Hodinkee
Reading Time At HSNY: It’s Complicated - Time And 18th Century Navigation
Behind the scenes at one of the world's most unique and comprehensive archives of horology.
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Hodinkee
Behind the scenes at one of the world's most unique and comprehensive archives of horology.
Time+Tide
New Ulysse Nardin Ocean Race Diver Chronograph celebrates the 50th anniversary of The Ocean Race UN states its Carbonium timing bezel is largely made from recycled fishing nets and aeroplane fuselage offcuts, offering a 40% lower environmental impact than other carbon composites Ulysse Nardin is the official timekeeping partner for The Ocean Race, a gruelling … ContinuedThe post New Ulysse Nardin Ocean Race Diver Chronograph Limited Edition honours the 50th anniversary of the legendary sustainability-focused race appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The sixth and final season of AMC’s prestige drama series Better Call Saul, the prequel to the award-winning Breaking Bad, dropped on Netflix back in April, and a wristwatch that appears prominently in the series finale has caught the attention of avid small-screen watch spotters. Some of them may remember - while others may have missed - seeing the watch for the first time in Breaking Bad, where it played an even more significant symbolic role in the storyline of its owner, Walter White, played by multiple Emmy winning lead actor Bryan Cranston. Here is the story behind Walter White’s watch and why it is so much more than just a prop. When we first meet Walter White, in the premiere episode of Breaking Bad on January 20, 2008, he is a somewhat pitiable figure: an underpaid, underappreciated high school chemistry teacher who drives a Pontiac Aztek (remember those?), wears a cheap digital watch, and struggles to support his small family, which includes caring for a son with cerebral palsy. In that same pilot episode, Walter learns he has terminal cancer - a diagnosis that triggers the desperate and increasingly ruthless quest for illicit riches and power that defines the arc of the series, as Walter evolves from hapless, nondescript educator to the crystal meth kingpin of Albuquerque, New Mexico. (Series creator Vince Gilligan has described its high concept as “Mr. Chips becomes Scarface.”) The first watch that we saw Walter wearing is a fairly humble one, a ...
Time+Tide
Worn by the likes of Elizabeth Taylor and Andy Warhol, Piaget was a brand that reeked of jet-set glamour in the 1970s. The launch of the Piaget Polo, the brand’s first integrated-bracelet watch, did little to dispel this aspirational image. Released in 1979, the watch got widespread attention after it was photographed on the wrist … ContinuedThe post Is the rise of male jewellery fuelling our love for integrated-bracelet watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
“Out of Office” is a series of stories accounting our experiences trying to find moments of solace outdoors, as well as our interaction with the gear that comes along with us, and that most certainly includes the watches on our wrist. Out of Office is an escape. It’s about finding an opportunity to put the world on pause, whether it’s the few minutes you take out of your day to read this article, or its the couple of hours you dedicate to getting out there. It’s where our experience meets our enthusiasm. Through this series we’ve already seen our authors do a hike in the local hills with a Sinn, explore a glacier via seaplane with a Citizen and a road trip through New England with a Rolex. Let’s continue this journey together and see where it takes us.” It’s no secret that I love the west coast. I might have been born in Tennessee, but my heart belongs in California. The ocean, the trees, the mountains…they just have my soul. I was recently in San Francisco for our annual Windup Watch Fair and decided to take a few days after the event to travel North up the Sonoma Coast, then back down to Monterey before heading back to Nashville. I expected a fun relaxing vacation with my BFF and that’s exactly what I got. Before I dive into some of the places I visited on this trip, I want to quickly go over some of the gear I brought with me. My camera of choice for this vacation was the Panasonic Lumix S5II with the Panasonic 85mm 1.8 lens. This camera is on lo...
Time+Tide
Watch flipping. The practice, depending on which side of the coin you are on, poses one of the biggest problems or opportunities within the watch space today. With watches increasingly being looked at as an investment opportunity, and financial figures such as Kevin O’Leary endorsing the notion that investing in watches is better than investing … ContinuedThe post Should watch brands cancel orders placed with the intention of immediately flipping them? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin’s original Freak shook the watch-o-sphere to the core when unveiled at Basel in 2001. It was like nothing anyone had seen before; a complete reimagining of how a watch can function and display time where there was no crown, no dial and no hands. Seemingly so complex with a gear train sprawled across … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Freak One is a super-freak and chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
After round up the best examples of independent watchmaking on offer at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI, let’s turn to notable complications and artisanal timepieces in the sale that takes place on May 24 and 25. Amongst the highlights are easy choices like the Patek Philippe ref. 5016P, the most complicated watch made by the Geneva watchmaker at the time of its launch. Others might go under the radar (and perhaps be good buys), like the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Mystérieuse with its transparent time display and floating hands. As for the artisanal, a highlight is undoubtedly the Vacheron Constantin “Audubon” featuring a cloisonné dial done by the famed Anita Porchet, arguably the best enameller in watchmaking. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 836: Vacheron Constantin “Birds of America” ref. 43060/000J-8434 by Anita Porchet Enamelling at its highest level is an art form equal to the best of complicated watchmaking. Amongst Vacheron Constantin’s earliest but also best known enamelled watches is the series inspired by drawings from Birds of America by John-James Audubon. The 19th century American naturalist documented most of the continent’s birds in the landmark tome, the pages of which served as inspiration for the series of watches. For the “Birds of America” series, Vacheron Constantin turned to the best enamelers of the day, including Muriel Sechaud and of course Anita Porchet. Going by t...
SJX Watches
Omega expands the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer collection with one in steel and an all-new model in titanium. Dressed in restrained colours of greys or greens with gilded accents, the new pair combines modern styling with a traditional, Cottier-style world time. Initial thoughts Though superficially similar to earlier versions of the Aqua Terra travel watch, a close examination reveals notable differences between the new models and their predecessors. The titanium model is executed in shades of grey and black, save for a gilded, relief world map, giving it a striking appearance that elevates the world time concept. In contrast, the map motif feels more integrated into the design on the steel models, allowing the map to recede into the background resulting in a more low-key appearance.. The new models are priced slightly higher than their predecessors, with the steel on strap starting at US$10,200 and about 10% more for the titanium. Compared against the competition, the Aqua Terra Worldtimer is one of the few world time watches at that price point – most are either pricer or less expensive – and its quality certainly justifies its price premium over comparable watches from Frederique Constant or Montblanc for instance. Eye-catching colourways Omega’s latest Aqua Terra Worldtimers continue the brand’s sporty reinterpretation of the classic complication invented by Louis Cottier. The dial features a relief map of the Earth as seen from the North Pole, ringed b...
Worn & Wound
Introducing the Hawaii based Imperial Watch Co. Royalguard 200, initially unveiled in October 2022. And when we say “unveiled,” we mean it was an instant sell-out hit, with every piece snatched up before it even had a chance to grace the hypothetical shelves. So it’s no surprise that Imperial is back, this time offering more of what made the Royalguard a fast success. The Royalguard’s reissue is now available in three limited edition colorways, featuring both date and no-date options. Imperial has also revived the original blue bezel variant, presenting it in a limited run of just 30 pieces with a date function. While the watch itself remains largely unchanged from its previous iteration, the new colorways add some variety, presenting new options to collectors who may have missed out on the Royalguard’s first release. Let’s dive into the new colors (pun always intended). First up is the Tropical, which captures the rusty brown and red tones reminiscent of a well-aged tropical bezel. Then we have the Ghosted Green, a soft, muted shade of green that changes from light green to a deep emerald depending on the light. And of course, there’s the Classic Black, which exudes a vintage, almost gray faded aesthetic. The original blue bezel variant follows this same trend, with its muted, faded, and aged appearance. The Royalguard draws considerable inspiration from the iconic Eberhard Scafograf 200, notably in its glossy black dial that dances with the light. The ove...
Worn & Wound
If you continue to miss out on the ultra popular and still incredibly difficult to track down Silver Snoopy Speedmaster that Omega released in 2020 to an incredible level of hysteria, Seiko has what will certainly be a more affordable and (probably) easier to find pair of limited editions coming that might scratch that Snoopy itch. The latest Seiko 5 Sports limited editions are both Snoopy themed, and capture a lot of the charm from the original comics in subtle ways. The new watches use the smaller Seiko 5 Sports platforms, the 38mm case size with a dive bezel, and the 36mm field watch style case without a bezel. Each has a white dial with graphics pulled right from the comic. The larger dive style watch has an image of Snoopy with a surfboard (with the words “Seiko 5 Sports” printed on in).The smaller watch features Snoopy and Woodstock negotiating a parachute. These watches are being released as part of this year’s 55th anniversary celebration of the Seiko 5 Sports imprint. Accordingly, the artwork for the new watches was pulled from Peanuts comics dating to 1968, Seiko 5 Sports’ first year. That extends to the casebacks as well, which both feature larger images from the comics along with a “Limited Edition” designation. My personal favorite tribute to the original comics in these watches though is the use of the ‘Schulz’ font for the numerals on each piece. Along with the artwork, it makes these watches feel more grounded in their original comic str...
Worn & Wound
The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. The post The Roundup – A Summer Ready G-SHOCK, a Super Handy Knife, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
New watch brands pop up all the time, but it’s less frequent that they arrive with fully realized and distinct design language right from the jump. Usually it takes time for a brand to kind of settle into itself, work out the kinks, and figure out what it is that makes them different from their many, many competitors. Aera is a British brand that came onto the scene last year with their D-1 (a diver) and P-1 (a pilot’s watch), and have just announced a pair of follow up references that are very much in the same vein, but have some subtle improvements as well. At first glance, Aera’s watches look almost run-of-the-mill, but a glance at the specs and a closer look at the dial design and small details of how each component hangs together reveal watches that actually inhabit a unique space in the enthusiast market. In short, these watches are big in every sense of the word. They have unapologetically large 43mm 904L steel cases and come in at 16mm and 15mm thick (for the diver and pilot’s watch, respectively) thanks to dramatically domed, double curved sapphire crystals. There’s a bulbous quality to the case design that recalls Ikepod, and when I had a chance to briefly wear a D-1 last year I was pleasantly surprised by how comfortable it was for a watch that would normally be outside the limits of what I’d wear on a regular basis in terms of size alone. But they’re big in other ways too. The curved dials have large openings, much bigger than what you’d norma...
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Topo Designs Topo Designs Adds Classic River Silhouettes To Their Core Mountain Collection This week, Topo Designs has added their favorite River pieces to their core Mountain Collection. Their latest offering blends the lightweight, waterproof features of their River capsule with the durable, alpine style of their Mountain Collection, breeding a whole new set of versatile and eye-catching packs. Inspired by ‘70s interior design and the more vibrant colors of nature, this new addition provides a wide array of choices to keep your gear and other essentials organized for whatever you have planned for this Sping and beyond. The Mountain Gear Bag Via Topo Designs Out of the entire collection, we’re going to take a look at a few packs starting with the Mountain Gear Bag. In a silhouette that resembles a combination of a duffle and tote bag, the Mountain Gear Bag is built to throw any sort of essentials in its 48L main compartment, whether that be a pair of hiking boots, a change of clothes, a sleeping bag or any other combination you can think of, this utilitarian ...
Time+Tide
More often than not, when we engage with watches it is typically in a retail shop, watch fair or watch meetup. But the exhibition caseback of any watch brand is a visit to their manufacture. Visiting a manufacture is truly a window into the brand, and not just in the behind-the-scenes sense of seeing the … ContinuedThe post Zach’s visit to the IWC manufacture in Schaffhausen reveals the importance of ‘IWC-manufactured’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Why do watch fans love a good historical reissue? I can think of two reasons. First off, horological history has such a deep trove of interesting, important references to draw from, with a ton of classic models and innovative designs waiting to be discovered by new generations of fans. Secondly, they’re cool as hell, and … ContinuedThe post The new Accutron Astronaut and Bulova Lunar Pilot models celebrate their place in the space race appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
In a watch world increasingly populated by bolder and more eye-popping colorways, watches with white dials remain, for many, the epitome of elegance and understated style. White dials, in the estimation we used to compile the following list, are distinct from the more commonly seen “silvered” or “silver” dials, some of them with textures that enhance their three-dimensional appeal or matte finishes that impart to them an appealing sense of solidity. Scroll down to discover 25 of our favorite white-dial watches - as always, covering a wide array of price categories, and styles from dress to diver to pilot to GMT (no chronographs however; white “panda” dials with black subdials is a separate list). Mondaine Classics Swiss Railway Watch Price: $275, Case Size: 36 mm, Lug Width: 18 mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 30 m, Movement: Quartz Ronda 513 Founded in 1951 in Solothurn, Switzerland, Mondaine is a family-owned watch manufacturer that exudes pride in its essential Swissness (as evidenced by its logo, which incorporates the national flag. Mondaine’s signature product is also distinctly Swiss in its inspiration: the simply named Classics collection, the first of which was launched in 1986, derives its clean, ultra-legible, Bauhaus-flavored aesthetic from Switzerland’s distinctive (and notoriously accurate) railroad clocks. Based on the enduring design by Hans Hilfiker for the Federal Swiss Railways clock in 1944, the watch captures minimalism in...
Time+Tide
I get it, it’s the end of the week and you are probably rushing off to the pub to down a pint or slump on the couch to binge the latest Netflix series. But, before you wind down, here are three watch world highlights you may have missed. Massena HOUSE to be a new hub … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Massena HOUSE, Father’s Day watchmaking class coming to UK and Ferragamo watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Maria and Richard Habring of Habring² have long been revered as underappreciated makers of very fine timepieces, with the Austrian outfit a long-time enthusiast favourite. The topic of today’s story is their latest take on the new Habring² Doppel 38, made alongside previous collaborators Monochrome Watches, a Netherlands-based online watch magazine, run by watch nerd … ContinuedThe post Monochrome and Habring² team up for charity with the unique Doppel 38 Salmon Sector appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Our friends over at Huckberry are on a bit of a roll. They just teamed up with Timex for an Ironman Flix reissue that gave watch collectors of a certain age a hefty dose of nostalgia when they were least expecting it. And now we get word that they’re working with Unimatic, the Italian watch brand and design house, on a trio of colorful tool watches inspired by, as Unimatic puts it, colors and textures from the natural world. That feels right in line with the Huckberry ethos. They’re a retailer that is clearly bent towards outdoor adventure and a general fascination with cool gear, and the new Earthform Collection seen here slots nicely into their larger catalog. What we have here are three iterations of the Unimatic Modello Quattro, which is on the toolier end of Unimatic’s larger collection of tool watches. It’s essentially a Modello Uno (the brand’s dive watch) but with a fixed bezel, sans markings. So we get a highly legible diver-style dial with big plots of lume at the hour markers and a case that’s designed to meet a 300 meter water resistance rating, but without the extra moving piece of a bezel insert. It’s really a distillation of the Unimatic aesthetic, which itself is a distillation of classic sports watch design cues, filtered through a minimalist, Italian sensibility. First up is the Sandstone Modello Quattro, which has an orange dial with a fumé-like effect, but instead of fading to a darker tone at the dial’s perimeter, it appears darkes...
Hodinkee
A one-of-six pink gold perpetual calendar is set to be auctioned this week; it was once owned by an enigmatic millionaire whose life and death were the object of interest (and investigations).
Time+Tide
The Bulgari Aluminium collection has been expanded with bigger cases and new colours. The Capri Solotempo and Chronograph evoke the Italian island with an electric-blue gradient dial. The Match Point Edition adds a subtle touch of green for tennis lovers. The Bulgari Aluminium has always been a stealth watch, not because it has any degree … ContinuedThe post The new Bulgari Aluminium collection adds bigger cases and fresh colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Dive watches, as many of their enthusiasts know, are not generally known for being understated in their dimensions. This is, of course, by design, and in the service of both legibility and safety. To be used underwater, often in very dark conditions, a watch needs to be sizable enough (as well as luminous enough) for the wearer to discern both the time on the main hands as well as the remaining immersion period as set on the dive scale bezel. For these and other practical reasons, most watches built for diving tend to come in at 40mm and above in diameter. However, as the dive watch has become more a fashion statement and less a wearable tool - for ladies as well as gents - watchmakers have responded by downsizing some of their popular divers to offer more choices for a wider range of wearers, including those who will likely never wear their timepiece underwater. In some cases, the designs of these more modestly sized dive watches are even drawn from the brands’ archives, from historical eras in which smaller sizes were the norm, even for purpose-built tool watches like those made for divers. Using a 40mm diameter as our upper limit of “small,” here are 21 small dive watches, in ascending order of price, all of which combine professional-grade water resistance (at least 100 meters) with unisex appeal. Vostok Amphibia Price: $99, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 15mm, Lug-to-Lug: 49mm, Crystal: Acrylic, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Automatic Vostok Caliber 2416 Th...
SJX Watches
Seiko debuted its first solar-powered GPS watch just over a decade ago and has since improved and iterated the model, ranging from an extravagant, 18k pink gold limited edition to the asymmetric Giugiaro Design. But most of the Astron GPS watches to date have resembled gadgets, with cases featuring lots of buttons and dials with numerous indicators. Now Seiko has cleaned up the dial design and streamlined the case to create the Astron GPS Solar, which sports an octagonal titanium case and matching integrated bracelet. Initial thoughts Able to automatically set the time and time zone by syncing to GPS satellites, the Astron has always been an impressive piece of tech. But it has long looked like a piece of tech with its bulk case and fiddly interface. The limited edition SJJ017 The new Astron, however, looks like a wristwatch. With an integrated-bracelet and grid-like patterned dial, the new Astron ticks all the boxes in terms of the current fashionable in watch design. Granted, the design isn’t exactly original, but the sleek style and compact size mean the new Astron is more compelling offering than its predecessors. And the new models cost only slightly more than prior versions, making them a no-brainer for anyone who appreciates the tech but wants a more sophisticated design. A familiar construction The redesigned Astron is made up of elements that appear to be drawn from popular luxury-sports watches, most notably the octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet. Even...
Time+Tide
These days, for a manufacture not to have an integrated watch design is a bit like not having a smartphone. Sure, there may be a bit of respect for these flip-phone manufactures resisting the trend and times. But, ultimately, in the midst of the craze, having a solid integrated sports watch within a manufacture portfolio … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans & Ripples Date bring new colour and complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
There’s a certain level of homeland pride in every way that Bremont operates. It’s apparent in their designs and palpable throughout their entire company from top to bottom. The Giles brothers have made it their life’s mission to produce beautifully British-made mechanical watches and if there needs to be any more confirmation of how successfully that’s going, then let “The Wing”, Bremont’s vast campus and headquarters in Henley which has subsequently brought watchmaking back to U.K. shores, put any queries to bed. As Bremont ambassador and now friend of Worn & Wound, Alex Bescoby eloquently put it in a recent interview, “Bremont is all about beautifully putting together traditional and British design, and celebrating that.” Well, for the folks living across the pond, there’s lots to celebrate as this past weekend, in front of 2,200 ceremony attendees and millions watching around the world, King Charles III was crowned as Great Britain’s new monarch. It’s only fitting that Bremont, who already has an ongoing partnership with the Ministry of Defence (MoD) to honor His Majesty’s Armed Forces, has released two limited edition models that marks a moment in history with the coronation of His Majesty. The MBII King Charles III Limited Edition largely retains the familiar design cues of the Martin-Baker collection – dual crown configuration, internal rotating bezel, a distinct knurled barrel design and internal case reinforcements. As every other Bremo...
Time+Tide
Some of the most iconic models in the history of horology became so because they offered something unique. A new case design or a new concept, that was then transferred to new types of watches. Take Rolex for example. The brand developed the Submariner and then adapted the case and dial design to make a … ContinuedThe post Jack Mason develops a new collection comprising a GMT and a diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Gran Turismo Gran Turismo: The True Story Of How A Video Gamer Became A Professional Racing Driver How do we measure the space between imagination and real-life experience? Where is the line between what’s virtual and what’s real? For Jann Mardenborough, the only way for him to know was to cross that line and to never go back. Mardenborough was just 19 years old when he won the GT Academy, a competition that took the best Gran Turismo video game players from around the world and trained them so that they would be able to jump into an actual race car and drive upwards of 200 mph around some of the most iconic race tracks around the globe. Mardenborough’s career would accelerate from there, as he would go on to have a top 3 finish at Le Mans and a top-of-the-podium finish at GP3 in 2014. Although this sounds like a Cinderella story, there is an unfortunate tragedy that underlines the fact that professional race car driving is no longer a video game. There is no reset button. Via Gran Turismo Gran Turismo is a film that portrays Jann Mardenborough’s story f...
Hodinkee
Since Part One, some of history's missing watches have been found. But from Lennon to Aldrin and even J.P. Morgan, here are 10 watches we're still hoping to find.
Worn & Wound
Zurich based brand Maurice de Mauriac has added a new watch to their Chrono Modern collection inspired by their participation in the grueling North Cape Expedition. The 11 day expedition took a team to the northernmost point on the European continent, the tip of Norway, across the 71st parallel and into the Arctic circle. The task was undertaken by the Alpineracer team in a BMW E30 (with a Genesis GV70 coming along as a support vehicle), and Maurice de Mauriac created a special version of their toughest chronograph to mark the occasion. If you’re from a part of the world where there is significant snowfall in the winter, and you happen to also sometimes need to drive a car in those conditions, you know that even a few minutes on icey, snow covered roads in freezing weather can be anything from a nuisance to absolutely terrifying. It’s certainly not something I look forward to, and generally try to avoid when I have the opportunity to do so. Now imagine driving into increasingly more difficult and dangerous conditions for over a week. According to Maurice de Mauriac, the Alpineracer team experienced the requisite challenges with weather (hail, snow, and freezing rain, to start) and a handful of mechanical issues with the car, but ultimately they made it, and the photos that came out of the trip that you can see here are truly breathtaking. For participants (in both body and spirit) a watch connected to the journey feels like a fitting memento. The Chrono Modern Nort...
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