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Watches & Wonders 2023 Round Table: What We Liked and Didn’t Like at the World’s Biggest Watch Fair Quill & Pad
Apr 8, 2023

Watches & Wonders 2023 Round Table: What We Liked and Didn’t Like at the World’s Biggest Watch Fair

Watches and Wonders 2023 ran from Monday, March 27 to Saturday, April 1 at Palexpo in Geneva and was open to the public on the 1st and 2nd of April. It attracted a record 43,000 visitors! That’s nearly double last year’s 22,000 visitors, largely thanks to the opening up of China and Asian countries after the COVID-19 pandemic. The Quill & Pad team was there, and we sat down after the show to discuss what we liked and didn’t like about the 2023 fair.

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SJX W&W; Highlights – Value Propositions and The Not-Quite SJX Watches
Louis Erard stands out Apr 7, 2023

SJX W&W; Highlights – Value Propositions and The Not-Quite

Maybe unsurprising given the state of the industry – watchmakers enjoyed record sales in 2022 – value buys were few at Watches & Wonders (W&W;) this year. Amongst the independent watchmakers, just two stood out for being value buys, the Kudoke 3 and Urwerk UR-102 “Reloaded” – both of which I covered in my highlights amongst the indies. Not quite an independent watchmaker but niche nonetheless, Louis Erard stands out for the Excellence Marqueterie. Probably the best value amongst its many limited editions, the Excellence Marqueterie brings the art of wood marquetry to a previously unheard of price segment. Although it costs only about US$4,000, the Excellence Marqueterie features a dial decorated with tiny pieces of exotic wood that have been sawn and applied by hand to form an M.C. Escher-like pattern. The Excellence Marqueterie. Image – Louis Erard Like most other niche brands, Louis Erard exhibited outside the halls of W&W;, where all of the establishment brands were located. Amongst the big names, only Tudor offered substantial value with its new models, although that is not news in itself since value is a fundamental characteristic of the brand. (Though it is arguable that Rolex offers strong value in all its models regardless of price, but certainly not as much as Tudor.) Two watches stood out amongst Tudor’s 2023 line-up. One is the Black Bay 54, a watch clearly conceived by aficionados with an eye for detail. Just 37 mm in diameter, it resembles a vinta...

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SJX W&W; Highlights – The Unexpected and the Well-Executed SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Apr 7, 2023

SJX W&W; Highlights – The Unexpected and the Well-Executed

Because it was the world’s biggest watch brands showing off their latest products at Watches & Wonders (W&W;), surprises seemed unlikely. Yet there were a few surprises at the fair, with several coming from the most conservative brand of all, Rolex, which debuted the now infamous “Bubbles” and “Puzzle”. But the unexpected aside, the fair also saw a number of well-executed new models that were just right, most notably from Cartier, which stuck to what it does well. The Tank Normale in yellow gold with a matching bracelet Surprises A surprise launch, but certainly not unexpected as a highlight, is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time ref. 5224R. Although it appears to be a typical Calatrava at a distance, the ref. 5224R is elegantly different. For one, it is surprisingly large for a Calatrava at 42 mm but typically thin at under 9 mm. The ref. 5224R More unusual is the 24-hour display that is a convenient and smart method of showing two time zones without the need for a day and night indicator. But as is often the case with Patek Philippe, the novelty of the watch was not invented. Its key features, namely the time display and case size, are rooted in history – the watch is modelled on the oversized Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches of the early 20th century. But at over US$57,000, the ref. 5224R is unusually expensive for a two-time zone watch, though that is explained in part by the high-end movement inside that’s shared with the top-of-t...

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Brew’s Latest Metric, in PVD Black, is Inspired by 1980s Car Culture and the Sportiest Metric Yet Worn & Wound
Brew s Latest Metric Apr 5, 2023

Brew’s Latest Metric, in PVD Black, is Inspired by 1980s Car Culture and the Sportiest Metric Yet

Brew’s Metric chronograph has become one of the biggest watch hits in the microbrand space since its introduction just a few years ago. The cycle of restock to sellout has been basically uninterrupted since the Metric made its debut in the summer of 2021, and the line recently saw an expansion with a gold plated version that rewired our expectations of what this watch can be. Now, just a few months out from that gold Metric, Brew has dropped a version in black PVD directly inspired by brand founder Jonathan Ferrer’s love of car culture.  All of the Metrics have a solidly vintage infused vibe, but this one is squarely placed in the 80s, and anyone who has spent any amount of time thinking about cars from that decade will immediately understand the connections Brew is making in the design of this watch. The design is overtly sporty, with bright red accents inspired by instrument clusters on 1980s 911s contrasting sharply with the matte black dial and case. The blasted steel pushers and crown dramatically set off the case, and give the watch a tool-like sensibility. But it’s the sleekness of the black coating on the case and bracelet that does the heavy lifting in connecting this watch to 80s sports cars.  Something that we’ve always appreciated about the Metric is its fidelity to a style of sports watch that became popular in the 1970s, watches with shaped cases in sizes that by today’s standards would be considered a bit undersized, but in their day would have j...

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Watches and Wonders Affordable Titanium Alternatives From The Shop Worn & Wound
Zenith joined Apr 5, 2023

Watches and Wonders Affordable Titanium Alternatives From The Shop

That’s a wrap. Watches and wonders is now behind us and one of the biggest takeaways from the fair was a continued emphasis on titanium. From IWC’s premium Ingenieur to Rolex and their new Yacht-Master. Even Zenith joined in with their new Defy Revival Shadow. Clearly, the larger brands are going to continue exploring their use of this light and strong material. That’s a wrap. Watches and wonders is now behind us and one of the biggest takeaways from the fair was a continued emphasis on titanium. From IWC’s premium Ingenieur to Rolex and their new Yacht-Master. Even Zenith joined in with their new Defy Revival Shadow. Clearly, the larger brands are going to continue exploring their use of this light and strong material. The post Watches and Wonders Affordable Titanium Alternatives From The Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Australian Grand Prix – TAG Heuer affirms top watch sponsor spot with more Red Bull dominance, and I live out a childhood dream Time+Tide
TAG Heuer affirms top watch sponsor Apr 4, 2023

Australian Grand Prix – TAG Heuer affirms top watch sponsor spot with more Red Bull dominance, and I live out a childhood dream

Last weekend, the Australian Grand Prix took place in Melbourne’s picturesque surroundings of Albert Park. We got an incredible spectacle, too, with plenty of drama and one of the most confusing endings in recent times – reminiscent of that controversial night in Abu Dhabi. Despite the action-packed race, most people’s predictions of a Red Bull … ContinuedThe post Australian Grand Prix – TAG Heuer affirms top watch sponsor spot with more Red Bull dominance, and I live out a childhood dream appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Bulgari’s Precious and Striking Tourbillon models present three variations of the complication Time+Tide
Bulgari s Precious Apr 3, 2023

Bulgari’s Precious and Striking Tourbillon models present three variations of the complication

Bulgari flexes their haute horlogerie muscles with four high-end tourbillon-equipped pieces The Precious Naturalia and Precious Tourbillon Lumière show off natural gemstone beauty in rose gold cases Combining titanium and sapphire, the Striking Tourbillon Sapphire and Striking Papillon Tourbillon go for a futuristic look Cementing themselves as an unquestionable champion of fashion-brand-turned-high-end-watchmakers, Bulgari has been … ContinuedThe post Bulgari’s Precious and Striking Tourbillon models present three variations of the complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Grand Seiko TAG Heuer Lange Apr 2, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep.43: Rolex, Tudor, Oris, and More From Watches & Wonders 2023

It’s time. That’s right, it’s episode 43. The most special number. Why? Well, this A Week in Watches is coming to you from the halls of Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. Since it’s a different venue, and there were a lot of launches, we took a slightly different approach. More, shorter stories, and more hosts! Yep, this episode has Blake Buettner, Zach Kazan, and Zach Weiss. What do we cover? Lots of stuff. Rolex, Tudor, Grand Seiko, TAG Heuer, Lange, and Oris, so buckle up. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The post A Week in Watches Ep.43: Rolex, Tudor, Oris, and More From Watches & Wonders 2023 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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The Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic in green and gold is retro chic Time+Tide
Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic Apr 2, 2023

The Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic in green and gold is retro chic

The new Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic is now also available in green and gold PVD. The DS-2 Chronograph is based on the vintage DS-2 Chronolympic reference 8601 800. The green and gold colour scheme perfectly fits the retro tonneau case. Certina’s expansion of their vintage-inspired sports watch catalogue is an exciting prospect for those who … ContinuedThe post The Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic in green and gold is retro chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: New Chanel timepieces and jewelry presented at Watches and Wonders 2023 Revolution
Chanel timepieces Apr 1, 2023

VIDEO: New Chanel timepieces and jewelry presented at Watches and Wonders 2023

Chanel has been relentlessly advancing its watchmaking technicality. After acquiring a stake in Kenissi 2021, Chanel debuted a smaller J12 in 2022 that was powered by a movement developed by the movement-building powerhouse that is Kenissi – and this was just the start of an exhilarating partnership. Discover Watches and Wonders 2023 novelties like the […]

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Watches and Wonders Affordable GMT Alternatives From The Shop Worn & Wound
Apr 1, 2023

Watches and Wonders Affordable GMT Alternatives From The Shop

A week has nearly come and gone at Watches and Wonders. In the span of a few days, dozens of brands have released hundreds of new watches. So much has come out that at times it can feel overwhelming (unless you’re following the Worn and Wound team, where they’ve been on top of all the latest news and releases). A week has nearly come and gone at Watches and Wonders. In the span of a few days, dozens of brands have released hundreds of new watches. So much has come out that at times it can feel overwhelming (unless you’re following the Worn and Wound team, where they’ve been on top of all the latest news and releases). The post Watches and Wonders Affordable GMT Alternatives From The Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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VIDEO: The Highlife Worldtimer and Classics Tourbillon Manufacture by Frederique Constant Revolution
Frederique Constant Niels Eggerding Managing Director Mar 31, 2023

VIDEO: The Highlife Worldtimer and Classics Tourbillon Manufacture by Frederique Constant

Niels Eggerding. Managing Director at Frederique Constant, shares with Revolution Founder Wei Koh the novelties that his brand presented at Watches and Wonders 2023. These include the 41mm Highlife Worldtimer in 18k rose gold or steel, powered by the automatic FC-718 Manufacture with 38-hour power reserve and limited to 35 pieces for the gold model; […]

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VIDEO: New Reverso Chronographs and Tourbillons unveiled by Jaeger-LeCoultre at Watches and Wonders 2023 Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoultre Mar 31, 2023

VIDEO: New Reverso Chronographs and Tourbillons unveiled by Jaeger-LeCoultre at Watches and Wonders 2023

Catherine Rénier, CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, takes Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution, through the Watches and Wonders 2023 novelties of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Timepieces that La Grande Maison presented at this preeminent watch fair included the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon, Reverso Tribute Small Seconds and the 10-piece limited edition Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179. The […]

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The HYT Conical Tourbillon is a visual blend of horology and science fiction Time+Tide
HYT Mar 31, 2023

The HYT Conical Tourbillon is a visual blend of horology and science fiction

The new HYT Conical Tourbillon culminates HYT’s decade of technological advancement. Their exclusive mechanical fluidic technology blends seamlessly alongside traditional techniques such as glassblowing. The Conical Tourbillon is accentuated by a series of animated flying orbs. Despite a few rocky years including bankruptcy and resurrection, the unparalleled brand HYT is celebrating a decade of innovation … ContinuedThe post The HYT Conical Tourbillon is a visual blend of horology and science fiction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: Grand Seiko presents new chronograph, diver and métiers d’art watches at Watches and Wonders 2023 Revolution
Grand Seiko presents new chronograph diver Mar 31, 2023

VIDEO: Grand Seiko presents new chronograph, diver and métiers d’art watches at Watches and Wonders 2023

Let’s take a moment to appreciate the technical complexity of the new Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001, the brand’s first fully mechanical chronograph that Grand Seiko developed entirely in-house. This vertical clutch column wheel chronograph has been rigorously tested and boasts a standard +5/-3 daily deviation. Its 9SC5 movement is a high-beat 5Hz movement accurate to […]

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VIDEO: Chopard presents opulent new renditions of the Happy Sport and l’Heure du Diamant Revolution
Chopard presents opulent new renditions Mar 31, 2023

VIDEO: Chopard presents opulent new renditions of the Happy Sport and l’Heure du Diamant

The women’s novelties presented by Chopard at Watches and Wonders 2023 were truly dazzling, starting with the Happy Sport, a popular watch collection by the maison that lets its diamonds prance freely across a hand-finished dial. Next, Revolution Editor-at-Large Eleonor Picciotto shows us a new marquise-cut diamond-set version of l’Heure du Diamant, followed by an […]

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New Rolex Day-Date 36 model go old-school and very funky Time+Tide
Rolex Day-Date 36 model go Mar 31, 2023

New Rolex Day-Date 36 model go old-school and very funky

If the bubbly Oyster Perpetual wasn’t quite whimsical enough for you, or was not the right type of colourful – Rolex has got you covered. Introduced in two new variants, it revives the funky stone dials of the 1970s and fully enters the realm of quirky with high-end champlevé enamel dials – emojis and inspirational … ContinuedThe post New Rolex Day-Date 36 model go old-school and very funky appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: New Hublot timepieces presented by CEO Ricardo Guadalupe at Watches and Wonders 2023 Revolution
Hublot timepieces presented Mar 31, 2023

VIDEO: New Hublot timepieces presented by CEO Ricardo Guadalupe at Watches and Wonders 2023

Revolution Editor-at-Large Eleonor Picciotto and Revolution Founder Wei Koh met up with Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe to get a closer look at Hublot’s diverse array of novelties that the brand presented at Watches and Wonders 2023. They got their hands on eye-catching new Hublot timepieces like the Big Bang Integrated Blue Sapphire, Big Bang Integrated […]

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VIDEO: Christian Selmoni introduces Vacheron Constantin complications at Watches and Wonders 2023 Revolution
Vacheron Constantin complications Mar 30, 2023

VIDEO: Christian Selmoni introduces Vacheron Constantin complications at Watches and Wonders 2023

Vacheron Constantin’s Heritage and Style Director Christian Selmoni presents the Vacheron Constantin Double Retrograde mechanism, which is now available in both the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony and the Vacheron Constantin styles of watch. In this video, Mr Selmoni also shows Revolution Founder Wei Koh the Traditionelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Open Face, a 41mm pink gold watch […]

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VIDEO: The new Trilobe Une Folle Journée Diamant and Trilobe Une Folle Journée Dune Revolution
Trilobe Mar 30, 2023

VIDEO: The new Trilobe Une Folle Journée Diamant and Trilobe Une Folle Journée Dune

Trilobe is a trailblazer in the world of unusual timetelling, and its pieces are extremely lightweight at that. Discover the new versions of the Trilobe Une Folle Journée together with Revolution Founder Wei Koh and Trilobe Founder Gautier Massonneau. Presented at Watches and Wonders 2023, the Trilobe Une Folle Journée Diamant has diamond-set rings, while […]

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