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Results for Caliber B01

616 articles · 60 videos found · page 21 of 23

Alarm Watches: A Complete Guide to the Most Underappreciated Watch Com Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 4, 2024

Alarm Watches: A Complete Guide to the Most Underappreciated Watch Com

If we're ranking watch styles by everyday practicality, it's hard to beat the alarm watch. Most of us are regularly needing reminders of appointments, events, and other commitments, and to have the source of such audible alerts right on your wrist, rather than buried in a pocket or a handbag, would seem to be the height of practicality even in today's high-tech world. Around the middle of the 20th Century, many watchmakers agreed and began to embrace the style, but alarm watches never achieved anywhere near the widespread popularity of other complications like chronographs and GMTs. Nevertheless, the alarm watch has played a significant role in horological history, and a handful of important brands have not only been instrumental in its creation and development but continue to rely on it as a major pillar of their collections today. Here is the story of how the mechanical alarm watch came to be, how it became a signature style of certain watchmakers, and how it continues to evolve today despite its niche status in the industry.  Johannes Dürrstein, regarded as the inventor of the alarm watch  Watches with alarm functions go back farther into horological history than most probably realize. Johannes Dürrsstein, a watchmaker in Glashütte, Germany, invented the first mass-produced, alarm-equipped pocket watch caliber in 1900. Dürrstein’s invention used an extra-long mainspring that could fuel both the timekeeping and the independent alarm hand, which was activated by a...

Grand Seiko Celebrates a Big Spring Drive Anniversary with a Pair of Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Celebrates Aug 30, 2024

Grand Seiko Celebrates a Big Spring Drive Anniversary with a Pair of Limited Editions

How long would it take you to invent an entirely new kind of watch movement? Five years? Ten years? If your answer was 27 years, you’d be on the right track. That’s how long it took the Spring Drive movement to go from idea to reality at Seiko. Initially conceived of by Yoshikazu Akahane in the 1970s, the development of the Spring Drive movement grew out of efforts to solve problems endemic to early quartz movements, though the project would not bear fruit until Baselworld 1999 when the first trio of Spring Drive watches was released to the public (something Akahane would, tragically, not live to see). Five years later, Spring Drive would finally reach Grand Seiko with the introduction of the 9R series of movements in 2004. 20 years later, the 9R series of Spring Drive calibers remain a core pillar of the Grand Seiko catalog, and GS is ready to celebrate that anniversary with the introduction of two profoundly autumnal limited editions. Each of these limited releases is powered by a Grand Seiko 9R series movement and each is inspired by the fiery red tones found throughout the Hotaka mountain range come fall. First up, we have the SBGY035, driven by a hand-wound Caliber 9R31 Spring Drive movement. Similar in execution and design to the popular SBGY007 Omiwatari, this thin dress watch claims inspiration from the vibrant leaves that coat the landscape of Hotaka each fall. An ombré finish made up of deep red tones is paired with a textured dial, and is accented by sparin...

eBay Finds: A Pair of Great Vintage Omegas, A Collectible Swatch, and a (Possibly) Issued Military Watch Worn & Wound
Omega s Aug 2, 2024

eBay Finds: A Pair of Great Vintage Omegas, A Collectible Swatch, and a (Possibly) Issued Military Watch

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Seamaster  Going to start off this week with a nice vintage Omega Seamaster with the classic ‘fat lugs’ case. The seller states the case is 38mm, but that must include the original clover leaf Omega signed crown, making the case about 35mm, which sounds right. The whole watch exhibits some wabi sabi, but this survivor looks original and genuine to me. There is some patina on the two-tone bullseye dial and the steel dauphine hands, but if you’re a fan of that look this might just be for you. So often Seamasters like this are polished and redialed, which is such a shame. This one has a caliber 354 bumper automatic that looks clean and the seller states it runs. Really a nice, genuine and unmolested example of the classic 1950’s Seamaster. View auction here Swatch “Lancelot” Vintage Swatches must be making a comeback because I keep seeing them for sale! What a fantastic piece of 1980’s nostalgia they are. This model is the Lancelot from 1986, and it’s in great original condition. Complete with the original band and box. Seller states it has a new battery and runs well. If you’re a Gen X’er like me, these bring back so many memories! Neon clothes, spiky ...

Bulova Precisionist: The Most Underrated Movement in the Watch Industr Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Aug 1, 2024

Bulova Precisionist: The Most Underrated Movement in the Watch Industr

Newcomers to the watch appreciation game can be forgiven for reflexively, and solely, crediting the Japanese with bringing electronics into the mainstream of the watch industry, but the embryonic phase of the technology took place in the United States. And the most accurate electronic movement on the market today emerged from the synergy between one of America's most historic home-grown watch manufacturers and one of Japan's most innovative pioneers of timekeeping technology. It's called the Precisionist, it's exclusive to Bulova, and while you may not have heard of it or know much about it, it's becoming a fixture in several Bulova watches that increasingly demand enthusiast attention. Bulova, founded in New York City in 1875 by Bohemian immigrant Joseph Bulova, was one of the first watchmakers in the world to seriously explore the development of electronics in wristwatch movements. In 1960, just a few years after another American watch manufacturer, Hamilton, had introduced its flawed but groundbreaking electric-powered Ventura (more on that here), Bulova unveiled its own high-tech timepiece, the Accutron Spaceview 214. The watch took its numerical designation from its movement, Caliber 214, a revolutionary mechanism in which the balance wheel, which drives the timekeeping in a mechanical movement, was replaced by a tuning fork, powered by a one-transistor electronic oscillator. This system ensured an oscillation rate of 360 hertz - nearly 150 times faster than tha...

A New Dial Color for the Nomos Ahoi Worn & Wound
Nomos Ahoi German watchmaker NOMOS Jul 25, 2024

A New Dial Color for the Nomos Ahoi

German watchmaker NOMOS Glashütte has just released their latest Ahoi Neomatik 38 collection. Alongside Sky and Sand, we now have the Atlantic colorway. Inspired by the outdoor culture of seaside and island life, the Ahoi Neomatik 38 series combines sporty elements with a distinctive, sophisticated style.  Like others in the series, the Atlantic focuses on functionality without compromising on design. For swimming, diving, or sailing, legibility is key and this reference has large, readable numbers in an almost Art Deco font. The deep blue dial against the contrasting indices and hands aren’t just a great design choice, they also help to tell time in a variety of conditions while out at sea. Further to this, the hours and minutes are coated in Super-LumiNova to assist in low-light areas, such as during dives in open waters. The mixture of yellow hour markers, a red seconds hand, blue-black woven strap, and the 38.5mm stainless steel case all show a cohesive design language in the newAtlantic variant. The Atlantic runs on a NOMOS Neomatik caliber DUW 6101 with a 42-hour power reserve. This movement has a quick-set date function, which can be found at 3 o’clock. Given the aquatic inspiration for this watch, NOMOS has designed the case to be water resistant for up to 200 meters (20 atm).  Two references of this watch are available – the 518 and 528. The 518 has a stainless steel case back, while the 528 has a sapphire crystal case back. Both versions are available no...

Oris Releases a New Divers Sixty-Five with a “Forest Green” Dial Worn & Wound
Oris Releases Jun 26, 2024

Oris Releases a New Divers Sixty-Five with a “Forest Green” Dial

Another week, another green Oris Divers Sixty-Five. Just six days ago, Oris unveiled what could possibly be the ideal, enthusiast focused version of the Divers Sixty-Five. That model has a versatile 38mm case, the brand’s high-spec manufacture movement, no date, and a dial in a color that’s very much of the current moment. The new(er) reference has some on-the-surface similarities, but the details will likely make this one appeal to a very different customer. That’s part of what makes Oris such a compelling brand for both new and old enthusiasts and collectors, though – there’s an incredible variety, and truly something for every taste, even within a single collection.  What we have here is a 40mm Divers Sixty-Five with a green dial that Oris says is inspired by the dense forests that surround the company’s original factory in Hölstein. The tone here has a subtle fumé effect, reading as a light, almost pastel green at the dial’s center, transitioning into something more lush and quite a bit darker at the outer edges.  With the slightly larger case, we also get a date at the 6:00 position, a function of the Oris Calibre 733 movement that powers the watch. This movement is a rebadged Sellita and offers 41 hours of power reserve. Oris deserves credit, I think, for continuing to produce interesting variants of the Divers Sixty-Five with this more affordable but completely respectable workhorse caliber. Many brands, after introducing a new caliber family like ...

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Worn & Wound
Citizen Jun 12, 2024

Get Personal and Purposeful with the Father’s Day Gift Guide from Citizen

With Father’s Day right around the corner, it’s a good time to reflect about what it is we love about our dads, grandpas, and chosen family. They show up for us at our low points and help celebrate our highs. With the seasons heating up (at least on this half of the hemisphere), Father’s Day can be a great time to get outside with the dads in your life and show them you appreciate what you have built together. In honor of dads, Citizen and Worn & Wound put together a Father’s Day themed gift guide, featuring purposeful and powerful gifts to celebrate your relationships and the endless possibilities you can achieve because of them. For a Dad that’s not like all the other dads, give him a watch that stands out in a crowd. The newest addition to the stylish “Tsuyosa” automatics collection, the “Tsuyosa” Small Second brings an impressive amount of sophistication in a sleek 40mm footprint. With a silver-tone stainless steel case and quickly-interchangeable bracelet, the watch can dress up and down for any occasion. The recessed 4 o’clock crown position keeps additional focus on the robust dial which includes a textured pattern, a contrasting 6 o’clock seconds counter, and additional silver-tone details to keep the watch seamlessly attractive. With an in-house Citizen Caliber 8322 movement capable of a 60-hour power reserve, the “Tsuyosa” is available in Gray, Green, or Blue starting at $550. The post Get Personal and Purposeful with the Father’s Day ...

Seiko Expands their Astron Range with a Pair of Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Seiko Expands their Astron Range Jun 11, 2024

Seiko Expands their Astron Range with a Pair of Limited Editions

Seiko has recently released two references in their Astron GPS Solar collection. Both models, highlighting the beauty of the night sky, showcase not only the ever-evolving design elements of Seiko, but also the technical prowess of the Japanese brand. First on the list is the Seiko Astron SSH157J1, which has a classic design where the color choices for this watch can really pop. The titanium case is offset by a black ceramic bezel which, in turn, is complemented by the transparent light-blue molded dial, designed to reflect the starry sky and changes depending on the wearer’s wrist position.  The watch is equipped with a dual-curved sapphire crystal, providing clarity and scratch resistance. And at 43.3 mm, it’s a watch with presence that would still be great as part of your daily rotation. In contrast, the Seiko Astron SSJ027J1 is a bit more contemporary. Geometric cases have become more popular over the years and this reference is no exception, showing how a new design can be eye-catching without looking too ostentatious. The SSJ027J1 combines the same colorway as the SSH157J1 (titanium, light-blue, and black) in a more subtle way. This watch clocks in at 41.2mm, giving it some presence on the wrist as well. The SSH157J1 is powered by the Caliber 5X53 GPS Solar movement, which means the watch can adjust to the exact time anywhere in the world using GPS signals that the watch connects to throughout the day. The watch also features a perpetual calendar, automatic time...

Vertex Commemorates D-Day with the M36 Worn & Wound
Casio n May 20, 2024

Vertex Commemorates D-Day with the M36

This coming June 6 marks the 80th anniversary of D-Day. Vertex, the UK based watch brand headed by Don Cochrane, supplied 1,776 watches to British forces on D-Day, and to commemorate the occasion the brand has released a new reference. The M36 feels very much like a watch that Vertex could have produced at any time, but it makes particular sense in the context of the D-Day anniversary. It’s impossible to look at a watch in this style (and these proportions) from a brand with the history of Vertex and not think about the past.  The M36 was conceived as a watch that would borrow significantly from vintage military issued timepieces. To a certain extent, all Vertex watches do this. It’s in the brand’s DNA and is inescapable in the watches they make. But the M36 goes a few steps further. The case, for one, is a compact 36mm in size, which is true to the vintage watches that Vertex would have supplied, and makes the new watch a solid option for virtually anyone today. The sapphire crystal is box shaped as opposed to domed, which gives it an additional layer of vintage charm, and the straightforward dial layout with large Arabic numerals and a railroad minutes track are right in line with WWII era watches.  The watch runs on a workhorse automatic Sellita caliber and is equipped with an anti-magnetic Nivarox hairspring. The crown screws down, and provides 100 meters of water resistance. There’s also plenty of molded X1 Super-LumiNova on the dial, which if it glows anyth...

Norqain Doubles Down on Its Wild One Collection with New Colorways and an Innovative Platform Where You Can Create a Custom Model Worn & Wound
Norqain Doubles Down Apr 12, 2024

Norqain Doubles Down on Its Wild One Collection with New Colorways and an Innovative Platform Where You Can Create a Custom Model

When it comes to ones to watch, Norqain definitely makes the list. In the past year in particular, its momentum seems to be steadily growing. Right now, the brand is notching its first Watches & Wonders, and just ahead of the show, seasoned collector Mark Wahlberg was spotted rocking the Wild One Skeleton all around town-I’d say this gives Norqain some serious street cred. Last week, the brand also shared some pretty exciting news: three-time Grand Slam-winning tennis champion Stan Wawrinka is now an invested partner in the company, and he inspired two new versions of the popular Wild One Skeleton. In addition, Norqain has doubled down on the collection, unveiling a totally new platform where you can create your very own piece unique Wild One.  You’ll recall when Norqain’s Wild One got the skeleton treatment last year. The new configuration offered the benefit of a reimagined dial revealing the COSC-certified Caliber N08S (Sellita SW200-1 S c) movement but still fell a bit short in terms of legibility. Still, the model delivered on performance thanks to the brand’s proprietary, ultra-lightweight, rigid, and durable carbon fiber derived NORTEQ material that makes up a large portion of the case body and can withstand shocks up to 5,000g. This feature was a major draw for Wawrinka, who put the turquoise variation to the test on the court at the U.S. Open last year and now brings us two new colorways fit for the upcoming Grand Slam season: a bright coral iteration f...

Norqain is Ready for Spring with Pastel Shades for the Freedom 60 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Norqain Apr 2, 2024

Norqain is Ready for Spring with Pastel Shades for the Freedom 60 Chronograph

Swiss watchmaker Norqain has just released the colorful Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm collection. Showcasing three colorways, this collection is inspired by the idyllic charm of Tuscany, capturing the essence of la dolce vita, mixed with the precision and design elements for which Norqain is known. Each watch in the collection features a 316L stainless steel case in the now familiar Freedom 60 silhouette that evokes classic sports watches from the past. With a diameter of 40mm and a thickness of 14.90mm, these timepieces strike the perfect balance of having presence on the wrist without too much additional bulk.  The Freedom 60 Chrono 40 mm collection is available in three new pastel color options: Sky Blue, Pistachio, and Peach, each dial reminiscent of one’s favorite gelateria. Each dial has a darker complementary sub-dial, outer ring, and tachymeter scale to tie the everything  together. An anthracite Norqain logo and black counters at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock add depth to the dial, while diamond-cut flat indexes ensure readability in a variety of lighting conditions. The color matched date window, positioned between 4 and 5 o’clock, adds a practical complication, while diamond-cut faceted hour and minute hands, filled with Superluminova, enhance visibility in low-light environments. The Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm collection is powered by the mechanical Norqain caliber N19 (a modified Sellita SW510), offering 62 hours of power reserve.  Watches are offered in three strap varie...

eBay Finds: A Colorful NOS Swatch, a Classic Omega, and a Military Issued CWC Worn & Wound
Omega Mar 29, 2024

eBay Finds: A Colorful NOS Swatch, a Classic Omega, and a Military Issued CWC

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Constellation Vintage Omega Constellations are highly sought after, especially the classic pie-pan dial with dog leg lugs like this sweet 1966 example. The steel case is in great shape, even though it’s likely felt the touch of a polishing wheel. The dog leg lugs still show their chamfers and the observatory medallion on the back is nice and clear. The silver pie-pan dial looks original and is in excellent condition. The caliber 561 Chronometer movement is clean and runs well per the seller. It comes on an original Omega beads of rice bracelet, but I don’t think it is original to this watch. Overall very clean example of a very desirable vintage Omega. View auction here Squale Sigel Diver  Next up is a rare vintage Squale Medium diver. This example is a Squale Sigel, with black dial and two-tone acrylic bezel insert. This Medium Squale case is 34mm wide, with a slightly asymmetrical shape. The case shows some honest wear, but nothing bad. The black dial has some patina on the lume and hands, as well as on the two-tone acrylic bezel insert. That said, vintage Squale divers are hard to find and always in demand by collectors. This one even has the correct ‘Von’ si...

Seiko Launches a New Crop of Astrons for a Big Anniversary Worn & Wound
Seiko Launches Mar 26, 2024

Seiko Launches a New Crop of Astrons for a Big Anniversary

This year marks the 100th anniversary of the Seiko brand. Now I know, you’re saying, “Hey Griffin, didn’t Seiko celebrate its 110th anniversary last year?” Well, yes. And no. It’s complicated, okay? Alright, it’s not that complicated. The brand that would become Seiko was founded in 1881 by Kintarō Hattori. They released their first pocket watch - the Timekeeper - in 1895 and they followed that up with their first wristwatch - the Laurel - in 1913. Last year’s celebrations marked the 110th anniversary of that watch. This year’s centenary celebration commemorates the first time the name Seiko was used on a watch dial, something which didn’t happen until 1924, and Seiko has promised nine limited edition watches as part of that celebration. True to that effort, we’ve already seen a recreation of the 1924 Seiko watch released as part of the Presage lineup, alongside special editions of the 62MAS-inspired Marinemaster and Prospex divers, and a new version of the Speedtimer. Now Seiko is bringing the Astron to the party and releasing a brand new model with a never-before-seen combination of features and complications. Leading the pack is the aforementioned SSH156 Astron GPS Solar Kintarō Hattori Limited Edition, a bold black and gold-tone titanium multi-time zone chronograph with an integrated bracelet and full Astron Solar capability. The watch is powered by the all-new Caliber 5X83 movement, the first Seiko Astron movement to include a subdial at ...

Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir Reteam for a New Addition to the Masterpiece Collection Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Mar 19, 2024

Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir Reteam for a New Addition to the Masterpiece Collection

Swiss brand Maurice Lacroix, in collaboration with Label Noir, unveils the latest iteration of its Masterpiece Skeleton, the Masterpiece Skeleton Label Noir. While many in the industry may be getting collab fatigue, it’s hard to deny that this new release isn’t the perfect example of a partnership done right: each party leaning on the other’s strength to make something truly impressive.   Building upon the success of their previous collaboration on the AIKON model in 2020, Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir join forces again to recreate the magic that was this original release. The Masterpiece Skeleton Label Noir pushes the boundaries of design even further for Maurice Lacroix, showcasing that a well-crafted timepiece can, at times, venture outside the box to make something that expands the brand’s identity in new ways. With the Masterpiece Skeleton, Maurice Lacroix pays homage to skeleton watches while embracing modern technology. In particular, the Masterpiece Skeleton uses both CNC and CAD technology to bring a level of minute detail to their eye-catching design. In doing so, Maurice Lacroix’s artisans have produced a product in which every detail of the movement is both precise and reliable, while still maintaining its captivating filigreed appearance.   The mechanical movement of the Masterpiece Skeleton is the Manufacture ML134 caliber, adorned with Grand Colimaçon, sand-blasted finishing and bridges with polished edges. As with all Maurice Lacroix watches, ...

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Mar 12, 2024

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Guide

In their relatively short tenure on the international market, Seiko’s Presage “Cocktail Time” watches have already established themselves in the minds of many enthusiasts as one of the watch industry’s very best value prospects in the realm of automatic dress watches - boasting in-house movements, high-end finishing, and the colorful dials that lend them their nicknames, each inspired by concoctions from Japan’s world-famous high-end cocktail bars. Here is a guide to the Seiko “Cocktail Time,” with highlights and milestones from the modern collection. Happy Hour in Japan Seiko served up the first round of its “Cocktail Time” watches exclusively to customers in Japan. The first of these  “JDM” (Japan Domestic Market) models debuted in 2010 and carried the Reference number SARB065. Now discontinued (and accordingly in high demand by collectors), this watch (above) and its siblings, the SARB066 and SARB068, featured 40mm cases in stainless steel, which were fairly thick at 13.3mm high. The movement inside the cases was Seiko’s Caliber 6R15, with bidirectional automatic winding, a 50-hour power reserve, and an impressive resistance to magnetic fields of 4,800 A/m.  Unlike the many Presage models that followed, the originals were not nicknamed after specific cocktail concoctions but simply for different styles: the SARB065 with its ice-blue dial was “Cool,” the SARB066 with a pale, cream-colored dial was “Dry,” and the reddish brown dial of t...

Louis Erard Watches: How the Regulator King Became an Indie Darling Teddy Baldassarre
Louis Erard Mar 7, 2024

Louis Erard Watches: How the Regulator King Became an Indie Darling

Louis Erard is one of those Swiss watch brands that may have registered on your radar only recently - earning both enthusiast buzz and critical acclaim in the past few years thanks to its very high-profile partnerships with indie watchmakers whose own timepieces might otherwise be unattainable. How did Louis Erard, which actually traces its origins all the way back to the Great Depression, manage to finally find its niche in the 21st Century? Family Foundations Born in 1893 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a historical hub of Swiss watchmaking, Louis Erard discovered his horological vocation early. In the early 1900s, he began plying his trade as a watchmaker for several of the town’s workshops, and in 1929 founded a watchmaking school where he served as instructor. At the same time, Erard started a watchmaking business with a partner named André Perret, originally as an “assembler” of complete timepieces for third parties using parts supplied by independent artisans. By 1931, the partnership was dissolved and Erard became a producer of watches under his own eponymous brand name. The company grew in the following decades, with Erard’s two sons, René and Jean-Louis, joining in 1945. Among the company’s milestones during this early period was helping to develop the now-legendary Valjoux 72 chronograph caliber. In 1956, Louis Erard, which still used third-party movements in its own watches, advanced to the next stage of horological prestige, starting production of it...

Hands-On: the Haim Legacy Automatic Collection Worn & Wound
Feb 5, 2024

Hands-On: the Haim Legacy Automatic Collection

Once a small brand has gained some traction, they usually do one of two things: dig deep into a hero product, or continue to delve into their brand ethos to create new things. Haim Watch Company seems to be steadfastly in the latter category. Following initial releases like the L2 and the Descent which featured design codes that clearly linked them together, one would be forgiven for assuming they’d mine these models for all they’re worth. But instead, the Chicago-based brand is building new styles that only expand the definition of what a Haim watch can be. Their latest collection is their Legacy Automatic. Coming in three colorways, this line-up shows a break from the previous generations of Haim watches and nods at real growth towards higher-quality, and more eye-catching designs. Compare, for example, the original Legacy collection to the Legacy Automatic. While the former has a fairly inconspicuous charm to it, you can begin to see that Haim is ready to cement itself as a brand that can take risks and maintain its mission statement as a microbrand that brings a luxury feel to a relatively affordable price point.  The Legacy Automatic references boast a lot of firsts for the brand, so I’d like to start with those as a sort of headliner for the collection. For one, it’s the first time and date-only design within the Legacy line-up. Not only that, but it’s Haim’s first custom designed caliber (more on what that really means soon) and is the first watch in Ha...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Breaking Down Sartory Billard’s New Movement, Tracking the Northern Lights, and Unboxing the Apple Vision Pro Worn & Wound
Feb 3, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Breaking Down Sartory Billard’s New Movement, Tracking the Northern Lights, and Unboxing the Apple Vision Pro

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Sartory Billard’s SB08 Movement Gets Broken Down at Revolution  Our friends at Revolution have what is easily the most interesting technical watchmaking article we’ve seen in quite some time this week. In part 2 of their examination of Sartory Billard’s SB08 caliber, Cheryl Chia takes a deep dive into the ongoing work in developing this complicated, unique, and frankly quite exciting movement that features jumping hours and jumping minutes and a tourbillon. Part 1 of the three-part series was published in October, and serves as a higher level overview of the idea behind the SB08, and a little background on the Sartory Billard brand, while this latest article digs a bit more into the weeds of the mechanics, and some of the inherent challenges in developing a movement that requires so much power. We don’t often get a view into movement design in what amounts to real time, so this is a must read for anyone with an interest in the highly complicated mechanical calibers. Chia takes us through some fairly complex watchmaking problem solving, and provides a taste of what finished watc...

eBay Finds: A Rare Omega with the Full Kit, a Certina Chronograph in Great Condition, and a Pair of Fantastic Bulovas Worn & Wound
Certina Chronograph Feb 2, 2024

eBay Finds: A Rare Omega with the Full Kit, a Certina Chronograph in Great Condition, and a Pair of Fantastic Bulovas

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Benrus First up this week is some stylish bling, a vintage 1958 solid 14k gold Benrus. The solid gold case has unusual fancy lugs and a slim bezel, and is on the smaller side at 32mm wide. There is a super cool personalized engraving from Booth’s 25 Year Club. Yeah, I don’t know what that is either, but the engraving really is a good one. The silver dial is superb with the classic Benrus logo and tri-color bar beneath it. There are applied gold arrow markers for most of the hours, and Arabic numerals for the 12, 3, 6 and 9. No date, but a classy sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. This is a nice stylish dress watch that has the under-the-radar bling with the solid gold case. No movement pic, but the seller states the watch runs well. View auction here Seiko 66-7109 “Blue Tuxedo” Here’s a great vintage hand-wound Seiko on the original bracelet. The bold blue bullseye style dial really pops without being garish, and it’s in fantastic condition. There are applied steel markers and no date – this  is a great looking dial. The steel case is 36mm and unpolished, with nice sharp edges, and it also has the original crown. The Seiko caliber 66 manual wind movement is crisp ...

eBay Finds: A Classic Zodiac Sports Watch, an Affordable Seiko 5, and a Rare Favre-Leuba with the Full Kit Worn & Wound
Zodiac Sports Watch Jan 19, 2024

eBay Finds: A Classic Zodiac Sports Watch, an Affordable Seiko 5, and a Rare Favre-Leuba with the Full Kit

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Zodiac Aerospace GMT Starting this week off with a killer vintage Zodiac Aerospace GMT. Zodiac is definitely well known for their Sea Wolf divers, but the lesser-known Aerospace is a fantastic piece. It features a two-tone black and gray 24 hour acrylic bezel insert that is in great condition. The gloss black dial is crisp and clean, as are the steel stick hands. The GMT hand is painted red to stand out. The original crown is signed with the Zodiac symbol as it should be. The Zodiac caliber 75 automatic movement is clean and the seller states it currently runs well and keeps time. The watch comes on a cool vintage riveted oyster style bracelet that looks great with the watch even though it’s not original. View auction here Vintage 1953 Bulova Next up is a brilliant vintage Bulova dress watch with fancy lugs. The 27mm wide yellow gold fill case is excellent with no wearthrough that I can see in the pictures. The fancy lugs have a knotted look and are really unique and cool. The dial is the classic butler silver color with applied arrows and Arabic numerals and a sub-seconds at 6 o’clock. The dial looks original to me and is in excellent condition, paired with the original gold daup...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Enhances the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve with Subtle Updates Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Enhances Jan 15, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Enhances the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve with Subtle Updates

Many in the watch community are predicting that 2024 will be year where we see a wider adoption of avant-garde and modern design as the pendulum continues to swing away from vintage inspired classicism. This is a good thing, and worth celebrating. But there will always be a market for elegant, classic designs. The kind that have been nailed down and perfect for decades, and define the “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” mentality. There isn’t a brand out there that is more in tune with this style of watchmaking than Jaeger-LeCoultre. Similar to Rolex, they iterate slowly, and don’t adhere to the (false) notion that buzzy new releases are required as part of an industry cycle. They just kind of do their thing, and it almost always results in a beautiful object. Their latest, the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve, is familiar in many ways but has several small changes that make it even more refined.  Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultra thin watches are a niche of a niche unto themselves. For years, even before the current Thinness Wars really took shape, JLC has been adept at getting the best possible performance from impossibly thin movements, and taking advantage of their diminutive dimensions by housing them in exceedingly well designed watches that take full advantage of their size. For the new Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve, JLC’s Caliber 938 has been reworked slightly to increase the total power reserve to a healthy 70 hours without drastically changing the movement...

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Christopher Lee Worn & Wound
Seiko s catalog.  You can Jan 5, 2024

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Christopher Lee

Editor’s Note: In this week’s installment of our ongoing “3 for 5k” series, reader Christopher Lee presents a collection that incorporates two watches he personally owns, and one that might be entering his collection soon. These three watches cover a lot of horological ground, from a classic Swiss diver, to the most tech-forward watch in Seiko’s catalog.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Oris Aquis – $2,400 When setting out to name three watches for $5k, I knew I wanted to have at least one dive watch. It was the style of watch that first got me hooked on the hobby and in my opinion, every collection should have one. To me, the Oris Aquis has qualities that make it extremely desirable. Personally, I own the Caliber 400 model, but for the purposes of this list I will refer to the Sellita powered version.  First off, the Aquis has great build quality and finish. The watch feels substantial in the hand and features 300m of water resistance. Furthermore, the transitions from polished surfaces to brushed are razor sharp. The head of the watch feels extremely solid with crown guards that are screwed onto it, which for me is a purposeful nod towards the longevity of the case. The bezel and its ceramic insert feel great to use with its snappy ratcheting feedback. Every set of links on the integrated bracelet features polished outer links and full articulation, contributing to a comfortab...

21 Best Everyday Watches For All Price Ranges in 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 1, 2024

21 Best Everyday Watches For All Price Ranges in 2026

The definition of an everyday watch can, of course, be highly subjective, based on one’s individual needs, tastes, and budget (I have met people who rock A. Lange & Söhne, F.P. Journe, and even Richard Mille as their “everyday” brands). But most of us can get behind Teddy’s idea that an everyday watch is one that combines versatility with specifications suited for day-to-day needs; it can be dressed up or down, is highly legible in most conditions, and is water resistant enough for worry-free daily wear (i.e., rated to at least 50 meters). As a timepiece that will spend much more time actually on the wrist than in a safe, it should also be affordable. Hence, our selection of the 21 best everyday watches starts under $500 and tops out under $10,000. Citizen Tsuyosa Price: $450, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 9.1mm, Lug to Lug: 45mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Automatic Caliber 8210 Best known for its light-powered Eco-Drive movements, Japan’s Citizen also offers a lineup of appealing mechanical timepieces, including the recently introduced NJ015 automatic series, nicknamed “Tsuyosa,” a Japanese word meaning “strength.” Speaking to the contemporary trend towards eye-catching colorful dials, Tsuyosa models offer five, all with a subtle sunburst finish: blue, yellow, green, turquoise, and black. The round, chamfered steel cases measure 40mm in diameter and 11.7mm thick, with an unconventionally positioned crown at 4 o’clock for...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: An Incredible Parmigiani Fleurier Pocket Watch, Zuck’s Hawaiian Bunker, and the 100 Best TV Shows of All Time Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Pocket Watch Zuck’s Hawaiian Dec 23, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: An Incredible Parmigiani Fleurier Pocket Watch, Zuck’s Hawaiian Bunker, and the 100 Best TV Shows of All Time

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Parmigiani Fleurier L’armoriale Pocket Watch  Sometimes we get word of a watch that is just too beautiful and special not to feature. It’s become a tradition for Parmigiani Fleurier to create a special, completely unique pocket watch every year to celebrate founder Michel Parmigiani’s birthday, and this year they’ve really outdone themselves with a watch they’re calling L’armoriale.  The heart of the timepiece is a mechanical caliber dating to 1890 that was restored by Parmigiani in 1985. Originally a chronograph minute repeater, the movement now features both of those complications as well as a perpetual calendar with a moonphase, a pretty incredible demonstration of Parmigiani’s skill as a watchmaker as well as his devotion to restoration and preserving and sometimes even enhancing horological history. The white gold case features a beautiful enameled caseback, and of course virtually everything here is completely handmade and hand finished, down to the intricate chiseled adornments that run across the case band. It’s a real work of art, worth spending some time gawk...

12 Yellow-Dial Watches From Affordable to Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 8, 2023

12 Yellow-Dial Watches From Affordable to Luxury

Yellow is a color meant to draw attention: there’s a reason it’s used in road signs, stoplights, and to highlight important text passages. When yellow is used on a watch dial, you can usually be sure that it’s a watch that is meant to be anything but understated and subtle - whether the tone is a bright, matte “signal” yellow or a more elegant, shiny-surfaced gold or champagne tone. Here are a dozen yellow-dialed watches that span the gamut from sporty to luxurious - and from affordable and easily accessible to expensive and ultra-exclusive.  Citizen Tsuyosa Price: $450, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 9.1mm, Lug to Lug: 45mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Automatic Caliber 8210 Best known for its light-powered Eco-Drive movements, Japan’s Citizen also offers a lineup of appealing mechanical timepieces, including the NJ015 automatic series, nicknamed “Tsuyosa,” a Japanese word meaning “strength.” Speaking to the contemporary trend towards eye-catching colorful dials, Tsuyosa models offer five, all with a subtle sunburst finish, including the standout yellow version above. The round, chamfered steel cases measure 40mm in diameter and 11.7mm thick, with an unconventionally positioned crown at 4 o’clock for better ergonomics on the wrist. The bracelet has what Citizen describes as a “mountain-shaped” design thanks to its individually curved links; the center links and the bezel are both sleekly polished. The self-winding...

The Latest Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Taps into Japanese Skateboarding Culture Worn & Wound
Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Nov 14, 2023

The Latest Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Taps into Japanese Skateboarding Culture

For those of you who only know the Tony Hawks of the world when it comes to skateboarding celebrities, might I introduce you to Yuto Horigome.  Born in Tokyo on January 7, 1999, Yuto began skateboarding at six, influenced by his father. Rising through the ranks of Japanese competitions as a teenager, he moved to the U.S. after high school and quickly excelled in Street League Skateboarding, winning three 2018 stops within a year of his debut. Horigome achieved numerous milestones, including being the first Japanese skateboarder to win the X Games in 2019 and securing the World Championship in 2021, and in 2023, he became the first Japanese skateboarder to triumph at the historic Tampa Pro contest in the United States. With a resume like this, it’s no wonder that Seiko has released their latest Seiko 5 Sport in collaboration with the skateboarding wunderkind. This automatic GMT is the perfect balance of Seiko’s trademark style with a nod to the Tokyo that Horigome-san knows and loves.  For starters, the 42.5mm stainless steel case and bracelet are coated in black which works nicely as the backdrop for the blue and purple bezel, inspired by Tokyo sunsets. The exhibition back’s Hardlex crystal is decorated with Yuto’s signature for an added personalized touch. Underneath the crystal, one can see the 4R34 caliber at work. This is a limited edition model with a limited production run of just 2,700 pieces. Each unit will be serialized, and the retail price is $520. Ava...

Breitling Refines the Avenger Collection SJX Watches
Breitling Refines Nov 1, 2023

Breitling Refines the Avenger Collection

Breitling has redesigned the Avenger collection of big and bold pilot’s watches. First introduced in 2001 – the original is perhaps best known for being worn by Leonardo DiCaprio in Blood Diamond – the Avenger is now (very) slightly scaled down, kitted out with cleaner dials and better case detailing, and an in-house movement for the chronograph. Made up of the B01 Chronograph 44, GMT 44 and Automatic 42, the new Avenger collection still retains its signature size and style – the watches remain oversized, rugged, and functional, with chunky rotating bezels and 300 m of water resistance. Initial thoughts  Breitling is known for is oversized pilot’s watches and the Avenger is exactly that. More substantial and modern than the old-school Navitimer, the Avenger is an unapologetically big, bold “tool” watch. The facelift has streamlined the design slightly, giving it a cleaner and more contemporary look, while retaining the key elements of the Avenger, including the all-matte brushed case and rotating bezel with rider tab. While there are technically three models in the family, the key one has always been the chronograph, and that is emphasised here with the Avenger chronograph with in-house Calibre B01. This is now the only chronograph in the line-up, while previously the collection included both ETA-powered and in-house versions. The Breitling B01 features a vertical clutch and column wheel Although the chronograph is the priciest in the collection, it is defi...

MAEN Launches the Third Version of their Skymaster 38 with a New Movement and a Surprising Collaborator Worn & Wound
Maen Oct 9, 2023

MAEN Launches the Third Version of their Skymaster 38 with a New Movement and a Surprising Collaborator

MAEN Watches has relaunched their vintage inspired Skymaster 38 chronograph over the weekend, adding three new updated references to the collection, including a surprising limited edition. The Skymaster feels like a watch right in MAEN’s wheelhouse: a sports watch with an aesthetic that’s clearly inspired by the past, but executed at an incredibly high level with a surprising level of detail, all at a price point that makes these watches tough to ignore. I spent some time recently with MAEN’s Brooklyn 36 reference, an old school triple calendar, and was pleasantly surprised at the level of refinement on a watch that comes in at well under $1,000. The Skymaster, now in a MKIII version, contains many similar small details. There are two big changes with this third edition of the Skymaster 38. First, the watch now runs on the new Sellita SW510Mb manually wound movement, and the case has gone through a series of little adjustments to properly house it. Previous versions of the Skymaster used automatic movements, so the inclusion of a manually wound caliber here represents a significant change, and really plays into the heritage angle of a release like this.  Secondly, in addition to offering a 12 hour bezel, MAEN is now making the Skymaster with an optional tachymeter bezel as well. The more prominent tachymeter bezel changes the appearance of the Skymaster dramatically, and should prove popular with collectors who are after a more traditionally styled racing chronograp...

eBay Finds: Sporty Swatch Watches and Seikos to Formal Bulova and Omega Watches Worn & Wound
Bulova Oct 6, 2023

eBay Finds: Sporty Swatch Watches and Seikos to Formal Bulova and Omega Watches

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Seiko 5 Sports 6119-6400 Day Date Starting off this week with a sweet vintage Seiko 5 Sports diver. This one is really cool, with a round, UFO style steel case that has a simple black external bezel but an internal rotating elapsed time bezel. The black dial is clean with lume filled steel baton hour markers. The correct crown is recessed at 4 o’clock which gives it a clean look. The Hardlex crystal has some scratches, but you can find replacements with a little eBay searching. These models are usually beaten to a pulp, but this one is about as clean as you’ll find. The bracelet isn’t original unfortunately, but the watch is still on point. View auction here. Vintage Bulova Here we have a gorgeous vintage Bulova dress watch. This beauty is from 1950, and the fancy “knotted” lugs are the hero for sure. The 29mm case is in pretty good shape, with little wearthrough on the 10k gold plate case. The two-tone silver dial looks to be original and has only a light, even patina which looks fantastic. Gold dauphine hands round out the look. The Bulova caliber 10BC manual wind movement is clean and the seller states it runs well. Really an amazing and stylish Mid-Century Mod Bulova dre...

It’s M.A.D. 1 Raffle Time Again, Now with a New Green Version Worn & Wound
MB&F; Sep 15, 2023

It’s M.A.D. 1 Raffle Time Again, Now with a New Green Version

If you’ve been trying to score a M.A.D. 1 – the absolutely insane, value oriented limited edition watch that most certainly is not an MB&F; but is conceived by many of the same people – you’re in luck. Max Busser, the “MB” of MB&F;, has announced that a new version of the M.A.D. 1 is soon to be released, this time in green, with options to purchase still determined by a raffle. Ever since the original M.A.D. 1 appeared in the spring of 2022, it’s been an object of considerable fascination for the many admirers of MB&F; who simply can’t afford a watch with a six figure price tag. The conceit of the M.A.D. 1 is that it offers a whole lot of the imagination and playful whimsy of an MB&F; piece, but with an off-the-shelf movement (heavily modified) in an unusual case for not a whole lot of money. Their scarcity, and the sheer visual impression these watches leave, has made them an enduring Instagram hit with a certain type of enthusiast.  The new M.A.D. 1 is effectively the same watch as the previous version, but with bright green accents instead of red. For those who might be brand new to the concept, a quick overview of how thing works might be in order. The heart of the M.A.D. 1 is a simple Miyota automatic caliber that has been inverted, so the back of the movement points up, where you’d normally find a dial. But there is no dial – just a rapidly spinning, triple blade, tungstend/titanium rotor, which we suspect is the single most heavily modified piece of...