Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A 1960s Vulcain Cricket, A Cartier Tank Asymètrique Ref. 2488, And A Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Ref. E168
Your weekly round-up of watches from around the 'net is back!
Results for Big Bang
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Hodinkee
Time+Tide
Marlon Brando’s Apocalypse Now Rolex to be auctioned by Phillips
Marlon Brando’s Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675, worn by him on the set of Apocalypse Now, is to be auctioned by Phillips Watches Department. The story was broken by the New York Times, with the provenance of the piece being traced from Brando, who in 1995 gave the watch to his adopted daughter Petra Brando Fischer, … ContinuedThe post Marlon Brando’s Apocalypse Now Rolex to be auctioned by Phillips appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Trust in the Tool Watch
As you might have noticed (here, here and here), I’m quite interested in bulletproof watches being used in situations with bullets (figuratively). I enjoy, as much as the next guy, reading about the (somewhat theoretical) limits of well-made watches, if it be temperature, altitude or water pressure. But what I love even more is reading … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Trust in the Tool Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Genus GNS 1 Wristwatch
While it’s a new brand that just made its debut, Genus is founded on the watchmaking talent of an industry insider who has spent a lifetime working on complications. Its first watch is the GNS 1 that tells the time with an ultra-exotic complication with the minutes travelling across the dial like a train. Conceptually the GNS 1 harks back to the burst of creativity that started in the early 2000s, when watchmakers went all out with imaginative complications to display the hours and minutes. This was the heyday of the Harry Winston Opus series and the birth of brands like MB&F; and Urwerk. The brand Genus was founded by entrepreneur Catherine Henry and Sébastien Billières, founder of GMTI, a specialist watchmaking workshop. The son of a watchmaker, Mr Billières started his career at Roger Dubuis in 1999, followed by a stint at Urwerk. In 2011, he set up GMTI, which specialises in primarily in assembly and servicing of complicated movements for major watch brands. Now staffed by 25 watchmakers, GMTI’s repertoire is diverse, ranging from tourbillon movements bearing the Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal, to time-only movements produced on an industrial scale. Telling the time According to Mr Billières, the GNS 1 is the realisation of his long-held ambition of creating his own watch, after spending his career doing it for others. The GNS 1 is essentially an exceptionally avant-garde display of the hours and minutes. Even when static the face is impressive...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #134 – Watch Spotting in Italy and Shooting The Shit
We're back from our break! And more important, Mike's back from Italy and he's sharing what it was like falling for a Roman taxi scam, breaking the window in his AirBnB, losing his passport, and (obviously) what watches he saw over there.
Time+Tide
The inky depths of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in black ceramic
Editor’s note: this watch is now available with a full ceramic bracelet. Read more here. The other day I was spending some time at my local Blancpain stockist, and I found my eyes consistently being drawn to the Bathyscaphe (which was only a little awkward as I was meant to be checking out Blancpain’s 2019 … ContinuedThe post The inky depths of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in black ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Original sin – the Bulgari Octo L’Originale in black and gold
Regular readers will register precisely zero surprise when I state that the entirety of Time+Tide are raging fans of Bulgari’s distinctive Octo - but, if we’re being completely real (and when are we not?), then it’s the Octo Finissimo that attracts the lion’s share of our ardour. But it’s not the only arrow in that … ContinuedThe post Original sin – the Bulgari Octo L’Originale in black and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: The Cars And Watches Of American Icon Briggs Cunningham
A look back at one of America's greatest sportsmen and the cars and watches he called his own.
SJX Watches
Sotheby’s Presents Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Auction
To mark the 50th anniversary of the lunar landing – and the Omega Speedmaster’s moment of greatness – Sotheby’s has put together a Speedmaster-only auction that’ll take place in New York on July 19, 2019. A compact sale of just 50 lots, Omega Speedmaster: To the Moon and Back is dominated by vintage Speedmasters, including examples of every mainstream reference, meaning there is something for every budget – the most affordable watch in the sale is lot 31, a Speedmaster ref. 145.022 with a low estimate of just US$3000. Notably, all the watches in the sale have been “vetted by the manufacture”, and are accompanied by archive extracts. And the estimates are generally modest, reflecting the fact that the watches are mostly in good or strong condition, as opposed to being mint or “new old stock”. The top lot is an example of the first Speedmaster ever, the ref. 2915-1. Appearing quite worn but honest in the catalogue photos, it is lot 10 and has an estimate of US$150,000-200,000. And the watch is one of two ref. 2915-1 in the sale, with the other having a lower estimate in keeping with its condition. Lot 10 – Speedmaster ref. 2915-1. Photo – Sotheby’s Other “straight lug” Speedmasters in the sale include a few 2998s, as well as examples of the uncommon 105.002 and the more common 105.003 “Ed White”. With a lower estimate than the 2915-1 but but probably more interesting is the Speedmaster “Alaska III” prototype from 1978. One...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: An introduction to the watch internet
Despite what many may think, the birth of the watch internet happened a long time before Instagram was around. Back in those days (in an almost Grecian purity), the forum was king, with moderators wielding the sword of truth, slaying inaccurate idiots with all of the mercy Zeus was known for. These forums, most popularly … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: An introduction to the watch internet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: It might be the biggest, but the Apple Watch hasn’t crushed the Swiss
Fun fact: Last year the Apple Watch shipped 22.5 million units. In the same period, the Swiss watch industry exported 23.7 million watches. Scary stuff if you’re a Swiss watch brand. Especially scary if your business is rooted in quartz watches - the market sector that’s being most aggressively eroded by the Apple onslaught. This … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: It might be the biggest, but the Apple Watch hasn’t crushed the Swiss appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Ceramic One “Only Watch”
Continuing the tradition of one of a kind dive watches for Only Watch that started in 2015, Tudor has just unveiled the Black Bay Ceramic One. Entirely clad in matte black but composed of several different materials, the Black Bay Ceramic One is starkly different from any other Tudor dive watch. The 41mm case is made of ceramic, while the bezel is black-coated titanium fitted with a ceramic bezel insert. Both the case back and crown and black-coated steel, but the back is unusual – it’s the only Tudor watch with a display back aside from the little loved North Flag. The sapphire back reveals the MT5602 movement, a “manufacture” calibre with 70-hour power reserve and silicon hairspring. The dial is all-black to match, with the markings and text printed in glossy back to distinguish them from the matte black dial surface. The hands and hour markers are filled with black Super-Luminova, which will glow green in the dark, albeit dimly. And the strap is rubber, but lined on the top with matte black alligator, which is the same construction as the rubber-calf strap found on the recently launched Black Bay P01. The Black Bay Ceramic One (ref. M7921/001CN) has an estimate of 4,500-5,500 Swiss francs. If past Tudor watches made for Only Watch are anything to go by, it will blow right past the estimate straight out of the gate and probably finish just over 300,000 Swiss francs. It’ll be sold on November 9, 2019 at Christie’s in Geneva. Visit onlywatch.com for the ...
Deployant
Review: Casual Chic – The Chopard L.U.C Quattro
This year, Chopard introduces what is arguably the most laid-back iteration of the L.U.C Quattro thus far - and it's solely to do with its new dial.
Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Six alternative high end sporty watches to the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1a
We explore six watches to blow the stash of money in your piggy bank fund in anticipation of a PP Nautilus 5711/1a, as you are possibly never gonna get one.
Time+Tide
Why I lie about the number of watches I own
Editor’s note: Cam wrote this snappy little opinion piece for us last year, and you know what - we still don’t know how many watches he owns. More than two, and less than 20 … we think. I think we’ve all found ourselves in a similar situation. You’re at a BBQ, surrounded by friends and … ContinuedThe post Why I lie about the number of watches I own appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Peculiar economics of the vintage watch market
The watch auction market has hit serious momentum over the last four or five years, with record-breaking results being produced every season. While a portion of the soaring prices can be attributed to macro factors - such as democratised information on vintage watches through the explosion of sites that cover the topic - this isn’t the whole … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Peculiar economics of the vintage watch market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
A Tonic for Collectors - Vacheron Constantin to the Rescue
Imagine being able to buy vintage pieces in factory-fresh condition, with a warranty. You can, with Vacheron Constantin’s Les Collectionneurs.
SJX Watches
Ventura Returns with the V-Matic Ego
Watch collectors who were around in the late 1990s and early 2000s would remember Ventura. It specialised in – literally – design watches. All its timepieces were created by noted industrial designers, including Flemming Bo Hansen and more frequently, Hannes Wettstein, who also designed the Nomos Zurich. The house style was sleek, pared back, slightly Scandinavian, but also distinguished by unusual materials – Ventura made liberal use of surfaced hardened titanium (Titanox) and steel (Durinox), a great novelty at the time. The Ventura V-Matic Ego remake But the brand made a pivot into high-end, self-winding electronic watches in the early 2000s, which unsurprisingly ended in Ventura going bust. Now Ventura is being resurrected by its former owner, UK-based watch importer Zeon Ltd (that’s in turn owned by a Hong Kong watch manufacturer), in partnership with Stephan Hürlemann, the designer who took over Wettstein’s studio after his death. I liked very much what Ventura was doing back in the day – the combination of design and materials was unique – but the original watches were surprisingly expensive, particularly by the standards of the time. The new remakes manage to reproduce the original design in a similar alloy, at a notably affordable price. Designer watches for less The revived Ventura sticks to a tried and tested sales formula: direct to the consumer via crowdfunding platform Kickstarter, making the new Ventura watches notably affordable, s...
WatchAdvice
Breitling Navitimer 01 – 43mm Edition Review
“An all-time favourite among pilots and aeronautical enthusiasts since 1952” – Breitling If you have ever been on the look out for a pilot’s watch, whether being a pilot yourself or just having pure admiration for the workings of pilot watch then the Breitling Navitimer has to be up there at the top of the list. Breitling has a variation of models in the Navitimer range, with sizes ranging from 38mm all the way to 48mm. The model we have in our hands today is the Navitimer 01 version in 43mm diameter. This Navitimer is the previous edition to the current Navitimer 1 B01 Chronograph in 43mm diameter. The two models are relatively unchanged with the new model getting a facelift logo on the dial and the addition of a sapphire crystal case back for the first time on a 43mm to showcase the B01 movement. At first glance the dial does look super busy. But there’s a reason why everything is the way it is. When the Navitimer was launched in the 1950’s it was considered one of the most practical tool watches made available for Pilots. It’s no wonder then that the Navitimer was endorsed as the official timekeeping instrument of the “Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA)”. With only a few minor updates the navitimer has remained unchanged, with Breitling even going on to claim that this is the only wristwatch that has a chronograph function that is in continuous production for more than 50 years. So what exactly is the features present in the Navitimer d...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Orient Kamasu
Orient is back with a bite.
Time+Tide
The ultimate watch glossary – the intermediate edition, feat. wheels, pinions and more
Editor’s note: Last week we kicked off our series on the ultimate watch glossary - well, now it’s back and slightly more complex. Read on if you want to know what really makes your watch tick … Mechanical watch, manual or automatic There are two types of mechanical watch, and the difference comes down to … ContinuedThe post The ultimate watch glossary – the intermediate edition, feat. wheels, pinions and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco 1979-1989 Limited Edition
The Monaco is back with a red-hot LE.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Rolex drought shows no sign of easing
In yet another example of water being wet, desirable Rolex models are not easy to get. And while the issues with Rolex stock should not be news to anyone reading this, this analysis from WatchPro’s managing editor Rob Corder is a somewhat more evidence-based analysis than the usual feverish hyperbole. Corder uses the tried and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Rolex drought shows no sign of easing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Eterna and the Kon-Tiki Voyage Across the South Pacific
72 years after the legendary Kon-Tiki voyage, Revolution looks back at the Eterna watches that crossed the Pacific with the intrepid explorers.
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: A Sunken Submariner Found 14 Months Later (And It Still Works)
A two-tone Sub braves the deep and comes back without missing a beat.
Time+Tide
A look into the world of fine watch engraving with King Nerd
Editor’s note: Since we originally ran this story back in 2017, the star of @KingNerd has grown ever brighter – he’s Revolution’s in-house engraver, and works on all sorts of dopeness. Definitely worth a second look. Real nerd @KingNerd might not be a real monarch, but he is royalty in the world of fine engraving. Definitely … ContinuedThe post A look into the world of fine watch engraving with King Nerd appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The stealthy excellence of the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in white gold (ref. 226659)
If you weren’t paying close attention you could easily miss the new Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in white gold. And I mean that in the best way. It’s a handsome timepiece, with a quiet presence that (despite its newness) feels reassuringly familiar in some hard-to-define way. Despite being 2mm bigger than its Everose Gold brother (and … ContinuedThe post The stealthy excellence of the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in white gold (ref. 226659) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Sea Time: Watches Inspired by Sailing, Yachting and Diving
So, typically in these ‘recommended reading’ posts we link to a good watch-related read that’s - you know - on the internet. Today we’re doing it a little different, with this link to an actual, honest-to-goodness book. It’s called (you guessed it) Sea Time: Watches Inspired by Sailing, Yachting and Diving and it’s 240 hardcover-bound pages … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Sea Time: Watches Inspired by Sailing, Yachting and Diving appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This is the ultimate dress watch, and it has been for more than 100 years
Editor’s note: Dress watches are one of those timepiece genres with very specific ‘rules’, and can be hard to nail. One watch that always manages to look elegant and on point in a dressy situation is the Cartier Tank. Like this Tank Louis Cartier we looked at a while back … It’s hard to overstate … ContinuedThe post This is the ultimate dress watch, and it has been for more than 100 years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Spending a month with a beaten-up Omega Seamaster 300 – a watch that wears its scars proudly
Editor’s note: I’ve got a thing for beaten-up watches. It shows they’ve lived a life, and that their owners aren’t thinking primarily about resale value. They’re watches being worn in the spirit in which they’re made. And that’s a good thing. A few months ago I ended up wearing the Omega Seamaster 300 for a … ContinuedThe post Spending a month with a beaten-up Omega Seamaster 300 – a watch that wears its scars proudly appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.