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Time+Tide
Editor’s note: During one of our final editorial meetings of the year, the question was posed: which watch brand won 2022? This then raises the question of what it means to win. Is it total revenue? Likes on social media? Page views on our site? The number of watch spots in the wild? There is no one … ContinuedThe post Which watch brand won 2022? Zach picks Cartier – here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Ah, the French. So stylish, yet so understated. I’m generalising, of course, but if you were ever searching for a watch with a vintage elegance that whispers, but never shouts, France’s Baltic has found their voice. Their Aquascaphe diver is pure mid-century perfection, familiar without ever seeming blatantly derivative. Oh, you’ll catch little glimpses of Blancpain’s … ContinuedThe post The Baltic Aquascaphe continues to sell out on a regular basis. Here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This will go down as the year that completely changed my life. From growing my passion for watches. To balancing life as a writer and father. All while trying to find myself as a collector. I’ll probably look back at it all in amazement. If simply for the fact that I didn’t throw my hands … ContinuedThe post The three watches Ricardo wore most in 2022 – Grand Seiko, MoonSwatch and Tudor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The HYT brand is experiencing an encouraging renaissance. It came back with a big bang with the help of Kairos Technology and a certain Davide Cerrato at the helm. For reference, Davide is just the guy who launched the initial Tudor Black Bay in 2012 and oversaw Montblanc’s purchase of Minerva. Good CV, then. The … ContinuedThe post The HYT Hastroid Cosmic Hunter combines avant-garde tech with materials of old appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Although I am a self-confessed lover of weird things, I could never really put my finger on why I hadn’t fallen for Meistersinger. I’ve always enjoyed their single-handed quirk and charm, and I’ve definitely recommended them to people who are looking for something different in the past, but it wasn’t until the new Meistersinger Singularis … ContinuedThe post How the Meistersinger Singularis Enamel Edition finally won me over appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Poor Raheem Sterling has endured a rough time of late. There was the familiar heartache of England being knocked out of the World Cup with Gareth Southgate’s team adopting their customary roles as plucky nearly-men destined to lose against the first decent team they face. If that wasn’t bad enough, while Sterling was in Qatar, … ContinuedThe post Raheem Sterling lost £300,000 of watches in a robbery. How should he replace them? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
We all know the Bulgari Octo Finissimo series as some of the most in-demand timepieces on the market today. You’ll find them peeking out of the well-turned cuffs of A-listers the world over. They’re sleek, sculptural, and let’s face it, downright sexy, and this one’s no exception. This is the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The rose-gold Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is sleek, sculptural and downright sexy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
On very rare occasions does Grand Seiko create unique versions of its watches. But it has done so with a unique version of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon – the one-off reference SLGT001 – that will go under the hammer at Phillips’ New York auction December 11, with some proceeds from the sale going to a children’s charity. Anyone who read our earlier in-depth, two-part story on the Kodo (part I covers the watch and part II its technical features) will understand the the impressive technical achievement that is its movement. The SLGT001 has all of that, but in a unique execution specifically for the auction. Engraved “Unique Piece No. 1/1” on the back, the SLGT001 is instantly recognisable as a one-off. While the standard version of the model has a monochromatic grey palette, the SLGT001 is set apart by its colour: heat-blued and gilded components against rhodium-plated bridges. Most of the screws are blued steel, while the three-armed tourbillon carriage is blued titanium. And the SLGT001 is also distinguished by its case material. Unlike the standard model that has a case made up of both titanium and platinum, this is entirely in Brilliant Hard Titanium, the brand’s proprietary alloy that boasts a brighter, more silvery hue than most titanium alloys. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of the SLGT001 will go to the Children’s Heart Foundation. Besides benefiting a good cause, the winning bidder will also get a trip to Japan to meet the team behind...
SJX Watches
Dresden-based Lang & Heyne is a German independent watchmaker that makes just 100 to 150 timepieces per year. Created to mark the ninth year of the partnership with its retailer in Hong Kong, its latest release is the Friedrich II Remontoir “The Lavish Attic Edition”. If the watch sounds familiar, that’s because the prototype of the limited edition was sold at Phillips in May for HK$819,000, or just over US$105,000. Now it returns as a serial-production timepiece in a limited edition of 36 watches – nine pieces each in stainless steel, white gold, rose gold and platinum. Lang & Heyne (L&H;) was founded in 2001 by watchmakers Marco Lang, Mirko Heyne, and Lothar Zieger. All three founders have since left the brand, most recently Mr Lang, who left to set up his eponymous brand. Their departure has allowed the brand to evolve into less traditional watches like the Friedrich II Remontoir for the Lavish Attic, which has a sporty aesthetic and titanium movement bridges. Initial thoughts I was intrigued when I came across the prototype offered at Phillips. A watch with a constant-force escapement is something you don’t often see (even if brands like F.P. Journe have made it a speciality). That, combined with the stark black dial, steel bracelet, and sporty design, made it an unusual proposition. As a serially-produced watch, albeit a limited edition, the Lavish Attic edition retains the key elements that give it a distinctive look, namely the glossy, black enamel dial ...
Quill & Pad
The MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis 5-Day Power Reserve Rainbow 3D Carbon is an excellent example of Hublot doing what it does best: challenging the status quo as a conversation piece. And Martin Green loves it!
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SJX Watches
While much of the buzz around Patek Philippe’s recent launches has been centred on the Nautilus ref. 5811/1G in white gold, the year has been mostly about other than the Nautilus and Aquanaut. Amongst the most notable new launches for 2022 is the World Time Flyback Chronograph ref. 5935A-001. Continuing with Patek Philippe’s development of steel watches beyond its traditional sports models, the ref. 5935A is a striking new take on a model that made its debut in 2016. Previously available only in precious metals (namely white gold or platinum), the ref. 5935A is the first of the model in stainless steel – and one of the brand’s few complicated watches in the metal. And the ref. 5935A is larger in diameter than its predecessor, but its most eye-catching feature is the dial in “rose-gilt opaline” (or “salmon” if you wish). Initial thoughts A World Time in steel is a big deal because the world time is arguably an iconic watch for Patek Philippe. Select vintage examples are amongst the handful of Patek Philippe references that can sell for high-seven or even eight figures. Granted the ref. 5935A adds a chronograph into the mix, but it is still modern take on a signature complication. The ref. 5935A retains the familiar Louis Cottier-type world time display that’s almost synonymous with Patek Philippe, but with contemporary materials and colours. And at 41 mm it is also larger than usual for a Patek Philippe complication, giving it something of a sporty feel...
Revolution
Our buddy Mark Cho, champion of classic menswear and astute watch collector, has decided to let go part of his massive collection at Phillips’ “The Beauty in Everything” single owner online auction that’s running from 30 November to 6 December. Wei speaks with Mark about why he is parting with some of his treasured timepieces, […]
Revolution
In the last instalment of our series on the BVLGARI Octo Finissimo, Wei continues the conversation with the four key individuals from the brand on the vision and audacity that was required to create the Ultra. Reflecting on the entire journey of the Octo Finissimo, it is clear that this groundbreaking product family has forever […]
Time+Tide
I know many of us jest at the frequency with which Grand Seiko releases limited editions. To be fair, plenty of other brands are guilty of repeated limited-edition novelty debuts. But, on the other side of the coin, how can we fault them? We often see people go crazy for limited editions, especially Grand Seiko … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGY023 GS9 Club USA Limited Edition is yet another GS we wish was standard production appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
One of Ball’s slogans is “accuracy under adverse conditions”. That tells the story of what this brand is all about – watches that deliver tough functionality that you can absolutely rely on. It’s a legacy that was founded back in the 1890s, when Webb C. Ball was chosen to dictate a set of standards for railroad … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II and Engineer Hydrocarbon NEDU appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
Having just announced a limited edition with a gold case and semiprecious stone dial, TAG Heuer has debuted another all-gold Carrera, the Carrera Chronograph “JPS”. It features an 18k yellow gold case matched with a black-and-gold dial inspired by the 1158 CHN chronograph of the 1970s, a colour combination better known as the “JPS”. That’s is short for John Player Special, a cigarette brand that sponsored the Lotus Formula 1 team in the 1970s. Its brand colours were black and gold, which was also the paintwork for the Lotus race cars. That led to the “JPS” label for the Rolex Daytona in the same colours, though the nickname has since been applied to sports chronographs in the same livery. Initial thoughts The Carrera “JPS” is essentially the same model that’s usually seen in steel, but now given a luxe makeover with a gold case and “JPS” dial. In typical Carrera style it opts for a two-counter look with a “ghost” seconds at six, resulting in a vintage vibe although the case is a very modern and slightly chunky 42 mm in diameter. But the new Carrera really is all about the dial, which is no doubt meant to evoke what is now a million-dollar watch. While the market for vintage Daytonas has plateaued or even declined since its peak four years ago, the Daytona “JPS” has continued to sell for large sums, with a handful crossing the million-dollar mark over the past year. Besides the rarity of the model, the value also reflects the intrinsic appe...
Deployant
Today, we have a refreshing concept from the great folks at CIGA Design. Cue the 3-in-1 timepiece, also known as the Magician.
SJX Watches
Habring² has scaled down its signature split-seconds chronograph to create the Doppel 38, which retains all of the key features of the original but in a more compact case. Still having the “bullhead” pusher layout that characterises the split-seconds chronographs of Habring², the Doppel 38 is smaller and thinner than its predecessor, but continues to be powered by the proprietary hand-wound A11R calibre. Initial thoughts Long one of the best values in terms of sub-US$10,000 chronographs, the Doppel is perhaps the archetypal Habring² watch since it’s descended from the complication Mr Habring invented at IWC three decades ago. Now vastly improved and refined by Mr Habring, the Doppel possibly the most accessible split-seconds chronograph on the market – in itself a major point of appeal. But the original Doppel was 42 mm, not massive but large enough to make someone who prefers smaller watches think twice. Personally I thought the larger Doppel was sized well for its particular type of complication, but the Doppel 38 is unexpectedly compact, especially at just 11.5 mm high. Beyond making it more wearable for more people, the new dimensions will no doubt give the Doppel 38 a slightly more retro feel, although the dial styles on offer are thoroughly modern. And it remains affordable as such things go, with a retail price of about US$7,900 before taxes. A value-proposition split-seconds Like many of the recent watches from the brand, the Doppel 38 is simple in sty...
Time+Tide
Charity auctions can often be some of the watch world’s most exciting events, as brands stretch their creativity for one-off watches that are instantly collectible. Audemars Piguet certainly delivered at the La Cuvée One Drop 2022 event with their Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph “One Drop” raising US$1.1m. Hosted in Las Vegas, the proceeds go towards … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet raise $1.1m for charity with the Royal Oak “One Drop” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s no secret that microbrands can often provide incredible watches for the money, but that doesn’t mean that they can get away with putting no effort in. Slapping together a list of specifications at a low price point might seem like the key to Kickstarter success, but it takes a lot of planning, intuition, and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Varon Chiri Blazer is a dressy everyday watch for a remarkable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
I may not be an Aussie myself, but green and gold tones definitely get the T+T HQ going. Norqain recently moved upmarket with their Wild One collection, but that does not mean they are abandoning their positioning at lower price points as well. The new Norqain Adventure Sport 42mm Bronze Khaki Dial is a handsome … ContinuedThe post Norqain speaks our language with new bronze and green Adventure Sport 42mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s a bit similar to haircuts. Looking back at photos from my youth recalls all sorts of misadventures in the barber’s chair. There was the shoulder-length mane I returned with after backpacking around India. The brief skinhead phase that my mother said made me look like a convict. There was the Britpop-inspired mishap sustained during … ContinuedThe post How I learned to stop worrying and love bolder watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Recently Patek Philippe ushered in their next era of the Nautilus with the new 5811/1G. The Nautilus, along with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, has long been a celebrity favourite to own and wear. Vacheron Constantin meanwhile have not always enjoyed the same success in garnering the attention of the rich and famous. Lately though, … ContinuedThe post Is the Vacheron Constantin 222 becoming the new celeb favourite? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
"I left Earth three times and found no other place to go. Please take care of Spaceship Earth." - Wally Schirra
Hodinkee
Sometimes out-of-production models are the way to go.
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