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Introducing: The Bulgari Titanio Chronograph And GMT Hodinkee
Bulgari Titanio Chronograph Sep 2, 2026

Introducing: The Bulgari Titanio Chronograph And GMT

What We Know On the quieter side of Bulgari's releases for Geneva Watch Days this year, we have the titanium expression of the brand's expanding range of material-based models that follow elements of the design language of the Diagono. Following the models in aluminum and last year's release of the Bronzo GMT and Chronograph, we now have the Bulgari Titanio, which offers both a dual-time model and an automatic chronograph.  The pair follows the established Bulgari format closely, modifying the recipe only for the use of grade 5 in this case, the bracelet articulation links, and the buckle. The Titanio Chronograph is 41mm wide with a sandblasted and satin-finished case that is 12.35mm thick. The Titanio GMT follows the same format, but with a 40mm case that is 9.7mm thick. Water resistance is 100 meters for both, and both come with a black rubber strap with titanium links and buckle. A titanium bracelet is an available option, but no pricing details are offered.  The bezel, crown, and pushers are rendered in a black DLC finish, and both models feature a matte black dial with grey galvanic treatments on the hands. The Titanio Chronograph is powered by the Bulgari B381 automatic, which is based on the Sellita SW300 with a Dubois-Dépraz module; it is a 4 Hz movement with a date at 4:30, a 50-hour power reserve, and a maximum chronograph measure of 12 hours.  For the Titanio GMT, Bulgari employs the B192 automatic, which is based on the Sellita SW-330 and offers "caller-sty...

Introducing: Czapek's New Quai des Bergues And Place Vendôme Complicité Hodinkee
Czapek s New Quai des Sep 1, 2026

Introducing: Czapek's New Quai des Bergues And Place Vendôme Complicité

What We Know Only seven years ago, Czapek, a brand over 180 years old, opened its first modern boutique in Geneva, right next to the brand's original workshop from 1839. Soon after, it opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris. Its first collection, called "Quai des Bergues," celebrated the first boutique; another collection celebrated that boutique in France. Now, the brand has reopened its Geneva boutique with a new look and is celebrating with a new watch from each collection. The newest Quai des Bergues "Midnight in Geneva" uses the brand's proprietary SXH1 hand-wound movement, cased in a mid-sized 40.5mm by 11.9mm stainless steel case with sandblasted, hollowed-out lugs. The watch is an impressive bit of watchmaking in a really elegant form. The watch has a power reserve indicator, weekday indicator, and subsidiary seconds, but the power reserve is a massive 7 days. The elegance comes in part from a beautiful dark blue aventurine dial with silver powder-coated steel Fleur-de-Lys hands, printed elongated Roman numerals, and a chemin de fer outer track. The watch, with a 50-meter water resistance, is limited to 18 pieces and retails for $28,600. The Place Vendôme Complicité Glacier Blue is a new treatment for the brand's open-worked double-escapement watch created in collaboration with Bernhard Lederer. While the previous watch was technically impressive but visually reserved, the Place Vendôme Complicité puts complexity at the forefront. The watch fe...

Introducing: Chopard L.U.C. 1963 Heritage Regulator And L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph Limited Editions Hodinkee
Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator Sep 1, 2026

Introducing: Chopard L.U.C. 1963 Heritage Regulator And L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph Limited Editions

What We Know While not a part of Geneva Watch Days (which starts this week), Chopard is preempting the show a bit with two new 25-piece limited editions in their L.U.C. line—the brand's in-house haute horlogerie division. The first up (and more expensive of the two) is the L.U.C. 1963 Heritage Regulator, a 40mm by 10.3mm watch in 18k ethical white gold with 30m water resistance. The dial—which conveys hours (in a subdial), regulator-style minutes, GMT, power reserve, running seconds, and date—is a sunburst-finished silver tone with blue-transferred numbers. The caseback showcases the manually wound, four-barrel (in series) L.U.C 98.02-L movement layout that delivers a massive 9 days of power (part of the Chopard Quattro technology). This kind of high-power-reserve movement has become pretty normalized for Chopard and, because of that, I don't think it gets the appreciation it deserves. The movement, running at 4Hz, is also fantastically finished and features a Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, plus COSC accuracy certification. As mentioned, the L.U.C. 1963 Heritage Regulator is limited to 25 pieces and is now available, retailing for $50,900. On the sportier end of things is the 42mm by 11.48mm 1963 Heritage Chronograph cased in Lucent Steel. It features a deep blue sunburst-polished, galvanic-treated dial, an eggshell-colored printed dial, and Rhodium-plated white gold hands for the hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, and 30-minute and 12-hour counters. The wa...

The Tudor Northflag Returns Sharper and Stronger SJX Watches
Tudor Northflag Returns Sharper Sep 1, 2026

The Tudor Northflag Returns Sharper and Stronger

A decade after it first debuted, Tudor has revived the Northflag. Originally a 1970s-inspired sports watch to showcase Tudor’s first-ever in-house movement, the Northflag has been upgraded inside and out. The rebooted Northflag gains a GMT function plus refinements all round, ranging from superior detailing on the case to lume blocks on the dial. And the movement is now a Master Chronometer, while the price stays true to Tudor’s value-oriented focus at just over US$5,500. Initial thoughts The original North Flag was a bit quirky with its power reserve indicator, and also probably ahead of its time; a Tudor with an in-house movement seemed like an odd concept back then. I liked it then, but the North Flag wasn’t a commercial success, so it is surprising that Tudor has revived the model. But the new Northflag is an immediately appealing watch, reflecting Tudor’s advancements in design, manufacturing, and branding. In fact, the Northflag is one of the most interesting watches in the current Tudor catalogue, alongside the equally recent Monarch. Although practically everything Tudor makes is well priced and an easy recommendation, almost all of Tudor’s best watches are variations of the Oyster case and Black Bay diver. The Northflag, on the other hand, is something else entirely. The angular, 1970s-style case is different, as is the dial. But all the elements are harmonious, and the design works. This is one of my strongest recommendations in the Tudor line-up today,...

Hands-On: The M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese Hodinkee
Corum Golden Bridge Photo courtesy Sep 1, 2026

Hands-On: The M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese

Today marks the introduction of the M.A.D.3, the third entry in the MB&F; spinoff, M.A.D.Editions brand. If you've spent the past few years entering raffle after raffle in hopes of securing a watch from the brand, this new design may offer another opportunity in this game of chance. The groundbreaking first entry in the series came from the mind of none other than Max Büsser, and the very different follow-up was spearheaded by prominent watch designer and frequent MB&F; collaborator Eric Giroud. This third edition taps into a watchmaker who, while quite a bit further out from the direct radius of MB&F;, has always maintained a philosophy on the expression of time in a very similar vein. An example of a Corum Golden Bridge. Photo courtesy of Das Kunst- und Auktionshaus Kastern GmbH & Co.KG. Calabrese's Baladin. Photo courtesy Christie's. Vincent Calabrese, though not necessarily a household name like many of his contemporaries, is certainly a legend. He's the man responsible for the iconic floating-movement architecture of the Corum Golden Bridge and the co-founder of the independent watchmaking consortium Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI, as you might more commonly know it). And among the dozens of patents behind his name, and many inventive executions of complications, he's always played with the concept of displaying the time. So I suppose Calabrese and Büsser are a match made in heaven, and here, we have the M.A.D.3 edition in all of its bright, sa...

Atelier Wen and Massena LAB Collaborate on a Limited Edition Inflection Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Collaborate Aug 31, 2026

Atelier Wen and Massena LAB Collaborate on a Limited Edition Inflection

When it comes to watchmaking, it’s usually a marathon not a sprint. Bringing a model to life is a lesson in patience, and, well, timing. A tale we often hear about how a watch came to be starts with a chance meeting, some curiosity or perhaps even instant synergy, and then intention and hard work. This echoes the origin story of the new Atelier Wen x Massena LAB Inflection Shuò, the brainchild of William Massena, founder of Massena LAB, along with Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, the co-founders of Atelier Wen. The collaboration takes the name “Shuò,” from the Chinese character 烁, which can be translated as “sparkling,” “glittering,” or “radiant.” This aptly describes the shimmering and reflective qualities of hand tremblage – the rare and demanding decorative craft that graces the dial. For the new collaboration, the technique has been entirely executed by hand engraving specialist Coralie Mercier on behalf of GT Cadrans. To achieve the beautiful finish, Mercier pushes a graver across the 18-karat gold surface of the dial while continuously oscillating it. This meticulous work slowly develops a texture thanks to thousands of tiny irregular facets. The tremblage portion of the main dial plate lays the foundation with a radially brushed sector of either white gold or rose gold creating a border. The smooth contrast of this portion around the periphery houses the hour markers. Here, the brands offer a playful twist on the California dial layout w...

Hands-On With Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase: A Complicated Classic, Refined WatchAdvice
Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase Aug 28, 2026

Hands-On With Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase: A Complicated Classic, Refined

I’ve had the chance to take the newly redesigned Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase for review to see how the subtle refinements elevate this complicated favourite! What We Love Refined, less cluttered dial design Exceptional complications for the price Beautifully matched blue leather strap What We Don’t Limited 30m water resistance Substantial thickness for smaller wrists Busy display may not be to everyone’s liking. Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value For Money: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 There are few watches that bring together Longines’ classical design language and mechanical expertise as completely as the Master Collection Chrono Moonphase. This is one of my favourite Longines models, and I have finally had the opportunity to review the latest evolution of one of the brand’s most iconic timepieces. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) Longines first introduced the Master Collection in 2005 to showcase its traditional watchmaking expertise through an entirely mechanical collection. It was created as a meeting point between the brand’s classical elegance and its ability to produce increasingly complicated mechanical timepieces. This distinguished the Master Collection from Longines’ sportier models through its more traditional dial designs, decorative finishing, and mechanical complications. The 1911 Longines pocket watch serves as the inspiration behind the aesthetics of the Chr...

eBay Finds: Great Vintage Watches from Seiko, Hamilton, Zodiac, and More! Worn & Wound
Hamilton Zodiac Aug 28, 2026

eBay Finds: Great Vintage Watches from Seiko, Hamilton, Zodiac, and More!

eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage CompuChron LED You gotta love a good vintage LED, especially when it comes with the box and papers! This example is a nice, chunky CompuChron in stainless steel. The space-age steel case is excellent with sharp edges and original mix of brushed and polished finishes. The LED screen looks nice and clear, and the printed CompuChron logo is crisp. The watch comes on the correct and original integrated steel bracelet with a signed buckle. Best of all it comes with the original box and instruction manual, which is always handy. The watch runs and all the LED segments light up. Really fun piece that’s in amazing condition.  View auction here Vintage Seiko Seikomatic  Here is a sweet vintage Seiko Seikomatic from 1966. Seller doesn’t state, but this should be a 38mm case size. The case looks unpolished with sharp edges on the cool, angular lugs. The classic Seiko silver dial is clean, with nice clear writing and applied steel baton markers. Steel dauphine hands and an unusual date at 3 o’clock with day at 6 o’clock complete the look. The small crown is recessed at 4 o’clock. The serial number on the caseback dates this one to January 1966. The automatic movement is clean and...

Hands On: Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Ref. 5236P-011 “Gradient Silver” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Ref 5236P-011 Aug 28, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Ref. 5236P-011 “Gradient Silver”

Patek Philippe’s latest take on its flagship perpetual calendar is the In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P-011 with a “gradient silver” dial. Though a cosmetic update to a model that’s only been in production since 2021, the new dial is unexpectedly appealing, giving the watch a striking different feel from its predecessors. Patek Philippe’s most advanced calendar movement, the cal. 31-260 PS QL inside the ref. 5236P is a latest-generation base movement matched with a newly-developed perpetual calendar module. The movement is now in the third generation of the reference; the ref. 5236P-011 replaces the ref. 5236P-010 with a “rose gilt” dial that was only in the catalogue for two years. Initial thoughts The ref. 5236P-011 is a new face for an existing model. Though the design remains unchanged, the dial finish that darkens towards the edges gives it a more modern feel. The composite strap adds to the modern feel, though the strap might be a bit too sporty for the watch. Paradoxically, the smoked dial finish also brings to mind aged or “tropical” dials on vintage watches. The rest of the watch stays the same, but it’s a good one. The ref. 5236P is an impressive watch in both technical and physical terms – it’s the brand’s most advanced perpetual calendar and also its largest. The size and weight are reassuring, and actually bring to mind complicated models from a rival brand from Germany. But the case is made up of lots of flat surfaces and entir...

Hands-On: The Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Cardinal Points Aug 27, 2026

Hands-On: The Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller

There were three watches I was disappointed to have missed at Watches & Wonders. To be fair, I missed all the releases at Watches & Wonders this year, but in my mind, the three most interesting watches from the show were the Vacheron Constantin Overseas "Cardinal Points," the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux, and this watch from Laurent Ferrier: the Sport Traveller. I like the Laurent Ferrier brand a lot. But I've been wondering whether, in hindsight, I was a bit harsh on their entry-level Sport Auto when it was released in 2023. I liked the watch in theory, but in practice I had a few minor issues with the bracelet fit and tolerance, the thickness, and the price. I know a few people who own the watch, and my feelings have softened over time. But reading that old review, I wonder if I was right or just picking nits. This year's release of the Sport Traveller combined one of my two favorite complications—travel time/GMT—with lightweight titanium, which seems to be le matériel du jour.  It also gave me a chance to reevaluate my take on the watch, especially in a market that's become even more crowded and an audience that's more price-sensitive. Let's tackle the specs first and then move on to the feelings. Measuring 42mm by 13.3mm thick in grade 5 titanium, with 100m of water resistance, the watch is only 0.5mm wider and 0.6mm thicker than the original Sport Auto, which shows the strength of the movement design in being able to pack an extra complic...

Doxa and Belmont Watches Team Up for the Sub 300 Beta “Frogger” Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Rado Aug 27, 2026

Doxa and Belmont Watches Team Up for the Sub 300 Beta “Frogger” Limited Edition

Doxa is on a historic, Anne Hathaway-like tear in 2026. The Oscar winning actress will appear in a total of five films by the end of the year, including The Odyssey (a huge hit), The Devil Wears Prada II (also a huge hit), and Mother Mary (very much not a hit but one of my personal favorites of the year so far). Doxa, similarly, is on a bit of a heater, releasing the Sub 200 T.Graph, a well received collaboration with Hodinkee, a Clive Cussler LE, and another LE with Topper Jewelers all in rapid succession. This week, they show that they still have some gas left in the tank for an additional late summer release, this time with San Diego based Belmont Watches.  The new Doxa Sub 300 Beta “Frogger” plays into the military history of San Diego. The city is currently home to the Naval Amphibious Base Colorado and SEAL Team 1, and was formerly the headquarters of the Navy Underwater Demolition Team, known commonly as the Frogmen. The watch, then, is appropriately tool-forward, the type of watch Doxa and Belmont figure might be on the wrist of a SEAL at some point, either on a dive or topside. The dial is in a dark green tone with a prominent texture, the hands are a bright contrasting orange (and the same style as those found on the Doxa Army), and this edition incorporates applied markers. Most notable however, is the fully sandblasted case and bracelet, which is a first for Doxa. That’s a bit of a surprise, to me, given how beloved these watches are as dive tools by rea...

Anordain’s New Model 1 Combines Porcelain Dial and Custom Font SJX Watches
Breguet style reflecting Aug 27, 2026

Anordain’s New Model 1 Combines Porcelain Dial and Custom Font

Best known for its affordable watches with fired enamel dials, Anordain is diversifying its offerings with the Model 1 Porcelain. Sporting a traditional porcelain dial, the new Model 1 showcases a brand-new, custom font that’s a twist on the traditional Breguet style, reflecting the brand’s focus on the finer details of design. Beyond a new design direction for the Scotland-based Anordain, the Model 1 is also represents a scaling up of its business. While the porcelain dial is made the old fashion way – painted by hand with a clay-based mixture – it can be produced at a higher rate than Anordain’s enamel dials, making the new Model 1 accessible both in terms of price and availability. Initial thoughts The Model 1 Porcelain is interesting from a business perspective. It underlines Anordain’s growth, as well as the brand’s strategy for dealing with its growth. Scaling up production sizeably while still preserving its speciality of traditional, artisanal-type dials is a prudent approach that maintains the brand’s identity. The Model 1 Porcelain, however, is not an industrial product. Rather, it retains the quirky character typical of Anordain’s watches. The watch is still typical Anordain with its clean design and thoughtful details. The dial and typography are appealing, especially with accents like the five-minute numerals and railway-like minute scale. The seemingly mismatched hands leave me with mixed feelings, but the whole is still attractive. The opti...

Dispatch: Diving With Force Blue And Luminox For Reef Restoration In Miami Hodinkee
Luminox Aug 26, 2026

Dispatch: Diving With Force Blue And Luminox For Reef Restoration In Miami

Luminox is honoring its partnership with Force Blue by releasing a new Pacific Diver reference designed around the pair's shared mission to protect and rehabilitate the world's oceans. Luminox has a long history of working with branches of the US Military since their founding in 1989, but their relationship with Force Blue is a bit different. To better understand their mission and get a first look at a new watch built around the partnership, I hopped on a plane down to Miami with fins and mask in hand, ready to dive with the team. Many brands claim working relationships with military outfits, each with varying degrees of formality. Whether it's a licensed relationship to use military trademarks, or even individual service members using their personal watches, the link between a brand and the act of service can be difficult to judge at a glance. For Luminox, that connection was baked in from the get-go. In 1992, founder Barry Cohen worked with Assistant Research, Development, Test and Evaluation (RDT&E;) Officer Nick North to develop a watch specifically for the Navy SEALs using their tritium tube-based Luminox Light Technology (LLT). The Navy SEAL watch was the first stone in what would become a broad foundation of work with special forces and law enforcement groups worldwide. It's a foundation that Mondain would continue to lean on after acquiring a stake in the brand in 2006 and full ownership in 2016. Today, Luminox maintains a licensing relationship with the US Navy SEA...

Hands-On: The Longines Master Collection Launches A New Monopusher Chronograph Alongside A Refresh Of The Triple Calendar Chrono Hodinkee
Longines Master Collection Launches Aug 25, 2026

Hands-On: The Longines Master Collection Launches A New Monopusher Chronograph Alongside A Refresh Of The Triple Calendar Chrono

Earlier this year, Longines started rolling out a refresh of its dressy, polished Master Collection. But while that update was relegated to a large array of time-and-date models, I think today's new product launch brings something much more noteworthy to the table. There are two main additions: one by way of an update to a classic Longines chronograph, and the other, the first monopusher chronograph designed for the Longines Master Collection. The Updated Master Collection Chrono Moonphase The first is a refresh of the Master Collection Chrono Moonphase, ref. L2.962.4.73.2, largely an aesthetic refinement over the outgoing model. First is the consolidation of two case options, 40mm and 42mm, meeting in the middle at a 41mm diameter for the new generation. The thickness of the stainless steel case measures 13.8 mm (down from 14.2mm), and the lug-to-lug comes in at a large but not oversized 48.6mm. The case silhouette remains largely untouched here, reflecting the soft, fully polished case design with little in the way of contrasting lines or faceting on the exterior, which is exaggerated by the polished concave bezel. Most of the changes come by way of the dial, which combines a whole slew of small design changes for what is, in my opinion, a significantly improved design. Iterating on the brand's familiar barleycorn-textured dial, Longines cleans up a lot of the typography for a much more balanced look overall.  It's essential for what is quite a busy dial, needing to cra...

Hands On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar Aug 24, 2026

Hands On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar

The Roger Dubuis (RD) Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is something of a bridge across eras for RD, combining the brand’s seminal biretrograde calendar format with the 2000s-era Excalibur case, executed in RD’s current lavishly layered house style. The revised perpetual calendar module brings plenty of haute horlogerie finishing to the dial side, and should prove more reliable than past iterations as well. Initial thoughts The Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual is a new model, but it feels like a watch that has always been around, combining several familiar Roger Dubuis elements. Chief among them is the biretrograde format, which has been a staple of the brand since its founding era. When the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar debuted last year, we speculated that a perpetual version was likely in the pipeline, and we didn’t have to wait long to find out. In terms of design, it’s pure RD through and through. The brand has offered glimpses of a return to its roots — the Hommage La Placide was well-received by neo-vintage enthusiasts — but it’s clear the brand remains committed to this bolder, more flamboyant vision of haute horlogerie that it has been championing since the launch of the Excalibur in 2005, albeit at a smaller size. Of course, the design won’t appeal to everyone, but that might be a good thing. Taste convergence favours the classics, but the polarising Excalibur aesthetic will appeal to those who appreciate traditional watchmaking but are ...

Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement - Could We Catch The Purple “Butterfly” Inside? Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement — Aug 22, 2026

Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement - Could We Catch The Purple “Butterfly” Inside?

Why use a traditional, coiled balance spring when you can use a 14-micron-wide and 120-micron-“thick” silicon blade instead? With the latter, Girard-Perregaux set out to overcome the inherent challenge of fluctuating power delivery in mechanical watches. The goal for the 235-year-old Swiss watchmaker from La Chaux-de-Fonds was to achieve consistently superior precision. The quest involves […] Visit Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement — Could We Catch The Purple “Butterfly” Inside? to read the full article.

eBay Finds: Classics from Omega, a Well Preserved Bulova, and More Worn & Wound
Accutron Aug 21, 2026

eBay Finds: Classics from Omega, a Well Preserved Bulova, and More

eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Bulova  Starting off this week with a nice vintage Bulova dress watch. At first glance I thought it was an Accutron with the dial and hands, but it’s an automatic Bulova. The yellow gold fill case has a fancy etched bezel to go with the radial brushed dial. This gives the watch a low-key bling look that isn’t too loud. The case is in good shape, as is the dial and hands. This one is time only, no date window. The automatic Bulova caliber 11ALAC movement is clean and runs well per the seller. The watch comes on a handsome leather strap that really goes well. Great looking piece with a high quality movement that should be reasonably priced at hammer time. View auction here Vintage Omega Speedmaster Professional  Here’s one that will not be easy on the wallet, but a vintage Omega Speedmaster is worth the money, it’s all that and a bag of chips. This example is from the late 1970s/early 1980s and is likely a ref 144.022, but don’t hold me to it as there are no pictures of the inside caseback or the movement. The iconic case looks unpolished with razor sharp edges on the bombe lugs. The tachymetre bezel is also in superb condition. The black dial looks original and super c...

Hands-On: The Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon Hodinkee
Aug 21, 2026

Hands-On: The Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon

Earlier in April, right before the kickoff of Watches and Wonders, Swiss independent Sylvain Pinaud announced his third major creation since the founding of his workshop in 2018. First came his Monopoussoir Chronograph, then arguably the more recognizable time-only Origine series. This third entry in the collection is the pragmatically named Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon—any guesses what complication this watch holds?  I kid, but the new watches are an absolute treat to see and handle in person. Even though the intense wave of new releases from dozens of brands in Geneva may have quickly steered the online conversation away from these new watches toward Jubilee dials and Nautilus desk clocks, these watches did not go unnoticed by collectors. Thirty of them, to be precise. The Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon was announced in three limited editions of ten pieces each, priced at CHF 180,000, and all three variants sold out within days. But before we get to the new watches, you might be asking what the situation is with the watchmaker these days, given that every decently well-known high-end independent watchmaker seems never to struggle with demand. That's pretty much the case here, too. Long story short, Pinaud and his team of 8 produce around 25 watches per year, and the Origine series has been fully allocated through its planned run through 2027. Given the sell-out of the Tourbillon and the sunsetting of the Origine, it kind of sounds like there isn't much to offer a prospective ...

Just Because - The Unique Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon “Julie” and New Personalisation Horizons for the Brand Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon “Julie” Aug 21, 2026

Just Because - The Unique Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon “Julie” and New Personalisation Horizons for the Brand

Customisation or unique pieces are nothing new in the Swiss watch industry, but are usually reserved for high horology or smaller ateliers, necessitating a level of flexibility that more established and mainstream brands can hardly achieve. That said, we had the opportunity to go hands-on with a unique piece recently that, besides its intrinsic singularity […]

Hands-On with the Studio Underd0g 02SERIES (Gen2): A Refreshing New Take on the Famous Dirty Dozen Worn & Wound
Studio Underd0g 02SERIES Gen2 Aug 20, 2026

Hands-On with the Studio Underd0g 02SERIES (Gen2): A Refreshing New Take on the Famous Dirty Dozen

In the span of six short years, independent brand Studio Underd0g has positioned itself as a leader in the contemporary British watchmaking wave. Founded by designer Richard Benc in 2020, the brand quickly made a name for itself in the industry with an irreverent and cheeky style that adds a refreshing spin to the sometimes stodgy business of watch design. Studio Underd0g pairs unique colors with quality finishing while “reject[ing] all that needs to go, like stuffiness, pomposity, and the reluctance to try anything new.” The 02SERIES brings together that fun-loving spirit and the brand’s commitment to boundary-pushing innovation. This summer’s release of Gen2 – the second iteration of the field watch collection – makes meaningful improvements to a fan-favorite. Studio Underd0g’s 02SERIES offers a modern take on the famous Dirty Dozen – a group of twelve watch brands tasked by the British Ministry of Defence to create a field watch for military-issue during the last half of World War II. Chief among a long list of specifications the brands had to meet, the watches were to be tough, reliable, and highly legible. Nearly all field watches today pull their aesthetic from the form-factor popularized by the Dirty Dozen, and I was curious to find out what Studio Underd0g could offer apart from the typical iterations so often seen in this space. After a week on the wrist, I can say that the 02SERIES (Gen2) is unlike any field watch I’ve encountered before and is ...

Introducing: The Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph And Senator Chronograph Navigator Hodinkee
Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Aug 20, 2026

Introducing: The Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph And Senator Chronograph Navigator

What We Know Today, Glashütte Original introduces two new flyback chronographs, replacing the Senator Chronograph Panorama Date models currently in the collection. While both models fall under the brand's Senator line, the new Senator Chronograph and Senator Chronograph Navigator could not be more opposed in aesthetics and spirit. First is the new Senator Chronograph Navigator, which departs significantly from the Senator line's overarching classical design language. With only a few exceptions, you're most likely expecting to see at least a few Roman numerals on any Senator dial. But the Navigator takes the chronograph down a much more utilitarian route, with what I believe is the brand's only conventional tool-watch design outside the SeaQ dive watch lineup. The matte black dial features three-dimensional, solid, luminescent applied Arabic hour numerals, while the rest of the dial text is printed in white to provide sharp contrast and improve legibility. The large subdials for the running seconds and elapsed minutes are snailed in texture, while a recessed faceting frames the oversized Panorama Date at six o'clock. The sword hands here are filled with a generous proportion of Super-LumiNova, and the remaining hands are all finished in white lacquer. The Senator Chronograph, sans Navigator, streamlines the layout of the outgoing Senator Chronograph Panorama Date for a more conventional look while still feeling familiar. A galvanic silver dial in soft white holds solid-gol...

Hands On: Credor Locomotive “Dawn Blue” GCCR995 SJX Watches
Credor Aug 20, 2026

Hands On: Credor Locomotive “Dawn Blue” GCCR995

A new day is dawning for Credor, which made its Watches & Wonders debut with the Locomotive “Dawn Blue” ref. GCCR995. Designed by Gerald Genta, the Locomotive was once the brand’s flagship sports model in the same vein as its more famous Swiss siblings, but with a quirky integrated-unintegrated bracelet. The obvious quality of the titanium case and bracelet make up for a weak spec sheet, but leave room for the Locomotive to grow alongside the newly international Credor marque. Initial thoughts The Locomotive is a great example of a watch that is more than the sum of its parts. In fact, it’s (almost) inexplicably nice for a watch with such a strange design, a mundane movement, and a micro-adjust-less pin-and-collar bracelet. While it’s cliché to say a watch looks better in person than photographs — and underestimates what a good photographer can do — I would say the Locomotive feels much better in person, like a watch of its price point should. The defining update for this edition of the Locomotive is its embossed dial, which features a repeating hexagon motif. The grooves that fill each cell are oriented at different angles, giving the dial a shimmering personality that changes with shifting light. At some angles, the dial is a uniform blue, while other angles produce an almost chequerboard-like effect. This backdrop is coated with layers of clear lacquer, enabling the Credor wordmark and (superfluous) “Automatic” text to float neatly above the three-d...