4,954 articles · 19 videos found · page 20 of 166
Fratello
Names of Swiss watch brands and models can be tricky to pronounce, especially the French ones. Does the name Jay-Jay Le Coot ring a bell? I will let you figure it out and bring up another name. It’s now an official name, but it stems from the trouble some had in pronouncing the original. In […] Visit Hands-On: The New Louis Vuitton Monterey In Green And Black Ceramic to read the full article.
Fratello
Last month, Orient launched the new Flusso, an integrated-bracelet sports watch inspired by the brand’s historic Super King (“SK”) models. The watch combines vintage influences with a contemporary design language, signaling a fresh direction for the Japanese manufacturer. I covered the launch when it was announced, but shortly after that article went live, the watch […] Visit Getting Some Hands-On Time With The New Orient Flusso to read the full article.
Monochrome
Earth, the Moon, Mars, and a spacecraft… Sounds like Christopher Nolan is cooking up another mind-bending film, but it is actually the new Bell & Ross BR-03 Space Mission. Following the BR-03 Astro from 2025, this new edition has a dial that takes the concept of space-time rather literally. The watch has no conventional hands. […]
WatchAdvice
The poetic world of Le Petit Prince meets the understated elegance of IWC’s compact Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34! What We Love: Beautiful integration of the Le Petit Prince for the first time in a Portofino model. Poetic day-and-night display Slim, elegant, and exceptionally comfortable What We Don’t: 34mm sizing limits its broader appeal No view of the movement Limited choice of suitable alternative straps Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 8.8/10 Wearability: 8.7/10 Design: 8.7/10 Build Quality: 8.8/10 IWC Schaffhausen’s Portofino collection is one that can seem overlooked at times. With collections such as the Portugieser, Ingenieur and Pilot’s Watches taking centre stage more often, the Portofino can feel like a line that frequently flies under the radar. For me personally, however, it remains one of IWC’s best-kept secrets. View this post on Instagram A post shared by IWC Schaffhausen (@iwcwatches) Unveiled during Watches & Wonders 2026 is the first-ever Portofino to feature IWC’s Le Petit Prince theme! The Portofino collection also has a distinctive design within IWC’s broader range, allowing it to stand entirely on its own. How this design originated is a story in itself, as the Portofino emerged during a period when the world of mechanical watchmaking was going through considerable turmoil. By the early 1980s, quartz watches were dominating the market, forcing IWC to explore different ideas that would make its mechanical timepieces appe...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Rolex Submariner vs Seiko Marinemaster: Our hands-on experience reveals the differences in craftsmanship, comfort, movement performance, and everyday wear.
Fratello
Contrary to what many watch enthusiasts think, a watch’s design usually starts with the caliber, not the case or the dial. Most of the time, the movement is the limiting factor that a creative team needs to build a design around. But there are multiple ways of solving the puzzle. One involves creating a different […] Visit Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C1 Loco Classic Continues The Loco Series In Style to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo returns to Carlo Crocco’s original 1980 design, when Hublot was the name of a watch made by MDM Genève. The Tributo’s 38 mm gold case restores the original 12-screw bezel, while a Zenith-derived automatic replaces quartz beneath an austere black dial. The yellow gold variant sticks close to the original design, while its white gold sibling pairs a black onyx dial with blackened bezel screws for a high-contrast monochromatic look. Initial thoughts While today Hublot is almost synonymous with the Big Bang and other large, sometimes extravagant watches, the brand’s origin as a single model made by MDM Genève is rooted in Italian elegance. The original quartz-powered model from 1980 was the first watch to pair a precious metal case with a rubber strap, a then-unheard-of configuration that was nonetheless perfectly suited to la dolce vita in the Italian sun. The Classic Fusion Tributo honours founder Carlo Crocco’s original design, complete with 12 bezel screws and a low-profile feel on the wrist, while being sized up to contemporary standards and equipped with a competent automatic movement courtesy of sister brand Zenith. The white gold version’s onyx dial, an upgrade relative to both the original and the black lacquer of the 2023 remake, is another difference that taps into the ongoing stone dial trend. But it does so in a low-key way that makes sense for the design and doesn’t feel faddish. Curiously, the yellow gold version s...
Fratello
This is not the first time you’ve read about cônillons. Do you still remember what a cônillon is? Let me jog your memory. It is a tilted tourbillon regulator with a tilted balance that follows a conical path rather than a conventional flat plane. It’s not a new concept. The American watchmaker Andrew Holden Potter […] Visit Hands-On With Two Cônillons: Trying Out The ArtyA Complexity Métiers d’Art to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
If you were around the micro/indie watch world in 2021, you almost certainly remember the release of the first Ming collaboration with Massena LAB. It was a limited edition that sold out incredibly fast (as most Ming releases did in those early days) and was notable for a few things beyond what I think is still an objectively cool design. First, this release came at the height of pandemic drop culture, and the quick sell through angered many Instagram commenters and there was a memorable backlash toward both brands (though I recall Ming taking the brunt of it). You could even argue that this release marked a sort of inflection point, and we began to see brands (including Ming) take steps with future releases to be more fair minded about how pieces are allocated. Second, when these watches eventually did make it to owners, there were a handful of notable and widely reported QC/mechanical issues (which of course were resolved by the brands, but still, not the cherry-on-top anyone was hoping for). Was the launch a catastrophe? Not really. Examples of these watches still routinely sell for well over retail on the secondary market. They’re one of a handful of releases from this era that really mark a specific moment in time. Ming and Massena are back with a second collaboration, at a time when both brands find themselves in a very different sort of situation. Which is just to say, there’s been a lot of growth in these last several years. When was the last time, for instan...
SJX Watches
The MB&F; LM1 EVO brings back the original Legacy Machine (LM) in a smaller, sportier case, with improved shock protection, water resistance and a revised movement. Fifteen years after the LM1 established the LM collection, the EVO preserves its distinctive dual-time layout and suspended balance while making it more suited to the demands of daily wear. Initial thoughts I still remember seeing the LM1 for the first time when it launched in 2011. Up to that point, MB&F; had spent six years developing its identity around the futuristic Horological Machine (HM) collection, and the brand’s original take on traditional watchmaking came as a surprise. The LM1 established what is now the Legacy Machine collection, which began as a thought experiment about what kind of watch founder Max Büsser might have designed had he been born a century earlier. The original LM becomes the fifth MB&F; platform to get the EVO treatment, after the LM Split Escapement, LM 101, LM Perpetual, and LM Sequential (in both regular and flyback configurations). It follows the same script as its predecessors, with a polished titanium (or 18k rose gold) case, proprietary rubber strap, and the brand’s patented FlexRing shock absorber, which helps take the edge off severe impacts. The EVO case is also water resistant to 80 m thanks in part to twin screw-down crowns. Of course, it’s a manually wound movement, which means the threads will se a lot of action assuming the watch is worn regularly. Fortunately, ...
Hodinkee
Earlier this year, we covered the announcement of a novel idea from the minds at Vacheron Constantin and the Phillips auction house: an open call looking for the best vintage Vacheron Constantin watches in the world for display, appreciation, and eventually the potential to be crowned the best in its category. It was a Concours D'Élégance like any held for cars, except this time for Vacheron timepieces. The underlying raison d'être was not just to show the best of vintage Vacheron but also to show support and appreciation to the collectors who have carried the passion for the brand (and maybe to draw some watches out of hiding). A platinum ref. 6448 from 1962 with JMV RA 13-ligne ultra-thin hand-wound movement (left) and a ref. 30030 from 2006. The jury (all fourteen members) reviewed 550 entries from vintage collectors worldwide. Now we know the 34 finalists in the seven categories (chronographs, Métiers d'Art, Chronomètre Royal, astronomical complications, multiple complications, design, and chiming mechanisms), and there are some truly phenomenal pieces, including some that I did not know existed. And for those in Geneva during the lead-up to GPHG and the fall auction season, you can see the watches on display from November 4th to 8th before the winners in each category—plus a potential "Best in Show"—are announced at a ceremony on November 10th. The legendary retrograde full date and 'Don Pancho' minute repeater from 1940, with a replacement dial faithful to...
WatchAdvice
Glashütte Original have finally expanded their Senator Chronograph line, but are they exactly what enthusiasts ordered? Let’s find out! What We Love: Clean, distinctive aesthetics Surprisingly wearable Impeccable movement What We Don’t: Issues screwing down the crown Flyback oscillates a lot when activated Can a dress watch dress down? Overall Rating: 9.5/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 As I mentioned during my visit to the Glashütte Original manufacture last year, the watchmaking town of Glashütte is a remarkably small place. This serves as a double-edged sword. On one hand, you’re able to take a comprehensive and condensed look at the defining history and characteristics of German horological craftsmanship. On the other, it’s all too easy for brands to be overshadowed by their next-door neighbours, even when they’re among the best in the region. Such has been the case for Glashütte Original. While I won’t get into the Ship of Theseus philosophical riddle underpinning the tug-of-war between them and their neighbour, A. Lange & Söhne, the Swatch Group marque has often found itself overlooked, somewhat unfairly so. In recent years, though, the narrative has changed. Drawing on its vastly accumulated and inherited knowledge, Glashütte Original has defined itself as a brand that stands apart from its competitors, in Germany and beyond. With fine craftsmanship, Saxon design and a surprisingly thoughtful p...
Monochrome
Breguet’s maritime pedigree dates to 1815, when Louis XVIII appointed Abraham-Louis Breguet as watchmaker to the French Royal Navy. Although Breguet did not invent the marine chronometer (that was John Harrison), he improved its robustness and precision, enabling sailors to calculate longitude at sea more accurately. It wasn’t until 1990, though, that the brand tapped […]
Monochrome
Picture a steel Rolex Submariner, sold in the summer of 1968 by a family jeweller in a small European town. The salesperson writes the shop’s name and the date on the papers, slips the receipt into the box, and hands it over. In 1985, a watchmaker replaces the worn bezel during a service and notes […]
Worn & Wound
Beams x REI Co-op Expedition Parka My husband and I were debating what to call my personal style over the weekend and, unfortunately, neither of us had anything positive to say. The best we could come up with was “Chandler from Friends with a maxed-out credit card.” Part of the reason is that I’m not adventurous. Even my “nice” clothes look like something from the Gap that my mom bought me before my sophomore year. I have, in short, no courage to branch out of the ’90s, I guess you could say. But maybe that’s not a total loss. I just need to take my sartorial time machine back to 1986. That’s when REI first released its Expedition Parka, and BEAMS has brought the style back for a new collaboration, limited to 500 pieces. The new version keeps the oversized shape and bright color blocking of the original, while updating the construction with a two-layer Windstopper by GORE-TEX Labs shell and 650-fill down. The BEAMS x REI Co-op Expedition Parka is available now for $599. KOUE’s Royal Smith 90-006 Large, New York Limited Edition Who’s getting excited about Windup next week? And who’s even more excited now knowing that KUOE Kyoto is bringing a 50-piece limited edition to New York? The Royal Smith 90-006 Large, New York Limited Edition pairs the waffle dial from the 90-006 with the Dauphine-style hands from the discontinued 90-005, along with a cream dial, silver case and brown leather strap made in Italy. The case comes in at 39mm, while inside is the...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage U.S.Steel Lord Elgin Presentation Watch Here’s a cool piece to start us off this week, a vintage Lord Elgin U.S. Steel presentation watch. As one might expect, the case is steel, and looks to be unpolished with crisp edges and nice lugs. The caseback is engraved as a presentation to Gilbert Yager for 41 years of service to USS, dated February 1959. 41 years, that’s impressive! I hope Gibert got a little more than a watch though for that long! Anyways, the silver dial is clean, with applied steel hour markers and a nice subseconds dial at 6. There is a USS logo printed on the dial. No movement pictures but the watch runs per the seller. Fun piece with a cool history! View auction here Vintage Tissot Seastar Chronograph Next up is a sharp looking vintage Tissot Seastar chronograph. The 35mm steel case is unpolished with the original vertical brushed finish and sharp edges. Behind the scratched up acrylic crystal is a nice looking black dial with three white subdials. The dial looks to be in great shape, with applied steel baton markers and steel paddle hands. The large crown is signed with the Tissot “T” logo as it should be. The watch is powered by what looks to be a L...
Hodinkee
Welcome to Friday, Baller. We're in busy times, what with the weather changing, and, at least in the States, we're enjoying an embarrassment of riches movie-wise, with a new Sorkin movie just having opened and two incredible new movies—The Only Living Pickpocket In New York and You Can See Everything premiering next Friday. I, for one, am already stocking up on popcorn. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Lucien Piccard Telephone and the Mappin and Webb watches remain available, while the Omega Admiralty and JLC Master Mariner have both sold. Strays I don't know if "understated bling" is a thing or not, but if such a category exists, it is absolutely where this Piaget Protocole in white gold from Rare Birds belongs. If Seiko's announcement of its newest panda chronograph whetted your appetite, here's an awfully great vintage Wittnauer two-register chronograph on auction from Loupe This, which, no, isn't as cute and lacks ears for pushers, but is still a great watch. Should you, after reading more down below about Abercrombie & Fitch watches, find yourself in the market for a vintage alarm watch from the brand, look no further. Photo courtesy of Rarebirds. Vintage lesser-known great-looking diver? Absolutely. Interesting vintage Rolex Prince? Why not. On the one hand, I've never seen any LeCoultre chronograph configured like this one. On the other hand: everything appears correct—signed dial and movement, appropriate wear, etc.—so who knows. Finally, for those who wan...
WatchAdvice
I take the new Raymond Weil Millésime Jubilee hands-on to see how the bi-compax anniversary edition compares with the existing Tri-Compax Chronograph! What We Love: Bi-compax layout gives the signature Millésime sector dial more room to shine The model retains the exceptional wearability of the Millésime chronographs Carries defining traits of “The Fifty” into a more accessible format What We Don’t: No date display for those who may prefer the added practicality No steel bracelet option! 12.9mm thickness may be substantial for those who prefer slimmer chronograph proportions. Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.8/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Raymond Weil, like many other watchmakers, went through some turbulent times during the COVID-19 era. However, as is often the case, periods of adversity can inspire some of the most creative and important work. This was certainly the case with Raymond Weil, as it was during this period that the Millésime collection was born. While the collection was introduced in 2023, its development and design began a few years earlier. The brand wanted to create a new expression of its watchmaking identity, bringing together its history with accessible contemporary watchmaking. The word “Millésime” literally translates to “vintage” or “vintage year” in French, directly reflecting the collection’s inspiration from watches produced between the 1930s and 1960s. View this post on Instagram A pos...
Worn & Wound
As a watch enthusiast, one should be a movement enthusiast too, right? Sure, everyone loves a handmade, ornately finished, über-high-end independent movement labored over for hundreds of hours, but I’m talking about something more industrial. The movements for the masses, so to speak. If you’ve been into this hobby for even a short time, you’ve likely seen models featuring movements from ETA, Sellita, La Joux-Perret, Soprod, Miyota, Seiko, and maybe a couple of others. Well, there is another whose name you might have bumped into here and there, poised to become a much larger player: Manufacture AMT (Advanced Mechanical Technology). Manufacture AMT was founded in 2018 and is owned by Sellita, though it operates as a separate company. This is, admittedly, somewhat confusing, as they clearly share IP, as shown in the movements. Regardless, AMT largely does white-label development for brands and offers only a small, nonpublic catalog to third parties. The AMT5000 chronograph, used by Hanhart, Oak & Oscar, Furlan Marri, and a few others for several years, is a good example of what AMT is all about. Based on the SW500 but improved in many ways, AMT5000 variants feature column wheels and flyback functionality as standard features across automatic and manual configurations with different subdial layouts. We all love a hand-finished movement, but what about the ones that power most of our watches? As a confessed movement enthusiast, I reached out to learn more about AMT’s ...
Worn & Wound
Earlier this year, I got a whole new appreciation for the Nomos Metro after sitting down with its creator, Mark Braun. The collection first came into the Nomos catalog back in 2014 and debuted the brand’s proprietary swing escapement system, which was developed over seven years with the Fraunhofer Institute and TU Dresden. Form was equally important to function in the original design, featuring a galvanized and silver-plated dial with a soft white color punctuated by black, red, and green markings in an arrangement that subtly played with asymmetry. Over the past 12 years, the Metro has gone on to take many other forms – some ditching the asymmetry by removing the power reserve indicator and shifting the Nomos logo to 12 o’clock and others ditching the white dial for full color alongside versions in rose gold as well as special editions for select markets. Today, we get the next evolution with the Metro Date Power Reserve Ice Blue. True to the collection’s DNA, this new incarnation offers new details both aesthetic and technical, including a brand-new mechanical caliber.With the latest addition to the Metro lineup, we see Nomos continue to use this collection as a launch point for new technical advancements. It marks the first model in the Nomos catalog to house the new hand-wound caliber DUW 4701, which offers a patented quick-set date and a power reserve of up to 52 hours. This entirely new movement continues the story of mechanical innovation that began with the...
SJX Watches
New York-based Wren has introduced the Vessel, an integrated-bracelet sports watch with an unusually elaborate sapphire crystal. Designed by Max Resnick under founder Craig Karger’s direction, its futuristic case and crystal mark Wren’s first departure from the dive watch format and help establish a broader identity for the brand. Initial thoughts The name Wren is a portmanteau of Wrist Enthusiast, the online watch publication founded by Mr Karger. The brand’s first watch, the Diver One, was introduced in 2024, and Wren has stuck to dive watches ever since. The Vessel, however, is anything but a diver. By venturing far beyond its initial design language, Wren has carved out considerable space in which to develop its identity. In doing so, Wren has taken a page out of the Berneron playbook with a sophomore effort that is almost as different from its debut as it could be. Perhaps because the look is so different, the Vessel features an aqua blue seconds hand and winding rotor to match the dial colour of the original Diver One. The Vessel’s design was penned by British designer Max Resnick under Mr Karger’s creative direction. Originally trained in automotive design, Mr Resnick has worked with several other small brands, including Anoma and VPC. The vision called for an integrated-bracelet sports watch that avoided channelling the same handful of historical designs from the 1970s. The resulting look has more in common with Alto than Audemars Piguet. The angular desi...
SJX Watches
The Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue adds a dark blue ceramic case to the brand’s 500 m dive watch collection. It’s a more casual take on the Supermarine, with a restrained colour and carefully finished case that give the Sellita-powered diver a more stylish, less tactical character. Initial thoughts Sometimes it’s surprising how much difference a colour can make. In the case of the Bremont Supermarine, the navy blue hue of the ceramic case and bezel results in a look that is quite different from that of its black ceramic stablemates. The deep blue colour is very subtle, and to my eye looks less plasticky than some brighter blue ceramic competitors. The prominent texture of the brushing on the case gives it vaguely a metallic appearance, and it at a glance it could almost pass for PVD-coated steel. While ceramic is not a perfect material and can crack under extreme torsion or if dropped onto a sufficiently hard surface, the real-world benefits outweigh these edge cases. The natural scratch-resistance of ceramic pays dividends when changing straps, for example, as the spring bars cannot scratch the inside of the lugs when finding their seat. There’s also an ancillary benefit to ceramic, which is that service watchmakers will not be tempted to try to polish it. The Supermarine’s strengths lie in its finely executed dial and relatively slim case. The wave-inspired dial pattern is dramatic without being overpowering, while the 13 mm thickness and flat case ...
Hodinkee
It's not often that a microbrand makes a complete pivot in design language. In fact, I'd argue that it's rarely advisable. Once you've built an audience around your existing design codes, introducing a product with virtually zero overlap with what your customers already love is a massive gamble. But NYC-based microbrand Wren, created by Craig Karger of Wrist Enthusiast, has taken that risk today with a completely new design called the Wren Vessel. Last year, I spent some time with the Wren Diver 38 models, which stuck to the brand's singular design language centered around vintage dive watches. Not the most groundbreaking concept in the microbrand space, even if the watches are impressively specced for the price point. But I think it's quite interesting to see that the brand's ambitions are much higher than what it's currently offering, and today's new watch marks the next step for Wren. For this new watch, the brand teams up with designer Max Resnick, a watch designer with a background in automotive design who's done work for other microbrands like VPC, Traska, and Anoma. The final result feels quite original, despite the high-level concept of a modern, integrated sports watch being explored by many brands in many other ways. Wren logo aside, the Vessel shares almost no similarities with the rest of the brand's designs. The Vessel brings a new, integrated(ish) bracelet design that feels almost retrofuturistic in its silhouette, with a generally tonneau shape but executed ...
SJX Watches
The Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater returns with a transparent red mineral crystal dial and an updated movement, 12 years after the original introduced chiming complications to the brand. Combining a wearable case with a clear view of the striking racks, it makes a convincing addition to the more mechanically focused side of the collection. Initial thoughts After 12 years of minute repeaters and musical wristwatches, it’s easy to take Jacob & Co.’s presence in the category for granted. Working closely with external specialists, the brand has developed an impressive portfolio of striking watches in a remarkably short time. That repertoire encompasses the decimal repeater of the Twin Turbo Furious, the three-gong carillon of the Astronomia Maestro, and the combination of a music box and minute repeater in the Opera Godfather. These different approaches to sound illustrate the breadth of the brand’s ambitions and its relationships with specialist movement makers. We recently sat down with Jacob & Co. chief executive Benjamin Arabov to discuss how smaller watches like the Palatial have helped broaden the brand’s clientele. Mr Arabov admitted that he is affectionately known by some of his staff as the “size dictator”, due to his insistence on reducing dimensions while retaining the mechanical creativity. While the brand still makes a number of extremely large watches, the increase in smaller, more wearable options has attracted a new clientele...
Fratello
One of the most common complaints in the watch community concerns current pricing. Indeed, the COVID-19 period affected the prices of luxury items. Meet Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte GmbH, or DUG, which claims to bring the traditional craftsmanship of Glashütte watchmaking without charging the traditional high prices. This is a bold claim, so let’s find out […] Visit Hands-On With The DUG Purist Typ 1 And Typ 2 to read the full article.
Fratello
What is rarer, a shooting star or two Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph 2026 Limited Editions? That’s an easy question, right? Well, I hate to break it to you, but maybe not. Shooting stars or meteors aren’t rare at all; roughly 25 million visible meteors enter Earth’s atmosphere every day. Unfortunately, artificial lights obscure […] Visit Back In Black: Hands-On With Two New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph 2026 Limited Editions to read the full article.
SJX Watches
This month Singapore will play host to A. Lange & Söhne’s Challenging Chronographs, a pop-up exhibition exploring Lange’s iconic chronograph movements and the brand’s perennial presence at the automotive world’s most elite “concours” competitions. Taking place at ION Orchard, the exhibition will take visitors through the history of the Datograph collection, from the landmark 1999 original to the Double Split and Triple Split. The event also focusses on Lange’s role as an official partner of the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este on Lake Como, and related events at Hampton Court Palace and Audrain Newport, events that bestow the most coveted awards in the world of vintage automobiles. The Triple Split in platinum A master watchmaker and a master engraver from Glashütte will be on hand throughout the event to provide insight into the assembly of the brand’s famed chronographs, and demonstrate the process of freehand engraving a balance cock, respectively. This unique 1815 Chronograph was awarded to the winner of the 2022 Concorso d’Eleganza at Villa d’Este Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid (left) with the best-in-show winner at the Concours of Elegance 2023 Open from 10:00 am-9:00 pm each day, guided tours and demonstrations are available by appointment, though limited slots will be available so early registration is encouraged. Challenging Chronographs will be hosted from October 18-30 at the ION Orchard, Level 1 Atrium at 2 Orchard Turn, Singapore 238801. Re...
Hodinkee
The fall auction season is already upon us. Or, I guess you could say, it's been here since the strong showing by Sotheby's in Hong Kong—though that technically ended right before the official start of fall. The Cartier Cheich in white gold (which traded hands among dealers and collectors for a few years at far less than that) sold for $3.4 million, setting a record as the most expensive Cartier and most expensive quartz watch ever sold. Weeks later, if you asked me what this means for the market, I'd probably stare at you blankly. Ben would probably do the same, as he's said on the site that it's just hard to make sense of prices both at retail and at auction anymore. Let's chat about that all first. What The Heck Is Going On With The Market? As we head into the bulk of the auctions, I currently feel far less confident telling you where prices will land. I think most prognosticators—myself included—would say that we have to be nearing the height of the bubble for F.P. Journe and A. Lange & Söhne. But then again, over breakfast the other day, a friend asked if I knew someone who'd want a very historically important watch from a more traditional brand that went underpriced nearly 10 years ago and now was available for double that—into the seven figures. Some things (like that very vague story, probably) make sense; some can leave you scratching your head. European Watch Co. has this Tourbillon Pour le Mérite listed for $1,100,000 right now. There was an interestin...
Hodinkee
It's funny the way a brand can sneak up on you. Maybe you hear the name on a podcast, and then, a few months later, you run into the brand at a watch fair, or on a friend's wrist. Still, despite repeated encounters, it's remarkable how a brand can continue to exist entirely outside your awareness. Until it doesn't. Until you somehow find a brand, or a watch, completely inescapable, unavoidable, inevitable. 18 months ago, I'm not sure I'd ever given an independent thought to Traska; today, that couldn't be further from the truth, and the brand's Chronograph (aptly named, the Chronograph) is the perfect example of why. If you don't yet know Traska, I don't blame you. Traska is just one of many small brands that have popped up over the last decade, and they've broadly followed a familiar formula: Kickstarter launch, followed by a slowly expanding stable of somewhat conservatively designed, three-handed sports and dive watches, all powered by reliable but unassuming Japanese movements, and all drawing a heavy dose of inspiration from well-known (but far less accessible) watch brands. So, if the broad strokes are familiar, where Traska has separated itself from the pack is in the details. For one thing, unlike so many other Kickstarter brands with similar stories who have come and gone with barely a whisper, Traska has stuck around and, each year, their watches have gotten better. I finally reached my tipping point with Traska last year, when I picked up a second-hand Venturer ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
We spent years with the Orient Star RK-AT0106E to see whether its premium finishing, open-heart dial, and build quality can really compete with Seiko.
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