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Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)

3,593 articles · 26 videos found · page 20 of 121

When Accuracy Mattered - Part III: The Triumph of Brands Over Watchmaking SJX Watches
Longines split-seconds chronograph pocket watch Sep 20, 2020

When Accuracy Mattered - Part III: The Triumph of Brands Over Watchmaking

The demise of chronometry competitions last year – when the final edition of Concours International de Chronométrie took place – finally killed the dangerous heresy that a watch is a practical instrument that should be trusted to show the correct time. With the elimination of the last scientific and independent assessment of a watch’s worth, the cult of haute horlogerie comes into its own, reinforcing its definition of a watch as an emotional product born of passion, tradition and prestige. Trials to see who can produce the most precise, accurate and reliable watch originated in Geneva in 1879, when the head of its observatory, Professor Emile Plantamour, devised a testing routine that rated watches in the various positions and temperatures encountered in everyday wear. Observatories soon became the influencers of the pocket-watch age, determining the legitimacy and worth of luxury timepieces. American magnates like James Ward Packard, Henry Graves Jr and Pierpont Morgan secured the most highly rated pieces. A Longines split-seconds chronograph pocket watch that was tested at the Neuchatel Observatory in 1968; this particular example once belong to Jean Pitallier, the former president of the French Cycling Federation (FFC) Despite the advent of wristwatches, the Neuchatel Observatory kept the competitions alive until 1968 when Japanese entrants swept the board. In 1972, deputation of Swiss watch brand executive petitioned the Neuchâtel government minister Ren...

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Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary SJX Watches
Cartier Santos or Ebel – Sep 14, 2020

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary

Originally just a model name for the bestselling watch of the brand MDM (short for Montre des Montres), Hublot got off the ground with one of the “it” watches of the 1980s that a first in combining yellow gold with a rubber strap. The brand is now 40 years old and a global success thanks to a late-in-life rejuvenation. To commemorate the occasion – which chief executive Ricardo Guadalupe hinted at in January – the brand has unveiled the sleek and simple Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary modelled on the original Hublot wristwatch of 1980. Minimalist in style, the anniversary watch sticks to the restrained look of the maritime-inspired original – hublot is French for “porthole” – but is substantially larger to cater to modern tastes. And like the original it is available in 18k yellow gold – combining the precious metal and rubber was a novelty in 1980 – but also in titanium or black ceramic. The 1980 model in steel (left) and the anniversary edition Initial thoughts While modern-day Hublot watches are often maximalist and sometimes over the top, the anniversary Classic Fusion is the opposite, a look that works well with the case and bezel. The 1980 original was a compact, pared-back watch that was at odds with the fashionable watches of the era – think two-tone Cartier Santos or Ebel – and proof that less is more. The dial of the remake sticks closely to the original, with a white-on-black date that is a welcome improvement. But the addition of ...

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VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGP005 offers classic looks and stone cold killer accuracy of +/- 10 seconds a year Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGP005 offers classic looks Aug 26, 2020

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGP005 offers classic looks and stone cold killer accuracy of +/- 10 seconds a year

As a distillation of what a Japanese firm does best, the Grand Seiko SBGP005 offers a compelling line of thought – if you’re looking for a great watch on the more affordable side of things, do you pursue the usual mechanical suspects or high-end quartz? With a case based on the iconic 44GS design, an … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGP005 offers classic looks and stone cold killer accuracy of +/- 10 seconds a year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Swatch Introduces the Big Bold Jelly Neon SJX Watches
Swatch Jun 15, 2020

Swatch Introduces the Big Bold Jelly Neon

Only just introduced earlier in the year, the Big Bold Jelly is a modern, majorly-upsized take on the Jelly Fish (ref. GZ010) of 1983 that had visible innards, just like the eponymous marine species. Now the jellyfish gets a dose of colour with the Big Bold Jelly Neon. Essentially the same watch as the clear Big Bold Jelly, it is dressed up in bright, neon colours – orange, yellow, green or blue – for a more edgy and lively look. Initial thoughts Swatch watches are popular for their eccentric, recognisable designs – and were wildly popular 30 years ago in their heyday – and the Big Bold Jelly Neon is no different. The watch is indeed big and bold. The translucent plastic case is 47 mm – matched with a translucent strap – and reveals the gears of the quartz movement on the clear dial. And it has the crown at two o’clock, which is pretty unconventional. The particular combination of whimsical quirks rarely exists in other watches, which makes the Big Bold case immediately distinct from afar. The Big Bold Jelly Neon is also the boldest and most vibrant variant of the model to date, thanks to the punctuating accents of colour on the face, which even extend to the lugs and the buckle. They are welcome additions to the “jellyfish” aesthetic, making the watch even more striking than the previous Big Bold Jelly and encapsulate the essence of Swatch – fun, cheerful and eye catching. And the colours also make the watch a good choice for the trendy who are into...

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Recommended Watching: The Macaluso Collection of “Golden Age” Rally Cars SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux GP May 8, 2020

Recommended Watching: The Macaluso Collection of “Golden Age” Rally Cars

A legendary figure in the watch industry of the 1990s and early 2000s, Luigi “Gino” Macaluso was the owner of Sowind Group, the holding company for Girard-Perregaux (GP) and Daniel Jean Richard. Having started as the Italian distributor for several watch brands, he acquired GP in 1989 and turned it into one of the watchmaking stars of the next two decades, particularly with its haute horlogerie offerings and Ferrari timepieces. But he was long a racing driver at heart, having won several trophies as a driver for the Fiat Abarth team in the 1970s, including the 1972 European Rally Championship. Even as successful entrepreneur Macaluso continued his involvement in motor racing, including as Italy’s representative to the FIA World Council starting in 2005. The Ferrari F40 of the Macaluso collection. Photo – Fondazione Gino Macaluso Macaluso channelled part of the fortune he made in watchmaking into building a car collection, with a focus on rally cars, including prize-winning examples of the Lancia 037, Lancia LC1, and Fiat X1/9. Now the collection has become Fondazione Gino Macaluso per l’Auto Storica (which translates as “Gino Macaluso Foundation for Historic Cars”), located near Macaluso’s hometown of Turin. Last year, Goodwood Road & Racing, the magazine affiliated with the classic car race of the same name, was taken through the collection highlights by Gino’s son, Stefano Macaluso, who was once a designer at Girard-Perregaux. Like his father, Ste...

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Cartier Introduces the Pasha de Cartier SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Apr 24, 2020

Cartier Introduces the Pasha de Cartier

As it does every couple of years, or decades, Cartier reintroduces one of its iconic wristwatches, this time the Pasha de Cartier. Launched in 1985 and a big hit in the decade after, the Pasha was Cartier’s original round-case bestseller, long before the Ballon Bleu. Three decades on, the new Pasha makes its debut once again at Watches & Wonders 2020 as a full-fledged collection with models for both men and women, from time-only to skeleton tourbillon, as well as diamond-set versions. Variants of the new Pasha 41 mm for men Mysterious origins Despite having a round case – Cartier is most famous for its shaped watches like the Tank and Santos – the Pasha is amongst the most historically-important Cartier timepieces, apparently. Legend has it that Cartier first created a water-resistant watch in 1934 for the fabulously wealthy Pasha of Marrakesh, Thami El Glaoui, who wanted a watch he could wear while swimming. The result was one of the first-ever luxury-sports watches. While the Parisian jeweller no doubt made a watch to fulfil the Pasha’s request, it was most likely a rectangular Tank Etanche, rather than anything resembling today’s Pasha watch. Inspired by that tale, the modern-day Pasha was born in 1985, penned by the hand of Gerald Genta, the prolific designer whose heyday in the 1970s and 1980s saw him create a string of hits, ranging from the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak to the Bulgari Bulgari. Genta’s creations were often avant-garde in their day, and his...

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Pandemic Truths - Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie. SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Apr 17, 2020

Pandemic Truths - Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie.

A time of crisis is always a good moment to reflect – especially when confined to the home – so we spoke with key personalities in watchmaking to see what they’re doing. As the pandemic-inflected reality faced by major brands and independents are necessarily different, here are the views from one of the big “small” brands, H. Moser & Cie. Its young and straight-forward chief executive, Edouard Meylan, answers our questions, in part one of Pandemic Truths. Like almost everyone at the moment, Edouard is working from home, which is just a few minutes away from the H. Moser & Cie. factory in Schaffhausen. Edouard’s work-from-home desk. Photo – Edouard Meylan How does this crisis impacted your business, in productions, distribution, or people? Obviously, this crisis has a global impact as it creates uncertainty in both supply and demand. How can I produce watches when my suppliers are closed and I want to make sure my employees are safe? And even if I were able to produce, where do I sell when all my stores and distributors are closed? Today only four of my retailers are still open. But it is probably easier for us as we can easily ship directly to consumers. We have been very lucky to exhibit during the Dubai watch exhibitions [primarily LVMH Watch Week] early in January. We were able to introduce our novelties and get pre-orders. We are delivering them today, so business is almost as usual for the moment. We have launched our certified pre-owned platform last m...

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Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina Carbotech PAM 1661 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Feb 3, 2020

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina Carbotech PAM 1661

Three years ago, Panerai introduced the LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days PAM 700, an experimental watch boasting carbon-based innovations inside and out, including ceramic bridges and plates that do away with jewelled bearings as well as a dial coated in carbon nanotubes giving it an absolute black finish. But the LAB-ID was truly experimental, and word has it that only a handful were sold and the planned 50-piece run was never completed. But no doubt due to the popularity of the LAB-ID’s design – and unpopularity of the €50,000 price tag – Panerai has just announced the Luminor Marina Carbotech 44 mm (PAM01661). It’s essentially a smaller, simpler LAB-ID, featuring a case in the same material, as well as blue lume on the dial and hands, but with a straightforward automatic movement without any of the bells and whistles found in the LAB-ID. The Luminor Marina Carbotech 44 mm Depth rated to 300 m, the case is made of Carbotech, a carbon fibre-reinforced polymer produced by compressing thin sheets of carbon fibres at high pressure with a high-end polymer (PEEK), explaining the wave-like appearance of the material. The result is a material that is light and strong, explaining why the large, 44 mm case weighs just 96 grammes, less than half the same case in steel. The LAB-ID of 2017 The watch has a standard Panerai dial, but in the colours of the LAB-ID. Like most Panerai dials, it has a “sandwich” construction, where the hour markers are cut-outs that r...

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Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Dec 6, 2019

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure Review

Zenith introduced the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure as part of the unveiling for their 2019 Baselworld line up. The Chronograph was released alongside the Type 20 Extra Special Adventure which is the three-hand layout of the Pilot model.  Zenith does have a vibrant history with pilot models, which stretches back to the early 19th century. The Zenith Type 20 Montre d’Aéronef released around 1939 is a timepiece that closely resembles the current Pilot Type 20 editions. The iconic cathedral hands with the Gothic-font Arabic numerals and the large knurled bezel have all been carried over from the original Type 20 Montre d’Aéronef model. The pilot models only lasted up until 1960, where Zenith stopped production of their aviation watches bar one or two models so that the brand could more solely focus on racing chronographs.  In 2010 however, the brand came back to its aviation pedigree and once again started the manufacturing of pilots watches, which was when the modern Pilot Type 20 collection was born. It’s great to see a design of a watch remain unchanged for almost eight decades and shows how true to their history Zenith are.  Zenith has given the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure a more 21st century modern and urban look. Typically when thinking urban colours or colours of nature, one is drawn to the likes of green and brown. Zenith has utilized these colours extensively throughout the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure. The 45mm casing has been produce...

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic: Timing Is Getting Pretty Thin Quill & Pad
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Nov 17, 2019

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic: Timing Is Getting Pretty Thin

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is the recent winner of the Chronograph category at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and current world record holder for the thinnest mechanical chronograph. Joshua Munchow thinks that as such the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT deserves closer inspection to discover just how it achieved this feat while looking cool in the process.

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Breaking News: SIHH Will Now Become Watches & Wonders Geneva SJX Watches
Breitling also decided Oct 16, 2019

Breaking News: SIHH Will Now Become Watches & Wonders Geneva

From 2020 onwards, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) will be known as Watches & Wonders Geneva, adopting the name of an event that first started in Hong Kong before migrating to Miami in the wake of the slowdown in the Chinese territory. Last year’s shock announcement by industry giant Swatch Group that it would depart Baselworld permanently set up off chain of events: a botched response that led to the resignation of the chief executive of the fair’s organiser MCH Group, and then a full-year loss for MCH. Some prominent brands like Breitling also decided to leave Baselworld, though the giants, like LVMH and Rolex, have opted to stay. Since then Baselworld’s new management has announced a flurry of new initiatives and programmes, starting with Baselworld announcing it would unite with SIHH after a decade’s separation. It’s also revealed an unimpressive hotel deal and more recently, a concierge service for visitors. All of that seems to have compelled the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), the organiser of SIHH – a watch fair in healthy condition compared to Baselworld – to do something as well. And so they have, with the goal of making the event more consumer centric. Rebranded but pretty much unchanged Palexpo forever Despite the name change, the format of the event appears pretty much the same. The Salon with its 30 exhibiting brands will take place as it always has, at the Palexpo conventional hall beside Geneva airport, loca...

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New MIH Gaïa Series I Watch: Surprising In Its Use Of Brutalist Design Quill & Pad
Sep 21, 2019

New MIH Gaïa Series I Watch: Surprising In Its Use Of Brutalist Design

The Musée International d’Horlogerie announces a new MIH watch, called into existence to help finance ongoing museum projects as well as raise public awareness for safeguarding horological heritage and to promote the expertise of regional watchmakers. This surprising timepiece takes its direct inspiration from the museum building itself, a product of Brutalist architecture.

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HANDS-ON: 150 years of greatness, the Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges 40mm  Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon Nov 25, 2018

HANDS-ON: 150 years of greatness, the Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges 40mm 

The Triple Bridges holds a special place in the history of Girard-Perregaux, as does the tourbillon. In 1867, a watch with three bridges and one tourbillon won a prize for chronometry at Neuchâtel Observatory, and the distinctive design became a de facto logo for the brand. The striking design of the triple arrow-headed bridges is … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: 150 years of greatness, the Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges 40mm  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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LIST: The celebrity factor - 10 examples of the impact of provenance on price, from Newman to Trump Time+Tide
Apr 6, 2018

LIST: The celebrity factor - 10 examples of the impact of provenance on price, from Newman to Trump

The power of ‘celebrity’ is not a new concept. As far back as the ancient pharaohs, celebrities have been put on a pedestal (sometimes literally) and we’ve obsessed into the lives of the powerful, the wealthy and the beautiful. These days, technology puts the beautiful people at our fingertips, and this all-access, always-on, microscope into … ContinuedThe post LIST: The celebrity factor – 10 examples of the impact of provenance on price, from Newman to Trump appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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IN-DEPTH: The pure design of the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 29, 2016

IN-DEPTH: The pure design of the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin

Story in a second: The Saxonia Thin is A. Lange & Söhne design at its most pure. One of the things that makes everyone like A. Lange & Söhne as a brand (and I mean everyone, I can’t think of a single person I know who doesn’t like or respect what Lange does) is the … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The pure design of the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hautlence at the GTE in Geneva Revolution
Hautlence Feb 2, 2013

Hautlence at the GTE in Geneva

During the same week as the SIHH, the GenevaTimeExhibition, the show for the independents brands, was held in the centre of Geneva. Besides Hautlence, brands like Moser & Cie, Cabestan, Heritage and Speake-Marin were among the 34 exhibitors. The location was really cool and looked in fact, like an old former hydroelectric station. http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a65/Pasha_1950/GTEbuilding.jpg http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a65/Pasha_1950/InsideGTEbuiding.jpg […]

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(Hands-On) Should Glashütte Original’s SeaQ Panorama Date Be The Diver’s Favourite? WatchAdvice
Glashütte Original s SeaQ Panorama Date 7h ago

(Hands-On) Should Glashütte Original’s SeaQ Panorama Date Be The Diver’s Favourite?

Glashütte Original’s SeaQ is certainly a luxury dive watch, but how luxurious can a dive watch get? Let’s find out! What We Love: An extremely bold, tough build Incredible legibility Beautiful movement & open caseback What We Don’t: Mobile but hulking presence nonetheless Unidirectional bezel feels too tight Is there such thing as overkill? Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Of all the archetypes of German culture, perhaps none is as universally recognised as its knack for over-engineering. Everything from Mercedes-Benz to Mettbrötchen is carefully considered, measured and executed in a manner as precise as it is complex. It’s become so quintessentially German that it’s also an international stereotype, with the intricacies of the country’s industry worshipped just as readily as they are playfully mocked. One industry that constantly walks the line between precision and complexity is horology, where brands like Glashütte Original uphold the values of German watchmaking through their timepieces. Typically, this leans towards the artistic side of things, as seen in recent Senator releases like the Aventurine and Cherry Blossom models from the Atelierauftrag line. But that doesn’t mean Glashütte Original has forgotten its engineering identity – not by a long shot. Meet the Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date, the brand’s premier dive watch. A feature-laden, robust timepiece, you might be...

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Direnzo Introduces their First GMT, the DRZ 08 Cosmonaire Worn & Wound
10h ago

Direnzo Introduces their First GMT, the DRZ 08 Cosmonaire

As Direnzo heads toward their tenth anniversary next year, they’ve just introduced their very first GMT equipped watch, the DRZ 08 Cosmonaire. Inspired by the future oriented design of the Space Age, the Cosmonaire is, like virtually every GMT watch, conceived as a travel tool at heart, and through a variety of dial treatments really takes on different personalities depending on how it is executed. It’s filled with little details that are sure to be appreciated by enthusiasts as well, the type that might go unnoticed by the more casual observer.  Direnzo describes the case design of the Cosmonaire as having a “soft geometry,” which is highlighted by an elliptical bezel that is curved and thinner on the 3 and 9 o’clock sides than those at 12 and 6 o’clock. It gives the watch a subtly organic feel and aids in helping it achieve the desired flowing profile. It’s visually interesting and I think Direnzo deserves credit here for trying something genuinely different with a slightly higher degree of difficulty. According to the brand, they were going after a look that was reminiscent of industrial design in the 1960s and 1970s, and there’s definitely something about this watch that makes it feel like it would have been at home on the wrist of a NASA employee working Mission Control during that time period.  The dial is bowl shaped, which adds additional depth and visual complexity to the presentation, along with the applied hour markers and an engraved lume fill...

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Auctions: The 2026 Geneva Fall Auctions Mega-Preview, Part 1 - Christie's and Antiquorum Hodinkee
F.P. Journe 14h ago

Auctions: The 2026 Geneva Fall Auctions Mega-Preview, Part 1 - Christie's and Antiquorum

It’s time to dig in for the fall auction season, and with over 1225 lots, I must admit I've delayed this out of sheer overwhelming anxiety about the amount of work to do. Also, aside from a small preview of watches held by Phillips in New York a few weeks back, I haven’t had time to handle these watches, which increasingly leaves me unnerved as prices rise and audiences become more educated. It allows folks to pick out details you just can’t notice when looking at hundreds of watches but can find if you look at one or two watches closely, which I don’t have the luxury of. Caveat emptor, as always, but I’ll be going to some previews in Geneva next week, and I will update if I notice anything. In case you missed it, Ben covered some things he noticed for these same auctions, which led to me crossing out some things I was going to cover (since he beat me to it) and to send him a bit of a lamenting text saying that he blew up my spot on a few things I was going to bid on. All is fair in love and coverage. I’m sure I might blow up some readers. Them’s the breaks. So let’s get into what caught my eye. Christie’s - November 9, 2026 We’re going to start where the market has put its attention: F.P. Journe. The elephant in the room is the brand headquartered a 15-minute walk from the Christie’s auction room in Geneva at Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, across the Rhône, and into the Old Town. The demand for Journe is not of the brand’s making, and it has cert...

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Touchscreen Macbook, A New Porsche Collab, and Zenith’s Uncertain Future Worn & Wound
Zenith s Uncertain Future Porsche 2 days ago

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Touchscreen Macbook, A New Porsche Collab, and Zenith’s Uncertain Future

Porsche x La Marzocco 911 Carrera RS 2.7 Collection It’s well established that I’m not a car guy. And it’s also well established that I have the palate of my Midwestern forebears, meaning gas station coffee is just fine by me, thank you very much. But when it comes to design, I’m a bit of a snob, looking to both Porsche and La Marzocco as the pinnacles of who I’d want to be, had life and a trust fund turned out differently for me. Put those two together and – mein Gott – all I can say is mamma mia. The two brands are teaming up for a second time, this time taking inspiration from the Porsche 911 Carrera RS 2.7. The centerpiece is a limited-edition version of La Marzocco’s Linea Micra espresso machine, available in historic Porsche color combinations including Grand Prix White and Green and Tangerine and Black. Carrera RS lettering, the historic Porsche logo and a cup rail shaped after the car’s famous ducktail spoiler carry the reference through the machine. There’s also a matching Pico grinder, along with a smaller collection of coffee accessories and apparel in the same RS 2.7 colors. The collection is available now through Porsche’s online store with prices ranging from $59 to, ahem, $7, 911. Major Changes Could Be Coming to Zenith Not very often in this little space of mine do I get to write about hard-hitting watch industry news, but a report from Revolution caught my eye this week. According to reporting cited by Revolution from Le Temps and Bus...

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