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WATCH SPOTTING: Brad Pitt’s TAG Heuer in Moneyball and the interesting story behind it Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aug 25, 2020

WATCH SPOTTING: Brad Pitt’s TAG Heuer in Moneyball and the interesting story behind it

During the pandemic, many have used the time at home to catch up on a recommended TV series or film they may have missed in busier times, or re-watch some comforting favourites. In my seventh or eighth run-through of The West Wing television series, I almost spilled my beer in excitement when I spotted an … ContinuedThe post WATCH SPOTTING: Brad Pitt’s TAG Heuer in Moneyball and the interesting story behind it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The best watches of Scandinavia, exhibitions in New York and a new collection for the skies Time+Tide
Aug 20, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The best watches of Scandinavia, exhibitions in New York and a new collection for the skies

Time+Tide has always been proudly Australian-based, and, whenever required, Aussie-centric. If you didn’t know this before earlier this year, you would have learned it then. Our country was ravaged by bushfires, and many of you reading came to our aid by supporting an auction we held to help out. But that is all a distant … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The best watches of Scandinavia, exhibitions in New York and a new collection for the skies appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Montblanc Introduces the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Limited Edition SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces Aug 15, 2020

Montblanc Introduces the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Limited Edition

A fountain-pen maker for most of its history, Montblanc ventured into watchmaking and found success with its entry-level watches produced in its Le Locle factory. But the brand’s high horology watches are made at the former Minerva manufacture in Villeret – Montblanc acquired the brand in 2007 – which produces only a few hundred timepieces each year. The latest model to emerge from Villeret is the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton, which boasts a skeleton movement that’s been hand-finished the traditional way. Though there is little movement left after the open working, there’s much left to decorate. According to Montblanc, the bridges include 420 inwards angles on their bevelled edges. Initial thoughts Measuring 44.8 mm by 15.01 mm, the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillion Skeleton is a surprisingly massive watch – a characteristic of many Montblanc watches powered by Minerva-derived movements. That’s because most of the calibres are descended from Minerva movements of the early 20th century that were originally built for pocket watches. The advantage is an appealing, old-school layout and aesthetic, but accompanied by the downside of extremely large size, making it impractical as an everyday watch. Priced at about US$160,000, the Exo Tourbillon Skeleton is priced similarly to comparable watches. In fact, it arguably has a finer movement finish than the competition, going by the average standard of movement decoration at Villeret. But at the same time, it is ext...

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Announcing the SJX Horological Anthology Volume I – Tudor [CLOSED] SJX Watches
Tudor [CLOSED] I am happy Aug 14, 2020

Announcing the SJX Horological Anthology Volume I – Tudor [CLOSED]

I am happy to announce Volume I of A Horological Anthology by SJX is finally complete. As some of you would know from a couple of hints on Instagram, I’ve been working on the first-ever print publication by SJX – a book dedicated to Tudor. A project that began in late 2018, Volume I is a hardbound volume that delves into Tudor’s history, notable timepieces, and most crucially – the a detailed look at the brand’s factory in Geneva. [All copies are gone. Thank you for the overwhelming interest.] Behind the curtain Tudor caught my attention long before the project began, specifically in 2010 when the Heritage Chronograph was launched. Before that, for as long as I could remember, the brand offered solid watches with little allure. But the Heritage Chronograph marked a turning point for Tudor, which then embarked on a gradual but radical transformation into something entirely more exciting. But more significant than the smartly retro designs – especially for me as an industry observer – was the brand’s shift to proprietary movements (which are now produced by Tudor-owned specialist Kenissi) without upping prices much. That remains pretty much an unrivalled accomplishment in the industry. How did Tudor do it? The answer was the starting point of Volume I, which involved several visits to Tudor in Geneva, giving me a fascinating peek into the brand’s watchmaking facility and archives. I came away deeply impressed by the extreme attention to quality in every...

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Breitling Navitimer 35 hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Breitling Navitimer 35 hands-on Review Aug 13, 2020

Breitling Navitimer 35 hands-on Review

Since its introduction to market in 1952, the Breitling Navitimer has been a hallmark of not only Breitling as a brand, but the luxury watch industry at large. When one thinks of pilots watches, the Breitling Navitimer is principal amongst those thoughts. Traditionally the Navitimer is a large, bold timepiece, designed for not only legibility but practicality.  It is the principal purpose of the Navitimer that it be practical in almost any aviation endeavour. To achieve its purpose, Breitling equipped the Navitimer with its signature slide rule bezel. The slide rule bezel is the watches bi-directional rotating bezel, traditionally adorned with a number of mathematical conversion scales which, when used in conjunction with the watches other signature function, a chronograph, is able to decipher a variety of equations useful to Pilots prior to electronic monitoring devices becoming commonplace in cockpits.  So when Breitling launched the paired down Navitimer 35 as part of their ground-breaking digital launch earlier in 2020, it would be fair to say that the new chronograph-less timepiece left me with some reservations. Firstly, the elephant in the room, this is the first ever 35mm mechanical Navitimer that the brand has launched. It shows the brands commitment to trimming the diameter of its timepieces, and its push into smaller wristed markets. This may seem like a good thing in a vacuum, however, instead of leaning into the size down, Breitling market the Navitimer 35 a...

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HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook Bronze is going to stay golden, care of its copper alloy Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook Bronze Aug 6, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook Bronze is going to stay golden, care of its copper alloy

To even the most casual Time+Tide reader, the Rado Captain Cook is likely to be a known quantity. A strong, stainless steel, vintage-inspired design, backed up by a reliable modern movement in a range of sizes … all true, but that’s no longer the extent of it. For the first time, we can now add … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook Bronze is going to stay golden, care of its copper alloy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Carbonium: Adding Lightness Quill & Pad
Aug 2, 2020

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Carbonium: Adding Lightness

The time-only Romain Gauthier Micro-Rotor already seemed like it was built around the concept of 'simplify, then add lightness' as it was pared back to the essentials while still maintaining the Gauthier flair. Now the Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette doubles down on the concept and continues to add even more lightness everywhere thanks in great part to open architecture that has been skeletonized, laying the inner workings bare. But there's more to it, and Joshua Munchow explains all of it here.

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6 of the best smart watches released in 2020, including Timex, Hublot and Bausele Time+Tide
Bausele Most watch enthusiasts are Aug 2, 2020

6 of the best smart watches released in 2020, including Timex, Hublot and Bausele

Most watch enthusiasts are guilty of – at one point or another – scoffing at the advent of the smart watch, confident that they would be a fad. And more confident still that they would never appeal to one with a love for ‘real’ watches. But that hasn’t been the case for most. Whether you … ContinuedThe post 6 of the best smart watches released in 2020, including Timex, Hublot and Bausele appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Patek Philippe Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph Jul 28, 2020

Up Close: Patek Philippe Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph

With Baselworld 2020 cancelled and then some, Patek Philippe has been progressively rolling out its new launches, including a trio of “Grand Complications” in mid July (and hints of a brand-new complication at the end of the year). All three new complications are variants of existing models, with the crowd favourite being the Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph. The new ref. 5370P-011 has a blue grand feu enamel dial and replaces the original, black-dial model that made its debut in 2015 as the ref. 5370P-001. The ref. 5370P-011 The cal. CHR 29-535 PS Initial thoughts The only thing new about this version of the ref. 5370 versus the first-generation model is the colour of the enamel dial. So everything that was good about the original model (classical design, dial and case quality, movement aesthetics), remain good. Needless to say, so do the weaknesses (mismatched finish on seconds hand, details of movement decoration). The balance assembly Though not a dress watch, the original ref. 5370 was dressed in black-tie colours of black and silver that gave it a stately bearing, but also a slightly old-fashioned feel. With the enamel dial in blue – it’s a gentle, muted blue – the new ref. 5370 looks more modern and casual, which is a good thing if you’re looking for something less formal. The outside Though a large 41 mm in diameter, the case of the ref. 5370 reproduces the proportions of the ref. 1436, a split-seconds chronograph that was in production from ...

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A YEAR ON THE WRIST: With a twist… Why I love the polarising Rolex Air-King Ref. 116900 but why I won’t wear it Time+Tide
Rolex Air-King Ref 116900 but Jul 27, 2020

A YEAR ON THE WRIST: With a twist… Why I love the polarising Rolex Air-King Ref. 116900 but why I won’t wear it

Ever since its unveiling at Baselworld back in 2016, I’ve wanted a Rolex Air-King Ref. 116900. And, perhaps rather oddly, I’ve yearned for this polarising watch even longer than that. Allow me to explain. Back in 2014, Rolex announced they had made a bespoke pair of dash clocks for what was formerly known as the … ContinuedThe post A YEAR ON THE WRIST: With a twist… Why I love the polarising Rolex Air-King Ref. 116900 but why I won’t wear it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Resonance Watches Compared: F.P. Journe vs. Armin Strom vs. Beat Haldimann, And The Pros And Cons Of Each Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe vs Armin Strom vs Jul 26, 2020

Resonance Watches Compared: F.P. Journe vs. Armin Strom vs. Beat Haldimann, And The Pros And Cons Of Each

Many people believe resonance to be very rare, when in fact every single timekeeping device (yes, even quartz) is a resonant mechanism. But clocks and watches featuring resonance as we generally understand it in watchmaking are few and far between. In the last few decades, less than a handful of highly skilled watchmakers have taken up the challenge of creating a resonance watch. Here, Joshua Munchow looks at the pros and cons of the different approaches taken by the three leaders in this technology.

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Comparing the Halios Seaforth Bronze Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze, two giant microbrand divers for under $1000 Time+Tide
Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze two giant Jul 25, 2020

Comparing the Halios Seaforth Bronze Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze, two giant microbrand divers for under $1000

Legends are made quickly in the microbrand world. In the case of the Halios Seaforth Bronze, news of its popularity could barely keep up with the speed at which it sold out, and while rumours of a second production run have been teased since January, second-hand Seaforths in bronze have been selling for more than … ContinuedThe post Comparing the Halios Seaforth Bronze Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze, two giant microbrand divers for under $1000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin Sports Watches in Singapore SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sports Watches Jul 24, 2020

Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin Sports Watches in Singapore

Vacheron Constantin is staging an exhibition in Singapore dedicated to its sports watches spanning the 20th century history. Best known for the Overseas sports watch, now in its third generation, Vacheron Constantin has curated a compact selection of six timepieces illustrating the development of the sports timekeeper. An 1998 magazine advertisement for the first-generation Overseas The exhibition starts with watches from the 1940s, including a chronometer pocket watch in the style of military deck watches. But the highlight, at least from a design perspective, is the 222, the brand’s first luxury-sports watch. Designed by Jorg Hysek, the 222 made its debut in 1977, the year of the brand’s 222th anniversary. Featuring a notched bezel and integrated bracelet, it was very much in the style of the decade. The 222 line up The watches are on display at the brand’s boutique at the Marina Bay Sands casino-resort, which is also marking its 10th anniversary. Exhibition information The Origin of Vacheron Constantin Sports Elegance In Watchmaking July 13 to August 24, 2020 Vacheron Constantin Marina Bay Sands Boutique 2 Bayfront Avenue #B2M-238 Singapore 018972 Opening Hours: 11:30 am to 8:00 pm, Monday to Sunday  

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In-depth: Time Consciousness and Discipline in the Industrial Revolution SJX Watches
Jul 21, 2020

In-depth: Time Consciousness and Discipline in the Industrial Revolution

One of the most indelible scenes from Modern Times, the 1936 Charlie Chaplin film about the dreary life of an oppressed factory worker in Depression-era America, has Chaplin’s character strapped to a contraption that feeds him automatically, leaving his hands free to continue working on the assembly line below the dining platform. In the film, the scientists behind the feeding machine market it to the factory owner as “a practical device which automatically feeds your men while at work. Don’t stop for lunch: be ahead of your competitor. The Billows Feeding Machine will eliminate the lunch hour, increase your production, and decrease your overhead.” The “Billows Feeding Machine” in Modern Times While Modern Times was a caricature of a factory worker’s life, the film contains much truth, especially in how it illustrated the burgeoning preoccupation with time during the Industrial Revolution. An era marked by drastic shifts in culture, economics, politics, and technology, the Industrial Revolution was also characterised by an evolution in how time was perceived. Propelled by the needs of industry, time as a concept became synonymous with profit. Eventually growing to permeate all levels of society and industry, this time consciousness had a profound impact on the world that continues today. A landscape of factories Predominantly agrarian and rural societies were transformed during the Industrial Revolution, becoming industrialised and urbanised. This started in...

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A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Sex, booze and life insurance with the Tikker “death watch” Time+Tide
Jul 21, 2020

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Sex, booze and life insurance with the Tikker “death watch”

At 3am, the world can seem like a bleak place. Staring at the bedroom ceiling unable to sleep, I find myself wrestling with a familiar stampede of anxieties. All the usual suspects are present and correct: the financial headaches, the career regrets, the mounting horror that my “double crown” is, in fact, a nascent bald … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Sex, booze and life insurance with the Tikker “death watch” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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10 of the best digital watches you can buy in 2020, Part 2, including a cold Casio classic for 20 bucks Time+Tide
Casio classic Jul 19, 2020

10 of the best digital watches you can buy in 2020, Part 2, including a cold Casio classic for 20 bucks

Digital watches remain an overlooked part of the watch world, forgotten by many who consider themselves to have ‘graduated’ to mechanical watches. But as we saw in Part 1 of this series where we looked at some of the best new releases in the last 12 months or so, there are a number of seriously cool … ContinuedThe post 10 of the best digital watches you can buy in 2020, Part 2, including a cold Casio classic for 20 bucks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The new Omega Constellation 41mm demands that you look on the model with fresh eyes Time+Tide
Omega Constellation 41mm demands Jul 18, 2020

INTRODUCING: The new Omega Constellation 41mm demands that you look on the model with fresh eyes

Omega’s Constellation has always been somewhat of a quiet achiever – a low-key collection that has, thanks to the endless popularity of its space and seagoing siblings, been often overlooked and maybe even, at times, forgotten. That’s all changing in 2020, though. Omega appears steadfast in breathing new life into the dressy-come-sporty collection. In January, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Omega Constellation 41mm demands that you look on the model with fresh eyes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Steel Bulgari Octo Finissimo has started to hit boutiques, game on Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo has started Jul 17, 2020

The Steel Bulgari Octo Finissimo has started to hit boutiques, game on

Editor’s note: Andrew didn’t know it at the time, but LVMH Watch Week in Dubai was the only major watch event in the first half of 2020. What he also didn’t know, but had a strong feeling about, was what the best luxury steel sports watch of the year would be. He picked it early, … ContinuedThe post The Steel Bulgari Octo Finissimo has started to hit boutiques, game on appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Grand Seiko SBGM221 review WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko SBGM221 review Jul 16, 2020

Grand Seiko SBGM221 review

The nature of time.  At first glance, the phrase reads as if some form of pseudo philosophical jargon, the kind of slogan born in the Grand Seiko PR departments internship program. That is, until you hold a Grand Seiko in your hands, until you feel the piece and experience the brands physical manifestation of their philosophy. For the past week or so, I have been taking a look at the Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT. A watch from the Elegance line of Grand Seiko, and for that week I have found myself both enamoured and underwhelmed by the nature of this timepiece. As a brand, Grand Seiko prides itself in their craftsmanship, they have been heralded for the famed Ziratsu polish, and admired for the intricacy and complexity of their dials. So it should be noted right away, the finishing and construction of the SBGM221 is first class. The watch has clearly been held to a very high standard during production, nothing is out of place, nothing is even remotely undercooked. The SBGM221 spans a precise 39.5mm in diameter by an equally precise 13.7mm thick. Lug to lug the watch measures 46.3mm, this is achieved by the use of dramatically yet elegantly down curving lugs which hug the piece on to your wrist. I have a wrist size of 17.5cm and found the piece was right in the sweet spot of comfort for me personally, the watch could comfortably be worn down to as little as 15cm due primarily to the curvature of the lugs.  The case of the SBGM221 is where I found the most wonder within the watc...

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The Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks like it’s been sent to put a hit on anyone that questions its (high) price point Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks Jul 15, 2020

The Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks like it’s been sent to put a hit on anyone that questions its (high) price point

Editor’s note: There’s the simple fact that Seiko are turning up the heat on the Swiss watch industry, and then there’s the way they’re doing it. Both are 100% worth taking note of. For example, let’s re-examine the Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J, a high-spec Spring Drive GMT at a shade under $8000AUD, that carries with it a murdered … ContinuedThe post The Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks like it’s been sent to put a hit on anyone that questions its (high) price point appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko Introduces the Prospex LX Limited Edition SNR045 Spring Drive Diver SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jul 15, 2020

Seiko Introduces the Prospex LX Limited Edition SNR045 Spring Drive Diver

Launched at Baselworld last year, the Seiko Prospex LX is a series of solidly-engineered sports watches conceived for air, land and sea – and designed in collaboration with Ken Okuyama, once the Creative Director at Pininfarina and one of Japan’s most prolific car designers. Powered by Seiko’s trademark Spring Drive movement, the Prospex LX Limited Edition SNR045 retains the familiar design modelled on the Seiko 1968 Hi-beat Diver, but now dressed in green. The textured dial is inspired by an underwater forest of moss pillars – nicknamed “kokebozu”, or “moss child”, by Japanese scientists – located at the bottom of a lake in Antarctica’s Skarvsnes Foreland. The “kokebozu” moss pillars in Antarctica Initial thoughts With both its dial and glossy ceramic bezel in forest green, the watch is immediately striking – and reminiscent of well-known, hulking green dive watch. The all-green dive watch is fashionable now, and Seiko is one amongst a host of brands doing it, so the colour is not unique. But Seiko executes its watches well – quality is excellent inside and out – and excels in highly-functional dive watches that perform well in legibility and usability. That sets this apart from the competition. As a sucker for textured dials, the ribbed dial pattern – meant to evoke the aquatic moss pillars – is highly appealing. It adds depth and character to what is otherwise a no-nonsense “tool” watch. I am not a fan of the power reserve in...

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Soldera Wines: Sensational Super Tuscans With A Hollywood-Worthy Backstory Quill & Pad
Jul 14, 2020

Soldera Wines: Sensational Super Tuscans With A Hollywood-Worthy Backstory

The rise of Brunello has been recent. And, arguably, the single most convincingly 100 percent Brunello example of fine wine is Soldera at Case Basse according to Ken Gargett and other wine experts. But Soldera and the region have a dramatic background, one that might not be common knowledge outside Tuscany. Read on for a Hollywood script-worthy story and mouthwatering descriptions of Super Tuscan wines you may not (yet) be acquainted with.

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MICRO MONDAYS: Spinnaker watches might just be your next sub-$1000 throwdown Time+Tide
Jul 12, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Spinnaker watches might just be your next sub-$1000 throwdown

It’s Monday in July in 2020, folks, and that means two certainties for yours truly – the first of five full weeks stuck in lockdown, and a chance to focus on another independent watchmaker. That’s right, it’s MICRO MONDAYS, and today we’re taking a closer look at a brand that is already well known in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Spinnaker watches might just be your next sub-$1000 throwdown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Two New Breguet La Tradition Models For 2020 (+ Live Photos): No Battle Of The Sexes Necessary Here Quill & Pad
Breguet La Tradition Models Jul 10, 2020

Two New Breguet La Tradition Models For 2020 (+ Live Photos): No Battle Of The Sexes Necessary Here

The drama of Breguet's La Tradition lay – and continues to lie – in its stylistically vintage appearance coupled with a movement finished using historical techniques and the extreme visibility of the mechanical components from the dial side. Here Elizabeth Doerr looks at two new models for 2020 that are bound to make you a fan of the style.

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