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IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Laureus Edition 2021 in Blue Ceramic SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Sep 2, 2021

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Laureus Edition 2021 in Blue Ceramic

Long an annual tradition for IWC – now in its 15th consecutive year in fact – the “Laureus Sport for Good” edition is back once again in its usual blue livery that echoes the emblem of the eponymous charity with the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Edition ‘Laureus Sport for Good’. Each annual Laureus edition sees IWC facelift one of its watches, from the classical Portofino to the sporty Pilot’s Watch, typically in a simple fashion with the addition of a blue dial – good enough but not quite great. This year the brand is doing something a bit more special with its entry-level aviator’s watch, which gets a blue ceramic case in a first for the brand. Initial thoughts As is typical of the IWC Pilot’s Watch, the new Laureus edition is simple, coherent and appealing. But it offers a bit more with the tone-on-tone case and dial, making it slightly more special than the standard Pilot’s Watches, or even past Laureus editions. Though IWC used a similar formula for the Laureus edition of two years ago – that had a polished, black ceramic case instead – the latest edition is tangibly better. For one, a blue ceramic case is rare, having been utilised by only a handful of watchmakers, and it also looks pretty cool. At the same time, the watch has been upgraded in technical terms. It houses the new, five-day cal. 32111, which is derived from the cal. 32115 first seen in the ultra-shock resistance Big Pilot XPL. Both are in turn modified versions of the cal. 32...

Ulysse Nardin Debuts the Marine Torpilleur 175 Years Collection SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Debuts Sep 1, 2021

Ulysse Nardin Debuts the Marine Torpilleur 175 Years Collection

Historically a major producer of marine chronometers, Ulysse Nardin has repurposed the concept in the modern day for its bestselling line of wristwatches that retain the face of a marine chronometer while having in-house movements and eminently reasonable prices. For its 175th anniversary, Ulysse Nardin has unveiled the Marine Torpilleur 175 Years collection, a suite of limited-edition watches starting with an affordable base model and ending with a range-topping tourbillon featuring a fired-enamel dial. Initial thoughts Originally introduced as an entry-level Marine model – it was named after a torpedo boat – the Marine Torpilleur has been successful enough that it’s now an entire anniversary line up. The expansion of the line is a good thing, because the Torpilleur is classically handsome and generally good value. All the Torpilleur models are largish at 42 mm in diameter, but most are slim, with heights of about 11 mm, though the chronograph is understandably wider and thicker. As a result, they appear relatively thin on the wrist, especially for a sporty watch. The tourbillon with a black enamel dial, and next to it a vintage Ulysse Nardin chronometer pocket watch with tourbillon regulator And the watches are all equipped with high-spec in-house movements, which is a big factor in their value propositions. Even the base model, which costs US$8,200 in its simplest version, is equipped with the UN-118, a movement that has a silicon hairspring and escapement, along...

Follow us at Geneva Watch Days 2021, starting right now with MB&F; madness and Moser magic Time+Tide
MB&F; Aug 31, 2021

Follow us at Geneva Watch Days 2021, starting right now with MB&F; madness and Moser magic

At first it was so strange. And it had the drama, the inevitability, of a tipping point being reached. SIHH’s changed name. Basel stumbled, fell, then disintegrated into dust. COVID-19 hit, everything stopped. Then out of these ashes, Geneva Watch Days 2020 emerged. I was unable to go, along with anyone from our Australian team, … ContinuedThe post Follow us at Geneva Watch Days 2021, starting right now with MB&F; madness and Moser magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda PF Collection SJX Watches
Breguet inspired Aug 30, 2021

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda PF Collection

When I spoke with Parmigiani chief executive Guido Terreni earlier this year, he described his plans for the brand’s product as having a “new direction for design, which is less ostentatious”, adding that Parmigiani will ” go back to the craft and excellence of the early days… with an eye on the world of today.” With the new Tonda PF collection launched to mark Parmigiani’s 25th anniversary, Mr Terreni appears to have pulled it off. Made up of four watches – ranging from a time-only to a pricey split-seconds – the Tonda PF is a synthesis of Parmigiani’s recent integrated-bracelet sports watch and its earlier Toric timepieces that were classical and Breguet inspired. The result is a sleek case and integrated bracelet matched with a refined yet minimalist guilloche dial featuring solid-gold hands and indices. Initial thoughts In a review two months ago, I wrote that liked the Tonda GT sports watch, though I thought the dial could be done better in several ways. The new Tonda PF does exactly that. It keeps everything that was good with the Tonda GT and enhances the rest. The dial has been stripped of superfluous elements while gaining a barleycorn engine turning. In fact, the dial is almost Moser-ish in its restraint, with the only marking being a small “PF” logo, which is made of solid 18k gold. And the upgrades in materials continue with the case, with all the steel model getting a knurled platinum bezel. And the movements have been enhanced. The...

Five kid-friendly watches to get them started young Time+Tide
Aug 29, 2021

Five kid-friendly watches to get them started young

Many of us share a love for watches and horology. That love doesn’t go unnoticed; especially by a younger generation that both figuratively and literally looks up to us. It should be of no surprise then, when your son, daughter, niece or nephew start asking you questions about why you collect, what you collect and … ContinuedThe post Five kid-friendly watches to get them started young appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: Grand Seiko’s time only trio of limited edition green machines Time+Tide
Grand Seiko s time only trio Aug 28, 2021

Introducing: Grand Seiko’s time only trio of limited edition green machines

There is an appeal to a time only watch that is undeniable. The ability to pick it up at a moment’s notice, simply set the time and go, brings a sense of horological fresh air to what at times seems like too complicated a life. Add to that a manual wound movement, which hearkens back … ContinuedThe post Introducing: Grand Seiko’s time only trio of limited edition green machines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: Akio Naito, President of Seiko Watch Corporation SJX Watches
Grand Seiko which has enjoyed notably Aug 27, 2021

Interview: Akio Naito, President of Seiko Watch Corporation

An all-encompassing brand that has something for everyone, Seiko is a 140-year-old brand with a dozen or so lines spanning the price spectrum. Its flagship brand is, of course, Grand Seiko, which has enjoyed notably strong growth outside of Japan after being spun off in 2017. Now we speak with the man who was a key part of this international expansion: Akio Naito. Appointed President of the Seiko Watch Corporation (SWC) earlier this year, Mr Naito now runs the primary watch business of the Seiko group, having climbed the ranks over a four-decade career. He has held roles across various Seiko companies around the world – one of his earliest managerial roles was head of Seiko Australia starting 2002 – and was most recently deputy chief operating officer of SWC. In that role, he was responsible for international sales and marketing. It was during his tenure that Seiko brands enjoyed notably strong growth outside of Japan, most notably with Grand Seiko in America and Europe – two key markets he personally oversaw. Our founder SJX sat down with Mr Naito recently to discuss his plans for Seiko and Grand Seiko, while also touching on topics like complicated watches and the future of watch fairs. The interview has been edited for clarity and length. Mr Naito with Wako’s famous clocktower behind him SJX: I first visited Seiko’s factories in Shiojiri and Shizukuishi 10 or 12 years ago. I like to congratulate you on how the brand has developed in that time, especially Gra...

What is the ultimate two-watch collection? The Time+Tide team have their say… Time+Tide
Aug 25, 2021

What is the ultimate two-watch collection? The Time+Tide team have their say…

Today we defer to the shrewd counsel of Rob Base and DJ E-Z Rock. As the eighties hip- hop duo so wisely put it: “It takes two to make a thing go alright”. And such advice can certainly apply to your watches. If you pick with true mastery then two watches are potentially all you’d … ContinuedThe post What is the ultimate two-watch collection? The Time+Tide team have their say… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow SJX Watches
Hublot Unveils Aug 24, 2021

Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow

The most extravagant watch to date in 2021 has arrived courtesy of Hublot – the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow. Combining Hublot’s signature porthole face with the integrated bracelet introduced last year, the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow has almost every surface set with coloured gemstones. And ticking away inside is an in-house movement with a tourbillon and clear sapphire bridges. Initial thoughts Rainbow watches are the “it” watches of our era, with the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” being the most famous of the multi-coloured, gem-set timepieces. But now Hublot has taken it to the outlandish next level. The Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow is a lot, probably too much, but it’s also a stunning example of gem setting – proof comes in the form of 36 carats of stones – with an unusually interesting movement. The movement will probably be overlooked by whoever buys either of the two unique examples, but it is quite accomplished in a technical sense: an automatic tourbillon wound by a micro-rotor, with everything held in place by clear sapphire bridges. Contrasting starkly with the densely saturated case, the movement is light and airy in its layout, with its wheels appearing to be floating within the case thanks to the transparent bridges. The only glaring shortcoming in its technical features is the Etachron regulator index for the tourbillon. It’s entirely functional, but typically found in less expensive watches. Even though I would not ...

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Track 1 DLS Edition SJX Watches
Aug 20, 2021

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Track 1 DLS Edition

Having just concluded, Monterey Car Week was a series of shows and auctions, concluding with the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance. The week was the venue for Porsche 911 specialist Singer Vehicle Design to exhibit the DLS for the first time in the United States. Launched in 2018, the DLS is a Porsche 964 that’s been entirely remade to be ultra-light and ultra-aerodynamic. To go along with the car, Singer Reimagined rolled out the Track 1 DLS Edition. It’s a new take on Singer’s trademark central chronograph, reimagined to be, well, ultra-light, while retaining its recognisable case design and thoroughly original Agenhor movement. Initial thoughts Because it combines a distinct, retro design along with a truly ingenious movement, I like the Track 1 (and I own another version of the watch). The DLS is essentially a condensed version of the same thing – and it’s cool. The aesthetic is pared-back just enough, while the composite case is an interesting novelty. Though the material is common in watchmaking, it’s a first for Singer. The only shortcoming I can uncover is a philosophical one: the DLS Edition echoes its namesake automobile with lightweight materials, but unlike the car, it doesn’t make any functional changes. The movement is identical to that of the standard model, but it is admittedly an excellent and innovative movement. Still, all that’s a moot point given that the watch is only available to owners of the car, of which there will be just 75. ...

Introducing Loupe This, a highly evolved online watch auction platform for buyers and sellers Time+Tide
Aug 20, 2021

Introducing Loupe This, a highly evolved online watch auction platform for buyers and sellers

It was Voltaire that said: “If God did not exist, it would be necessary to invent him”. The same can be said of watch auctions and two people of note in the watch industry, collector and dealer Eric Ku and retailer Justin Gruenberg.  An online auction platform that worked for them did not exist, so … ContinuedThe post Introducing Loupe This, a highly evolved online watch auction platform for buyers and sellers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Arken Instrumentum is a titanium tough and future-proof debut Time+Tide
Aug 15, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Arken Instrumentum is a titanium tough and future-proof debut

The Arken Instrumentum ref. 1020 might be exactly what you’re after if you are feeling the need for something rugged and fiercely contemporary. With the strong looks of a resilient tool watch, the 300m depth rating of this debut tough guy means it’ll take a beating and live to tell the tale on your post-pandemic … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Arken Instrumentum is a titanium tough and future-proof debut appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rihanna revealed to be worth $1.7B, so what is in this new billionaire’s watch collection? Time+Tide
Aug 5, 2021

Rihanna revealed to be worth $1.7B, so what is in this new billionaire’s watch collection?

Yesterday, Forbes revealed that singer Robyn Fenty, a.k.a Rihanna, is now worth $1,700,000,000 – and it can largely be attributed to her efforts and entrepreneurship outside of music. As a 50% shareholder of the Fenty Beauty, the other 50% notably held by the LVMH group, $1,400,000,000 of her net worth is derived from her beauty … ContinuedThe post Rihanna revealed to be worth $1.7B, so what is in this new billionaire’s watch collection? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Week On The Wrist: How the DOXA Sub 300 Divingstar inspired me to buy SCUBA gear Time+Tide
Doxa Sub 300 Divingstar inspired Aug 5, 2021

A Week On The Wrist: How the DOXA Sub 300 Divingstar inspired me to buy SCUBA gear

On my wrist is something that embodies many a daydream. Jaques-Yves Costeau, Dirk Pitt, sixties cool and the carefree life of mid-century Europe in the summer. Can the tasty lemon of the DOXA Sub 300 Divingstar serve up all this in its compact dial, and make it come to life? It might seem a tall … ContinuedThe post A Week On The Wrist: How the DOXA Sub 300 Divingstar inspired me to buy SCUBA gear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Patek Philippe Nautilus Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus Recently Aug 3, 2021

DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Patek Philippe Nautilus

Recently on our weekly room The Breakfast Club on Clubhouse (Friday 8pm EST / Saturday 10am AEST), we spoke at length about purchasing principles. The question we explored was what do you do when a watch is not readily available at retail. Do you queue up and wait it out? Do you cough up the hefty … ContinuedThe post DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Patek Philippe Nautilus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Five Bremont watches to check out in the metal Time+Tide
Bremont watches Jul 30, 2021

Five Bremont watches to check out in the metal

The pandemic has really taken a toll on businesses around the world, with many consumers locked down and unable to visit storefronts in person. In terms of watches, this has proved a real shame as it is always fun to pop into your local boutique and go hands-on with some novelties in the metal. Fortunately, … ContinuedThe post Five Bremont watches to check out in the metal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Commissioning A Watch: My Journey With The Kari Voutilainen Masterpiece Chronograph II - Reprise Quill & Pad
Voutilainen Jul 25, 2021

Commissioning A Watch: My Journey With The Kari Voutilainen Masterpiece Chronograph II - Reprise

In late February 2010, an informal group of Northern California watch collectors, all owners of at least one Kari Voutilainen watch, met for lunch. One of the members of the group nonchalantly mentioned, "I've been talking with Kari about something . . ." It was a set of bespoke Kari Voutilainen Masterpiece Chronograph II models. GaryG's response two seconds later: "I'm in!" So how did it go after that?

A. Lange & Söhne Unveils the Saxonia Thin Aventurine in Pink Gold SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 13, 2021

A. Lange & Söhne Unveils the Saxonia Thin Aventurine in Pink Gold

Three months after Watches & Wonders 2021 (where it debuted the Triple Split in pink gold amongst others), A. Lange & Söhne is now back with more new releases, as is now the norm with watch fairs having gone online. Of the trio of new launches, the Saxonia Thin is the simplest, but no less striking. Clad in lively, blue aventurine glass and pink gold, the watch has a rich, sparkly aesthetic quite antithetical to the fuss-free style usually associated with the German watchmaker. Initial thoughts While flourishes like the aventurine-glass dial are uncommon for Lange in general, the sparkly glass dial is not new. In fact, the material was first used in the white gold Saxonia Thin back in 2017. The brand followed up with the same but with a black aventurine-glass dial last December, and then the pair of Little Lange 1 Moon Phase earlier this year. That’s four models with aventurine glass dials in as many years. The new model is a first, in that it matches the blue aventurine-glass dial with a pink gold case, giving the watch a warm aesthetic not found in earlier versions, or even the broader catalogue where the combination of pink gold and blue is found only on the recent Triple Split. This is no doubt a good news for collectors that already have everything from the brand and want something different. Still, the frequency of aventurine-glass inevitably chips away at its uniqueness. One nitpick I have about the watch is personal – I find the Saxonia Thin too wide and f...

The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic takes a bold leap into the future Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Jul 8, 2021

The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic takes a bold leap into the future

In 2017, Rado decided to bring back their 1960s classic, the Captain Cook diver. Sparking positive reactions from the watch media, while making a strong connection with many a vintage watch lover’s heart, it became an instant success. Subsequently, Rado has refused to rest on their laurels by continuously evolving the line. We have seen … ContinuedThe post The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic takes a bold leap into the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Prepare to be mesmerised by the dial of the Laine 1817 engraved first series Time+Tide
Jul 7, 2021

Prepare to be mesmerised by the dial of the Laine 1817 engraved first series

Torsti Laine is a relatively fresh face on the independent watchmaking scene, releasing his first watches back in 2016, but he’s quickly made a name for himself  by offering affordable and customisable watches. Born in Finland, Laine was a computer programmer before he turned his hand to watchmaking, enrolling in the Kelloseppäkoulu Finnish School of … ContinuedThe post Prepare to be mesmerised by the dial of the Laine 1817 engraved first series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Only Watch 2021: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon

An inventive watchmaker based in Russia, Konstantin Chaykin has combined two of his most notable timepieces to create a unique wristwatch for Only Watch 2021. Bearing a face that resembles his signature Joker, the Martian Tourbillon tells the time on Mars, just like the Mars Conquerer he debuted last year. More intriguingly, the watch is equipped with a tourbillon regulator that makes one revolution every Martian minute – or 61.65 seconds. Initial thoughts Konstantin never fails to impress with his unorthodox approach to watchmaking. The Martian Tourbillon lives up to that reputation. It is quirky, odd, and thoroughly interesting. Given that it indicates time on Mars, its utility here on Earth will be limited, but the Martian Tourbillon encapsulates Konstantin’s versatile and comprehensive approach to a unique timepiece for Only Watch (which was very much the case for his 2019 creation). The Martian Tourbillon even incorporates a literal Martian tourbillon regulator, while having a case made of medieval Russian steel. The only images available of the watch for now are renderings, but I very much look forward to seeing this in person. Martian face The face of the watch indicates the hours on the left sub-dial, while minutes are within the right sub-dial. Just below the “nose” is a half-month indicator for the Darian calendar, invented by aerospace engineer Thomas Gangale for future human colonisers of the Red Planet. And the “smile” indicates sols, or Martian...

Only Watch 2021: Atelier de Chronométrie AdC21 SJX Watches
Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Atelier de Chronométrie AdC21

Founded to give new life to vintage chronometer movements and resurrect old-school designs, Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) has completed only a few watches to date, but has quickly become known for wristwatches that are elegantly refined inside and out. In its inaugural outing at Only Watch, the watchmaker put together the AdC21, a time-only watch that is simple but executed with lavish detail, and dressed in a nostalgic, “pink on pink” livery. Like AdC’s other creations, the AdC21 is powered by a movement that started life as a vintage ébauche before being upgraded with parts fabricated by hand in-house. And the movement has been finished to level far beyond what the vintage calibre ever was. Initial thoughts AdC watches are intrinsically appealing to enthusiasts who favour old-school dress watches, which often have discreet, refined details that are uncommon in contemporary watches. One of the brand’s cofounders is a vintage watch dealer whose eye and experience explain the house style. At the same time, AdC elevates the design with the artisanal quality of the case and movement, most of which are made in house. The AdC21 is arguably the best time-only watch the brand has created to date. Entirely classical yet novel, the dial has a two-tone finish matched with an unusual interpretation of the “scientific” dial. And the case is also more elaborately constructed than those found on AdC’s earlier works. Beyond the design and craft, the shades of pink that d...