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Three-link semi-circular Rolex bracelet introduced for the 1956 Day-Date; Crownclasp closure.
1970s-80s lacquered colour dials for Rolex Day-Date; red / turquoise / salmon / lavender. Auction range $200k-$1M+.
Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).
Quill & Pad
Martin Green thinks that the El Primero A384 Revival is a powerful thing on the wrist. With a diameter of 37 mm it is small by today's standards, but compensates well with its cushion-shaped case. Its particular brand of cool makes him want to get a leather jacket and a muscle car. How about you?
Time+Tide
Since the Rolex lineup is peppered with all-stars, like the perennially popular Submariner, crowd favourite GMT-Master II and boy-racer Daytona, it would be easy to overlook the basic Oyster Perpetual as simply filler for the (nowadays usually empty) display case. After spending a week with the new-for-2018 white dial variant, I advise you not to … ContinuedThe post My week with the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The brand's seven-barrel, 14-day movement – now encased in red ceramic.
SJX Watches
Every year Blancpain (as well as its sister company Breguet) debuts a limited edition for Valentine’s Day. The concept is a bit kitschy – the watch is usually decked out in diamonds and hearts – but this year’s edition is a notably interesting watch. The Saint-Valentin 2020 is powered by a newly-developed form movement, the cal. 510, that is both rectangular and skeletonised. While traditionally Jaeger-LeCoultre has been the leader in form movements for ladies’ watches, most notably with the tiny cal. 101 and with other movements found in the Reverso as well as various Cartier Tanks, Blancpain has notched up a win in the segment with the cal. 510. The cal. 510 is relatively large for what is supposed to be a small movement for a ladies’ watch, measuring 12 mm wide and 25.2 mm long. But it is impressively constructed. It’s fitted with a good-sized barrel that gives it a 50-hour power reserve, which is lengthy for such a tiny movement. That is especially so considering the relatively large balance wheel that is free-sprung and equipped with hour regulating weights on its recessed rim. Additionally, the bridges are all open-worked, revealing the going train and barrel ratchet wheel. The result is also an obvious two-tone look, with the gilded wheels contrasted against the rhodium-plated bridges. And the components are finished carefully and completely, although it appears some of it is done by machine. The rest of the watch is arguably less interesting than ...
Time+Tide
Chopard have been an important firm in the Swiss luxury landscape since they were founded in 1860, but they weren’t always the house of haute horology that they are today. It wasn’t until just over a quarter of a century ago, in 1993, when Karl-Friedrich Scheufele made the decision to refocus the brand’s energies into … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The History of Chopard L.U.C watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
I am excited – after a couple of furiously busy weeks of behind-the-scenes planning – to announce the launch of the ‘Watch & Act!’ World Watch Auction in aid of the Australian bushfire crisis. The auction, launched today on the Invaluable online auction platform at 9am AEST, will run for 10 days, until 9am AEST … ContinuedThe post The ‘Watch & Act!’ World Watch Auction for the Australian bushfires is live! See and bid on all 16 watches now… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The English Premier League (or EPL as some people insist on calling it these days) is known for its fast, physical style of play that rarely translates to international success for the three lions. But with many famous Socceroos having plied their trade in England’s top flight, the league has strong exposure Down Under. Under … ContinuedThe post Premier League play-off – which manager is top of the League in the watch department? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“Authentic” is an often misused and even abused accolade in today’s disposable and instant-service world. Consumers tend to be impressed for brief moments with the speed and functionality of an app, or the savings and convenience that a subscription model lends to their lifestyle. Less and less frequently, consumers are able to appreciate a product … ContinuedThe post My week with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin 37mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
New case sizes and dials for Zenith's classic in-house time and date model.
Hodinkee
At the end of the day, it's all about passion, people.
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Time+Tide
Outfits change when the clock strikes five on Friday afternoon - suits, shirts, ties, leather shoes … all of it makes way for weekend savoir-faire. And if you’re the type of person who likes to get out amongst it at the weekend, whether it be hiking, mountain biking, 4WD … you name it, what you want … ContinuedThe post Marvellous mil-specs: 3 great military-spec watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Yes, the technology almost single-handedly destroyed the Swiss watch industry, but whether you want to admit it or not, quartz watches are brilliantly impressive, and they have been the main proponents in democratising timepieces as we know them today. Ever since the ingenious battery-powered Seiko Astron first burst onto the scene on December 25, 1969, … ContinuedThe post Fully charged: 4 of the best quartz watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
As one of the most important model series in the world today, the Rolex Daytona is used to living life in the spotlight. What that means is that there are very few things to say about the Daytona that haven’t already been said, but here’s a rundown of five milestone changes to how the Rolex … ContinuedThe post 5 things you never knew about the Rolex Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breguet is often at its best when it does traditionally styled watches with a twist, something exemplified by the Classique 5175 limited edition made for its Tokyo boutique in 2017. The design was classical, but the dial was blue enamel, instead of the usual white (or occasionally, black). This year Breguet revived the same look – albeit with a date window – for the new Classique 5177, once again in blue enamel. A longstanding model in the catalogue, the Classique 5177 was launched in 2006, but in more traditional livery – white enamel, or guilloche in either basketweave or hobnail. The latest iteration, however, is the most striking of the lot, managing to be both traditional and different. Formal dress At 38mm by 8.8mm, the case is perfectly proportioned as a modern dress watch; not too big and not too small. Like all Breguet watches it has long, narrow lugs, which give it a slightly larger footprint than its dimensions imply. On the wrist the watch sits graceful and flat, proportions that give it a look of proper formality, especially when combined with its restrained design. The profile of the traditional Breguet watch case, with a fluted case band and soldered lugs All the details of the new 5177 are old school, inspired by 19th century Breguet pocket watches. The obvious ones are the Breguet-style numerals and hands, while the less obvious, and more charming, elements include the star-shaped minute markers and the Breguet “secret” signature above six o’c...
Time+Tide
For many years now, watchmakers on all levels have tried to separate themselves from the pack by experimenting with different watch case materials. Nowadays, we’re used to seeing some highly impressive materials make their way onto our wrists. Ceramics, plastics and carbons are all enjoying their day in the sun, but how do the older, … ContinuedThe post Best case scenario: What are the best watch case materials? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Chronographs are, to this day, one of the most useful complications you can find on a wrist watch. They’re just so practical - whether you’re timing your next run, daily commute or next lap time around the Phillip Island Grand Prix track, a chronograph has got you covered. Thing is, though, because of its complexity, … ContinuedThe post Cheap thrills: 3 top chronographs for under a grand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The conventional calendar used in most of the world is the Gregorian calendar, which has 365 days and an extra day in February every leap year. Consequently, and quite sensibly, almost all calendar watches display the Gregorian calendar. But there are other calendars used by various cultures and countries, like the Japanese calendar used for its Imperial eras, and also the Islamic, or Hijri, calendar. And now for the very first time, Parmigiani Fleurier has created a wristwatch with a Hijri perpetual calendar. Founded in 1996 by watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, the brand has long been synonymous with inventive and complex watches, most notably the supercar-inspired Bugatti timepieces. In 2011, the brand unveiled the Hijri calendar table clock, a US$2.5 million creation elaborately constructed in silver, rock crystal and semiprecious stone. Now Parmigiani has refined the concept and miniaturised it for the wrist with the Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar. A lunar calendar Made up of 12 lunar months and used to track important dates and events in Islam, the Hijri calendar differs from the common Gregorian Calendar in being a lunar calendar, one based on the cycles of the moon, and not Earth’s revolution around the sun. Its 12 months have either 29 or 30 days, resulting in a year that’s between 10 and 12 days shorter than the conventional 365-day year. The Islamic calendar began in 622 AD when the Prophet Muhammad moved from Mecca to Medina, both in present-day Saudi Arabia, ...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: It may surprise the uninitiated to read this, but creating a completely new calibre, in-house, from scratch, is a very, very costly exercise. And there’s a reason that most boutique and micro watchmakers stick to third-party movements from the likes of ETA and Sellita, because to make their own movements is financially unviable. … ContinuedThe post Germanic genius: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The entry-level model in Breitling’s Navitimer line, the Navitimer 41 is a three-hander with date – plus the Navitimer’s trademark circular slide rule bezel. Already available in a variety of guises, it’s now available in a small, 36-piece run for Breitling’s Southeast Asian boutiques, with a blue dial and red gold bezel. The Navitimer Automatic 41 Southeast Asia Boutique Edition has a 41mm steel case, but dressed up with the rotating bezel in 18k red gold. As with all current Navitimers, the bezel has a “beads of rice” rim, a detail taken from the first generation Navitimer of the 1950s that was later replaced by a more functional knurled edge. To match the bezel, the hands and hour markers are plated in red gold, while the dial is a deep metallic blue. Though not available on the Navitimer prior to this, the combination is a familiar, having been used by numerous brands in recent years, especially with blue dials being fashionable now. And the movement inside the Breitling 17, which is a rebadged ETA 2824, a robust, no-frills movement, here with a COSC chronometer certification. The SE Asia edition is limited to 36 pieces, and not 50 as engraved on the case back of the prototype above Key facts and price Navitimer Automatic 41 Southeast Asia Boutique Edition Diameter: 41mm Height: 10mm Material: Steel with 18k red gold bezel Water resistance: 30m Movement: Breitling 17 (ETA 2824) Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date Winding: Automatic Freque...
Time+Tide
Much as it pains me to admit it, these days, haute horology is usually reserved for the rarified and uber-expensive micro-brands of the Swiss watchmaking world. It’s not that the heavyweights of the industry have completely given up on the idea of innovation – far from it – but it does seem as though there’s … ContinuedThe post 3 reasons why the TAG Heuer Monaco V4 Platinum is still amazing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
Originally introduced in stainless steel and red gold earlier in the year, Blancpain has just unveiled the top of the line Villeret Ultraplate 6605, now in platinum with a deep blue dial in an 88-piece limited edition. Ultra plate is French for “ultra flat”, and it aptly describes the line, which includes both automatic and hand-wound models. The new Villeret Ultraplate 6605 is essentially the hand-wound, time-only version of the self-winding (plus date) Ultraplate 6223 that’s a decades-old mainstay in the Blancpain line-up. At 40mm wide and just 7.39mm high, the Ultraplate 6605 is compact on both dimensions and exceedingly elegant. It’s also slightly larger but thinner than the automatic 6223. Entirely polished, the platinum case is done in typical Blancpain style, with a thin, double-stepped bezel and slim, short lugs that allow the watch to wear smaller than expected. The deep blue dial has a simple sun-ray finish and features applied Roman numerals in white gold, along with a pair of elegant, open-worked leaf-shaped hands – a tiny detail but one that lightens the dial. Powering the watch is the hand-wound cal. 11A4B. Though a new movement, it is based on the automatic Frederic Piguet cal. 1150 introduced in 1988. The 11A4B is essentially an enlarged, hand-wind variant of the cal. 1150, with a diameter of 27.8m versus the 1150’s 26.2mm. Some of the enlargement is thanks to wider base plate and bridges, while retaining the original architecture – explain...
WatchAdvice
Despite recent turbulent times (pun intended #avgeek), under the guidance of Georges Kern and team, Breitling has re-established itself with a robust and cohesive line up of watches. Today, we take a closer look at a staple of the “air collection”, The Avenger, but more specifically, a newer addition, The Blackbird. Designed to be sleek and stealthy, this particular Breitling is a little different to the usual polished steel cases usually offered. CASE: Titanium has certainly gained popularity in recent years. Breitling went one step further and went full stealth mode, coating the large 48mm case (before you stop reading, there’s a 44mm option also), with “a highly resistant black carbon-based treatment,” aka DLC coating from what I’ve researched. While large in diameter, case thickness of 14.8mm and a lug width of 24mm (tapers to buckle), it’s surprisingly comfortable on wrist. The curved lugs combined with a canvas strap, allows the wearer to anchor down the watch, while the flat, untreated, screw-down caseback ensures a low profile is maintained. The 60 minutes, unidirectional bezel is smooth in operation and clicks into position cleanly. On the media model shown, there was a small amount of back-play; however, I’m confident this would be corrected by the small retaining screws found around the bezel edging. Inside, keeping time is the Breitling B17 movement (a base ETA 2892-A2) that is CSOSC certified, with 42hrs of flight time. The knurled,...
Hodinkee
A cross-section of old-school watch design and modern-day watchmaking ability.
Time+Tide
Believe it or not, somehow there are just 23 short days left until Christmas, and if you haven’t bought your presents yet … you’re in a bit of strife. Thankfully, however, if that special someone in your life is fond of a timepiece or two, then Longines has got you covered with a great many … ContinuedThe post Santa’s little helpers: 3 Longines tool watches for the festive season appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Grand Seiko has long been the benchmark of a 'value' timepiece. Decades before the proliferation of micro-brands, the Seiko Grand Seiko brand could well be held in the status that many try to get a pie of today. It had the right amount of hand-made, the right amount of mechanical superiority, the right amount of manufacturer pedigree and 'had' the right price.
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