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Dive Watches are Back in the Zenith Defy Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Collection Here’s Apr 13, 2024

Dive Watches are Back in the Zenith Defy Collection

Here’s a thing you may or may not know about Watches & Wonders: there are very few genuine surprises once we hit the Palexpo floor. Almost every brand (Rolex, Tudor, and Patek are the big holdouts) send press releases to media weeks before the show so coverage can be prepped. By the time we walk into a meeting with virtually any brand exhibiting, we already have the key information on their new novelties and are just looking for additional context, hands-on impressions, and an opportunity to get those all important photos. But sometimes brands hold back a release or two, and this will sometimes result in the kind of extremely welcome surprise I experienced when I visited Zenith early this week. One of my favorite brands has dive watches again.  We already told you about the Defy Skyline Chronograph, but in addition to that watch Zenith had an even bigger (literally and figuratively) Defy up their sleeve. The new Defy Extreme Diver represents the brand’s long awaited return to the dive watch category, and they’ve done it where you’d expect: within the highly technical and sometimes brazen Defy range. The new Extreme Diver has an imposing 42.5mm titanium case with the characteristic 12 sided bezel common to other Defys, and outside this fixed bezel we get a ceramic dive bezel. The case is rated to an extremely unnecessary 600 meters, which is the same depth as the original Defy diver, the A3648, from 1969.  The dial utilizes the star pattern that has become standar...

Chris-Grainger Herr talks Hans Zimmer and eternity at the IWC Watches and Wonders 2024 booth Time+Tide
IWC Watches Apr 12, 2024

Chris-Grainger Herr talks Hans Zimmer and eternity at the IWC Watches and Wonders 2024 booth

There are 54 brands displaying at Watches & Wonders this year, and each of them has designed and built a custom booth, all trying to communicate their values and key releases in the most memorable way possible. IWC has never disappointed in the past, always creating evocative spaces, and this year is no different. Occupying … ContinuedThe post Chris-Grainger Herr talks Hans Zimmer and eternity at the IWC Watches and Wonders 2024 booth appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Promenade, a New Collection from Czapek Worn & Wound
Czapek Czapek & Cie has Apr 11, 2024

Introducing the Promenade, a New Collection from Czapek

Czapek & Cie. has been on a bit of a run, and they don’t appear to be slowing down anytime soon, at least if today’s new release is anything to go by. Czapek already had a hit on their hands this year with the release of the gold Antarctique at the end of last month, and now they are looking to plug what has been a serious hole in their lineup with the new Promenade collection. Until today, if I had asked you to pick a straightforward three-hander in the Czapek catalog, your options would have been limited to variations of the Antarctique. That’s definitely not a bad thing, but the integrated bracelet thing isn’t for everyone. The Promenade bridges the gap between the Antarctique and the Quai des Bergues, offering the Antarctique’s micro-rotor SXH5 movement in a more traditional package for the first time. While The Promenade may share its movement with the Antarctique, the case shape of the new collection is a clear evolution of the Quai des Bergues. The Promenade maintains a lot of the signature visual characteristics of the Quai des Bergues case, including the recessed case flanks, rounded crown guards, and contrasting sandblasted and polished finishing that set the Quai des Bergues apart. Of course, there are definite differences. The Promenade has slimmer bezels, a refined lug architecture, and a sloped chapter ring that all contribute to a ‘slimmer’ look for the Promenade when held up to the Quai des Bergues. This contrast is reinforced by the Promenade...

TAG Heuer Introduces a Gold Version of the Skipper Carrera Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Introduces Apr 11, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces a Gold Version of the Skipper Carrera

It is no secret that one of the star releases at last year’s Watches & Wonders was the Tag Heuer Carrera Skipper Chronograph, featuring their new glassbox design. This watch remains ever popular, as one year later, retailers still cannot keep them in inventory. Not willing to rest on their laurels, for 2024, Tag Heuer is releasing a solid gold version of the Carrera Skipper Chronograph. Made of 18K 5N rose gold, dimensions are 39mm in diameter, 46mm from lug-to-lug, and just under 14mm thick. Revealed through its sapphire display back is the in-house chronograph movement Heuer 02 (Ref.TH20-00). It features a bi-directional winding, a new shield-shaped rotor, and an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Its distinctive blue dial features a green, orange, teal blue color lacquered regatta count-down indicator at 3 o’clock, a teal blue color lacquered hour totalizer at 9 o’clock, and a blue permanent second indicator at 6 o’clock. All hands and indices are also made of 18K 5N rose gold. This new Carrera Chronograph Skipper brings a new level of luxury and collectability to TAG Heuer’s signature chronograph. Retail pricing for the tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Skipper is 21,500 USD, for more information visit www.tagheuer.com. Images from this post: The post TAG Heuer Introduces a Gold Version of the Skipper Carrera appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Introducing: The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon - The Brand’s First Lunar Flirtation Fratello
Laurent Ferrier Apr 11, 2024

Introducing: The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon - The Brand’s First Lunar Flirtation

My theoretical-wrist-grail taste has evolved, as has the watch-collecting community. In the face of unavailability and client-selective ADs, independent choices have come to the fore. And despite the shaky world markets, plenty of potential buyers are looking for alternatives outside the big-brand catalogs. Debuting back in 2010 with distinctively minimal luxury and the world’s best-looking […] Visit Introducing: The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon - The Brand’s First Lunar Flirtation to read the full article.

Introducing: The New Czapek Promenade Collection - A Minimalist Approach Defined By Interesting Details Fratello
Czapek Promenade Collection - Apr 10, 2024

Introducing: The New Czapek Promenade Collection - A Minimalist Approach Defined By Interesting Details

A small brand like Czapek does not release a new product line often. That’s why every new one is special. Czapek found inspiration within its portfolio for the new Promenade collection. It fuses influences from the Quai des Bergues and the Antarctique lines. The result is a new line of watches that combines many details […] Visit Introducing: The New Czapek Promenade Collection - A Minimalist Approach Defined By Interesting Details to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture Apr 10, 2024

Introducing – The New Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture

The moon phase indicator and date combination is a flagship model at Frederique Constant, appearing with the launch of the brand’s second manufacture movement in 2005. Early models, like the Heart Beat Manufacture, were equipped with the brand’s hand-wound moon phase and date movement (FC-915). Evolving over the years and replacing the manual-winding movement with […]

The Oris Aquis Date Collection Has Now Been Updated For 2024 Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oris Aquis Date Collection Has Apr 9, 2024

The Oris Aquis Date Collection Has Now Been Updated For 2024

Oris is one of those brands that we love to talk about here at TBWS, simply for the fact that the team always seems happy to just do their own thing. This year, instead of doing something big and flashy, Oris has moved to update their vast catalog of Oris Aquis Date models for 2024. It's a key collection and this kind of care ensures that the watches don't become stale, as Oris aims to put out the best that they possibly can. The Aquis is just a great, sturdy dive watch from an independent brand and these new models are available in 43.5mm, 41.5mm, and 36.5mm case sizes with a bunch of dial color options and a choice to go with the in-house Oris Caliber 400 on the 43.5mm version. Let's try to wrap our heads around this.

Montblanc Introduces their New CARBO2 Case Material in the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Montblanc Introduces their New CARBO2 Apr 9, 2024

Montblanc Introduces their New CARBO2 Case Material in the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Limited Edition

Montblanc has just released the limited-edition 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen. This latest release blends the spirit of mountain exploration, a tribute to the historical Minerva pocket watches and chronographs designed in the 1920s and 1930s for military purposes, with cutting-edge technology that has continued to define the Montblanc brand in recent releases.  The hallmark of this new model is its innovative case material, CARBO2, created through an eco-conscious process that transforms CO2 captured from bio-gas and mineral waste into a durable composite when mixed with carbon fiber. This pioneering material not only sets a new standard in sustainable luxury watchmaking but also boasts a striking dark hue that perfectly complements the adventurous essence of the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen. The watch’s dial, inspired by glacial textures, is crafted using the gratté-boisé technique for an intricate effect that mirrors the complexity of ice crystals. The dial is complemented by white luminescent black rhodium-coated Arabic numerals and indexes, white luminescent rhodium-coated hours and minutes hands, a white luminescent dual time hand, and luminescent Northern and Southern hemispheres globes with blue Greenwich meridians. It is this set of small details that show the precision and focus of Montblanc with their luxury-end watches. In fact, one extremely intriguing feature is the side engraving of Mont Blanc Mountain, visible only to the wearer, which glows luminously i...

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT - By Very Popular Request Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Apr 9, 2024

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT - By Very Popular Request

Almost ever since the Tudor Black Bay 58 came out, people have been craving a GMT version. But, of course, this isn’t the first GMT watch in Tudor’s collection. The regular 41mm Black Bay GMT debuted in 2018. After that, the smaller 39mm Black Bay Pro showed its face in 2022. However, both of those […] Visit Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT - By Very Popular Request to read the full article.

Hot Take: Rolex 1908 In Platinum With A Guilloché Dial Fratello
Rolex 1908 Apr 9, 2024

Hot Take: Rolex 1908 In Platinum With A Guilloché Dial

Last year at Watches and Wonders 2023, Rolex surprised most of us with the 1908 collection. This classical, formal line of watches in 18K yellow and white gold brought a new aesthetic to the brand. We also considered it something of an opening move. Rolex was taking aim at some of the established Haute Horlogerie […] Visit Hot Take: Rolex 1908 In Platinum With A Guilloché Dial to read the full article.

IWC is Thinking Very Far Ahead with their New Portugieser Eternal Calendar Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Apr 9, 2024

IWC is Thinking Very Far Ahead with their New Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Watches that do more than a human being is capable of are nothing new. Rolex, Omega, and others make dive watches that are capable of reaching depths that no man or woman could survive. The Rolex Deepsea Challenge is rated to 11,000 meters (which means it’s tested to even greater depths) while the deepest point in the ocean is about 10,900 meters, give or take. That means this particular dive watch can go deeper than any depth possible on the planet. Even that, somehow, feels more practical than IWC’s big release at Watches & Wonders, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar. This is the brand’s first secular calendar, which accounts for leap-year exception rules in the Gregorian calendar that play out over a 400 year span. A calendar complication that no living human will have a chance to observe do its thing in real time is one thing, but it’s the moonphase on this watch that is truly looking ahead: IWC claims it’s accurate to 45 million years. And just think, it wasn’t even ten years ago that the Apple Watch had many in this industry scared that watchmaking could be killed by smart-gadgets. Talk about confidence.  The concept of a secular calendar will be worth a refresher for many, as it’s a truly rare complication that most brands simply don’t attempt given the incredibly long timeframes involved (the last one we discussed in these pages was from indie Furlan Marri). The gist is this: in addition to a leap year every four years, Gregorian calendar needs an ad...

The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph Fratello
IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Apr 9, 2024

The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph

You might have to look twice, but you’re looking at the updated IWC Portugieser Automatic 42. These models have a completely re-engineered case construction with a more slender side profile. The bezel-less watches feature double-domed box-style glass sapphire crystals for unobstructed views of the sunburst dials or the versions finished with 15 layers of transparent […] Visit The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph to read the full article.

New: Vacheron Constantin Novelties from Watches & Wonders 2024 Deployant
Vacheron Constantin Novelties from Watches & Apr 9, 2024

New: Vacheron Constantin Novelties from Watches & Wonders 2024

Vacheron Constantin introduces a host of new timepieces for 2024, including one Haute Joaillerie piece. These novelties include new variations of the Overseas, Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph, Patrimony Manual-Winding, Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date and Égérie Moon Phase, as well the Égérie The Pleats of Time concept watch and Haute Joaillerie Grand Lady Kalla. Vacheron ConstantinRead More

In-Depth: The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar Perhaps Apr 9, 2024

In-Depth: The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Perhaps the complication most associated with IWC, the perpetual calendar with its distinctive four-digit year display was introduced in 1985 in the Da Vinci. Today IWC takes the “perpetual” concept to its maximum with the Portugieser Eternal Calendar that boasts a supercharged perpetual calendar, otherwise known as a secular calendar, requiring no adjustment for a thousand years. In addition, it is equipped with a moon phase of unprecedented accuracy – a day in 45 million years. Initial thoughts Even though it appears similar to the standard Portugieser Perpetual Calendar – though it is slightly thicker and wider – the Eternal Calendar is an appealing and note-worthy proposition in terms of its technical merits. The rare complication, however, comes at preposterously steep price. Discreetly dressed in the classic Portugieser case, but the Eternal Calendar reveals a modern twist in the form of the glass dial that shows off the calendar works underneath. To accomplish that, the movement employs a sapphire bridge in the calendar module, marking the first time IWC is using the material as a structural element in a calibre. The extensive use of sapphire hints at the impressive technicality of the movement, giving a sense of tangibility to the mechanics within.  And the mechanics are certainly worth admiring. An “eternal” or secular calendar complication is appealing, for both the mechanical inclined and even the plain romantic who wants something that will go on...

The IWC Fliegerchronograph 3706 - A Trusty Companion And Neo-Vintage Gem Fratello
IWC Fliegerchronograph 3706 - Apr 6, 2024

The IWC Fliegerchronograph 3706 - A Trusty Companion And Neo-Vintage Gem

We are lucky to have reached a phase in the modern industry where the standards of mass production are such that watches can endure all sorts of conditions. The adage “they don’t make them like they used to” hasn’t entirely panned out with watchmaking, at least regarding production quality (design, aesthetics, and luxury culture certainly […] Visit The IWC Fliegerchronograph 3706 - A Trusty Companion And Neo-Vintage Gem to read the full article.

A Gear Lovers Dream: The New York Custom Knife Show Worn & Wound
Apr 5, 2024

A Gear Lovers Dream: The New York Custom Knife Show

As many people began to prepare for Easter festivities, hundreds of knife collectors, EDC Enthusiasts, and cutlery critics lined up for the 44th New York Custom Knife Show. This show, commonly referred to as NYCKS, offers an intimate setting for makers to connect with their customers and for collectors to add something special to their collections.  Even before the show begins, eager customers queue up, hoping that they can be the first to a certain booth and secure a new piece of gear. Just as people lined up for the newest MoonSwatch, EDC enthusiasts made sure to arrive bright and early. While in line, I had the opportunity to chat with several other enthusiasts and was allowed to examine some very high-end custom knives. Similarly to how watch enthusiasts are known to pass around their latest acquisitions, we all chatted and examined gear from manufacturers we might not have heard of, or hadn’t had the opportunity to purchase from. Arguably, the one thing that makes these shows so special is the opportunity to connect with people at the show, whether it’s a brand that you’ve been loyal to for years, a new vendor yet to be discovered, or meeting others interested in the hobby. On the first day, I was able to quickly catch up with some old friends, Tom from Notorious EDC and Eddie from OEG EDC. Both of these guys are solid pillars of the community, and an absolute blast to hang around. I was also able to catch up with a bunch of other content creators, including @p...

The New Ferdinand Berthoud Of 2024 Is Now Customisable? Revolution
Ferdinand Berthoud Apr 5, 2024

The New Ferdinand Berthoud Of 2024 Is Now Customisable?

In 2020, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud introduced its second collection, the Chronomètre FB 2RE. This timepiece signaled a significant milestone for the Maison, featuring the first round case, a display with three central hands, and notably, the debut of a movement with a double regulation system-a fusion of fusee-and-chain transmission with a one-second “remontoir d’égalité”. This […]

Bulova Brings their Precisionist Movement to the Marine Star Worn & Wound
Bulova Brings their Precisionist Movement Apr 4, 2024

Bulova Brings their Precisionist Movement to the Marine Star

Bulova’s latest announcement heralds a significant leap forward in the evolution of the Marine Star collection, as they integrate the groundbreaking Precisionist High-Performance Quartz technology. This milestone underscores their commitment to seamlessly blending traditional craftsmanship with state-of-the-art upgrades, showing that a brand dating back to 1875 can still find ways to improve. The collection introduces three new “Series C” styles, each featuring a robust 43mm polygon case crafted from stainless steel. Notable for their impeccable accuracy, the Precisionist movement boasts a smooth sweeping second hand, which beats an impressive 16 times per second. The vibrant dial colors-bright yellow, silver, and rich chocolate-are tonally pitch-perfect, balancing both a sporty look with a subtle richness. Each dial is enhanced by a wave pattern, inspired by the ocean. This background makes a great canvas for luminescent hour markers and bold handset. A date window at the 3 o’clock mark, a black ceramic bezel, and a bold logo at 12 complete the look of this series of watches. All watches are now available via Bulova’s website. The three watches featured in this series are all priced depending on the color and strap option. The yellow watch is paired with a black rubber strap and is priced at $695. The white dial option has a simple stainless steel bracelet, priced at $795. And, finally, the brown dial with rose gold finishes is available for $750 with a blac...