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Is The IWC Ingenieur 35 Superior Shrunken Down? (Hands On) WatchAdvice
Ming increasingly accustomed Jul 17, 2026

Is The IWC Ingenieur 35 Superior Shrunken Down? (Hands On)

The IWC Ingenieur 35 comes in a smaller package – but does it still make the same big impact? Let’s find out! What We Love: A well-wearing compact case Smartly proportioned without compromise Unisex appeal for the size What We Don’t: No micro-adjustment a missed opportunity Butterfly clasp felt fiddly What does IWC want the Ingenieur to be? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 8/10 It’s a small world these days. Rapid communication, travel, and deeply connected economies are bringing everything closer than ever, and people are becoming increasingly accustomed to the appeal of compaction. No industry has been able to completely ignore the effects of downsizing, and in the watch world, that shift couldn’t be more apparent. Once considered the hallmark of vintage taste or dedicated enthusiasm, the small watch has found itself in high demand. More than simply a correction of a trend, consumers are increasingly drawn towards intent and proportion over hyper-tangible, bold statement pieces. Compelling watchmaking is no longer measured by square footage, and brands around the world have shifted to meet consumers where they are. This is especially apparent with the IWC Ingenieur as it exists today. Reimagined by Gerald Genta as a “Jumbo” model measuring 40mm in diameter, Genta’s revision earned fame for its ability to command presence through pragmatic minimalism and bold lines. When IWC re-released the col...

Bring a Loupe: An Hermès Caleche, A Chromed Angelus, And A Rolex SARU Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Jul 17, 2026

Bring a Loupe: An Hermès Caleche, A Chromed Angelus, And A Rolex SARU

We may not be, as Rob Thomas serenaded us way back, seven inches from the midday sun, but hoo boy, however close we are is plenty (I know, I know: 93 million miles). I hope wherever you're reading this is appreciably cooler and/or not too clogged with smoke, and for the dog owners, I hope your canine companion's finally shaken off the terror of the holiday two weeks back. Scorekeeping last week's pick, the Tudor Inter Miami Pink sold for TKTK ($19,500 currently, sells thrs), the Longines Ultra-Chron went for £440, the Jaeger chronograph sells Saturday, and both Rangers are still (implausibly—what are you waiting for?) available. Strays Photo courtesy Aletheia Subastas. If you missed the Tudor Ranger II from a bit back, here's a hell of a nice example. This Jaeger-LeCoultre is the nicest plain jane, solid gold watch I've seen in a bit, and it's powered by a P469/A, meaning you'll have a watch using the same engine that helped tens of thousands of WWII guys stay on time. This Eberhard simply looks like it'd be a fun wear, and sometimes that's plenty, and while this Edox Geoscope 42 is a bit on the complicated side, its fun factor is still real high. For those interested in flexing their maritime bona fides, here's a great-looking near-NOS Heuer Regatta from Hess Fine Art, and, in the same auction, there's also this Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 and this Mk1 Sea-Dweller ref 1665 (both from 1978, if someone's hankering to buy me a birth-year watch). Finally, here's an excellen...

Introducing the Bremont Supernova Hawking Worn & Wound
Bremont Supernova Hawking Many watches Jul 16, 2026

Introducing the Bremont Supernova Hawking

Many watches have been named for athletes, explorers, and artists, mostly to boost an air of sportiness, robustness, or sophistication. Still, it’s hard to imagine a more appropriate arena for a wristwatch than the field science as a whole; British brand Bremont agrees, and to celebrate one of the most famous and culturally pervasive scientists of the past two centuries, they have created the Supernova Hawking Limited Edition, named for preeminent thinker, Professor Stephen Hawking.  Known more for their mil-spec pieces, Bremont may seem like a strange choice for such a namesake watch, but given their status as a British brand of repute, it makes sense that they’d want to showcase a fellow English pioneer. The base of the Hawking is the Supernova, first launched in April of this year, and boasting a 41mm ultra black DLC-treated steel case with multilayered construction. The geometric aesthetic of the case, pushers, and crown, reflect Hawking’s work in the space engineering field—most notably his groundbreaking research into black holes. Black watches have had a bit of a renaissance as of late, and wear well with almost any other color, so the choice here makes sense from a source-of-inspiration standpoint, as well as an aesthetic one.  A black decahedral ceramic bezel surrounds the dial, which in turn features an interlocking, galvanic black grid motif with triangular pathways, inspired by the design of solar arrays. Two meteorite subdials adorn the dial, at 3 an...

Introducing: The Solar Orbiter Watch Winder For The MB&F; M.A.D.Gallery Hodinkee
MB&F; Jul 16, 2026

Introducing: The Solar Orbiter Watch Winder For The MB&F; M.A.D.Gallery

What We Know This year marks 15 years of MB&F;'s M.A.D.Gallery, a unique boutique concept that serves as both a storefront for MB&F;'s wildly inventive horological creations and a showcase of mechanical art from artists around the world (and yes, you can buy those pieces, too). As one of the projects celebrating this anniversary, the folks behind the M.A.D.Gallery has commissioned British designer Martin Smith to create one of the most unique watch winders I've ever seen, in a limited edition of 10 pieces. To say that this is a bit of an unconventional design for a watch winder would be an understatement, and it's something that I can't stop looking at. Designer Martin Smith playing with one of his other kinetic sculptures. The sculptural form of the Solar Orbiter stands at a height of 60cm—that's around two feet tall for us Americans—and spans a width and depth (essentially a diameter of the piece) of 40cm or around 16 inches. In the chaos of the two feet of powder-coated steel, aluminum, brass, wood, and electronics, Smith draws inspiration from the whimsy of pop art, toys, and Eames' iconic Solar Do-Nothing Machine from the fifties to create a spinning, rotating sculpture that is hard to ignore in any room.  But most importantly, there is functionality to it all, as part of the spinning arm of the Solar Orbiter holds a watch to perpetually wind as the machine goes on. There are over 300 handmade parts in this piece, and the design certainly doesn't hide any of them. ...

Nodus and Raven Collaborate on their Fourth TrailTrekker Worn & Wound
Nodus Jul 16, 2026

Nodus and Raven Collaborate on their Fourth TrailTrekker

Nodus and Raven have collaborated once again for their fourth edition of their popular TrailTrekker watch, a sporty GMT with EDC design codes. This new release is perhaps the most EDC oriented yet, with the prominent use of forged carbon fiber front and center on the dial and bezel, as well as lots of decorative lume. It also represents the first time a TrailTrekker has crossed the thousand dollar mark, but this one feels like it’s a step up in terms of its ambition, and seeing all four on the Nodus website side by side, it’s clear the two brands are building out a product line that can be taken in a number of different directions going forward.  The new TrailTrekker Carbon maintains certain core design elements that Nodus and Raven have always adhered to with these watches. The basic principle is relatively simple: it combines the Nodus Contrail’s sporty case profile with Raven’s dial design (most notably in their Trekker series) that prioritizes legibility and functionality above all else. Each TrailTrekker, including the new Carbon version, also makes use of the Miyota 9075 GMT movement, an easy to operate “true” GMT that is a genuinely great option for travel.  A huge part of the appeal of the original TrailTrekker was its unique bead blasted “Clay” colored case finishing. This new edition appears to have a similar vibe, with a gray DLC treatment over the steel case and bracelet that is just a shade or two lighter than solid black. Nodus and Raven hav...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Guido Terreni (Chief Executive Officer, Parmigiani Fleurier) Hodinkee
Parmigiani Fleurier Jul 15, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Guido Terreni (Chief Executive Officer, Parmigiani Fleurier)

This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the leader behind one of the strongest turnaround stories in the industry in recent years. Guido Terreni joined Parmigiani Fleurier as CEO in January 2021 from Bulgari and has overseen a dramatic transformation in the design, style, and fortunes of the brand founded by master watchmaker and restoration expert Michel Parmigiani in 1996, with backing from the Sandoz Family Foundation. Under Terreni's guidance, Parmigian Fleurier has been transformed. Striving to convey the concept of "private luxury," the brand has released a series of surprising, elegant, technically innovative, and yet restrained timepieces under its Tonda PF and Toric model lines.  The brand has done nothing less than reimagine and reinterpret classic complications, including the GMT and, most recently, the Tonda PF Chronograph Mysteriéux, which stole the show, for many, at this year's Watches and Wonders.  In a wide-ranging conversation, Terreni unveils the philosophy behind the brand's discreet aesthetic and the structure behind its manufacture and organization. We discuss retail, production, and design concepts aimed at taking Parmigiani Fleurier to the next level in the hyper-competitive luxury space.   There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an epis...

Swatch Asks the Importance Questions: Introducing the What If…Jelly? Collection Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Jul 14, 2026

Swatch Asks the Importance Questions: Introducing the What If…Jelly? Collection

This was supposed to be the summer of the Royal Pop. Still the biggest cultural moment for watches of the year, the Royal Pop launch did not exactly go as anyone anticipated, and it created perhaps the wrong kind of crossover moment for all involved. I’ve come to think that the product itself, a colorful pocket watch sharing a silhouette with the Royal Oak, is a lot of fun and a genuinely good and smart idea, but the rollout was so epically poor it will take a long time for the sour taste in all of our mouths to be washed away.  I’m not quite sure what the current availability of Royal Pops actually is in the various Swatch boutiques that are designated to sell them. I’ve seen exactly one in the wild, at Windup Chicago over the weekend, worn on the wrist of an attendee on an aftermarket strap of some kind. It’s safe to say, though, that it has not yet caught on as a Labubu-like sensation the way that Audemars Piguet and Swatch likely hoped that it would.  So, like Swatch themselves, I’m forced to ask “What if…?” What if the Royal Pop had been earmarked for a summer 2027 release instead, and that this year’s big launch was actually the one that came across the transom last week? The new “What If…Jelly?” is one of my favorite types of Swatch releases: those that remind us that what the brand does best are not the intra-group collabs like the MoonSwatch or big hype pieces like the Royal Pop, but the colorful, purely original designs that could only b...

Dispatch: From The World's Factory To A Watchmaking Culture: What I Saw At Shenzhen Watch Week Hodinkee
Behrens CIGA Design Jul 14, 2026

Dispatch: From The World's Factory To A Watchmaking Culture: What I Saw At Shenzhen Watch Week

Shenzhen Watch Week is China's premier annual event dedicated to the watch industry. More than just a trade show, it brings together established brands, independent watchmakers, suppliers, and manufacturers, offering perhaps the clearest snapshot of where Chinese watchmaking stands today. For anyone interested in understanding the industry beyond its reputation as "the world's factory," there are few better places to start. There are surprisingly few opportunities anywhere in the world to experience so many Chinese watch brands under one roof. Switzerland has Watches & Wonders and Geneva Watch Days, while Japan hosts brand presentations, watch fairs, and events such as Tokyo Watch Week. But an exhibition devoted almost entirely to Chinese watchmaking is something quite different.  In recent years, brands such as Behrens, CIGA Design, and Fam al Hut have begun attracting international attention, winning prestigious awards, and demonstrating that China is capable of far more than manufacturing for others. Yet outside China, it remains virtually impossible to see these brands together or experience their watches firsthand. That is why, when I received an invitation to attend Shenzhen Watch Week, I wanted to see for myself what is happening in Chinese watchmaking today. Watches made in China are, of course, nothing unusual. Many of the world's leading brands—including Swiss manufacturers—rely on Chinese suppliers for cases, dials, bracelets, hands, movement components, an...

Hands-On: the Split GMT Worn & Wound
Citizen s movement factory earlier Jul 13, 2026

Hands-On: the Split GMT

The longer I navigate my watch journey, the more I realize it’s a bit like dating. You get a press kit and metaphorically swipe left or right in a very judging-the-book-by-its-cover type of way. The aesthetics are often the first thing to draw you in and make you curious or to turn you away. In either case, as a good journalist, I’m usually compelled to read the press release and gather a bit more information, skim the profile if you will. I can fully admit aesthetics are highly subjective, but substance is vital. Still, I can’t fully assess a watch without going hands-on. Images can either disappoint or not quite do justice to a design, and the promises spelled out in specs need to be put to the test. Seeing a watch is the real make or break moment to determine if we’re a perfect match. I recently went through this dating ritual with Split watches, a London-based independent brand making its U.S. debut with a new GMT. A few things really stood out to me when I first received the announcement. The look of the watches was interesting, combining unique design elements, shapes, and colors. Reading about the vision behind the design was poetic, drawing from elements of music and nature – two of my favorite sources of inspiration. The watches are powered by the Miyota 9075 true GMT movement – calibers I’ve developed even more appreciation for after visiting Citizen’s movement factory earlier this year.  Beyond the watches themselves, I was equally impressed wit...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: the New Dune Trailer, a Fiat Arrives Stateside, and a New Watch from Haim Worn & Wound
Jul 11, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: the New Dune Trailer, a Fiat Arrives Stateside, and a New Watch from Haim

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Dune: Part Three – Official Trailer The trailer for Dune: Part Three dropped this week and, brother, I am seated. With each installment of Frank Herbert’s franchise, I am reminded just how well-deserved the $1.15 billion gross at box office has been. It has been no small feat for director Denis Villeneuve to make the vast scale and lore of Herbert’s universe digestible for mass-market appeal, while also being true to the intricacies of its source material. For Part Three, the story will focus on the culmination of Paul Atreides’ story, with his holy war now in motion and political tensions ever-present and ever-threatening (and, as a little treat, we also get to see that little freak Robert Pattinson with bleached hair and eyebrows). While this film marks the end to Villeneuve’s series, the franchise only focuses on the first two novels, leaving plenty of room for future filmmakers who are up for the challenge. But I know that good things come to those who wait, so I’m hoping there’s a director out there just chomping at the bit to bring Leto II and his big, disgusting sandworm body to IMAX. Meta Now Lets Anyone Use Your Instagram Photos in AI Images—Un...

Fratello Talks: The Ultimate Omega Speedmaster Debate - Which Model Defines The Legend? Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Debate — Which Jul 10, 2026

Fratello Talks: The Ultimate Omega Speedmaster Debate - Which Model Defines The Legend?

Few watches have inspired as many variations, stories, and passionate debates as the Omega Speedmaster. Over nearly seven decades, it has evolved from a racing chronograph into one of the most celebrated watches in horology, with countless references that appeal to a wide range of collectors. Ask three enthusiasts to name their favorite Speedmasters, and […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Ultimate Omega Speedmaster Debate — Which Model Defines The Legend? to read the full article.

Assembled By Me: Inside Studio Underd0g's Watch Assembly Experience Hodinkee
Ming Townhouse From Jul 9, 2026

Assembled By Me: Inside Studio Underd0g's Watch Assembly Experience

In 2020, watches became a real escape for a lot of us. Instagram, Facebook groups, even Clubhouse (who remembers that?) were thriving, and for me, watches had become more than a 9-5 as I fell deeper into those communities. It's where I first came across a guy on Facebook talking about a watch he'd designed that was 'inspired by a watermelon'. Every time it appeared, the comments filled with feedback as he gauged whether people were actually interested. They were. And now, six years later, that man, Richard Benc of Studio Underd0g, has just opened the doors to his very own watch assembly workshop here in the UK called 'The D0ghouse'. Roughly 45 minutes by train from Central London, the building in Maidenhead is a fusion of creative interior design and legitimate horological assembly, and anyone can experience the process first-hand. For £700, Studio Underd0g will sit you at a watchmaker's bench and guide you through the assembly of your own watch. What they're offering isn't a tour or just a showroom (they have that on-site, too), but a set of tweezers, a loupe, and an opportunity to experience the Underd0g, hands-on. That alone makes The D0ghouse worth the journey, but having just completed the experience myself, what I didn't expect was how much it would adjust my understanding of what this six-year-old brand has actually become. The Unassuming Townhouse From the outside, The D0ghouse is simply a Victorian townhouse on Park Street, the same address that Benc's friends an...

Christopher Ward Introduces The Twelve Xander, a New Collaboration with The Dial Artist Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Jul 9, 2026

Christopher Ward Introduces The Twelve Xander, a New Collaboration with The Dial Artist

As Christopher Ward has grown in stature in recent years, it’s their most ambitious watches that have resonated the most with me, personally. Nothing against the Sealanders, Tridents, and the like, but the brand has really become interesting to me with watches like the Bel Canto and the Loco, and even the more artistic, design forward stuff like the C1 Moonphase. The Twelve collection falls into a middle ground, of sorts. The Loco, their most avant-garde watch, is built on the Twelve platform, but at its core it’s a fairly straightforward (though incredibly well made) integrated bracelet sports watch, something the hobby is not exactly in short supply of these days. But they occasionally stretch the bounds of the Twelve, exploring a variety of materials, ultra-thin case designs, and even finishing techniques.  And that brings us to the latest release from the UK based brand, the all new The Twelve Xander, a 150 piece limited edition made in collaboration with The Dial Artist, otherwise known as Chris Alexander. Chris has been expanding his portfolio as of late, after getting his start in the watch world adding custom, graffiti inspired art to off-the-shelf watches. He’s now an in-demand collaborator, having worked with brands like Holthinrichs on completely original dial designs and executions.  What makes this new project somewhat different is that there’s no actual “dial” for The Dial Artist to paint. The Twelve X is fully skeletonized, so Chris has added h...

First Look - The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Elbrouz Limited Edition 829 Monochrome
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Jul 9, 2026

First Look - The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Elbrouz Limited Edition 829

Many of the overtly vintage design cues of Montblanc’s 1858 collection are inspired by Minerva’s military watches from the 1930s, renowned for their precision and legibility in extreme conditions. Promoted as rugged, reliable companions for mountaineering and outdoor adventures, the 1858 Geosphere combines its retro looks with a worldtimer featuring two rotating globes depicting the […]

The Business of Watches Podcast: Henrik Ekdahl (Managing Director, Leica Watches & Accessories) Hodinkee
IWC Jul 8, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Henrik Ekdahl (Managing Director, Leica Watches & Accessories)

This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Wetzlar, Germany, home of the legendary camera and lens maker, Leica. Of course, Leica isn't just an optics company. Since 2015, it's been on a new mission to create watches as well, a project initiated by Leica's controlling shareholder, Dr. Andreas Kaufmann, who is not only passionate about cameras and photography, but also timepieces.  Henrik Ekdahl wearing a Leica watch and using a Leica camera in 1996 (left) during his first stint with the brand, and in 2024 (right) wearing a newer model Leica watch, after rejoining the company as head of watches and accessories. (Photo courtesy Leica) The person in charge of Leica's nascent watch ambitions is Henrik Ekdahl, a convivial Swede who has returned to Leica after more than two decades away, spent in the executive ranks of automakers, and, most recently, watchmakers such as IWC. Leica's connection to watchmaking is not unwarranted. Ernst Leitz, the company's founder, studied watchmaking in Neuchâtel in the 1860s. It was partly this mechanical know-how that allowed him to begin producing optical instruments, including microscopes and cameras, in Germany and to create the foundation for the company that would become Leica. The latest iteration of Leica watches, launched in 2022, is currently distributed only at Leica stores and online. Less than 5,000 watches are currently being produced each year by the brand, but Ekdahl says the watch division has ambitions to grow and make fu...

Review: the Isotope OVNI Jumping Hour Founders Edition Worn & Wound
Isotope OVNI Jumping Hour Founders Jul 7, 2026

Review: the Isotope OVNI Jumping Hour Founders Edition

They say good things come to those who wait. It’s almost a decade since Isotope launched their Rider Jumping Hour, and has introduced a variety of GMTs, dive watches, chronographs and dress watches since then, without revisiting one of my favorite complications. It feels like a couple of years ago that Isotope founder José Miranda began to tease the long awaited follow up to watch enthusiasts at events across the globe. Last August the OVNI Jumping Hour Founders Edition was finally unveiled to the world. The 150 Founders Edition watches sold out during the pre-order period, and now a production piece has landed on my desk. Since its inception, the OVNI has promised to be an other-worldly timepiece, from its name right through to its flying saucer form, and at first glance it hasn’t shied away from that aspiration. So, how easy is it to live with a UFO on your wrist? When talking about the OVNI, it makes sense to start with the case. Named OVNI (the Portuguese equivalent of Unidentified Flying Object is Objeto Voador Nãu Identificado), the body of the watch is designed to mimic the traditional flying saucer shape associated with UFOs throughout the years. Crafted from 904L stainless steel and given a brushed finish, the case is an oblate spheroid, slightly flatter on the back than the front. It resembles a perfect ball of steel that has been left out in the hot, hot sun. Smooth and organic, yet dense and alien. The lugs and crown are attached to the case rather than f...

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [June 2026] Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain Jul 7, 2026

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [June 2026]

The third time is the charm, as we recently hosted the third edition of what's quickly becoming a regular fixture on the calendar—Hodinkee Happy Hour. Grotta, our local watering hole, was the venue this time around, and the room delivered the same energy as always. Great conversations, great company, and no shortage of great watches to look at—a few of which you'll see below. If you made it out, thank you for coming. If not, we'll be doing it again at the end of July. Follow us on Instagram to be the first to know when RSVPs open.  Blancpain Léman Perpetual Calendar Flyback Chronograph A Cartier Tank Basculante in it's natural form... ... and in motion. Alex Chou wearing his A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1. Katie Penner, of Watches of Switzerland, and Hodinkee Video Editor Max Rosen. A trio of Ressence. A look at a F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain (on bracelet, no less) from the front... ... and the back. Vertex M36 Desert Edition. A little two-tone love for the Zenith Chronomaster Sport... And Rolex Datejust. Rolex Submariner. Rolex Cosmograph "Alcaraz" Daytona on an Oysterflex bracelet. Vacheron Contantin 333. A Swiss "Chronographe Suisse" Chonograph... (Swiss, chronograph, Swiss, chronograph, swiss...) Omega Seamaster De Ville and a good ol' pie-pan Omega Seamaster. Panerai Luminor Marina. Right, Editor-in-Chief James Stacey is wearing his DWC Terra. Urwerk UR-120.

First Look - The New, Summer-Inspired IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 Pool Monochrome
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 Pool Jul 6, 2026

First Look - The New, Summer-Inspired IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 Pool

IWC’s Ingenieur tool watch, introduced in the mid-1950s, was specifically designed to handle magnetic environments thanks to its soft-iron cage. However, in 1976, the classic round watch fell into the hands of Gérald Genta, who transformed it into an integrated, anti-magnetic tool watch known as the Ingenieur SL Jumbo. After several remakes, the Ingenieur finally […]

Bring a Loupe: A Million Valjoux 72, An 18k Gold Constellation, And A Sarpaneva Moomin Hodinkee
Grand Seiko SBGW235 Jul 3, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Million Valjoux 72, An 18k Gold Constellation, And A Sarpaneva Moomin

Happy Friday again, Ballers, and congrats to whoever snagged the Omega 2998-4 on Goodwill earlier this week. I'm fighting multiple aspects of my nature—as a midwesterner and a dad—to avoid making lame jokes about the heat, but fingers crossed, the fever's breaking, and it'll return to average temperatures sometime soon for all of us. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Hamilton sold for $4,300, the Speedmaster Soyuz for €18,000, and the Universal Genève Rattrapante for GBP 4,250 . The Goldpfiel Vianney Halter sold, but the auction house hasn't listed the price online and hasn't responded to my email, so we'll all have to live with the mystery. Strays I mentioned Always Sunny last week, and now this week there's this exquisite Movado Ermeto with a caseback dedication—Dennis from Mac—that feels too good not to include. I figured it'd be fun to stir the pot last week and argue the Hamilton Model 21 as the Most Important American Watch in history. For whatever it's worth, the runner-up would've been the Bulova Accutron, and the purest expression of that watch is the Spaceview, of which there's a nice (though non-running) version available here, which auction lot also includes a Spaceman watch (also not working), and the Spaceman, for what it's worth, deserves more oddball attention.  Photo courtesy of Seuyco. Here's an almost comically reserved but gorgeous Grand Seiko SBGW235, and, in the same auction, here's what sure seems to be a great example of an IWC 'Steril...

Commemorate a Personal Milestone with Apiar’s Next Highly Limited Edition Gen 1.1 White Meridian Worn & Wound
Jul 3, 2026

Commemorate a Personal Milestone with Apiar’s Next Highly Limited Edition Gen 1.1 White Meridian

I’m not going to say I’m biased toward celestial watches to a fault, but as the resident astrology girl, I’m most certainly a little biased anytime a watch incorporates the stars, moon, or planets. Whether you check your horoscope or not, there’s something undeniably alluring about the constellations and the shapes they take – one that connects us to the vastness of time and space, to a very ancient human desire to make sense of the universe, or, in the case of Apiar’s latest limited edition Gen 1.1 White Meridian, one that connects you to a very specific place and time.  It’s no coincidence that horology and astrology have long gone hand in hand and that the imagery of celestial bodies have long appeared in watchmaking (more on that in a future story I’ve been spinning up for some time now). I digress, today, Apiar adds another timepiece to this longstanding horological lineage with its next special edition version of the Gen 1.1.As a refresher, the Gen 1.1 is quite new to the brand’s catalog, marking an evolution from the brand’s core Gen 1.0 line. Apiar first debuted the Gen 1.1 earlier this year at the British Watchmaker’s Day festivities. The collection kicked off with a highly limited edition of just three pieces called the Underground, aptly named for its hand-enameled dial inspired by Dr. Maxwell Roberts’ circular redesign of the London Underground map. The model was such a success it was later followed by the Night Tube edition, which you ...

Introducing - The New Chronoswiss Pulse GMT Frosted Guilloche Gold Monochrome
Chronoswiss Pulse GMT Frosted Guilloche Jul 3, 2026

Introducing - The New Chronoswiss Pulse GMT Frosted Guilloche Gold

Presented in 2025, the Pulse collection was a significant departure for Chronoswiss. While retaining signature elements such as the onion crown, coin-edge bezel and layered dial construction, it introduced a newly designed case with an integrated-style bracelet and a very contemporary aesthetic. Earlier this year, the collection welcomed the Pulse GMT models, namely the Enamel […]

Seiko Unveils One-Off Cosmic Watch for Shohei Ohtani SJX Watches
Seiko Unveils One-Off Cosmic Watch Jul 3, 2026

Seiko Unveils One-Off Cosmic Watch for Shohei Ohtani

Seiko’s latest wristwatch is the surprising Star Time, which features a disc-based display that tells the time as well as elapsed time for up to one million hours, equivalent to 114 years. An unconventional and philosophical watch for a typically conservative brand, the Star Time is unfortunately not available commercially but is instead a unique creation for baseball superstar Shohei Ohtani. Japanese by birth but now a star in America’s Major League Baseball, where he plays for the Los Angeles Dodgers, Mr Ohtani is a longtime and loyal Seiko ambassador who first partnered with the watch brand in 2016, well before he was a global star. Though Seiko has unveiled limited edition models associated with the ballplayer in the past, the Star Time is the first unique watch made specifically for Mr Ohtani. Shohei Ohtani (left) and Seiko Watch Corporation Chairman and chief executive Shinji Hattori Initial thoughts The Star Time is a surprise coming from Seiko. Even though Seiko builds excellent watches across the breadth of the price spectrum – while keeping a keen eye on value – its watches are almost always predictable (though the concept watches from its annual Power Design Project are always intriguing but never commercially available). In contrast, the Star Time philosophical and impractical, with a simple yet complex display. Though the display is straightforward, the engineering behind the module that underpins the five discs is more complex than it might seem given...

Photo Report: Pitti Uomo Summer 2026 Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Jul 2, 2026

Photo Report: Pitti Uomo Summer 2026

Pitti Uomo, Florence's biannual fashion week and perhaps the world's foremost gathering of stylish men, arrived this year amid an epic heatwave. Thousands of designers, buyers, and guests made the pilgrimage anyway—sleeves rolled, shorts short, shirts linen. Hodinkee was there to document what they were wearing on their wrists. Rolex Sea-Dweller. A few trends worth noting: the "vacation watch" has arrived as a legitimate category. Quirky, colorful, and valued less for their specs than for the memories attached to them. Panerais, meanwhile, are making a quiet resurgence in their home city. Steel Rolexes and Omegas remain ubiquitous, as they have been for the past two years. But the men of Pitti Uomo are increasingly hunting smaller, more obscure, and frankly more interesting pieces. A vintage Jaeger wristwatch was the highlight for me personally. Enjoy! Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116520.  Vintage Piaget. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds. Panerai Luminor Power Reserve Automatic. Noah x Timex Lighthouse Watch. Rolex Bubbleback. Emilie Hawtin, founder of women's tailoring brand Clementina, with her Rolex Lady Datejust. Swatch Gent. Rolex Explorer. Baltic Tricompax Tour Auto. Longines Spirit Zulu Time. Rolex Explorer II ref. 16570. Benrus Type II. Darte x Praesidus X-1. A Longines Heritage 1945 that was inspired by a watch that Ben Clymer used to own. Q Timex Vintage Hodinkee Limited Edition. Emporio Armani Sinfonia. Cartier Santos. Cartier Tank Mus...

Introducing: The Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve In Light Blue Hodinkee
Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Jul 2, 2026

Introducing: The Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve In Light Blue

What We Know Today, Longines follows up its 2024 release of the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve with a new colorway, adding a light blue opaline dial to the mix. Yes, this one's just a new dial color, but it offers a completely different feel from the three previous models in the very conservative shades of cream, grey, and black. The Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve serves as an homage to a 1959 model from the brand with the same kind of power reserve indication, but you can bet that they weren't doing light blue in this watch back in the day. The hue on the front is a refreshing change, but the styling on the dial otherwise remains the same, with a sector dial framing the unique power reserve indicator right in the center. What makes it interesting is that the power reserve isn't just displayed by a rotating pointer, but rather by a dance between the two discs of the power-reserve hours track and the inner pointer.  This means that, depending on how you've wound the watch, the positioning of the pointer from full to empty may not always be the same on the dial. This certainly makes for a less intuitive setup, though in all fairness, this piece of information is probably secondary compared to the time and date, for things you'd need at a glance. A date window sits at twelve o'clock, nicely framed in an appliqué, and is accompanied by applied hour markers throughout. The case is well-proportioned for a wide range of wrist sizes, although rather tall for a ...

Introducing the Temporal Works Series A “Rambler” Worn & Wound
Jul 1, 2026

Introducing the Temporal Works Series A “Rambler”

Temporal Works, the brand brought to you by Armoury founder Mark Cho and the Armoury’s creative director Elliot Hammer, is only about six months removed from their first release at the end of last year. Today, they’ve unveiled the next watch in their Series A collection, dubbed the Rambler. It’s a slight tweak on the simple idea that defined the Series A in the first place. According to Cho, he thought of that watch as something that should be as straightforward and effortlessly elegant as a well tailored navy blazer. If that first batch of Series A watches could be thought of as trading in a somewhat elevated level of refinement, the new Series A Rambler takes a similar approach but with a more rugged perspective.  The new Rambler takes a more tool watch forward approach than its predecessor in a few key ways. First, the case has been finished with a bead blasting process and forgoes the polishing of the original Series A, making it immediately more of a casual, toned down piece. Matte dials in “Black Sesame” and “Red Bean” feel both classic and kind of earthy, with handset designs borrowed from historic pilot watches. It’s a tasteful, sector dial with the brand’s logo appearing at the 4:00 position, and no additional text to speak of. Straps are also appropriately casual, with the black dial pairing with an olive canvas strap, and the red dial one in gray Alcantara.  The Series A Rambler is sized at 37mm in diameter and 45mm from lug to lug. It’s 10...