Deployant
Roundup of horological events over the last month
Roundup of horological events over the month ending October 18, 2015. With highlights from IWC, Kevin Seah, HYT, Andersen Genève and Tudor.
Results for Universal Genève
491 articles · 99 videos found · page 19 of 20
Deployant
Revolution
Cartier’s Power Watch Of The 2010’s
The Rotonde de Cartier is one of the newer models (or better to say not vintage models) in the Cartier collection and dates back to 2006, when Cartier introduced this new mens model, as a ‘Time Only’ with Grande date. At the time it was introduced, the collection needed a universal case for the men’s […]
Revolution
Deep Time
The Louis Moinet Vertalis Tourbillon “Red Stromatolite” Whatever your spiritual beliefs, there is near-universal agreement that the spirit is but a brief tenant in the body, and even today, to live out one’s biblical assurance of threescore and ten years is to consider oneself relatively lucky. We unhappy mortals, therefore, are like to surround ourselves […]
Deployant
Kari Voutilainen Minute Repeater MR10
Just pictures of the piece unique Minute Repeater from Kari Voutilainen. This piece was an entry to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Complicated Watch catagory.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Watches We Personally Love But Would Not Recommend
We all have watches we absolutely love but would hesitate to recommend to someone else. That might sound contradictory at first, but spend enough time in this hobby, and it starts to make sense. Not every great watch is universally great. Some require a certain mindset, a specific wrist, or simply a willingness to embrace […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watches We Personally Love But Would Not Recommend to read the full article.
Video
Did Tudor Disappoint in 2026? What’s Still Coming (Big Block + Black Bay)
After the mixed reactions to Tudor’s 100-year anniversary releases at Watches and Wonders Geneva, the conversation has split the watch community in two. Were the novelties underwhelming, or was this actually a stron...
SJX Watches
Roaring Twenties Marque Niton is Born Again
A long defunct Geneva watchmaker, Niton has been revived and is getting off the ground with the Prima, a historically-inspired jump hour watch. With some serious tricks up its sleeve – the proprietary calibre is surprisingly excellent – the Prima might just be the right new-meets-old infusion the watch market needs. Initial thoughts Bringing back defunct but once illustrious watch manufactures is not a sure thing, and Niton might be more challenging than most given the lack of name recognition. The brand, however, did have a glorious, if short, history. The introductory model of the recently revived brand is the Prima. While the watch takes its inspiration from pieces made in the 1930s, the overall impression is more evocative of retro-futuristic 1960s. Rounded typography, thick indices, and a concentric pattern on the central minutes disk all make for a look that’s equally comforting and refined. Arguably the best surprise is the in-house NHS01 inside the Prima. A square movement developed in-house, the ambitious, hand-wound NHS01 integrates the jump hour complication with the in-line minutes disk and small seconds display, all while bearing the coveted Poinçon de Genève. Seeing a small independent brand earn the demanding hallmark for its first run of pieces is nothing short of amazing. Both versions of the Prima sit at under the CHF50,000 mark, which places the model in the upper echelons of pricy independent time-only watches. However, one might argue the P...
Worn & Wound
Interview: Sylvain Berneron on Building a Brand, and Rethinking Modern Watchmaking
Every few years, a new independent hits the scene with something that hits just the right notes to get all the factions of the watch world vibrating at the same frequency. However, no recent newcomer has managed to unite the watch echo chamber the way Swiss independent Berneron has. When Berneron unveiled their debut offering, the Mirage, in 2023, it was universally lauded as the most intriguing and refreshing new watch seen in ages. The Mirage was a legitimately unique take on upscale watchmaking, with a striking aesthetic and design narrative as unexpected as its asymmetrical shape and wildly ambitious bespoke movement. The Mirage’s styling was initially met with comparisons to the Cartier Crash, but the reality is its melted case shape was an elegant solution for housing the watch’s impressive mechanics–a case shrink-wrapped around a new caliber that was designed from scratch, free from the rules of traditional movement design. The Mirage was a helluva of a breakout hit; it had mystique, it was technically impressive, and it was different without resorting to arbitrary design choices. The Mirage’s success would be difficult to replicate, but with the Quantième, Berneron has both side-steped the sophomore slump and cemented the reputation of its founder and Creative Director Sylvain Berneron as a true visionary and a generational talent. The Quantième applies Berneron’s virtuosic technicality to a watch that embraces a more traditional look than the Mir...
Monochrome
First Look – The new Petermann Bédat Reference 1825, The Indie Brand’s Take on the Three-Hand Watch
Petermann Bédat is an independent watchmaking brand based in Renens, near Lausanne. The founders, Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, first met at the Geneva Watchmaking School. After gaining experience at prestigious houses such as A. Lange & Söhne, Harry Winston and Andersen Genève, or restoring vintage timepieces, they decided to create their own brand. The […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Review
Is there a contemporary field watch as beloved and versatile as the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical? At this point the illustrious military history of the Khaki Field watch has been thoroughly explored (and if you’re not familiar with it, our resident historian Mark Bernardo has written an encyclopedic guide here). In short, Hamilton produced over a million watches for the United States military during World War II with its field watch in specific garnering praise for its universally consistent quality. This predecessor to the Khaki Field was a 34mm-wide field watch done in a chrome-plated metal case with radium lume dials and a manual-wind Caliber 987 movement. The modern Hamilton Watch Company was bought by the Swatch Group in 1974 with much of the production already having moved to Switzerland in 1969. The brand’s reassertion as a bonafide, authentic maker of military tool watches with historical provenance proliferated as an entire collection under the “Khaki” umbrella. While it was still producing watches for actual military units in the 1980s and ‘90s, Hamilton had done well by marketing to civilians once again in the wake of the Vietnam War. These early post-war civilian Hamilton Khaki watches were co-branded with retailers like Brookstone, Orvis, and L.L. Bean. This was also the time during which the “Khaki” logo began popping up on their dials. In 2018, Hamilton released the Khaki Field Mechanical which has gone on to be one of the most popular and b...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Exquisite Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition - A Certified Dream Watch
As you might know, Chopard produces watches with two distinct certifications. In its Geneva atelier, the brand creates L.U.C timepieces that bear the engraved Poinçon de Genève. The Geneva Seal is primarily concerned with the aesthetic quality and craftsmanship of the movement. While watches bearing it must also meet specific, strict chronometric requirements, the sternest […] Visit Hands-On With The Exquisite Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition - A Certified Dream Watch to read the full article.
Video
Watches & Wonders 2026: The Good, The Bad & The Ugly… (My Honest Take)
Charlie shares his honest thoughts on Watches & Wonders Geneva 2026. In this video, Charlie breaks down the biggest new releases from the show, highlighting the standout pieces, the surprises, and the models that didn...
Fratello
Introducing: An Icy New White-Dial Variant Of The 39mm Longines Legend Diver
The 39mm Longines Legend Diver is one of those rare watches that all of us at Fratello HQ like. While most watches spark at least some kind of debate among Fratello editors, the Legend Diver is universally admired. So when Longines releases a new dial variant, we pay attention, especially when it is a crisp […] Visit Introducing: An Icy New White-Dial Variant Of The 39mm Longines Legend Diver to read the full article.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Hidden Innovation in the Urwerk UR-150 “Scorpion”
Urwerk is universally known for its unique approach to time-telling, usually marrying the classic concept of wandering hours with avant-garde styling and reinvented mechanics. The brand’s signature brand of watchmaking is exemplified by the UR-150 “Scorpion”, which demonstrates the brand’s ability to reinvent the wheel in displaying the time. The UR-150 is a time-only watch, showing just the hours and minutes, but with a technical execution that is sophisticated and elaborate. Nicknamed “Scorpion” due to its crisp retrograde hour hand that brings to mind the desert creature’s swift sting, the UR-150 features a central carousel that creeps slowly over the course of one hour, only for the hour hand to snap back and reset with a lively action at the top of each hour. The concept of satellite and retrograde hours is not new to Urwerk – in fact the idea dates back to the Opus V – but in the UR-150 the mechanics underlying the time display have been refined, upgraded, and elaborated upon. Dissecting the time display module of the UR-150 is a fascinating process that speaks to the talent of the watchmakers and constructors at Urwerk who conceived these radical time displays. The mechanics are inventive, especially in the interconnected nature of the various sub-assemblies ranging from the retrograde to the satellite discs. The construction also incorporates finer engineering details like main shaft that supports two concentric but independent axes of the carrier...
Teddy Baldassarre
The 15 Best Chinese Watch Brands: A Complete Guide
At this point it’s a cliché to even mention how outdated and prehistoric a universally negative or condescending view of “Made in China” is in the world of watchmaking. Some of the most interesting new watch brands, and a consistently growing roster of some of the most talented and resourceful living watchmakers, are establishing reputations matching, or indeed exceeding, those out of Switzerland, Germany, and Japan. In this article I have assembled just 15 of these names, some of which have been around for decades and some of which are just coming on the scene. For your reading ease, I’ve broken these down into three categories: the established brands; the watchmakers; and the upstarts. Let’s start with the Chinese watch brand most of you already know… The Established Brands Seagull Tianjin Seagull Watch Group, aka Seagull, recently celebrated its 70th anniversary, and it’s not hard to see why this giant is the most well known and prolific Chinese mechanical-watch producer. The brand made China’s first Air Force Chronograph, which has been reissued as the iconic Seagull 1963 chronograph, a watch that still represents tremendous value at around $300. But it’s not just all affordable stuff these days. Last year, I wrote about the Seagull Split-Second Chronograph, calling it one of the best values in watchmaking at $3,200. Beyond the basic chronograph and this rattrapante, Seagull has added tourbillons, perpetual calendars, and minute repeaters to its repe...
Hodinkee
Business News: All Of The 2024 GPHG Winners And Our Quick Reactions
Live from Geneva! It's the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève.
Monochrome
First Look – Compact and Colourful, Here’s the new Nomos Club Sport Neomatik 34
Few watch designs offer the freedom to create a series of nearly identical-looking pieces that remain universally appealing, regardless of case size or dial colour. Nomos timepieces, defined by a beautiful simplicity rooted in Bauhaus principles, showcase this versatility nicely… Take for instance the Club Sport series. The sporty line was first introduced in a […]
Video
Fratello Talks Watches And Wonders 2026 Debrief
Another Watches and Wonders is in the books, and as always, it takes a moment to process everything. Between the main fair at Palexpo, meetings across Geneva, and visits to the various satellite events around the city...
Worn & Wound
Just In Time For Summer: Five Divers Under $1,000
Few kinds of watches are as universally beloved as the dive watch. For myriad reasons – durability, legibility, history, and more – the classic dive watch, for essentially its entire history, has been a smashing success. We think it’s easy to see why: diver’s watches capture a sense of adventure and (mostly) anachronistic utility that still feels cool today. Their aesthetic has never really gone out of style, and there is no arguing that a solid dive watch is exactly what a lot of enthusiasts think of when they imagine what a “nice watch” is. Like with EDC gear or sports cars, there’s a sense of enjoyment of knowing that our tools are more than up to the task. Thankfully, an entry into the dive watch game doesn’t cost an arm and a leg; in fact, here are five dive watches under $1,000 that we would strap on any day for life’s adventures. Without further ado, let’s, um, dive in. Few kinds of watches are as universally beloved as the dive watch. For myriad reasons – durability, legibility, history, and more – the classic dive watch, for essentially its entire history, has been a smashing success. We think it’s easy to see why: diver’s watches capture a sense of adventure and (mostly) anachronistic utility that still feels cool today. Their aesthetic has never really gone out of style, and there is no arguing that a solid dive watch is exactly what a lot of enthusiasts think of when they imagine what a “nice watch” is. Like with EDC gear or spor...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Patek Philippe Cloisonné World Time Ref. 605 HU DE “World Map”
One of the highlights this coming spring auction season in Geneva is prime example of a rare watch at Antiquorum. Consigned by the family of the original owner, the Patek Philippe World Time Cloisonné “World” ref. 605 HU DE in pink gold is both in fine condition and boasting a possibly unique combination of features, namely a pink gold case, a “world” motif cloisonné dial in unusual colours, and early “observatory” style hands. Produced for some three decades from about 1937 to the 1950s, the ref. 605 HU (short for heure universelles, or “universal time”) is a quintessential Louis Cottier-type world time; its wristwatch counterpart was the ref. 2523 HU. Just over 80 were made over the production run, with about two-thirds in yellow gold and the rest in pink gold. They were made by Louis Cottier in his Geneva workshop in an artisanal manner, explaining the variances across examples. Most were equipped with conventional metal dials, including rare examples in pink or black, but from the 1940s onwards, Patek Philippe began selling the ref. 605 HU with cloisonné enamel dials. Less than 20 were made with cloisonné dials, most depicting map motifs of some sort. A handful, maybe just two, featured figurative dials, including the ref. 605 HU in the Patek Philippe Museum with the Greek sea god Neptune on the dial (that Antiquorum sold in 1989). This example is rare for having a map of the entire world – only two others are known – as well as being in pink go...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On with the New Hublot Novelties at Watches & Wonders
Over the course of three years visiting Geneva with the Worn & Wound team, a handful of traditions have begun to take shape. We carve out a night for a team dinner at Jeck’s, a hole-in-the-wall Singaporean restaurant that we stumbled upon in year one, and is consistently the best meal of the entire trip. We cover Tudor first, every year. I am in the habit of buying a Swatch at the Geneva airport on my way home. And every year, I have a meeting with Hublot, and I write a breathless article about the weird and wonderful stuff I’m shown. It’s consistently the meeting that underscores the “Wonders” bit about the week more than any other. When I first took on the task of writing about the new Hublot novelties at Watches & Wonders, it felt like a defense of sorts. Of the brand, the watches, and even our decision to cover them. I think, thankfully, we’ve all moved on a bit from a time when Hublot was just universally lambasted as a loud and unserious brand for loud and unserious people. They have never really been that in my opinion, but there was a time when the watches, if not really interrogated, could have given you that impression on a surface level. Hublot is covered differently now, and in recent years I’m glad to see them getting their flowers from a watch media that previously skipped them entirely or openly derided them. There are a variety of reasons for that, but a key one has to be that Hublot has, perhaps, calmed down a bit at the entry point in th...
Monochrome
Introducing – Montblanc Goes Deep-Diving with the Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810m
Montblanc introduced its white star logo in 1913, an emblem which has graced the caps of its fountain pens and, later, the crowns of its watches. While the logo is universally recognised, some folk might not know that it represents a stylised bird’s eye view of the snow-capped peak of Mont Blanc and its six […]
Monochrome
Video – The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox with Panda Dial (incl. Video)
The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox 39mm reference, drawing inspiration from the iconic 1960s model, the Heuer Carrera 7753 SN, introduces a universally beloved panda-style chronograph dial. This latest addition to the series is the first to offer a bracelet option, a significant departure from the previous strap-only models. The new TAG Heuer Carrera […]
Video
Watches & Wonders 2026: The Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio Diver 300 & Mystic Waterfall SBGZ011
Grand Seiko brought an impressive line-up of new watches to Geneva for Watches & Wonders 2026, and we discuss two of the highlights with Frédéric Bondoux, CEO of Grand Seiko Europe. First up is the brand-new Spring...
SJX Watches
Daniel Roth Unveils Tourbillon Souscription and DR001 Calibre
With Daniel Roth’s revival having become official last year, the brand has just taken the covers off the prototype of the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription at LVMH Watch Week 2024. Retaining the style and dimensions of its 1990s inspiration, the Tourbillon Souscription is, however, an entirely new creation in mechanical terms, with the DR001 movement inside having been developed specifically for it by Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Initial thoughts The prototype of the Tourbillon Souscription arrives with subtle refinements compared to the images released last year. The aesthetics largely replicate the design of the 1990s originals, which was the brand’s goal from the beginning, at least for this opening act in its revival. Where the Tourbillon Souscription does better than the original is in the execution and mechanics. The guilloche dial is evidently top quality and also on a solid-gold base. More notably, the recessed area around the tourbillon, which is the actually the base plate, is finished with Côtes de Genève. On the originals this area was unfinished except for a rudimentary micro-blasting. But the calibre within is a more substantive achievement. The DR001 movement was conceived for this watch (though perhaps borrowing elements from LFT’s existing constructions) with aesthetics and traditional detailing in mind, explaining elements like the black-polished steel cock and linear winding click. In contrast, the originals relie...
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces a Slightly Smaller Version of their Popular C63 Sealander GMT
Christopher Ward, the UK-based watch company, has never shied away from a “big umbrella” approach when it comes to making price-accessible timepieces that don’t compromise on style or quality. Their latest C63 Sealander 36 GMT is no exception. Responding to the need for a universally wearable – and affordable – watch, Christopher Ward has released the C63 Sealander 36 GMT, a diminutive cousin to the larger 39mm C63 Sealander GMT. While this may be a condensed version of the Sealander, it’s no less elegant, retaining all of the clean aesthetics of a Christopher Ward watch, such as its finely brushed surfaces and polished chamfers. True to the Sealander’s ‘Go Anywhere, Do Everything’ mantra, the 36 GMT boasts an ultra-legible dial adorned with applied indices, a twin-flags logo, a symmetrical 6 o’clock date, and brushed and polished hands filled with Super-LumiNova®. The GMT hand, featuring a vibrant orange accent, adds a sporty contrast to the White, Black, and Dragonfly Blue dial choices. The C63 Sealander 36 GMT runs on a Sellita SW330-2 GMT movement, which promises an impressive 56-hour power reserve. As a GMT watch, you can set the fourth hand separately to the time zone of your choice. The C63 Sealander 36 GMT is available now via Christopher Ward’s website, for a price starting at £905. Images from this post: The post Christopher Ward Introduces a Slightly Smaller Version of their Popular C63 Sealander GMT appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
The Roundup: Sporty Watches, Stylish Storage, and Good Old US-Made Gear
The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. This week, we have an incredible lineup of timepieces featuring some that draw inspiration from the past and others that are pushing the boundaries of affordable GMT watches. We also highlight a universally useful accessory and close with a special knife that can do it all. Grab a coffee, pop a squat, and enjoy this week’s edition of the Roundup. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. This week, we have an incredible lineup of timepieces featuring some that draw inspiration from the past and others that are pushing the boundaries of affordable GMT watches. We also highlight a universally useful accessory and close with a special knife that can do it all. Grab a coffee, pop a squat, and enjoy this week’s edition of the Roundup. The post The Roundup: Sporty Watches, Stylish Storage, and Good Old US-Made Gear appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Teddy Baldassarre
Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Review
Raymond Weil, founded in 1975 by its eponym and now owned and operated by the Bernheim family, is one of only a handful of independently owned Swiss watchmaking companies, alongside historic, prestigious maisons like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. The Geneva-based company, however, occupies a different niche than those two high-horology powerhouses, having firmly established itself as a purveyor of “affordable luxury” - producing well-designed watches with wide appeal that nevertheless rarely gain attention in the upper echelons of horological connoisseurship. That all changed in 2023, however, when the sublimely refined design of the brand’s Millesime Small Seconds model took the coveted Challenge award in the year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève (GPHG), the watch world’s equivalent of the Oscars. With its sober but meticulously embellished sector dial and slender case, the watch represents a throwback to a style of understatedly elegant dress watch that few seem to be making anymore. I had a chance to wear one for a couple weeks for a hands-on review. (To get Teddy's video take on the watch on our dedicated Reviews channel, click here.) Case: The round stainless steel case of the Millesime (the term comes from the world of fine wine, and appropriately translates to “vintage”) will settle perfectly into many enthusiasts’ sweet spot, at 39mm in diameter, and its thickness of just under 11mm (10.9mm, to be super-precise) will ensure that it set...
SJX Watches
Review: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Dragon”
Arriving just as the Dragon year begins in February, the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Dragon” is the latest illustration of the Geneva brand’s artisanal and technical capabilities, with a hand-engraved dragon sculpture on a grand feu enamel dial and an in-house calibre that indicates the time and calendar on discs. The “Year of the Dragon” is the final chapter in the brand’s Chinese Zodiac collection, an annual series of limited editions that began in 2012 with the rabbit. With the Chinese zodiac made up of a repeating 12-year cycle – with each year represented by an animal – the series reaches its conclusion with this dragon edition, which like its predecessors is available in either pink gold or platinum. Initial thoughts Dragon-themed watches have already started to proliferate with the incoming Year of the Dragon, simply because the dragon has the most universal appeal amongst all of the zodiac animals. It carries desirable symbolism across East Asia, as opposed to say, the rodent or pig, which have a niche audience. So the appeal of a dragon watch is arguably less about the motif, which is now common, but the execution. And here the Metiers d’Art “Year of the Dragon” excels in both presentation and technique. I’ve always been fond of Vacheron Constantin’s quadruple-disc display because it is both logical and attractive. The display makes sense because it leaves majority of the dial free fo...
Video
Watches And Wonders 2026 – Fratello Day 3 Highlights
The Fratello team is in Geneva for Watches and Wonders 2026. They'll be bringing you daily updates from the show, including personal highlights and some impressions on the fairy's biggest releases.