Results for Caliber B19

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Worn & Wound

Jul 3, 2023

Dumoreau Follows Up their Debut with an Attractive Contemporary Dress Watch

The DM02 is the sophomore release from California-based micro brand Dumoreau, following the DM01 we touched on here. Designed by architect and designer Carlo Aiello, this dress watch takes his expertise in architecture and product design into the realm of the dress watch, while drawing on basic principles of proportion to create a compelling new release that slots in nicely with his debut. The dial features a two-piece construction with recessed concentric circles at the center, complemented by a brushed circular section for numerals and minute track. The indexes maintain their orientation as they encircle the dial, while the only branding present is the hand-applied Dumoreau name, seamlessly integrated into the concentric circles. The curvaceous all-polished 39mm case directs works to draw the eye to the dial, with lyre lugs providing additional visual interest. The stated goal of the design was to create a “dynamic organic geometry,” and the end result is a case with both gentle and dramatic curves that cohere nicely with the details of the dial. The screw-in sapphire caseback exposes the manually wound Sellita SW 210-1 movement, decorated with Geneva stripes and circular graining. With dimensions of 39mm wide, 46mm lug to lug, and a slim profile of 9.5mm thanks to the hand wound caliber, the DM02 is designed to fit comfortably on wrists of all sizes. Conveniently, it boasts a water resistance rating of 100 meters, uncommon for a manually wound dress watch. The DM02 ...

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Worn & Wound

Nivada Grenchen CASD Starting Jun 29, 2023

eBay Finds: NOS Full Kits, Classic Divers, & Unknown Chronos

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Nivada Grenchen CASD Starting this week off with a classic chrono-diver, the amazingly named Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver. I mean, could the name be any better? As great as the name is, the watch is even better. The Chronomaster is a timeless masterpiece, with simple, functional design that looks as good as it is functional. There are many different iterations of the Chronomaster, with different dials, hands and movements, but I feel this one is the best. Clean black dial with two black subdials and the broad arrow hour hand. The steel case measure about 38mm (seller doesn’t state this, but I have the same watch), and looks unpolished, with nice sharp edges on the beveled lugs. This example is powered by the buttery smooth Valjoux caliber 23 manual wind movement, which is a joy to use. The elapsed time aluminum bezel insert is in excellent condition, and the watch even comes on a Nivada signed bracelet! Seller states the watch keeps time and works properly, but there is some patina on the dial, so keep that in mind. View auction here. Hema Chronograph Another chronograph, but this one has a much bolder look to it. This circa 1960’s Hema (yeah, I’ve never heard ...

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Worn & Wound

Tudor Throwback Jun 29, 2023

An Unlikely Tudor Throwback (in Solid Gold) Heads to Only Watch

We’ll have a lot more on our favorite lots from this year’s Only Watch sale next week, but on this day of big Tudor news, we’d be remiss not to mention their contribution to the 2023 edition of the charity auction, a solid gold chronograph inspired by their very first automatic chronograph. The Tudor Prince Chronograph One brings some luxury flair to the auction from the tool watch specialist, in a format that the brand had all but abandoned by the time they relaunched in the US over a decade ago. In addition to being a literal unique piece (as all watches in the Only Watch sale are) this one sports a new caliber that is honestly kind of hard to believe even exists in 2023.  The 12, 6, 9 chronograph display here is a familiar sight to anyone who has dabbled in enthusiast centric chronos – it’s the hallmark layout of the vaunted Valjoux 7750, an ubiquitous caliber if there ever was one, used by more brands than we can possibly count over the years, including, of course, Tudor. The Tudor Prince Chronograph line that made use of these movements as well as the earlier “Big Blocks” dating to the late 1970s have always been collector favorites, coming in a variety of colorways over the years. It differs sharply from modern Tudor chronographs that use their in-house caliber with a 3,6 9 layout that seems to beg for comparisons to the Daytona, which of course is made by Rolex, Tudor’s sister brand. Now that classic layout is back, sort of, with what Tudor describe...

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Worn & Wound

Schwarz Etienne Jun 25, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep.55: Variety is the Spice of Life

On this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss covers a diverse group of new releases. We start at the high end with some new chronographs by Singer Reimagined and then head over to a limited quartet by Elka with some help from Ace Jewelers. Next up was a truly wild creation by Schwarz Etienne that was designed by vaunted designer, Eric Giroud. Last, we celebrate Alpina’s 140th anniversary with a look at their incredibly limited and incredibly cool new square watches powered by a vintage caliber. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep.55: Variety is the Spice of Life appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Worn & Wound

Breitling Launches Jun 23, 2023

Breitling Launches a Pair of Motorcycle Themed Collaborations in their Permanent Collection

Breitling’s long history has continuously been dotted with opportunities to push the brand forward and introduce a new crowd to the Swiss brand. One way to do this is through a continued focus on partnering with brands that complement the Breitling’s mythology, particularly those with a focus on adventure, speed, and adrenaline. Take, for example, the latest releases from Breitling’s Top Time line-up. Originally designed in the 1960’s by Willy Breitling, grandson of the family company’s founder Léon, as a response to the growing interest in motosports. The popular model, worn by design aficionados and 007’s alike, has only increased in popularity over its six-decade span. Now, both Triumph and Deus Ex Machina are putting their own spin on the Top Time platform once again, after a series of previous successful collaborations along similar lines. Released this week, both the Top Time B01 Triumph and Top Time B01 Deus nod to the freewheeling spirit of the decades before while situating their own mark on the brand for the modern wearer. Both the Triumph and the Deus follow a blueprint established in previous collaborations, including the ice blue dial on the Triumph and playful accents on the Deus, but the new watches feature Breitling’s B01 chronograph caliber, whereas the earlier references used an ETA derived Caliber 23. That upgraded caliber is housed within the same 41mm stainless steel case as its predecessors. Often called the “unconventional chronograp...

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Worn & Wound

Jun 21, 2023

Singer Reimagined Introduces a Pair of Smaller Chronographs with Updated Movements and Features

If there was an easy knock you could make against the previous iterations of the Singer Reimagined chronographs, it’s that they were too big. At 43mm in a big cushion case, they have a ton of wrist presence to be sure, and require a larger wrist to pull off effectively. But they’re mechanically ingenious, and, in my opinion, pretty great looking from a purely aesthetic perspective, so I was always willing to forgive them for their size. Now, with a pair of watches in the brand’s new Singer 1969 collection, they’ve gone a long way toward answering doubters who made the large size of their earlier watches a dealbreaker. They’ve also incorporated new functionality, refining the mechanical piece to make their watches even more intuitive.  The 1969 Chronograph is the heavy hitter of the pair of watches announced today. This watch features an updated Agengraphe caliber that’s smaller (to fit the new 40mm case) and also includes a time display. Elapsed time is still read from the centrally mounted hands, but the current time is now displayed in an aperture at 6:00 via a pair of rotating discs. The chronograph incorporates jumping minutes and hours for precision, and the caliber is capable of timing events of up to 60 hours, which is a feat only Singer can claim.  The more modest 1969 Timer is my personal favorite of the two new watches. This is effectively an update of Singer’s Flytrack watches, which incorporate a 60 second timer via the centrally mounted running...

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Worn & Wound

Seiko Reveals New Trimmer King Jun 5, 2023

Seiko Reveals New, Trimmer King Seiko References

Seiko is continuing to refine their modern King Seiko collection with a series of iterations seen in a pair of new references: the SJE089, and the SJE091. The evolution may not be visible at a glance, but a closer look reveals a new date-equipped movement at use, a slimmer case, and a slightly altered profile, all done in the service of ergonomics. The result is a new King Seiko that measures just 10.7mm in thickness, shaving a few tenths off the first releases we saw in 2022, while adding a date complication at the same time. Overall the design is still heavily referential to the original 1965 King Seiko KSK, which has a special place in Seiko history that you can read more about in our introduction of the 2020 LE that set the template for the modern references we enjoy today.  The new King Seiko references bring a date back to the dial at 3 o’clock thanks to the caliber 6L35 inside, which is making its first appearance in the main King Seiko collection. This is the most notable difference from the initial SPB King Seiko references launched last year, which used the 6R31 movement. The SJE references land a bit closer to the original as a result, and remain relatively demure with the same silver and black dial options. The case is what really deserves a closer inspection here. It remains steel and measures 38.6mm in diameter, however features a new trimmer lug profile that integrates a bit more seamlessly to the case via the large, flat surfaces that define its shape. T...

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Worn & Wound

May 23, 2023

Wilbur Watch Co. Introduces the LEO, an Area 51 Inspired Watch with a Unique Jumping Hour Display

Here at Worn & Wound, we’re all pretty big fans of watches that approach time telling in an unusual way. In our collections you’ll find regulators, watches with offset dials and movements exposed from the front, watches with no numerals or indices at all, and you might even catch a d.m.h jump hour if you spend enough time on our Instagram feeds. The watch we’re looking at today, the LEO by Wilbur Watch Co., actually feels like an evolution of the d.m.h format – it’s a jumping hour mechanism that’s highly complex, but yields a surprisingly intuitive method for reading the time. And it comes in a big, bold package, partially inspired by a fascination with stories of extraterrestrials coming out of Roswell, NM and Area 51. So, you know, just a normal, everyday kind of watch.  At the heart of the LEO is what the brand refers to as the Engine One movement, an automatic, Swiss made caliber, designed by Wilbur Watch Co. Time is told via two discs on either side of the dial, one transparent sapphire, the other aluminum. The discs are each marked with symbols that look like hieroglyphics, which is part of the alien inspiration for the piece. Those symbols are designed to fit together to form numerals, though, as the discs rotate. The hour is read at the dead center of the dial, outlined with a bright blue ring, where the two rings meet. The minutes are read via a rotating ring at the outside of the dial (an arrow right below the hour indicator points to the current min...

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Worn & Wound

Hamilton watches rolled off May 22, 2023

J.N. Shapiro Launches the Resurgence, the First U.S. Made Mechanical Watch Since 1969

It’s not hyperbole to say that this is an historic day in American watchmaking history. J.N. Shapiro, the California based indie known primarily for their beautiful engine turned dials, has announced a new American made watch. According to the brand, this is the first mechanical watch that can be accurately described as “Made in America” since 1969, when the last American made Hamilton watches rolled off the production line. It’s a big deal, and a big step for a watchmaker that has been very much on the rise in recent years, taking on more complex production challenges with every new release. From dials, to cases, to movements, Shapiro can now claim a watch where virtually every component is made in a single workshop.  The watch, which Shapiro has dubbed the Resurgence, is the culmination of 12 years of learned experience among Shapiro and his team. At a glance, it has all of the aesthetic hallmarks of any Shapiro watch. A highly detailed multi level dial, for one, accented with intricate engine turning that has become Shapiro’s hallmark. What sets this watch apart, though, is the movement, which is not only beautiful to look at, with healthy doses of anglage, bridges with a distinct Damaskeening pattern (the American equivalent of Côtes de Genève), and rounded spokes on the caliber’s wheels, but has been designed and fabricated entirely in the United States. Shapiro produced his first movement prototypes in 2019, and that has led to the caliber at work in t...

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Worn & Wound

Seiko Alpinist SARB017 – $600 May 19, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Thomas S.

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Thomas S. brings us a capable trio that isn’t afraid to step off the well beaten path. There’s new stuff, hard to get stuff, and kinda (but not really) old stuff, all bound by a great sense of style and practicality. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  I’m a minimalist at heart. That doesn’t mean I always succeed. As far as watches are concerned, I certainly have more than three (though proudly less than ten). I’ve spent the last couple of years working towards attaining my own perfect three watch collection. These watches are the core of what I take traveling, and are the most worn of all of my watches. I find it a well-rounded collection, if still leaning towards being sporty. As my collection grows (and shrinks) over the years, I anticipate these three watches remaining at the forefront of my collection. Seiko Alpinist SARB017 – $600 – $1000 The SARB017 was the first mechanical watch I ever bought myself. I picked it up just after Seiko quietly discontinued it, and was lucky enough to get it well under what they are selling for now, new or used. With the trusty and near-indestructible 6R15 caliber inside, the Seiko Alpinist SARB017 holds its own as a daily work watch beater. I should know, I wear it often when climbing and pruning trees as an arborist. The crown guards and second crown at 4 o’clock bely the A...

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Worn & Wound

Seiko Debuts May 16, 2023

Seiko Debuts the Next Generation Astron GPS Solar with New Titanium Silhouette & Dial Textures

Last year, Seiko celebrated their 10 year anniversary of the Astron GPS Solar collection by totally revamping its dial design with a dual time subdial configuration and constructing the case and integrated bracelet system out of titanium. The idea behind the refresh was to pave the way for a new generation of Astrons with a more fluid approach to how the watch is designed while still maintaining its signature features. To kick off this brand new decade of Astron GPS Solars, Seiko looks to continue its contemporary trend by debuting a series of watches sporting an off-center subdial design and angular case while keeping its bedrock solar GPS movement at its core. The cornerstone features of the Seiko Astron GPS Solar are its 3X and 5X series movements that are capable of automatically adjusting the time based on your current GPS coordinates. The new Seiko Astron GPS Solar in particular, houses their Caliber 3X62, equipped with 6 months of power reserve on a full charge, an accuracy rating of +/- 15 seconds per month and a host of other timing applications. As long as the dial is exposed to the sun, the Caliber 3X62 automatically connects to a GPS satellite twice a day to provide accurate time based on your current location. If for any reason the has not seen the light of day, a built-in smart application allows the Astron GPS Solar to remember the time of the last manual connection and attempts a following GPS connection. In ‘Power Save’ mode, which is enabled when the ...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

May 10, 2023

21 Small Dive Watches for Men and Ladies, from Under $100 to $10,000

Dive watches, as many of their enthusiasts know, are not generally known for being understated in their dimensions. This is, of course, by design, and in the service of both legibility and safety. To be used underwater, often in very dark conditions, a watch needs to be sizable enough (as well as luminous enough) for the wearer to discern both the time on the main hands as well as the remaining immersion period as set on the dive scale bezel. For these and other practical reasons, most watches built for diving tend to come in at 40mm and above in diameter. However, as the dive watch has become more a fashion statement and less a wearable tool - for ladies as well as gents - watchmakers have responded by downsizing some of their popular divers to offer more choices for a wider range of wearers, including those who will likely never wear their timepiece underwater. In some cases, the designs of these more modestly sized dive watches are even drawn from the brands’ archives, from historical eras in which smaller sizes were the norm, even for purpose-built tool watches like those made for divers. Using a 40mm diameter as our upper limit of “small,” here are 21 small dive watches, in ascending order of price, all of which combine professional-grade water resistance (at least 100 meters) with unisex appeal. Vostok Amphibia Price: $99, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 15mm, Lug-to-Lug: 49mm, Crystal: Acrylic, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Automatic Vostok Caliber 2416 Th...

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Worn & Wound

Serica Bolsters Apr 26, 2023

Serica Bolsters the 5303 COSC Antimagnetic Diving Chronometer from Within

Although Serica has only been around since 2019, it feels like the young watch brand has been around for ages. In my opinion, a lot of that has to do with the maturity in which they conduct themselves, both in brand presence and progression. With any Serica novelty, you can bet that their approach to any watch design is performed with metronomic consistency – typically with minimal branding, steady visual cues, and a general inspiration by way of vintage military timepieces. It seems that any change that’s going to be made within each reference will be incremental, but that doesn’t mean the impact can be monumental. Such is the case with the new and improved Serica 5303 COSC Antimagnetic Diver Chronometer. To understand the latest update to the Serica 5303, we must look within. Serica has opted to keep the movement within the Soprod family, but instead of using the previous Newton P092 automatic, the Serica 5303 COSC now draws its power from the Caliber M100. The Soprod Caliber M100 is buoyed by a glucydur balance, incabloc shock system, a 42 hour power reserve, and most importantly, a 3.2mm movement thickness. With approximately 1.4mm of extra room to play using the transitional movement inside of the 5303 COSC case, Serica has built in several antimagnetic pieces including a soft iron movement holder, soft iron dial and a soft iron inner caseback. As a result, the magnetic resistance for the Serica 5303 COSC diver has skyrocketed from the traditional Swiss standard...

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Worn & Wound

De Bethune When you go Apr 20, 2023

An Unexpected Dive into the World of De Bethune

When you go to Watches & Wonders, you hope to have an experience like the one Zach Weiss and I did with De Bethune. The Geneva based brand was actually not exhibiting at the show, but had space in the Beau Rivage hotel, right on the lake, along with a dozen or so other independent brands, all taking good advantage of the watch world absolutely descending on the city for an entire week. I have long been an admirer of De Bethune, but always from afar. They are not the easiest indie to get your arms around, both literally and figuratively. The watches are very rare and hyper specific in their design language, and for a long time I had the sense that they might appeal to exactly the 200 or so people per year that are able to obtain a new piece, no more no less. But then the last three years happened, and every independent brand took off like a rocket ship, and since De Bethune watches kind of look like rocket ships to begin with, their rise was perhaps even steeper. The DB Eight Monopusher We were there, ostensibly, to see two watches. The brand’s latest novelties both happen to be more classically styled than the avant-garde pieces they’ve become known for. The DB Eight monopusher chronograph is about as classic as it gets. The case design, with those flared lugs, is based on the DB1, the very first De Bethune, also a chronograph. This one, though, has a brand new caliber and is fashioned from grade 5 titanium as opposed to solid gold. While the aesthetic of the watch is ...

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Worn & Wound

Omega Seamaster Jumbo Going Apr 6, 2023

eBay Finds: Diver Chronographs, Full Kits, & NOS Goodness

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Seamaster Jumbo Going to start this week off with a bang with this stellar vintage Omega Seamaster! This circa late 1950’s reference 2975-1 SC is simply gorgeous and not one you see too often. Seller calls it ‘jumbo’ in the title but it’s just under 35mm wide, which is a classic Seamaster size. The unpolished steel case has tapered lugs rather than the ‘fat lugs’ style, but honestly I love this case/lug style. The caseback is fantastic with the oversized and deeply engraved Hippocampus logo, which is really uncommon. The original dial has a nice, fairly even patina, and killer applied steel arrow markers. The steel dauphine hands have some oxidation on them, but overall the whole watch is a beauty. Correct crown with deep grooves. The caliber 500 automatic movement is clean and seller states it runs well. If you’re pining for a vintage Seamaster, check this one out! View auction here. Vintage Baylor Dive Chronograph Next up we have a nice vintage Baylor chronograph diver. I have no idea why the seller has the workd ‘Heuer’ in the title other than clickbait. The steel skindiver style case measures 37.5mm wide and looks unpolished but does exhibit light w...

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Worn & Wound

TAG Heuer Mar 29, 2023

Should this Watch Exist? The Solid Gold Aquaracer is a Surprise Watches & Wonders Highlight

Ladies and gentlemen, I have a new obsession. Zach Weiss already told you about the latest Carreras from TAG Heuer, and they are undoubtedly pretty great. But the watch that stole the show for me from the TAG presentation was a solid gold Aquaracer. Yes, a solid gold Aquaracer. It wasn’t too long ago that we were universally kind of gobsmacked by a solar powered titanium version of this very same watch. Now, if you’d like, you can have a pair in two very different metals, which give very different impressions.  The key to this Aquaracer is the complementary nature of the rose gold case and the degrade dial, which is a warm blend of brown and gray. The bezel and tops of the lugs have a sandblasted finish that mimics the utilitarian look of titanium reference, but there are polished accents that really make the precious metal pop, and that’s kind of what you want on a watch like this.  Aside from the solid gold case, though, this is the Aquaracer we know and love (but just, you know, elevated to an insane degree). Inside ticks a TH31-00 automatic movement, a new caliber built by AMT, Sellita’s high end division. It has 80 hours of power reserve and has been COSC certified, so in terms of specs it’s highly competitive with calibers found in other high end divers. The case still measures a tidy 40mm in diameter. The horizontal ridged pattern that the Aquaracer’s dials have adopted recently is also present, and I can’t understate how well the tone of that dial w...

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Worn & Wound

Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection With 1908

Among the bevy of new Rolex watches released this year were a few unexpected watches, which isn’t a phrase we often mutter about the brand. We saw some unusually colorful dials (more on those later), and the launch of an entirely new formal collection called the Perpetual 1908, a reference to the brand’s name coinage by Wans Wilsdorf. With its introduction, the existing Cellini line has come to a close. The 1908 lives within the ‘classic’ range alongside the likes of the Oyster Perpetual and Sky-Dweller, but feels distinctly different from any existing line. Coming from a brand that’s been at the center of the sport watch craze over the past decade, the 1908 feels like a breath of fresh air. The Perpetual 1908 is a three hand time only watch offered only in 18k white or yellow gold. The trim case measures 39mm in diameter with a divided, partially fluted bezel framing the austere dial. Within resides the Rolex automatic caliber 7140, which gets a healthy amount of decoration worthy of being presented through an exhibition caseback. This is a new move from Rolex this year, appearing on both this watch, and the 60th anniversary platinum Daytona. The bridges of the 7140 receive a finish that the brand is calling “Rolex Côtes de Genève”, a re-interpretation of the classic technique seen often in Swiss movements. It differs from traditional Côtes de Genève in that it places a narrow polished groove between each of the parallel bands. Being a Rolex, there’s a...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Mar 27, 2023

Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 3

German independent Kudoke has carved out its own niche with a distinctive blend of English-inspired movements and Germanic attention-to-detail in its Handwerk line of watches. The latest addition to the line is the Kudoke 3, which largely sticks to the successful formula of prior models, but offers a twist in the form of a split-level dial and triple-scale hour display. Once known primarily for ostentatiously skeletonised Unitas calibers, such as the watch worn by Dominic Monaghan’s character in Last Looks, Kudoke hit the reset button in 2019 with Handwerk line comprised of the Kudoke 1 and 2. The collection introduced a more restrained design aesthetic and importantly, brand’s first proprietary movement. The Kudoke 3 continues down this path, but goes further in terms of creative design. The Handwerk collection (from left): Kudoke 1, Kudoke 2, and Kudoke 3 Initial thoughts As a fan of modern German (and historical English) watchmaking, I’ve been impressed with the brand’s work since the launch of the Kudoke 1. Like Habring² and Laine, Kudoke offers a compelling alternative to mass-produced luxury watches. The Kudoke 3 is a thoughtful and unconventional addition to the Dresden-based brand’s growing collection, offering a novel time display with three scales for the hours along with a three-armed hour hand. This triple-scale calls to mind the distinctive seconds register of the 1990s Daniel Roth tourbillon (recently reborn as the Tourbillon Souscription), but ...

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Worn & Wound

Vulcain Skindiver Nautique Vulcain made Mar 1, 2023

Hands-On with the Very Reasonable Vulcain Skindiver Nautique

Vulcain made a triumphant return in 2022 with the launch of a new series of iconic Cricket alarm watches in varying sizes and colors. By using the seemingly foolproof recipe of recreating a vintage timepiece with little to no reinterpretation, and relying on the historical value of the name itself, the brand was able to shake off several years of being dormant. The result was a quick sell-through and a return to relevance. The question, of course, was how they would follow up and take advantage of their newfound spotlight. The answer is the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique, which might initially seem like a surprising follow-up. Why? Well, rather than sticking with their in-house calibers or most recognizable models, they went for a somewhat generic mid-century diver. Whether or not this was a good idea will be left to consumers, but it was smart of them to demonstrate that they are going to delve deep and wide into their archives for inspiration, as well as create products at different price points. Available in black or blue with a few strap options, the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique is priced at around $1,600 (to be clear, it’s 1490 CHF, the USD is based on the exchange rate). $1600 Hands-On with the Very Reasonable Vulcain Skindiver Nautique Case Stainless Steel Movement ETA 2824-2 Dial Gloss Black Lume Yes Lens Domed Sapphire Strap Carbon Pattern Leather Water Resistance 20 ATM Dimensions 38 x 44.2mm Thickness 12.3mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty yes Price $1600 N...

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Worn & Wound

Accutron Day & Date Next Feb 23, 2023

eBay Finds: Vintage Seikos, Full Kit Chronos & More

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille First up this week is this beautiful minimalistic Omega Seamaster DeVille presentation watch in 14k yellow gold circa 1966. The solid gold case looks clean and unpolished, with super slim straight lugs. The back has an IBM presentation engraving dated 7/21/66. The champagne dial looks original and nearly perfect, with simple gold stick hour markers and hands. The Omega signed crown is correct. The watch comes with an Omega metal presentation box that shows lots of discoloration, which is common on these boxes. Seller states the watch runs well, no picture of the movement as the case is the front-loading type. View auction here. Vintage Bulova Accutron Day & Date Next up is a really cool and unusual Accutron. This model is unique with its “up-down” day/date configuration. The day is read vertically and is positioned just below the 12, and the date window is at 6. I love the way this dial design is so symmetrical. The dial does seem to have a light, fairly even patina that is not unpleasant. The square hour markers are lume filled and match the big stick hands nicely. Correct signed crown at 4 o’clock. The caliber 2182 tuning fork movement is clean ...

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D Deployant

Deployant

Accutron Astronaut DEPLOYANT - Feb 18, 2023

New: Bulova Accutron Astronaut

One of the most notable aspects of the Bulova Astronaut Re-Edition is its design. The watch features a 41mm stainless steel case with a black dial and luminous hands and markers, similar to the original watch. It also features a distinctive Day/Night bezel which helps the wearer track two time zones simultaneously. The watch is powered by a Swiss-made automatic movement, which ironically makes it no longer the 'most accurate watch in the world'; a phrase used to describe the original 1968 model with the 214HN sub-caliber.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Feb 15, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Debuts their First In-House Movement with the New AdC22

Last month, Atelier de Chronometrie, the Spanish independent brand led by one time vintage watch dealer Santiago Martinez, began teasing something that could only be described as unexpected: a new movement. Atelier de Chronometrie had, in a very short period of time, built a name for themselves almost entirely on the basis of expertly restoring and luxuriously finishing classic vintage movements, and using them in thoughtfully designed watches inspired primarily by timepieces of the 1930s and 40s. The brand offers a high level of customization, with clients able to dial in little details as they see fit, effectively making each watch coming out of the atelier a piece unique, or very close to it. This was a niche that didn’t really exist before Atelier de Chronometrie, at least at the very high end, and they’ve absolutely owned it. Now, with the release of the AdC22 less than a month after that initial social media tease, a new caliber bearing the brand’s name has opened up all kinds of new possibilities for Atelier de Chronometrie’s future.  The new movement, dubbed the M284 and described as “in-house” by the brand, was developed in partnership with independent watchmaker Luca Soprana. The caliber has been designed to resemble classic hand wound calibers from the 1940s, both in appearance and function. The construction, featuring small bridges for the going train, a large plate with hand applied côtes de Genève, and an exposed balance beating at a vintage ap...

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Worn & Wound

Feb 4, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Live Report from Red Bull Racing’s 2023 Season Launch, a Never Ending AI Generated Seinfeld Episode, Tiffany Signed Nike AF1, & More

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Blake Buettner Red Bull Racing 2023 Season Launch Recap This week, we had the opportunity to witness the launch of the RB19, Red Bull Racing’s Formula 1 car for the upcoming 2023 season (well, kinda). The car was launched in New York City, and is the only F1 car set to be revealed in the US, a sign of both the raising popularity of the sport in the States, as well an opportunity to spotlight their just-announced engine partner from the 2025 season on, Ford Performance. 2023 will the second year of the new regulations, which saw a shuffling of the regular order of a prior generation, and catapulted Red Bull’s team to the top of the heap, where they brought home the World Constructor’s championship, as well as the World Driver’s championship, won by Max Verstappen. Joining the team for the reveal were both drivers, Sergio Perez and Max Verstappen, as well as their newly announced reserve driver for the season, fan favorite, Daniel Ricciardo. All three were sporting the teams newly designed apparel, and there wasn’t much in the way of watch spotting, other ...

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Worn & Wound

Seiko SSK001 Feb 2, 2023

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Seiko SSK001 is the Best Affordable GMT Out There, But Will it Stand the Test of Time?

In watches, like all things in life, everything comes back full circle. My watch collecting journey has meandered through different types of watches, spanning all shapes and sizes. There was a time where my collection had ballooned to a number that my watch box couldn’t accommodate. More recently, it has shrunk to a number that I can count on one hand. Very manageable, even by watch enthusiast’s standards. But despite the watches of past and present, there will always be that one watch that started it all – the Seiko SKX. I’m not talking about the ubiquitous Seiko SKX 007. No, not at all. The watch that kicked off this wild journey within this hobby, and ultimately led me to typing these actual words for you to read at your leisure, was the Seiko SKX013. The Seiko SKX diver format, in a more compact wearing case, suited my preferences at the time. It’s the watch that opened Pandora’s box to all sorts of things in, and out of horology. From figuring out how to change out straps (from that rattley jubilee) and learning about the history of the dive watch, to actually getting me into the sport of surfing. Through thick and thin, the SKX013 has always taken up a spot in the quiver. My beloved Seiko SKX013 (Left) & my brand new Seiko SSK001 GMT (Right) Side By Side $475 [VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Seiko SSK001 is the Best Affordable GMT Out There, But Will it Stand the Test of Time? Case Stainless Steel Movement Caliber 4R34 Dial Black Lume LumiBrite Lens Hardlex ...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Zenith Jan 21, 2023

Zenith Defy Watch Guide

Swiss watch manufacture Zenith traces its roots to 1865, when it was founded in the village of Le Locle by precocious 22-year-old watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot. As one of the first watchmaking maisons to integrate all aspects of the watchmaking process under one roof, from case manufacturing to movement production to final casing and assembly, Zenith has long prided itself on its quest for timekeeping precision. The company has earned a record number of chronometry prizes over the years, and its most influential contribution to watchmaking history is its El Primero chronograph caliber, released in 1969. (Learn more about El Primero here.) In that same pivotal year, Zenith also released an avant-garde wristwatch series called Defy, whose bold, edgy design proved to be ahead of its time, and found its expression in the now-legendary Ref. A3642.  The Original Defy (1969) That watch was nicknamed the “coffre-fort,” a French term translating to “bank vault” or “safe,” a reference to its robustly angular, octagonal case, 14-sided bezel, and high-for-the-time water resistance of 300 meters, secured by its crown, caseback, and mineral crystal, all of which screwed securely into the case. Its “ladder-style” bracelet from legendary chainmaker Gay Frères also made the original reference notable. The Defy was positioned as Zenith’s toughest watch, featured in an advertisement in which six of the watches were strapped to the spokes of a motorcycle in a speed test a...

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Worn & Wound

Zenith Adds Jan 20, 2023

Zenith Adds a Smaller 36mm Defy Skyline to the Collection in a Range of Colors (Diamonds Optional)

Most of the attention focused on Zenith following their LVMH Watch Week releases has been focused on the new skeleton dial version of the Defy Skyline and a raiding of the archives in the form of a red dialed Defy. But it’s another new addition to the larger Defy camp that might prove to be the biggest hit with the widest possible audience: the Defy Skyline 36mm. This smaller and more compact Defy is decidedly unisex, and offers a classic case size with the Skyline’s more contemporary styling in a range of color options. It also forgoes the high frequency El Primero caliber found in the larger Skyline in favor of a thinner Elite series movement, a decision that proves to offer a range of benefits.  The pitch for this watch is actually very simple. A smaller Skyline for a broader array of wrists, simplified. The 36mm stainless steel case features the same highly angular case construction and shares the same profile as the larger Skyline, and borrows a dial design from last year’s watch as well. The four-pointed star motif can be had in blue (the same blue as last year’s 41mm model) or pastel shades of green and pink. The dials have a metallic finish that is satin brushed, giving them a subtle sense of texture and a bit of deeper complexity. If you’d like, you can choose to have the 12 sided bezel set with diamonds. A little less under the radar, perhaps, but we support brands giving customers options.  Besides the size, the key differentiator between these watch...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Rolex Aug 23, 2022

Rolex Explorer Guide

The Rolex Explorer is in many ways the quintessential dressy tool watch from Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual collection - less flashy than the GMT-Master, less bulky than the Submariner, while still rooted, like those two models, in a history of adventure and discovery. While it has changed very little since the 1950s, today’s Rolex Explorer is the culmination of many decades of aesthetic and technical evolution, guided by a watchmaker for whom the subtlest details make all the difference in the world to its avid legions of fans. Underpinning the Explorer: Oyster Case and Perpetual Caliber The Rolex Explorer, like all Oyster Perpetual timepieces in Rolex’s Professional collection, is an expression of two technical milestones that Rolex and its visionary founder Hans Wisdorf contributed to watchmaking history. The first is the so-called Oyster case, developed in 1926, which revolutionized the construction of watch cases with its dustproof, waterproof, hermetically sealed structure, secured by a threaded caseback and a crown that screwed tightly into the case. In 1931, Rolex made history again with the creation of its first “Perpetual” movement (below), whose self-winding mechanism was driven by an oscillating rotor. The marriage of these two inventions gave rise to the “Oyster Perpetual” line of timepieces that remain at the heart of Rolex’s collection today, beginning with the Datejust in 1945 and coming to full fruition with the tool-oriented, yet still luxuri...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Zodiac Aug 3, 2022

Zodiac Watches: A Comprehensive History and Guide to the Modern Collec

If you’ve only recently discovered Zodiac watches - a strong likelihood, as its most well-known and popular model, the Super Sea Wolf, has only been back on the market since 2015 - you may be surprised to learn that Zodiac traces its watchmaking history all the way back to 1882, and that it launched the first Sea Wolf dive watch back in 1953, placing it in the same historical company as other pioneering dive watches debuting in that seminal year, like the much more heralded Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Today the most prestigious and historical watch brand within the huge, Texas-based Fossil Group, Zodiac continues its longstanding tradition of offering distinctively styled Swiss Made watches at accessible prices, with some of the most popular models reviving its milestone designs from the mid-20th Century. THE BEGINNINGS Second-generation watchmaker Ariste Calame founded the workshop that would grow into the Zodiac watch company in 1882 in Le Locle, in Switzerand’s Jura Mountains. The first timepieces Calame made there were originally branded under his own name. In 1895, the founder’s son Louis Ariste Calame, who had also trained as a watchmaker, took over the business at the age of 20 and registered the name “Zodiac” in 1908, applying it to the innovative flat pocket watches, called Zodiac Triumph, which the company began producing in 1924, equipped with the in-house Caliber 1617 (below, via Watchuseek). In the wake of World War I, however, ...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Jaeger-LeCoultre Mar 10, 2021

EVENT: 5 rare high-complication watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre in a stunning vineyard setting

Jaeger-LeCoultre are known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker with good reason. Over their nearly 190-year history, the brand has produced movements used by most major Swiss watch brands with more than 1000 calibers developed over that time. And while 2021 is all about the Reverso as the brand celebrates the 90th anniversary of the famous design, … ContinuedThe post EVENT: 5 rare high-complication watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre in a stunning vineyard setting appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Oris Carl Brashear Cal 401 Jan 20, 2021

INTRODUCING: Yes, it’s yet another bronze watch. But here’s why the Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition matters…

Oris is well known in the watch world for making high quality timepieces that offer serious value. While less expensive than many of their competitors, Oris still uses top-notch materials like ceramic bezels and also now incorporates in-house calibers. By making the latest technology more accessible to buyers, the brand has cultivated a devout following. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Yes, it’s yet another bronze watch. But here’s why the Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition matters… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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