual flowering of the cherry blossom heralds the arrival of spring and inspires profound reverence in Japan as a symbol of life’s fleeting beauty and renewal. Grand Seiko captures the evanescent beauty of the cherry blossom for a lifetime on […]

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First Look - The New Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition Monochrome
Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 Apr 14, 2026

First Look - The New Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition

Armin Strom is an undisputed champion of watchmaking in consistently exploring the physics of resonance. Since the debut of its Mirrored Force Resonance in 2016, the brand has developed a recognisable mechanical signature based on dual oscillators linked by a clutch spring. The new Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition revisits one of its most […]

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Watches & Wonders: Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 54 Blue Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 54 Blue

Tudor continues to expand their Black Bay 54 collection at this year’s Watches & Wonders with the Black Bay 54 “Blue”. Since the launch of the original Black Bay 54, the diver has settled into a role as a favorite among enthusiasts for its slender, compact proportions. The original release was a straightforward black dialed, black bezel affair, and last summer saw the surprise launch of the “Lagoon Blue” reference that re-characterized the watch as a fun, more jewelry oriented diver than we would have expected. A diver with a blue dial and bezel is frankly something expected in a dive watch lineup these days, so this release is not so much a surprise, but it’s interesting to see how Tudor executes on a dive watch standard.  In terms of specs, there are no big surprises here, and this edition of the 54 follows those that have come before. The case in stainless steel measures 37mm in diameter and has water resistance to 200 meters. It runs on the same MT5400 movement, which is COSC-certified and has a silicon balance spring and 70-hour power reserve. It’s available on both a rivet style three link bracelet or a rubber strap.  The blue dial is very, very blue. Tudor refers to it as “sapphire blue” and in the bright lights of their booth at Palexpo the sunray finishing and almost purple-ish hues are quite prominent on the dial. It’s very saturated, and I think even in less intense lighting it will have a lot of presence. If you compare it to other blue wa...

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