Time+Tide
I got the call: Deciding whether or not to buy the Rolex Oyster Perpetual “100 Years”
Bruce got the call. A Rolex Oyster Perpetual '100 Years' was his for the taking. But, would he pull the trigger? He walks us through it.
Results for The 2017-2022 Vintage Market Boom
42,849 articles · 274 videos found · page 197 of 1438
Time+Tide
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Citizen Nighthawk CA0897-04H Is The Brand’s Stealthiest Version Yet
Citizen's Nighthawk CA0897-04H goes grey-on-grey on a nylon strap. A look at the Eco-Drive pilot chrono, its specs, and more.
Monochrome
Recap - The 28th Edition of the Cartier Prize for Watchmaking Talents of Tomorrow
Several initiatives exist to promote the development and future of watchmaking, as well as to discover and support the talents of tomorrow. This is crucial to nurture the next generation of watchmakers and protect the art we love and share here on MONOCHROME. Among these initiatives is one that is particularly inspiring, the Cartier Prize […]
Deployant
New: The CITIZEN AQ4094-58L Limited Edition
The CITIZEN introduces a limited-edition model with an indigo washi paper dial hand-dyed in kachi-iro, the traditional Japanese “victory colour,” in a 40mm Super Titanium case with Cal. A060 Eco-Drive movement. 400 pieces worldwide. The following post is based on press release information. Editorial commentary appears in italics. New: The CITIZEN AQ4094-58L Limited Edition CommentaryRead More
Time+Tide
The intelligence of the hand: Inside Vacheron Constantin’s decorative arts legacy
The intelligence of the hand. It comes from ancient Greece, and it holds that manual dexterity isn't some lesser sibling to intellectual thought.
Fratello
The New Greubel Forsey Balancier QM Takes Hand-Finishing To A Whole New Level
Today, we’ll take a brief look at a stunning new timepiece. With the Balancier QM, Greubel Forsey announces a new hand-finishing standard. What’s more, this new bar applies to every component within the caliber. That’s 298 pieces! Best of all, the watch is offered in a perfectly wearable case. Shall we investigate? Greubel Forsey makes […] Visit The New Greubel Forsey Balancier QM Takes Hand-Finishing To A Whole New Level to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner - The Ferrari Conciso, The Unlikeliest Ferrari of All
Concept cars are where carmakers and designers go wild and create the craziest, most unhinged experimental vehicles you can imagine. They often showcase never-before-seen technology and ideas, provide a glimpse into design elements for future production cars, or downright do something outrageous for the sake of being outrageous. Most of these are relegated to a […]
Fratello
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Returns With A 70-Day Power Reserve
Vacheron Constantin continues its quest to revolutionize the perpetual calendar complication with the 2026-upgraded Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar. The revolutionary aspect here lies in its power reserve, which can last up to 70 days. This is not a novelty but a continuation of the efforts made for the 2019 GPHG Innovation Prize winner, which […] Visit The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Returns With A 70-Day Power Reserve to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: Re-Defining the Hype of Quiet Luxury with the Moser Streamliner Minis
There was one particular moment the Moser Streamliner clicked for me. I was fresh off my first enameling apprenticeship in the summer of 2023. At Geneva Watch Days, Moser was previewing some new models set to launch at Dubai Watch Week later that year, and one of those models was the Streamliner Small Seconds Aqua Blue. As a refresher, this is a standard mid-size 39mm build, but most importantly, it introduced an enamel dial to the collection for the first time. Let’s be clear, this isn’t any ordinary enamel dial. It starts with a hand-hammered solid gold base topped with three varying pigments of translucent aqua-blue enamel applied over the course of a whopping 12 firings to achieve the unique fume effect radiating from light to dark around the periphery. The result of the intricate process creates a visual range much broader than aqua-blue alone, evoking bright tones of turquoise and deep tones of violet in high and low light. Having just come off a week of training in an enameling atelier on far simpler designs, my degree of admiration and respect for the brand grew tenfold. This wasn’t just a beautifully streamlined (and perfectly named) take on the classic integrated bracelet sport watch – this was a true way of making a stainless steel sport watch luxurious, artisanal, and dare I say elegant. From that point forward, I started to develop a bit of an obsession with the Streamliner, and it began to inch toward my grail list of dream models. However, there’s ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Watches Under $300 That Are Worth The Money
A roundup of the best watches under $300, ranging from classic hits from Casio and Timex to pieces from microbrands changing the game.
Monochrome
Video Review - A Closer Look at the Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance, and Its Brilliant 12:59 “Show Off” Mode
The idea of combining the resonance effect and a minute repeater isn’t new to Armin Strom. The independent watchmaker already, back in 2019, presented a technically impressive watch (what else to expect, as everything the brand does is technically impressive), the Masterpiece Minute Repeater Resonance. Regarding pure watchmaking, there was nothing to complain about here. […]
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: The Most Important American Watch Ever Made, A Vianney Halter Jump Hour, An Omega Soyuz, And More
Happy Friday, friends, and congrats on tackling another week. The days are now growing shorter (if you're north of the equator), and if you, like me, live in a state where fireworks are legal, best of luck for what will presumably be a very loud and long week. But before all that, let's take a moment and enjoy some watches. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Dugena and Mulco chronographs don't sell till the 27th, but the Rolex 6241 sold for 2,000,000 CHF, the Patek 5960 for 34,000 CHF, the Excelsior Park Monte Carlo passed, the Longines for TKTK (emailed, price not updated), and the Tavannes for TKTK (sells 6/25). Strays For all the Movado heads, this pocket watch looks spectacular, and if that doesn't ring your cherries, here's a gold-plated dual-time that's almost intimidatingly beautiful. My urge to recommend no-name skin divers will apparently never abate, and this week's pick is this Altitude that looks fantastic and is unlikely to sell for more than a few hundred dollars. Speaking of excellent divers, here's a Lip Nautic Ski, and, sure, it's a quartz watch from the 1970s, so (some) headaches await (though the watch is currently running, according to the listing), but I'm lately unable to shake an intense fondness for these latter Piquerez super compressor cases with their huge bezel and recessed crowns. Lastly, this Ebel is perfect; please buy it, someone, so I can stop thinking and debating if I should pursue the thing. Before getting into the main watches, I'd lik...
Monochrome
First Look - The new Maurice Lacroix 1975 Legacy Brings Refinement to the Collection
Maurice Lacroix introduced the 1975 collection last year to mark its 50th anniversary. Since then, the line has expanded to include GMT and day-date models, as well as the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde, which was released earlier this year. Now, the Swiss brand welcomes the new 1975 Legacy with a machine-guilloché petite seconde display that sits […]
Monochrome
First Look - Breguet Releases 3 new Tourbillon Watches for the 225th Anniversary of its Invention
Precisely 225 years ago on this day (on June 26, 1801, or on 7 Messidor An IX, to use the French Republican calendar in force at the time), Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted the patent for what is, without a doubt, its most famous invention: the tourbillon. Designed to counter the problem of gravity affecting the […]
Monochrome
In-Depth - The Superbly Elegant new 35mm Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357
Tourbillon and Breguet are two words that belong in the same story. Indeed, on 26 June 1801, and thus exactly 225 years ago, Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted the patent for his invention, an anti-gravity device that he would name the tourbillon. And today, the brand celebrates this crucial invention by releasing a series of new […]
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Breguet’s CEO On The Latest Tradition 7047, 225 Years Of The Tourbillon, And The Brand’s Future
On the 225th anniversary of the tourbillon patent, we sit down with Breguet CEO Gregory Kissling to discuss the latest version of the Tourbillon 7047, the brand’s enduring appeal, and the future of one of watchmaking’s most historic names. Before taking the helm at Breguet on October 1st, 2024, Kissling served as Vice President of […] Visit Fratello Talks: Breguet’s CEO On The Latest Tradition 7047, 225 Years Of The Tourbillon, And The Brand’s Future to read the full article.
Fratello
225 Years After The Tourbillon’s Invention, The Breguet Tradition Tourbillon 7047 Spins In The Best Of Traditions
The year after Breguet turned 250, the brand celebrates another big milestone, the 225th anniversary of the tourbillon. It does so with several gravity-defying watches, and we had the chance to experience the newest Breguet Tradition Tourbillon 7047, a platinum 25-piece limited edition outfitted with a spinning one-minute tourbillon and a fascinating fusée-and-chain mechanism. The […] Visit 225 Years After The Tourbillon’s Invention, The Breguet Tradition Tourbillon 7047 Spins In The Best Of Traditions to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Breguet Celebrates the 225th Anniversary of the Tourbillon with Four New Releases, And the Return of a Collector Favorite (Live Pics)
The year was 7 Messidor Year IX—or for those who don't follow the French Republican Calendar, June 26, 1801. After years of intense study and experimentation and some correspondence with his friend John Arnold (who similarly experimented with the concept before his death in 1799), Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted a 10-year patent for the "tourbillon." By 1829, Breguet and his workshop would only make 40 watches with the regulating organ, which was designed to eliminate positional errors and distribute oil (which often thickened in place), thereby lubricating parts more evenly. A Breguet four-minute tourbillon watch with échappement naturel, which sold at Sotheby's last year for CHF 1,880,000. Photo courtesy Sotheby's. Well, Abraham-Louis Breguet (and John Arnold) would be proud of how far the concept of the tourbillon has come—he may even be spinning himself if he saw some of the things that have happened with the tourbillon, like Alfred Helwig's invention of the flying tourbillon, let alone the first tourbillon wristwatch—and how many of those concepts have been integrated into watches made under his name. Add to that the fact that Breguet annually makes multiple times the number of his lifetime production, and it's just pretty cool how far things have come in 225 years. The Breguet Experimentale 1, which was launched late last year. The 10Hz, 1-minute tourbillon was one of the most extreme tourbillons ever made. Exposition out of the way, Breguet is celebrating t...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune
Van Cleef & Arpels approaches watchmaking as a medium for storytelling. The brand’s Poetic Complications line, launched in 2006, unites its high jewellery and artistic expertise with sophisticated mechanical movements to bring these stories to life. Expanding its Jour Nuit collection, Van Cleef adds a moon phase complication with on-demand animation inside the majestic Midnight […]
Worn & Wound
The Ultimate Fourth of July Gift Guide with Bremont’s Terra Nova Jumping Hour 1776
For many Americans, the Fourth of July means fireworks, backyard barbecues, and the one day a year that a stars-and-stripes t-shirt somehow feels perfectly acceptable. Yet beyond the spectacle and celebration, Independence Day is ultimately about something much simpler: coming together with friends and family to celebrate the history and ideals that continue to define […]
Worn & Wound
Brew Introduces the Metric Copper, their Latest Manually Wound Watch
Is there a brand that more completely blurs the line between the definition of “microbrand” and “independent brand” than Brew? It depends, of course, on how you define each term. If a brand needs to exist in the haute horlogerie space and craft movements or other components from scratch in an artisanal way to be considered “independent,” then Brew will probably never qualify under those terms. But if your criteria is an intentional, well defined point of view on watchmaking with a clear, instantly recognizable design language, all executed according to the singular creative vision of the brand’s founder, Brew easily fits. I’ve never been one to see microbrand as a pejorative or diminishing label, but in Brew’s case I might argue that it doesn’t necessarily reflect the brand’s growth over the last decade, and the widespread recognition and popularity they’ve found outside of the enthusiast space. Importantly, Brew continues to find interesting ways to iterate on the themes established since the brand’s founding by Jonathan Ferrer, the founder and designer behind the brand. It would be easy for Brew to simply pump out new colorways for successful models, but instead they’ve taken steps (sometimes, admittedly, slower than some collectors and enthusiasts would like) to gradually expand what people think of when they consider what Brew actually is. To that end, their latest watch is a new version of their manually wound Metric (with a Swiss movemen...
Monochrome
First Look - The Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Double Moon Phase (incl. Video)
Over the past couple of years, we’ve come to the conclusion that Union Glashütte is quite a stand-out brand among the predominantly Swiss Made brands under the Swatch Group umbrella. It benefits from the group’s vertical integration yet is able to put its own mark on things, allowing it to hallmark its watches as Made […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II
Continuing Doxa's focus on its core late-60s aesthetic, the brand recently unveiled the T.Graph II, the latest iteration of its core dive chronograph. Reborn but largely faithful to the original (and indeed to some more recent T.Graph forays), the new T.Graph II ports the Sub 300's classic look into a burly yet entirely wearable automatic chronograph that comes in Doxa's classic trio of colors, along with the surprise inclusion of a blue "Caribbean" execution. With a flagship price tag, it's a model that has previously been hard to source and often even more expensive, so the question becomes: is the new T.Graph II the dive-ready Doxa chronograph we've been waiting for? Don't fret, we'll get to all that and more. But first, a quick history lesson to bring us all loosely up to speed on the T.Graph, as it's a model with a cult following but was previously never made in any considerable quantity. T.Graphs Past To keep things as basic as possible (because Jason Heaton has written extensively about, and dived with, vintage T.Graphs – here with a Searambler, and here with a Sharkhunter), the new Sub 200 T.Graph II is based on a low-production design from 1969 called the Sub 200 T.Graph. While there is some contention over production numbers, it is believed that ~300 of each of the original colorways (Sharkhunter, Searambler, and Professional) were produced. Again, I recommend both of Jason's stories, even if only so you can see how absolutely gorgeous a vintage Sub 200 T.Graph...
Deployant
Hands-on with the new Leica SL3-P
I attended a special Leica SL preview showing of the new Leica SL3-P at Leica Singapore recently. Here are the specifications and my hand-on experience
Fratello
Channeling The Colorful Racing Culture Of The 1970s With The New Farer Racing Chronographs
Ask watch fans what makes Farer stand out, and chances are that you’ll quickly get an answer involving colors. The London-based brand has a knack for them. A great example is the Lissom collection that I reviewed last year. It’s a group of daily wearers that shows the importance of colors in creating a great […] Visit Channeling The Colorful Racing Culture Of The 1970s With The New Farer Racing Chronographs to read the full article.
Fratello
Chinese Haute Horlogerie From “The Geneva of the East?” - The New Peacock Haiyi Tourbillon Yu Limited Edition
Please meet Peacock, a Chinese watch brand that has been creating complicated timepieces since 1957, and its Haiyi Tourbillon, a 40mm limited-edition dive watch with a colorful Lindsay-engraved enameled dial in three colors. You might not be familiar with Liaoning Peacock, also known as the Peacock Watch Company, but the manufacturer from Dandong, China, is […] Visit Chinese Haute Horlogerie From “The Geneva of the East?” — The New Peacock Haiyi Tourbillon Yu Limited Edition to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - New, Softer Colour Schemes for the Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 38mm
Alongside the sporty Fifty Fathoms, Bathyscaphe or Air Command collections, the Villeret range, named after the village in the Vallée de Joux, where Jehan-Jacques Blancpain set up his workshop on the top floor of his house in 1735, is the epitome of classic. Ranging from time-only to high complications, the entry-level model to the Villeret […]
Time+Tide
The Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate is now available in 38mm - here is why this is important
The new Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 38mm opens the door to a more compact option and a first-ever sunburst salmon dial for the line.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate (Now In 38mm)
What We Know Today, Blancpain has downsized its ultra-thin Villeret Ultraplate dress watch, with new options in 38mm for greater wearability. The previous 40mm options of the 'Golden Hour' series, which I covered last October, remain, but the 38mm options are going to be much more appealing all around as proper dress watches. The case still remains incredibly thin, especially for a self-winding watch, at 8.35mm, but the 38mm downsizing now offers a short 43.35mm lug-to-lug measurement for small wrists and those who prefer the more traditional proportion of how a dress watch should look on the wrist. Here, four options are presented within these new measurements: three with stainless steel cases, and one in 18K red gold. The dial design continues the visual update introduced last October in the Villeret series, with simplified Roman numerals, the applied "JB" logo at 12 o'clock (standing for Jehan-Jacques Blancpain, who the brand credits as the founder), slim but still lumed leaf hands, and a skeletonized rotor. In stainless steel, there are three dial colors available. Salmon is a first for the Villeret collection, with a copper-hued dial paired with anthracite-coated 18K gold numerals. My favorite of the lineup, the Villeret Ultraplate featuring a warm champagne-hued dial with 18K yellow gold numerals set within a steel case with a green nubuck strap, will be offered as a boutique exclusive. More classic pairings of white gold numerals in a steel case and red gold numeral...
Monochrome
Introducing - Akhor Releases the New Day/Night Nour La Lumière
Akhor is a new Geneva indie brand carving a niche for high-end watchmaking, poetic design and top-end finishing. A collective project founded by Anissa Bader in 2025, Akhor is built around its floating dial architecture with a patented two-disc construction by sister company Clamax, a Geneva-based component and micromechanics manufacturer. Writing the next chapter, the […]