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#Kixntix: The toughness of the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph meets the minimalist luxury of Common Projects Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Chronograph meets Apr 24, 2021

#Kixntix: The toughness of the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph meets the minimalist luxury of Common Projects

The new Tudor Black Bay Chronograph for me definitely scratched an itch I was well aware of, well, two itches. While I’m always impressed by the mechanics of a chronograph complication, I prefer clean dials and the contrasts of a sharp panda. The beefy Black Bay chronograph has always been sharp in the looks department, … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: The toughness of the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph meets the minimalist luxury of Common Projects appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: What drives people to buy fake luxury goods? Time+Tide
Apr 22, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: What drives people to buy fake luxury goods?

As the largest brands within the fashion and watch industry wage war on fake luxury knock-offs, why do consumers continue to risk legal action for the mere look of success? While often stereotyped, counterfeit buyers are not a single group, argues Glyn Atwal  an Associate Professor at Burgundy School of Business in France, in this … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: What drives people to buy fake luxury goods? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black SJX Watches
Hublot Mar 23, 2021

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black

With no physical launch event this year, Omega unveiled its new watches in a prerecorded video that concluded with a cameo by its brand ambassador George Clooney. The line up was compact, indicating there will be more new models later in the year. There was only a single Seamaster Diver amongst the new offerings, and it was the Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black. Initial thoughts Reminiscent of the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon, Seamaster Black Black is typical of Omega in its quality and technology. It’s almost entirely ceramic on the outside, made up of components sintered, sculptured, and sanded with precision. And the Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement within boasts all of the brand’s technical innovations. For a bit under US$9,000, it is a fair deal for the quality and materials. But the all-black look is dated. The pioneer of the look was the Big Bang All Black of 2006, one of Jean-Claude Biver’s opening acts at Hublot. Its success created a wave of all-black watches that lasted for about a decade. And the novelty of the coloured ceramic will be quickly lost if additional variants in other colours of ceramic are introduced, as happened with the Dark Side of the Moon. Black ceramic The dial, bezel, case middle, and case back of the new Seamaster are all black ceramic, specifically zirconium dioxide, or ZrO2. The dial is etched with laser, creating an alternating polished and matte finish, with the polished elements standing out in slight relief. And to prese...

Cramain Introduces the Mark II Constant Force SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey which works i Dec 30, 2020

Cramain Introduces the Mark II Constant Force

Established in 2014, Cramain recently unveiled its first wristwatch, the Mark II Constant Force. Technically the brand’s second model – the Mark I was never commercialised – the Mark II is a hand-wound, time-only wristwatch equipped with a 20-second remontoir, and produced almost entirely by Kilian Leschnik, one half of the founding duo, the other being Dr Julian M. Stiels, a Swiss medical doctor with a keen interest in watches. Just 28 years old, Mr Leschnik completed his watchmaking studies in 2016. But the German watchmaker was already working on his own wristwatch in 2014, a timepiece that evolved out of his school watch. Cramain is a means to “live his dream as a mechanical artist”, says Mr Leschnik. Mr Leschnik and Dr Stiels developed the Mark II together, with Dr Stiels having taught himself computer-aided design, allowing him to construct do the construction of the watch and its movement. Starting two years ago, Dr Stiels has made Cramain his full-time calling. The pair are the sole owners of the brand, which is entirely self-funded. Part of it was made possible by prototyping work Mr Leschnik has done for various Swiss watch brands. Initial thoughts Impressive in both function and fabrication, the Mark II is evidently a wristwatch of extremely high quality, and one created by a watchmaker with a dedication to quality in form and finish. The Mark II’s design is a contemporary techno-mechanical style that is reminiscent of Greubel Forsey, which works i...

Sinn Introduces the 105 St Sa and 105 St Sa UTC SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces Nov 18, 2020

Sinn Introduces the 105 St Sa and 105 St Sa UTC

Alongside the unusual R500 “bullhead” chronograph, Sinn’s new debuts for the year include a pair of entry-level “tool” watches. The Series 105 is comprised of two models – 105 St Sa and 105 St Sa UTC – that are reminiscent of classic pilot’s watches, but in a clean, modern style with a dial populated by geometric shapes. Both are dual time zone watches, but executed differently. The 105 St Sa UTC is similar to a traditional GMT watch, having an additional 24-hour hand as well as a 24-hour rotating bezel. More unusual is the base model 105 St Sa, which has a bezel with two separate scales – 12-hour and 60-minute markings – that allows for measuring short elapsed times as well as tracking a second time zone. 105 St Sa (left) and 105 St Sa UTC Initial thoughts Starting at €1,350 for the base model, and rising to €1,790 for the UTC on a steel bracelet, the 105 is a value buy that manages to differentiate itself from the numerous “tool” watches in the same price segment. It has roots in Sinn’s Pilot Watch 104 – the brand’s long-standing, entry-level aviator’s watch – but the 105 is different enough to make it stand out. To start with, the dial design is simple but smart. The base model, for instance, manages to incorporate a day and date display in a symmetrical manner, preserving both legibility and balance. At the same time, the colours are unusual, especially the white and orange combination that is just as functional but avoids the all...

We watched every minute of the GPHG 2020 so you don’t have to. And you owe us a beer, it wasn’t amazing… Time+Tide
Nov 13, 2020

We watched every minute of the GPHG 2020 so you don’t have to. And you owe us a beer, it wasn’t amazing…

The 20th annual GPHG was streamed and broadcast live, with digital spectators tuning in around the world to see who would win what some refer to as “the Oscars” of watchmaking. Each year, an academy of industry experts, journalists and influencers is assembled to determine the nominees for these prestigious awards – with 30 of … ContinuedThe post We watched every minute of the GPHG 2020 so you don’t have to. And you owe us a beer, it wasn’t amazing… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cut costs, not quality: 5 superb Rolex Explorer alternatives, including Grand Seiko, Tudor and more Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Tudor Nov 7, 2020

Cut costs, not quality: 5 superb Rolex Explorer alternatives, including Grand Seiko, Tudor and more

I’m not alone in considering the Rolex Explorer one of the best examples of clean, sharp, monochromatic watches out there. But it’s fair to ask – for any of a host of very fair reasons – what are the best Rolex Explorer alternatives if you can’t get a direct path to the Crown? It’s not … ContinuedThe post Cut costs, not quality: 5 superb Rolex Explorer alternatives, including Grand Seiko, Tudor and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition is a triple threat of pearl dial, diamonds and on-trend oversized case Time+Tide
Longines Record Australian Limited Edition Oct 28, 2020

VIDEO: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition is a triple threat of pearl dial, diamonds and on-trend oversized case

Despite being an important pillar of the brand today, the Longines Record Collection is sometimes overlooked by the collector community. In its most refined form, the Record Collection represents the clean classicism that is so beautifully embodied by the brand, and offers a breadth of watches tailored for everyday wear. This year Longines have continued … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition is a triple threat of pearl dial, diamonds and on-trend oversized case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to steal a watch, and how Rolex stole the show (with 1mm) Time+Tide
Rolex stole Sep 3, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to steal a watch, and how Rolex stole the show (with 1mm)

I swear we didn’t collaborate on it. It was pure and unintended serendipity. The two most popular stories this week on Watchville (an app you should download here if you don’t already have it, if only for the clock to set your watches to!) were titled: ‘How to steal a watch clean off someone’s wrist…’ … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to steal a watch, and how Rolex stole the show (with 1mm) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition Time+Tide
Longines Record Australian Limited Edition Jul 30, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition

The Longines Record Collection is an important pillar of the brand today, representing the clean classicism that is embodied by the brand. The Heritage Collection is popular with the vintage enthusiast, just as the Sport Collection is a favourite of the adventurous type, and the Record Collection is designed to be an everyday companion and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Glashütte Original Introduces the PanoLunarTourbillon Limited Edition SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces Jul 17, 2020

Glashütte Original Introduces the PanoLunarTourbillon Limited Edition

Contemporary yet traditional, the Pano collection has been a staple of Glashütte Original’s offerings. The latest Pano wristwatch is a departure from the line’s typically clean styling – the PanoLunarTourbillon Limited Edition. Limited to 25 watches with a platinum case, the new watch is a variant the standard tourbillon model, dressed up with impeccable engraving on the dial and movement. Initial thoughts With hand-engraved filigree decoration across the dial (and movement, this is easily one of the most attractive in the Pano collection, more so than the standard PanoLunarTourbillon. Similar to the decoration usually found only on the balance cock of Glashütte Original movements, the engraving is made up of pronounced lines and a complex pattern, giving the watch a markedly different character from the standard model. The hand engraving was executed in Glashütte Original’s dial factory in Pforzheim And the look is further enhanced by the metallic blue of panorama date, hands, indices and moon phase, a blue-on-silver livery that provides a sharp and elegant contrast. While the look is elegantly ornate, it’s a big watch, clocking in at 40 mm wide and 13.10 mm tall, probably a bit too big for a watch of this style. The case size suits contemporary tastes, but something thinner and perhaps 38 mm in diameter would work better with the design. German aesthetic Underneath the decoration, the watch is identical to the standard PanoLunarTourbillon. It retains the a...

Why getting your Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved is worth the wait Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved Feb 25, 2020

Why getting your Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved is worth the wait

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is a paragon of the Art Deco dress watch style, delivering a clean and classic design that has remained the same for the best part of a hundred years. While most watches with a solid caseback offer ample space for an engraving, the Reverso offers more than most thanks to its beautifully … ContinuedThe post Why getting your Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved is worth the wait appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Great ‘Grams: The world timer edition Time+Tide
Feb 20, 2020

Great ‘Grams: The world timer edition

The world timer complication on a wristwatch has been popular for decades, long before the commercialisation of the jet aircraft, thanks to its clean simplicity and obvious usefulness. The capacity for a watch to tell you the time anywhere in the world, without the need for a highly complicated dial layout or training in pure … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: The world timer edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Semper & Adhuc Rescues Homeless Vintage Movements SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Feb 5, 2020

Semper & Adhuc Rescues Homeless Vintage Movements

French startup Semper & Adhuc is making its debut with a familiar proposition: affordable, time-only watches, but with a historically conscious twist – each watch is powered by a homeless vintage movement. Also unusual is the fact that while the movements are Swiss, namely the A. Schild AS 1012, every other part of the watch, including case, dial, and hands, is made in France. The brand was started in 2016 by watchmaker Colin de Tonnac, who spent several years at Patek Philippe in Geneva before setting up Semper & Adhuc in Bordeaux. The inaugural line-up is made up of three minimalist watches with quirky details and form cases, but the most interesting bit is the slightly romantic rationale behind the movement inside. Saving abandoned movements All three models are powered by the same calibre, the hand-wound AS 1012 produced by A. Schild, a Grenchen-based movement maker that was once one of Switzerland’s largest. Produced from 1936 to 1960, the AS 1012 is an unusual movement because it is, or rather was, an oval form calibre destined for ladies’ watches, explaining the compact size of about 13 mm by 15 mm. It has 17 or 21 jewels depending on the version, and a 36-hour power reserve. Examples of the AS 1012 and its variants The AS 1012 was inexpensive and robust, making it popular enough that millions were produced. And after the Quartz Crisis, a good number of the movements – likely the majority of them – were in watches that were no longer desirable. That wa...

Gerontohorologyphobia: A Young Man’s Fear Of Being Seen Wearing An Old Man’s Watch Quill & Pad
Dec 26, 2019

Gerontohorologyphobia: A Young Man’s Fear Of Being Seen Wearing An Old Man’s Watch

Colin was wearing a steel watch with blue dial when the receptionist at the trading company he was working for, a chirpy lass straight out of the BBC’s 'Eastenders' soap opera, looked down disdainfully and said, “I hate watches with blue dials. They remind me of old men in pubs.” What happened after that can only be described as a case of gerontohorologyphobia: fear of inadvertently wearing an old man's watch.

Khanjar And Qaboos Rolexes: Are They The Vintage Watch Industry’s Blood Diamonds? Quill & Pad
Rolex es Are They Dec 5, 2019

Khanjar And Qaboos Rolexes: Are They The Vintage Watch Industry’s Blood Diamonds?

Increasing demand for timepieces, especially Rolexes, with the Omani emblem is understandable given the high quality, good condition, demonstrable provenance, and rarity of most of these watches, combined with the fact that they had often been presented to their first owners in the 1970s by Sultan Qaboos in person as a token of gratitude for services rendered. Colin Alexander Smith takes a very close look at the meaning behind these rare timepieces.

Hands-On: F.P. Journe Octa Réserve de Marche Prototype SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Octa Réserve de Marche Dec 2, 2019

Hands-On: F.P. Journe Octa Réserve de Marche Prototype

As has become tradition, a good part of Phillips’ upcoming New York watch auction is a memorabilia sale of sorts, including watches owned by Marlon Brando, golfer Jack Nicklaus, and astronaut John Glenn, as well as the Urwerk worn by Robert Downey Jr. while playing Iron Man in Avengers: Endgame. The auction also includes a piece of historical horological memorabilia: an F.P. Journe Octa Réserve de Marche prototype. The prototype is largely identical to the later, serially produced version of the watch – the case is platinum and the dial, yellow gold – but is marked as a prototype on the case back, and also bears the various traits unique to early watches made by Francois-Paul Journe. The cal. 1300 Launched in 2002 and discontinued in 2014, the Octa Réserve de Marche was the brand’s first entry-level wristwatch, powered by an automatic movement, the cal. 1300. Originally conceived to have an eight-day power reserve – hence “Octa” – the movement instead has a power reserve of 120 hours, or about five days. Reputedly constructed with a gear train borrowed from a robust and well-known hand-wind movement plus an extra-large mainspring, the cal. 1300 was the base calibre for the entire Octa line. Although a variety of complications were added on top, ranging from the Octa Chronograph to the annual calendar of the Octa Calendrier, all versions of the movement had identical height of 5.7mm regardless of function. The slimness and smart construction did come at th...

VIDEO: Automotive attitude with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Nov 11, 2019

VIDEO: Automotive attitude with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16

This year, the brand known for their focus on avant-garde techniques has updated one of their most iconic sporting chronographs, to produce the best-looking TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 in recent years. With an aesthetic of clean refinement, the less-is-more approach has come up trumps in a watch that prioritises robust functionality over notions of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Automotive attitude with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Frederique Constant Introduces the Regatta Countdown Chronograph SJX Watches
Frederique Constant Introduces Sep 15, 2019

Frederique Constant Introduces the Regatta Countdown Chronograph

A Swiss brand now owned by Citizen Watch of Japan, Frederique Constant excels at complications in an affordable and reasonable manner, and now it has added the Regatta Countdown Chronograph to its repertoire. Unlike many yachting watches that are often over-designed with nautical details – think pennants and lots of colours – Frederique Constant has kept its regatta chronograph clean. Priced a bit over US$3000, the Yacht Timer Regatta Countdown has two key elements: central chronograph seconds hand and five circular apertures lined up under 12 o’clock. The apertures function as a 5- or 10-minute regatta countdown timer; this records the time just before the start of a race when yachts position themselves for the best spot at the starting line. When the chronograph is inactive, the apertures show white discs. Once started with the pusher at two o’clock, the apertures turn blue one by one, with each aperture representing one elapsed minute. After five minutes, and five blue apertures, the five-minute countdown to the race begins. The apertures progressively change from showing blue to orange, again at the rate of one a minute. The dials – blue or silver – are straightforward, apart from the countdown windows, and decorated with a hobnail guilloche. Luminous hands match the luminous baton hour markers. Rated to 100m, the case is steel (or gold-plated steel), and 42mm in diameter. Notably, it’s fitted with an upscale, “box-type” sapphire crystal that has ...

Hands-On: H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Aug 2, 2019

Hands-On: H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept

Every year H. Moser & Cie. introduces an over the top, sometimes controversial watch – this year’s headliner was covered in grass – while also doing the opposite with its minimalist “concept” watches. Forsaking logos and numerals or indices, the concept watches have a clean yet colourful aesthetic coupled with appealing in-house movements – a tribute to stealth luxury. The latest iteration of the idea is the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Cosmic Green, a variation of the first model from two years ago. The watch now has a sublime green fumé dial. Though Moser relies on graduated dials often, maybe too often, it is still an attractive look, here with the added interest provided by the flying tourbillon. While not unique to Moser, the graduated tone fumé dials are almost a better calling card than the brand’s logo. In fact, all of Moser’s bestsellers feature this intriguing finish that has the dial colour darkening towards the edge, with the effect now available in several colour variations, including blue, grey and green. The green dial is striking, and quite mesmerising the first time you see it. Up close, the dial is more subdued than in the stock images of the watch, more sea green than forest green. Given the emptiness of the upper half of the dial, the sunburst finish is obvious and complements the gradual external colour change. The flying tourbillon The focal point of the lower half of the dial is the one-minute, flying t...

Nomos flex their muscles with their new Club and Tangente Sport models Time+Tide
Nomos flex their muscles Apr 30, 2019

Nomos flex their muscles with their new Club and Tangente Sport models

Since their inception in 1990, Nomos Glashütte have had a remarkably clear visual and stylistic aesthetic. Clean and refined. Utilitarian, leaning towards the dressy. Unmistakably German. Or, to use the shorthand - Bauhaus.  In the earlier years of Nomos, this distinctive styling was paired with some solid watchmaking, and a very strong value proposition. All … ContinuedThe post Nomos flex their muscles with their new Club and Tangente Sport models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

This is what a dress watch should look like - the Breguet Classique 7147 Time+Tide
Breguet Classique 7147 Editor’s note Apr 21, 2019

This is what a dress watch should look like - the Breguet Classique 7147

Editor’s note: There’s a risk with dress watches that they become overly simple. Boring even. That’s not what’s going on with the Breguet Classique 7147, which manages to balance clean design, fine detail and Breguet’s storied design codes in one neat golden package … The story in a second: Breguet’s updated Classique 7147 offers traditional style, … ContinuedThe post This is what a dress watch should look like – the Breguet Classique 7147 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Nodus Avalon - it may be green but this Nodus is ripe for the picking Time+Tide
Nodus Feb 16, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Nodus Avalon - it may be green but this Nodus is ripe for the picking

“Living the dream” is how I’d best describe the two co-founders of microbrand watch company Nodus. The pair may be relative new recruits to the micro-watchmaking game, but Cullen Chen and Wesley Kwok have turned their passion for watches into their dream business, releasing their debut model, the Nodus Trieste, in 2017, taking its inspiration … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Nodus Avalon – it may be green but this Nodus is ripe for the picking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic Time+Tide
Jaquet Droz Feb 14, 2019

INTRODUCING: Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic

In the last few years, skeletonised watches have undergone a renaissance. Once overly designed and overwrought, at some point this distinctive genre segued from niche to very nice indeed. And Jaquet Droz’s Skelet-One is a great example of this new breed. Clean and simple, rather than ornate, is the name of the game for this … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INSIGHT: Inside the award-winning world of Rexhep Rexhepi’s Akrivia Time+Tide
Rexhep Rexhepi Jan 22, 2019

INSIGHT: Inside the award-winning world of Rexhep Rexhepi’s Akrivia

The day after SIHH, I found myself walking around the cobbled streets of Geneva’s old town. It’s a very different Geneva to the vast, softly furnished halls of the Palexpo, or even the squat monoliths of the famed manufactures, with their clean rooms and airlocks. No, this street was winding, cobbled and, even though the … ContinuedThe post INSIGHT: Inside the award-winning world of Rexhep Rexhepi’s Akrivia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Everyday elegance - the Blancpain Villeret Grande Date Jour Rétrograde Time+Tide
Blancpain Villeret Grande Date Jour Nov 20, 2018

HANDS-ON: Everyday elegance - the Blancpain Villeret Grande Date Jour Rétrograde

Named after Blancpain’s picturesque Swiss village home, the Villeret collection represents the spiritual heart and soul of the brand. Marking the point at which the Maison’s centuries-old elegance meets modern-day innovation, with each model designed with pure lines, slim case profiles, and clean dials that embody the enduring respect Blancpain holds for traditional watchmaking. The … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Everyday elegance – the Blancpain Villeret Grande Date Jour Rétrograde appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

NEWS: Cartier on screen and in style for Ocean’s 8  Time+Tide
Cartier Jun 5, 2018

NEWS: Cartier on screen and in style for Ocean’s 8 

Disclaimer: This post contains minimal traces of watch. But it does contain some very large diamonds. Ocean’s 8, the latest in the long-running series of elaborate heist movies, is about to hit our screens, but this time around the film is less of a bro session, as Clooney, Pitt et al. have been benched in … ContinuedThe post NEWS: Cartier on screen and in style for Ocean’s 8  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Looking great in grey - the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date  Time+Tide
Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date  Jun 3, 2018

HANDS-ON: Looking great in grey - the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date 

It’s easy with any brand’s new release catalogue to get swept up with the drama and complexity of the halo pieces. In the case of Glashütte Original that glory goes to the flashy green of the Sixties Panorama Date, or the bells and whistles of the Senator Cosmopolite. But sometimes you crave something simple, clean … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Looking great in grey – the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.