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Hands On: Nouvelle Chronometrie Montre Ordinaire SJX Watches
Breguet attire May 19, 2026

Hands On: Nouvelle Chronometrie Montre Ordinaire

One of the most intriguing debuts in independent watchmaking this year is Nouvelle Chronometrie with its Montre Ordinaire. Despite the name, Nouvelle Chronometrie is actually Japanese, and the “ordinary” watch is a tourbillon chronometer inspired by 20th century observatory chronometer watches and dressed in formal Breguet attire. With its rigorously classical design, evident on both the front and back, the Nouvelle Chronometrie is distinctly Japanese at heart in how it careful reproduces and enhances traditional watchmaking – executed with a great deal of attention to detail. Moreover, the manufacturing of the watch is a combination of both old school manual methods and modern technology, reflecting a typically Japanese embrace of technology, not for cost efficiency, but for the sake of quality. Initial thoughts I first came across Nouvelle Chronometrie on Instagram. It was just images of the watch, with no information on the brand’s origins. Then I learnt Nouvelle Chronometrie was founded and led by Noritaka Sakurai, a longtime collector who pivoted to join the industry – which ironically left me a little sceptical. Though I have known Mr Sakurai for a long time and regard him highly as a collector, he was chief executive at Hajime Asaoka’s watchmaking outfit until 2020 – that employer was a red flag for me. Fortunately, Mr Sakurai has left that behind, and has now gone all in with Nouvelle Chronometrie, a project that deserves recognition and praise. Accor...

Hands-On With The New Cartier Santos-Dumont In Full Gold Or Platinum With A Bracelet Fratello
Cartier Santos-Dumont May 19, 2026

Hands-On With The New Cartier Santos-Dumont In Full Gold Or Platinum With A Bracelet

At Watches and Wonders, we see many watches, of course. It’s actually not the best place to see watches, though. During the “touch & try” sessions, watches are passed around quickly as everyone tries to take as many pictures as possible. Cartier is notoriously one of the most watch-heavy sessions, as the brand usually presents […] Visit Hands-On With The New Cartier Santos-Dumont In Full Gold Or Platinum With A Bracelet to read the full article.

First Look – The King Seiko Vanac Limited Edition HKF004 in Seiko Blue Dial Monochrome
Seiko Vanac Limited Edition HKF004 May 19, 2026

First Look – The King Seiko Vanac Limited Edition HKF004 in Seiko Blue Dial

King Seiko, the other higher-end arm of the Group, has had an interesting comeback run since Seiko revived the collection in 2020, bringing back one of its classic higher-end names from the 1960s. This family also introduced the Vanac sub-collection during the 1970s. These were some cool watches that were more colourful, faceted, and much-liked […]

First Look – Sino-French Brand Atelier Wen Refines its Core Collection with the Perception V3 Monochrome
Atelier Wen Refines May 19, 2026

First Look – Sino-French Brand Atelier Wen Refines its Core Collection with the Perception V3

In less than 10 years, Atelier Wen has built a rather impressive collection, merging refined watchmaking with Chinese culture. The Sino-French company founded by Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron quickly moved from accessible watches with a strong Chinese identity to something less caricatural, much deeper in substance, to the point of creating a full tantalum […]

First Look – The Maen Hudson 38 GMT MKII, A Compact Traveller’s Watch with Vintage Flair Monochrome
Maen May 18, 2026

First Look – The Maen Hudson 38 GMT MKII, A Compact Traveller’s Watch with Vintage Flair

Over the past few years, Stockholm-based brand Maen has delivered thoughtfully designed watches with strong selling points. Models such as the integrated-bracelet Manhattan Ultra-Thin and the recent Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin have shown the brand’s growing confidence beyond its early vintage-inspired sports watches. Still, collections like the Hudson remain central to Maen’s identity, offering compact proportions, […]

The Delugs Micro-Adjust CTS Deployant Clasp Is A Small Upgrade That Makes A Big Difference Fratello
May 18, 2026

The Delugs Micro-Adjust CTS Deployant Clasp Is A Small Upgrade That Makes A Big Difference

I reviewed some Delugs straps back in 2024, and since then, I’ve added a decent selection of the brand’s rubber CTS straps and sailcloth straps to my rotation. In fact, I recently bought a couple of sailcloth straps for some of the newer watches in my collection. So when Delugs kindly offered to send over […] Visit The Delugs Micro-Adjust CTS Deployant Clasp Is A Small Upgrade That Makes A Big Difference to read the full article.

First Look – The new Longines Legend Diver 59, The Return of the 42mm Icon Monochrome
Longines Legend Diver 59 May 18, 2026

First Look – The new Longines Legend Diver 59, The Return of the 42mm Icon

The Longines Legend Diver (LLD) is one of the important watches in the brand’s catalogue. First introduced in 1959, the original ref. 7042 defined the brand’s approach to underwater instruments: a bold 42mm EPSA compressor case, dual crowns, and an internal rotating bezel. It was a purposeful tool, but also one with a certain elegance, […]

Hamilton Gets Into Character For Disclosure Day Fratello
Hamilton Gets Into Character May 18, 2026

Hamilton Gets Into Character For Disclosure Day

It’s hard to believe, but we’re approaching summer blockbuster season in cinemas. Who better to rule the silver screens than the original hitmaker, Steven Spielberg? On June 12th, his latest movie, Disclosure Day, will debut. Two of the leading characters will don Hamilton watches. Let’s have a look at these two very different pieces. From […] Visit Hamilton Gets Into Character For Disclosure Day to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: A Diamond in the Rough? SJX Watches
Chanel s watch business into May 18, 2026

SJX Podcast: A Diamond in the Rough?

Tiffany & Co. is one of the only major jewellers without a significant watchmaking programme. Episode 41 of the SJX Podcast examines the brand’s past, present, and future under the leadership of Nicolas Beau, who is credited with building Chanel’s watch business into what it is today. When it comes to watches, Tiffany & Co. is potentially a diamond in the rough — it’s a uniquely American luxury brand with enviable cultural recognition. The brand also has a global boutique network giving it immediate access to all major markets, which could accelerate its trajectory with the right product mix. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Seiko Marks 145 Years with Arita Porcelain Presage SJX Watches
Seiko Marks 145 Years May 18, 2026

Seiko Marks 145 Years with Arita Porcelain Presage

As Seiko’s 145th anniversary celebrations unfold, the brand expands its value-oriented Presage Classic “Craftsmanship” collection with two new commemorative limited editions. The HCC007 features a gradient blue Arita porcelain dial in an appealing 39.6 mm size, while the 36 mm HCC004 answers the call for smaller dress watch options. Initial thoughts Seiko has been making incremental improvements to its Presage line of entry-level dress watches since the collection debuted in 2010. Almost since the beginning, Seiko has used the Presage as a vehicle to experiment with ways to make traditional craftsmanship accessible, starting with fired enamel dials in 2012 and Arita porcelain dials in 2019. Since then, the Presage has benefited from a movement upgrade, and now boasts a weekend-proof three-day power reserve. The 145th anniversary editions prove that Seiko hasn’t run out of ideas, and the HCC007 in particular brings an additional layer of artisanal individuality to the execution that is rarely seen at this price range — its gradient blue dial has echoes of the Credor Eichi II in ruri blue. The charming and compact 36 mm HCC004 offers a little something for everyone. Powered by the same cal. 6R51 as its porcelain-dialled sibling, it features an embossed dial with a silk-like texture — the latest in a long line of Seiko watches with fabric-patterned dials. Both models appear aimed at the enthusiast market, as neither features a date window. This gives each watch a ...

The Neo-Vintage Sweet Spot: Why The Seiko Marinemaster SBDX001 Still Makes Sense Today Fratello
Seiko Marinemaster SBDX001 Still Makes May 17, 2026

The Neo-Vintage Sweet Spot: Why The Seiko Marinemaster SBDX001 Still Makes Sense Today

There is a particular charm to watches that sit just beyond modernity yet remain too young to be vintage. In recent years, collectors have coined the term “neo-vintage” to define this liminal space, roughly spanning the mid-1990s through the 2000s. It’s a period defined not by nostalgia alone but also by a fascinating intersection of […] Visit The Neo-Vintage Sweet Spot: Why The Seiko Marinemaster SBDX001 Still Makes Sense Today to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Vs. Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In Titanium Fratello
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive May 17, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Vs. Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In Titanium

Grand Seiko surprised friend and foe at Watches and Wonders when the brand released a smaller, more accurate dive watch at a lower price than its predecessor. The Ushio 300 diver, naturally, was met with applause. So, for this week’s showdown, we thought we’d stack it up against a watch so popular that it is […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Vs. Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In Titanium to read the full article.

Introducing – The Calatrava-Inspired Horologically Unique HU-01 Finale Series, Smaller and with Diamond Dials Monochrome
Patek Philippe Calatrava 96 basically May 16, 2026

Introducing – The Calatrava-Inspired Horologically Unique HU-01 Finale Series, Smaller and with Diamond Dials

Like many microbrands, Singapore-based Horologically Unique was fueled by a passion for watches and the desire to create something personal, something that would first answer the own requirements of the creator. In this case, the idea was to offer a watch that respects as much as possible the Patek Philippe Calatrava 96, basically the blueprint […]

Review: the Venezianico Arenale Calendario Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko May 15, 2026

Review: the Venezianico Arenale Calendario

Venezianico makes a lot of watches. This is a fact that’s become unmistakably clear over these last few years as their footprint has expanded in the enthusiast community. Regardless of whether you know them for watches like this or watches like this, there’s a good chance they also make a watch that’s completely unlike anything you’ve already seen from them.  Making a huge variety of watches at a high volume can be a bit of a gamble in this industry. There’s a sense among many enthusiasts that exclusivity is something to be protected, and when a watch brand casts a very wide net, it can dilute their messaging. We had a great discussion along these lines concerning Grand Seiko in a recent podcast. Clearly there was a moment a few years ago when that brand was flooding the market with new stuff, and their identity was a little lost. “Analysis paralysis” is a term often used by consumers to describe the feeling of shopping a brand that has too much stuff to sift through.  The counter argument of course is right there in the Seiko family. No enthusiast would say that too many watches in the Prospex, Presage, and Seiko 5 lines, among others, is a bad thing. Between the many branches of the Seiko family tree, there are accessible options for everyone, and that’s historically been seen as a good thing for the community and the sign of a healthy brand appealing to a broad market.  What this really comes down to is whether a brand is positioning itself as luxury ...

Hands-On With The Briston Clubmaster Legend Diver Ocean Fratello
Ming ly ready May 15, 2026

Hands-On With The Briston Clubmaster Legend Diver Ocean

Listen up because today, we’re talking about another new brand on Fratello. Briston, a small French brand, was established in 2013, but it’s seemingly ready for the big stage. Frankly, after going hands-on with several of the company’s pieces at Time To Watches in Geneva, I think they’re worth a look. Happily, we start our […] Visit Hands-On With The Briston Clubmaster Legend Diver Ocean to read the full article.

Introducing – New Textures and Dial Colours for the Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba and Khaki Navy Scuba GMT Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba May 15, 2026

Introducing – New Textures and Dial Colours for the Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba and Khaki Navy Scuba GMT

When dive watches start to flood the watch scene, it’s a sure sign that summer is just around the corner. With this in mind, Hamilton updates its go-anywhere, do-anything 40mm Khaki Navy Scuba line with wave-patterned dials and new colours. For those venturing abroad, Hamilton also proposes three new editions of its pragmatic travel-oriented diver, […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The Rolex Yacht-Master II Fratello
Rolex Yacht-Master II Another Friday May 15, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The Rolex Yacht-Master II

Another Friday, another list. This week, we decided to dive into the world of regatta timers. Rolex’s big introduction this year during Watches and Wonders was the updated Yacht-Master II. In itself, the updated watch proved to be a huge improvement compared to the previous generation of The Crown’s regatta timer. In both usability and […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The Rolex Yacht-Master II to read the full article.

Audemars Piguet and Swatch send the watch world crazy, Cartier quietly opens a new space in Sydney, while Rolex drops a new doc instead of a watch Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet May 15, 2026

Audemars Piguet and Swatch send the watch world crazy, Cartier quietly opens a new space in Sydney, while Rolex drops a new doc instead of a watch

There’s nothing like a good Swatch release to turn the watch world upside down, and that’s exactly what we’ve seen this week. Fresh after our brilliant British Weekender in NYC, where watches were firmly on enthusiasts’ minds, Audemars Piguet and Swatch decided to bring watches into the forefront for everyone, announcing a new collaboration that everyone, … Continued

Hands-On With The Tudor Monarch — Are You Down With The New King? Fratello
Tudor Monarch — Are You May 15, 2026

Hands-On With The Tudor Monarch — Are You Down With The New King?

This year is a regal one indeed, as both Tudor and the Rolex Oyster case celebrate their 100th anniversary. For this grandiose occasion, Tudor presented a completely new model during Watches and Wonders 2026 to underline the significance of its century of existence. The Tudor Monarch is a hard-to-define watch, but when you look at […] Visit Hands-On With The Tudor Monarch — Are You Down With The New King? to read the full article.

Bringing Hands-On Watchmaking to Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 with DIY Watch Club Worn & Wound
May 14, 2026

Bringing Hands-On Watchmaking to Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 with DIY Watch Club

One of the most memorable additions to Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 wasn’t a new release, a panel discussion, or even a brand activation. It was the twist of tiny screwdrivers, movements clicking into place, and attendees experiencing the satisfaction of building a mechanical watch with their own hands. For the first time ever at a Windup Watch Fair, DIY Watch Club hosted live watchmaking workshops throughout the weekend, giving attendees the opportunity to assemble their own watches from the ground up right on-site at Fort Mason’s Gateway Pavilion. Led by DIY Watch Club founder Quinn Lai and his partner Rebecca Lai, the classes quickly became one of the Fair’s most talked-about experiences, drawing everyone from seasoned enthusiasts curious about the mechanics behind their collections to total newcomers looking for a deeper connection to watchmaking. Each workshop guided participants step-by-step through the process of assembling a functioning mechanical watch, including casing the movement, setting the hands, and completing the final assembly. Participants each built one of DIY’s White Dial Stainless Steel GMT, giving them not only a hands-on introduction to watchmaking, but also a genuinely wearable travel-ready mechanical watch to take home at the end of the session. While some attendees arrived slightly intimidated by the process, the atmosphere in the workshop area quickly became collaborative, energetic, and surprisingly relaxed as participants reali...

Seiko Introduces new Astrons, Including a Limited Edition, for their 145th Anniversary Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces new Astrons Including May 14, 2026

Seiko Introduces new Astrons, Including a Limited Edition, for their 145th Anniversary

This year marks the 145th anniversary of Seiko, and while 145 isn’t exactly the most notable round number anniversary, it’s still, well, a very long time. And as we’ve mentioned countless times in these pages, the watch industry simply doesn’t let an anniversary year go to waste. Seiko has just announced a new collection of watches in the Astron line to mark the occasion, because of course it makes a lot of sense to commemorate longevity and a proud history with the most modern contemporary line in the catalog. Right?  Kidding aside, the Astron holds a special place in the Seiko collection for a few reasons. It was the name of the brand’s very first quartz watch, famously introduced on Christmas Day in 1969. It was a watch, and a technology, that not only changed the company, but the watch industry altogether. It ushered in the Quartz Crisis across most of the watchmaking world, except of course in Japan, which rose to a level of prominence in watchmaking as a result of quartz.  Today, the Astron is special as it is reserved for the most newfangled Seiko technology available, very much in keeping with the tradition inherent in its name. That means, primarily, tech forward GPS enabled timekeeping, as well as the use of Seiko’s solar technology. Astron watches typically inhabit a very contemporary design language, which tends toward sporty, angular, and often oversized.  The anniversary watch introduced this week is the new GPS Solar Dual Time Chronograph, ref...

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Paul Pessagno Worn & Wound
May 14, 2026

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Paul Pessagno

After a bit of a break, 3 for $5k is back! The reader edition of this series has always been a favorite, as it allows Worn & Wound’s audience to chime in on the watches they own, or would buy, with a hypothetical $5,000 budget. The fun with these is always in the approach, and today we have a unique spin from reader Paul Pessagno. His Instagram handle is @bigwristwatchguy, which should give you an idea of his perspective on collecting. With a nearly 9 inch wrist, Paul sought out watches for this exercise that look appropriate on a big wrist, but still represent a balanced collecting philosophy.  Let us know what you think of Paul’s picks in the comments below, and stay tuned for future editions of The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition. The modern watch industry has a clear darling right now, the 38mm to 40mm “sweet spot.” Brands are downsizing across the board, digging into their archives, and championing historically accurate, compact proportions. But having an 8.85 inch wrist fundamentally changes how a timepiece wears. When you fall outside the industry average, those celebrated mid-century dimensions can easily end up looking less like a serious horological instrument and more like a vintage toy.   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Paul Pessagno (@bigwristwatchguy) Building a versatile three watch rotation presents a unique challenge for the larger wristed collector. A great collection isn’t just about stubbornly picking the bi...

Hands-On With The Stylish And Practical Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Moon Phase Fratello
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 5396R-016 Annual May 14, 2026

Hands-On With The Stylish And Practical Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Moon Phase

In 1996, Patek Philippe launched a watch to bridge the gap between its dress watches and perpetual calendars. The brand needed more sales; the Nautilus was not a hype watch yet, so what did Patek do? It launched a classic calendar watch that looked like a perpetual calendar, but it actually was a watch with […] Visit Hands-On With The Stylish And Practical Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Moon Phase to read the full article.

First Look – The New Seiko Presage 145th Anniversary Limited Editions HCC007 and HCC004 Monochrome
Seiko Presage 145th Anniversary Limited May 14, 2026

First Look – The New Seiko Presage 145th Anniversary Limited Editions HCC007 and HCC004

Over the past decade, the Presage collection has become the most expressive showcase for Seiko’s artisanal side. Beyond the sporty world of Prospex, Presage has steadily explored traditional Japanese crafts, integrating enamel, Urushi lacquer, Shippo enamel and Arita porcelain into accessible mechanical watches. In 2026, Seiko celebrates its 145th anniversary, and following the four-piece anniversary […]