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Results for Plan-les-Ouates

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Plan-les-Ouates

Geneva industrial suburb; modern manufactures of Patek Philippe (1996), Vacheron Constantin (2005), Piaget (2001), Rolex case-making.

Omega Upgrades the Aqua Terra 150M Turquoise with a Ceramic Bezel SJX Watches
Omega Upgrades Aug 15, 2025

Omega Upgrades the Aqua Terra 150M Turquoise with a Ceramic Bezel

Omega continues its trickle of summer releases with the Aqua Terra 150M Turquoise, which has its smoked turquoise dial now matched with a black ceramic bezel for a cohesive look. Available in both 38 mm and 41 mm formats, the new Aqua Terra is pricier and arguably less versatile than the standard Aqua Terra, yet is strongly appealing – is the blue worth the green? Initial Thoughts The ceramic mania that gripped the industry a few years ago has cooled, but the material is here to stay, and this example is all the better for it. We’ve already seen this dial on a pair of bracelet-borne Aqua Terra earlier this year. Now it’s back with an integrated rubber strap and complementary black ceramic bezel. Even though this lacks the bracelet of the all-steel version, it’s more expensive, priced at about US$1,000 over the steel model on a bracelet. The retail price of US$7,300 is still affordable, and acceptable given the level of quality, but the value proposition is less clear. While the Aqua Terra’s boardwalk-to-boardroom versatility makes it a prime candidate for someone’s sole, “go anywhere, do anything” watch, the exotic colour palette and lack of a bracelet rule it out as such for most people. Instead, I imagine Omega is targeting brand fans who are less price-sensitive looking for a summer watch. Even for an owner of more than one Omega, the new Aqua Terra is different enough to make it interesting. Deja Blue While no longer novel, the fume turquoise dial rema...

Introducing: A Nod To Finnish War-Time Aviation In The New S.U.F. Helsinki Myrsky MY-G Pinefrost Fratello
Aug 7, 2025

Introducing: A Nod To Finnish War-Time Aviation In The New S.U.F. Helsinki Myrsky MY-G Pinefrost

Introducing the S.U.F. Helsinki Myrsky MY-G Pineforst, a new limited edition from the Finnish brand. This time, the pilot’s watch, inspired by a WWII-era Finnish fighter plane, comes with a lovely Pinefrost green dial. There is plenty to unpack here, so let’s dive straight in. The new S.U.F. Helsinki Myrsky MY-G Pinefrost is limited to […] Visit Introducing: A Nod To Finnish War-Time Aviation In The New S.U.F. Helsinki Myrsky MY-G Pinefrost to read the full article.

Introducing - Playing with Distortion… Meet the new Anoma A1 Optical Monochrome
Anoma Aug 4, 2025

Introducing - Playing with Distortion… Meet the new Anoma A1 Optical

Anoma, the indie microbrand founded in London by Matteo Violet-Vianello, derives its name from “anomaly”, indicating its less-than-conventional approach to design. Taking design cues from art, architecture and nature, the brand is making a name for itself with its shaped watch case. The brand’s first watch, the sculptural A1 with a rounded triangular case inspired […]

Hands On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar SJX Watches
Patek Philippe alumni who caught his Aug 1, 2025

Hands On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar

Roger Dubuis is celebrating 30 years by looking back on its days as a trend-setting independent. The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar deftly balances the spirit of Genevan watchmaking from the brand’s early years in the 1990s with the boisterous designs of the 2000s in a manageable size, but less manageable price. While the style is reminiscent of the oversized Excalibur models that were far from ergonomic, the Biretrograde Calendar has been redesigned for wearability. The retrograde calendar mechanism on the front is an in-house construction, built on top of the brand’s own automatic movement that is unexpectedly sophisticated and classical. Initial Thoughts Roger Dubuis is a marque built on calendars, so the new Excalibur has historical resonance. The late Roger Dubuis was a Patek Philippe alumni who caught his big break working with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, who would go on to found Agenhor, on a double retrograde perpetual calendar developed for New York jeweller Harry Winston. It was during the project that Dubuis met his future business partner, Carlos Dias, an entrepreneur who would help establish the Roger Dubuis brand and transform it into a hit maker in the 2000s. The same double retrograde perpetual calendar mechanism would accompany the first Roger Dubuis model the brand’s debut in 1995. And the retrograde calendar also has a historical connection to Geneva, as a local watchmaker named Marius LeCoultre created the most prolific retrograde perpetual design of ...

Rolex Land-Dweller Review Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Jul 31, 2025

Rolex Land-Dweller Review

It's no understatement to say that the Rolex Land-Dweller was the talk of Watches & Wonders 2025, which took place in Geneva a few months ago. A new Rolex collection with an integrated bracelet and a brand new movement? Well, we would expect no less. There is something fundamentally earth-shaking about massive shifts in the Rolex atmosphere. Mixed metaphors aside, just because we have seen Rolex develop and launch an entirely new collection quite recently (with the 1908, released just two years ago, in 2023), it doesn’t make it normal. Before that it was the Sky-Dweller, and years before that, there were variations on the Yacht-Master. The launch of the Land-Dweller proved to be one of those milestone moments.  The Land-Dweller is the product of 18 new patents specific to this watch, as Rolex has developed an entirely new watch both inside and out. No, this is not a new complication, but it is a brand-new approach to timekeeping. It marks the first development of a new escapement system at this scale since the arrival of the Co-Axial escapement from Omega some twenty-five ago. In short this is big news. As you likely have seen by now, Teddy and I had the chance to see this watch up close and personal ahead of this year's Watches & Wonders a few months ago (you can find our full video hands-on review on YouTube now) and were also lucky enough to do it prior to a lot of the pre-release noise really reaching peak volume. That is to say, we were able to learn about the mech...

Hands-On With The New Nezumi Corbeau CQ4.702 - Featuring Black DLC And A Pop Of Color Fratello
Jul 28, 2025

Hands-On With The New Nezumi Corbeau CQ4.702 - Featuring Black DLC And A Pop Of Color

Nezumi is one of those microbrands that I always follow closely. I like its overall retro style, but that’s only half of the story because plenty of brands release new watches based on historical designs. What makes Nezumi stand out is the use of color. The brand often uses less obvious color combinations. I like […] Visit Hands-On With The New Nezumi Corbeau CQ4.702 - Featuring Black DLC And A Pop Of Color to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: Are Watches Too Expensive? And Discussing Bundling. SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Tribute Jul 21, 2025

SJX Podcast: Are Watches Too Expensive? And Discussing Bundling.

This week’s podcast starts with two hot topics – retail prices of watches and “bundling”, or having to buy one watch (or several) in order to get something desirable. The episode also includes several watches we covered recently, including the Vacheron Constantin “Tribute to the Celestial” and the Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Introducing - The New MeisterSinger 24-Hour Edition With Blue Dial Monochrome
MeisterSinger Jul 15, 2025

Introducing - The New MeisterSinger 24-Hour Edition With Blue Dial

Taking its inspiration from yesteryear’s rudimentary tower and table clocks, MeisterSinger has built a solid brand and rich collection around a rather unusual premise: all its watches are equipped with a single hand. The philosophy behind the single hand is to offer a more leisurely, less manic approach to timekeeping in our information-saturated lives. The latest […]

Hands-on - The Majestic Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 Monochrome
Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 Jul 9, 2025

Hands-on - The Majestic Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035

A 250th anniversary is already a remarkable achievement for a watch brand, but a 250th anniversary celebrating the undisputed horological star of the 18th century, Abraham-Louis Breguet, is quite another. Pulling out all the stops to commemorate this illustrious milestone, Breguet has released a series of anniversary editions, including the magnificent Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 […]

Hands-On With The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure - California-Made Classicism Fratello
Jul 7, 2025

Hands-On With The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure - California-Made Classicism

Los Angeles-based brand J.N. Shapiro Watches has achieved a somewhat mythical status since Josh Shapiro founded it in 2018. The watches are elusive and exclusive creations that dent your budget and test your patience. What if you don’t have US$75,000 to spend and/or lack the mental stamina to wait around three years for your watch? […] Visit Hands-On With The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure - California-Made Classicism to read the full article.

Breguet Unveils First-Ever Flying Tourbillon with Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 SJX Watches
Breguet Unveils First-Ever Flying Tourbillon Jun 26, 2025

Breguet Unveils First-Ever Flying Tourbillon with Tourbillon Sidéral 7255

Breguet celebrates a milestone by looking to the stars with the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255, which is the brand’s first flying tourbillon and also dressed up with an aventurine enamel dial. The Tourbillon Sidéral is the brand’s latest anniversary edition – and the most complicated so far – coming after the Classique Souscription and more recent Type XX 2075BH. Initial Thoughts Abraham-Louis Breguet’s workshop only built between 40 to 49 tourbillons in his lifetime, explaining the mythical rarity of the mechanism in historical watchmaking. Now more tourbillons are built in a single day – possibly even by a single brand – than during Breguet’s entire lifetime. Consequently, the tourbillon is no longer regarded with the reverence it enjoyed for centuries. Tourbillons aren’t inherently special today, but still have appeal when executed well; the whole of the parts can be more than the sum of the parts. The Tourbillon Sidéral is executed well and appealing. Flying tourbillon aside, the rest of the watch is very good, though not ground breaking. As with Breguet’s other 250th anniversary models, the Tourbillon Sidéral is more interesting aesthetically than technically since the movement is derived from the longstanding Lemania calibre. That approach will change as the year’s end approaches as Breguet has something bigger in the pipeline. For now, the Tourbillon Sidéral is an excellent watch that may suffer under the weight of expectations, but per...

First Look - The New Platinum & Salmon Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon Monochrome
Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon Jun 26, 2025

First Look - The New Platinum & Salmon Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon

The small German town of Glashütte is steeped in watchmaking history, as we all know. No less than 12 brands, from high-end to more accessible, are nestled there, making it the historic and beating heart of German mechanical watchmaking. Being able to bear the town’s name on one’s dial is also something quite special, as […]

Hands-On With The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Two-Tone For Those Who Don’t Like Two-Tone Fratello
Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 Jun 18, 2025

Hands-On With The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Two-Tone For Those Who Don’t Like Two-Tone

A little less than a month ago, we saw the introduction of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925. The watch commemorates 100 years of Longines dual-time watches in a rather bold fashion. Its rose-gold-capped bezel and matching gold dial details set it apart from any other Spirit Zulu Time. I was immediately intrigued by this […] Visit Hands-On With The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Two-Tone For Those Who Don’t Like Two-Tone to read the full article.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Bulova s MIL-SHIPS Went from Jun 7, 2025

How Bulova’s MIL-SHIPS Went from Top Secret to Top Shelf

In the world of military-issued watches, some models are legendary. Others are ghost stories-rare prototypes whispered about among collectors, their existence confirmed only through archival fragments or the occasional sighting in the wild. The Bulova MIL-SHIPS-W-2181 falls somewhere between the two, and for the first time in decades, one of the few surviving examples is surfacing in public-on the block at Sotheby’s, no less. A Mission-Critical Beginning To understand why this watch matters, you need to rewind to 1955. Amid Cold War tensions and escalating naval operations, the U.S. Navy sought a robust dive watch for its elite underwater teams-specifically, the Underwater Demolition Teams (UDT) and Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) units, the forebears of modern Navy SEALs. The specifications they drafted, known as MIL-SHIPS-W-2181, called for something no commercial watch at the time quite delivered: water resistance beyond 400 feet, excellent night visibility, a highly legible dial, and a locking, unidirectional bezel. The post How Bulova’s MIL-SHIPS Went from Top Secret to Top Shelf appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Introducing: The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure Fratello
Jun 6, 2025

Introducing: The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure

I have had the pleasure of meeting Josh Shapiro, owner of the eponymously named J.N. Shapiro Watches, several times. Hailing from Los Angeles, he has a wealth of knowledge about watchmaking history, movements, and finishing techniques. Until now, he has focused on exclusive and expensive watches with prices over $75,000 and wait times of nearly […] Visit Introducing: The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure to read the full article.

J.N. Shapiro Debuts Entry-Level Infinity Series Pure SJX Watches
Hamilton shut down Jun 4, 2025

J.N. Shapiro Debuts Entry-Level Infinity Series Pure

J.N. Shapiro’s Infinity Series Pure is a new entry point into the American brand. This follows the top-of-the-line Resurgence, the most American-made mechanical wristwatch built since Hamilton shut down in the 1960s. This new model focuses purely on the dial and hands, which are excellent, while trusting Swiss suppliers with ancillary details like the case and caliber. The result is a much more accessible, though less impressive, watch than J.N. Shapiro’s usual fare. Initial Thoughts When the original Infinity line was discontinued in 2023, it left the brand without an entry-level watch, and the company put all of its efforts behind the ambitious Resurgence project. Now that things have settled down, the team once again has the bandwidth to support a second model. The Infinity Series Pure uses an off-the-shelf La Joux-Perret (LJP) movement. While a good, slim movement with an extended power reserve, the LJP F200/7380 isn’t particularly premium, and a downgrade from the UWD cal. 33.1 used in previous infinity models. For example, Ralph Lauren uses the LJP movement in its Vintage 67 line priced at around US$3,000. The case is also outsourced, likely to a Swiss manufacturer, through the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA), a consortium of independent brands that J.N. Shapiro helped found. This focuses all of Shapiro’s attention on the dial and hands, though both are significantly less complex than on the Resurgence. At US$26,000 the Infinity Series Pure is about a ...

New Rolex Oyster Perpetual Dial Colors You May Have Missed Fratello
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Dial Colors May 24, 2025

New Rolex Oyster Perpetual Dial Colors You May Have Missed

Though it’s quite easy to forget this when looking at the watch world, sometimes less is more, and simpler is better. Simpler, however, is often much harder to get right. Poor design is easily covered in layers of otherwise unnecessary embellishments. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual presents simplicity at its very finest. Rolex added two new […] Visit New Rolex Oyster Perpetual Dial Colors You May Have Missed to read the full article.

MB&F; Launches an Entirely New Collection for their 20th Anniversary with the SP One Worn & Wound
MB&F; May 20, 2025

MB&F; Launches an Entirely New Collection for their 20th Anniversary with the SP One

Would you expect anything less from MB&F; on their 20th anniversary than the launch of an entirely new collection? The independent brand founded by Max Büsser has spent the last two decades confounding expectations, delighting enthusiasts and collectors along the way with some of the brazen and creative watch designs of the modern era. The brand’s influence and importance on the modern independent watch scene really can’t be overstated. To date, MB&F; releases have existed on two distinct tracks: the LM or “Legacy Machine” collection, which represents Max Büsser’s idea of a classical watchmaking style (think circular cases, classical complications, and a generally traditional if sometimes highly complex readout of the time), and the HM, or “Horological Machine” collection, which can be described as pure, maximalist creativity. This is where you see watches shaped like dogs, and spaceships, with time read in unusual and unexpected ways. While you’d think that working within two collections in this manner (particularly where one is seemingly unbound by traditional watchmaking rules) Max and his team would have the freedom to create just about anything they set their mind to. In reality, of course, there are always projects that don’t reach the finish line for one reason or another. The SP One (SP is short for “Special Projects”) represents an entirely new product category for MB&F; with the promise of reviving these projects and creating entirely new one...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Railmaster (2025) Vs. Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M (38mm) Fratello
Omega Railmaster 2025 Vs Seamaster May 18, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Railmaster (2025) Vs. Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M (38mm)

This week, Omega launched two new versions of its 38mm Railmaster. One features a gray gradient dial, while the other has a beige gradient dial. They share a flat, matte, time-only layout, which sets them apart from the current Seamaster Aqua Terra lineup. The new Railmaster is also €1,000 less expensive than the similarly specced […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Railmaster (2025) Vs. Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M (38mm) to read the full article.

The Evergreens - The History of the Rolex Sea-Dweller, The Crown’s Ultimate Dive Watch Monochrome
Rolex Sea-Dweller May 16, 2025

The Evergreens - The History of the Rolex Sea-Dweller, The Crown’s Ultimate Dive Watch

Rolex is no stranger to niche models, specifically ones that specialise in less-than-mainstream purposes. The Milgauss, for example, was designed for scientists at CERN in the 1950s to withstand magnetic fields up to 1,000 gauss. Outside of this rather limited environment, it didn’t have much consumer appeal until its much later years and final models […]

Collective Horology’s Open House LA Event Is Back For 2025 Fratello
May 8, 2025

Collective Horology’s Open House LA Event Is Back For 2025

If you’re in Los Angeles or just looking for an excuse to be, make sure Saturday, June 7th, is on your radar. That’s when Collective Horology’s Open House returns for its second year. If you’ve got even a passing interest in independent watchmaking, this is the kind of event you’ll want to check out, especially […] Visit Collective Horology’s Open House LA Event Is Back For 2025 to read the full article.

Auctions: Lavish and Exotic Cartier Clocks at Phillips SJX Watches
Cartier Clocks May 6, 2025

Auctions: Lavish and Exotic Cartier Clocks at Phillips

The spring auction season kicks off in less than a week, and while there are many interesting lots worthy of attention, there are a few museum-grade Cartier clocks at Phillips that demand a close look. All made between 1905 and 1940, the most exceptional pieces date to the roaring twenties when Cartier was synonymous with Art Deco extravagance. The lots are spread across two auctions – Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, which takes place on May 10th and 11th, and Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX which takes place from May 23rd to May 25th. There are three important mystery clocks hitting the block, the most significant being portico clock No. 3, along with a handful of artfully engraved jade desk clocks. Rounding out the bunch, an amusing prism clock should keep things interesting for those bidding with smaller budgets. An introduction to Cartier mystery clocks In the early twentieth century, Cartier was on top of the world. England’s King Edward VII had just granted the firm a royal warrant, calling Cartier the “jeweler of kings” and, perhaps more significantly, “The king of jewelers.” But the Parisian firm wasn’t coasting on this praise, and shortly thereafter stunned the world with a clock with hands that appeared to float in space. This ‘mysterious’ effect was achieved by attaching the hands to rotating glass plates that were driven from the edge. The first such clock was the Modèle A, which debuted in 1912. A Cartier Modèle A. Image – Phillips The mystery cl...

Celebrating 60 Years Of The Omega Speedmaster Becoming NASA Flight Qualified Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Becoming NASA Flight May 6, 2025

Celebrating 60 Years Of The Omega Speedmaster Becoming NASA Flight Qualified

As I landed in Zurich last Monday, I wondered what flying must have been like 60 years ago. Besides the cigarette smoke, one of the most significant differences would’ve been the vital role that analog tools played in guiding the plane to its destination and doing so safely and on time. Today, it feels as […] Visit Celebrating 60 Years Of The Omega Speedmaster Becoming NASA Flight Qualified to read the full article.