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Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Perpetual Calendar May 7, 2021

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction

Kicking off the spring-season watch auctions, the upcoming Phillips sale in Geneva takes place over the weekend of May 8 and 9. Led by the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 cloisonné world time “Eurasia”, the 236-lot catalogue has clearly been curated to cater to the taste of contemporary collectors. We round up a few interesting lots from the sale, including a pair of obscure watches by famed independent watchmakers – the Harry Winston Opus 1 by F.P. Journe, and the Roger W. Smith Series 1 “Onely” for Theo Fennell. Perhaps as unusual, but this time from an establishment name, is the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Perpetual Calendar. And then there’s the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 570 with a two-tone dial and Breguet numerals, which is simply gorgeous. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIII takes place on May 8 (for lots 1-130) and May 9 (lots 131-236). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available online. Lots 57 and 89 – Cartier Tortue monopoussoir chronographs Enjoying a resurgent interest in its elegant but original designs, bringing to mind its 1990s heyday at auction, Cartier is now frequently encountered in watch auctions. And the two present examples of the Tortue are each interesting, but even more notable side by side in the same same. They are the same watch – the original from 1930 and the remake some seven decades on. Tortue, French for” turtle”, is a century-old design attributed to Cartier, having made its debut in 1912. It’s ...

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Grand Seiko Nature Of Time: 4 Watches For 24 Seasons Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko Nature Apr 23, 2021

Grand Seiko Nature Of Time: 4 Watches For 24 Seasons

The Grand Seiko Nature of Time is a collection of four watches celebrating the Japanese system of dividing the year into 24 small seasons called sekki. Two of the watches have stainless steel cases and are powered by a mechanical high-beat caliber, while the other two are housed in titanium and run on Spring Drive Caliber 9R65. And let's have a look at those 'seasoned' dials!

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Up Close: Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 World Time Cloisonne “Eurasia” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 2523 World Time Apr 22, 2021

Up Close: Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 World Time Cloisonne “Eurasia”

The upcoming spring auction season is bringing with it a surprising number of vintage Patek Philippe world time wristwatches. Christie’s will be offering three of them during its evening sale on May 22, including the famed and unique ref. 1415 HU in platinum that once held the record of most expensive watch in the world when it last sold publicly in 2002 and achieved CHF6.6 million including fees. Phillips, on the other hand, will be offering the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 “Eurasia” publicly for the very first time. Long owned by an Italian collector until it was acquired by the present owner in the mid 1990s, this ref. 2523 is one of just three known with a cloisonné dial bearing the “Eurasia” map – and it is in strikingly fine condition. I put it on my wrist during the preview exhibition, and the watch is gorgeous, crisp, and arguably every dollar of the ten or more million it’ll sell for. The hallowed complication Despite not being amongst the most complicated watches Patek Philippe made in the 20th century, its world-time wristwatches (and also pocket watches) are amongst the brand’s most coveted and valuable timepieces. Well before the platinum ref. 1415 HU set a record in 2002, examples of the ref. 2523 with cloisonné dial were regularly selling for well over US$1 million at auction in the 1990s – and are the inspiration for the today’s world-time models, including the recent ref. 5231J. The fact that the world-time was a favourite of Osvaldo Patr...

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INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection turns the volume up to 11 Time+Tide
Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection Apr 10, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection turns the volume up to 11

You know the phrase “Business on the outside, party on the inside”? Well Zenith has flipped that with the new, very limited-edition Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum line. The business is on the inside with that magnificent dual-escapement El Primero 9004 automatic movement – but there’s no doubting that it’s party time on the outside. A … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection turns the volume up to 11 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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How our 27-year-old US Editor traded his way to a spectacular watch collection on a budget Time+Tide
Grand Seiko s Apr 4, 2021

How our 27-year-old US Editor traded his way to a spectacular watch collection on a budget

For a 27-year-old who isn’t the son of an oligarch, Zach Blass has amassed a serious watch collection. Highlights in his watch box include an A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down, a Rolex Submariner, a Blancpain 1185F, two Grand Seikos (the Snowflake SBGA211 and Spring SBGA413), a Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue, three Kuronos … ContinuedThe post How our 27-year-old US Editor traded his way to a spectacular watch collection on a budget appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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De Bethune Kind Of Two Tourbillon: Double-Faced Split Personality With Floating Lugs (Video) Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso! Watching Mar 15, 2021

De Bethune Kind Of Two Tourbillon: Double-Faced Split Personality With Floating Lugs (Video)

De Bethune highlights that there is more than one way to rotate a watch, using its floating lug system to perfection in the new DB Kind of Two Tourbillon. Look out, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso! Watching the blue tourbillon escapement beating away in high-def macro video is simply captivating: you'll want to watch it over and over and over.

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Grand Seiko Debuts the GMT “Seasons” Collection SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Debuts Mar 3, 2021

Grand Seiko Debuts the GMT “Seasons” Collection

A simple but bestselling complication for Grand Seiko, the dual-time zone GMT received a makeover for Seiko’s 140th anniversary. The result is a quartet of GMT watches that evoke the changing landscapes in Japan as the seasons change. Made up of both Hi-Beat and Spring Drive models, the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Seasons” all share the same classically-styled case that has been associated with the GMT since the very first model. Each of the four watches is inspired by specific phases of each season. In East Asian cultures, each of the four seasons is further divided into six phases – known as 節気, or sekki, in Japan – to capture the subtle changes within a season. Each of the new GMT models is inspired by a sekki from each season. Consequently, the watches are each distinct in colours and finish, having inspiration as varied as green-cherry trees to the dark, moonlit sky. The GMT “Shunbun” SBGJ251 Initial thoughts The quartet exemplifies the style of modern-day Grand Seiko, especially in the splendid dials that translate the local landscape into intricate stamped patterns. And the cases are elegantly shaped but solid, and finished with Zaratsu flat polishing that is synonymous with Grand Seiko. Because all four watches are powered by longstanding movements – instead of the latest-generation 9SA5 that costs a lot more – the prices are all in line with existing models, US$6,300 for the Spring Drive GMT and US$7,100 for Hi-Beat automatics. Though ...

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Grand Seiko Introduces the Heritage SLGH007 in Platinum SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Feb 26, 2021

Grand Seiko Introduces the Heritage SLGH007 in Platinum

Twenty twenty-one is a celebratory year for Seiko, which marks its 140th anniversary. Amongst the slew of watches launched for the occasion is the posh but stealth Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Seiko 140th Anniversary (SLGH007). Cased in platinum and equipped with new 9SA5 movement, this is one of two platinum watches commissioned for the occasion, but unlike the Masterpiece Spring Drive 8 Days that’s extravagantly set with diamonds and garnets, the SLGH007 is discreet, and even slightly intriguing with its tree ring-patterned dial. Initial thoughts Translating local flora and fauna into dial designs is a Grand Seiko specialty – which it named “The Nature of Time” – typically in the form of a stamped, patterned dial inspired by nature around its factories. But despite being one of many inspired by similar themes, the SLGH007 manages to stand out. The pronounced grain on the dial is not only new, but also diverges from the usual styling. Most patterned Grand Seiko dials rely on repeating patterns on a smaller scale, while the tree-ring dial has large, obvious figuring that forms a distinct landscape. And its charcoal-black finish makes it even more special – standing in contrast to the brighter colours Grand Seiko now favours – especially when matched with the platinum case. The result is a watch that’s low-key but stylish, and reminds me of the similarly-dressed Lange 1 “Darth”. The SLGH007 also has solid mechanics: it’s the fourth Grand Seiko to...

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Insight: Patents in Watchmaking SJX Watches
Omega Feb 8, 2021

Insight: Patents in Watchmaking

Patents in watchmaking are often brushed over by the brand themselves, except when tallying them in marketing material. But they are important, and can be foundational to a brand, as George Daniels’ famed co-axial escapement is synonymous with Omega. But there is a great deal more in watchmaking that can be protected with a patent than a lubrication-free escapement. A large proportion of the parts that make up a watch – from case materials to time-display mechanisms – can be patented, and often are. That begs the question: what exactly can be patented? The common obstacle encountered by a would-be inventor is that patents are notoriously difficult to secure, especially if applied for without specialist help. Going from application to approval of a patent often requires several years, and approval is not a certainty. Gaining a patent hinges on three criteria: the invention in question must be new, non-obvious, and useful. Beyond the necessary knowledge of prior inventions – in order to prove the patent-pending idea is new – the incredibly specific wording required for patents can be daunting to an independent applicant, so it usually falls to a patent attorney to lead the application process. But patents can be lucrative for an inventor, especially for an innovation targeted at the consumer, which is why new patents are registered every day. The United States Patent and Trademark Office, for instance, received just under 670,000 patent applications in 2019, and gr...

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Nick’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Cartier, Seiko and Hamilton Time+Tide
Grand Seiko launched Jan 7, 2021

Nick’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Cartier, Seiko and Hamilton

In spite of some not inconsiderable distractions, there were some pretty decent watches released in 2020. Quite a few of them actually. Omega relaunched their serially produced caliber 321, Bulgari executed the Octo Finissimo in steel, Grand Seiko launched an entirely new escapement in their SLGH002 and DOXA brought their most iconic design into the … ContinuedThe post Nick’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Cartier, Seiko and Hamilton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Why can’t the watch industry match Apple Watch straps for comfort? Time+Tide
Jan 7, 2021

Why can’t the watch industry match Apple Watch straps for comfort?

Fact: we are stuck in the strap-technology stone age while the world is moving on. Is the 100-year-old technology of the spring bar beautiful nostalgia? Or simply large manufacturers being lazy? We all have a story of that one time, changing a strap to match up that outfit, fiddling with a screwdriver, scratching the lug, … ContinuedThe post Why can’t the watch industry match Apple Watch straps for comfort? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Two new Grand Seiko watches – Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary & Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Editions Deployant
Grand Seiko watches – Kintaro Hattori Nov 10, 2020

Two new Grand Seiko watches – Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary & Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Editions

As the year of the 160th anniversary of Seiko’s founder, Kintaro Hattori, draws to a close, Grand Seiko  proudly celebrates his life and achievements with a Spring Drive masterpiece. The watch is powered by Caliber 9R02 and features a Platinum 950 case with indexes and hour and minute hands in 14K white gold. A secondRead More

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Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Azzurro Power Control Deployant
Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Azzurro Nov 7, 2020

Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Azzurro Power Control

This spring, Chopard will proudly reprise its role as main sponsor and official timekeeper of Italy’s world famous Mille Miglia classic car rally, a position it has held continuously since 1988. Each year, Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele has demonstrated his passion for automobiles by competing in the gruelling, 1,000-mile contest that runs from Brescia to Rome and back – and each year the Maison produces a new Mille Miglia watch collection to celebrate what is regularly described as 'the most beautiful race in the world'.

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Our Predictions In The Chronometry Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is United, But Not Unanimous Quill & Pad
Oct 18, 2020

Our Predictions In The Chronometry Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is United, But Not Unanimous

In the GPHG Chronometry category, we find mechanical watches that contain at least one tourbillon, and/or a special escapement, and/or another development improving precision timekeeping. What we don't find, though, is much hard data regarding precision like timing test results or in most cases even a second hand. Precision watches without a second hand? Despite that, our panel predicts a clear winner.

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MB&F; Introduces the LM Perpetual EVO SJX Watches
MB&F; Oct 13, 2020

MB&F; Introduces the LM Perpetual EVO

The most complicated MB&F; watch when it was launched in 2015, the LM Perpetual (or LM QP) was powered by an ingenious movement combining a “split” escapement and a novel perpetual calendar mechanism developed by Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell. Now MB&F; has reworked the watch to create its sportier and more robust successor, the LM Perpetual EVO. Featuring several tweaks to the case, dial, and movement that are cumulatively significant, the LM Perpetual EVO boasts increased water resistance along with an integrated rubber strap. The LM Perpetual EVO is a limited edition of 15 watches each in black, blue, and orange Initial thoughts Even though the Legacy Machine (LM) line was conceived as something inspired by the 19th century and Jules Verne, the LM Perpetual with its open-worked, intricate dial was always stylishly modern, though that was toned down by the white-lacquered sub-dials of the original model. The EVO, however, makes full use of the open-worked dial to become an uber-contemporary watch. Both the material and construction of the case are new: it’s now zirconium with a more complicated architecture, featuring recessed sides and angular lugs that integrate with the strap. And the sub-dials are black, creating a striking contrast against the base plate in black, blue, or orange. Most notably, the EVO brings to mind the Harry Winston Project Z1, which was the other major product developed by MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser when he was chief executive of ...

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The Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks like it’s been sent to put a hit on anyone that questions its (high) price point Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks Jul 15, 2020

The Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks like it’s been sent to put a hit on anyone that questions its (high) price point

Editor’s note: There’s the simple fact that Seiko are turning up the heat on the Swiss watch industry, and then there’s the way they’re doing it. Both are 100% worth taking note of. For example, let’s re-examine the Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J, a high-spec Spring Drive GMT at a shade under $8000AUD, that carries with it a murdered … ContinuedThe post The Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks like it’s been sent to put a hit on anyone that questions its (high) price point appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Petermann Bédat Introduces the 1967 Deadbeat Seconds SJX Watches
Petermann Bédat Jun 18, 2020

Petermann Bédat Introduces the 1967 Deadbeat Seconds

First revealed a year ago as a prototype with a dial that was a work in progress, the Petermann Bédat 1967 wristwatch with an unusual deadbeat seconds mechanism has just been launched in its final form. Mechanically identical to the prototype – it’s equipped a secondary escapement for the jumping seconds – the refined 1967 now has a partially-open dial that shows off the finely-finished keyless works. Initial thoughts The prototype 1967 deadbeat seconds was let down by an uninspiring faux-classical dial, which was a shame, because the movement was executed to an impressively high level. Fortunately, Messrs Petermann and Bedat embarked on a total redesign of the dial. Independent watchmakers don’t often make drastic changes to designs in response to criticism, but the two did so, and the result is a success. The new 1967 is a handsome watch that manages to look modern while evoking classical dial design. In fact, the new dial is essentially a “sector” dial with a sapphire chapter ring, a novel combination that has not been done before. And it is matched with Petermann Bédat’s take on classical lance-shaped hands, which complete the contemporary feel. The new 1967 in rose gold. Photo – Petermann Bédat Dial aside, the rest of the watch is largely identical to the prototype. The movement was already excellent and will be almost unchanged in the production versions, although Mr Petermann says that the engraved lettering on the three-quarter plate will be im...

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Grand Seiko Introduces the Soko US Special Editions SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jun 13, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the Soko US Special Editions

Made exclusively for the American market, the Grand Seiko Soko US Special Editions, like many Grand Seiko watches, are a nod to a Japanese theme or motif. Made up of a pair of Spring Drive watches – the SBGA427 and SBGA429 – with bamboo-green accents, the special edition is named after Soko (霜降), one of the 24 periods of the traditional seasonal calendar. In the Japanese seasonal calendar, the year is divided into 24 periods known as Sekki (節季), each lasting about two weeks. Like any calendars in use before the modern age, the seasonal calendar was based on the solar year, and used by farmers for agriculture. Soko translates as “frost descending”, and marks the end of autumn. Specifically, the two watches take inspiration from Kyoto’s tranquil Arashiyama Bamboo Forest at autumn’s end, translating the scenery into elements of the dial. The Soko SBGA429 Initial thoughts I always love how Grand Seiko encapsulates Japanese concepts or culture in their watches – reflecting a strong national pride – which gives its timepieces an intrinsically distinct style compared to watches from other parts of the world. This is being done more often now that Grand Seiko is being sold widely outside of Japan, especially in the United States. With Grand Seiko gaining traction in America, the brand has produced several special editions available only in the country, such as the Kirazuri and the Japan Seasons special editions – effectively distilling the essence of J...

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Phillips to Offer F.P. Journe Souscription Tourbillon and Resonance SJX Watches
Patek Philippe watches from May 18, 2020

Phillips to Offer F.P. Journe Souscription Tourbillon and Resonance

Postponed from its usual mid-May date to end-June, Phillips’ spring watch auction is Geneva is nonetheless the full works, with 214 lots on offer, including the four spectacular Patek Philippe watches from the collection of Jean-Claude Biver, including a ref. 1518 “pink on pink” and a second-series ref. 2499. Also amongst the offerings at the Geneva Watch Auction XI are two important examples of contemporary watchmaking – a pair of F.P. Journe souscription watches consigned by the original owner – Lorenz Bäumer. A jeweller whose workshop is on the storied Place Vendome in Paris, Mr Bäumer is perhaps best known for crafted the tiara worn by Charlene Wittstock when the former Olympic swimmer wed Prince Albert II of Monaco in 2011. But Mr Bäumer is also a watch aficionado who met François-Paul Journe via a mutual friend. Mr Journe had then decided to launch his own brand by taking inspiration from Abraham-Louis Breguet, who had offered clients the opportunity to purchase a newly-developed, fairly-affordable watch by first putting down a deposit – thus “subscribing” to the offer. The jeweller became a “subscriber” and paid the down payment for a Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite “Souscription”, subsequently receiving the watch numbered “14/20” on the dial. A year later, Mr Bäumer was approached once again to “subscribe” for the new Chronomètre à Resonance “Souscription”. He took up the offer, and again got the watch number “14”....

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In-Depth: Inspiration and Creation of the Grand Seiko Thin Dress Series SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Thin Dress Series Earlier May 15, 2020

In-Depth: Inspiration and Creation of the Grand Seiko Thin Dress Series

Earlier this year, I paid a visit to Seiko’s headquarters in Ginza, Tokyo. I was there for two reasons. One was to present my Ideal Watch Size Survey to their design, product and development teams. The other was to find out more about a particular Grand Seiko I had recently purchased, the SBGZ001. Launched in 2019 to celebrate the Spring Drive’s 20th Anniversary, the SBGZ001 is an extraordinarily finished version of the Grand Seiko Thin Dress Series from the Elegance collection. What started as a few questions from a collector ended up being a dive into how a significant new line of watches at Grand Seiko was born. In the interest of full disclosure: The Armoury, which I own, has been a retailer of Grand Seiko in Hong Kong for about six years now. I have been collecting Grand Seiko for about nine years. Neither the SBGZ001 nor the SBGY003 detailed in this article are available for sale at the store. But they are special so I wanted to delve further into their creation. The Credor Eichi I, 2013 First some background. Back in 2013, I bought a Credor Eichi I, a well-known watch in certain circles for its exceptional finishing. It was made in the Micro Artist Studio (MAS), a division within the Seiko-Epson Shiojiri plant where all the cutting-edge high horology – namely Spring Drive movements – is designed and made. That includes things like the Credor Minute Repeater, the Grand Seiko 8 Day Power Reserve and the Credor Eichi II. I toured the facility in 2014 and visite...

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INTRODUCING: The new Chopard Mille Miglia and L.U.C Perpetual Twin 2020 present masculinity two ways Time+Tide
Chopard Mille Miglia May 6, 2020

INTRODUCING: The new Chopard Mille Miglia and L.U.C Perpetual Twin 2020 present masculinity two ways

For their spring novelty releases this year, Chopard have reinvigorated two of their most popular collections: the Mille Miglia and the L.U.C families. We are offered something for everyone, with the more refined L.U.C collection featuring attractive new perpetual calendar references with tastefully balanced dial proportions and a beautifully decorated movement, while the sportiness of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Chopard Mille Miglia and L.U.C Perpetual Twin 2020 present masculinity two ways appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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