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Results for GMT & World Time

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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

Watches & Wonders: Hands-On with the Parmigiani Fleurier “Toric Anniversaire” Collection Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Anniversaire” Collection My Apr 24, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Hands-On with the Parmigiani Fleurier “Toric Anniversaire” Collection

My appointment with Parmigiani Fleurier at last year’s Watches & Wonders was one of those meetings where it all kind of clicked for me. I loved those perpetual calendars they introduced, and for the first time since I’ve been working in the watch industry, the insider hype around Parmigiani really began to make sense. They are one of the ultimate “if you know you know” brands, at least among the mainstream exhibitors at Watches & Wonders, but they had always kind of eluded me.  This year’s big novelty was a very interesting chronograph that I wrote about here. I saw that watch, of course, and it’s very special. The movement is mindblowing – there’s simply no other chronograph quite like it, and it kind of takes seeing it in action to fully comprehend. It’s ability to go from a simple time only three hander to a five handed ultra complicated never before seen chronograph execution in a literal blink of an eye (and back again) is incredibly cool.  The new Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux But, I have to say, with every Tonda PF release, I become more aware that it just isn’t the corner of Parmigiani that appeals to me. The case just doesn’t really work on my wrist or sing to me in the way other similar watches sometimes do. The Toric, on the other hand, always does. This really feels like the distillation of what the brand is about, or at least how I understand it. The case is remarkably simple at a glance, but close examination reveals that every deta...

Fratello’s Top 5 Tudor Black Bay Alternatives In 2026 Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Alternatives Apr 24, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Tudor Black Bay Alternatives In 2026

Another Friday, another list. Today, we move on from a series about alternatives to different Rolex models. But we’re staying close because, this time, we will look at alternatives to the Tudor Black Bay. It is hard to deny that the Black Bay has become a benchmark series of watches under €5,000 since its 2012 […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Tudor Black Bay Alternatives In 2026 to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Patek Philippe 50th Anniversary Nautilus Collection, Reference 5810G and 5610G Hodinkee
Patek Philippe 50th Anniversary Nautilus Collection Apr 23, 2026

Hands-On: The Patek Philippe 50th Anniversary Nautilus Collection, Reference 5810G and 5610G

Here's the thing. The 50th Anniversary Nautilus Collection was going to sell no matter what caliber was used, what case material was chosen, or what format was given. This is just a reality of the strength of Patek Philippe in the world today, and how in-demand integrated bracelet watches are. And to be clear, the Nautilus, along with the Royal Oak, set the tone long ago and remains at the pinnacle of the category. Actually, one would say the Nautilus remains at the pinnacle of *watches* in general when it comes to simple demand. It's the one that the most powerful people I know lust after the most – and I'm not saying that's good or bad, but it really just is. And here's the thing: the 40th anniversary of the Nautilus was a bit of a let-down for me. Because the Nautilus really is *the watch* for so many of us, and indeed, I am a true fan and always have been, and indeed, always will be, no matter how many dinguses I see wearing them today. 3700G Circa 1980, 5711R Circa 2015, 5811G Circa 2024 – Yes, I like the Nautilus a lot. As many of you know, the very first Patek Philippe I ever purchased was a 3940G. The very second? A Nautilus reference 3700A (I paid $18,000 for it, in a group buy with Paul Boutros, who bought a 222 for even less 😵‍💫). Some years later, I bought a very rare 3700G (I sold it to a close friend and mentor when he sold his company because it was something he'd always dreamed of owning). In 2015, when Nautiluses were still sitting in cases,...

Our Favorite Complicated Watches From Watches & Wonders 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Apr 23, 2026

Our Favorite Complicated Watches From Watches & Wonders 2026

Our editors might still be reorienting themselves to their local timezone after being on Geneva time the past week, but the challenges of Watches & Wonders Editors' Picks must continue while the show is fresh in their minds. For this edition, we tasked our editors with selecting the watch complication that has stuck with them most from this year's lineup. From the sophisticated to the decidedly playful, down below, you'll find the watch complications that have risen above the pack, as decided by our editorial team. Explore our full editorial coverage of this year's show here.  D.C. Hannay: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar Another luxury watch pick, another slam dunk for Jaeger-LeCoultre. Whichever way the wind is blowing in the Vallée de Joux, it’s been doing wonders for JLC of late, exemplified by the new Master Control Chronometre series. The brand has finally gone and made a modern, real-deal integrated luxury model, and enthusiasts are pricking up their ears. Along with the sleek Chronometre Date and the symmetrically gifted Chronometre Date Power Reserve, they’ve come up with a truly breathtaking riff on one of the most complicated complications, the Chronometre Perpetual Calendar. Absent of the hype surrounding the Royal Oak or the Nautilus, we’re presented with a beautifully balanced dial and cohesive design, packaged in a startlingly svelte 39mm case just 9.2mm thin. Also available in a glowing pink gold with a complementary br...

Introducing – New Editions of the MeisterSinger Pangaea with Textured Dials Monochrome
MeisterSinger Apr 23, 2026

Introducing – New Editions of the MeisterSinger Pangaea with Textured Dials

While not the only brand to offer watches with a single-handed time display, MeisterSinger (since 2001) is the only one to have built its entire identity around this concept. Rooted in early watchmaking traditions, long before minutes and seconds dominated the dial, the brand’s approach prioritises perception over precision. A slower, more deliberate reading of […]

Patek Philippe’s Hidden Gem Is The New Calatrava 5227G-015 Fratello
Patek Philippe s Hidden Gem Apr 23, 2026

Patek Philippe’s Hidden Gem Is The New Calatrava 5227G-015

Every year, Patek Philippe unveils an abundance of releases during Watches and Wonders. This year, it was no different, with the number of new watches far exceeding 20. I always go over all the new introductions in detail after the show because only then do I have the time to reflect on them. As a […] Visit Patek Philippe’s Hidden Gem Is The New Calatrava 5227G-015 to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V Apr 22, 2026

Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V

The new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V is a release from the brand at this year's Watches and Wonders that's gotten quite a bit of chatter, deservedly so. After all, it is the brand's thinnest-ever Overseas, thanks to a brand-new in-house movement developed over seven years, which means what I assume to be an ungodly amount of R&D; dollars per millimeter shaved. It's also come at a time when Vacheron seems to be really having a moment - the passion I saw amongst Vacheron collectors when I was in Miami last month for the opening of the brand's largest U.S. boutique was very much an exciting sight to see.  But is the final result worth all the effort? Very much so, if we take the new Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V as an ultra-limited, ultra-expensive halo product to mark the development of this new caliber. This 2500V and the Overseas Dual-Time Cardinal Points released alongside it at Watches and Wonders are already seeing very strong demand, and I think that's a sign of a good showing in Geneva. To many collectors of Vacheron over the years, the previous ultra-thin, time-only Overseas 2000V might feel like it had just come out, but in fact, a decade has passed since its introduction. Coming in white gold, the case measured 40mm in diameter, with a thickness of 7.5mm. Inside was the Vacheron 1120 caliber, a version of the JLC caliber 920 that had found its way in many watches amongst the Holy Trinity of brands, thanks to its superlative of being the thinnest aut...

Watches & Wonders: Frederique Constant Offers a Smart Update to their Classic Worldtimer Manufacture Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Offers Apr 22, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Frederique Constant Offers a Smart Update to their Classic Worldtimer Manufacture

Frederique Constant has built themselves a nice little niche delivering complicated watches at relatively affordable and impressive price points. While their perpetual calendar is probably the most impressive in terms of straight up value (somehow it still comes in under $10,000, even after years of rising prices throughout the sector) it’s the Worldtimer Manufacture that is likely their true signature. It’s a genuinely accessible complication that, at the time it was introduced, was novel in a watch well under the five figure mark.  Over the years there have been a number of variants introduced, but little has changed as far as the actual execution of the watch. That changes with the introduction of a trio of new worldtimers, all sporting the new manufacture movement, designated FC-719. The new caliber allows two nagging issues to be addressed: case size and dial clutter.  If you’re familiar with Frederique Constant’s Worldtimer Manufacture, you’ve likely already noticed that the large subdial at 6:00 displaying the date has been completely removed. A no-date worldtimer is a big change, but there’s no denying that the dial is significantly cleaner without the date. It allows the dial motif, a representation of a globe, common enough on these watches, to fully stand on its own. Dial options for this refreshed worldtimer include a limited diamond set version, a version on a strap with iridescent blue ocean waters, and a bracelet version with a more matte blue ...

Business News: Breitling’s House Of Brands Unveils New Executive Leadership With Georges Kern As Group CEO Hodinkee
Roger Dubuis Apr 22, 2026

Business News: Breitling’s House Of Brands Unveils New Executive Leadership With Georges Kern As Group CEO

'House of Brands,' the group of watchmakers including Breitling, Universal Genéve, and the soon-to-be-revived Gallet, announced executive changes that will see the flagship brand led by new leadership, with Georges Kern becoming the group's Chief Executive Officer. Jean-Marc Pontroué, a long-time Richemont executive and the former CEO of Panerai and Roger Dubuis, is the new Chief Executive Officer of Breitling, the group says in a statement. The changes take effect in May.  Georges Kern Georges Kern, who has led Breitling under new ownership since 2017, overseeing a more than doubling of annual sales to above CHF 800 million, according to analyst estimates, and one of the most dramatic turnarounds in modern watchmaking, becomes the new CEO of the House of Brands, overseeing the three marques and their leadership in a newly created role.At Universal Genève, which relaunched this month in the high-end segment in what's likely the most ambitious watch brand return and repositioning in decades, Grégory Bruttin remains Managing Director. Meanwhile, at Gallet, the approachable-priced brand known for its Flying Officer and Multichron models, to be revived in August this year, Erwan Rossignol, who is already leading the team preparing the relaunch, becomes Managing Director. The changes confirm the multi-brand ambitions of the private-equity-backed Grenchen, Switzerland-based company, and provide a structure similar to that of other groups with portfolios of several watch bra...

Business News: Timothée Chalamet Joins Urban Jürgensen As Minority Partner And Creative Advisor Hodinkee
Urban Jürgensen Apr 22, 2026

Business News: Timothée Chalamet Joins Urban Jürgensen As Minority Partner And Creative Advisor

Timothée Chalamet has gotten really deep into independent watchmaking lately. He's shown up at press events, basketball games, and on the red carpet, wearing everything from a Simon Brette to a Franck Muller and even an Akrivia AK-06. He's also been wearing a neo-vintage Urban Jürgensen from time to time. But it seems like he's always rotated back to his trusty Urban Jürgensen UJ-2, the time-only watch that launched with the brand's revival last summer. He wore the watch promoting the movie Marty Supreme, and again later, when he won the Golden Globe for Best Male Actor in a Motion Picture – Musical or Comedy for that same film. And now, in a move that makes his passion for the brand official, he's gotten on board as a minority partner and creative advisor. Timothée Chalamet wears an Urban Jürgensen UJ-2 as he attends the 83rd annual Golden Globe Awards at The Beverly Hilton on January 11, 2026 in Beverly Hills, California. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/Getty Images) In a press release provided by the brand, Alex Rosenfield, CEO of Urban Jürgensen, says that Chalamet's passion for independent watchmaking isn't just him hopping on a trend, but rather a part of his passion for craft and quality of work. "We want to work together to advance our mission of bringing a contemporary perspective to the world of independent watchmaking while remaining grounded in what has always defined it," says Rosenfield. The Urban Jürgensen UJ-2, UJ-1, and UJ-3, from our story on the brand rev...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G Apr 22, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G

Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref. 5322G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref Apr 22, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref. 5322G

Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...

First Look – The New Reservoir Mark II Series, a Stronger Identity with Integrated Design Monochrome
Reservoir Mark II Series Apr 22, 2026

First Look – The New Reservoir Mark II Series, a Stronger Identity with Integrated Design

Reservoir was launched in 2017 and quickly became known as a watchmaking brand inspired by automotive gauges, aeronautical counters and industrial manometers. Reservoir built its identity around a simple yet visually interesting concept: displaying time through jumping hours and retrograde minutes, often with a power reserve indication. Until now, that instrument’s aesthetic influence has been […]

Introducing the Lead Sponsors of Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 and So Much More! Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Apr 21, 2026

Introducing the Lead Sponsors of Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 and So Much More!

Set against the breezy waterfront backdrop of Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture, Windup Watch Fair San Francisco returns to the Gateway Pavilion. As always, it’s free, open to all, and once again poised to transform The Bay into a hub for horological discovery for the weekend. Windup invites seasoned collectors and first-time enthusiasts alike to engage directly with brands, handle watches up close, and immerse themselves in a weekend that blends craftsmanship, community, and culture in a way few events can match.  Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Friday, May 1 – Sunday, May 3, 2026 Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture San Francisco, CA Free and open to everyone. No registration necessary. With over 80 brands joining, we’d like to thank all of our sponsors, especially this year’s Lead Sponsors: Bremont, Brew, Christopher Ward, Frederique Constant, and Oris. Bremont After its introduction to Windup at last year’s NYC event, Bremont comes to San Francisco for the first time as a Lead Sponsor. Bremont brings a distinctly British sense of rugged precision with the Supernova 41mm Chronograph. Built with the brand’s aviation and military DNA in mind, the Supernova strikes a compelling balance between technical capability and refined design. Its compact 41mm case wears with versatility, while the chronograph functionality underscores Bremont’s commitment to utility-first watchmaking. Brew Brew has been a constant fixture at every Windup from d...

Watches & Wonders: Tudor Updates the Black Bay Ceramic with a New Bracelet Worn & Wound
Tudor Updates Apr 21, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Tudor Updates the Black Bay Ceramic with a New Bracelet

“So many Tudors, so little time.” That could be a bumper sticker, a tattoo, and perhaps even the Watches & Wonders motto in almost any year the event takes place. One of the real challenges of the show, at least in the very first moments of it, is deciding which Tudor releases to focus on. As we’ve discussed many times, Tudor is one of the only brands that does not give press early access to news of their new releases. Each of the last few years, their official press release has hit while our team was on the shuttle from our hotel to Palexpo for the first day of the show (where we always meet with Tudor first thing in the morning). Part of those first few hours of Watches & Wonders always involves discussing and trying to predict which of their novelties are going to be of the greatest interest to our readers.  This year, it was pretty clear that the new Monarch was going to be the most discussed new Tudor release. It’s a brand new watch, after all, with a new case and bracelet design, and a new movement. Even if it went over like a lead balloon with the public, that’s clearly the most newsworthy release and the one to lead with. The Black Bay 54 in blue also felt like it would generate a lot of discussion. And we wouldn’t have suspected it at the time, but the Royal relaunch is actually pretty major as well – those watches are much better in person than we could have imagined from the press release, and they represent a substantial investment on Tudor’s p...

Watches & Wonders: A Few Thoughts on Nostalgia, the 1990s, and Moser’s Streamliner Pump Worn & Wound
H. Moser Apr 21, 2026

Watches & Wonders: A Few Thoughts on Nostalgia, the 1990s, and Moser’s Streamliner Pump

Playing on nostalgia is nothing new for watch brands, but I’ve mostly been immune to it. Usually it’s for a period of time I wasn’t alive for, or a war I didn’t fight in, or an old car I simply don’t care about. But I’ve come to accept that I’m at an age where nostalgia for me is actually real history for many. My lived experience of hanging up phones, buying CDs that came in cardboard long boxes, and killing time in malls doing nothing at all might seem as foreign to someone 20 years younger than me as getting all misty about the Pan-Am logo does for my friends and colleagues at the heart of Gen-X.  It was inevitable that a luxury watch brand would reach back into my childhood and pull something out like the Reebok Pump. The fact that it’s H. Moser is not particularly surprising given the brand’s recent history of challenging somewhat stodgy conventions of what it means to be a “luxury” brand in the first place. But it does make me feel a little old to know that something I have such a clear memory of from my youth is fodder for the watch nostalgia marketing machine.  For those who have forgotten or are simply too young to remember, the Pump was a line of basketball shoes introduced by Reebok in the early 90s with a particularly enticing gimmick, at least to impressionable children who waited all week to watch NBA Inside Stuff every Saturday morning: the shoe’s tongue was topped with a rubber basketball “pump.” Pushing it inflated an air pock...

Introducing – The Limited-Edition IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Laureus Monochrome
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Laureus Apr 21, 2026

Introducing – The Limited-Edition IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Laureus

IWC’s Laureus watches have been available for some time now. Over the years, the brand has released them in different collections, from Pilot’s watches to Portofino models and even some more experimental pieces. What stays consistent over the years is the blue dial and the link to Laureus Sport for Good, a global initiative that […]