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Results for Pilot Watch

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Pilot Watch

The aviation tool-watch genre. Cartier Santos (1904), the WWII B-Uhr, the French Type 20 flyback, the RAF Mark XI, the Breitling Navitimer.

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History of the Cartier Santos: the first pilot watch, and arguably the first proper wristwatch

Louis Cartier built it in 1904 for his aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, who was fed up fumbling for his pocket watch mid-flight. 121 years later the square case with exposed screws is still the sharpest dress-sports piece on the shelf. Here is how it got there.

HANDS-ON: The Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chronograph delivers looks, utility and value Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Mechanical May 2, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chronograph delivers looks, utility and value

Since the beginning of recorded time, man has sought to escape the bounds of earth’s pull for the freedom of the skies above. From the dawn of the 20th century, when man first affixed wings to engine for that brief-yet-monumental flight on the beach in Kitty Hawk, it seemed there was nothing left holding us … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chronograph delivers looks, utility and value appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHES & WONDERS: TAG Heuer follow up LVMH Watch Week with a whole lot more Time+Tide
TAG Heuer follow up LVMH Watch Mar 30, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS: TAG Heuer follow up LVMH Watch Week with a whole lot more

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: TAG Heuer follow up LVMH Watch Week with a whole lot more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen Remakes Lost-at-Sea Diver’s Watch SJX Watches
Citizen Remakes Lost-at-Sea Diver’s Watch Mar 22, 2022

Citizen Remakes Lost-at-Sea Diver’s Watch

One of Citizen’s earlier dive watches, the Challenge Diver of 1977 is rated to 150 m – but it evidently can withstand more than pressure under water. In 1983, a long-submerged example was discovered at Long Reef Beach in Sydney, Australia. And despite being encrusted with barnacles, it was in working condition according to Citizen. Now Citizen revisits the Challenge Diver – and memorialises the barnacle-covered watch – with the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m “Fujitsubo”. The new watch retains the retro design and dimensions but has been thoroughly upgraded with modern materials and mechanics, including a titanium case and movement resistant to magnetic fields of up to 16,000 A/m (or about 200 Gauss). Initial thoughts While the new launch is headlined by an interesting story, the watch itself is appealing, especially for its slim proportions and affordability. At 41 mm wide and 12.3 mm tall, the Fujitsubo is one of the thinnest dive watches in this price segment. In fact, it’s even thinner than the vintage original. And it’s also slimmer than its most obvious rival, the Seiko 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretations “62MAS”, which is about 1 mm taller. And it will also be lightweight. As is convention for most of Citizen’s mid-range dive watches, the case is Super Titanium, the brand’s proprietary alloy that has undergone surface hardening, leaving it five times more scratch resistant than steel. Visually, the Fujitsubo is simple and almost gene...

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (Perhaps) By The Hand Of The Horological God, I’m Jaded No Longer - Reprise Quill & Pad
Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No Feb 20, 2022

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (Perhaps) By The Hand Of The Horological God, I’m Jaded No Longer - Reprise

This Breguet souscription pocket watch number 1836 was created just after the French Revolution in 1796 and was sold in 1807 for £600. A testament to the quality of the movement’s design and the skill of its watchmaker, after more than 200 years it still runs impeccably today, which makes it the perfect role model for Breguet's modern Tradition line. But what relationship does Ian have to it?

INTRODUCING: The Longines Legend Diver Watch adds new gradient dials to its repertoire Time+Tide
Longines Legend Diver Watch adds Feb 15, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Longines Legend Diver Watch adds new gradient dials to its repertoire

The Longines Legend Diver collection, since its inception in 2007, has presented a strong example of heritage revivals done right. Longines, a trendsetter in this regard, has always done a great job of digging into their rich archives to take beloved designs of the brand and reinterpret them with fresh and flavourful notes that speak … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Legend Diver Watch adds new gradient dials to its repertoire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why I bought a vintage Seiko pocket watch Time+Tide
Seiko pocket watch Feb 8, 2022

Why I bought a vintage Seiko pocket watch

This 1974 Seiko pocket watch ref 6602-9010, stands apart from all my other timepieces. Today the convenience of a hands-free wristwatch has seen pocket watches mostly relegated to collectors, Victorian enthusiasts, Steampunk fans or people who want engraved presentation items. Pocket watches are still available new today, from low-end pieces to mid-range Seiko (eg SWPQ002 and … ContinuedThe post Why I bought a vintage Seiko pocket watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A chicken-wristed man’s search for a watch strap with the perfect fit Time+Tide
Tissot field watch … ContinuedThe Dec 15, 2021

A chicken-wristed man’s search for a watch strap with the perfect fit

There’s a scene in the Alfred Hitchcock film, Rear Window, where the main character L.B. Jefferies (a gruff photojournalist played by James “Jimmy” Stewart) looks down at his watch to note the time – as he investigates what he suspects is the murder of his neighbour by her husband. It’s a small Tissot field watch … ContinuedThe post A chicken-wristed man’s search for a watch strap with the perfect fit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Franck Muller x Bamford Watch Department Snoopy inspired Crazy Hours Time+Tide
Franck Muller x Bamford Watch Department Dec 11, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Franck Muller x Bamford Watch Department Snoopy inspired Crazy Hours

“Yesterday I was a dog. Today I’m a dog. Tomorrow I’ll probably still be a dog. Sigh! There’s so little hope for advancement.” These words were uttered by Snoopy, the iconic but ultimately fictional dog who’s a product of cartoonist Charles Schulz’s wonderful imagination. But little did the wisest of wise canines know what would be … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Franck Muller x Bamford Watch Department Snoopy inspired Crazy Hours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: A Pair of Highly Important Pocket Watches SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch Nov 4, 2021

Auction Watch: A Pair of Highly Important Pocket Watches

Geneva auction week this year includes Only Watch, perhaps the headline event, but also a slew of other auctions. Over at Phillips, the majority of its Geneva watch auction catalogue comprises wristwatches, but two standouts in the sale are pocket watches, one from an independent watchmaker and the other from an establishment brand. Different as they are, the two are are indeed an epic pair. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV takes place on November 5 and 7, 2021. Lot 183 – Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch Ref. 768 There are a few reasons the Patek Philippe ref. 768 is intriguing, even though they might not be obvious at a glance. For one, the ref. 798 is truly rare – Patek Philippe has only made a handful of grande sonnerie pocket watches in its history. It incorporates the most challenging complication to execute, the grande et petite sonnerie, which means the watch chimes the time as it passes. And it is a carillon, with three gongs instead of two, so that the quarter is sounded with three notes instead of the typical two. Then there’s the fact that it’s a mid-20th century Patek Philippe, a guarantee of the  fine horological quality. The movement was made in 1898, but only cased up more than half a century later in 1953, and subsequently sold close to a decade after that. This example is interesting because it has a single-lidded back that sports an extra-large, relief-engraved Calatrava cross on a frosted base. According to Phillips the oversized logo ...

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021” SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch Nov 4, 2021

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021”

Inspired by German “rolling eye” clocks of the mid 20th century, the Joker is now Konstantin Chaykin’s trademark wristwatch. But the Russian watchmaker’s repertoire is far more diverse than the googly-eyed face – watches that tell the time on Mars are another of his specialties. For Only Watch 2021, Mr Chaykin has combined the two concepts in the Martian Tourbillon. The robotic clown face indicates the time and calendar on Mars, while the back reveals a one-minute tourbillon that makes one revolution every Martian minute. Initial thoughts The Joker Selfie Mr Chaykin created for Only Watch 2019 was not merely a simple variation of the standard model, illustrating both Mr Chaykin’s creativity and his desire to put together something genuinely special for the event. With most watches at Only Watch 2019 being variations of existing models, the Joker Selfie was notable for being unique in a technical sense. The watch had a built-from-scratch complication, a new base movement, and even a novel case material (which is being used once again for this year’s creation). The case is Bulat, a high-carbon, patterned steel alloy Once again Mr Chaykin has put together a truly one-off watch for the biennial charity auction. It is impressive and ingenious, with a Martian complication that’s synonymous with Mr Chaykin. Despite all its novelty, it is easily recognisable as a Chaykin wristwatch. Like its predecessor, the Martian Tourbillon has a unique complication, albeit o...

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco Nov 1, 2021

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco

A homage to famed Monaco “Dark Lord”, the TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco is unique for utilising carbon, or more specifically carbon composites, in almost every aspect of the watch – dial, case, and even the hairspring is carbon. Plus it has a specially finished movement that’s visible through the an extra-wide sapphire case back. Initial thoughts The vintage “Dark Lord” is all-black version of the Monaco that’s one of the most desirable of vintage Heuers. It was something of an experimental creation with only a few dozen were made, or perhaps even a hundred depending on the source. One of the first all-black watches, the “Dark Lord” had a powder-coated case like many early black-coated watches. Consequently, the “Dark Lord” case was fragile and few have survived in pristine condition, explaining its rarity and value, as well as why it’s the inspiration for the Carbon Monaco. A vintage “Dark Lord” ref. 740.303N The pleasing black, orange, and cream palette of the Carbon Monaco instantly evoke the “Dark Lord”. And at a distance, the Carbon Monaco even has something of a vintage flavour. But up close it is evidently a modern watch in both style and substance. Unlike the “Dark Lord”, the Carbon Monaco is fabricated from a material that’s naturally black, or at least a dark grey. The carbon composite case has an indelible finish, while also being extremely lightweight. The modern material, along with the geometrically open-worked ...

De Bethune Dream Watch 5 Maestri’Art Cempasúchil: Celebrating Mexico, Art, And The Dearly Departed - Reprise Quill & Pad
De Bethune Dream Watch 5 Maestri’Art Oct 31, 2021

De Bethune Dream Watch 5 Maestri’Art Cempasúchil: Celebrating Mexico, Art, And The Dearly Departed - Reprise

De Bethune's Dream Watch 5 is more a beautifully sculptured piece of jewelry than a wristwatch, and its organic shape looks fantastic from every angle. The latest Dream Watch 5 Maestri’Art Cempasúchil honors and celebrates Mexico's Day of the Dead with a colorful, exquisitely engraved case that is also a metallurgic wonder. Horological art doesn't get better than this!

Quick Take: Longines Legend Diver Watch in Gradient Blue and Brown SJX Watches
Longines Legend Diver Watch Oct 15, 2021

Quick Take: Longines Legend Diver Watch in Gradient Blue and Brown

Introduced in 2007 as Longines’ first remake of a vintage sports watch, the original Legend Diver was one of the earliest entries into the vintage-reissue segment. And it was a faithful recreation that managed to channel the look and feel of the vintage-original ref. 7042, though Longines subsequently added a date display to the model. In recent years, however, Longines begun to inject contemporary style into its remakes, including the Legend Diver, with last year’s 42 mm model in bronze with a striking, green fumé dial being a prime example. This year saw a continuation of the trend with a pair of new dials – in either blue or brown with a smoked finish – for the full-sized Legend Diver Watch in steel. Initial thoughts My first impression of the duo was simple: they are appealing in both design and colour. The design is clearly vintage; the remake stays true to the original. Its best feature is the inner rotating bezel adjusted via a second crown, which immediately sets it apart from typical dive watches that usually have a bulky external bezel. But important is the colour, which unlike the design it is a modern addition. Though fashionable today, gradient or dégradé dials are were actually a thing in the 1970s, though never found on the vintage original. The smoked dials lends the watch a youthful and contemporary feel. The blue is the most striking, though I personally prefer the warm and nostalgic brown dial that evokes a “tropical” dial. While t...

Interview: Marie-Laure Cérède, Cartier’s Watch Design Chief SJX Watches
Cartier s Watch Design Chief Oct 1, 2021

Interview: Marie-Laure Cérède, Cartier’s Watch Design Chief

Cartier has enjoyed industry-beating growth since current chief executive Cyrille Vigneron took over in 2016, with demand for both its watches and jewellery rising at a steady clip. One of the individuals behind the success of Cartier’s watch division is Marie-Laure Cérède. Having started her career at Cartier, she spent a dozen years at Harry Winston, before returning to the French jeweller in October 2016 as the Deputy Creative Director of Watchmaking. And in May 2017 she was elevated to the top job in design, making her ultimately responsible for the aesthetic of Cartier’s watchmaking. One of the first redesigns during Ms Cerede’s leadership was the Santos, which has evolved from the Santos launched in 1978 (far left), to the Santos 100 of the 2000s (centre), and finally the present model Her tenure has been marked by a steady stream of hits, ranging from collector favourites like the Tank Cintree to the trendy Tank Must. In that time, Cartier has reimagined most of its trademark watch lines, including the Santos and more recently, the Pasha. I spoke with Ms Cérède earlier this year to uncover the secret behind her successful rejuvenation of Cartier’s diverse line-up. Also present during the interview was Anne Charrier, the public relations-strategy manager for jewellery, watches, and accessories. The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Cartier has a strong collection this year, both for men and women. And for a few years now, you have had stro...

You Can’t Ask That: Developing the real estate of an Audemars Piguet watch Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet watch Sep 23, 2021

You Can’t Ask That: Developing the real estate of an Audemars Piguet watch

This is the fifth video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. Why is it called, You Can’t Ask That? These are questions and topics that don’t commonly get addressed in the interviews with either Lucas Raggi, the Research and … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: Developing the real estate of an Audemars Piguet watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.