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Sigma Dial

Two Greek σ flanking \"Swiss Made\" on 1973-80s vintage dials; certified solid 18k gold applied indices by APRIOR.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Vs. Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante Another Aug 4, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Vs. Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante

Another Sunday, another showdown! This week, we are pitting two heavy hitters against each other. Jorg will defend the honors of the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante. Thomas, in the other corner, will fight for the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir. After several weeks of attainable tool watches in the showdown, this is a battle between two […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Vs. Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante to read the full article.

The Watch I Didn’t Buy: Crossing Financial Thresholds Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko we’ve been lusting over Aug 3, 2024

The Watch I Didn’t Buy: Crossing Financial Thresholds

Watch budgeting is a funny thing. For most collectors, it involves a significant amount of mental gymnastics as money is moved in and out of an imaginary bank. We say things like “sorry, no funds in the watch bank” when our friends are selling a watch we don’t want to buy. But when Jomashop is offering a deal on that Seiko we’ve been lusting over, funds are magically ready for immediate withdrawal. Sometimes this is because we’ve recently sold some watches and actually have a positive balance in the watch bank. But often, we buy that new Seiko on “credit” with a self-promise to liquidate the current collection to restore financial balance.

The Evergreens – The History of the Zenith El Primero, The Glorious High-Frequency Automatic Chronograph That Almost Died Monochrome
Zenith El Primero Aug 2, 2024

The Evergreens – The History of the Zenith El Primero, The Glorious High-Frequency Automatic Chronograph That Almost Died

In our series on historically significant calibres, the best way to honour the El Primero calibre is by highlighting its qualities, functional characteristics, and pivotal role in shaping the watchmaking industry. While the tale of its salvation in 1976, along with that of Zenith as a company, by a courageous man defying the ill will […]

First Impressions: Unimatic Toolwatch UT1 GMT Teddy Baldassarre
Unimatic Aug 2, 2024

First Impressions: Unimatic Toolwatch UT1 GMT

Unimatic took a step in a new direction this summer with the release of a new collection simply called Toolwatch. The collection consists of four watches across two styles, and represents a push into function-driven design. Each of the watches meet the MIL-STD-810 standard used by the US Department of Defense, and boast an internal protection system designed by Unimatic. It’s clear the Italian brand is making a serious move into true tool-watch territory here, and the watches themselves have a number of unique elements on their side, but how do they stand up to real-world, practical use? We went hands-on to find out. The UT1 GMT is one of four variations released within the Toolwatch collection, utilizing a fully indexed rotating bezel, and featuring a GMT disk and date complication. As with all Unimatic watches, the case is the most distinctive feature of the UT1, and it falls into very familiar territory. The design language that Unimatic has developed for its cases is geometric and confident, with fixed planes that meet at set angles, and no real curvature in sight. At 41.5mm in diameter, and 49mm from lug to lug, this case has a muscular presence, but never feels overbearing.  This is a case that invites a closer look at a variety of angles, and there’s always a dramatic view that awaits. It’s not graceful, but it works just fine on the wrist, all things considered. This is a watch that wears its personality on its sleeve, and at nearly 14mm thick, it won’t be...

Editorial: LVMH and Rolex Vying for Formula 1 SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Jul 25, 2024

Editorial: LVMH and Rolex Vying for Formula 1

Rumours started earlier this month that Rolex had “lost” its prime status as official timekeeper for Formula 1 to TAG Heuer. That, as it turns out, is not true – yet. According to a senior LVMH executive speaking off the record, a deal between F1 and the French luxury group – and not just one of its constituent brands – is close but not yet a done deal. This was also echoed by Jean-Jacques Guiony, LVMH chief financial officer, during a conference call with analysts to present the group’s second quarter financial results. In fact, any announcement of LVMH closing the deal will likely come after the Paris 2024 Olympics that counts LVMH as one of its lead sponsors. The situation is more than just Rolex “losing” the sponsorship to TAG Heuer. It’s not about the financial resources of Rolex, which for all intents and purposes are limitless, but about the breadth and depth of the LVMH portfolio, as well as Rolex’s growing emphasis on conservation as a key part of its brand. Three elements are crucial in understanding the sponsorship deal with F1, which is enjoying a revival in popularity with its hit Netflix series Formula 1: Drive to Survive and new race locations like the Miami Grand Prix. The first is the matching clause that is common in such deals and will inevitably be part of the F1 sponsorship contract. This gives Rolex a matching right – it has the right to match a competing offer for the same sponsorship. In other words, if Rolex wanted to, it can...

Introducing: Horage × Miniswys Microreg - A Revolutionary Invention Fratello
Jul 24, 2024

Introducing: Horage × Miniswys Microreg - A Revolutionary Invention

This one won’t be easy. I do not often have to write about an important revolutionary invention like Horage and Miniswys’s Microreg. I could tell the story in a few words, but background clarification is necessary to understand its importance. So this article will initially be pretty theoretical and technical, but a beautiful watch will […] Visit Introducing: Horage × Miniswys Microreg - A Revolutionary Invention to read the full article.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Jaeger-LeCoultre Jul 19, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Guide

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is one of those historical, influential timepieces that has been occasionally imitated but never really equaled in its appeal. Tracing its origins back nearly a hundred years, It is the most prominent and enduring example of Art Deco design in the 21st Century watch world and one of the first and most successful examples of a tool watch that transcended its utilitarian origins to become a stylish and indisputably unisex fashion accessory. Read on to discover everything you need to know about the Reverso and how it has maintained its iconic status in a century of shifting trends and industry headwinds. Foundations: Jaeger Meets LeCoultre Antoine LeCoultre Today a watchmaking house renowned for both its high-luxury pedigree and a high-horology acumen nearly unmatched in the industry, Jaeger-LeCoultre had the humblest of beginnings. In 1833 Antoine LeCoultre (1803 - 1881), descendant of farmers and blacksmiths, started making timepieces in his family’s small barn in Le Sentier in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Learning metallurgy from his father at the family forge, LeCoultre developed an early interest in watchmaking and proved to be an influential innovator of his era. His so-called “millionomètre,” completed in 1844, had a profound impact on the precise manufacture of watch parts as it was the first instrument able to measure 1/1000ths of a millimeter, aka microns. At the 1851 Great Exhibition in London’s Hyde Park, LeCoultre was awa...

First Look – The New Czapek Complicité Place Vendôme Stardust Cobalt Monochrome
Breguet Berthoud Jul 9, 2024

First Look – The New Czapek Complicité Place Vendôme Stardust Cobalt

Dual regulators were invented by horology’s illustrious grandfathers to improve accuracy and stability. Names like Huygens, who introduced the concept of resonance inside his movements, and others like Breguet, Berthoud and Janvier are all associated with this alignment of double regulators. Coveted by collectors, this rara avis is not extinct and reinterpreted by contemporary wizards […]

Monta Adds a GMT Complication to the Noble Collection with the New Noble Voyager Worn & Wound
Monta Jul 5, 2024

Monta Adds a GMT Complication to the Noble Collection with the New Noble Voyager

Monta has announced an upgrade to their popular Noble collection today with the Noble Voyager. This new watch expands on the Noble concept, which is an old-fashioned luxury sport watch with distinct refined details that place just a click outside the “tool watch” category, by adding a GMT complication. This, of course, makes complete sense for a sports watch that was conceived to go anywhere. Now, when you go there (or, anywhere) you’ll be fully able to monitor an additional time zone.  The execution here is quite subtle, and unless you were really searching for it, it would be easy to miss the GMT complication entirely. Monta has chosen to make the 24 hour hand a skeletonized clone of the local hour hand rather than a more traditional long hand with a broad arrow tip, or something of that nature. This helps to keep the Noble Voyager’s dial clean so that the drama of the lightly textured dégradé dials (in green or blue) remain intact. This was always my favorite design element of the original Noble, and I’m glad to see that Monta has held this over from the time and date versions of the watch. Besides the additional hand and a 24 hour scale at the dial’s perimeter, this is still very easily recognized as a Noble.  The Noble Voyager’s case has nearly the same dimensions as the time and date model, measuring 38.5mm in diameter and 47mm lug to lug. The difference comes in the case height measurement, which is 10.7mm on the Noble Voyager compared to 9.7mm on ...

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Review Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Jul 2, 2024

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Review

IWC released a new generation of its Ingenieur collection in 2023, at what many would consider the tail end of the integrated-luxury-sport-watch craze that gripped the industry heading into 2020. At the time, it was tempting to say that IWC was a bit late to the punch here, especially considering the Schaffhausen-based brand's enviable position of having an original Gérald Genta design from the ‘70s to utilize. In hindsight, however, it seems that IWC was playing the long game, and wasn’t interested in rushing out a throwback type of release. Instead, IWC took a bit more time and released a modern rendition of the original Genta design, released in 1976, as a foundation for years to come. The result is the Reference 3289 Ingenieur, and it’s a watch that looks to do more than merely capitalize on a passing trend.  There are two watches with which you likely associate the name Gérald Genta, and those are the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Genta penned both of these now iconic designs, in 1972 and 1976 respectively, and they have served as cornerstones in creating the premium sport-watch genre as a whole, as well as helped to spawn the subset of integrated-bracelet designs within it. But those are far from the only watches that can be attributed to Genta, and in fact, aren’t even the only integrated-bracelet sport-watch designs to come out of that era. In 1976, he also designed a new Ingenieur for IWC, known as the SL Ref. 1832 (tha...

Yema Introduces a New Skin Diver with their Micro Rotor Caliber Worn & Wound
Yema Jun 24, 2024

Yema Introduces a New Skin Diver with their Micro Rotor Caliber

French watchmaker Henry-Louis Belmont established Yema in 1948 and quickly became known for manufacturing ultra-capable tool watches. By 1954 their production reached 130,000 watches and by the mid 1960s they were selling over 400,000 watches annually in 55 countries. Their motto “Time of Heroes” became their official slogan, and their watches were particularly suitable for diving, car racing, and military expeditions. Today, Yema is experiencing a resurgence and is introducing a new modern interpretation of their iconic Skin Diver. The Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 is not just another pretty face. Beneath the beautiful dark grey dial beats their in-house Calibre Manufacture Morteau 20 movement (CMM.20). It is rated for accuracy at -3/+7 seconds a day, has a power reserve of 70 hours, and is extra slim due to its micro-rotor. The watch measures 39mm in diameter, 47mm from lug-to-lug, and only 10mm tall to the top of the double-domed sapphire crystal. Despite being relatively thin, it is water-resistant to an impressive depth of 300 meters. Adding to its vintage styling is a dark grey, faded bezel insert covered by sapphire glass. Its lume pip, along with all the lume on the dial and markers, has that aged radium look, which complements the design very well. The watch comes mounted on a new slimmer Yema Scales bracelet, which integrates better with the Skin Diver’s slimmer profile. The screw-down case back offers a transparent view of the movement, featuring a black ALD (ato...

Hands-On with the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS Strap for the Tudor Black Bay 54 Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay 54 Jun 21, 2024

Hands-On with the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS Strap for the Tudor Black Bay 54

In case you couldn’t tell, we’re fans of Tudor in these parts. Yeah, yeah, nothing new; everyone likes a Tudor, but man, even in head-to-head combat, it’s hard to find much fault with their watches. Well, I’ll tell you a secret: I do have an issue with them. It’s not a big issue, per se, but it’s not nothing, either. Here’s the deal: when you get one, you choose which strap you want, and that’s it. Want the rubber and the bracelet? You better buy two. Ok, perhaps that’s an exaggeration, but as far as Tudor’s website goes, you can’t order the straps separately. Maybe an AD can, but who’s got time for all that? Now, hear me out; the other thing is that they make very good bracelets. If you, like me, are prone to the occasional Black Bay purchase, you will choose the bracelet over the other options. But those other options, the rubber in particular, are just so damn nice. What’s a collector to do? Well, for Tudor Black Bay 54 owners, there’s a new solution from our friends in Singapore, Delugs. Rubber straps are all well and good, but there’s just something special about one meant for your watch. One fitted to the exact shape of the lugs for that modern, integrated look. Introducing the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS straps for various watches, including the BB54. Delugs was kind enough to send one over for some sweat-errr– road testing, so here are my thoughts. Despite the setup, I’m actually not a huge rubber strap person. I’m not a huge br...

Photo Report: Blade Show 2024  Recap Worn & Wound
Jun 21, 2024

Photo Report: Blade Show 2024 Recap

Blade Show Atlanta is known as the mecca for anything pocket knife or edge tool related. Touted as the “World’s Largest Knife Show,” it offers an astonishing selection of blades, from cutting edge designs to traditional heritage pieces.  Much like the Windup Watch fair, Blade Show offers a unique experience to explore new brands, shop exclusive offerings, and connect with their favorite manufacturers.  At this year’s show, I was able to connect with some of my favorite brands, namely Big Idea Design, Notorious EDC, OEG EDC, Tactile Turn/Knife Company, and Benchmade: vendors whose products make up the majority of my carry and help me solve problems every day.  While it’s wonderful to experience all of the vendors and their offerings, the one thing that takes this show to another level is the people you’ll meet. I love to chat with manufacturers and learn more about their items and work process, but I find the most joy in connecting with other attendees and content creators in the industry. Over the three day show, I was able to connect face-to-face with countless people who I’ve met digitally over social media, and have inspired me to create new content, push boundaries, and grow as a photographer. One brand in particular, Bober Blades was super interesting to check out in person their build process was exciting to learn about.  From watches to patches, and pocket knives to swords, there’s no shortage of amazing gear at Blade Show.  Throughout this arti...

Testing The Doxa Sub 200T In Its Natural Underwater Habitat Fratello
Doxa Sub 200T Jun 21, 2024

Testing The Doxa Sub 200T In Its Natural Underwater Habitat

Doxa’s Sub 200T is a wonderful underwater companion and underlines the trend toward smaller tool watches. Having debuted just before the start of Watches and Wonders 2024, the Sub 200T was met with broadly positive acclaim. As a truly mid-sized option with a 39mm case diameter and slim profile, it rounds out Doxa’s cushion-cased offerings […] Visit Testing The Doxa Sub 200T In Its Natural Underwater Habitat to read the full article.

Omega Introduces The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Inspired By Armand “Mondo” Duplantis Fratello
Omega Introduces Jun 19, 2024

Omega Introduces The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Inspired By Armand “Mondo” Duplantis

The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M is perhaps Omega’s strongest contender for everyday luxury. In the realm once dominated by the Rolex OP, the Aqua Terra has become a go-to daily watch for the right reasons and can be quite the style chameleon. This time, the inspiration of Armand “Mondo” Deplantis and the Swedish national colors […] Visit Omega Introduces The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Inspired By Armand “Mondo” Duplantis to read the full article.

Just A Minute With The Gerber Gear Assert Worn & Wound
Jun 16, 2024

Just A Minute With The Gerber Gear Assert

Over the past 85 years, Gerber Gear has made knives and tools that have become legends in their own right, from providing knives and multi-tools for soldiers on the front lines to making essential gear for hunters, anglers, adventurers, and trade workers alike. Today, we’re taking just a minute with Gerber Gear’s lightweight everyday carry knife, the Assert. Designed with daily use in mind, the Assert weighs in at just under 2 ounces and features a 3″ blade, making it easy to carry year-round. Whether you’re opening letters or packages, you’ll find the S30v steel blade holds quite the edge. Between the adjustable thumb stud, ambidextrous pivot lock, and textured handle, you can easily operate this knife one-handed, while keeping a secure grip. Over the past 85 years, Gerber Gear has made knives and tools that have become legends in their own right, from providing knives and multi-tools for soldiers on the front lines to making essential gear for hunters, anglers, adventurers, and trade workers alike. Today, we’re taking just a minute with Gerber Gear’s lightweight everyday carry knife, the Assert. Designed with daily use in mind, the Assert weighs in at just under 2 ounces and features a 3″ blade, making it easy to carry year-round. Whether you’re opening letters or packages, you’ll find the S30v steel blade holds quite the edge. Between the adjustable thumb stud, ambidextrous pivot lock, and textured handle, you can easily operate this knife one-handed...

Hot Take: The King Seiko SJE109, SJE111, SJE113, And SJE115 Fratello
Seiko SJE109 SJE111 SJE113 Jun 7, 2024

Hot Take: The King Seiko SJE109, SJE111, SJE113, And SJE115

When King Seiko watches returned to the scene a few years ago, they did so with the instantly recognizable KSK case shape. Of course, we always knew more shapes would follow at some point, and here they are! I am a big fan of the 2022 release, and the SPB281 was my daily watch for […] Visit Hot Take: The King Seiko SJE109, SJE111, SJE113, And SJE115 to read the full article.

Introducing: The Evocative Atelier Holgur Frømand Edition Fumée Silver Tide Fratello
Jun 5, 2024

Introducing: The Evocative Atelier Holgur Frømand Edition Fumée Silver Tide

Atelier Holgur is a small Singapore-based brand with Nordic roots and a specific take on tough dive watches. Since the release of its debut model, the Frømand (meaning “frogman” in Danish), Atelier Holgur has tweaked its distinct design language. By introducing the Frømand Edition Fumée Silver Tide, the evolution is apparent. We love our tool […] Visit Introducing: The Evocative Atelier Holgur Frømand Edition Fumée Silver Tide to read the full article.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Alexander Sandlass Worn & Wound
Casio G-SHOCK GMW-B5000 – $550  May 31, 2024

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Alexander Sandlass

Editor’s Note: For this edition of The Three Watch Collection for $5,000, we have a selection from watch and gear enthusiast Alexander Sandlass. These three pieces run the gamut in terms of pricing (and Alexander takes advantage of pre-owned pricing for one heavy hitter) but all are icons in their own way. The two value oriented pieces (both of which Alexander actually owns) are classic enthusiast tool watches, and could form the basis for an impressive two watch collection, while the third piece is a very different kind of watch, but indisputably great looking.  When choosing three watches within this budget, one might criticize that I do not take the typical tiered approach when it comes to prices of each piece. Each piece to me holds a certain intrinsic value, and that is why these three watches were chosen. These three watches, to me, are the perfect combination for all purposes. Casio G-SHOCK GMW-B5000 – $550  My first choice is a G-SHOCK GMW-B5000. When I first saw this watch, it brought back memories of when I was younger picking out the “cheap” version at Walmart, thinking I was a badass with a G-Shock. Now, this version is much more rugged, making it the perfect watch for daily carry, and one that you don’t mind if it gets a little banged and scratched up. At a price point of $550, it is not the cheapest “beater watch,” but it will last a long time with proper upkeep along with recommended battery care. That being said, the solar capabilities are a...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts May 30, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic

The newest member of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s line of sports watches, the Polaris Geographic is a dual time zone in a modern “ocean grey” with orange accents with a practical dial layout showing a second time zone, day-night indicator, cities disc for the world time, and the power reserve. Initial thoughts Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) first introduced this complication over three decades ago as the Géographique, a full-featured travel watch that stood out from most of the simpler travel watches of the time. But it had a fairly cluttered dial, so the new Geographic is simplified, with the key change being the removal of the date. This streamlines the aesthetic though some might find the date more practical than the power reserve indicator. The movement inside is an upgraded version of the calibre in the 1990s Géographique and now has a three-day power reserve, but is still relatively complex to set. A more useful update would have been a more intuitive time zone-setting function.  The Polaris Geographic retails for US$16,100, which feels steep, particularly since JLC has historically been affordable more affordable watchmaking of good, industrial-artisanal quality.  A diving dual time zone The new Geographic adopts the style of the Polaris line, which is a modern-ish dive watch look with an inner rotation bezel. The layout remains the familiar one found on past generations of the model, with the second time zone in a sub-dial at six and the day-night indicator to its left. A...

IWC Reveals Ceralume With The First Fully Luminous Ceramic Watch Fratello
IWC Reveals Ceralume May 28, 2024

IWC Reveals Ceralume With The First Fully Luminous Ceramic Watch

Luminescent materials have been a part of watchmaking for generations. The use of radioactive materials in the last century was fundamental in the design of tool watches that could allow the owner an opportunity to tell the time in darkened conditions. Thankfully, we no longer have to rely on radioactive materials to achieve this outcome, […] Visit IWC Reveals Ceralume With The First Fully Luminous Ceramic Watch to read the full article.

The Roundup: Familiar Favorites and Some Newcomers Too Worn & Wound
Citizen Fugu” dive watch May 26, 2024

The Roundup: Familiar Favorites and Some Newcomers Too

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. The Windup Team is also available to schedule a consultation or demo with you to answer any questions you may have. This week we kick things off with something you’ve never seen before: the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver made in collaboration with the RedBar watch club. Next, we appreciate the fact that G-Shock has made a genuinely smaller everyday watch in the form of the Digital Basic. The Remix from Gerber is our kit feature this week, while our very own Hexagon Watch Tube covers all your watch storage needs. Last but not least, the Citizen “Fugu” dive watch is our deal of the week. You won’t want to miss any of this. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, whi...

Hands-On With The High-End Dressy Monarque M Diver From Milléchron Fratello
May 23, 2024

Hands-On With The High-End Dressy Monarque M Diver From Milléchron

Dive watches are the go-to for many watch collectors. They outstrip the standard “tool watch” moniker with, usually, enhanced specs, such as better water resistance. As a result, dive watches are usually aimed at those professionals for whom they are designed. You know, divers. These days, this results in an instantly recognizable aesthetic that is […] Visit Hands-On With The High-End Dressy Monarque M Diver From Milléchron to read the full article.