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Inside Seiko: P2/3: Shiojiri – cold forging, zaratsu and the 9F
Part 2/3 of our Inside Seiko special feature takes us into the manufacture in Shiojiri. We see cold forging of cases, zaratsu and the 9F quartz movement.
470 articles · 391 videos found · page 2 of 29
Deployant
Part 2/3 of our Inside Seiko special feature takes us into the manufacture in Shiojiri. We see cold forging of cases, zaratsu and the 9F quartz movement.
Deployant
Grand Seiko releases 3 new watches with the 9F quartz GMT movement. One will be a limited edition of 800 pcs, and 2 others will be in the permanent catalog.
Time+Tide
If you’re a regular reader, I’m willing to bet that your views around quartz timekeeping will be pretty negative. After all, this is a technology that was (almost) responsible for the downfall of mechanical watches. But, as you’re about to find out, not all quartz watches were created equal. Sure, there’s the cheap and cheerful … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: High-end quartz – Grand Seiko celebrates the 25th anniversary of the 9F with two limited editions (SBGT241 and SBGV238) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Vintage-style caliber crossed with modern aesthetics in celebration of Zenith's 160th Anniversary.
Worn & Wound
2022: the Kodo constant force tourbillon. 2023: the Tentagraph hi-beat mechanical chronograph. 2024: the 9SA4 manual wound, hi-beat, dual-impulse escapement caliber, and Kodo Daybreak. It’s easy to forget that Grand Seiko has brought the proverbial heat to Watches & Wonders every year since the fair started, unveiling something that one could call “revolutionary” for the brand, if on varying scales. Well, it’s looking like 2025 will continue the trend with the introduction of Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2, the first caliber with U.F.A., or Ultra Fine Accuracy, designation. Before proceeding, there are two important concepts to understand: Spring Drive and Grand Seiko’s history with acronyms (which, if you know, feel free to jump two paragraphs ahead). Starting with the former, the elevator pitch, which I will take from our article dedicated to the topic is “Spring Drive combines the best of mechanical watchmaking and the best of quartz timekeeping to create a state-of-the-art caliber that lacks the weaknesses inherent to both of these movements.” A bit deeper, Spring Drive movements use the energy stored in a traditional mainspring to drive their proprietary “Tri-synchro” regulator, which replaces the classic lever escapement. It consists of a glide wheel, the rate of which is controlled by an electromagnetic brake, and is essentially regulated by an integrated circuit with a quartz oscillator. The result is a mechanical movement with quartz-like accuracy and...
Video
Some watches are more special than others, and when you combine terms like "tourbillon", "platinum" and "grand feu enamel", you know you're in for a treat! If the watch also happens to be made by A. Lange & Söhne, th...
Time+Tide
This special edition smartwatch features a dedicated app for keeping up to date on F1 races, as well as a race-inspired design.The post TAG Heuer’s Connected Caliber E5 45mm x Formula 1 keeps you on track, and on the track appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
During Watches and Wonders 2025, Grand Seiko unveiled two Spring Drive models powered by a new Ultra Fine Accuracy (U.F.A.) caliber. This year, the Japanese watchmaker follows up on last year’s novelties with two Ushio 300 divers housing a new U.F.A. movement. On top of that, the brand finally granted enthusiasts’ wishes for a smaller […] Visit Grand Seiko Unveils The New Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Divers to read the full article.
Fratello
Last year was a big one for Zenith, celebrating the manufacture’s 160th anniversary. For the occasion, the brand introduced the impressive Zenith G.F.J. The release brought back the legendary caliber 135 and marked the start of a new series of dress watches. But after that release, it remained quiet until today. Today, the inaugural G.F.J. […] Visit Zenith Turns The G.F.J. Into A Collection With Two Stunning Stone-Dial Limited Editions to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Christopher Ward releases the C1 Jump Hour Mk V "Dusk," a limited edition with a red dial and the brand's in-house JJ01 caliber.
Hodinkee
Celebrating the 20th Anniversary of Journe's Japan boutique, F.P. brings out a brand new manually-wound caliber.
Video
Some watches are more special than others, and when you combine terms like "tourbillon", "platinum" and "grand feu enamel", you know you're in for a treat! If the watch also happens to be made by A. Lange & Söhne, th...
Quill & Pad
Twenty-five years – a quarter of a century – is a long time. But it’s not that long for a watch manufacturer. In 1996, Chopard's co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele proudly introduced Caliber 1.96 to the world, his brand's very first in-house movement. Here Martin Green highlights a few of his favorites from the 25-year-old L.U.C collection.
Deployant
F. P. Journe celebrates 20 years of the Chronomètre à Résonance with a new rendition of the resonance watch, with a new movement - the caliber 1520.
Worn & Wound
If you were take a poll of Grand Seiko enthusiasts and collectors to ask them what they thought was missing from the brand’s catalog, I have a feeling a significant portion of respondents would tell you the same thing: a great dive watch. Grand Seiko has, of course, been making divers for years, and a lot of them have been objectively outstanding and well liked by certain pockets of the Grand Seiko community. But they’ve never had a diver that’s really caught fire in the way that something like the Snowflake has – there’s no icon in their dive watch range. I think most would agree that this is at least in part because to this point the brand’s dive watches have always been on the chunky side, and not really a viable competitor to the Submariners and Seamasters of the world in terms of their wearability. Grand Seiko seeks to change that at Watches & Wonders this year, with the rather ambitious release of the new Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver. This new 40.8mm High-Intensity Titanium dive watch uses a new Spring Drive movement featuring the same tech as last year’s 9RB2 Spring Drive caliber, which boasts an accuracy rate of plus or minus 20 seconds per year. There are really two notable things about this watch. First, there’s the movement, Caliber 9RB1, which has the same U.F.A (Ultra Fine Accuracy) designation as the 9RB2 introduced last year. The 20 second annual accuracy rate is, according to Grand Seiko, the most accurate wristwatch movement powe...
Worn & Wound
A January launch of a new Speedmaster (on a Tuesday, of course) has become a bit of a tradition for Omega over these past few years. Today, Omega has announced a new Dark Side of the Moon Speedmaster, which at first glance (and maybe a second and third glance) will look a whole lot like an earlier iteration of the popular ceramic version of the chronograph. The newest addition, though, has a few little updates that are likely to appeal to the most hardcore Speedmaster collectors. “Little” is the operative word here for at least one of them, which also might be the most technically impressive. The Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 is a follow up to the first edition of this watch, which was released in 2018 to mark the 50th anniversary of the mission. That original Apollo 8 watch was an immediate hit. It combined a lot of the modern tech and materials of contemporary ceramic Speedmasters with the familiar and highly regarded manually wound movement that is so much a part of the Speedy’s DNA. The rendition of the lunar surface on the dial was also particularly well executed and impressive. The new Apollo 8 features an updated movement, Calibre 3869, which is analogous to Calibre 1869 used in the previous version. This new movement has been specced to match Calibre 3861, the manually wound caliber at the heart of the current Moonwatch. It’s a significant upgrade from the older movement, and has been fitted with a co-axial escapement and meets all the requir...
Hodinkee
A brand new movement supports a downsized spin on a classic GS design.
Video
Today, a candid mid-jog-vlog. I'm loving the New Balance DynaSoft Nitrel v6 in the all black stealthy colour configuration, maybe the best sneakers for running in the snow I have ever experienced. Also, over a decade...
Fratello
Superleggera is Italian for “super light.” But to a petrolhead, the word means more. The term refers to a custom automobile body-construction method developed by Felice Bianchi Anderloni at the Italian coachbuilder Carrozzeria Touring Superleggera. Patented in 1936, the Superleggera system uses a framework of thin steel tubes shaped to the contours of the car […] Visit Hands-On With The New Chanel J12 Superleggera Caliber 12.1 — Is It Worthy Of The Famous Automotive Moniker? to read the full article.
Fratello
Marginal gains - the world of Haute Horlogerie moves forward in little steps. That is already a miracle since mechanical watchmaking is in its private universe where functionality is not an essential survival tool. Still, the leading traditional watchmaking houses continue to push the technical boundaries. You don’t get a sense of evolution when you […] Visit Diving Into The New Audemars Piguet Caliber 7138 - A Complicated Way To Celebrate The Brand’s 150th Anniversary to read the full article.
Fratello
Watches can be a deeply impersonal affair. The rise of social media hype, luxury exhibitionism, and wristwatch “flexing” is very different from what watches once represented. It wasn’t all that long ago that they were simple time-telling tools with a little style thrown in (perhaps even some panache). This article is a celebration of watches […] Visit How My Grandfather’s IWC Caliber 89 Is A Connection To A Bygone Era to read the full article.
Monochrome
First presented in 2021, The Citizen Mechanical Caliber 0200 truly impressed us, especially after we had the chance to spend time with it on the wrist. Coming from a brand that we tend to associate with accessible mechanical and solar-powered watches, this high-end, traditional mechanical watch with an integrated bracelet made quite an impact. Developed […]
SJX Watches
Having introduced the ultra-advanced quartz Caliber 0100 in 2019, Citizen is now turning to mechanical movements. Making its debut in the flagship The Citizen collection, the Caliber 0200 is a newly-developed automatic with all the technical features expected of a high-end modern movement, along with more elaborate decoration thanks to the input of Swiss movement specialist La Joux-Perret. Citizen’s first new mechanical since 2010, the Caliber 0200 elevates its mechanical watchmaking to a new level in both construction and aesthetics. Similarly, the first wristwatch equipped with the Caliber 0200 boasts a more sophisticated degree of finishing on its complex case and integrated bracelet. The Caliber 0200 Initial thoughts Going by the images, the Calibre 0200-equipped The Citizen is an impressive watch. And going by Citizen’s other high-end watches, this will almost surely look as good in real life as it does in photos. Measuring an elegant 40 mm by 10.9 mm, the case has complex surfaces and impeccable finishing, and also a distinctive look. Though some of the design elements do bring to mind other watches, it is original enough, which is a feat given the proliferation of integrated-bracelet designs today. But the highlight is the movement, which is perhaps best described as a high-end workhorse calibre. The construction and specs tick all the right boxes, and so does the finishing, which is superior to many watches – Swiss and Japanese – in the same price range. Th...
Video
Today a quick addendum to my recent hands on full review of one of 2026's most important new releases.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Grand Seiko turned heads at the start of 2020 with the announcement of a brand new in-house movement – the Grand Seiko 9SA5 caliber. It was first launched in the Grand Seiko SLGH002 60th Anniversary Limited Edition, a quintessential yellow gold dress watch from the Japanese watchmaking firm, and it left jaws on … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: An independent watchmaker explains why the new Grand Seiko 9SA5 caliber is so remarkable appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Hands-on, detailed and analytical review of the new Citizen AQ 6010-06A Caliber 0100: the most accurate watch in the world.
Revolution
The stellar Patek Philippe Caliber 89 misses its lower estimate at Sotheby’s Spring 2017 auction and goes unsold.
Deployant
The Patek Philippe Calibre 240 began its career in 1977 in the ultra-thin Ref. 3738 Golden Ellips. We explore its development over the last 40 years.
Hodinkee
Coming in at 7.35mm thick with a brand new caliber, this limited edition is something special.
Video
Rolex Novelties 2026 are here — and this might be one of the most talked-about releases in recent years. From a controversial new Oyster Perpetual to the return of the Yacht-Master II, plus the apparent discontinuat...
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