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HANDS-ON: Looking great in grey - the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date  Time+Tide
Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date  Jun 3, 2018

HANDS-ON: Looking great in grey - the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date 

It’s easy with any brand’s new release catalogue to get swept up with the drama and complexity of the halo pieces. In the case of Glashütte Original that glory goes to the flashy green of the Sixties Panorama Date, or the bells and whistles of the Senator Cosmopolite. But sometimes you crave something simple, clean … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Looking great in grey – the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: the Metro neomatik Champagner - a new look for Nomos Time+Tide
Nomos Jan 30, 2017

HANDS-ON: the Metro neomatik Champagner - a new look for Nomos

For many years, the Nomos recipe for watchmaking success was straightforward: take clean-yet-quirky dial details with a few dashes of colour, set this against a neutral black or white backdrop and wrap the whole thing into a steel case. Not the most groundbreaking approach, but it’s certainly been effective in helping Nomos – once the definition … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: the Metro neomatik Champagner – a new look for Nomos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Citizen’s Latest Gets Indigo Washi Paper Dial SJX Watches
Grand Seiko s cal 9F movement 1h ago

The Citizen’s Latest Gets Indigo Washi Paper Dial

Next month Citizen’s The Citizen collection brings a new look to its exceedingly accurate high-end quartz watches. Still accurate to five seconds a year, or better, with a perpetual calendar and scratch-resistant titanium case, this limited edition introduces an indigo-dyed washi paper dial, produced using traditional craft methods. Initial thoughts Citizen’s The Citizen collection, which celebrated 30 years of questionable naming just last year, remains somewhat obscure even amongst watch enthusiasts. That’s unfortunate, as it has nothing to do with the quality of the watches, which are excellent and often handsome. And while the line now includes mechanical watches, high-end quartz is where The Citizen really shines. No two examples are the same. Though frequently compared to Grand Seiko’s cal. 9F movement family, I would argue The Citizen’s A0 line of solar quartz movements are of a different breed, more comparable to Seiko’s cal. 3X Astron movements or even Casio’s high-end G-Shocks. These share solar charging, a perpetual calendar, and a power-save made that pauses the hands to save energy when the watch is not in use. However, The Citizen’s aesthetic differs widely from those of the Astron and G-Shock, favouring the sharply reserved style that has defined chronometry-focused Japanese watchmaking for decades. The other key difference is autonomy. Unlike Astrons and G-Shocks, which can vary by as much as 15 seconds per month without network synchronisat...

Do New Dials And Colors For Hamilton’s Khaki Navy Scuba Lineup Do The Trick? Fratello
Hamilton s Khaki Navy Scuba 1h ago

Do New Dials And Colors For Hamilton’s Khaki Navy Scuba Lineup Do The Trick?

When I hear the name Hamilton, dive watches aren’t the first things that come to mind. The Swiss brand with American roots is mostly known for its great lineup of military field watches. On top of that, the classic Ventura and the Intra-Matic Chronograph are among its more famous offerings. That said, the Khaki Navy […] Visit Do New Dials And Colors For Hamilton’s Khaki Navy Scuba Lineup Do The Trick? to read the full article.

First Look - The Sicura Hexa 400 Marks the Return of a Forgotten Swiss Tool Watch Name Monochrome
14h ago

First Look - The Sicura Hexa 400 Marks the Return of a Forgotten Swiss Tool Watch Name

Few now remember the Swiss watchmaking name Sicura. Founded in Grenchen in 1939, the brand enjoyed success during the 1960s and 1970s under Ernest Schneider, producing affordable, unconventional watches that combined unusual functions with bold styling. Sicura experimented with everything from compressor-style divers and jump-hour displays to LED watches, solar-powered and multi-function tool watches, all […]

The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino Rose Gold: A Stunning Take On Contrast Fratello
Bianchet 21h ago

The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino Rose Gold: A Stunning Take On Contrast

I will admit it: when Bianchet first launched quietly in 2017, the idea of another openworked tourbillon watch wasn’t overly intriguing. Then again, as a traditionalist, I tended to dismiss watches like this in the past. But, as they say, the past is the past. Now, I enjoy more theater in my timepieces. Painstaking finishing, […] Visit The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino Rose Gold: A Stunning Take On Contrast to read the full article.

Don’t Get A Seiko SKX - Buy This Classic Model Instead! Fratello
Seiko SKX — Buy Yesterday

Don’t Get A Seiko SKX - Buy This Classic Model Instead!

I was never a fan of the Seiko SKX. There, I said it. I know this will get me into trouble with a lot of watch lovers because the SKX’s legacy is grand. For many enthusiasts, the SKX007 or SKX009 was the gateway into the world of mechanical watches. As such, Seiko’s legendary diver was […] Visit Don’t Get A Seiko SKX — Buy This Classic Model Instead! to read the full article.

Citizen Introduces the Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip” Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Citizen Introduces Yesterday

Citizen Introduces the Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip” Limited Edition

It’s devilishly easy to be reeled in by the promise of a limited edition item. The allure of exclusivity, the potential for appreciation, the collectability factor: all perfectly reasonable excuses to cash in on a limited watch. Still, most enthusiasts (myself included) are understandably frustrated when these cool limited models come at a hefty price tag or feel like unobtainium due to double-digit production volume. Enter watches like the new Citizen Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip”, which, while technically limited at 12,000 units, promises a more affordable and obtainable entry into the limited edition collectible world, while still retaining some of that “exclusive” magic.  Citizen’s Tsuyosa collection has made quite the name for itself as a bold, sub-$1,000 line of automatic watches. Most of the models involve loud colors and subtle, minimalist design, making them great choices for everyday wear, or a new enthusiast’s first mechanical watch. The Time Slip joins two other skin diver-adjacent Shore models in the Tsuyosa line. Like the non-limited previous models, it boasts 100 meters of water resistance within a 40mm stainless steel case. Inside, a caliber 8210 automatic movement powers the stop second and date (with a “cyclops” style magnifying window) functions. It’s a neat little package that allows for the robust longevity of a mechanical movement, but even with a unidirectional bezel and added legibility features like luminous hands and indices, it d...

Heavenly Horology: Understanding Astronomical Complications SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Copernicus Celestial Spheres depicts 2 days ago

Heavenly Horology: Understanding Astronomical Complications

All timekeeping is astronomical in origin. Perhaps for this reason, clocks and watches capable of reproducing the movements of the heavens in miniature have long ranked among the highest expressions of horology. Astronomical complications mechanically encode vast celestial cycles into concise visual displays. Such mechanisms featured prominently in the collections of European monarchs and nobles, and later those of the industrialists and financiers who succeeded them as horology’s most ambitious patrons. The Vacheron Constantin Copernicus Celestial Spheres depicts the elliptical orbit of the Earth around the Sun, resulting in a calendar of sorts read against the signs of the zodiac. Yet many astronomical complications are based on principles that have been understood for thousands of years, and are often simpler — mechanically speaking — than more commonplace complications like chronographs. The tension between their relatively straightforward operation and their profound historical meaning makes them difficult to place within the traditional hierarchy of complications. This calls into question whether such a hierarchy even exists. Time comes from above Long before the development of mechanical clocks, humans attempted to relate the passage of time to observations of the heavens. The rising and setting of the Sun, the changing phase of the Moon, and the return of the seasons helped determine when to plant, harvest, travel and perform religious ceremonies. A fragment ...

Hanhart Introduces the Square by Square, a Limited Edition of Six Prototypes Worn & Wound
2 days ago

Hanhart Introduces the Square by Square, a Limited Edition of Six Prototypes

What do you think of when you think of Hanhart? I think it’s fair to say that for most of us, the watches that come to mind immediately are very distinctly tool oriented watches. Aviation inspired chronographs with that iconic red pusher, simple but tough field watches, and maybe a diver for good measure. And while certainly the brand dabbles in more elegant fare from time to time, a shaped design forward watch like the Square by Square feels very unexpected. But maybe it shouldn’t? We are, after all, in a moment where everyone is trying their hand at stone dials, shaped cases, and generally challenging the sensibilities of a market previously laser focused on sports watches.  Hanhart, of course, has been around for a very long time, and the Square by Square’s DNA can be traced back to shaped watches in the brand’s extensive archive. This is, however, a completely new design. The brand worked with Marcus Wiedemann, a Munich based designer they have collaborated with previously, on the Square by Square, which was originally an entry in the Dubai Watch Week x Grail Watch Design Competition. The design wound up being named as a finalist in the (very specific) “Most out-of-the-box, innovative yet viable shaped watch design” category.  What we have here is a case that at first presents as a square, but tilted so that it sits on the wrist in a diamond shape. The chief design inspiration here, beyond the Hanhart archives, is the idea of “curved spacetime” and th...

Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Khaki Hodinkee
Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One 2 days ago

Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Khaki

Chopard came out of Watches and Wonders this year swinging by simply introducing a new colored dial in the L.U.C. 1860, and perhaps it was a great indicator that sometimes, a show-stealer need not be a new mechanical innovation, but rather a refinement of an already great watch. But I would be remiss not to also talk about another release I loved seeing from the brand this year—also really just a new colorway in a limited run of 250 pieces—that I think has not gotten nearly enough love. The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One ref. 168574-3013, in ceramicized titanium with a khaki green dial, marks a decade since the Time Traveler One's original introduction back in 2016. While the overall design of the worldtimer hasn't really changed, the brand hasn't held back in its use of different colors and metal variations for the model, leading to a varied back catalog for this single watch. This new version, with its combination of matte grey, green, and yellow, stands out quite a bit in Chopard's L.U.C lineup. It's the only L.U.C currently in production with a travel complication, and its understated, slightly rugged look literally contrasts with the generally polished, dressy executions of the other L.U.C models. That industrial vibe is thanks to the all-matte, sandblasted dark grey look of the ceramicized grade 5 titanium used for the 42mm by 12.09mm case, including both crowns—the one at 2 o'clock sets the local time and the date, while the crown at 4 o'clock adjusts the cit...

Introducing - The Fascinating Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck is back in Rose Gold Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck 2 days ago

Introducing - The Fascinating Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck is back in Rose Gold

Astronomical watches are part of Ulysse Nardin‘s identity, and Dr Ludwig Oechslin, like no other, shaped this chapter of the manufacture’s history. Shortly after entrepreneur Rolf Schnyder acquired the brand in 1983, he challenged the Swiss astronomer, mathematician and watchmaker to create a wristwatch capable of displaying the movements of celestial bodies. The result was […]

Explained: Grande Sonnerie Click Wheels SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch 3 days ago

Explained: Grande Sonnerie Click Wheels

A visual staple of grande sonnerie watches is a pair of large, highly finished and intriguing-looking click wheels. Continuing our exploration of various horological energy systems — including winding efficiency and the fusee and chain — we examine the linkage of ratchets, clicks and wide-toothed gears that comprise the winding works of some of the industry’s best chiming watches. A Patek Philippe grande sonnerie movement from 1915. One crown for two barrels The grande sonnerie is rightfully considered the pinnacle of chiming complications. With the ability to automatically sound the hours and quarters, a grande sonnerie requires heaps of power to keep it going over the course of a day. As a result, most grande sonnerie movements rely on a second mainspring barrel that is isolated from the timekeeping going train. The requirement for independent barrels stems from the different rates at which the barrels unwind. The striking works require a faster-turning barrel that’s only active for short periods, while the going train feeds from a slow and steady barrel. Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch crafted by Philippe Dufour. As the barrels discharge unevenly, it makes sense that they cannot be wound in sync. Winding both mainsprings in sync would typically over-strain one of them since their winding states are rarely the same at any given time. Although the two barrels themselves are separated, they often share the same winding train. Now a signature of Vallée...

Owner’s Review: the Serica 5303-3 Worn & Wound
Isotope 3 days ago

Owner’s Review: the Serica 5303-3

Over the last few years, Serica has emerged as one of these small indies or microbrands that has a real identity, seemingly right out of the gate. We often talk about brand like Ming, or Brew, or SpaceOne as new independents that are approachable and have a very distinct design language that you can recognize from across the room, but those brands have a cheat code of sorts in that they make watches that are unapologetically contemporary, or even looking toward the future. Having a genuinely unique perspective aesthetically when you trade in watches that have a vintage vibe about them is a very different proposition. It’s honestly very tough to think of a brand other than Serica that has attempted to do this and managed to pull it off so effectively.  The trick, I think, is that they’ve never attempted to actually recreate anything specific from the past. Rather, they’re inspired by vintage design codes, but feel a sense of freedom to interpret those ideas through their own lens. It’s not a modern lens, necessarily (I think that’s where a lot of brands get tripped up, trying to combine the aesthetic of a bunch of different eras in a single watch), but more of an imagined past, or alternate history.  Serica is not the only brand to take an approach like this. Isotope and Albishorn have both worked in a similar fashion in recent years, sometimes explicitly developing an elaborate fictional narrative to explain a watch (as is the case with Albishorn), and sometime...

Happenings: Join Us For This Month's Hodinkee Happy Hour [RSVP Here] Hodinkee
3 days ago

Happenings: Join Us For This Month's Hodinkee Happy Hour [RSVP Here]

It's the last week of July, so that means it's time for another Hodinkee Happy Hour! This installment will be held at Watches of Switzerland on Green St in SoHo. Space will be limited, and we may have something new and limited to show you, so please RSVP below if you'd like to join for a couple of hours of excellent local beer, pizza, and a whole lot of watches.  Our Editor-in-Chief, James Stacey, will be there, along with members of the Hodinkee team. Whether you've been to several of our events or this is your first, we'd love to have you! It's a great, casual way to get to know members of the Hodinkee team and the watch community here in New York City. Date:Thursday, July 30, 2026, 4:30 - 6:30 PM Location:Watches of Switzerland, SoHo60 Greene StreetNew York, NY 10012 Click here to RSVP. 

Introducing - New Indie Atelier Pieters Introduces Its Inaugural Watch, the Atelier 1 Founders’ Series Monochrome
Ming 3 days ago

Introducing - New Indie Atelier Pieters Introduces Its Inaugural Watch, the Atelier 1 Founders’ Series

There’s a new indie watch brand on the scene. It seems that we’re telling this story every week. Sometimes, or should I say rather often, these new ventures are coming with pretty fascinating inaugural watches. So is the case of Atelier Pieters, a company founded by couple Maarten and Jessica Pieters. Two watchmakers, one workshop, […]

In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Victorin Piguet Split-Second Wristwatch Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet 3 days ago

In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Victorin Piguet Split-Second Wristwatch

In our first addendum to our Reference Points video and story on Patek Philippe split-second wristwatches, we looked at Patek Philippe split-second pocket watches and the brand's relationship with its supplier, Victorin Piguet. Switzerland has (and continues to have) the most robust supplier marketplace for everything from complex movements to dials and cases. In the warmer months of the late 19th and early 20th Centuries, it was easy enough to just send someone on a short journey to the Vallée de Joux with a letter requesting a movement or other parts and receive one a short time later. These établisseurs all had their own specialties, but few were as important as Victorin Piguet. I'd argue it was far more unusual for Victorin Piguet not to be involved in a watch (such as their absence from the La Grosse Pièce project for Audemars Piguet) than to see their name on supplier lists. So what was their impact on wristwatches? In our video, we focused solely on serially produced models (and even then, there were a few we couldn't get our hands on), all of which started after Patek shifted its production more in-house. One thing we didn't discuss, however, was the history of the brand's first split-seconds wristwatches, which used a Victorin Piguet ébauche. It's no understatement that these watches are among the most important in Patek Philippe's history and among the most coveted for vintage-focused Patek collectors. One-off, bespoke pieces, these watches don't exactly fit...

In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Pocket Watch Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Pocket Watch Just 3 days ago

In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Pocket Watch

Just last week, we published a Reference Points video on the Patek Philippe split-seconds wristwatch. The complication itself—a.k.a. the rattrapante—is incredibly important in the brand's history, forming the backbone for some of its greatest and most coveted watches of all time. However, you can't talk about the history of the split without understanding Patek's pocket watches. It's a story that eventually led to one of the brand's most meaningful relationships with a supplier that helped it grow into a powerhouse, a relationship that would last over a century. Instead of going deep in the weeds on pocket watches in our main Reference Points, we're spinning it off into this secondary article—an addendum of sorts—for those who want a bit more background. The story won't be exhaustive; Patek continued to make split-second pocket watches long after they began making the same complication in wristwatch form, and some such watches deserve (and have had) their own standalone stories. There are also many different versions because Patek, at the time, didn't make things in batches the way they would starting in the 1930s. You could probably write 20,000 words on these pocket watches, but rather than go that deep, here's an overview of Patek's split-seconds pocket watches, with a focus on Victorin Piguet's movements. Understanding Patek's History of Split-Seconds Pocket Watches (1878 to 1970s) and the Importance of Victorin Piguet If you read the first part of our story, y...

SJX Podcast: A Rolling Rolex SJX Watches
Rolex 4 days ago

SJX Podcast: A Rolling Rolex

In episode 46 of the SJX Podcast, we examine the Swiss watch industry’s June export figures, which confirm the strength of the American market and reveal the impact of the Royal Pop. The episode also explores Rolex’s unexpected activity in clockmaking, beginning with the brand’s patents for a traditional inclined-plane clock that was hiding in plain sight at Watches & Wonders. We also share impressions of the Rolex Submariner Desk Clock released late last year — a conservative-looking but impressively constructed object powered by an unusually sophisticated quartz movement. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Vs. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 5 days ago

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Vs. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for a cup of coffee and a battle between two watches to start your day. For this week’s Sunday Morning Showdown, we have picked two chronographs from sister brands. Daan picked the new Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee.” This smaller version of the Black Bay Chrono gained […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Vs. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to read the full article.

Lorier Re-Introduces Four of their Classics: the Neptune, Hyperion, Astra, and Falcon Worn & Wound
Lorier 6 days ago

Lorier Re-Introduces Four of their Classics: the Neptune, Hyperion, Astra, and Falcon

Editor’s Note: Lorier is owned by Worn & Wound. This article was produced by Worn & Wound’s editorial team, which operates independently of the company’s business and brand operations. If you’re a loyal reader of Worn & Wound, you’ve probably seen the news that Lorier has been brought into the fold. The world of microbrand watches, like any start-up industry, is full-to-bursting with innovation and the craziness that follows, and this new partnership is a great way to keep the boundary-pushing designs flowing. So, with the announcement just barely out the door, we have four re-introduced Lorier models on the way, and long-time fans of the brand will be pleased to see some favorites on the docket. First up is the re-release of the sleek, dressy Astra; at 36mm in case diameter and 8.8mm in thickness, the Astra is meant to invoke everyday elegance with a touch of tool watch functionality. The original watch followed Lorier’s vintage-inspired cues, and emphasized the small size but robust finish, placing it firmly in the dressy-sport watch category. This new model, however, takes both sides of that coin to more elevated heights, and stronger tool watch conventions. A Miyota 9039 automatic movement forms the heart of the watch, boasting a 100-meter water resistance rating, and a sapphire crystal protects the dial.  Without a date window, the dial of the Astra maintains its distraction-free aesthetic, and adds dimensionality via a silver-white base that catches ligh...

Introducing - The Hanhart Aquasphere Dive Watch, now in Matte Black Monochrome
6 days ago

Introducing - The Hanhart Aquasphere Dive Watch, now in Matte Black

In 2024, German brand Hanhart went beyond its traditional pilot’s watches with the Aquasphere, a dive watch that combined robust specifications with the brand’s distinctive design. The new Aquasphere Matte Black, fundamentally unchanged, brings a darker, more restrained execution that emphasises functionality over flair. It swaps the original blue colourway with a black and white […]

Introducing - The Lebois & Co Heritage Atelier with Clous de Paris and Stroopwafel Dials Monochrome
6 days ago

Introducing - The Lebois & Co Heritage Atelier with Clous de Paris and Stroopwafel Dials

Lebois & Co, an old name revived by Tom van Wijlick, a Dutch native, has steadily built a collection of classically styled, vintage-character watches. Last year’s Heritage Small Seconds introduced a compact dress watch series inspired by the brand’s mid-century archives. Now, two new references are launching the Heritage Atelier collection: the Small Seconds Clous […]