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Pie Pan Dial Omega

Faceted multi-level dial designed by Pierre Vibert for the 1952 Omega Constellation; modern Globemaster reissue.
15 Best Sailing Watches in 2023, from Affordable to Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 20, 2023

15 Best Sailing Watches in 2023, from Affordable to Luxury

Unlike dive watches, most of which share many common technical and aesthetic elements geared toward their intended underwater use, sailing watches and yachting watches are harder to define. Sailing watches range from a simple three-hander with a nautical design influence, one to wear while chilling on the deck of a cruise ship or at the yacht club, to a tool-oriented timepiece geared toward competitive regatta racing, with countdown functions, tides indicators, and other utilitarian features. In this feature, just in time for the closing weeks of summer sailing season, we’ve rounded up some of our favorites in every style, listed from eminently affordable and functional to luxurious and exclusive.  Timex Intelligent Quartz Tides Watch Price: $136, Case Size: 45mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug Width: 16mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Timex Intelligent Quartz Caliber What mass-market Timex may lack in horological prestige, it makes up for in clever utility with its Intelligent Quartz Tide Temp Compass. What makes this watch’s quartz movement “smart?” Basically, it’s an open-ended tech platform that uses onboard sensors and microprocessors in the movement to drive individual functions on analog displays, providing an array of information from perpetual calendar to world clock to flyback chronograph to an array of nautical-navigation features, which include a tide tracker, compass, and thermometer. The compass incorporates an adjustable declina...

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UPDATE: The winner of the Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will also get a VIP trip to Japan – under one condition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will Jul 16, 2023

UPDATE: The winner of the Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will also get a VIP trip to Japan – under one condition

The notion of a nature-inspired watch is nothing new for Grand Seiko, it is certainly their M.O. But when the Grand Seiko SBGJ269 “Pink Flannel Flower” Limited Edition was released last year it was a huge deal for multiple reasons. Firstly, the SBGJ269 was the first-ever Australian limited edition from Grand Seiko. Secondly, the 50-piece … ContinuedThe post UPDATE: The winner of the Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will also get a VIP trip to Japan – under one condition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Breguet Bestows a Luxe Touch on the Marine Hora Mundi for Only Watch SJX Watches
Breguet Bestows Jul 14, 2023

Breguet Bestows a Luxe Touch on the Marine Hora Mundi for Only Watch

Breguet has unveiled a unique version of its world time wristwatch for Only Watch, the highly anticipated charity auction. The Marine Hora Mundi 5555 “Only Watch 2023” is dressed in striking, rich colours that are unusual for Breguet, bringing a new face to the jumping display, dual time sports watch with a dial that’s a twist on the traditional world map motif. The dial features a gilded globe that’s a representation of the lighted areas of the world at night. Initial thoughts Since its debut last year, the Marine Hora Mundi has remained a hidden gem. The watch boasts a clever jumping dual-time complication and it is also a luxury-sports watch, the most popular segment of watchmaking in recent years. While the production version of the Hora Mundi has a dial that feels relatively flat, the Only Watch edition is far more striking. The dial motif is a clever concept that has not been used before in watchmaking, where gilded accents are used to represent the world’s population. Moreover, the dial does away with the latitude and longitude lines found on the original, making the map and guilloche more prominent. Given the aesthetic appeal of this dial design, we hope that a similar design will be introduced for the regular production model following Only Watch. But for now, the charity auction will be the only chance to land this Hora Mundi. It carries an estimate of CHF70,000 to CHF80,000, a modest price estimate. It anticipated that this will be readily exceeded dur...

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Itay Noy Debuts the Seven-Day Cycle Collection, a New Series of Watches that Take Things a Week at a Time Worn & Wound
Jul 10, 2023

Itay Noy Debuts the Seven-Day Cycle Collection, a New Series of Watches that Take Things a Week at a Time

Itay Noy, the Israeli watchmaker known for creative and whimsical calendar complications that take a philosophical view to the concept of time, is back with his latest creation, the Seven-Day Cycle. Announced just days ago and officially launching later this week at the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago, the Seven-Day Cycle is inspired by the idea of looking at the passing of time on a weekly, as opposed to daily, scale.  The centerpiece of the collection is the “Rest Day” watch. Rather than focusing on a daily progression of time, the watch seeks to visualize a weekly cycle. The day is indicated via skeletonized text around the dial’s perimeter, but instead of the day of the week, Itay Noy has given the days numerical values (first day, second day, third day, and so forth). The seventh day (by default) is marked as the “rest day” at the 12:00 position. Itay Noy notes that different religious traditions observe different rest days, so the rest day on the dial can be customized to the owner’s preferences. Dials are available in blue or white for this reference. The Seven-Day Cycle watch is also available in versions that name the days of the week in a more traditional way. The format, though, is largely the same, with skeletonized apertures spelling out the days of the week that are highlighted day by day as the week progresses. The blue and white dials seen in this version of the watch have dividing lines that should aid a bit in legibility, but all watches in the ...

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[VIDEO] Review: The Black Bay 54 – A Black Bay to Rule them All? Worn & Wound
Tudor launched Jul 6, 2023

[VIDEO] Review: The Black Bay 54 – A Black Bay to Rule them All?

It’s amazing to look back to 2018 and see the utter excitement and disbelief I felt when Tudor launched the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, a sentiment that was shared by many. It seemed as though our hopes and prayers had been answered. Finally, a vintage-inspired dive watch with a great movement at a smaller size, by a brand with provenance. While that seems like daily news in 2023, a sub-40mm dive watch, at the time, from a major Swiss brand was still hard to come by. It was clear Tudor had a hit. And, as per usual, we expected they would capitalize on that hit. In the conclusion of my review from 2019, I say “…it’s likely they will expand greatly on the collection.” I was wrong, and this is where the story of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, and Tudor, takes a slightly different direction. Rather than doing what most brands do, including themselves with other models, they pumped the brakes. The rainbow of options never came, instead, there were a total of five variations broken down as two in steel, a silver model (still crazy), a solid gold, and a bronze boutique edition. Not what we expected. 37mm is just right Tudor then left the Black Bay Fifty-Eight behind for a while, coming out instead with a series of unexpected sports watches in new-ish platforms. The Pelagos FXD, while part of their larger tech diver line, featured a different case, modified dial and bezel designs, and a genuine military tie-in. The Black Bay Pro put their GMT and a date complication into a 39mm c...

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Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Neo Constant Escapement for Only Watch SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Jul 6, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Neo Constant Escapement for Only Watch

A regular participant at Only Watch, Girard-Perregaux’s latest contribution to the charity auction, the Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch 2023, revisits its innovation constant-force escapement. Girard-Perregaux (GP) first unveiled the Constant Escapement in 2013 as a wristwatch with a unique, dual-wheel escapement with an integral constant-force silicon buckling spring. Ten years on, the Neo Constant Escapement is a revamp of the original concept with incremental upgrades to the mechanism. Initial thoughts The Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) is not merely a rehash of the original. It is a technical evolution, which is at the very minimum an academically interesting take on an already exotic escapement. The Only Watch edition is dressed in predominantly monochromatic livery with a pink gold case and movement bridges – even the mainspring barrels are pink gold. The generous use of pink gold might be polarising, which arguably makes it perfectly suited as a one-off piece that will inevitably find an eager buyer at the auction. In the grander scheme of things however, the NCE Only Watch edition marks the beginning of GP reviving the Constant Escapement. Even by today’s standards of advanced tech in watchmaking, the Constant Escapement is an integrated design comprised of a double-wheel escapement with a remontoir spring, making it an escapement unlike any other. It is admirable that the escapement has been updated for better reliability, while preserving its original ide...

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Squale Teams Up with an Elite Italian Dive Squad for their Latest Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Squale Jul 3, 2023

Squale Teams Up with an Elite Italian Dive Squad for their Latest Limited Edition

We’re in the midst of a long Fourth of July weekend here in the US, which means summer has more than arrived, and if you weren’t already in full colorful dive watch mode, now’s the time to figure out what the poolside, cocktail sipping watch is going to be. Squale, with their new Master x Palombari del Comsubin diver with a bright blue dial, is a late entry in the ongoing summer watch sweepstakes. The watch combines a unique piece of Italian military heritage into its design, and represents a surprising first for the brand. It’s also likely that its impressive specs can handle time at the beach, the pool, waiting around at the airport, and a whole lot more this vacation season.  The watch is based on Squale’s Master Marina Militare platform, relaunched in 2022 but with roots going back to the 1960s. The overall design here is 100% tool diver, with a simple, unfussy case, and a dial that’s similarly focused on the important stuff, namely legibility and providing plenty of lume via a sandwich dial construction. The seal on the dial at 6:00 is that of the Comsubin dive team, an elite segment of the Italian Navy that specializes in the most complex underwater operations. The bright blue shade used for the dial is both a Squale signature and an homage to the Comsubin uniform, which is a similar tone. Squale says that the Comsubin played a key role in the design of the watch, which is specced to handle just about anything they might encounter – members of the team...

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An Unlikely Tudor Throwback (in Solid Gold) Heads to Only Watch Worn & Wound
Tudor Throwback Jun 29, 2023

An Unlikely Tudor Throwback (in Solid Gold) Heads to Only Watch

We’ll have a lot more on our favorite lots from this year’s Only Watch sale next week, but on this day of big Tudor news, we’d be remiss not to mention their contribution to the 2023 edition of the charity auction, a solid gold chronograph inspired by their very first automatic chronograph. The Tudor Prince Chronograph One brings some luxury flair to the auction from the tool watch specialist, in a format that the brand had all but abandoned by the time they relaunched in the US over a decade ago. In addition to being a literal unique piece (as all watches in the Only Watch sale are) this one sports a new caliber that is honestly kind of hard to believe even exists in 2023.  The 12, 6, 9 chronograph display here is a familiar sight to anyone who has dabbled in enthusiast centric chronos – it’s the hallmark layout of the vaunted Valjoux 7750, an ubiquitous caliber if there ever was one, used by more brands than we can possibly count over the years, including, of course, Tudor. The Tudor Prince Chronograph line that made use of these movements as well as the earlier “Big Blocks” dating to the late 1970s have always been collector favorites, coming in a variety of colorways over the years. It differs sharply from modern Tudor chronographs that use their in-house caliber with a 3,6 9 layout that seems to beg for comparisons to the Daytona, which of course is made by Rolex, Tudor’s sister brand. Now that classic layout is back, sort of, with what Tudor describe...

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Omega Celebrates 75 Years of the Seamaster with the New “Summer Blue” Collection Worn & Wound
Omega Celebrates 75 Years Jun 27, 2023

Omega Celebrates 75 Years of the Seamaster with the New “Summer Blue” Collection

The Seamaster turns 75 this year, and if you thought Omega was going to let the anniversary pass without a major celebratory release, well, needless to say you’d be sorely mistaken. Today, the brand unveiled an 11 watch collection, covering the expanse of the Seamaster range to pay tribute to all aspects of what many would argue is a brand within a brand. More than anything, the new suite of Seamasters is a reminder of the diversity of watches made with the “Seamaster” name on the dial. Even more than the Speedmaster, the Seamaster collection represents the core of what Omega is as a brand today, a fully integrated manufacture that makes tech forward, accessible, heirloom quality watches for every possible scenario.  Omega has developed a remarkably coherent conceit behind this release, which they are subtitling “Precision at Every Level,” a reference to the brand’s high spec METAS certified movements and the range of depths Seamaster watches are certified to. The idea here is that Omega is using a shade of “Summer Blue” on each dial, but in lighter or darker gradients depending on the depth rating of the watch. The Aqua Terra, rated to 150 meters, has a dial that appears light blue with a subtle gradient effect, but once you get down to the depths of the Ploprof and Ultra Deep, the dials get darker with a more pronounced gradient. The blue used here is distinct from other shades of blue used throughout the Omega catalog, so these watches should be immedia...

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Longines Introduces the Spirit Zulu Time 39 mm SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 21, 2023

Longines Introduces the Spirit Zulu Time 39 mm

Originally introduced in 42 mm last year, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time now gets a more comfortable 39 mm case. The new variant retains all the appealing design elements of the original that are loosely inspired by the brand’s first dual time zone watch from 1925, including the legible dial and a vintage-style, bi-directional bezel. Initial thoughts The Spirit Zulu Time is a great example of how to execute a vintage-style watch. However, a significant drawback was the large, 42 mm size of the original, which was quite hefty on the wrist and not quite suited to the retro style. Longines clearly recognised this issue and responded surprisingly quickly in introducing a more wearable size. While the 39 mm size is certainly positive, the case thickness of 13.5 mm leaves it notably thick relative to the diameter; the thickness is comparable to some automatic chronographs. As a result, it may feel clunky on the wrist for some. That said, the reason for the case height is fundamental: the watch is powered by the same movement as the original.   Still, the Spirit Zulu Time continues to be an excellent value proposition, starting at US$3,050 in steel while the steel and gold model is US$4,200. The fact that the Zulu Time is a genuine GMT with an independent local-time hour hand makes it a standout amongst affordable dual-time zone watches. Although it may fall short in terms of movement sophistication compared to the similarly-priced Tudor Black Bay GMT, it has the advantage of ...

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[Video] Hands-On: the Aera D-1 Ocean Diver Worn & Wound
May 31, 2023

[Video] Hands-On: the Aera D-1 Ocean Diver

Aera Instruments is a brand based in the UK that just unveiled their second collection, consisting of incremental updates to their D-1 and P-1 diver and pilot watches. The D-1 Ocean Diver is a blue version of the black watch that debuted last year, and it has a couple of small less visible refinements that improve the overall experience Aera is providing. The choices they made – what to update, and what not to update – reveal something about where the brand might be heading, and what they deem important. I had a chance to briefly handle the initial D-1 and P-1 releases last year, and while I thought they were completely fine, they didn’t linger in the mind the way some watches do. I’ve been wearing the D-1 for about a week now, though, and find myself really enjoying the subtly complex design choices and distinctly contemporary vibe of this dive watch.  $1600 [Video] Hands-On: the Aera D-1 Ocean Diver Case 904L Steel Movement Sellita SW200-1 Elabore Grade Dial Blue Lume Globolight markers Lens Sapphire Strap Rubber Water Resistance 300 meters Dimensions 40 x 49.8mm Thickness 16mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $1600 Notable Specs and Features  Looking through the spec sheet, the number that will likely jump out at most people right away is the D-1’s diameter: a healthy 44mm. And that’s not the only large number you’ll find when you take your calipers to the case. The lug to lug is 49.8mm, the lug width is 22mm, and the case height (to th...

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Andreas Strehler Introduces the Strehler Sirna SJX Watches
May 25, 2023

Andreas Strehler Introduces the Strehler Sirna

Accomplished but relatively low key, Andreas Strehler is launching a new brand known simply as Strehler, which aims to reach a wider audience with more accessible prices. Mr. Strehler’s stated aim of the Sirna is to offer collectors a simple daily wearer that embodies the technical mastery he has become known for. The brand’s opening act is the Sirna, named after the town of Sirnach in northeastern Switzerland where the manufacture is based. Strehler marks a departure from Mr. Strehler’s previous work in terms of aesthetics. While his earlier (and pricier) creations emphasised his distinctive papillon, or “butterfly”, movement architecture and resulting cushion-shaped case, the Sirna is more traditional in form. It is a strong debut for the new brand and a sign of good things to come. Initial thoughts I’ve always admired Mr Strehler’s watches from an intellectual standpoint, but his cushion-cased designs have never resonated with me on an aesthetic level. Naturally, I am thrilled to see Mr. Strehler’s work arrive in a more traditionally-styled package. The Sirna appears to exudes quality – unsurprising given Mr Strehler’s reputation for good work. It’s enough of a reputation that other independent watchmakers turn to him for components and movements (more on that below). Even obscure details like the engravings on the case back look to be satisfyingly crisp and precise. And the patterned titanium dial is the star, though deceptively simple in style, i...

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Hands-On: The Peculiar Timeless HMS Worn & Wound
May 22, 2023

Hands-On: The Peculiar Timeless HMS

One of the things I love seeing in young watch brands is a strong, original point of view. There is no shortage of great, simple tool and sport watches available from brands new and old, making the space quite difficult to stake a new claim within. Getting off that well trodden path offers the opportunity to explore and express new ideas and flesh out off-genre watches in a manner that grants a new brand some breathing room. This is exactly what the brand Timeless has done with their latest watch, the HMS. This is a watch that defies simple categorization, yet feels genuinely approachable. Timeless has taken a big swing with the HMS, and while it doesn’t connect on every level, there’s plenty to enjoy in the point of view being expressed.  The concept of the HMS was revealed in late 2020, and would go on to take shape over the following year, catching our attention along the way. The HMS is an immediately striking watch that eschews typical genre codes we generally expect to see, and while it struggles to balance the somewhat disparate elements, there’s some genuine charm to the underlying concept that feels rather refreshing. In the short time since its release, the HMS has already taken evolutionary steps, and what we have here is the HMS ref. 003. The HMS is a bit of an eyeful at a glance, with no clear focal point emerging between the ornate detailed structures that comprise the lugs, the case, and the dial, with each of those areas offering plenty of details to...

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J.N. Shapiro Launches the Resurgence, the First U.S. Made Mechanical Watch Since 1969 Worn & Wound
Hamilton watches rolled off May 22, 2023

J.N. Shapiro Launches the Resurgence, the First U.S. Made Mechanical Watch Since 1969

It’s not hyperbole to say that this is an historic day in American watchmaking history. J.N. Shapiro, the California based indie known primarily for their beautiful engine turned dials, has announced a new American made watch. According to the brand, this is the first mechanical watch that can be accurately described as “Made in America” since 1969, when the last American made Hamilton watches rolled off the production line. It’s a big deal, and a big step for a watchmaker that has been very much on the rise in recent years, taking on more complex production challenges with every new release. From dials, to cases, to movements, Shapiro can now claim a watch where virtually every component is made in a single workshop.  The watch, which Shapiro has dubbed the Resurgence, is the culmination of 12 years of learned experience among Shapiro and his team. At a glance, it has all of the aesthetic hallmarks of any Shapiro watch. A highly detailed multi level dial, for one, accented with intricate engine turning that has become Shapiro’s hallmark. What sets this watch apart, though, is the movement, which is not only beautiful to look at, with healthy doses of anglage, bridges with a distinct Damaskeening pattern (the American equivalent of Côtes de Genève), and rounded spokes on the caliber’s wheels, but has been designed and fabricated entirely in the United States. Shapiro produced his first movement prototypes in 2019, and that has led to the caliber at work in t...

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Highlights: Notable Independents at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe timepieces May 22, 2023

Highlights: Notable Independents at Christie’s Hong Kong

Having covered the extraordinary Patek Philippe timepieces and the single-owner “Ultimate Collection” in Christie’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong, we now shift gears and look at the sales’s line-up of independent watchmaking. The independents in the sale are of course led by big names like Richard Mille and F.P. Journe – amongst the latter’s offerings in the sale is the rare Tourbillon Souverain in the colours of the Chinese flag. But alongside these six- and seven-figure watches (in U.S. dollar terms), are some underrated watches that might be value buys, notably the Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab. And then there’s the simply whimsical with the Konstantin Chaykin Clown II. Important Watches (lots 2201-2360) begins at 1:00 pm on May 26 – the catalogue is available here. The “China 2010” dial Lot 2215: Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab While Ulysse Nardin is not an independent watchmaker in the strictest sense of the term, it isn’t owned by a luxury group. And the Freak is still an avant-garde watch over two decades after its introduction, a watch so exotic it seems to have emerged from mind of a talented independent watchmaker. Which is true: it was conceived by Carole Forestier then refined and perfected by Ludwig Oechslin. So the Freak certainly makes the cut in this independents feature. And this particular Freak is incorporates some notable innovations. Historically a platform for movement-technology experimentation, the Freak evolved into the F...

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[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Three Lasting Divers Under $5,000 Worn & Wound
Tudor Sinn May 18, 2023

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Three Lasting Divers Under $5,000

We’ve been inundated with incredible dive watches in recent years, at a wide range of price points, but particularly under $5,000, where dive watches belong. There are three examples in particular that represent this trend, and all three have remained standard bearers in the subsequent short years since releasing. Each of these watches reveal something important about Tudor, Sinn, and Seiko, in that even when it comes to straight forward tool watches, they can still surprise us in the best of ways. We’ve written plenty about these three watches since their releases, and today we’re looking at how they’ve come to form the core of my own dive watch rotation. Recent trends point to something of an unraveling of the typical genre labels, as well as an embrace for watches that lean toward the formal end of that equation, at minimum alongside the more tool-ish watches that have enjoyed the spotlight in the recent past. However, there’s something comforting about a classic diver, like grilled cheese and tomato soup, that always keeps people like me coming back. These are the kinds of watches that I end up reaching for more than any other on the day to day, as practical (and handsome) companions for my lifestyle. These are the watches that seem to transcend style trends that shift from era to era in the most blunt of manners.  In this video, I walk through each of these watches and why they’ve remained in my own watchbox since their release, and how well they’ve sto...

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Highlights: “The Ultimate Collection” at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts We round May 18, 2023

Highlights: “The Ultimate Collection” at Christie’s Hong Kong

Having concluded its Geneva sales that included an F.P. Journe thematic auction, Christie’s will soon open its spring sale season in Hong Kong. The auctioneer’s watch offerings include an impressive line-up of watches assembled over two decades by an Asian collector. Christened The Ultimate Collection, the selection is composed of 107 timepieces – almost all modern – ranging from Rolex to F.P. Journe. Although the watches are diverse, the collector’s keen eye can be discerned. The catalogue includes classic must-haves like various examples of the Rolex Daytona and GMT-Master II, but also rare and special watches from F.P. Journe as well as possibly-unique Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts. We round up nine notable picks from the sale, including the headline lots from F.P. Journe – a Chronomètre à Résonance “RTA” with a mother-of-pearl dial and the Tourbillon Souverain Coeur de Rubis. The “Coeur de Rubis” dial Other highlights including a Patek Philippe Dome Clock that was originally owned by Jean-Claude Biver of Hublot and Blancpain fame, along with uncommon variants of the landmark Lange 1, including the Lange 1A and ref. 101.027X. The Ultimate Collection takes place on May 26 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) – the catalogue is available here. Lot 2537 – F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain Anniversaire “Hong Kong”  In 2016, F.P. Journe marked the 10th anniversary of its first ever boutique (which was in Tokyo) with the ...

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Ollech & Wajs Introduces the 8001, an Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Based on a 1970s Chronograph Worn & Wound
May 17, 2023

Ollech & Wajs Introduces the 8001, an Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Based on a 1970s Chronograph

Since Ollech & Wajs reconstituted itself in 2019, they’ve released a string of well regarded sports watches that pay tribute to some of the brand’s key designs from the 1960s and 1970s. This period, obviously, is fertile ground for watch design inspiration, with plenty of unusual, colorful attempts to build something different, along with your normal array of no fuss, black dialed divers. Ollech & Wajs has really focused on the hits, and on a somewhat insane commitment to build quality (my favorite example: the C-1000, one of the most under the radar 1,000 meter divers you’ll find anywhere). For this latest release, however, they’re looking toward an old design that is heavy with 70s funk, and then…un-funking it? At a glance, the new OW 8001 is the product of at least a few strange decisions.  Let’s step back a moment and take a look at the watch that inspired the OW 8001, the OW 8000. This year marks the 50th anniversary of Ollech & Wajs’ early foray into the integrated bracelet market in the form of a sporty, “TV dial” chronograph with a smoked brown dial. The case of the 8000 appears to be overbuilt and chunky in a way that Ollech & Wajs has always favored, but there’s a certain elegance to the case shape and the way the case connects to the bracelet (notice the facet angled downward at the top and bottom of the case). Ollech & Wajs were far from the only brand to make a TV dial style watch, and they certainly weren’t the only brand to experiment ...

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Highlights: The Artisanal and Complicated at Phillips’ Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Audubon” featuring May 17, 2023

Highlights: The Artisanal and Complicated at Phillips’ Hong Kong

After round up the best examples of independent watchmaking on offer at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI, let’s turn to notable complications and artisanal timepieces in the sale that takes place on May 24 and 25.  Amongst the highlights are easy choices like the Patek Philippe ref. 5016P, the most complicated watch made by the Geneva watchmaker at the time of its launch. Others might go under the radar (and perhaps be good buys), like the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Mystérieuse with its transparent time display and floating hands. As for the artisanal, a highlight is undoubtedly the Vacheron Constantin “Audubon” featuring a cloisonné dial done by the famed Anita Porchet, arguably the best enameller in watchmaking.  Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here.  Lot 836: Vacheron Constantin “Birds of America” ref. 43060/000J-8434  by Anita Porchet Enamelling at its highest level is an art form equal to the best of complicated watchmaking. Amongst Vacheron Constantin’s earliest but also best known enamelled watches is the series inspired by drawings from Birds of America by John-James Audubon. The 19th century American naturalist documented most of the continent’s birds in the landmark tome, the pages of which served as inspiration for the series of watches. For the “Birds of America” series, Vacheron Constantin turned to the best enamelers of the day, including Muriel Sechaud and of course Anita Porchet. Going by t...

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Introducing the Earthform Collection, a Limited Edition Series by Unimatic and Huckberry Inspired by Colors Found in the Natural World Worn & Wound
Timex May 11, 2023

Introducing the Earthform Collection, a Limited Edition Series by Unimatic and Huckberry Inspired by Colors Found in the Natural World

Our friends over at Huckberry are on a bit of a roll. They just teamed up with Timex for an Ironman Flix reissue that gave watch collectors of a certain age a hefty dose of nostalgia when they were least expecting it. And now we get word that they’re working with Unimatic, the Italian watch brand and design house, on a trio of colorful tool watches inspired by, as Unimatic puts it, colors and textures from the natural world. That feels right in line with the Huckberry ethos. They’re a retailer that is clearly bent towards outdoor adventure and a general fascination with cool gear, and the new Earthform Collection seen here slots nicely into their larger catalog.  What we have here are three iterations of the Unimatic Modello Quattro, which is on the toolier end of Unimatic’s larger collection of tool watches. It’s essentially a Modello Uno (the brand’s dive watch) but with a fixed bezel, sans markings. So we get a highly legible diver-style dial with big plots of lume at the hour markers and a case that’s designed to meet a 300 meter water resistance rating, but without the extra moving piece of a bezel insert. It’s really a distillation of the Unimatic aesthetic, which itself is a distillation of classic sports watch design cues, filtered through a minimalist, Italian sensibility.  First up is the Sandstone Modello Quattro, which has an orange dial with a fumé-like effect, but instead of fading to a darker tone at the dial’s perimeter, it appears darkes...

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Auction Watch: Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer SJX Watches
May 5, 2023

Auction Watch: Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer

Online watch auctioneers Loupe This have just listed a Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer in an online-only sale that runs from now till May 11. Barely a handful have emerged – one was sold at Phillips Perpetual in London in 2021 – but this example is the first to go under the hammer. The scarcity is of the Double Impulse Chronometer on the secondary market is simply because there are few of them in circulation. Around 50 have been made to date and with about a dozen being produced each year, the wait for an order placed now stands at about eight years. The exceptional demand for the watch is entirely justified, since the Double Impulse Chronometer is arguably the most significant English wristwatch in production today. Consigned by the original owner, this specimen is quintessential Frodsham. Numbered “010800” and delivered in September 2019, this is one of the first examples made, the 13th in fact, according to Richard Stenning, co-owner of Charles Frodsham. More notably, it is an unusual combination of a stainless steel case and white ceramic dial with double cyphers. According to Mr Stenning, this was the first of only two watches with this configuration made to date. The cyphers are an option but arguably crucial since they reference the firm’s history and add to the vintage-inspired styling of the dial. Historically found on Frodsham pocket watches – often engraved on the movement but sometimes on the dial – such cyphers indicated Royal Warrant...

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eBay Finds: Elgin Sportsman, Jeep Comanche LCD, and Full Kits Galore Worn & Wound
Hamilton Enicar May 4, 2023

eBay Finds: Elgin Sportsman, Jeep Comanche LCD, and Full Kits Galore

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Bucherer Archimedes Super Compressor Starting this week off with a killer vintage diver, a Bucherer Archimedes Super Compressor. This beauty is the classic 36mm dual crown type, with the same case style used by companies like Bulova, Hamilton, Enicar and Benrus to name a few. The Archimedes stands out from other Super Compressors with the bright orange dial. This example is in excellent condition with an unpolished case and flawless dial. The dual crowns are the oversized type, with the classic cross-hatched design on the ends. Seller states the watch runs well, but no movement picture. You really can’t go wrong with these EPSA cased Super Compressor divers, and they are only getting more desired by collectors and harder to find in good shape. View auction here. Vintage Accutron Navigator Here’s a rare and unusual piece, a vintage 1967 Accutron Navigator Mark 2 ships chronometer. These were used as extremely accurate time keeping devices on ships to aid in navigation. Usually these are high grade manual clocks, but Accutron dipped their toes in the water (see what I did there? ;-)) with their tuning fork movements. I read that this clock used three tuning fork movements mounted at...

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Hands On with the All New Nodus Unity Worn & Wound
Nodus May 2, 2023

Hands On with the All New Nodus Unity

I must admit that I have been admiring this LA-based microbrand from afar for quite some time. I promise I will try to avoid the easy pun about taking “Nodus” despite my Dad status and love of cringy, unfunny jokes. Although Nodus watches have been a regular feature on my Instagram feed and at RedBar events, I haven’t had the chance to try them on or examine them closely myself. So when Nodus reached out and offered me a sneak peek at their new Unity line of watches, I jumped at the opportunity. Soon after, my curiosity got the best of me and I asked for a review sample.  After seeing the watch in photographs, I was intrigued by its unique concept and bold use of color. It struck me as distinct from anything else in the Nodus catalog, particularly in contrast to their previous Duality Unity with its dual crown and inner rotating bezel. Still, I had reservations about where a watch like this could fit into my collection. A few days later, it arrived, and the timing couldn’t have been better. I wore it during a sunny Easter weekend and for a few days at the beach, and my initial intrigue quickly turned into fondness. The attention to detail, comfort, and playful color scheme charmed me.  $700 Hands On with the All New Nodus Unity Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 Dial Pink/Blue Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 150 Dimensions 36.5 x 43.5mm Thickness 11.3mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $700 The first...

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The New Timex T80 Hyperbrights are Both Hyper and Bright, Making them Perhaps the Most Perfectly Named Watches of the Year Worn & Wound
Timex T80 Hyperbrights are Both May 2, 2023

The New Timex T80 Hyperbrights are Both Hyper and Bright, Making them Perhaps the Most Perfectly Named Watches of the Year

Pardon the pun, but some things in the watch industry tend to happen like clockwork. Every spring, brands seem to understand that a selection of bright colors is going to put us in just the right mood heading into the warmer months, and we see releases from brands across the horological map opting for a rainbow of pastels and brighter tones that make you want to get outdoors, smell the flowers, fight your allergies, and all of the other springtime rituals we can’t get enough of. I’m not complaining: I love color, and I especially love thawing out of those long New Hampshire winters, so a release like the new Timex T80 Hyperbrights just puts a smile on my face. The Hyperbrights collection takes the classic T80 format and puts it through what is almost a psychedelic lens. What we have here are a trio of watches, each featuring a multi-tone dial and gradient resin straps that shifts from the dominant color to adjacent hues as it wraps around the wrist. The Blue Haze features a stainless steel case and complementary tones of light blue and green, and the Purple Haze is the latest watch to include what I think is clearly the color of the moment, along with darker tones of blue. Rounding out the trio we get the Pink Haza, which matches elements of the strap to the gold tone case for a rich, warm look.  Timex does a great job of introducing new concepts and themes through watches that are familiar, and that’s exactly what they’ve done here, taking an 80s classic like the...

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