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Grand Seiko Quartz Guide: The SBGP013 Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Jul 31, 2024

Grand Seiko Quartz Guide: The SBGP013

Today we’re looking at one of the best ways to get into Grand Seiko if you’re just discovering the brand for the first time. Or maybe you’re just looking for your “one nice watch” and want something that can do it all. One that can go straight from the office to kicking back on the weekend, perhaps even dressing up for special occasions. A GADA watch, if you will. So if you’re just now starting to go down the rabbit hole of luxury watches, you’ve probably become somewhat familiar with Grand Seiko. The brand came into existence in 1960 as a high-end offshoot of Seiko, a shot across the bow of the Swiss watch industry, and a statement that its quality could match anything in the watchmaking world.  One thing you’ll notice as you start to look deeper into Grand Seiko is the astonishing level of craftsmanship that touches every part of every watch they make. Just like Rolex and Seiko itself, Grand Seiko is one of the most vertically integrated watch brands in the world – in other words, it manufactures nearly everything that goes into its watches. From finely polished stainless steel, precious metals, and high-intensity titanium cases to its innovative and beautifully finished movements and breathtaking dials that draw inspiration from nature, Grand Seiko does it all, going to some extraordinary lengths, including growing its own proprietary quartz crystals, and manufacturing the lubricants that go into each movement.  If you take a look at Teddy’s video ...

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Introducing – Omega Discreetly Adds an Array of Moonshine Gold References to the Seamaster Aqua Terra Collection Monochrome
Omega Discreetly Adds Jul 29, 2024

Introducing – Omega Discreetly Adds an Array of Moonshine Gold References to the Seamaster Aqua Terra Collection

In the past few days, we’ve introduced a new (and really appealing) Bronze Gold CK 859 and reviewed the Paris 2024 Speedmaster Chronoscope… Which makes a lot of sense as we’re now right in the middle of the Olympics. But that’s not all for Omega, as we have more to introduce. Probably the brand’s most […]

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Bulova is Seeing Red with their Latest Lunar Pilot Worn & Wound
Bulova Jul 25, 2024

Bulova is Seeing Red with their Latest Lunar Pilot

It’s officially Space Watch Season. We just saw G-SHOCK release their latest collaborative release with NASA, and now Bulova returns with a new version of their popular Lunar Pilot, this one in a “blood moon” colorway. While the Lunar Pilot doesn’t have “first watch on the moon” pedigree like the venerable Omega Speedmaster, it does have its own legitimate spacefaring history. In 1971, Dave Scott, mission commander of Apollo 15, wore a similar Bulova Chronograph when he became the seventh man to walk on the moon. Unlike the Speedmaster, which was conceived originally as a racing chronograph, the Bulova on Scott’s wrist was designed specifically for use in space, specifically for timing related to critical life support systems. The Lunar Pilot has some aesthetic similarities to the Speedmaster (in their purest form, they are both black dialed chronographs, after all) but Bulova has shown a willingness to experiment with the Lunar Pilot recently, and it now feels very much like its own thing, existing well outside the long shadow of the Speedy. This latest iteration is a good example of how Bulova uses this platform to play with color and our expectations for a sports watch like the Lunar Pilot should be.  As you can plainly see from the images in this post, what we have here is a very red version of the Lunar Pilot, with a bright red main dial and three silvered subdials at 9:00, 3:00, and 6:00. The inspiration here, according to Bulova, is a total lunar ecli...

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A New Dial Color for the Nomos Ahoi Worn & Wound
Nomos Ahoi German watchmaker NOMOS Jul 25, 2024

A New Dial Color for the Nomos Ahoi

German watchmaker NOMOS Glashütte has just released their latest Ahoi Neomatik 38 collection. Alongside Sky and Sand, we now have the Atlantic colorway. Inspired by the outdoor culture of seaside and island life, the Ahoi Neomatik 38 series combines sporty elements with a distinctive, sophisticated style.  Like others in the series, the Atlantic focuses on functionality without compromising on design. For swimming, diving, or sailing, legibility is key and this reference has large, readable numbers in an almost Art Deco font. The deep blue dial against the contrasting indices and hands aren’t just a great design choice, they also help to tell time in a variety of conditions while out at sea. Further to this, the hours and minutes are coated in Super-LumiNova to assist in low-light areas, such as during dives in open waters. The mixture of yellow hour markers, a red seconds hand, blue-black woven strap, and the 38.5mm stainless steel case all show a cohesive design language in the newAtlantic variant. The Atlantic runs on a NOMOS Neomatik caliber DUW 6101 with a 42-hour power reserve. This movement has a quick-set date function, which can be found at 3 o’clock. Given the aquatic inspiration for this watch, NOMOS has designed the case to be water resistant for up to 200 meters (20 atm).  Two references of this watch are available – the 518 and 528. The 518 has a stainless steel case back, while the 528 has a sapphire crystal case back. Both versions are available no...

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Breitling Teams Up with NBA Superstar Giannis Antetokounmpo SJX Watches
Breitling Teams Up Jul 19, 2024

Breitling Teams Up with NBA Superstar Giannis Antetokounmpo

Breitling’s latest collaboration is a pair of limited-edition Chronomats conceived together with Giannis Antetokounmpo, the Greek-Nigerian basketballer who plays for the NBA’s Milwaukee Bucks. The entry-level model is the Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 Giannis Antetokounmpo in stainless steel, an edition of 1,750 pieces. And then there’s the Chronomat B01 42 Giannis Antetokounmpo in 18k red gold that’s limited to 250. Both share the same dial with baton indices, finished in a green reminiscent of the Milwaukee Bucks’ team colours. And NBA superstar himself gets a unique creation: an all-red gold Chronomat B01 42 with the same green dial but with the registers and flange in contrasting white, along with Eastern-Arabic numerals (pictured above). Initial thoughts The Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are essentially identical to the respective standard Chronomat models, save for the dial colour that’s  a brighter shade of green, along with the basketballer’s discreet “GA” as the second hands counterweight. The chronograph has the addition of a basketball emblem on the seconds register. The basketball elements in the design are minimal, so the two are a good cosmetic alternative to the standard models, even for someone who doesn’t follow basketball since the sport. That’s especially so since the Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are priced the same as the standard models: the GMT costs US$6,150, while the B01 chronograph is US$42,500 on the red gold Rouleaux brac...

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What’s Next For Tudor? - Is It After Omega, Or Will It Take Rolex’s Former Spot? Fratello
Tudor ? - Jul 18, 2024

What’s Next For Tudor? - Is It After Omega, Or Will It Take Rolex’s Former Spot?

The Tudor of today has a raised voice and speaks its mind loudly and confidently. It doesn’t look like the brand it was before 2012, the year in which Tudor launched the Black Bay, the foundation of the manufacture we see today. Seeing a retro-styled dive watch with a burgundy bezel at Baselworld was confusing […] Visit What’s Next For Tudor? - Is It After Omega, Or Will It Take Rolex’s Former Spot? to read the full article.

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Raymond Weil’s Millesime Gets a Denim-Blue “Sector” Dial SJX Watches
Raymond Weil Jul 18, 2024

Raymond Weil’s Millesime Gets a Denim-Blue “Sector” Dial

Launched just last year, Raymond Weil’s “sector” dial is getting new livery with the Millesime Automatic Small Seconds Denim Blue. Not a vintage reissue per se but a modern take on a vintage-inspired design, the Millesime has a “sector” or “scientific” dial segmented into sections, subtly stepped on the periphery and frosted in the centre for a two-tone effect. The case is topped with a box-shaped sapphire crystal and narrow lugs for subtle retro charm. Initial thoughts Family-run Raymond Weil is a brand that might be familiar to watch enthusiasts but not top of mind – that’s because the brand had its heyday in the 1980s and 1990s when it was a major seller of affordable Swiss watches. Since then it has gradually fallen behind the competition with mostly unimaginative products; The New York Times describes the brand as a “mainstay of shopping malls”. With last year’s launch of the Millesime, a watch geared towards enthusiasts, the brand is trying to revive its offerings and reputation. It quickly found some success: the Millesime Small Seconds with a silver dial won the Challenge Prize (for watches retailing for less than CHF3,000) at last year’s  Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève. Near-perfect proportions at 39.5 mm in diameter and just over 10 mm high In the hand, it’s obvious the Millesime is much, much better than most recent Raymond Weil creations. Even though the design isn’t exactly original, it shows attention was paid to the de...

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5 Watches To Start A Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 17, 2024

5 Watches To Start A Collection

Having a collection of watches isn’t generally something you plan on. It’s something that emerges over time, and it’s rarely a linear path. While it may seem natural to focus on finding the perfect watch or watches to fill out your watch box, the reality is that all watches have their faults, and the real key is learning which of those you can live with, and which you can’t. In time, some of those, let’s call them quirks, can even become endearing. With that in mind, instead of looking at watches that will begin a collection, let us take a look at watches that will end up lasting in your collection. Sure, they could start your collection, but they could just as easily end it, whether that collection consists of two watches, or 50.  With that, here are 5 watches that would kick off any collection with a bang, and that I feel would have a high likelihood of sticking around for the long term.  Disclaimer: these selections will lean a bit toward the tool watch end of the spectrum, as those are the watches that I find the most well-rounded and practical for my purposes. If you’re looking for some classier recommendations in the same vein, keep an eye out for a future installment.  Brew Metric The Brew Metric is a remarkably fun, simple watch that represents the sheer creativity happening in the small independent brand space. This is a great watch to start with for a few reasons. First, it can be had in a wide variety of colorways, which range from classic and de...

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Armitron’s First Major Rebrand in 50 Years: Beyond Fashion Watches? Worn & Wound
Rolex Pepsi” GMT Jul 17, 2024

Armitron’s First Major Rebrand in 50 Years: Beyond Fashion Watches?

Regardless of what’s in your collection now, we all had a piece that acted as a gateway drug – the one that first sunk the horology hook in. Maybe your fondest early wristwatch memories are illuminated in Timex Indiglo? Perhaps they take the shape of a Casio G-SHOCK? Could it have been an analog Armitron with one of the Looney Toons characters on the dial? Maybe your dad bought you a bogus Rolex “Pepsi” GMT on Canal Street and threw it on a rubber strap so you could wear it as a 7 year old, and maybe someone stole it out of your duffle bag at Tae Kwon Do and you’re still not fully over the loss at 37?  Most of the manufacturers that helped us originally fall in love with wristwatches have found creative ways to grow with us and to evolve as watch collecting has shifted into the mainstream. Timex currently boasts a respectable line of vintage-inspired, entry level watches – including a few collaborative pieces with Worn & Wound that we, of course, think are fantastic. G-SHOCK has managed to stay exceptionally relevant via hyped celebrity collabs with the likes of John Mayer and Ed Sheeran. As for Armitron, they’ve maintained a comfortable station as a producer of affordable fashion watches that are generally sold at big box stores, and while their line has consistently included a few playful heritage pieces that hint at the potential for more, they’ve never really been a part of the conversation for enthusiasts. However, that might be changing as Armitron h...

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Moser’s Latest Perpetual is Minimalist and Purple Fired Enamel SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Jul 15, 2024

Moser’s Latest Perpetual is Minimalist and Purple Fired Enamel

H. Moser & Cie. is marking the 70th anniversary of its retailer in Southeast Asia with the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition. The first model in the Pioneer line to feature an enamel dial, this is also Moser’s inaugural venture into a grand feu enamel dial in purple fumé, which is translucent, smoked, and executed on an engraved dial base. It’s matched with a two-colour case of 18k red gold with titanium inserts treated with black diamond-like carbon (DLC), containing the manual-wind in-house HMC 808 movement that offers seven days of power reserve and more importantly, the brand’s innovative and concise perpetual calendar mechanism. Initial thoughts The new Pioneer perpetual it showcases typical Moser aesthetics and craft in a restrained style, with the details only apparent up close. At a distance the perpetual calendar is barely discernible with the dial having only the month and date along with two tiny pointers. But the purple flinqué enamel dial is stunning up close, with the textured surface showing through the translucent enamel. And the combination of the Pioneer case that’s rated to 120 m along with the fired enamel dial is unusual, giving the semi-sporty model a more refined aspect. Leaving aside the aesthetics, the watch is notable for the HMC 808 movement, still one of the cleverest perpetual calendar movements on the market two decades after its introduction. The case back is etched with the Sincer...

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Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jul 11, 2024

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic

A new livery for one of Zenith’s most popular models, the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic shares the styling of its siblings like the Defy Skyline 36 mm but with a few notable tweaks including a white ceramic case and blue-treated skeletonised movement. And though it appears to be a simple time-only watch, the Defy Skyline features a discreet complication in the form of a “lightning” small seconds hand that completes one rotation every ten seconds. Initial thoughts Zenith has recently been playing it safe with new launches by building on current bestsellers, like the Defy Skyline. The new skeleton in white ceramic is a good looking watch, and an excellent execution of one of Zenith’s modern-day classics. The combination is also novel. Although each key element of the watch is common in itself – a skeleton movement plus the white ceramic case and bracelet – they are relatively uncommon together. The Defy Skyline Skeleton on the wrist However, the Defy Skyline arguably tries too hard to capitalise on the recent (and waning) popularity of integrated-bracelet sports watches. It is not difficult to see a resemblance to the Royal Oak, in particular the one-off Royal Oak made for Only Watch 2023, making it a bit cliché. Priced at US$17,500, the Defy Skyline Skeleton in white ceramic is a decent value proposition compared to similar watches, most of which are from pricier brands like Hublot or Audemars Piguet. Besides the ceramic case and bracelet, it stands out ...

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Hands On: F.P. Journe Élégante “Gino’s Dream” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Aquanaut minute repeater Jul 9, 2024

Hands On: F.P. Journe Élégante “Gino’s Dream”

Now a legend in his own time, François-Paul Journe is an independent watchmaker who has created some of the most complicated and most ingenious timepieces in contemporary watchmaking. But having quietly previewed it last year, Mr Journe finally launched a watch that is, on its face, surprising for his brand: the Élégante Gino’s Dream. Many brands have “rainbow” watches in their catalogues, but as is always the case with Mr Journe, his “rainbow” creation is done his own inimitable way. Based on his inventive quartz watch, the Élégante Gino’s Dream is set with synthetic gemstones of glass-ceramic composite. The colours and model name are a tribute to the late Gino Cukrowicz (1959-2021), one of Mr Journe’s best friends and a longtime business partner. Initial thoughts With the popularity – and value – of “rainbow” watches, it seems like every watch brand has one in its line-up, from the Patek Philippe Aquanaut minute repeater in rainbow stones from end to end to Tudor’s special edition for the VCARB Formula 1 team. So an F.P. Journe in those colours isn’t surprising, yet the Élégante “Gino’s Dream” is unexpected. As with much he has done, Mr Journe didn’t do a “rainbow” like anyone else. Instead of an exceptionally expensive gem-set watch – a favoured approach as a sure way to increase revenue without boosting production – he created something entry-level, more or less. And the watch has a deeply personal aspect to it – Gino...

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Introducing the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC947, a Chronograph About as Close to the Classic “Pogue” as We’ve Seen Worn & Wound
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC947 Jul 8, 2024

Introducing the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC947, a Chronograph About as Close to the Classic “Pogue” as We’ve Seen

For years, Seiko fans have been clamoring for the return of the Pogue. From all corners of the internet, enthusiasts never let an opportunity to request a reissue of Seiko’s classic sports chronograph go to waste. The Pogue, otherwise known as reference 6139-6002, is legendary, famous for being on the wrist of NASA astronaut Col. William Pogue on his flight to Skylab. The watch in question was among the first automatic chronographs and issued in a variety of colorways, but it’s Pogue’s mustard yellow dial with a red and blue bezel that is the most collectible, and certainly the Seiko chronograph most of us picture in our mind’s eye when we think “Seiko chronograph.” For reasons the community can no doubt speculate on endlessly, Seiko never has relaunched the Pogue proper, but they’ve come about as close as they ever have with their latest release, the Prospex Speedtimer reference SSC947. We’ll examine the elephant in the room right upfront: this is not a mechanical chronograph, so is perhaps not the true heir to the Pogue legend. What we have in the SSC947 is a new entry in Seiko’s popular and quite good lineup of solar powered sports chronographs. We’re pretty big fans of these watches, which offer a ton of vintage inspired style and endless practicality in a package that’s extremely approachable. The retail price is $700 for watches in this collection, and they’re sized at a versatile 41.4mm. The special sauce with the Speedtimers is really in the...

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Monta Adds a GMT Complication to the Noble Collection with the New Noble Voyager Worn & Wound
Monta Jul 5, 2024

Monta Adds a GMT Complication to the Noble Collection with the New Noble Voyager

Monta has announced an upgrade to their popular Noble collection today with the Noble Voyager. This new watch expands on the Noble concept, which is an old-fashioned luxury sport watch with distinct refined details that place just a click outside the “tool watch” category, by adding a GMT complication. This, of course, makes complete sense for a sports watch that was conceived to go anywhere. Now, when you go there (or, anywhere) you’ll be fully able to monitor an additional time zone.  The execution here is quite subtle, and unless you were really searching for it, it would be easy to miss the GMT complication entirely. Monta has chosen to make the 24 hour hand a skeletonized clone of the local hour hand rather than a more traditional long hand with a broad arrow tip, or something of that nature. This helps to keep the Noble Voyager’s dial clean so that the drama of the lightly textured dégradé dials (in green or blue) remain intact. This was always my favorite design element of the original Noble, and I’m glad to see that Monta has held this over from the time and date versions of the watch. Besides the additional hand and a 24 hour scale at the dial’s perimeter, this is still very easily recognized as a Noble.  The Noble Voyager’s case has nearly the same dimensions as the time and date model, measuring 38.5mm in diameter and 47mm lug to lug. The difference comes in the case height measurement, which is 10.7mm on the Noble Voyager compared to 9.7mm on ...

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Hands-On With The New Brellum Pandial Marina Bicompax Titanium Chronometer Fratello
Jul 5, 2024

Hands-On With The New Brellum Pandial Marina Bicompax Titanium Chronometer

Today’s Brellum Pandial Marina Bicompax Titanium Chronometer visited us at Fratello HQ, and we were left impressed by the brand’s latest release. Brellum focuses on numbered, low-production editions with a high value-to-price ratio. This piece may be the most compelling yet. It’s hard not to be cynical when looking at the prices of new watches. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Brellum Pandial Marina Bicompax Titanium Chronometer to read the full article.

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Is Tudor’s New Black Bay More Compelling Than The Rolex Submariner? Fratello
Tudor s New Black Bay Jul 5, 2024

Is Tudor’s New Black Bay More Compelling Than The Rolex Submariner?

Today, I want to talk about why I would opt for a modern-day Tudor Black Bay over a modern-day Rolex Submariner. The reasons are subjective and not based on specifications. I would also love to read your views in the comments section. Read on. Rolex and Tudor are part of the same family. However, since […] Visit Is Tudor’s New Black Bay More Compelling Than The Rolex Submariner? to read the full article.

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IAMWATCH in Singapore, an Independent Watchmaking-Centric Event SJX Watches
Urwerk Florian Bédat Jul 5, 2024

IAMWATCH in Singapore, an Independent Watchmaking-Centric Event

Singapore retailer The Hour Glass is staging IAMWATCH over four days in October 2024. The event is conceived as a gathering for watch enthusiasts with notable independent watchmakers in attendance, including Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk, Florian Bédat and Gaël Petermann, Kari Voutilainen, Raúl Pagès, and Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia. IAMWATCH will serve as a platform for face-to-face engagement between watch enthusiasts and noted industry personalities like Aurel Bacs, Jean Arnault, Maximilian Büsser, and Pierre Biver, providing enthusiasts opportunities to connect and learn. The event includes presentations, lectures, and fireside chats with more than 40 industry insiders. IAMWATCH will be held at the Singapore Edition hotel. Admission is free and open to the public daily October 18-20, from 11 am-8 pm, however, registration is required and it can be done online at Iamwatch.com.  

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The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB is Now Regular Production SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB Jul 4, 2024

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB is Now Regular Production

Several months back, Tudor quietly released the Black Bay Ceramic Blue exclusively for the Visa Cash App RB (VCARB) Formula One team, with the dial colour modelled on the Visa logo. Today, the watch is available to the public (while the VCARB drivers will sport the more recent rainbow-dial “Chameleon” edition). Initial thoughts Tudor often listens to its audience, giving them what they want. Examples include the more compact Black Bay 58 GMT, and now the Black Bay Ceramic Blue. Intrinsically, the new Black Bay is technically and aesthetically perfect in its own way. It is the same Black Bay that has remained the brand’s bestseller since its launch, but in an unusual combination of black ceramic and blue. The brand has rolled out a number of special editions recently, which might dilute the concept somewhat. That said, this is the first instance of a publicly available Black Bay Ceramic special edition (unlike say the Black Bay 58), which makes it appealing. That said, the Black Bay Ceramic Blue is a great value proposition, as is usually the case for Tudor. It combines a ceramic case with an impressively spec’ed in-house movement that’s both METAS- and COSC-Certified, all for US$5,150, a price that few can rival. Visa Blue The highlight of the new Black Bay Ceramic is the matte blue dial (that’s arguably similar to the discontinued Rolex Submariner “Smurf” ref. 116619). It’s matched with applied hour markers and snowflake hands filled with white Super-Lum...

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Tudor Black Bay Ceramic 'Blue' – Everything You Need To Know Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Jul 3, 2024

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic 'Blue' – Everything You Need To Know

Back in February of this year, shortly after Tudor became a sponsor of the Visa Cash App RB Racing Team, driver Daniel Ricciardo was spotted wearing a curious blue dial Tudor Black Bay Ceramic – a watch that up to that point had not existed. It was a very “Daniel Craig wearing a white pre-release Speedmaster to Planet Omega in New York” moment. As it turns out, this watch became the standard timepiece in the paddock for both drivers Ricciardo and Yuki Tsunoda. But the story sort of ended there and we were left to figure that this was just a racing watch…not for public consumption. That is, until this morning, when Tudor let it be known that the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” is now a very real thing that us very real people can very truly own. And now we have a lot more images of the watch to boot. In light of the fact that Ricciardo somewhat spoiled this launch back in February, there is not much to say that isn’t known. And similar to the white Speedmaster, we are effectively talking about a dial change here. But nonetheless, let’s get into this one. The watch takes the form of the 2021 Black Bay Ceramic release which, at the time, boasted an all-black-everything design motif from the ceramic case to the dial to the strap. The BB Ceramic comes in at 41mm with a case thickness of 14.4mm. It features the METAS-certified master chronometer MT5602-U1. What is significant about that movement is that the original BB Ceramic was the watch to debut Tudor’s for...

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News – The F1-Themed Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Blue, Now Available to the Public Monochrome
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Blue Jul 3, 2024

News – The F1-Themed Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Blue, Now Available to the Public

A few months ago, just ahead of the 2024 Formula 1 season, Tudor announced a rather unexpected partnership, signing its return in motorsport. The brand indeed announced its official partnership with Red Bull’s second team, Visa Cash App RB Formula One team, with drivers Daniel Ricciardo and Yuki Tsunoda behind the wheel. Only a couple […]

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