Time+Tide
The Studio Underd0g D0ghouse offers a glimpse of the future for British watchmaking
Perhaps the biggest opening in British watchmaking this year, we take a look inside the creative hub that is the D0ghouse.
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Time+Tide
Perhaps the biggest opening in British watchmaking this year, we take a look inside the creative hub that is the D0ghouse.
SJX Watches
Independent-friendly auction house Marteau & Co returns today for its second themed auction of the fall. Every watch in The Blueprint is, to varying extents, blue, or at least a blue-ish purple, and its flagship lot is an unusual example of a watch that laid the blueprint for much of today’s finishing-centric independent watchmaking. As always, Marteau & Co’s “maker’s fee” rewards the maker of the timepiece with 3% of the hammer price for each watch sold. This allows watchmakers to benefit from the appreciation of their past work, also known as the artist’s resale right, or droit de suite, a concept that’s been codified into law across Europe for fine art. This painting by Franco-Belgian artist Celine Lust accompanies a unique platinum Philippe Dufour simplicity with aventurine dial. Lot 4 – Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur Azur A last minute surprise-addition to the catalog, Futur Antérieur Azur the sky-blue debut of Louis Erard and Vianney Halter’s Futur Antérieur. A unique piece created for this auction, this continues Halter’s collaborative streak, homaging the landmark 1998 Antiqua. perpetual calendar. Rather than reproducing the original watch directly, the Futur Antérieur adapts many of its characteristic elements into a more compact and accessible format. The watch retains the asymmetrical display and layered construction that distinguished the original Antiqua. Hours and minutes can be seen through one porthole, and running seco...
Monochrome
De Bethune is, without a doubt, one of my favourite independent watchmakers. And I’m not the only one on the MONO team who feels this way. I love the bold, futuristic design paired with incredible refinement, the almost philosophical approach of Denis Flageollet, the experimental work done on materials, the astronomical inspirations, and the sheer […]
Hodinkee
Newport was always an enigma to me. For years, I heard tales of beautiful mansions, streets of opulence, centuries of history, a very endearing grass tennis court, a music festival, and, well, sailing. Yet despite living in New York City for over a decade, I'd never made the trip up I-95 (or the Northeast Corridor line) to see this historic town. So when the invitation came from A. Lange & Söhne to join them at the Audrain Concours d'Elegance, I leaped at the opportunity. I was excited to experience the car show, but I was equally excited to see the backdrop. The history is everywhere the moment you enter Newport, and the town offers so much that it's worth the trip regardless. Audrain just sweetens the deal. The timing, late September/early October, is smart. It's just at the tail end of the season, so you still get those beautiful summer sunsets and light, but the crowds have lessened. I think these picks would hold true if you were in town for the Newport Folk Festival, attending the International Tennis Hall of Fame Induction ceremony, or just spending a long weekend here, but if watches (and cars) are your thing, there's no better place to be than Newport. With The Long Layover, I'll look at events and cities around the world and give a 24- to 72-hour watch (or watch-adjacent) guide to each. The idea is to paint a picture of the city and help contextualize the watches, or, in this case, the event. First up is Audrain Newport Concours & Motor Week. The cars might be t...
Teddy Baldassarre
Three executions of the curvilinear classic ensure its nearly universal appeal and, increasingly, its status as a go-to red carpet favorite. More
Time+Tide
Inside the inaugural Istanbul Watch Festival, where 7,500 visitors gathered to explore brands including Quantum, Nomos, Bremont and Doxa
Worn & Wound
I’ll keep it simple: when someone says “Vianney Halter,” the first thing that comes to mind is the Antiqua. Okay, well, that assumes you are a watch nerd who knows who he is, but if you are, an image of this bizarre, visually challenging, yet brilliant watch should appear in your mind’s eye. A perpetual calendar spreads across three decentralized portholes with riveted frames that cut through the central body’s perimeter; it’s a relic from another dimension. It’s also a late-1990s design, predating the modern era of haute horology, making it a truly important artifact of independent watchmaking. And it’s ultra-rare, with a production of just over 100 units in total. All were in precious metal, and one recently set a record at auction, fetching over a million USD. This isn’t surprising, as Mr. Halter’s name has gained new relevance in the last couple of years through collaborative launches. At the last two Geneva Watch Days, watches bearing his name were likely the most talked-about launches. In 2025, he teamed with Behrens to release the KWH, an unexpected design with a peripheral “snake” time display that the brand continues to manufacture in different case materials. Though five-figure, it’s actually one of the more accessible Halters available. While unique and exciting, the KWH speaks to a wholly different aesthetic than the Antiqua, which is why this year’s GWD launch, the Bvlgari Octo Finnissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter, was so exciting....
Fratello
When luxury house Hermès unveiled the H08 in 2021, many rolled their eyes. Watch enthusiasts said, “Stick to making bags,” and doubted the Parisian brand’s horological chops. And could you blame them? It was inevitable we’d question whether the maker of the world’s most coveted leather handbags could deliver a genuinely compelling sports watch. Yet […] Visit Hermès Releases Blanc Chantilly And Bleu De Malte Versions Of The H08 to read the full article.
Monochrome
While O&HoraPictor; might be a young brand we only discovered recently, our first experience with one of their watches left us very content with what they have to offer. The brand takes the centuries-old tradition of enamelling and gives it a new spin with fresh textures and colours, at attainable prices. This isn’t a revolutionary […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
At nearly three times the price, does the Oris Aquis really outperform the Mido Ocean Star 200? Our hands-on experience reveals a surprising winner.
Quill & Pad
Blue is a powerful color. It’s the electric cerulean flash of a kingfisher darting across a quiet stream, or the Tiffany-blue hue found in a robin's egg. Beyond their striking color, these things share one thing in common: they belong to the world of flight.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list. This week, we pick five of our favorite recent dive watches. After our roundup of recent field watches, it’s time to focus on another popular category. Oddly, it seems we’re seeing fewer new dive watches, even though they have long been the most popular watch category. Enthusiasts surely haven’t lost interest, […] Visit The Top 5 Recent Dive Watches to read the full article.
Monochrome
Geneva Watch Days is always a treat, but 2026 held two collaboration surprises for the MONOCHROME team, both involving maverick French watchmaker Vianney Halter. Bulgari’s collaboration with Vianney Halter produced a bold Antiqua-inspired Octo Finissimo Dual Time. The second, revealed to us as a sneak preview by Manuel Emch, was Louis Erard’s Futur Antérieur. Marking […]
Fratello
In case you haven’t noticed, the entry point to owning a mechanical watch has become significantly more expensive. The days when you could buy a nice mechanical Hamilton, for instance, or a microbrand watch that would even include a sapphire crystal for around €400 seem gone forever. The entry-level Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38 will […] Visit Could Quartz Save The Swiss Watch Industry? to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
JLC brings its blue lacquer-dial Polaris Date down to 40mm, keeping the 70-hour movement and 200-meter water resistance.More
Monochrome
Our friends at SJX, the Singapore-based watch magazine founded by journalist Su Jiaxian, are back at it with yet another collaboration watch with Habring², the Austrian independent watchmaker (and one of the best-kept secrets on the indie scene). And how can we blame them, as we also did 2 projects with them (MdS1 and MdS4, […]
Monochrome
At just 45 grams in weight, strap included, the Wild ONE Skeleton X-Lite is Norqain’s most advanced sports watch to date. It weighs next to nothing, but it is also built to withstand a proverbial beating if needed. The Norteq case, as well as the movement’s construction, are designed to withstand impacts of at least […]
Worn & Wound
Maybe “trend” was always the wrong way to frame the watch industry’s collective obsession with stone dials? I don’t know about you, but I certainly feel like we might have reached a point where the stone dial is essentially just another colorway. Just as brands are expected to offer dials in blue, black, and white, perhaps we’ve reached that point where it should just be expected that they’ll offer an option (or several) in stone as well. I like the look of a stone dial, but I admit I’m getting quite bored of seeing them invade my inbox on a daily basis. This is the perspective of a guy with a very particular view on all the stone dial action. I’m not a casual observer. I work in the industry and I see, at least to some extent, how the nuts and bolts of the business works, and at the moment brands are simply cashing in on an unprecedented interest in stone (and mother of pearl) dials. Stone dials were never actually “rare” but they felt special before this boom because they were so infrequently used. Access to these dials is now virtually unlimited and, presumably, pretty affordable. So the rush continues, to the point I think where it’s just a static part of our ecosystem. And it’s that environment in which the newest member of the Farer Moonphase collection arrives. This is the Stratton II, the latest edition of what Farer says is their most popular moonphase model. The centerpiece (literally) of the Stratton II is a new moonphase disc made ...
Time+Tide
Norqain introduces the Wild ONE Skeleton X-Lite Turquoise, bringing a vibrant new colourway to its high-tech skeletonised sports watch.
Time+Tide
The Christopher Ward Sealander Yalos introduces four textured dials, a slim 39mm steel case and COSC-certified movement
Monochrome
Glashütte Original’s Senator collection is largely defined by classic German watchmaking conventions and the brand’s signature Panorama Date. However, the manufacture has also used the Senator to showcase its more artistic side, with hand-painted Meissen porcelain dials. Joining the brand’s Atelier commissions is a new time-only duo of Senator models in precious metal cases with […]
Fratello
That subtitle sounds a bit rich, right? Still, there’s some unexpected truth in that statement. Under the leadership of the famous Ernest “Teddy” Schneider in the late 1960s and 1970s, Sicura thrived and introduced a series of watches featuring pin-lever movements and bold designs. Among them were dive watches with patented multi-bezel systems and dual-crown […] Visit Introducing: The Sicura Hexa 400 Sea Green, A Vintage-Inspired Dive Watch With A Dial Like The Ocean to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
The Sartory-Billard SB10 Jumping Hour ‘Disco Ball’ strips away a traditional dial and hands. Instead, it features floating sapphire discs, a massive jumping-hour aperture, and an exposed, engine-turned centerpiece. It’s pure mechanical theatre, delivering bespoke, independent horology for the price of a mass-produced diver.
WatchAdvice
The retro-futuristic lines of the King Seiko VANAC give it character, but does the titanium frame elevate it to modernity? Let’s find out! What We Love: Angular, geometric case Strong but lightweight presence Finishing makes titanium interesting What We Don’t: Accuracy still a touch behind modern standards Thickness could have been toned down Is loud design ostentatious? Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 “A jack of all trades is a master of none, but oftentimes better than a master of one” is one of the most commonplace sentiments of modern life. It governs almost everything, from the clothes we wear and the careers we pursue to the books we read, the media we consume, and the food we eat. In this chapter of modern watchmaking, the sentiment is much the same. We love a watch that can go anywhere and do anything, removing the burden of decision from our already overcomplicated lives. But is the burden of choice really such a bad thing? Is it truly more valuable to have broader appeal than a deeper one? Some say no. Thus, there’s been an uptick in maximalist design principles throughout the watch world. Being good at everything doesn’t have to be the only selling point anymore; Rather, watch designs are turning back towards specialisation in form and function to make for a more compelling case. That’s exactly what Seiko did when they revived the King Seiko VANAC collection in 2025. A model line d...
Worn & Wound
I’ve never claimed to be much of an outdoorsman, but it never hurts to keep a few rugged and utilitarian watches in the watch box. Even a leisurely stroll in a local park can warrant the wear of a tool watch; it feels fitting to be prepped for whatever the outdoors may have in store. The Pulsar 7T62-X084 is a watch few have seen and even fewer have owned. I spent hours hunting down any information I could gather in preparation for this deep dive article, quickly realizing this model is in desperate need of a nickname––a canon event in the life of many Seiko watches. I’d like to coin the “Adventurer” moniker in hopes of making future discourse regarding this watch a bit easier to find in forums and on social media. For all the tool watches Seiko and Pulsar have offered over the years, I was shocked to find that no other model has ever borne that nickname. With its fresh new name picked out, let’s take a deep dive into the X084’s many functions and discover why it’s one of the most underrated Pulsar models the company has ever produced. The Adventurer’s History and Variants Because online information on the X084 is incredibly scarce, I’ll use expired auction listings, blogs, and other assorted photographs to build the most comprehensive history I can. Using Seiko/Pulsar’s serial-number coding methods, most, if not all, of the examples I’ve found were manufactured in 2005. For those unaware, the coding formula doesn’t provide enough information reg...
Hodinkee
"The first two days, almost nobody came to see us. We were very anxious," Carlo Crocco, the founder of Hublot, tells us, casting his mind back to Baselworld in 1980, when he stood in a booth with a single window displaying a single gold-cased watch on a black rubber strap. "On the third day, we realised that everyone was speaking about us, because it was really something different from all the other watches." We are sitting together in Milan on the eve of the Classic Fusion Tributo launch, which Hublot presents as a return to that very first design. After spending time with it in the metal, I would argue the most interesting thing about it is how firmly it refuses to be a reissue. At a time when brands can reproduce their back catalogues down to a 3D-scanned dial, Hublot has presented an evolved expression of its first watch, combining it with a design language that's taken shape over four decades. That decision makes more sense when you consider where Hublot stands today and why this watch is arriving now. Since Julien Tornare took over as CEO in late 2024, the brand has been working through a deliberate reset, investing in its Nyon campus and its movement strategy and reworking the Big Bang twice this year, with Tornare signaling early on that a Classic Fusion built around the Italian elegance of its founder would follow. The two things Crocco focused on for the Tributo, the twelve screws and the black rubber strap, are precisely what make it read as the original at a gl...
Time+Tide
A new kinetic sculpture from Keris that takes the heartbeat of a watch and blows it up to a larger-than-life scale.
Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux released the Laureato collection in 1975 to meet the growing demand for integrated-style sports watches. Debuting just three years after the 1972 blueprint for the genre, it remains one of the earliest examples of a luxury sports watch. Following the classic time-and-date Laureato Fifty released to celebrate the watch’s 50th anniversary in 2025, Girard-Perregaux […]
Worn & Wound
Last month, the Swedish brand E.C. Andersson caught our attention with the release of the Timepod, a funky square watch with a unique detachable lug system. Zach Weiss and I were both pretty taken with it and even discussed at some length on the podcast. This is a brand that is appealing not just for their quality and design aesthetic, but their unique approach to manufacturing and watchmaking, making many components in-house in their own studio, and sometimes coming up with solutions to problems that don’t actually exist (that’s watchmaking in a nutshell in 2026). Their latest effort, the Cpt, is pitched as something a little more traditional than the Timepod or the Mytilus, the watch that initially made me take notice of the brand. The Cpt is described by E.C. Andersson as “Our take on a dress watch, sort of.” That last clause is doing some heavy lifting. This is a watch that straddles stylistic lines between nautical inspiration and midcentury dress watches but clearly retains E.C. Andersson’s core aesthetic, which at this point is pretty well defined by things like dial texture, and the shape of indices, which are more suggestive and abstract than traditional hour markers. The Cpt comes in a compact 36.5mm case that measures 8.5mm tall, not including the boxed sapphire crystal, another hallmark of the brand. The case is designed to be robust yet elegant, and has a full 100 meters of water resistance. In photos, it doesn’t present as a tool watch, and ha...
Hodinkee
For a few years, the general date for the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition has been circled on my calendar. Fall 2026—somewhere in there, I'd have to find a way to visit Milan. I had hoped that I would go as part of my job, of course, but after missing the last exhibition in Tokyo, I knew that, even if I had to go on my own, it would be easier to visit Italy, a place that I feel very attached to thanks to the mentorship of the great Italian collectors and dealers. Luckily, a press preview was in the cards, and now that the event is wrapped up (it ran from October 2 to the 18th), I wanted to bring the experience to those who couldn't attend. One of the great parts about the Grand Exhibitions, this one being the seventh, is that the brand opens them to the public for free, bringing the history and savoir-faire of watchmaking to a new market at each show. While those of us in the industry get to see things like enameling demonstrations or movement construction as part of our jobs, the Watch Art Grand Exhibition brings that to life for those who aren't as lucky. More than that, Patek Philippe goes so far as to organize school trips from the local market, helping bring the craft to life for children. Patek Philippe's President Thierry Stern and his 24-year-old son Adrien Stern, who has worked at the company for 18 months and was touted (multiple times) by Thierry Stern as his successor alongside his youngest son. Stern repeatedly emphasized that Patek Philippe woul...
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