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Results for Wandering Hours

865 articles · 1,873 videos found · page 2 of 92

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel Jan 2, 2023

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel

In an unexpected, end-of-year announcement, Audemars Piguet unveiled the Code 11.59 Starwheel, reviving the wandering hours complication that had been absent from its catalogue since 2003. Inspired by a 17th century clock, the wandering hours made its way into wristwatches thanks to Audemars Piguet (AP), which debuted the first wristwatch with the display in 1991. Retaining the familiar three-disc hour display, the new Starwheel is nonetheless an entirely different watch from the compact original. Powered by an in-house movement contained in the Code 11.59 case, the Starwheel has physical presence by virtue of its size, but also a surprising degree of refinement thanks to the excellent finishing of the dial and case. Initial thoughts With a modern look defined by dark colours and instrument-like numerals, the Code 11.59 Starwheel looks pretty much the same as it does in photos – but it is far more appealing than expected. In the metal the watch has an impressive degree of visual detail, particularly the polished bevels on the dial components, and a reassuringly solid feel, all of which give it a great deal of tactile appeal. The refinement in terms of visual detail also translates into the movement, which is in-house both in terms of the base and module. Although it functions identically to the original Star Wheel, the Code 11.59 model has an improved display mechanism. Instead of the periodic rotation found in the original model, the discs rotate continually throughout ...

The AP Starwheel is not new, but is the new take better than the OG? Time+Tide
Urwerk Dec 3, 2022

The AP Starwheel is not new, but is the new take better than the OG?

When modern watch lovers think of the wandering hours complication, most would immediately think of Urwerk that has largely focused on the complication since the brand’s founding in 1997. As a result, we associate the style of wandering hours with a future-forward nature – and I cannot fault this sort of thinking. There is something … ContinuedThe post The AP Starwheel is not new, but is the new take better than the OG? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Urwerk Introduces the UR-120 “Spock” SJX Watches
Urwerk Introduces Oct 4, 2022

Urwerk Introduces the UR-120 “Spock”

Having invented the satellite-cube hour indicator, Urwerk is undoubtedly leading practitioner of contemporary watchmaking. But the brand has continue to tweak its unconventional time displays, including the most recent swivelling-prism hours within a glass cylinder. Now the brand has gone back to its roots while simultaneously innovating. The UR-120 “Spock” is a novel take on its signature wandering hours that has the familiar triple satellites on a carousel, but each satellite is actually a pair of cubes that sequentially split, rotate, and converge in order to display the hours. Initial thoughts Credit goes to Urwerk for continuing to innovate with its avant-garde displays. The newest invention retains the recognisable Urwerk look and feel but creates a more dynamic visual display with the splitting and joining motions. The two-part hour cube is clever, though not entirely new. It reminds me of the Harry Winston Opus Eleven, a far more complex interpretation of the concept that relied on four panels to display each hour numeral – one so complex the watch never made it to market. While the two-part cube display is new, the rest of the movement is similar to the UR-110, resulting in similar overall aesthetics. Though unorthodox in style, the UR-120 has a clean styling that makes it legible, though it might take some getting used to when reading the time. One criticism of the dial design concerns the nickel alloy parts produced via the LIGA photolithography tech...

In Depth: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Aug 15, 2022

In Depth: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air

Since it acquired Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps in 2012 Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing and refining its complicated watch offering. Last year it debuted the Carpe Diem minute repeater with automaton, the most complex watch LDFT has developed to date. But the signature completion of Louis Vuitton (LV) is still the patented three-dimensional jumping hours known as Spin Time. The complication relies on 12 cubes to indicate the hours, rotating one by one every hour. Since its introduction in 2009, the Spin Time has been iterated into a variety of formats, including a GMT, regatta countdown chronograph, and most recently a glow-in-the-dark extravaganza. But its most refined form is arguably the Spin Time Air launched in 2019 that has a dozen “floating” cubes arrayed around a movement suspended between the front and back crystals. Initial thoughts The Spin Time Air has all the elements of an interesting watch. Both transparent and striking, the “floating” display brings to mind historical mystery timepieces, with the tall Tambour case serving as the perfect frame for the suspended display. But it is the cubic hour display sets it apart. The hour display is truly unique, even when compared against the most exotic in independent watchmaking. It brings to mind Urwerk’s cubic display found in the UR-210, but that’s a three-dimensional reinterpretation of the wandering hours, whereas the Spin Time is actually an innovative take on the jum...

F.P. Journe Revives the Vagabondage I – with a Few Tweaks SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Revives Apr 1, 2022

F.P. Journe Revives the Vagabondage I – with a Few Tweaks

One of the most unusual amongst F.P. Journe’s offerings, the Vagabondage I was the first of a trio that combined a tortue case with an unconventional time display, along with dials that feature no branding at all. Launched in 2004 and long gone from the brand’s catalogue, the Vagabondage I now makes a return with a new case, dial, and movement – all of which are improved over the original. Initial thoughts The original Vagabondage I was interesting because of its wandering, jumping hour display, along with the central balance wheel visible on the dial. Eighteen years later the new Vagabondage I is interesting for the same reason, because it is essentially the same watch. While the new Vagabondage I has been updated in several ways, ranging from a larger case to a new movement, it retains the familiar look. That also means it looks like a watch from the early 2000s with a slightly dated air compared to most wandering hours on the market today. But that’s exactly what makes it cool. It is an old idea but one that has been improved in just the right ways. Most important amongst them is the case, which wider and longer than the original, giving it dimensions almost identical to the Vagabondage II and III. It still remains elegant and wearable, but the new case size is more appealing than that of the original, which is a little too small. Inching forward Fans of the brand will be familiar with the story of the Vagabondage, but here’s a quick recap: it start with a on...

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V with Titanium Bracelet SJX Watches
Urwerk Introduces Nov 25, 2021

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V with Titanium Bracelet

Urwerk’s entry-level – and most wearable – model from has just got more interesting at Dubai Watch Week with the new UR-100V Full Titanium Jacket, the first metal bracelet for the UR-100 line, and an integrated bracelet at that. Bracelet aside, the UR-100V also gets a new look – muted shades of grey and almost monochromatic – giving the watch a sleek, clean look that’s handsome. Initial thoughts While an integrated bracelet is now the fad for high-end watches, it is relatively unusual for Urwerk. The latest UR-100 is clearly different from the typical Urwerk. Though the brand has installed bracelets on its watches in the past, they were few in number and restricted to the top-of-the-line models like the UR-210. Despite the new(ish) look, the UR-100V is still very much an Urwerk, because the open dial with wandering hours is instantly recognisable. And the bracelet is smartly done with a minimalist style, so it doesn’t get in the way of the design. In fact, the restrained, all-grey palette will be familiar to long-time fans of the brand. The sand-blasted case and bracelet in shades of grey call to mind earlier models like the UR-105 that was finished similarly, as well as the more recent UR-100 Gunmetal. When this arrived in my inbox, I instantly found it attractive, but I thought the construction of bracelet was too simple. In the photos, it lacks the complexity of Urwerk’s signature cases that are finely machined. But after seeing it in the metal I am co...

Gorilla Debuts First Chronograph, a Skeleton in Ceramic and Titanium SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jul 15, 2021

Gorilla Debuts First Chronograph, a Skeleton in Ceramic and Titanium

Founded just five years ago, Gorilla has already established a distinct house style, born of the its two founders’ eye for design. Notably, one of the founders, Octavio Garcia, was design chief at Audemars Piguet for over a decade. The latest from the brand is reassuringly familiar, channeling the style of its inaugural model, but a major step up in terms of form, function, and price – the Fastback Thunderbolt Chronograph. Equipped with a smartly skeletonised dial, it’s the brand’s first chronograph but retains with Gorilla’s recognisable case style. The case is multi-material: a ceramic bezel, followed by an anodised aluminium ring, and then a black-coated titanium case middle and back Initial thoughts Gorilla’s past offerings have been appealing for several reasons. Though evocative of some other well-known designs, its watches are original and handsome – a rare sight at the US$800 price range – and they are usually executed in unusual combinations of materials like titanium and ceramic. At the same time, the brand managed to make uncommon complication relatively affordable, namely the wandering hours display that’s most famously associated with Urwerk and Audemars Piguet in modern watchmaking. The latest offering is an extension of the brand’s strengths. Despite being its first chronograph, the Fastback Thunderbolt Chronograph is well put together, having a skeletonised front that’s intricate in detail and rich in colour that manages to pres...

Only Watch 2021: Urwerk UR-102 “Gaïa” SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-102 “Gaïa” While several Jul 2, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Urwerk UR-102 “Gaïa”

While several of the watchmakers taking part in Only Watch 2021 have turned to historical timepieces for inspiration, all have created new watches for the biennial charity auction, except for Urwerk. An intriguing blend of new and vintage, the UR-102 “Gaïa” is actually one of the brand’s earliest watches that’s been given a new case back decor. Launched in 1997, the UR-102 had a low-cost aluminium case contrasted with a platinum case back, along with a wandering hours display. Urwerk retrieved an original example of the UR-102 to create the Gaïa, which is named after the watchmaking industry prize Urwerk’s twin founders received in 2020. The Gaïa preserves the aluminium case and movement, but its platinum back has been finished with a speckled, blue-lacquer motif inspired by the Gaïa Prize trophy. Initial thoughts While the complexity and materials of the UR-102 “Gaïa” pale in comparison to the brand’s modern-day creations, the Gaïa is significant for the brand both intrinsically and philosophically. The watch itself is historically important, being one of the brand’s first watches, while the reference to the Gaïa Prize is a symbol of Urwerk’s success since the difficult early days when the UR-102 was introduced. In fact, the watch encapsulates Urwerk’s progress over the past 25 years in a tangible sense, with the aluminium case of its early days now bearing the Gaïa Prize motif that exemplifies its success. UFO The Gaïa retains much of th...

Auction Watch: Robert Downey Jr.’s Very Own Urwerk UR-105 SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-105 Best known Jun 21, 2021

Auction Watch: Robert Downey Jr.’s Very Own Urwerk UR-105

Best known for playing Iron Man, Robert Downey Jr. has a penchant for Urwerk’s avant-garde timepieces. In fact, the actor has sported several Urwerk watches in recent years, including an UR-110 RG in Spider-Man Homecoming and an UR-105 CT in Avengers: Endgame. The watches worn by Mr Downey were subsequently sold to benefit charity, raising over US$700,000. Now the watch worn by Mr Downey during the production of Avengers: Endgame, the UR-105 TA “Raging Gold” RDJ, will go under the hammer, with proceeds once again going to charity. Robert Downey Jr. with Yacine Sar, Urwerk’s longtime head of marketing and communications Urwerk doesn’t pay for product placements, and the “RDJ” watches came about from a request by Mr Downey himself. Believing the watches were a perfect fit for Tony Stark, Mr Downey asked for a UR-110 in rose gold during the filming of Spiderman: Homecoming, which turned out to be the first of several. The UR-105 CT worn by Mr Downey playing Tony Stark in Avengers: Endgame And the UR-111C worn during the premiere of Avengers: Endgame, shown here on the owner’s wrist Like the UR-110 RG that started the relationship, the final “RDJ” Urwerk is once again a combination of rose gold and black-coated titanium. A limited edition of 22 pieces launched in 2016, the UR-105 TA “Raging Gold” tells the time with the brand’s trademark wandering hours display, comprising four hour discs on a carousel along with a minute scale on the lower edge o...

Urwerk Introduces the All-Blue UR-100V SJX Watches
Urwerk Introduces Mar 31, 2021

Urwerk Introduces the All-Blue UR-100V

Urwerk’s avant-garde approach to telling the time is most affordable with the UR-100, the brand’s entry-level model that nonetheless features its signature satellite-disc wandering hours. Having been executed in different finishes in several small runs – most recently with the UR-100V T-Rex – the watch now makes its debut in its most novel livery yet – the UR-100V “Blue Planet”. Initial thoughts The Blue Planet is the seventh iteration of the UR-100 – from titanium, to gunmetal, and a luxe version in solid gold – which is unsurprisingly since the model has sold well due to its affordability, wearability, and unique design. The sheer number of editions diminishes the appeal of the Blue Planet somewhat, even though the blue treatment is a first. While the Blue Planet might feel underwhelming simply being a new colour, it is actually unique amongst Urwerk watches for having a blue movement. Despite the Technicolor palette that Urwerk has applied to its cases, its dials – which are actually part of the movement – have always been black, grey, or silver. Though only a new colour, but it’s a departure from the norm for the brand, which typically has a consistent style. So for the Urwerk fan who wants something different, this is something different without being excessive. But for someone casually interested in the brand, this is probably not that different. An all-blue hue The case of the Blue Planet is coated with a dark blue ceramic coating, with th...

Urwerk Unveils the UR-100V T-Rex in Patterned Bronze SJX Watches
Zenith Elite base movement Jan 19, 2021

Urwerk Unveils the UR-100V T-Rex in Patterned Bronze

Synonymous with avant-garde watchmaking, Urwerk’s best-known complication is its reinterpretation of the centuries-old wandering hours, executed in both two- and three-dimensional motion. Just over a year ago, Urwerk unveiled the UR-100 SpaceTime, an easily-wearable, entry-level iteration of the satellite-disc wristwatch. Now the brand has taken the covers off the UR-100V T-Rex. Perhaps the most interesting version of the UR-100 to date, the T-Rex has an aged bronze case covered in a pronounced hobnail pattern that evokes the Tyrannosaurus rex. More notably, the “V” suffix in the model name indicates the Zenith Elite base movement in the original UR-100 has been replaced with a Vaucher automatic. Initial thoughts Still original despite being some two decades old, the satellite hours remains the brand’s forte. And the UR-100 is arguably the most compelling version of the watch in recent year, being both the most affordable and wearable. That probably explains why the UR-100 has sold well, resulting in the brand rolling out several variants in a short span of time, ranging from basic version in steel or titanium to the top of the line model in 18k yellow gold. But the UR-100 is at heart a pared-back design, simpler in form than the brand’s early watches, which are mostly more elaborate in the case construction. So the milled scales on the bronze case of the T-Rex sets it apart from other UR-100s – both in aesthetics and tactile feel – giving it an edgy look...

Up Close: Urwerk UR-220 ‘Falcon Project’ SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-220 ‘Falcon Project’ Fifteen Oct 5, 2020

Up Close: Urwerk UR-220 ‘Falcon Project’

Fifteen years after its debut in the Harry Winston Opus V, Urwerk’s ingenious satellite-cube time display is now in its fifth generation with the just-launched UR-220 ‘Falcon Project’. While the UR-220 resembles its predecessor, the UR-210, a great deal, the new watch has been refined in several substantive ways. Most notably, it is powered by a hand-wind movement, something that’s not been used for the satellite-cube display since the UR-201 from 13 years ago. Initial thoughts A three-dimensional wandering hours, the satellite-cube hour display is one of the most significant innovations in modern-day independent watchmaking. Hours are indicated on three rotating cubes, while a retrograde hand points to the minutes, travelling in sync with the cube for the current hour. The complication has, however, reached a level of maturity. Incredible when it was launched in the Opus V in 2005, the satellite-cube display still remains special, though its impact has been moderated by subsequent inventions by other watchmakers, making it seem less avant-garde. So when I first heard Urwerk was soon to unveil the successor to the UR-210, which was introduced in 2012, I was keen to see the evaluation of the complication. The new UR-220 The UR-220 is unquestionably a better watch – it is slimmer and lighter, as well as face-lifted in terms of design details, and the manual-wind movement is a plus – but it is an incremental evolution over the UR-210, rather than a radical revam...

Urwerk Introduces the UR-220 “Falcon Project” SJX Watches
Zenith Elite calibre Sep 15, 2020

Urwerk Introduces the UR-220 “Falcon Project”

Urwerk has just revealed the next generation of its flagship wristwatch – the UR-220 “Falcon Project”. Retaining the same case shape and signature satellite-cube hour display as its predecessor, the UR-210, the “Falcon Project” is nonetheless an entirely different watch. The UR-220 is powered by a newly-developed movement that hand-wound, instead of automatic as before, and in a first for the brand, the case is made of carbon composite, matched with a rubber-carbon composite strap. Initial thoughts A landmark in avant-garde independent watchmaking for its three-dimensional wandering hours, the UR-201 evolved into the UR-203 and then the UR-210. The new UR-220 is an incremental improvement in the same vein, though a substantial one. I had hoped for a brand-new time display to succeed the satellite-cube indicator, but that is perhaps something for the distant future. Even though the UR-220 retains the same general aesthetic on the front, it is fundamentally different mechanically. The movement has been substantially reengineered – the base remains the Zenith Elite calibre in the UR-210 but now minus automatic mechanism – and now incorporates new functions like the cylindrical service indicator. It also sees the addition of a split power-reserve display, which Urwerk says was a complex mechanism requiring 83 parts. While that may be true, it feels unnecessary, except to give the face a symmetrical layout. But one of the most significant changes is the case mate...

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Les Cabinotiers “The Singing Birds” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Les Cabinotiers “The Apr 24, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Les Cabinotiers “The Singing Birds”

Continuing with the musical theme that begun last year with Les Cabinotiers ‘”La Musique Du Temps”, an assortment of one-off, chiming watches, Vacheron Constantin unveils Les Cabinotiers “The Singing Birds” at Watches & Wonders 2020, the first time-only watches of the line that showcase the brand’s dexterity in traditional decorative crafts. The “Singing Birds” watches interpret the overmatching musical motif artistically with songbirds, rather than literally with striking watches as most of last year’s watches were. Available in four different unique executions, the watches feature dials that combine an engine-turned time display with champleve enamelling, each depicting a different bird – hummingbird, blue jay, blue tit, and robin. From left: Blue Tit, Blue Jay, Hummingbird, and Robin But the watch is more than brightly-feathered aesthetics, it also features a wandering hours display. Though the complication originated 17th century clocks, it remains relatively rare, with the most famous modern-day examples being the Audemars Piguet Star Wheel and Urwerk. Vacheron Constantin has only ever utilised the wandering hours on limited edition or unique timepieces, like the Métiers d’Art Savoirs Enluminés of 2016. The current hour is displayed across an arc marked out in minutes – as the hour “wanders”, it simultaneously indicates the minutes. It takes an hour for the number to cover the arc, and as it disappears on the far right, the next hour...

Emile Chouriet Introduces the Héritier à Guichet SJX Watches
Apr 15, 2020

Emile Chouriet Introduces the Héritier à Guichet

A brand specialising in affordable watches priced under US$2,000, Emile Chouriet has a fairly generic line-up, but with one obvious exception, the Héritier à Guichets. Showing the time and calendar in windows, the watch is inspired by timepieces of the 1920s, while having a titanium case with fancy lugs. Named after a 17th century French watchmaker, the brand was founded in 1998 by a Swiss businessman but acquired a decade later by Fiyta, a Shenzhen-based watchmaker best known for producing the chronograph issued to Chinese astronauts. Consequently, Emile Chouriet now focuses its efforts on the Chinese market, but the Héritier à Guichet combines an Art Deco style and novel time display that doubtlessly has wider appeal. Digital time displays became fashionable during the Art Deco period, with pocket watches sporting jumping or wandering hours, or even full calendar displays in an elongated window. The Héritier à Guichet takes inspiration from that early 20th century style, reproducing it in an affordable manner. A pale metallic grey with a radial-brushed finish, the dial consists of four windows, with the two closest to the centre showing the hours and minutes, while the outer apertures with wider bevels displaying the day and date. The hours and minutes, however, are not instantaneously jumping displays, instead they are “dragging” indicators that continually move just as conventional hands would. Also unusual is the case: though it has a moderate 40 mm di...

Hands-On: Urwerk UR-100 Gunmetal SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-100 Gunmetal Last year Jan 29, 2020

Hands-On: Urwerk UR-100 Gunmetal

Last year Urwerk launched the UR-100 SpaceTime, a watch that installed the brand’s signature wandering hours satellite display in newly designed watch case. Unsurprisingly the UR-100 SpaceTime became a brisk seller, not only because it is the most affordable model in the catalogue, but also because its case is compact and relatively conventional in shape, making it the most wearable Urwerk watch by far. And so Urwerk has followed up with the UR-100 Gunmetal, a new variant that arrives just four months after four months after the model was launched. It feels a little bit too soon for another edition, but the Gunmetal is different enough – and the original versions are almost sold out – that it can be forgiven. Steel in disguise While the case of the new UR-100 remains the same design, the finish is unusual. The material looks like titanium, even up close it resembles titanium, but in the hand it is obviously too heavy to be titanium. The case is actually steel, which has been sandblasted to give it a smooth, matte finish and then coated with a dark grey coating. That’s a bit of a surprise, because watch cases that look like titanium are almost always titanium. But Urwerk’s rationale for using steel is practical: hard-coated steel is more resistant to scratches than titanium, which is generally quite soft. The result is watch that has a strong sci-fi military look, like a piece of kit used by the Marines in Aliens, which is very much Urwerk’s original house styl...

Hands-On: Urwerk x De Bethune Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
De Bethune Moon Satellite Nov 1, 2019

Hands-On: Urwerk x De Bethune Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019

The collaboration between Urwerk and De Bethune for the upcoming Only Watch is pretty straightforward: an Urwerk wandering hours time display module mounted on a De Bethune base movement, and housed in a De Bethune case. But it works, and the Moon Satellite is one of the coolest watches of the charity auction. Conceptually the Moon Satellite is similar to the Arpal One made for the last Only Watch. Long and sleek, the Arpal One was a collaboration between Urwerk and Laurent Ferrier that looked good, but with an enormous case – it was 60.8m long – that was much too large. The Moon Satellite, on the other hand, is just right. That’s because the case is derived from De Bethune DB28, which is a large watch but one with a smallish footprint and sprung, pivoted lugs that allow it to hug the wrist. The Moon Satellite is slightly larger than a DB28, but almost the same on the wrist. Entirely in mirror polished titanium, the case looks like a helmet for a warrior robot. Its shape is asymmetric – angular on the lower half and rounded at the top – in order to accommodate the time display. It’s reminiscent of a helmet, but instantly recognisable as coming from Urwerk, having the U-shaped crystal first found on the Urwerk UR-103 and now on the UR-105. Coincidentally, both Urwerk and De Bethune position the crowns on most of their watches at 12 o’clock, and so there it is. Though it has a similar shape to the standard Urwerk crown, the Moon Satellite crown is flat, so tha...

De Bethune & Urwerk Introduce the Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
De Bethune & Urwerk Introduce Sep 23, 2019

De Bethune & Urwerk Introduce the Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019

When Urwerk cofounder Felix Baumgartner was in town recently to launch the UR-100 SpaceTime, I quizzed him on the De Bethune and Urwerk collaboration for Only Watch 2019. While the other brands taking part in the charity auction had already unveiled photos or renderings of their respective creations, Urwerk and De Bethune only offered a pen drawing. Felix replied that the movement had been completed and delivered to De Bethune some weeks ago, and Denis Flageollet, De Bethune’s resident technical genius, was working on building the one-off titanium case. And now Mr Flageollet has completed the watch, and this is it. The initial drawing The meeting of minds Named the Moon Satellite, the watch is essentially an Urwerk wandering hours time display module – with the time indicated on satellites – mounted on top of a hand-wound De Bethune movement, resulting in the cal. DBUR2105. Visually the movement is trademark De Bethune. The calibre has a delta-shaped barrel bridge that is entirely mirror polished, as is the base plate, one of the most distinctive movement treatments of De Bethune. And in striking contrast against the polished surfaces, the balance and shock absorber bridges are in blued steel. The base movement cal. DB2105 boasts several of De Bethune’s patented innovations, including a spider-like titanium balance wheel, the triple pare-chute shock absorber for the balance, as well as the De Bethune hairspring and silicon escape wheel. And it also incorporat...

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100 SpaceTime SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet with the Star Wheel But Sep 12, 2019

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100 SpaceTime

Known for its innovative, avant-garde complications and cases inspired by sci-fi, Urwerk’s latest creation is doubly interesting. The UR-100 SpaceTime takes the astronomical theme even further with two quirky, celestial indicators – and it is also priced as an entry-level model. The UR-100 utilises the brand’s signature wandering-hours satellite display, where conventional hands are replaced by a semi-circular minute gauge, across which three discs mounted on a carousel sweep successively. It was originally invented in the 17th century for a Vatican City clock, then popularised for wristwatches in the early 1990s by Audemars Piguet with the Star Wheel. But it was Urwerk that took the wandering hours into the 21st century when it launched at UR-103 in 2003; though it was not the first Urwerk wristwatch, the UR-103 was the watch that put the brand on the map (and the recent UR-105 is a nod to the original). Celestial hours On the UR-100 SpaceTime, the hours wander even further: once the red minute pointer completes 60 minutes (or an hour), it disappears under a bridge and reappears through a cutout at 10 o’clock to indicate the distance travelled from the Earth’s rotation on its own axis, as measured at the equator, or 555km every 20 minutes. Another red pointer at two o’clock measures the distance travelled by the Earth orbiting the Sun, which is 35,740km every 20 minutes. Both astronomical distance displays, however, are a philosophical exercis...

A Useless Bit Of Consumer Advice: A Review Of The Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes Fratello
Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes We love Aug 20, 2024

A Useless Bit Of Consumer Advice: A Review Of The Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes

We love to provide proper, useful consumer advice here on Fratello. Unfortunately, I won’t be doing that today. Instead, I’ll be writing about my experience trying on one of my favorite releases of this year, the Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes. This is a watch that, even if you could afford it, isn’t available anymore. I thought […] Visit A Useless Bit Of Consumer Advice: A Review Of The Cartier Tortue Hours/Minutes to read the full article.

Introducing: Cartier Privé Collection Tortue Hours/Minutes And Monopoussoir Chronograph Fratello
Cartier Privé Collection Tortue Hours/Minutes Apr 9, 2024

Introducing: Cartier Privé Collection Tortue Hours/Minutes And Monopoussoir Chronograph

Cartier is a brand that knows how to manage its hero designs. Few brands have as many iconic designs under their wings as the Parisian Maison. The Tortue is one that you may not be as familiar with as the Tank and the Santos. That could very well be because it hasn’t been in Cartier’s […] Visit Introducing: Cartier Privé Collection Tortue Hours/Minutes And Monopoussoir Chronograph to read the full article.

The Hamilton Wandering Earth II expands the brand horizons, without spoilers Time+Tide
Hamilton Wandering Earth II expands Mar 25, 2023

The Hamilton Wandering Earth II expands the brand horizons, without spoilers

The Swiss watchmaker collaborates with a Chinese movie production producing two Hamilton Wandering Earth special editions A limited, transparent case model will be available in mainland China only, while Australians can find the two special editions in the Time+Tide Shop  The second special edition is an adaptation of the Jazzmaster Thinline, with a Wandering Earth-themed … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Wandering Earth II expands the brand horizons, without spoilers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser Updates their Flying Hours Complication and Adds a Smoked Salmon Perpetual Calendar for Geneva Watch Days Worn & Wound
H. Moser Updates their Flying Hours Sep 8, 2025

H. Moser Updates their Flying Hours Complication and Adds a Smoked Salmon Perpetual Calendar for Geneva Watch Days

At last year’s Geneva Watch Days, H. Moser had one of the most talked about (and divisive) releases of the week, a splashy collaboration with Studio Underd0g that saw the high end and affordable indie sharing a passion fruit inspired colorway across a pair of watches, sold as a set. It generated a lot of opinions and was, for a time, one of the most buzzed about watches of the year. Moser returned to Geneva Watch Days this year with a slate of new releases that, I think, has succeeded in evading the kinds of hot takes we saw last year, while still, as always, being very “Moser.” The new Pioneer Flying Hours and Endeavour Perpetual Calendar in smoked salmon might not inspire heated opinion pieces from watch writers like yours truly, but they remain exciting in their own way in a year that’s already seen Moser push some boundaries and play with our expectations. The new reference in the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar line is about as classic Moser as it gets. This dial color was first introduced in a Streamliner back in 2023, and was an immediate hit for the way it spun the traditional idea of a “salmon” dial into a new, more contemporary context. Less rosy pink and more of a metallic rust, this salmon dial has a reserved and almost autumnal presence that really suits the Endeavour, itself a more reserved and mature segment of the Moser lineup. The case of the perpetual calendar is white gold and measures 42mm in diameter, and wears extremely well, if not razor thi...

Cartier Announced Diamond Hours for the Ballon bleu de Cartier and Tank Française watches! Revolution
Cartier Announced Diamond Hours Jun 2, 2014

Cartier Announced Diamond Hours for the Ballon bleu de Cartier and Tank Française watches!

With the release of two very popular models in steel with diamonds and in steel gold with diamonds, the Tank Francaise and the Ballon Bleu, Cartier is spoiling the ladies again! Up till now, Cartier have not really featured both diamonds and steel in a single watch before, and in the Ballon bleu collection we now see […]