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Patina vs Fauxtina

Authentic vintage aging vs deliberate factory aging on modern Tudor Black Bay, Omega 1957 Trilogy, Longines Heritage.

Introducing – The Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Moon Phase in Rose Gold Monochrome
Union Glashütte Oct 23, 2024

Introducing – The Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Moon Phase in Rose Gold

In 1893, Johannes Dürrstein, a distributor for A. Lange & Söhne, founded his own watchmaking business, which eventually evolved into what we now know as Union Glashütte. Today, the Swatch Group-owned brand is famous for keeping the traditions and aesthetics of Saxon watchmaking, offering a range of competitively priced models across seven collections. The 1893 […]

First Look – The Rose Gold & Steel Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase Monochrome
Union Glashütte Oct 21, 2024

First Look – The Rose Gold & Steel Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase

German entrepreneur Johannes Dürrstein opened a manufacture in Glashütte in 1893 to produce quality Glashütte watches at significantly lower prices than other manufacturers in town. Closed in 1933 and acquired by Swatch Group in 2000, Union Glashütte is proud of its Saxon watchmaking heritage and sticks to the founder’s policy of competitive prices. One of […]

30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore: ROO F1s, High Octane Fairy Tales of Super Star Racing Drivers Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore ROO Sep 21, 2024

30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore: ROO F1s, High Octane Fairy Tales of Super Star Racing Drivers

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore limited editions dedicated to the world of Formula 1 are one of the most interesting chapters in the history of the Offshore collection, which turns 30 this year. The release of such Offshores did not last long, from 2004 to 2012. Many of us were there, but for many everything was somehow forgotten and it is worth refreshing memories.

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” for the Visa Cash App RB F1 Team is Here Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” Jul 3, 2024

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” for the Visa Cash App RB F1 Team is Here

One of the continuing small surprises of the watch landscape over the last few years is Tudor’s building of new relationships with professional athletes and sports teams. David Beckham, of course, has been an ambassador for years, but in a relatively short period of time Tudor has established relationships in pro sailing (Alinghi Red Bull), rugby (the All Blacks), cycling (the Tudor team was actually founded back in 2018), and F1 racing. Over time, these partnerships have produced watches, and today we get the latest example, a Black Bay Ceramic with a blue dial made for the Visa Cash App RB Formula One team. The Black Bay Ceramic is one of the most under the radar Black Bays in the collection. It’s the only modern Tudor sports watch in ceramic, and up until today was available only with a black dial that complements its black ceramic case. It’s perhaps most notable though as the answer to a trivia question: what is the first Tudor to have a movement with METAS certification? When this watch was released and it was the only one in the collection with this designation, it was a truly odd thing. Tudor has since filled out their METAS line a bit, so it’s no surprise that the new Black Bay Ceramic Blue is also METAS certified.  To match the Visa Cash App team’s livery, the watch has been produced with a bright blue dial. Eagle eyed F1 fans have already spotted the watch on the wrists of team members, so it’s not a complete surprise to see it here. It obviously giv...

Introducing – The New Dial Colour of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding and Moon Phase Retrograde Date Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding Apr 11, 2024

Introducing – The New Dial Colour of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding and Moon Phase Retrograde Date

As the world’s oldest watch manufacturer in continuous production since 1755, Vacheron Constantin can be proud of its distinguished heritage. With a rich archive at its disposition, the brand can dip into over two and a half centuries for inspiration. The Patrimony collection made its debut in 2004 and turned its gaze back to the […]

Introducing – The New Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Flies in the Face of Convention Monochrome
Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Flies Apr 11, 2024

Introducing – The New Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Flies in the Face of Convention

Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Brazilian aviator, and Louis Cartier shared a passion for machines and mechanics. In 1904, Louis Cartier presented Santos-Dumont with the first purpose-designed wristwatch with a solid, rounded square case and rivets on the bezel. The idea behind the watch was to allow Santos-Dumont to consult the time in the cockpit without having […]

Introducing – The Trilobe Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise, with a Moon Phase Display Monochrome
Trilobe Mar 25, 2024

Introducing – The Trilobe Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise, with a Moon Phase Display

Trilobe, a youthful indie watchmaker established in 2018 by Gautier Massonneau, embarked on its creative journey five years prior, germinating the seeds of innovation that would blossom into its subsequent creations. The inaugural series Les Matinaux, named after René Char’s 1950 poem collection, offered a unique “no hands”, wandering time display characterised by rotating discs […]

Linde Werdelin Debuts a New Oktopus with a Bold Moon Phase Complication and Stark Contrasts Worn & Wound
Linde Werdelin Jul 19, 2023

Linde Werdelin Debuts a New Oktopus with a Bold Moon Phase Complication and Stark Contrasts

Last time we brought you news of a Linde Werdelin Oktopus, it was to highlight a limited edition project with Black Badger that took what can only be described as a maximalist approach to luminescent material. As a bonkers expression of independence and personal style, I’ve always been a fan of this type of watch, and Linde Werdelin in particular does a nice job of doing exactly their own thing (and maybe picking some well thought out collaborators along the way). The latest Oktopus, a nearly monochromatic expression of the Oktopus Moon with a case made from a space age carbon material, is an under the radar statement piece for a very specific type of watch nerd that finds big, bold sports watches from the usual suspects just a little too middle of the road.  The Oktopus Moon 3DTP White Black Ink starts with the case, specifically the material, which is a three dimensional, thin ply carbon (3D, TP, naturally). Linde Werdelin says this material differs from other carbon composite materials or forged carbon in that it uses a technique of layering ultra thin layers of carbon atop one another to achieve the desired strength while remaining very light weight. This technique apparently also allows for maximum design flexibility, and lets Linde Werdelin do its thing with the case shape of the Oktopus, which is a complex 8-sided structure with broad facets at the top of the case, adjacent to the bezel. We’ve seen a lot of highly angular, sculptural, integrated bracelet sports...

ochs und junior line Collection Gets New Moon Phase Complication Worn & Wound
Jul 5, 2023

ochs und junior line Collection Gets New Moon Phase Complication

The industrial designs of ochs und junior watches have an immense impact allowed by their near brutalistic design codes, but the sheer simplicity of their approach to complications is what really draws us in. Their perpetual calendar being the penultimate example, requiring just 9 new components within the movement to operate. Ochs und junior are bringing this level of thinking to their line collection, which we’ve covered since its inception, with the introduction of a new moonphase capable of remaining accurate for 3,478.27 years before being off by a single day. In true ochs und junior fashion, they’ve accomplished this with the addition of just 5 additional parts to the ETA 2824-2 movement.  The new line watch is called the moon phase / selene, and it brings the moon to the dial in a unique manner, as you may have guessed when it comes to ochs und junior. There is a large moon phase aperture cut through through the bottom portion of the dial, with a monochromatic representation of the moon at opposing ends of a rotating disc. Dots underneath the dial represent each day, and each phase that the moon passes through. The remainder of the dial is rendered almost entirely in ochs blue, creating a rather serene experience of the romantic complication, save for the silver hour markers at each even hour. The total aesthetic here is classic ochs und junior, with minimal representation of the core components, and an untouched, raw experience of the materials at use. The two...

Editorial: All the Fuss Over a “Franken” Omega Speedmaster SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Earlier Jun 9, 2023

Editorial: All the Fuss Over a “Franken” Omega Speedmaster

Earlier this week, leading Swiss-German newspapers Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ) published a lengthy story about the possible fraud behind the record-setting sale of an Omega Speedmaster ref. 2915-1 at Phillips in 2021. Mystifying at the time, the CHF3.12 million result was a huge number that far exceeded past records for that particular Speedmaster. As NZZ revealed in its story, the Speedmaster in question was a “Franken” watch pieced together from assorted vintage components – and some fake parts – and it was purchased by Omega itself, on the advice of its then museum head. The allegations are that the then museum head was in cahoots with the seller of the watch. Omega has gone to the police with this, and also released a statement, noting in part, “Omega and Phillips were the joint victims of organised criminal activity involving the selling of this specific watch by auction.” The Omega Museum, which fortunately has enough correct and legitimate vintage Speedmasters on display. Image – Omega Both Omega and Phillips should have done more due diligence, but it appears a few bad actors were diligent in allegedly defrauding Omega. For more on the matter, Dutch watch publication Fratello published an excellent examination of the happenings. The alleged fraud has been covered widely in the mass media, from Bloomberg to Fortune, ironically the same publications that last year touted the success and value-appreciation of the Speedmaster. Mountains and molehills The ...

ochs & junior Gives Us Two Time Zones Without the Fuss Worn & Wound
Zodiac Mar 6, 2023

ochs & junior Gives Us Two Time Zones Without the Fuss

Dual time watches have enjoyed a resurgence in popularity thanks to a new crop of movements boasting variations of the complication, and that’s a very good thing, netting us new GMT watches like this Seiko, this Zodiac, and this Lorca, among many others. What’s rarer is a novel take on presenting the complication. That’s exactly what we get from a new watch from ochs & junior, which ditches the fourth hand altogether, and provides a second set of adjustable hour markers instead. This is the ochs line two time zones aka the due ore raw. The traditional GMT configuration is lauded for its simplicity which boils down to a 24 hand dutifully lapping the dial once each day, usually accompanied by a set of 24 hour markers against which to read it independently of the 12 hour markers for the local time. There are plenty of exceptions, of course, but not nearly enough in the sub-exotic realm. The Nomos Zürich world time is one such example, and now this ochs & junior represents another such breath of fresh air. The two time zones seen here utilizes the classic ETA 2824-2 that’s been modified to host a disc containing a set of hour markers in Arabic numeral form under the dial. The standard 31-tooth date disc has been replaced with a 48-tooth disk that’s independently adjustable through the crown. This makes for an intuitive display that’s easily managed and read. Simply add or subtract the difference between your home and local time zones and set the display accordingl...