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Revolution
The new line-up consists of rose gold, white gold with a diamond-set bezel and two fully paved versions with cases and, most impressively, movements that are set with up to 573 brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds.
SJX Watches
Rolex has released new references of the Cosmograph Daytona with meteorite dials, in each colour of gold as well as the option of a bracelet or silicon Oysterflex strap. The versions on Oysterflex are matched with a black ceramic bezel, while the bracelet models featured gold bezels. Initial Thoughts Meteorite dials on Rolex watches are not new – the meteorite dial with Roman numerals made its debut on the Daytona almost two decades ago – and the current lineup includes features both the Day-Date and GMT-Master II with meteorite dials. The meteorite dials will be available in all three colours of gold (from left): Everose, white, and yellow gold The new arrivals are essentially a modest facelift – they share the same case, bezel, and mechanics as current gold Daytona – albeit one that is very well done. They are certainly eye-catching, especially combined with high-contrast black registers (the first-generation meteorite dials had matching meteorite registers). The new look is fairly priced. Depending on the case metal and choice of bracelet, expect to pay a premium of 10-15% over a standard gold Daytona model. Exotic dials Made of a slice of iron meteorite, the dial is first etched with acid to highlight the Widmanstätten pattern, the streaky motif created by the crystalline structure of the material, and then polished. But it still retains a slightly textured surface, unlike the perfectly smooth lacquered finished of most Daytona dials. As is conventional for...
Revolution
Tudor continues to celebrate 50 years of its Chronograph this year with a reworked Black Bay Chrono Steel in a new dial design and bezel style that harks back to the brands Big Block era.
SJX Watches
Twenty-twenty one sees Rolex revamp both its Explorer references, just in time for the 50th anniversary of the model. The new Explorer II ref. 226570 gets a new movement, while preserving the familiar style of previous model, the ref. 216570 that was launched exactly a decade ago. That means a second time zone hand in orange; fixed, brushed steel bezel; a largish, 42 mm case; and a white or black dial. While the new Explorer II is similar to its predecessor in terms of aesthetics – though the case is slimmed slightly and bracelet widened – it is powered by the cal. 3285, one of the latest-generation Rolex movement. Initial thoughts The new Explorer II is a major technical update thanks to the new movement, but in terms of look and feel, it is likely indistinguishable from its predecessor. Anyone who was a fan of the preceding model – this is a superior version of the same because the new movement is substantially better. But for those who thought the 42 mm case was too wide, it’s still 42 mm, albeit with redesigned lugs to make it slightly narrower. I find the 42 mm case a bit too big, but the version with the “polar” white dial has long been a favourite, and the new movement makes it more appealing, notwithstanding the case. For what it costs at retail the Explorer II is an excellent buy – as most Rolex watches are – though it’ll probably be tough to land one for now. Nips and tucks The Explorer II has a 42 mm case made of Oystersteel, which Rolex’s o...
Deployant
Greubel Forsey delights with a new extension to the GMT Sport line, with a model with a blue accented movement and new bezel and finishes.
Time+Tide
Apple now sells more watches than the entire Swiss watch industry. But not satisfied with its extraordinary dominance, the brand is now reportedly looking to expand its watch portfolio. The company has explored many materials, including aluminum, titanium, stainless steel, ceramics, and even 18K gold. Throughout these designs their case profile has remained largely unchanged, … ContinuedThe post Apple set to release a more rugged Apple Watch Explorer Edition to compete with G-Shock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
TAG adds to their successful chronograph tourbillon line with a new Heuer 02T model with a solid blue dial. blue ceramic bezel in titanium case and bracelet.
SJX Watches
A longtime fan favourite, the modern-day Alpinist is synonymous with a forest-green dial and inner rotating bezel. But the origins of the model date to 1959, when Seiko introduced the first Alpinist as part of the Laurel brand. Today’s Alpinist has evolved a long way from the original, but now Seiko has returned the watch to its roots with a “re-creation” of the 1959 design. The 1959 Alpinist Re-creation is a somewhat faithful remake of the first Alpinist that was conceived as no-frills watch for mountaineers. At the same time, Seiko is also unveiling the simpler and more affordable The 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-interpretation. The vintage original of 1959 Initial thoughts Because it’s very much a mid-20th century design, the Alpinist reissues have a good blend of sportiness and elegance. The round cases are compact, giving them a slightly a dressy feel, but the dials are simple and legible, along with a more-than-capable watch case with substantial water resistance. The best thing about the watch is its design, which is minimalist but not plain. The markers are oversized and slightly decorative, and matched with a minute track that evokes a sector dial. Just 36.6 mm wide, the Re-creation is particularly good looking with its symmetrical layout and deep, glossy black finish. It also avoids the faux-vintage colour palette, resulting in a look that is retro but refreshingly modern. That said, its date window is squeezed between four and five o’clock, which is a l...
Deployant
The new Sinn U50 S is at its heart the same dive watch like the U1 but thinner and smaller than before. As part of the U50 range, it comes in a PVD coated U50 S variant as shown here, or a regular steel colored U50 and the U50 SDR, steel case with contrasting PVD bezel.
Time+Tide
No, not another GMT?! Well, what if we tell you that this is a 39mm piece of vintage-inspired perfection with a goldilocks-sized 38mm case and a slightly wider bezel. And that its colours are as F.R.E.S.H as only the French can make them. If you know Baltic already, you might say that this is a … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Was the Baltic Aquascaphe GMT the freshest microbrand travel watch of 2020? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Pros: Graduated shades of intense blues on the dialA real joy to see the redesigned calibre 899 on the case back ISO 6425 complaint proper ‘diving’ watch Cons: Some may not be fans of the screw-in internal Bezel 42mm case size will wear large on wrists smaller than 6.5 inchesSome may find it pricey Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8.5/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 Reference : 9068180 Late last year in October 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Polaris Mariner for their Polaris collection. The Polaris Mariner is a range of high-performing diving watches that pay homage to the brand’s diving legacy and almost 100 years of knowledge and expertise on chiming watches. Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced two watches to their sporty and elegant Polaris collection; the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Polaris Mariner Date. What we have on our hands today is the classic diving piece the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date. Case: Reference : 9068180 The case on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date is as close as it gets to the vintage 1968 Memovox Polaris. This 1968 model was the first true diving watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre, which included an internal rotating bezel, an alarm, and a triple-layer case-back for better sound transmission. With the latest Polaris Mariner Date model, the alarm and sound transmission mechanisms have been left out for the Memovox model, with the Mariner Date being the simple yet classic diving...
Time+Tide
IWC make some incredible watches and are particularly known for their pilot creations with their crisp and highly legible dials. The IWC Timezoner is one such watch with a large case and dial, 24-hour time display and corresponding world timer rotating bezel. The watch, in its standard production configuration, is actually a chronograph – with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Enjoy a vicarious travel experience through the IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Edition “Le Petit Prince” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
One of the most intuitive and user-friendly GMTs in the market, the IWC Timezoner offers an incredible bezel-set GMT system originally developed by watchmaker Michael Vogt. The Timezoner “Le Petit Prince” edition stands out for a dynamic mix of utilitarian design and stylistic flair.
Time+Tide
From classic Coke to the freshness of the Pepsi's iconic red and blue bezel, picking the ultimate Rolex GMT master was a tough challenge.The post Battle Royale: Let’s get ready to rumble! Which is the ultimate Rolex GMT-Master? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Just announced as an exclusive for Seiko’s longtime distributor in several Asian countries, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT “Champagne Diamond” SBGE267G is a variation on Grand Seiko’s longstanding Spring Drive GMT sports watch with its characteristic sapphire-covered bezel and sloping case flanks. Dressed in richer colours than the black or blue of the typical Grand Seiko sports watch, the SBGE267G has a dial rendered in metallic brown that’s matched with yellow gold-plated hands and indices. Executed in steel, the SBGE267G is powered by the 9R66 Spring Drive movement that has a second time zone function. And it’s an edition of 140 pieces meant for five countries, making it a fairly small run relative to other recent Grand Seiko limited editions. Initial thoughts Over the last couple of years, Grand Seiko has rolled out a variety of limited editions in a diversity of dial colours, but the SBGE267G still manages to be be different. Its look is distinctly more luxe than the standard Spring Drive GMT – the chestnut brown employed for the dial is unusual for Grand Seiko and striking, particularly combined with the gilt hands and markers. The brushed metallic dial surface catches the light nicely In the usual Grand Seiko fashion, the quality of the watch is excellent, with the dial and hands being especially outstanding for a watch of this price. Fabricated with a diamond-tipped tool, the hour markers and hands all have razor-sharp edges and near-mirrored su...
SJX Watches
Having made its three years ago with the affordable, vintage-inspired HMS and Bicompax – like many other brands in the segment – Baltic soon expanded its catalogue to include a similarly retro dive watch (and just last week an edition for Dubai retailer Perpétuel). And now the dive watch gets second time zone function with the launch of the Aquascaphe GMT. Introduced in three variants – with the most striking being the version with an orange and blue bezel – the Aquascaphe GMT is very much modelled on 1950s “big crown” dive watches, but with a sapphire-covered bezel and Swiss-made Soprod movement. Initial thoughts The Aquascaphe GMT continues to play to the strengths of Baltic, a French brand that manages good, vintage-inspired design in a a compact package, and at a modest price. Admittedly, such vintage-inspired watches are not particularly original, but they are have appeal, particularly since modern construction give them a practicality and robustness that the vintage originals lack. Credit goes to Baltic in giving the new GMT enough character to make it reasonably original. For instance, the 24-hour bezel is offered in interesting combinations of colours that are not the usual “Pepsi” or “Coke”, from a restrained grey and blue to a vibrant blue and orange. The rest of the GMT is similar to the original Aquascaphe dive watch, which means a handsome, compact case with good enough finishing for the price. But the GMT does diverge from the time-o...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A transformation in my mind began. At first glance you notice that all-too-familiar case shape, but once you start looking at the dial, the bezel, the way the chapter ring is brushed a little rougher, almost like reclaimed metal, you get this real sense of the great American pocket watch.
SJX Watches
Originally introduced in pricier precious metals – in gold and also platinum – the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel has been given a makeover that renders it more affordable, and arguably more striking. And like last year’s time-only Slim d’Hermès, the key feature is a titanium case. The new perpetual calendar features a twin-metal case made up of a titanium middle along with the bezel, crown, and pushers in either rose gold or platinum. That, combined with the two-tone grey dial, gives it a modern look that goes well with the Slim d’Hermès font that was designed specifically for the model. The Slim d’Hermes font was created by graphic designer Philippe Apeloig to go with the eponymous watch Initial thoughts Hermes’ house style is always elegant, often quirky, and usually distinctive. Already the Slim d’Hermes design is slim and wears well, and probably slightly better in this iteration since the use of titanium would reduce reduce its weight. A simple design characterised by clean lines, the Slim d’Hermes is recognisable in all its iterations thanks to its smart details, like the angled lugs and custom typography. Though the layout of the perpetual calendar is fairly conventional – everything is arranged into four sub-dials – it manages to be slightly unusual thanks to the seemingly random armament of numerals for the second time zone at six, a minor, offbeat detail that is in keeping with the brand’s style. The titanium-and-platinum versi...
SJX Watches
Conceived to mark the brand’s 10th anniversary, the “X” series of watches is a quartet of models that started with the Type 1 Slim X, and now continues with the brand-new Type 5X Automobili Amos. Equipped with a bezel to measure turbocharged engine warming and cooling times, the Type 5X is the result of a collaboration between Ressence and Italian race-car driver Eugenio Amos. Husband to a member of the Missoni fashion dynasty, Mr Amos’ namesake company is best known for the Lancia Delta Futurista “restomod”, a race car based on the 1980s Lancia Delta, a car famous for dominating the World Rally Championship in the late 1980s. The concept is similar to what Singer Vehicle Design is doing for the Porsche 911 (specifically the 964 of the early 1990s); Singer, as it happens, has its own line of wristwatches. Initial thoughts The Type 5X is a good-looking variation of the standard Type 5. The tweaks to the typography, colours, and bezel are attractive. But it has a narrow appeal, basically car enthusiasts who appreciate the history of the Lancia Delta and that era of automobile racing. Because it costs not much more than the standard model, the Type 5X is probably a no brainer for anyone who does appreciate that history. But for anyone else it is a bit too esoteric. The Lancia Delta Futurista More broadly, the strengths and weaknesses of the Type 5X are the same as those of the standard model. The watch is ingenious, inventive, and truly unique, while possessing e...
Deployant
Ressence partners with Eugenio Amos, founder of Automobili Amos to create a new bezel design for their Type 5 which relates to the Lancia Delta Futurista. Ressence Type 5X Short Pitch about the watch. Second 10th anniversary piece in the Ressence collection X. Limited to 40 pieces. Motoring focused creation related to the passage ofRead More
SJX Watches
Originally founded in 1962 to capitalise on the popularity of leisure diving at the time, Aquastar specialised in making diving instruments and notched up several patents, such as a “no-decompression” bezel. But like the rest of the Swiss watch industry in the 1970s, the Aquastar suffered during the Quartz Crisis and faded away, although it never really died. Now it’s been resurrected and makes it debut with, unsurprisingly, a vintage remake with the Deepstar Chronograph. Initial thoughts The Deepstar is obviously a watch of the 1960s, with the angular, tonneau-shaped case and dial design giving away its origins. The retro-diver look is now back in vogue, which was no doubt a reason behind the revival of the brand. And the popularity of the design is for good reason. It is clean and attractive, and unusual compared to today’s dive watches (although vintage remakes are increasingly common). The vintage Deepstar All of the best elements of the vintage original are found on the remake, including the oversized, “big eye” minute register. And though it’s larger than the 37 mm original – a necessity due to the La Joux-Perret movement inside – the remake is 40.5 mm, smallish by today’s standards, which means it still retains the vintage feel. Aside from the true-to-original grey dial, the Deepstar is also offered in black and blue, with an “early-bird” price of US$2,790 (which rises to US$3,590 after the initial run of 300 pieces in each colour). The pre-...
Hodinkee
A green dial and bezel for a tough diver's chrono.
Deployant
Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer was first released in Baselworld 2009 with two versions – white and rose gold with silver dials. In Baselworld 2016, the watch was updated with a blue in-house manufactured dial. The 2020 version now comes with a new case design, noticeably the bezel and a differently finished movement.
SJX Watches
Longines’ momentum with retro timepieces continues with the new Heritage Military Marine Nationale. The new remake is clean and legible, just like its inspiration, which was made for the French Navy in 1947. The vintage original, the ref. 5774, was an instrument for shallow diving – albeit one without the familiar rotating bezel of a diver’s watch that wouldn’t be invented until the 1950s. Consequently, it was a clean and legible watch, and so does the vintage reissue. Initial thoughts The Marine Nationale recreates the feel of the original quite well, despite being substantially larger. That’s accomplished by retaining the proportions of the original, as well as smaller but important details, like the shape of the seconds hand and the vintage logo on the dial. And thankfully there is no date to ruin the symmetrical dial. Like most of Longines’ other remakes, the appeal of the Marine Nationale lies in its affordable price of US$2,000, which is strong value especially given the upgraded ETA movement within. The only weakness of the Marine Nationale – especially given it is a remake of a dive watch – is the minimal water resistance of just 30 m. Subtle reworking At 38.5 mm wide, the Marine Nationale is relatively small by modern standards, even though it has been significantly enlarged from its original’s 33 mm diameter. That said, the size of the remake is good, especially coupled with the relatively thick case, which preserves the proportions of the ori...
Deployant
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe model now comes in a version combining a blue dial and bezel with a Sedna® gold case.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Zodiac releases a new colorway of the Super Sea Wolf GMT that looks good enough to eat. The 24 hour bezel is a 50/50 split of sherbet orange and cream resembling an iconic frozen treat.
Revolution
Richard Mille adds a sixth chapter to their widely beloved family of chronographs with the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT that has its bezel made of Cermet
Deployant
Seiko prospex PADI Monster SRPE27K1 is the latest addition to the popular 'Monster' line, now with an attractive metallic blue bezel.
Deployant
Blancpain adds 8 novelties to the Villeret Ultraplat 38mm collection. In steel or red gold case, with and without diamond bezel and alligator or bracelet.
SJX Watches
While the vast majority of watch content on Instagram is predictable and repetitive – hello Nautilus with baguette gemstone bezel and Submariner “Hulk” – there are a couple of collectors with interesting watches who share their collections on the picture-sharing app. The most interesting for me are the independent-watchmaking enthusiasts. Most own watches that well known and regarded as landmarks in the genre – Philippe Dufour Simplicity, F.P. Journe tourbillon, Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain, and the like – but many also have watches further off the beaten track, like Keaton Myrick’s 1 in 30 or the Bexei grande sonnerie. Here are a few independent-watchmaking collectors who are worth a follow. @igwatchlover – A collector based on Southeast Asia, Igwatchlover features his own watches, as well as occasionally watches owned by his friends – who are also accomplished collectors. Amongst the watches that can be found on his account is the unique and elaborate Voutilainen Starry Night Vine, and the Vox Vinum grande sonnerie by Aaron Becsei, and the one-off, regulator-dial minute repeater by Voutilainen. And he also features a good number of notable complicated watches from the 1990s, which are overlooked today but often just as interesting as the latest creations. @horoptimist – A longtime collector who only started his Instagram account recently, Horoptimist is based in Asia but has managed to visit several independent watchmakers in their home count...
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