21,358 articles · 5,708 videos found · page 20 of 903
Fratello
Watch fans worldwide were excited when Favre Leuba’s return was announced in August last year. The world’s second-oldest watch brand is a favorite among vintage collectors and has created some absolute classics. Upon the unveiling of the new collection, we quickly learned that Favre Leuba would honor the past with modern versions of these watches. […] Visit Taking A Look At The Current Favre Leuba Catalog to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Our friend, colleague, and founder of Vortic Watch Co, RT Custer, needs our support. After a sudden medical emergency earlier this summer, RT and his family face a long road to recovery. As a result, there is significant uncertainty around the future of Vortic Watch Co and its sister brand Colorado Watch Co, not to mention the physical, mental, and financial hardship that comes with any major medical event. We’re here to help spread the word of RT’s situation and urge the watch community to support his recovery. CLICK HERE TO DONATE TO RT’S GOFUNDME CAMPAIGN Earlier this summer, RT suffered a massive stroke while traveling for work in Detroit. Very fortunately, RT was taken within minutes to a Level 1 trauma center, where he received clot-busting medication and underwent emergency surgery to remove a clot blocking over 90% of his right cerebral artery. He spent 10 days hospitalized, then 10 days in rehabilitation relearning to walk and manage daily tasks. Doctors expect a full recovery, but neurological healing will take time-roughly 12 months before considering a return to work and 2–3 years before resuming the full demands of running a company. RT’s wife, Lindsay, has stepped in to run business operations for both companies. In addition to being a great guy, RT has been an essential part of the watch community since Vortic was founded in 2013. He’s pioneered contemporary American manufacturing and has played a key role in keeping the long history of America...
Deployant
Casio releases its first ever mechanical watch - the EDIFICE EFK-100, available in a forged carbon case or steel case with 4 dial variants.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer's most recognisable watch has had a fascinating history, but which examples of it rank as the best?The post The iconic (TAG) Heuer Monaco and 7 of its best limited edition references appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Watch collecting is filled with stories of love at first sight, which I guess makes sense considering the hobby revolves around looking at watches. Stare at enough stranger’s wrists, browse enough boutiques and partake in enough endless scrolling sessions, and it’s only a matter of time before cupid’s horological arrow strikes. If your watch consumption habits are as excessive as mine, you’ll likely be struck on a regular basis. Knowing when to embrace these moments through distant appreciation and when to splurge by breaking out the credit card is a balancing act that comes down to personal finances and individualized collecting goals. Have stacks of cash and enjoy rotating through dozens of watches? Sounds like a green light to hit that buy button whenever your heart desires. Writing monthly checks for your kid’s extra curricular activities that are high enough to make even your inflated grocery expenses blush? We have plenty of room for you in the strapped for cash parents club, where we maintain concise collections that prioritize frill free practicality over opulence. As a proud member and self-designated ambassador of the latter group, I’ve set a limit of $300 for individual purchases. Yes, it sounds low, and compared with most of the collectors that are likely to appear in your Instagram feed, it is. But armed with patience and a penchant for bargain hunting, it’s really not all that limiting and has allowed me to embrace love at first sight with two B...
Video
The Vaer D5 Pacific Anacapa is the everyday diver you didn’t know you needed. Inspired by California’s Channel Islands, it packs 20ATM water resistance, a Miyota 9015 automatic movement, and a striking multi-layer...
Worn & Wound
Happy Saturday! Dive watch summer continues – we’ve noticed some fun new divers, all limited editions, come across the transom lately. New water ready releases from Doxa, Wren, and Doxa are profiled below. We’re also spotlight the latest from Ming – while not a diver, it has a stealthiness to it that feels appropriate for the season. Let us know in the comments what you think of these new releases, and what we might have missed. Wren Diver 38 Wren is back with their second watch, the all new Diver 38. The brand, founded by Wrist Enthusiast’s Craig Karger, launched last year with the Diver One, and the new piece is a scaled down, and perhaps more refined take on the original concept. The new version of the watch is smaller, coming in at, you guessed it, 38mm, and is just 10.7mm tall (the original was 41mm in diameter and over 13mm thick). The dial has a sandwich style design, in either a gradient seafoam green or aqua colorway. According to Karger, the goal here was to move Wren into a new category that “balances practicality, comfort, and refined execution.” The Wren Diver 38 is available in date and no-date versions for $1,595. It runs on a ETA 2892 automatic caliber, and has 200 meters of water resistance. It’s mounted to a flat-link, stainless steel bracelet, and the ceramic bezel insert is fully lumed. Another nice touch: the rotor is skeletonized in the shape of a wren. More information on the Wren Diver 38 can be found on the Wren website here. Mi...
Monochrome
It’s been several years since the Swiss abandoned the truly affordable, sub-400-euro mechanical watch category. Once a gateway to Swiss mechanical watchmaking at reasonable prices, lower-end Swatch Group brands (Tissot and Hamilton) are now priced above that range. This situation, however, has been extremely beneficial to two Japanese giants, a sort of duopoly composed of […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Among the many questions a novice watch enthusiast is faced with, “Mechanical vs. Automatic Movement?” is one of the most basic, yet one whose answer is a bit more complex than a simple A-or-B explanation. In fact, “mechanical or automatic” isn’t even really framing the choice correctly. In the article below, we attempt to clarify the subject and answer the most pressing questions about these tiny engines inside your watch. What is a Mechanical Movement? A mechanical movement, like the Nomos DUW caliber below, uses a coiled metal spring, called a mainspring, that releases energy as it uncoils through a series of gears to drive a weighted, oscillating wheel called a balance wheel. The balance wheel’s oscillations are linked to an escapement, which periodically releases the gear train to move the hands forward to record the passing of hours, minutes, and seconds. In short, a mechanical movement in a watch is any type of movement that uses no batteries or electronic components to function - which makes them different from more modern inventions, like quartz, Spring Drive, and solar movements. Technical developments over the centuries are what led to the two types of mechanical movements we’re discussing here. Originally, the movement’s mainspring needed to be wound periodically by hand - first by a key, then by a small knob called a crown that was attached via a stem to the movement. Later, a type of movement was developed that could be wound “automatica...
Worn & Wound
American watchmaking is having a moment. And if there’s any day that’s worth celebrating, it’s the Fourth of July. Happy birthday, America, hope you like Damaskeening! Just in the last month or so, we’ve seen a new release from J.N. Shapiro that could point to an entirely new and more accessible concept for the brand. Cornell Watch Co. revealed their new Lozier, with a case, dial, crown, and handset machined in the United States. Colorado Watch Company, the Fort Collins, CO based brand making cases and dials in-house with movements assembled in the United States, just shipped their first batches of new watches to customers after extensive prototyping. And Keaton Myrick, who makes watches completely by hand in vanishingly small runs in Oregon and somehow has flown under the worldwide watch community’s radar for years, just saw a fantastic result in a public sale via Phillips that went for just over the high estimate. And it’s not just that there’s a lot of activity. The watches mentioned above are all, actually, very very good, and show that American watchmakers and brands can succeed in multiple ways, using different models. Myrick and Shapiro operate at the very highest end of the spectrum, while Colorado Watch Company has the ethos of a microbrand (the project was funded via Kickstarter, just like their sister brand, Vortic). The Cornell model, though, is probably the most interesting to me. The majority of the watch is manufactured in the United States, bu...
Monochrome
Some watches immediately grab your attention and interest, while some never seem to catch your eye. Others might be a bait-and-switch: you love it at first, but when you get your hands on it, the love affair is short-lived. I’ve had it happen with a Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical a while back. Loved it when […]
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Fratello
You will remember a Ball watch once you encounter one. The brand’s distinct style immediately stands out from the large crowd of watches available these days. Several of Ball’s watches have tritium micro-gas tubes that light up in the dark. This unique form of lume has led to an instantly recognizable numeral style that defines […] Visit Hands-On With The Surprising Ball Roadmaster M Model A to read the full article.
Hodinkee
With accuracy not measured in days, weeks, or months, the brand has achieved a spring-drive movement measured at ±20 seconds per year – the best for any watch powered by a mainspring.
Fratello
In 2018, Krayon, the brand founded by independent watchmaker Rémi Maillat, won the Innovation Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) with its Everywhere watch. Four years later, Krayon bagged another GPHG award. That time, the complicated Anywhere won first prize in the Calendar and Astronomy category. With the new Krayon Anyday, a […] Visit Introducing A New Way Of Looking At The Date: The Krayon Anyday Is The World’s First Mechanical Agenda Watch to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Phillips Perpetual will shortly open a three-day exhibition dedicated to independent watchmaking at its London showroom. Independent Spirit will comprise five notable watchmakers whose work encapsulate the diversity of the genre: Konstantin Chaykin, Raúl Pagès, Theo Auffret, Charles Frodsham, and David Candaux. The watch boutique arm of the eponymous auctioneer, Phillips Perpetual conceived the exhibition as a small-scale event that will allow personal interaction with each of the watchmakers, or in the case of the long-departed Charles Frodsham, the brand’s representatives. The exhibition will be a rare opportunity to meet some of the leading lights of independent watchmaking. Amongst them is Raúl Pagès, a true artisanal watchmaker in the traditional sense. Mr Pages will have on hand examples of the Soberly Onyx, his inaugural watch, and the RP1 Régulateur à détente that won him the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize. Raúl Pagès While all of the other watchmakers at the exhibition are relatively young, Charles Frodsham is a continuously-operating, centuries-old brand – proof that independent watchmaking innovation can come from unexpected places. The movement of the Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer The only watchmaker absent is Konstantin Chaykin, who unfortunately was not able to travel for the exhibition due to travel restrictions resulting from his nationality. That’s unfortunately as the Russian watch- and clockmaker is a technician and artist whom I ...
SJX Watches
A mechanical watch is not always spot on; less-than-perfect timekeeping can happen, often due to an unruly oscillator. The solution is direct adjustments to the hairspring and balance assembly, either slowing down or speeding up the oscillator, a practice known as regulation. Watchmakers have devised multiple innovations to achieve this, including the free-sprung balance, exemplified by the Gyromax of Patek Philippe and Microstella of Rolex. While a simple concept in principle, the mechanics and practice of regulation are nuanced. Here we’ll delve into the theory of regulation and the primary regulating systems: the curb-pin regulator and the free-sprung (or variable inertia) balance. The Lange L043.4 with a screwed balance inspired by pocket watches Basic concepts In order to better understand watch regulation, we need to first cover some of the basic physics behind the watch oscillator: The component responsible for the running rate of a movement is its regulating organ. The regulating organ is made up of a hairspring paired to a balance, which together are also known as a harmonic oscillator. The natural oscillation period is the time it takes the balance to make a full swing, back and forth. The period is made up of two vibrations, one for each direction of the balance motion, with the escapement being unlocked at each vibration. Notably, the natural period of a balance wheel is intrinsic to itself and does not depend on the escapement type or the going train ratio. ...
Video
Stay up to date with the biggest watch news from March, including major releases, updates, and industry commentary. In this video, we break down the most important developments from brands like Longines, OMEGA, NOMOS,...
Quill & Pad
In theory, a mechanical watch is very simple: it's 'simply' a spring (the mainspring) unwinding at a constant rate with hands attached to gears that rotate as the spring unwinds. Easy! Ian Skellern highly recommends anyone at all interested in mechanical watches to watch this video as it clearly highlights how a mechanical watch works.
Monochrome
Most watch enthusiasts probably know Vulcain for the so-called President watch, the alarm-equipped Cricket. Undoubtedly, the most important watch ever created by the brand born in 1858, there’s thankfully (for us collectors and the brand’s health) more than that in the brand’s historical and modern portfolio. Back in the 1960s, Vulcain had its fair share […]
SJX Watches
Having acquired Tiffany & Co. in 2020, LVMH set about remaking the storied American jeweller. That extended to Tiffany’s watch division, which now debuts the first flagship creation under new ownership, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon. Led since 2021 by Nicolas Beau, the former chief of Chanel watches, Tiffany’s watch division turned to independent watchmaker Artime for the movement of the new tourbillon. Set with some 4 carats of diamonds, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon features an off-centre dial layout with a flying tourbillon at seven o’clock, along with a turquoise marquetry dial bearing a pair of diamond-set birds in flight. Initial thoughts One of Tiffany’s best-known jewellery designs, the Bird on the Rock has been a fixture in the brand’s catalogue for decades. A horological twist on the concept, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon is clearly part of an effort to position the design as a versatile icon that is Tiffany’s equivalent of the Serpenti. It’s a little bigger and thicker than the traditional ladies’ watch, though reminiscent of the MB&F; LM Flying T. The reason for the size is the AFT24T01 movement inside, which is more interesting than usual as it was developed for Tiffany & Co. by Artime, a recently established independent brand. The AFT24T01 has a high quality execution with appealing details, but it’s related to Artime’s own calibre for a men’s skeleton tourbillon, explaining its large size. As an opening effort, the Bird on a Flying...
Worn & Wound
I’m a pandemic-era watch enthusiast. Stuck inside along with the rest of the world, I found myself with an unusual amount of time on my hands in the spring of 2020. My interest in watches had been passing at best, reflected in my recent purchase of a quartz Citizen dress watch that, looking back, was likely the most generic version of a bland 3 handed watch available on the entire internet. It was this office-inspired watch (which I was not even allowed to wear to the now-shuttered office) that probably led YouTube’s algorithm to throw a watch review into the mix as it attempted to entertain me for hours on end. Imagine my surprise when my former coworker and Worn and Wound’s own Zach Kazan was on my screen, talking about the water resistance and case diameter of a Seiko. And just like that, I stumbled into an engaged group of local collectors that were more than happy to get a newbie like me up to speed. Sure, it felt like the world was on fire, but at least I had a new hobby and community to distract me as it burned. Stories similar to mine were playing out all over the world as a new wave of enthusiasts used an influx of time (and sometimes money) to give themselves self-curated crash courses in horology. For those of this cohort that still spend their free time reading watch blogs, it’s been a wild ride. We witnessed (and perhaps fueled) the rise of hype culture, the skyrocketing of prices, the divisive power of a plastic Speedmaster and the advent of not one...
SJX Watches
Having covered independent watchmaking and metiers d’art highlights at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, we now look at timepieces that aren’t wristwatches. The Hong Kong sale is a two-part affair: a theme sale focused on timepieces of Japanese origin christened Toki, and the The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX. Both include a notable number of pocket watches and clocks across the spectrum of style and periods, from an iconic Cartier Model A mystery clock in rock crystal to the Richard Mille RM020 pocket watch. The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX. TOKI lot 60 – Breguet digital jumping hours pocket watch This uncommon Breguet pocket watch with a two-tone case was sold in 1926 to a certain Mitoui T.K. for the sum on 16,000 French francs. This was a period when Breguet was making few timepieces, making watches from this era, especially complicated ones, relatively uncommon. With elegantly angled cutouts for the hour and minutes, the jumping hour display makes this watch a rarity. Similarly displays were found on wrist- and pocket watches of the time, including the Cartier Tank à Guichet. This particular piece does not bear the classic Breguet style, like the coin-edged case band or engine-turned dial. The style, however, is typical of the 1920s, though the two-tone case makes it unusual. This watch was made in France, since this was produced well before the brand’s move to the Swiss Vallée de Joux in the 1970s. The white-and-pink-gold 45 mm c...
Video
Fratello
We watch collectors come up with “rules” regarding our hobby. For example, “Every watch collection should have a dress watch, a sporty piece, and a beater.” This is the imperative many of us live by. While the former two may not be the cornerstones of my collection, at least not intentionally, I do have a […] Visit An Ode To The Casio G-Shock GW-B5600-2ER to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Next year, Bulova turns 150 years old, but you’ll forgive them if they start the celebration a little early. Last week in New York City, the band’s home for its entire history, Bulova hosted the world premiere of America Telling Time, a documentary about an hour in length that charts the course of the brand through 150 years of being, quite literally, an American standard in time telling. Watching the film in a room full of watch collectors, watch media, and Bulova staffers it became clear that Bulova is truly unlike any other watch brand, and not for the usual reasons we typically invoke that possibly overused phrase. Bulova’s history is tied inextricably to American history in a way that no other brand can replicate, which is a simple fact of its founding, longevity, and ability to always be on the cusp of trends in culture and watchmaking. Before sitting down to watch the film at the premiere, I had an opportunity to speak with Jeffrey Cohen, President of Citizen Watch America, and Patty Schmoyer, Vice President of Marketing at Bulova, about what we could expect later that evening when the documentary would be shown. “You’re going to see how Bulova played a vital role in our society,” Cohen told me. He then went on to list the seemingly endless arenas in which Bulova was a factor in American life. The space program, being a pioneer in radio and television advertising, and promoting equal pay for equal work at a time when a large American company taking a s...
Worn & Wound
The post How to Choose Your First Mechanical Watch appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
For more than 140 years, Alpina has made a name for itself as a premier watch brand for sportsmen and adventurers alike. Now under the Citizen Watch family, the Swiss brand continues to bring to market exciting watches that often punch way above their weight class. Take, for example, the latest release by the brand: the Alpiner Extreme Skeleton. Coming in two references, depending on the strap chosen, these watches mark an interesting advent for the brand: marrying sports watch performance with a skeletonized dial in one. Every millimeter of this Alpiner iteration has been consciously redesigned for both aesthetics and performance. It’s hard to talk about this watch without mentioning the namesake skeleton architecture of the watch. Of course, the lack of a proper dial gives us a peek into the inner workings of the movement; it’s the small finishes throughout the watch that make it truly impressive. Take, for instance, the finishing on the movement that alternates between satin and polished surfaces. Or the hour markers applied by hand to the crystal, giving them a floating appearance against a dialless backdrop. Or the luminescent hands which tie it all together and remind one that this is, first and foremost, a sports watch. It’s all packed into a compact and wearable 39mm x 40.55 mm cushion case. Noted earlier, this watch comes in two references. The first (AL-520GSKT3AE6B) is a monochromatic gray variant that’s inspired by the Alpine foothills. This reference...
Monochrome
If I asked you to name things that are 1.65mm in height, or less, would you immediately think of a watch? More likely you’d be thinking of credit cards, coins maybe, or even a sheet of cardboard. But a mechanical watch? Surely that can’t be done at such a slim height… Well, it can be […]
Video
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