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Results for Pie Pan Dial

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Pie Pan Dial Omega

Faceted multi-level dial designed by Pierre Vibert for the 1952 Omega Constellation; modern Globemaster reissue.
Hands-On with the Dievas Maya MKIII Worn & Wound
Sinn Damasko UTS Archimede Jan 25, 2023

Hands-On with the Dievas Maya MKIII

Dievas is a cult microbrand even to those who are fans of cult microbrands. Founded in 2006, they are one of the OG independent tool watch brands. Following in the footsteps of Sinn, Damasko, UTS, Archimede, and others, Dievas’s focus is on tactical, modern, overbuilt, high-spec sports watches that are made in Germany. Still a rare origin of manufacture, Germany conjures a notion of precision, quality, and value that perhaps even surpasses Switzerland (especially in value). This is particularly different as Dievas was created by the team behind Gnomon Watches, a Singaporean retailer. At the very end of 2022, Dievas announced a new model, the Maya MKIII, after several years of being relatively dormant (models were for sale via Gnomon, but no new launches). As the name suggests, the new watch is the third iteration of the brand’s popular, tactical dive watch, the Maya. Redesigned from the ground up, the MKIII is smaller, sleeker, and more affordable, while maintaining some very impressive specs and features. Priced at $1,090 on a strap and $1,240 on a bracelet, the German-made Maya MKIII is available in black, blue, and Sealab green. The latter, featured in this review, is not only different in color but in dial and bezel insert design as well, making it an outlier in the collection. $1090 Hands-On with the Dievas Maya MKIII Case Matte Stainless Steel w/ Clear DLC Movement Sellita SW-200 Dial Metallic Green Sandwich Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Bracelet Water Resistance ...

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Hands-On with the Vario Versa Worn & Wound
Jan 18, 2023

Hands-On with the Vario Versa

Vario is a Singapore-based watch brand founded in 2016. Over the years, they have launched several watches with varying aesthetics though mostly drawing on historical watches as inspiration, such as their rugged 1918 Trench model. Their most recent model, the Versa, also pulls from the past, taking its inspirations from the Streamline/Art Deco era, but mixes in a reversible design for a watch that is both dual-time and dual-faced. A first, to our recollection, in the micro-brand space, the Versa is a surprising release that manages to be clever, while also quite affordable. Apart from the functionality, the Versa is also a rare, small-scale rectangular dress offering from a micro brand. Launched in three versions, the Versa is $428 and powered by not one, but two quartz calibers. For this hands-on, we’ll be taking a look at the blue variety. $428 Hands-On with the Vario Versa Case Stainless Steel Movement 2 x Ronda Slimtech 1062 Dial Silver/Blue Lume NA Lens 2 x Flat Sapphire Strap Black Leather Water Resistance 5 ATM Dimensions 26 x 40mm Thickness 18mm Lug Width 20mm Crown 2 x Push-pull Warranty Yes Price $428 Notable Specs and Features The Versa is a watch defined by a novel and enjoyable feature: it’s essentially two watches in one. The watch head consists of two main components, a frame, and a watch module. The module is created with two slim, small quartz watches mounted back to back, dials facing out, and crowns at twelve. The module is attached to the frame via ...

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New: Seiko 62MAS modern interpretation Seiko SLA065 Deployant
Seiko 62MAS modern interpretation Seiko Jan 14, 2023

New: Seiko 62MAS modern interpretation Seiko SLA065

The SLA065 is comfortable on the wrist and fits well despite its relatively tall 13.1mm thickness. It is now issued in a larger 41mm case instead of the 39mm case in the SLA017 reissue. The watch is water resistant to 200 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear. Overall, the Seiko Prospex SLA065 is a great choice for anyone looking for a fun daily beater. The combination of high-quality case finish and craftsmanship, along with the mechanical movement, make the new 62MAS reissue a standout choice. The watch is limited to 1300 pieces.

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The top three Frederique Constant releases of 2022 Time+Tide
Frederique Constant releases Jan 5, 2023

The top three Frederique Constant releases of 2022

Last year saw many brands reinvent themselves, create completely new collections, or try to grab hold of the latest hype train for dear life. Yet some brands doubled down on their sensibilities and reminded us what it is they stand for. One of those being Frederique Constant, who continue to grow as a company on … ContinuedThe post The top three Frederique Constant releases of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The MB&F; Legacy Machine is a jaw-on-the-floor original Time+Tide
MB&F; Dec 29, 2022

The MB&F; Legacy Machine is a jaw-on-the-floor original

Maximilian Büsser is a dreamer. His is a tale of audacity, swirled with a healthy pour of unfettered creativity. After all, his company, MB&F; (Max Büsser & Friends) has a slogan: “A creative adult is a child who survived”, meaning his own sense of wonder never left him. As a result, his virtuoso horological expressions … ContinuedThe post The MB&F; Legacy Machine is a jaw-on-the-floor original appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Insight: Fine Watchmaking Market Map in 2022 SJX Watches
Nov 29, 2022

Insight: Fine Watchmaking Market Map in 2022

For almost as long as I’ve been interested in watches, I’ve tried to find an objective way to visualise the stratification of the various luxury watch brands. I’m as fascinated by the process of watchmaking as much as the products themselves, and I wanted to find a way to differentiate brands based on the production techniques they employ, yet do so objectively. I believe you can tell a lot about a brand’s values and capabilities by looking at their methods, but it can be difficult to penetrate the smoke and mirrors of luxury watch marketing to see what’s really going on behind the curtain. An objective measure: watchmaker-hours per watch In my review of the Saxonia Thin last year, I used the metric “watches per watchmaker” to illustrate the economics of A. Lange & Söhne. While this is not a perfect metric, it is simple and quantitative, and crucially, it can often be derived from publicly available information. Taking this analysis one step further, I added Swiss, German, and Japanese national statistics for working hours to calculate the maximum possible number of watchmaker-hours per watch for more than 50 luxury watch brands. The start of the map, the Saxonia Thin How to interpret this metric The watchmaker-hours metric is not the number of hours that a watchmaker spends on every watch. Rather, it’s the theoretical maximum number of hours that a brand’s watchmakers could possibly spend with each watch. This workrate can be viewed as a simple proxy fo...

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Cambodian Watchmaking School Debuts an In-House Tourbillon SJX Watches
Nov 22, 2022

Cambodian Watchmaking School Debuts an In-House Tourbillon

Presented to the world leaders who were recently in Phnom Penh for the ASEAN Summit, the ASEAN Lotus Tourbillon was created by the Prince Horology Vocational Training Center, the impressively-equipped watchmaking school set up by local conglomerate Prince Holding Group. (I visited the school in 2020 just before it opened its doors – see our report here.) Produced in an initial run of 25 pieces for the summit, it contains a hand-wind movement that is as notable for both its hand finishing and the one-minute tourbillon regulator. Cambodian prime minister Hun Sen was personally involved in the design of the watch – he received the very first example – and posted photos of the watch on his Facebook page a few days before the summit with the comment “Khmer can do it”. Initial thoughts Having been aware of the project and its ambitions since I visited the school two years ago, I was expecting much of the Lotus Tourbillon and I wasn’t disappointed. The quality of the execution is immediately apparent in the hand finishing of the components, particularly for the key components of the tourbillon, namely the cage and bridge. Equally impressive is the fact that it was developed and completed in under two years. Admittedly, the Lotus Tourbillon is plain in terms of the dial and case aesthetics, but the mechanical excellence is obvious. Importantly, the movement is likely to make it into a series of watches that will be sold publicly to raise funds for watchmaking school,...

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Trafford Watch Co. Crossroads Time+Tide
Nov 21, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Trafford Watch Co. Crossroads

Trafford are shaping up to be a brand who are impossible to pin down, but if their releases continue the trend of happy surprises then we can only hope that never stops. Their first watch was a chronograph dedicated to 20th Century racing drivers-turned-spies, and their second watch is this new Crossroads. Despite a British … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Trafford Watch Co. Crossroads appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1463 “Tasti Tondi” Nov 18, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong Auction

With the curtain having just come down on the Geneva sale season, auction houses are migrating to Hong Kong for the second half of the autumn auctions. Going on the block at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV are 270 lots that encompass heavy-hitters and “hype” watches, but as usual we’ll take a look instead at a few interesting watches, starting with a selection of independent watchmaking. We round up nine notable creations from the independents, mainly time-only watches with high-quality construction and unique design, such as a Voutilainen Vingt-8 with a skeletonised dial and the Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down. The auction takes place on November 28 (lots 801-938) and November 29 (lots 939-1070). The full catalogue and sale registration can be accessed on Phillips.com. Lot 829: Roger Dubuis Hommage H37 A modern-day chronometer heavily inspired by traditional watchmaker – the aesthetics are a practically a revival of styling from the good old days – the Hommage H37 is an easy watch to like. Living up to its name, the Hommage pays tribute to classical gentlemen’s watches. It’s a three-hander in a classically-sized 37 mm case that contains a Lemania-based self-winding movement certified as a chronometer by the Besançon Observatory. The Hommage case was modelled on the Patek Philippe ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi” chrongraph, though the resemblance is less obvious on the time-only model. But the simple lines are undeniably appealing despite their sim...

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Grail Watches: The Holy Trinity (Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, And Vacheron Constantin) – And What Is A ‘Grail’ Anyway? – Reprise Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Nov 12, 2022

Grail Watches: The Holy Trinity (Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, And Vacheron Constantin) – And What Is A ‘Grail’ Anyway? – Reprise

“The Holy Trinity,” as any watch nerd knows, refers to the triumvirate of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. Colin Smith takes a look at what we mean – or think we mean - when we describe PP, AP, and VC as the “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking and when we describe a timepiece as our “grail watch.”

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What are the Different Types of Watches? A Comprehensive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 27, 2022

What are the Different Types of Watches? A Comprehensive Guide

To a newcomer, deciphering the world of timepieces can be an intimidating endeavor, and identifying the different types of watches presents a particular challenge. What distinguishes, say, a dive watch from a pilot watch, a quartz watch from a mechanical watch, a dual-time watch from a world timer? What are all those subdials and scales on the dial for? Do I need to change the date on my watch, and if so, how often? In this rundown of the various types of watches, we strive to answer the big questions (and/or link to another article that does).  Quartz vs. Mechanical vs. Automatic While watches vary widely in their styles, genres, and capabilities, they all fall into one of two major categories based on the type of movement inside them. Generally, with a few notable exceptions that we’ll touch upon, a watch is either “mechanical” or “quartz.” Mechanical watches further subdivide into two basic types: manually wound (or “hand-winding”), in which the user needs to periodically wind the watch via the crown to keep it working; and automatic (or “self-winding”), in which the movement’s mainspring is perpetually wound by an oscillating weight that swings with the natural motions of the wearer’s wrist. On the other hand, a quartz movement (as explained much more thoroughly in this article), replaces the mechanical movement’s traditional mainspring barrel with a small battery whose electrical charge passes via an integrated circuit into an oscillating tuni...

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Cartier (Re)Introduces the Pebble SJX Watches
Cartier Re)Introduces Oct 17, 2022

Cartier (Re)Introduces the Pebble

Widely anticipated due to inadvertent appearances on social media, the Cartier Pebble has now been officially announced, continuing the jeweller’s strong of vintage reissues like the Tank Cintree 150th Anniversary of 2020. Formally known as the Pebble-Shaped Watch, the reissue is a limited edition of 150 pieces to mark 50 years since the original, which was conceived by Cartier London a few years after the Crash. While not as famous as the Dali-esque sibling, the Pebble is a simple yet distinctive design in the best tradition of Cartier – a square dial rotated 45 degrees from the horizontal within a perfectly round case. Initial thoughts Although not especially well known before last year’s record auction result for a vintage example, the Pebble is an easily recognisable design. At 36 mm it’s modest in size by modern standards, but stands out with its clean lines and peculiar but pleasing shape. The remake smartly sticks closely to the original, so much so that they will be almost identical at a distance. For fans of Cartier’s classic and quirky style, the Pebble reissue is appealing – albeit at a steep price. The Pebble is twice as expensive as the Santos-Dumont lacquered case in gold that has the same movement, and 50% pricier than the Tank Cintree 150th that has an arguably finer, thinner calibre. The Pebble is a winner in terms of execution but the price is difficult to stomach. Sometimes known as the “baseball” The Pebble belongs to the group of oddl...

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Patek Philippe’s Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual is Now Left Handed SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Oct 16, 2022

Patek Philippe’s Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual is Now Left Handed

The combination of split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar has been a mainstay in Patek Philippe’s catalogue ever since the ref. 5004, but the brand’s latest take on the concept is unorthodox. The Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5373P-001 is described by Patek Philippe as designed for “left handers” and has its crown and pushers on the left side of the case. Essentially an inverted version of the ref. 5372P that’s now discontinued, the ref. 5373P is the first “destro” timepiece among the brand’s regular production offerings, but the movement is classic Patek Philippe. Like the earlier versions of the model, the ref. 5373P is powered by the CHR 27-525 PS Q, a gorgeous, refined, and extremely slim movement that’s amongst the thinnest split-seconds chronographs ever made. Initial thoughts The ref. 5373P is paradoxical. It’s not majorly different from its predecessor, in fact it’s just a rotated case and new dial, but the watch looks and feels entirely different from the ref. 5372P. The left-handed case sets it apart, as does the high-contrast livery. The black-and-red colour scheme seems mismatched to the elegant form of the watch – the case and movement are both impressively slim – but I can imagine this will have a strong appeal for someone seeking something different yet fundamentally classic Patek Philippe high horology. This clearly stands out in the catalogue, offering an alternative that is recognisably di...

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INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci sets sail Time+Tide
Panerai or possibly even Squale Oct 7, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci sets sail

When you think of watch collaborations with the Italian navy your mind would usually travel to a brand like Panerai, or possibly even Squale. That said, with Bulgari so proud of their Italian heritage, it makes perfect sense that they would pay tribute to an important piece of their nation’s history, regardless of their militaristic … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci sets sail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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IWC and Filling Pieces create the perfect watch + sneaker pairing Time+Tide
IWC Sep 27, 2022

IWC and Filling Pieces create the perfect watch + sneaker pairing

IWC’s recent partnerships with Pantone, Orlebar Brown, Hot Wheels and more have yielded a variety of takes on different models from their collection. Their latest collaboration sees a green-tinged, effort bound in leather, rubber and ceramic, as Filling Pieces, a Dutch footwear brand, pay tribute to IWC’s “Woodland” Pilot’s Chronograph, released at this year’s Watches and … ContinuedThe post IWC and Filling Pieces create the perfect watch + sneaker pairing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hanhart fully embraces #FliegerFriday with the Night Pilot Time+Tide
Sep 9, 2022

Hanhart fully embraces #FliegerFriday with the Night Pilot

Function over form is the ethos of a tool watch, especially a pilot’s one. By extension, the pieces that manage to combine the two in a unique way are few and far between – and the new Hanhart #FliegerFriday Night Pilot happens to be one of them. Full-lume dials are often well-received at the T+T … ContinuedThe post Hanhart fully embraces #FliegerFriday with the Night Pilot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Tudor Introduces the Pelagos 39 SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Aug 30, 2022

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos 39

In a perhaps unsurprising but very much a welcome move, Tudor has just taken the covers off the Pelagos 39, a scaled-down and slightly dressed up version of its “professional” diver’s watch. Rated to 200 m and just 11.8 mm tall, the Pelagos 39 is essentially a condensed version of its bigger brother. Initial thoughts No doubt in response to feedback, Tudor has been steadily trimming the sizes of its key models. The brand has preserved the key technical features of the watches while reducing the case diameter, dialling back on the chunkiness of its first-generation models. The Black Bay Pro was a smaller GMT and a few months later the Pelagos 39 arrives as the smaller “pro” diver. Besides the smaller diameter, the new Pelagos is also thinner, so it will no doubt be more easily wearable on an everyday basis than its 42 mm counterpart. Wearability aside, the Pelagos 39 is evidently caters to enthusiasts in other ways. It has a symmetrical dial with no date display, while the text above six include a single line in red. It’s difficult not to like the Pelagos 39. The Pelagos 39 also has subtle changes to the dial and bezel finish that differentiate it from the larger models. The brushed finish on those components give it a little bit more shine, avoiding the muted, functional appearance of the earlier Pelagos watches. As is typical for Tudor, the Pelagos 39 is priced at just US$4,400. Considering its build quality and movement, that ranks it amongst the best in cla...

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Zenith Ambassador And Supercoach Patrick Mouratoglou: ‘Little Details Make Big Differences’ Quill & Pad
Zenith Ambassador Aug 29, 2022

Zenith Ambassador And Supercoach Patrick Mouratoglou: ‘Little Details Make Big Differences’

Patrick Mouratoglou morphed from a frustrated player in his teens into today’s perennial supercoach; he is able to deal with the highly complicated psyche and game of an elite competitor just the way a horologist is qualified to finetune a supercomplication. And he is a Zenith ambassador. Learn all about him here thanks to tennis and timepiece writer Miguel Seabra!

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