Hodinkee
Weekend Edition: Watches Are The Windows To The Soul
They don't just tell the time. They tell us who we are – or who we could be.
Results for Tobacco Dial
6,179 articles · 555 videos found · page 207 of 225
Hodinkee
Quill & Pad
Montegrappa Bijo-To-Yaju: A Love Story In More Ways Than One
Montegrappa tells the 4,000-year-old classic fairy tale 'Beauty and the Beast' as it does best: in the form of a handmade writing instrument. The limited edition Montegrappa Bijo-To-Yaju fountain pen was created in collaboration with Japanese designer Tomita Kazuhiko.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Petite Aiguille Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Any Of These Finalists Could Win
Two regulators, a chronograph, a Spring Drive classic, a new steel sports watch with a twist on the seconds, and a Nixie tube watch: this is what our peanut gallery must choose a winner from in the Petite Aiguille category, finding the best value under CHF 10,000. A tall order!
Teddy Baldassarre
What are the Different Types of Watches? A Comprehensive Guide
To a newcomer, deciphering the world of timepieces can be an intimidating endeavor, and identifying the different types of watches presents a particular challenge. What distinguishes, say, a dive watch from a pilot watch, a quartz watch from a mechanical watch, a dual-time watch from a world timer? What are all those subdials and scales on the dial for? Do I need to change the date on my watch, and if so, how often? In this rundown of the various types of watches, we strive to answer the big questions (and/or link to another article that does). Quartz vs. Mechanical vs. Automatic While watches vary widely in their styles, genres, and capabilities, they all fall into one of two major categories based on the type of movement inside them. Generally, with a few notable exceptions that we’ll touch upon, a watch is either “mechanical” or “quartz.” Mechanical watches further subdivide into two basic types: manually wound (or “hand-winding”), in which the user needs to periodically wind the watch via the crown to keep it working; and automatic (or “self-winding”), in which the movement’s mainspring is perpetually wound by an oscillating weight that swings with the natural motions of the wearer’s wrist. On the other hand, a quartz movement (as explained much more thoroughly in this article), replaces the mechanical movement’s traditional mainspring barrel with a small battery whose electrical charge passes via an integrated circuit into an oscillating tuni...
Deployant
Review: new E.C. Andersson the Poseidon
We received the new E.C. Andersson the Poseidon for a few weeks to try out. And this is our hands-on review of this adventure / tool watch for the masses.
Revolution
Visiting Mühle Glashütte, the Last Family-Owned Watch Manufacture in the Heart of German Watchmaking
Revolution USA Editor-in-Chief Bhanu Chopra sits down with Christian Fischer, Marketing Manager of Mühle Glashütte, to talk about the last 20 years of the brand’s most iconic tool watch, the S.A.R. Rescue-Timer. Mühle Glashütte is the only remaining family-owned watch manufacture in the German town of Glashütte and is currently managed by the sixth generation […]
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Cyrus Klepcys DICE Racing is a stimulating blast of organised chaos
Racing watches are some of the most desirable and historically significant models that have ever been released. While tool watches meant for the military and divers have mostly lost their original purpose, the exhilarating themes and overt extravagance of a racing chronograph is still as relevant to motorsport today as it was in the 1960s. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Cyrus Klepcys DICE Racing is a stimulating blast of organised chaos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Cartier (Re)Introduces the Pebble
Widely anticipated due to inadvertent appearances on social media, the Cartier Pebble has now been officially announced, continuing the jeweller’s strong of vintage reissues like the Tank Cintree 150th Anniversary of 2020. Formally known as the Pebble-Shaped Watch, the reissue is a limited edition of 150 pieces to mark 50 years since the original, which was conceived by Cartier London a few years after the Crash. While not as famous as the Dali-esque sibling, the Pebble is a simple yet distinctive design in the best tradition of Cartier – a square dial rotated 45 degrees from the horizontal within a perfectly round case. Initial thoughts Although not especially well known before last year’s record auction result for a vintage example, the Pebble is an easily recognisable design. At 36 mm it’s modest in size by modern standards, but stands out with its clean lines and peculiar but pleasing shape. The remake smartly sticks closely to the original, so much so that they will be almost identical at a distance. For fans of Cartier’s classic and quirky style, the Pebble reissue is appealing – albeit at a steep price. The Pebble is twice as expensive as the Santos-Dumont lacquered case in gold that has the same movement, and 50% pricier than the Tank Cintree 150th that has an arguably finer, thinner calibre. The Pebble is a winner in terms of execution but the price is difficult to stomach. Sometimes known as the “baseball” The Pebble belongs to the group of oddl...
Time+Tide
The seconde/seconde/ Smart(ass) makes you love to hate yourself
The popularity of smartwatches has risen massively over the last few years. Where they fail to strike a chord with many watch enthusiasts, however, is that with their added functionality and high-resolution screens they usually need to be charged on a daily basis. Sequent chose to put a different spin on a smartwatch by powering … ContinuedThe post The seconde/seconde/ Smart(ass) makes you love to hate yourself appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Laco goes midsized with their sporty Scorpions
Laco enters the entry level mid-sized sports/tool watch marketplace with a new collection which they call the Scorpions. In 4 colour options.
Time+Tide
How to use your analog watch as a compass
With the release of the titanium beast that is the Apple Watch Ultra, many have become interested in the idea of a tool watch. That rough and tumble piece that can get you through anything. However, much in the same way collectors love divers but rarely go diving, most tool watches will rarely touch their … ContinuedThe post How to use your analog watch as a compass appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Mühle-Glashütte S.A.R. Mission-Timer TITAN
Mühle-Glashütte aren’t a brand that most people are very familiar with, but the German brand is always full of surprises at every turn. The S.A.R. Rescue-Timer is a staple of their tool watch collection, boasting seafaring capability alongside a sophisticated, retro-futuristic case shape. Now, after 20 years of its use by the German Maritime Search … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Mühle-Glashütte S.A.R. Mission-Timer TITAN appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The ominous history of the Doomsday Clock
We’ve covered some pretty strange watches here on Time+Tide, even a bunch which don’t tell the time, but it’s rare that we discuss something that doesn’t physically exist. The Doomsday Clock is a concept and a symbol which has been referenced across plenty of media forms - from 2 Minutes to Midnight by Iron Maiden … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The ominous history of the Doomsday Clock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hanhart fully embraces #FliegerFriday with the Night Pilot
Function over form is the ethos of a tool watch, especially a pilot’s one. By extension, the pieces that manage to combine the two in a unique way are few and far between – and the new Hanhart #FliegerFriday Night Pilot happens to be one of them. Full-lume dials are often well-received at the T+T … ContinuedThe post Hanhart fully embraces #FliegerFriday with the Night Pilot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
D.C.’s top 5 from Geneva Watch Days
It’s coming-out season for the brands of Geneva Watch Days, and given the relative quiet of the past few months, we couldn’t be more excited. There’s plenty to tempt fans of every stripe, and if you know me, you know I’m all about tool watches with a classic flair, along with a propensity for the … ContinuedThe post D.C.’s top 5 from Geneva Watch Days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Spec Sheet: The IWC Mark XVIII: The Wearable Pilot's Watch With Serious Heritage
One unit of quintessential tool watch.
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Pelagos 39
In a perhaps unsurprising but very much a welcome move, Tudor has just taken the covers off the Pelagos 39, a scaled-down and slightly dressed up version of its “professional” diver’s watch. Rated to 200 m and just 11.8 mm tall, the Pelagos 39 is essentially a condensed version of its bigger brother. Initial thoughts No doubt in response to feedback, Tudor has been steadily trimming the sizes of its key models. The brand has preserved the key technical features of the watches while reducing the case diameter, dialling back on the chunkiness of its first-generation models. The Black Bay Pro was a smaller GMT and a few months later the Pelagos 39 arrives as the smaller “pro” diver. Besides the smaller diameter, the new Pelagos is also thinner, so it will no doubt be more easily wearable on an everyday basis than its 42 mm counterpart. Wearability aside, the Pelagos 39 is evidently caters to enthusiasts in other ways. It has a symmetrical dial with no date display, while the text above six include a single line in red. It’s difficult not to like the Pelagos 39. The Pelagos 39 also has subtle changes to the dial and bezel finish that differentiate it from the larger models. The brushed finish on those components give it a little bit more shine, avoiding the muted, functional appearance of the earlier Pelagos watches. As is typical for Tudor, the Pelagos 39 is priced at just US$4,400. Considering its build quality and movement, that ranks it amongst the best in cla...
Quill & Pad
Zenith Ambassador And Supercoach Patrick Mouratoglou: ‘Little Details Make Big Differences’
Patrick Mouratoglou morphed from a frustrated player in his teens into today’s perennial supercoach; he is able to deal with the highly complicated psyche and game of an elite competitor just the way a horologist is qualified to finetune a supercomplication. And he is a Zenith ambassador. Learn all about him here thanks to tennis and timepiece writer Miguel Seabra!
Time+Tide
The dent on my watch that reminds me of the best day of my life
I remember it all like it was yesterday. It happened so fast. One second, I was securing my Black Bay Steel to my wrist. The next, it slips out of my hand and I watch it take a four foot drop towards my kitchen floor tile. So many emotions stirred in me in that moment. … ContinuedThe post The dent on my watch that reminds me of the best day of my life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A deep dive into the Tissot PRX Chronograph with the man who made it happen
We chat with Tissot CEO Sylvain Dolla, and find out exactly how the PRX Chronograph came to be.The post A deep dive into the Tissot PRX Chronograph with the man who made it happen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: If you want to buy the new Bamford G-Shock right now, you’d better read this quick…
Andrew here! We’re comin’ in hot to this week’s Wind Down because we have a small allocation of Bamford G-Shock DW-6900BWD watches AVAILABLE HERE in the shop right now! We don’t need to tell you how hot this watch is, or the Bamford G-Shock legacy it carries on, but we DO need to tell you … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: If you want to buy the new Bamford G-Shock right now, you’d better read this quick… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Explorer Guide
The Rolex Explorer is in many ways the quintessential dressy tool watch from Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual collection - less flashy than the GMT-Master, less bulky than the Submariner, while still rooted, like those two models, in a history of adventure and discovery. While it has changed very little since the 1950s, today’s Rolex Explorer is the culmination of many decades of aesthetic and technical evolution, guided by a watchmaker for whom the subtlest details make all the difference in the world to its avid legions of fans. Underpinning the Explorer: Oyster Case and Perpetual Caliber The Rolex Explorer, like all Oyster Perpetual timepieces in Rolex’s Professional collection, is an expression of two technical milestones that Rolex and its visionary founder Hans Wisdorf contributed to watchmaking history. The first is the so-called Oyster case, developed in 1926, which revolutionized the construction of watch cases with its dustproof, waterproof, hermetically sealed structure, secured by a threaded caseback and a crown that screwed tightly into the case. In 1931, Rolex made history again with the creation of its first “Perpetual” movement (below), whose self-winding mechanism was driven by an oscillating rotor. The marriage of these two inventions gave rise to the “Oyster Perpetual” line of timepieces that remain at the heart of Rolex’s collection today, beginning with the Datejust in 1945 and coming to full fruition with the tool-oriented, yet still luxuri...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Franc Vila FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero
Short for “Franc Vila Founder”, FVF is a tale of redemption. Founded by the namesake designer, FVF is the second act of the Spanish watch designer, one he embarked on after his first went off the rails as many independent watch brands tend to do. FVF’s inaugural watch is the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. It’s an original look and at a glance there’s nothing linking it to the creations of the original Franc Vila brand – a good thing in my estimation. But look closely and hints of the earlier designs emerge. Most importantly the FVF1 reveals itself as an impressively executed watch – the movement has an interesting construction, excellent finishing, and an original aesthetic. Mr Vila has made his comeback in style. NB: The watch pictured is a prototype that’s been worn so it shows wear. The FVF1 has a flying tourbillon, roller day indicator, day and night display, and a 100-hour power reserve Rising from the ashes Born in Valencia but now a longtime resident of Switzerland, Mr Vila founded his namesake brand in 2005 and rode the wave that buoyed modern, flamboyant independent watchmaking for the next decade or so. Propelled by Mr Vila’s convivial personality, Franc Vila became one of the hot brands of the era. During those heady days, it could sell several dozen tourbillons and minute repeaters a year, making it one of the top clients of now-defunct complications specialist BNB Concept. A classic from the original Franc Vila brand, the Tourbillon Planèta...
Teddy Baldassarre
Panerai Watches Guide
Tracing its roots to the 19th Century but bursting on the cultural scene on the cusp of the 21st, Panerai is an overnight success more than 100 years in the making. From humble and very utilitarian beginnings as a maker of tools and instruments for military divers in the 1930s, the Florentine watchmaker has become a powerhouse in the luxury sector, its unapologetically militaristic and indisputably masculine designs blurring the lines between tool watch and luxury item like few brands before or since. Here is the story of Officine Panerai and an overview of the modern Panerai watch collections. Guido Panerai and the First Radiomir Giovanni Panerai opened his watchmaking shop on Ponte Alle Grazie in Florence in 1860, and with the help of his son Leon Franceso built it into the ancestral Italian city’s first retailer of Swiss watches as well as its first watchmaking school. When Giovanni’s grandson Guido took over the business, near the turn of the century - and acquired his wife’s family business, which made tools and hardware for military use, including combat sights, compasses and depth gauges - it had become essentially two companies: Orologerie Svizzera, the shop that sold prestigious Swiss watch brands like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Rolex; and Guido Panerai & Figlio, primarily a supplier of precision instruments and diving equipment to the Royal Italian Navy, or Regia Marina. As a military provider, Panerai recognized the need early on f...
Time+Tide
Bamford, TAG Heuer and Highsnobiety combine to pay tribute to an automotive icon
It’s the tail-end of the 1980s, and you and your stockbroker buddies are ripping down the Autobahn in the two fastest cars in the world – the Ferrari F40 and Porsche 959. Suddenly, you notice a flash of yellow in your rear-view mirror, which disappears in front of you as quickly as it appeared behind. … ContinuedThe post Bamford, TAG Heuer and Highsnobiety combine to pay tribute to an automotive icon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon “Cortina Watch”
A great deal of meaning is placed on anniversaries in watchmaking and Cortina Watch is celebrating its Golden Jubilee in 2022 with a slew of limited edition watches and a very special clock. The latest timepiece for the Singapore retailer’s milestone anniversary is the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”. A variant of the Endeavour tourbillon, this 10-piece limited edition watch features the brand’s signature fumé dial in blue, along with a one-minute flying tourbillon equipped with an uncommon cylindrical hairspring. Initial thoughts The watch combines the elegant and minimal design typical of Moser with the more contemporary that results from the cleanly open-worked movement. And despite being based on an existing model that was just introduced in March of this year, the Cortina edition is still impressive, largely thanks to the skeletonised movement. The cylindrical hairspring maybe be an anachronistic novelty rather than a practical innovation, but one that is rare in modern watchmaking, visually interesting, and historically significant, being rooted in 19th century marine chronometers. Moser aesthetics At 42 mm in diameter, the Cortina edition has the same dimensions as the standard model in white gold. In contrast, the Cortina version is in 18k red gold. Time is indicated on a domed sub-dial at 12 o’clock with the graduated “Funky Blue” finish that is synonymous with Moser. But unlike most othe...
Time+Tide
A rare pocket watch gifted by Abraham Lincoln after a shipwreck rescue is up for auction
Provenance is a huge buzzword in the watch world and refers to an object’s origin and record of ownership. The romantic side to timepieces, and a crucial element of what draws collectors to vintage timepieces, are the stories they tell and the lives they have lived. We have seen watches owned by Paul Newman, Marlon … ContinuedThe post A rare pocket watch gifted by Abraham Lincoln after a shipwreck rescue is up for auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Weekend Edition: What Makes For A High-Quality Field Watch?
A tool watch is, in fact, a watch that is a tool.
Time+Tide
2 UP: Andrew and Borna battle it out in field and vintage categories
In this brand new format, two participants choose two watches from their own collection to be placed in two categories. With two minutes on the clock, they get to tell the story of why their watch deserves to win. The winners will be decided in the YouTube comments, so head on over to cast your … ContinuedThe post 2 UP: Andrew and Borna battle it out in field and vintage categories appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #15 “Reference Numbers”
A true tell someone is a complete and utter watch nerd is when they rattle off a bunch of reference numbers, the numbers that identify a particular watch in a catalogue. Think you know your reference numbers? Try your hand at the puzzle belowThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #15 “Reference Numbers” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.