Hodinkee
Introducing: Grand Seiko Releases Two New 36.5mm Heritage Models In The 44GS Case Design (And They're Not Limited!)
GS heads gather around, there's a new hot (small) watch in town.
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Hodinkee
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Down under with Blancpain, Grand Seiko debuts new “Oruri” at GS9 event in NYC
This week, Blancpain invited our new(ish) staff writer Borna to the Great Barrier Reef to showcase their latest endeavours in the Ocean Commitment initiative. Having supported many conservation efforts over the years, Blancpain partnered with the Biopixel Oceans Foundation and their production company to make a series of documentary films and support their scientific research. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Down under with Blancpain, Grand Seiko debuts new “Oruri” at GS9 event in NYC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko Heritage Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ255 celebrates 55 Years of the 44GS
Limited editions have become a hot-button issue in the watch world, particularly in the past couple years and most people would agree that some of the best new references have come in the form of these unique releases. For this edition, Grand Seiko wanted to celebrate 55 years of their famed (and beloved) 44GS case. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko Heritage Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ255 celebrates 55 Years of the 44GS appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
GoS Imagines Aurora Borealis in Guilloche and Super-Luminova
A Swedish watchmaker founded by knife maker Johan Gustafsson and watchmaker Patrik Sjögren, Gustafsson & Sjögren (GoS) is best known for incorporating pattern-welded steel, better known as Damascus steel, in its watches. But GoS also frequently works with fellow watchmakers and artisans, à la MB&F; but at a more affordable level. Its latest watch is a five-way collaboration that combines traditional guilloche, generous Super-Luminova, and hand-made glass: the Norrsken, Swedish for northern lights, the seasonal light display seen over the North Pole. Initial thoughts The Norrsken is a departure from mainstream watchmaking, but even stands out against the increasingly crowded independent watchmaking scene. It is made up of familiar elements, like the guilloche dial and Black Badger “lume”, but of high quality and combined in an interesting, novel manner. Produced by a well-known guilloche specialist, the dial is artisanal but excellent. Similarly, the case also looks to be just as well-executed, with the bezel available in either polished or Damascus steel; though the latter makes the most sense given GoS’ speciality. And the movement comes from Schwarz Etienne (a brand that has enjoyed greater success with its movements in watches other than its own), but equipped with a micro-rotor crafted from Damascus steel. The green Damascus steel dial, seen here in a prototype And the Norrsken lives up to its name, managing to evoke northern lights, or aurora borealis, in...
Quill & Pad
Kees Engelbarts Tourbillon Organic Skeleton - Reprise
Extraordinary engraver Kees Engelbarts loves his skeletonized watches as they do very much showcase his art form. “I wanted to make another kind of skeleton watch,” he says about his creation called Tourbillon Organic Skeleton. “Most skeleton watches are, as you know, very symmetric. My plan was to make a skeleton watch without a drawing or plan before starting, by just taking away material from the base plate and bridges that is not needed.”
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: A little bit of bronze goes a long way - the Montblanc 1858 Automatic
This year sees Montblanc introduce bronze into its watch collections for the very first time – and we have to say they’ve done it in an unusual and (as is typical for the brand) very smart way. With the exception of the high-end Villeret piece, Montblanc has avoided releasing full bronze-cased watches, instead employing the distinctive … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: A little bit of bronze goes a long way – the Montblanc 1858 Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Drops New Promaster Dive 200M Models With Smaller Cases, Eco-Friendly Straps
The new Citizen Promaster Dive 200M collection trims down the case sizes, introduces eco-friendly straps, and a new dial color.
Monochrome
First Look - The New, Bolder and Sharper Hermès Cape Cod in Titanium
Since its debut in 1991, the Cape Cod has occupied a special position within the Hermès watch collection. Designed by Henri d’Origny (who also created the Arceau in 1978), its instantly recognisable “square within a rectangle” case was inspired not by an equestrian universe but by the links of an anchor chain, resulting in one […]
Time+Tide
The new Fleming Series 1 Mark II Pacific is a tantalum-cased masterclass of hand-decoration
The Fleming Series 1 Mark II Pacific has a tantalum case that to 2.5 years to develop, and a movement with 189 hand-finished interior angles.The post The new Fleming Series 1 Mark II Pacific is a tantalum-cased masterclass of hand-decoration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Citizen Attesa ACT Line: Super Titanium, 39mm Cases, Two New References
Citizen unveils two new Attesa ACT Line watches in Super Titanium with sapphire crystal, radio-controlled Eco-Drive, and a slim 39mm case priced from ~$638.
Hodinkee
Introducing: TAG Heuer Launches Two New Monaco Chronographs, Both Skeletonized With Titanium Cases, But One Made With "Laser Melting"
The new Monaco Chronograph is inspired by Formula 1 night racing while the Split-Seconds Air 1 utilizes 'Selective Laser Melting' for the case.
Monochrome
The ABCs of Time - Beyond Steel or Gold, Unusual Materials Used for Watch Cases
Stainless steel, whether 316L or 904L, is now the most common metal for modern watch cases and bracelets. There’s a good reason for this: it’s robust, highly corrosion-resistant, easy to machine and polish, and very affordable. By and large, it’s the perfect watch case material. Gold and platinum are the go-to precious metals for cases […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic, now Available in Compact 38mm Cases
One of the earliest dive watches, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has long been one of the most emblematic models available on the market. In 2007, the classic Fifty Fathoms Automatique (ref. 5015) arrived with its large (even oversized) 45mm case and calibre 1315 – two fundamental elements of the permanent collection. And this size has […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph: The Brand’s First Ceramic-Cased Captain Cook Chrono
The names are the same, but the looks are very different. A hands-on experience with the new Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph revealed strong similarities between the black-and-rose-tone model and its green sibling made of plasma high-tech ceramic. With a matte black ceramic case adorned with a rose-gold-colored PVD-coated steel turning bezel, the chronograph […] Visit Hands-On With The New Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph: The Brand’s First Ceramic-Cased Captain Cook Chrono to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128 in 40mm Gold Cases
The new Cubitus collection of sporty-chic watches by Patek Philippe was the most anticipated launch of last year but also the most discussed and commented new release of 2024. Initially released in steel, steel and gold two-tone 45mm by 8.3mm case as Cubitus 5821 time and date reference on a matching metal bracelet and as […]
Time+Tide
New silver-cased Fears Jump Hour Edwardian Edition to be sold exclusively at British Watchmakers’ Day in March
It's only the second Fears watch in a silver case in a century, its uniqueness marked by a diamond in the crown.The post New silver-cased Fears Jump Hour Edwardian Edition to be sold exclusively at British Watchmakers’ Day in March appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Vintage Watches: A Pair Of Movado Sport Models With Borgel Cases
I have handled a lot of watches over the past 30 years. To my knowledge, though, I had never held a Borgel-cased watch until sometime last year. Now I own two Borgel pieces, and they’re worth sharing. Both are Movado Sport models from the ’50s and are lovely regardless of the case maker. My interest […] Visit Vintage Watches: A Pair Of Movado Sport Models With Borgel Cases to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Blancpain Bathyscaphe now in black ceramic cases
Blancpain releases their Bathyscaphe collection with a new black ceramic case and bracelet. 8 new references, including a new Complete Calendar.
Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen evokes the ’50s with 35mm cases for the Antarctic Spider and Super Antarctic
Capitalising on the trend of reducing case sizes, Nivada Grenchen presents new 35mm sizes for the Antarctic Spider and Super Antarctic.The post Nivada Grenchen evokes the ’50s with 35mm cases for the Antarctic Spider and Super Antarctic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
New Colours and Cases for the Singer Reimagined 1969
Singer Reimagined is dropping new variants of the 1969 Chronograph and 1969 Timer that maintain the same design as the originals from last year, but with the option of a new case material, bronze, as well as new dial colours. The bronze models get a matte green dial, while the steel variants have a sun-ray, silver-toned dial. Initial thoughts An outlier amongst watch brands, Singer Reimagined is actually the sister brand of Singer Vehicle Design, one of the most prominent rebuilders of vintage Porsches. So rather than the usual watch brand making a car-inspired watch, it is a carmaker making a watch. The 1969 Timer The unusual chronograph display, retro cushion-shaped case, and racetrack-inspired bracelet all have clear automotive inspiration and are fairly unique in themselves, but for watch enthusiasts the key selling point will be the Agenhor movements (both are equipped with variants of the same base calibre). The movement is especially notable for its ingenious construction, where amongst other innovations the rotor is placed underneath the dial to provide an unobstructed view of the moving parts. The 1969 Chronograph movement Priced at CHF31,500 and CHF53,500 respectively, the 1969 Timer and the 1969 Chronograph aren’t inexpensive. While the 1969 Timer is relatively simple as a one-minute timer and consequently pricey, the chronograph is priced fairly given the unique nature of the movement. New variations of existing lineups The Singer Reimagined 1969 models share...
Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Debuts a Pair of New Aikons with PVD Coated Cases
For years we’ve been calling for watch brands in every category to embrace color, and to give us more than the standard array of white/black/blue when it comes to dial variants. And for the most part, we’ve reached a point where most watchmakers are providing consumers with a healthy choice of dial variants beyond the standard. A new release from Maurice Lacroix, however, has me wondering if case color is the next frontier. The new Aikon PVD collection, a small series of just two watches, has the brand’s popular contemporary sports watch getting a PVD coating. One in gunmetal gray (admittedly, not super uncommon) and the other in a metallic shade of dark blue. The Aikon so often spoken about as a far less expensive alternative to the Royal Oak that it’s hard not to think of AP’s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in blue ceramic when considering the blue PVD Aikon. Obviously there are enormous differences. The aforementioned Royal Oak QP is, by all accounts, one of the most sought after watches in the world, full stop. The Aikon has a cult following, but it’s nowhere near the cultural touchstone of the Royal Oak. And the AP is complicated, and the Maurice Lacroix is time only. But still, from across the room (way, way across the room) the Aikon can play tricks on you – it has a similar silhouette and is a watch in a similar style as the Royal Oak, and now you can have one in blue, if you’d like. The blue PVD version of the Aikon measures 39mm in diameter, whi...
Time+Tide
Hermès spices up the H08 collection with new colours, composite cases and a monopusher chronograph
The new Hermès H08 watches experiment with composite case materials Include exciting design features in a surprisingly smooth package We also get a preview of the Monopusher Chronograph model to be released in 2024 Creating a contemporary sports watch design that’s totally unique isn’t easy, especially when you want to keep it aesthetically accessible to … ContinuedThe post Hermès spices up the H08 collection with new colours, composite cases and a monopusher chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Gold Cases, Textured Dials, and Calculators
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Gold Longines Here’s a little gem that has loads of style and bling despite its small size. The case is solid 14k yellow gold, but is only 31mm wide, so not really for those with big wrists. What it lacks in size it makes up with design and style. The bezel is two tiered, with the bottom tier having a crosshatched texture that matches the gold dial, and the upper tier has radial grooves at each hour that also serve as the hour markers. The lugs are thin and smooth for a nice contrast. The gold dial has crosshatched texture and looks to be in great shape the printed Longines logo and applied flying hourglass badge, with thin stick hands. Quite simple and elegant, while blingy at the same time. The crown is signed which is always nice to have. No movement pics but seller states it runs and keeps time. Really great looking gold dress watch for those that like a smaller watch. View auction here. Hamilton LED Calendar Watch More gold, but this time gold plated and definitely a more ‘modern’ design than the Longines above! This vintage Hamilton LED watch has a classic future 1970’s look which is what I love about these vintage LED watches. Condition is fantastic, and the wat...
Worn & Wound
Doxa’s New Sub 200 C-Graph II is Smaller, Slimmer & Ready for Your Next Cave Dive (Or Not)
When I hear the words “Doxa Sub,” it’s hard for me to not start conjuring images in the ol’ noggin of that wide cushion, pebble-like steel case, the orange accented no-deco table splitting bezel duty with an elapsed time display, and the ever-so whimsical dial. The Sub 300 is a damn near perfect watch, in my humble opinion. But lately (over the course of two years), Doxa has given their flagship dive watch some company within their catalog by way of a couple releases that, at glance, might not resemble the Doxa you and I are used to. The brand with a storied history in the sport of diving and oceanic exploration has been doing some exploring of their own, but into different case design waters. I’m referring to their contemporary divers that use more of a conventional round case shape like the Sub 200 and the Sub 200 C-Graph. Recently, Doxa released the second coming of their Sub 200 chronograph with the Sub 200 C-Graph II. There are notable differences with the newcomer that include several models within the collection now sporting a steel bezel (as a traditional Doxa should have), a new dial finish, and smaller case proportions that amount to a more wearable, everyday diver. When the Doxa Sub 200 C-Graph was introduced in 2020, it reintroduced a chronograph into their expansive regular production diver collection. It was (and still is) a three-register chronograph that attempted to keep some of the vintage charm with its faux-patina markers. In terms of its case...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Classic Chronographs and Gold Cases
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Pierce Chronograph First up this week is a gorgeous early vintage Piece jumbo chronograph. The fancy stainless steel case measures a healthy 37mm wide, and features brilliant curved lugs with stylin’ chamfers. The case does show some light wear, but overall looks pretty sharp. The dial looks original and shows a bit of patina as it should. The up/down subdial configuration with the upper dial being larger than the lower really stands out. The hands are diamond shaped and lume filled. I’m guessing the hands have been relumed, but they look good to me. Seller states the Pierce manual wind chronograph movement has just been serviced and works perfectly. Really sharp early chrono that has lots of character. View auction here. Solid Gold Bulova Accutron Calendar Need some bling in your life? Check out this vintage 1967 killer asymmetrical solid 14k yellow gold Accutron 218. If you don’t already know, the Accutron 218 is their second generation tuning fork movement and is an absolute classic. These are great movements that usually keep great time and the batteries are readily available. This model has a vertically asymmetrical shield shaped case with skinny lugs on top and fat...
Deployant
Make mine bronze: Six recommendations for watches in bronze cases
Bronze is becoming a popular case material for some watch brands, particular for dive watches. Here are six which represent our current thoughts on bronze.
Deployant
The weird and wonderful: Six Watches with Unusually-Shaped Cases
We venture into different waters today with watches that do not conform to the norms and feature an unusually-shaped case.
Deployant
Square cased dive watches - The Bell & Ross BR03-92 Diver
Bell & Ross watches is known for its military associations, in particular from the instrument panel of the pilot’s cockpit. The BR03 line is especially iconic to the brand, as the foundational design icon for its square shaped case, and legible dial display.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. 87 Do Watch Brands Care About The Second Hand Market?
The Snobs are back to their regularly scheduled programming this week! Today, they take some time to speculate about the current "stainless steel crisis" some brands are experiencing while talking about second hand market support. Plus, in case you were wondering, Mike would totally break vegan and eat Kaz in a survival situation.
Monochrome
First Look - March LA.B Goes Dressy and Compact with the AM2 XS
March LA.B is an indie French watch brand that blends retro-inspired design with a California-French surfer lifestyle vibe. Founded in 2009 and based in Los Angeles and Biarritz – hence the LA.B in the name – the brand has a penchant for shaped cases. The flagship AM2 family, an evolution of the foundational AM1 inspired […]