1,098 articles · 154 videos found · page 19 of 42
The 1954 French military flyback chronograph - reborn in-house in 2023.
Monochrome
I’ve always been a big fan of watches that have something moving on the dial, other than the smooth and consistent running of hour, minute and second hands. Whether it’s a dial-mounted balance wheel, a tourbillon escapement or even a winding rotor, I just love to see some type of action that goes beyond pure […]
Fratello
When you type in “retrograde” in the search box on the Fratello homepage, the results are watches in the upper echelons of high horology. The presence of a Longines is the exception that proves the rule. However, there is a brand that can be categorized as “affordable luxury watchmaking” and has quite a reputation for […] Visit Introducing: The Maurice Lacroix 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde With The Brand’s 26th Masterpiece Caliber to read the full article.
Fratello
Last year, I also wrote an article on my New Year’s resolutions. It actually contained one bold resolution: I was considering letting my Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Medium Duoface go in favor of a Ressence Type 9. At the end of the article, I also mentioned that it might be more of a long-term plan. Well, […] Visit Daan’s Watch Resolutions For 2026 - More Concrete Options For Contemporary Watches to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Fantastic Four: First Steps has been in theaters for about a week as I type. I just saw it last night, after the first-weekend crowds have dissipated significantly. There’s been a great deal of conversation about the importance of this Fantastic Four film in the movie community. Marvel, it’s no secret, has been slipping a bit as of late. Their splashy superhero action films are no longer guaranteed to approach a billion dollars in revenue. Add to that, a new Superman film is also in theaters, and has been pretty well received thus far. For the first time in years, it feels like DC film adaptations might be having a moment. The conventional wisdom is that Fantastic Four needs to be huge, shepherding the MCU faithful with excitement into a big and even higher stakes Avengers film next year. I personally didn’t care all that much for First Steps. I thought the CGI looked, well, kinda bad. And the principal characters were mostly miscast. But there were silver linings, if you looked for them. Mole Man, played by Paul Walter Hauser, is a character worthy of a spin-off if there ever was one. Please, just put this character in every MCU movie from here on out. We’re still in a multi-verse arc, so it should be pretty easy to write him into movies he otherwise doesn’t belong in. The other great strength of the movie is the production design. Unlike just about every other MCU movie, this one is effectively a standalone piece that doesn’t really require a deep famil...
Monochrome
Whether you’re the type to pull up a deck chair and lounge by the pool, or aim to be more adventurous and go for deep-sea cave diving, you need something fitting on the wrist for summer. With an abundance of new dive watches introduced throughout the year, it can be cumbersome to narrow down your […]
Video
At the time of recording, the exchange rate was 1 GBP = 1.33 USD. Please note that exchange rates fluctuate, so the conversion may differ when you view this video. Always check current exchange rates for the most accu...
Fratello
Another historic French watch brand has been revived, and this time, it’s in a way we’ve never seen. Chronofixe, initially founded in the 1850s, became a well-known altimeter and Type 20 chronograph maker in the 1960s. After that, though, the brand went quiet. A virtually unknown Chronofixe watch, model Flight 1952, already surfaced a few […] Visit Hands-On With The Chronofixe × Seconde/Seconde/ Asterix Watch to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
It’s a little crazy to actually type this out but I never actually owned a Seiko watch until this year. Obviously I have reviewed, written about, photographed, and indeed appreciated dozens and dozens of Seikos throughout the decade I have been in this industry but there was never one that truly spoke to me as a collector. Well, that was until I saw news of the Presage SPB437, a beautiful limited edition done with a blue enamel dial as a tribute to Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind, one of my favorite movies of all time and the Hayao Miyazaki film that led to the creation of Studio Ghibli, the legendary Japanese animation studio. 2024 marked the 40th anniversary of Nausicaä which seems like the perfect opportunity to release a limited edition for the most hardcore fans. This is not the first Seiko watch done for Studio Ghibli as there was a pair of Presage watches released in 2020 for the also-great Porco Rosso. The first of these was the SNR047J1, a 500-piece limited edition done with a Spring Drive movement and a white enamel dial inspired by the cockpit of the Crimson Pig’s plane with subtle touches like red seconds hand, red R, and the The Tricolour Italian flag colors. The second of these was the SRQ033, a black enamel dial Spring Drive chronograph with similar color touches and a Tricolour seconds sub-dial at 3 o’clock that was limited to 600 pieces. These were magnificent pieces made for Ghibli-heads like myself though they were significantly pricer at ar...
Fratello
H. Moser & Cie. is not the type of brand that revels in its heritage. The brand’s catalog consists of forward-focused offerings that are hardly ever sentimental in this sense. This is quite admirable as there is plenty of history to lean on, but the Schaffhausen-based company prefers to lean on its present-day prowess. Enter […] Visit Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. × Massena Lab Endeavour Chronograph to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The New Years holiday is typically a time to reflect and set some goals for the upcoming year ahead. Even if you’re not into setting New Year’s resolutions, the turning over of the calendar is a good opportunity to take stock. I’m not normally the type to set New Year’s resolutions myself, so I hope you won’t think it’s presumptuous that I’m about to lay out a goal for the entire watch community. I’d like to humbly propose that 2024 be the year we collectively abandon a practice that I’ve personally always found a bit strange: the “watch” Instagram account that sits alongside your “regular” account. Two accounts! One just for watches, one for – and I’m gesturing wildly here with both arms – everything else. To me that seems like a lot of work. Why do we do this? I’ve heard all kinds of explanations. The most common is that we, as watch collectors, don’t want to endure the weird looks and questions from friends and family when they see regular wrist shots pop up in their feed. To that I say: they already know how weird you are. We should fly our watch freak flags high, with wrist shots alongside pics of your breakfast burritos, gym selfies, and summit photos. Current grid: Just about all watches In 2024, let’s say goodbye to the idea that a watch focused Instagram is somehow not worthy of the views of your non-watch obsessed friends. They should accept you for who you are. And if somehow you’ve kept your watch hobby a secret all t...
Worn & Wound
For the latest Massena LAB limited edition, William Massena’s boutique brand specializing in tasteful remakes of classic pieces with real watch nerd pedigree is reaching back to the 1960s, and showcasing a different type of tool watch. The collaborator for this edition, Angelus, is a historic Swiss brand known largely for their excellent chronographs, and the limited edition seen here is based on a deep cut made specifically for physicians. The Chronographe Médical x Massena LAB is the first watch in Angelus’s new La Fabrique collection, which will specialize in recreating important Angelus watches in small batch limited editions. The principle behind a “doctor’s watch” is fairly well known. These watches were typically chronographs that incorporate a pulsation scale at the perimeter of the dial or within a bezel, making it easy for a doctor to quickly calculate the heartrate of a patient. Their operation is simple: start the chronograph, count ten heartbeats (or the number the scale on your watch is calibrated for), and then stop the chronograph. The chronograph seconds hand will be pointing to the number of heart beats per minute. You can imagine that the practicality here for a doctor, particularly when watches like this were being made in the 1950s and 60s, was off the charts. Even for the average person, it could be argued that a pulsation scale would be more useful day to day than something like a tachymeter or a telemeter. The Chronograph Médical lim...
Video
Two years ago, I bought what I believed was my grail watch: the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M No Time To Die, reference 210.90.42.20.01.001.This is the titanium Omega 007 watch worn by James Bond in No Time To Die, featu...
Worn & Wound
G-SHOCK has had a string of successful releases over the past few years with full metal watches that incorporate some type of interesting, laser engraved design. It turns out that the G-SHOCK case and bracelet is a surprisingly versatile canvas for compelling camo designs, sci-fi influenced schematics, and the touch of an actual artist. With this latest release, the design influence is actually G-SHOCK itself, using the design of their own circuit board as a jumping off point for a very contemporary watch that pays tribute to the brand’s roots. The G-SHOCK Circuit Camouflage, reference GMWB5000TCC1, is billed as a titanium version of the very first G-SHOCK, the famed DW-5000C. You’ll note that the new watch shares the same iconic case lines as that early G-SHOCK release, just in titanium, rather than resin. The camo-like design that has been laser etched on the case and bracelet is a real G-SHOCK insider’s treat. The pattern is lifted from the 3459 circuit board found in the GMWB5000 series watches, and has been meticulously recreated using some fairly high end manufacturing techniques. The base of the watch is a coating of black IP. This ion plating technique has been the go-to process for G-SHOCK in virtually all of their recent coated metal watches. The circuit board pattern is drawn twice using a laser irradiation process, once prior to the black IP coating, and then again after. According to G-SHOCK, this process gives the pattern a depth that would not othe...
Time+Tide
Fortis has taken inspiration from the heavens for years, whether that be via space flights, or through creating impressive pilot’s watches. Starting in the late 80s, the first Fortis Flieger had a classic type-B layout, sword hands and no-nonsense case architecture. By 1994, Fortis’ functional approach already saw light of day, as they introduced a utilitarian … ContinuedThe post The Fortis Flieger F-39 is a capable alt-take on a pilot’s watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Many of you are likely to be asking yourselves, “Who is Gerd-Rüdiger Lang?” Understandable. If we told you he founded Chronoswiss in 1983, you might then say, “Ah, yes.” But did you know that Lang, who sold Chronoswiss in 2012, owns a collection of chronographs that might well be the most complete themed collection of this type in the world? Elizabeth Doerr takes us through just a few of the treasures in Lang's collection.
Revolution
IWC releases two Spitfire editions of its Big Pilot’s Watch 43, in titanium and bronze respectively with titanium casebacks, wearing a Type B dial.
SJX Watches
Though just 10 years old, Belgian watchmaker Ressence has already made its mark with its sleek, inventive designs centred on a planetary time display – which is fun and surprisingly legible – and an ingenious, oil-filled case. To mark its 10th anniversary, the brand rolled out a quartet of limited-edition “X” series watches, which has just reached its conclusion with the launch of the final instalment, the Type 1 Squared X. The Type 1 Squared X Each of the anniversary watches was based on a standard model, but gently and cleverly tweaked to distinguish them. A recurring theme throughout the quartet is green dial, albeit in different shades, and more notably, quirky technical modifications. So the new Type 1 Squared X is clad in metallic, olive green while having a novel day and night indicator that relies on coloured ceramic ball. The X series (from the top): Type 1 Squared X, Type 5X, Type 3X, and Type 1 Slim X Initial thoughts Ressence watches are appealing in a quirky way. Though entirely mechanical, they evoke the liquid-crystal displays of smart watches. Many of the brand’s watches are modern, looking cool but somewhat cold in their black or grey metallic colours. The Type 1 Squared X, however, lightens its tone with the green dial. And it is made all the more intriguing with its day and night indicator developed with the neuroscientist at Harvard, a string of colourful ceramic ball that Ressence dubs the “Time by Colour” system. Nevertheless, the Type ...
Video
At the time of recording, the exchange rate was 1 GBP = 1.33 USD. Please note that exchange rates fluctuate, so the conversion may differ when you view this video. Always check current exchange rates for the most accu...
Quill & Pad
It’s no surprise that MB&F; would create a special limited series of Legacy Machines honoring Jules Verne and the type of retro-futurism found within his novels. Yet this project is also the artistic child of master engraver Eddy Jaquet who has worked with MB&F; for the last decade and was the driver behind the focus of each piece on and how to realize it. The results of these eight unique timepieces are simply spectacular.
Revolution
Panerai unveil two Radiomir watches as part of their pre-SIHH 2017 announcements that pay homage to the great ref. 3646, Type A.
Worn & Wound
I’m going to say something quite controversial here, dear Reader, and tell you that I think pizza, in general, is just okay. I’ve had Neapolitan-style in Naples and Chicago-style in Chicago, and even Altoona-style in Altoona (for the unfamiliar, it’s got green peppers and American cheese on it and is disgusting). I’ve just never been especially impressed. With pepperoni or without, deep-dish or thin-crusted, it’s all the same to me. I mean, I like pizza, but I’m not one of those performative yuppies who sit behind their keyboard (okay, I am right now, but that’s because I’m getting paid to be) and tell you about the virtues of this type of tomato and that type of dough and the purity of ingredients and how pineapple on pizza isn’t real pizza and blah, blah, blah. Like I said, it’s not that I don’t like pizza. I just don’t think it’s anything to get worked up about. To me, it’s in the same category as Jacob Elordi or any organized religion: I have no strong opinions either way, I just don’t need to be told why it’s great all the time. Perhaps this is why I was dubious at first glance about the return of two pizza-inspired watches by Studio Underd0g and Time+Tide: the Burnt Pepper0ni and the Classic Cheese. Following the first pair of pizza watches released in 2024, this new iteration builds on that cult following with updated designs that lean into the theme without losing the brand language that has come to define Studio Underd0g. First, the...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy was released at this year's Watches & Wonders to nothing short of acclaim by enthusiasts. Not just a fresh color, this is a redesigned Tudor Black Bay 58, essentially from top to bottom. What you’re looking at is the next generation of everybody’s favorite Black Bay size, and it debuts in a color you simply cannot ignore, and one tied to Tudor history. The Burgundy Black Bay 58 took the burgundy color usage of Black Bays from the past while leaning into the bright color scheme much more boldly than before. Rather than just adding another bezel color, Tudor decided to make the whole dial and front of the case a study in this shade of red. Where the past few years have seen Tudor experiment with satin-finished dials in its hardcore sports watches, from the Pelagos to the Black Bay 54, the 58 range has been steadfast in its use of matte or textured dial surfaces. That all changed with this iteration, as we get a punchy, sunburst burgundy dial color. You might think this is an infusion of modernity in a model known to harken back to the past, but it isn’t. It’s just harkening to a different moment in time – to a watch that Tudor never technically released. Indeed, that would be a certain 1990s Tudor Submariner Ref. 79190 prototype that had a similar red bezel/red dial combination. And while that watch never made it to the production stage, it heavily influenced the brand’s decision when it released the very first Black Bay with a bu...
SJX Watches
Acclaimed director Francis Ford Coppola, best known for films like The Godfather and Apocalypse Now, is selling the watch that bears his name, the F.P. Journe FFC – it is FFC’s FFC. Mr Coppola’s personal FFC prototype is expected to be the top lot at Phillips’ New York auction taking place in December. The timing of the auction is opportune for Mr Coppola, who funded his latest – and arguably most ambitious – film, Megalopolis by selling a vineyard and then borrowing against his other holdings in the California wine industry. Against a US$120 million budget, Megalopolis grossed only $15 million, and now the legendary director is auctioning off much of his prized watch collection. Initial thoughts Positioned at the top of the F.P. Journe collection alongside the Sonnerie Souveraine and Astronomic Souveraine, each FFC is engraved with the customer’s name. In this case, that name is Francis Ford Coppola. That makes it arguably the FFC to own, even surpassing the unique tantalum example made for Only Watch 2021, which sold for CHF4.5 million. In this context, the estimate of over US$1 million seems conservative. The unique FFC made for Only Watch in 2021. F.P. Journe rarely sells prototypes. Only a handful of the brand’s prototypes have ever emerged for sale publicly, and all of those were originally sold by Mr Journe well before the firm achieved the success it does today. F.P. Journe simply doesn’t need to sell prototypes anymore. The FFC, and Mr Coppola...
Video
At the time of recording, the exchange rate was 1 GBP = 1.33 USD. Please note that exchange rates fluctuate, so the conversion may differ when you view this video. Always check current exchange rates for the most accu...
Worn & Wound
We’re several years deep into the era of collaborative, limited edition watch releases, and while a lot of the hype has subsided around some of these drops, there’s no sign that the overall strategy is shifting anytime soon. Brands both large and small are still keen to slap partner logos on dials and casebacks, and draw parallels between watches and, well, you name it. Obviously, the automotive world is ripe for these collaborations, and is the window through which a trio of new Seikos come into our lives. Three limited edition references made in partnership with Datsun are the headline here, but in a smart move, Seiko is simultaneously announcing corresponding regular production models that riff on the same themes without all the branding. So there’s something here for the Datsun enthusiast (of which we know there are many) as well as those that are more inclined to shun this type of commercial cross-polination and just want their watch to be a watch and not an exercise in remembering a very specific link to a carmaker’s history. The premise for all these watches (or rather, for the limited editions) is Seiko’s relationship with Datsun, which dates back to the early 1970s when Seiko supported the 240Z in races across the world. Most notably, Seiko was a sponsor of the #11 car that won the East-African Safari Rally, a 6,200 kilometer race that is generally regarded as one of the most challenging on the international circuit. All of the watches discussed here...
Hodinkee
From the oil-filled 5B diver to the most playful Type 1 yet and beyond.
Worn & Wound
We’re nearing the end of the year, and being the type of person who is already keenly interested in list making as a form of assessment, I’ve naturally started to think about the watches, brands, and new releases that have left the biggest mark in 2023. For me personally, there probably isn’t a more important release or addition to my own collection than the Arcanaut Arc II Fordite, a watch I’ve made no secret of my admiration for many times over. Arcanaut looms large for me as an independent brand that is accessible, contemporary in their aesthetic, and willing to experiment, all things I put a high value on when it comes to new watches. Their latest releases are something of an extension of the D’Arc Matter Colors Collection we told you about a few months ago, and lean heavily into the brand’s commitment to experimenting with materials in new and interesting ways. First up is the Havender, which takes the Arc II platform and gives it a dial in a gorgeous shade of light purple. But this isn’t simply a coat of paint on a base dial – according to Arcanaut, the Havender represents the brand’s most ambitious composite dial to date. The source of the dial and its unique color comes from a surprising place: Scandinavian mussel shells. Part of the ethos of the Arcanaut brand is to source components locally whenever possible, and brand co-owner James Thompson saw an interesting opportunity via a mussel farm located close to Aracanaut’s headquarters. Once a...
Time+Tide
Sometimes, hearing about a new brand named after someone you’ve never heard of, some alarm bells ring. It’s a fairly classic trick used by companies to instil a sense of heritage for watches that are designed out of a catalogue and mass-manufactured for profit. Oliver Gallaugher couldn’t be further away from that stereotype, proudly attaching … ContinuedThe post The Oliver Gallaugher Deep Space sports a star-struck dial and some fine movement finishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The most sophisticated type of calendar watch, a perpetual calendar is endowed with a mechanical “memory” that enables it to record and display the time, day, date, month, and often the moon-phase, accurately for many years. The complex movement in a perpetual calendar compensates for the length of every month, including February in both leap years and non-leap-years, meaning that it should not need adjusting until the year 2100, which is the next annum in which the Gregorian calendar’s leap-year cycle is disrupted (it will be the first year since 1900 that is exactly divisible by 100 but not by 400, and thus not a leap year). As you'd expect, perpetual calendar watches (called "quantième perpétuel" in French) are extremely complicated in their mechanics and design, representing one of the highest pinnacles of high horology and priced accordingly. Throughout the modern wristwatch industry, only a relative handful of brands have mastered the art of the perpetual calendar: we showcase some of them, and their most impressive perpetual calendar timepieces, here. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Introduced in 2021, the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar adopts the new approach taken to perpetual calendar design that the Saxon maison established in 2012 with the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar. In typical Lange fashion, the technical approach taken is complex in the service of user-friendly practicality. Its in-house, self-winding movement, Caliber L021.3, ...
Video
At the time of recording, the exchange rate was 1 GBP = 1.33 USD. Please note that exchange rates fluctuate, so the conversion may differ when you view this video. Always check current exchange rates for the most accu...
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