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Review: Le Monde en Cloisons – The Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5231J
Following the release of the Ref. 5230 in 2016, Patek Philippe introduces the new World Time Ref. 5231J with a cloisonné enamel center.
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Deployant
Following the release of the Ref. 5230 in 2016, Patek Philippe introduces the new World Time Ref. 5231J with a cloisonné enamel center.
Deployant
In Switzerland, there are 12 minute repeater specialists who can work on grande sonneries. Bulgari has 4 of them (one of them is the youngest in industry).
Revolution
This is something that came to our attention today and it’s appearance certainly begs the question: What heights can watchmaking reach after perfection is attained? And Is it possible to strive for even more? This one of a kind piece vividly supplies the answers, for what we have here is the rare and highly sought […]
Revolution
There’s something beautiful about whimsical complications, the kind that purposely disregards the utilitarian function of a watch: that of telling time, in order to make a statement. Like the well regarded Hermès Arceau Le Temps Suspendu, the new Dressage L’Heure Masquée (literally “Time Hidden”) from the same brand continues their somewhat playful obsession, that of making the […]
Monochrome
Parisian watchmaking maison L. Leroy was founded by Basile-Charles Le Roy in 1785 and became the official watchmaker to King Louis XVI and later to Napoleon I and Queen Victoria. Expanding operations to Switzerland, L. Leroy produced marine chronometers for the French Navy and amassed 384 gold medals in chronometry competitions. Iconic masterpieces like the […]
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Fratello
Get ready for a wave of L.U.C watches that Chopard presented during Watches and Wonders 2026. Apart from another look at the L.U.C 1860 with an Areuse blue dial in Lucent Steel, there are also the L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue, L.U.C Strike One Titanium, two versions of the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 – Straw Marquetry […] Visit One More Look At All The L.U.C Watches That Chopard Presented During Watches And Wonders 2026 to read the full article.
Fratello
Although eagles are not an endangered species, you don’t see too many of them around, especially the very thin ones. Alpine Eagles, I mean. Luckily, refinement rules at Chopard, and that means the hatching of the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS “Mountain Glow,” an 8mm-thick version of the brand’s luxury sports watch in bright Lucent Steel […] Visit Refinement Rules At Chopard: The New Lucent Steel Alpine Eagle 41 XPS “Mountain Glow” And L.U.C 1860 With An Areuse Blue Dial to read the full article.
SJX Watches
ACHI member and clockmaker John-Mikaël Flaux unveils the first clock in a new series, the Renaissance-inspired La Villa d’hOro. Fashioned as a tribute to the romantic city of Venice, the clock has an exposed movement and three dials, making it a rather practical piece of horological art. Initial thoughts Table clocks represent a niche category, even within the already niche realm of mechanical clocks. They lack the both the sobriety of large standing clocks and the convenient portability of watches - whether built for the pocket or the wrist. That said, this middle ground arguably makes them more attractive to a certain type of collector. Many modern artisanal clock producers take inspiration from science-fiction, popular culture or the automobile world. John-Mikaël Flaux went for a very different aesthetic with his La Villa d’hOro. Taking from his own experience exploring cities, the artisanal clockmaker decided to launch a small series of city and architecture inspired clocks, the Villa Tempus series. The first model, the La Villa d’hOro, takes its inspiration from the insular Italian city of Venice. Mr Flaux cites the landmark Doge Palace as the core architectural inspiration. The idea behind the La Villa d’hOro is to be reminiscent of Venice without actually emulating any specific part or building of the floating city. In many ways the La Villa d’hOro manages to capture the old world charm Venice, which has been mostly kept almost intact to this day...
Deployant
After a few years of hibernation, we see L.Leroy return with a new watch. A classical tourbillon, offered in three metal variants.
SJX Watches
A new independent voice emerges with the L’Impétrant, the debut watch from Stéphane Pierre, combining a bi-retrograde time display with an architecturally distinctive movement. Put together by an all-star roster of specialists, the L’Impétrant is a fresh take on a familiar format. Initial thoughts The central question with any debuting independent is whether ambition matches execution. Stéphane Pierre’s L’Impétrant is quirky and eccentric - and just as importantly seems well made thanks to the efforts of some 20 contributing specialists across fields such as movement construction, machining, electroplating, stamping and finishing. Given the evergreen popularity of the high-end, time-only format, it may well find its audience. The L’Impétrant’s visual staple is a set of enormous 19 mm retrograde hands - one for the minutes and the other for the hours. The bi-retrograde complication is no longer uncommon, but The L’Impétrant’s overlapping arrangement of the hands, and the luxurious construction of the mechanism, is unusual, helping it stand out within this niche. The mastermind behind the L’Impétrant has had an unusual career. Stéphane Pierre originally trained as a mechanical engineer and, intriguingly, has spent time working for both the Swatch Group and in the military sector. The L’Impétrant is essentially a very high-end time-only watch, and as such it enters a crowded market. However, rather than just developing a basic time-only watch...
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Time+Tide
The new Seiko Marinemaster HBF001 is the first non-limited Prospex model to use the more accurate 8L45 calibre introduced in July 2025.The post This new Seiko Marinemaster is the first non-limited Prospex to use the higher accuracy 8L45 movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Spring is in the air, and French brand March LA.B celebrates its favourite month with a limited edition of its flagship AM2 watch collection. Founded in 2009 by three friends, united by a passion for surfing and retro design, the LA.B part of the brand’s name does not refer to a laboratory but to the […]
Fratello
March LA.B initially caught my eye with the release of its AM2 GMT Grall Edition in 2024. But the French brand has been around for much longer than just a few years. It is the brainchild of three friends - Alain Marhic, Jérôme Mage, and Joseph Châtel. They share a passion for surfing and 1970s […] Visit Hands-On With The Exciting New March LA.B AM2 “Nyctalope” Carbon to read the full article.
Monochrome
Hitting the road to Fleurier, the discovery of L’Atelier Bernard was not what I expected. Bernard is a rather dated first name – one you rarely hear anymore for young people in Europe’s French-speaking countries. So, when I pushed open the door of their workshop in Fleurier, I was expecting to meet two old Swiss […]
SJX Watches
Startup independent brand Mermont has just made its public debut with the heavyweight La Parfaite, translating as “perfect one” in French. Assembled and adjusted by independent watchmaker Nicolas Delaloye, La Parfaite is among the most affordable platinum watches on the market, despite its contemporary case size and upscale construction. Initial thoughts At first glance, Mermont’s debut watch could pass for a handsome, stainless steel Breguet Souscription homage, probably priced accordingly. However, La Parfaite is not stainless steel, it is (mostly) platinum – and surprisingly affordable. Sebastien Bey-Haut, a watch and photography enthusiast, founded the brand, enlisting none other than Nicolas Delaloye, a Genevan watchmaker and AHCI member, to bring it to life. Though less commercially successful than some of his peers, Mr Delaloye is a respected independent watchmaker who spent eight years with the Patek Philippe Museum. Mr Delaloye personally polishes the single hour hand, performs final adjustment, and cases up the watches. It’s unusual for an upstart brand to debut with a precious metal watch, but that’s exactly what Mermont has done. But that hasn’t stopped the brand from focusing on the value proposition, pricing the La Parfaite well below industry norms for a platinum watch, especially a full size mechanical watch. Priced at CHF10,998 before taxes, La Parfaite is a full 38 mm in diameter and certainly among the least expensive mechanical platinum wa...
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Monochrome
The pursuit of perfection is what drives many watchmakers to venture out on their own. But what perfection means can be different for each and every one of them. New to the independent watchmaking scene, and in a literal pursuit of perfection, is Mermont and its debut La Parfaite watch. Founded by Sebastian Bey-Haut and […]
Monochrome
For over 180 years, L’Epée 1839 has been one of the greatest specialists in high-end mechanical clocks, from traditional carriage timepieces to captivating, bold creations like the 1520-component Albatross and other time-telling objects developed in cooperation with MB&F;, cars and aeroplanes for Tiffany & Co., or an Imperial Hot Air Balloon for Louis Vuitton, to […]
Monochrome
If I had to describe the return of L.Leroy, once one of France’s most illustrious watchmaking houses, with its name respected as much as those of Breguet and Ferdinand Berthoud, it was very theatrical. Founded in 1785 by Charles Leroy in Paris, it became famous for its marine chronometers, regulator clocks, and commissions for European […]
Time+Tide
Baltic's latest take on its Scalegraph, produced to commemorate the French Transat Café L’Or yacht race, is designed as a skipper’s tool.The post Baltic’s Scalegraph takes to the high seas with the Transat Café L’Or Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaking continues to draw enthusiasm from collectors, particularly as a new generation of creators begins to establish its voice. New brands are springing up to cater to that demand, and one of the most interesting recent debuts is The Owl by L’Atelier Bernard, a sold-out six-piece limited edition that blends unconventional aesthetics with equally unconventional mechanics. Handcrafted in Fleurier by the young duo Bernard Van Ormelingen and Bernard Braboretz, the watch showcases now familiar elements of artisanal finishing and inverted-movement architecture, along with something rarely seen, a duplex escapement, which makes The Owl a more distinctive entry in the crowded field of emerging independents. Initial thoughts The Owl is handcrafted by a pair of young and talented watchmakers, the Bernards who gave their name to the brand. Clearly a show of their shared aesthetic sensibilities and technical chops, the Owl is meant to kickstart the independent creators’ artisanal venture in Fleurier. One of the Bernards is not new to independent watchmaking; those who closely follow independent watchmaking might remember Mr Van Ormelingen’s name from Van Bricht, a now-defunct brand for which he produced guilloche dials. The Owl is unexpected and intriguing on several fronts. Its aesthetics, mechanics, decoration, and layout seem almost at odds with one another, yet the result is a distinctly artisanal object. There is no conventional dial; instead, the watch pr...
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Monochrome
March LA.B is a multi-product French company founded in 2009 by three friends passionate about surfing and 1970s retro design. Named after the month March, followed by an acronym for Los Angeles and Biarritz, where the founding partners reside, March LA.B retails a portfolio of surfer-friendly products with eyewear, wetsuits, small leather goods, shorts and […]
SJX Watches
Chopard marks 30 years of the Chopard Manufacture with the L.U.C Grand Strike – its most ambitious complication to date, a minute repeating clock watch with grande et petite sonnerie striking on a pair of sapphire gongs. This comes on the heels of Chopard’s sister brand, Ferdinand Berthoud’s Naissance d’une Montre 3, making 2025 arguably the most significant year for Chopard, product wise, since the 1997 launch of L.U.C. Initial Thoughts For hundreds of years the sound of clocks coordinated human society. In fact, the very word “clock” comes from the Latin word clocca, meaning bell. Before the noise pollution of the modern day, the bells of clock towers could disseminate accurate time over several miles. It is only that many first complicated the first watches, which were made by clock makers during the 16th century, were equipped with strikes. In 2016 Chopard launched its first self-developed chiming watch, the L.U.C Full Strike, a two-train trip repeater with sapphire gongs. It is not much of a surprise, I’ve multiple people speculate that a grande sonnerie was the next step given the design depictions Chopard made with the Full Strike. Even the name, “Full Strike” sounds like the name of a grande sonnerie, not just a repeater. The Grand Strike is class leading technically, it’s only weakness, the middling strike work power reserve is easily forgiven when considering its size. Aesthetically, however, the watch struggles, at least for me, though the si...
Monochrome
On the occasion of Dubai Watch Week 2025, Chopard unveils the L.U.C Grand Strike, the brand’s most complex watch to date, with a Grande Sonnerie, a Petite Sonnerie, a Minute Repeater and a tourbillon regulator. Just like the brand’s Full Strike minute repeater, its acoustic merits are nothing short of extraordinary, in particular thanks to […]
Fratello
As 2025 draws to a close, we are slowly getting ready to look back at some of this year’s best releases. But the wonderful people at Chopard said, “Hold your horses! We are not done yet.” With the stunning L.U.C Grand Strike, the brand celebrates the 30th anniversary of its manufacture in style. Incidentally, it […] Visit Chopard Celebrates The 30th Anniversary Of Its Manufacture With The Stunning L.U.C Grand Strike to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The world’s largest luxury group, Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH), just announced that it has taken a minority stake in Swiss movement manufacturer La Joux-Perret, an important supplier to the group’s watch brands as well as the industry at large. Owned by Citizen of Japan, La Joux-Perret also controls a few of its own brands, including Arnold & Son and Angelus, that will remain independent. The solar-powered TAG Heuer Formula 1 that relies on technology licensed from Citizen Initial thoughts LVMH’s investment in La Joux-Perret marks a logical next step in its long-term effort to consolidate movement production within the group. Such arrangements are becoming increasingly common - Hermès and Chanel, for instance, have taken similar minority stakes in movement makers Vaucher and Kenissi, respectively. LVMH, which owns TAG Heuer, Bulgari, Zenith, Hublot, and of course Louis Vuitton, had already hinted at this direction. Last year, Frédéric Arnault, son of Bernard Arnault and then the head of LVMH’s watch division, proposed expanding Zenith’s manufacture to supply movements to other group brands. That plan has been partly realised with Zenith now producing Bulgari’s Solotempo calibre. However, the idea of Zenith supplying a high-volume brand like TAG Heuer always seemed unlikely, which helps explain this latest move. La Joux-Perret’s solar technology for movements is particularly important to TAG Heuer, the most important watch brand in LVMH in terms o...
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