23,138 articles · 2,370 videos found · page 22 of 851
Revolution
In 2022, when De Bethune relaunched their incredible DB25 Perpetual Calendar in an all-new case size of 40mm, collectors sat up and took notice as it made an already thoughtfully-designed grand complication watch even more well-proportioned for the wrist. Wei and Jeremiah discuss the genesis of this sea change in the DB25 Perpetual Calendar’s case […]
Revolution
Wei visits De Bethune Co-founder and Master Watchmaker Denis Flageollet’s private atelier, a place where he finds solitude to seek inspiration and conduct research for the brand’s next concept watch. Denis is probably the only independent watchmaker to have his own metal forge where he can experiment on different materials and craft his own watch […]
Worn & Wound
One year ago we showed you the delightful De Rijke Miffy Moonphase, a playful take on De Rijke’s distinctive design language honoring the iconic Dutch cartoon character created by Dick Bruna, Miffy. We remarked then about the watch’s universal appeal beyond the character thanks to the exquisite execution of the character etched into a brass plate alongside the moonphase display. This year, De Rijke returns to the concept with three new dial colors that once again breathe new life into Bruna’s uniquely Dutch creation. The Miffy character has been incorporated into the design of the moonphase disc rotating underneath the dial, which is visible through an oversized aperture that dominates the top half of the dial. The character, which is a bunny, appears within the moon itself, with a slew of stars trailing. The entire design has been laser etched out of brass, polished and black rhodium plated. The recesses are then filled with different colors of lume, creating not only a vibrant illustration, but also an impressive sight in the dark. We’ve talked about our feelings on cartoon characters within the confines of watches before in this editorial, and sadly I neglected to mention the original De Rijke x Miffy as an example that works. According to Laurens de Rijke, the brand’s founder, it’s a reminder that we needn’t always take ourselves too seriously, explaining: “ For me though, it makes a lot of sense, the world of watches is one that is often very serious...
Deployant
De Bethune expands their DB 27 Titan Hawk lineup with a new watch influenced by motorsports, and the Lotus F1 team's John Player Special colourway.
Quill & Pad
In the newly introduced Breguet Reine de Naples References 9835 and 9838, the minute hand has become a sporty, elegant declaration of love. These intriguing hands feature a unique mechanism that traces the minute track around the edge of the oval dial in a singular way, at times looking like a heart.
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Quill & Pad
When De Bethune released the new DB25s Perpetual Calendar at Geneva Watch Days 2022, the main talking point was just how much the model had shrunk from its previous iterations to become a more perfect proportion. And like any good diet consultation, it was the result of careful and deliberate attention paid to the watch as a whole and how components worked with each other.
SJX Watches
While much of the buzz around Patek Philippe’s recent launches has been centred on the Nautilus ref. 5811/1G in white gold, the year has been mostly about other than the Nautilus and Aquanaut. Amongst the most notable new launches for 2022 is the World Time Flyback Chronograph ref. 5935A-001. Continuing with Patek Philippe’s development of steel watches beyond its traditional sports models, the ref. 5935A is a striking new take on a model that made its debut in 2016. Previously available only in precious metals (namely white gold or platinum), the ref. 5935A is the first of the model in stainless steel – and one of the brand’s few complicated watches in the metal. And the ref. 5935A is larger in diameter than its predecessor, but its most eye-catching feature is the dial in “rose-gilt opaline” (or “salmon” if you wish). Initial thoughts A World Time in steel is a big deal because the world time is arguably an iconic watch for Patek Philippe. Select vintage examples are amongst the handful of Patek Philippe references that can sell for high-seven or even eight figures. Granted the ref. 5935A adds a chronograph into the mix, but it is still modern take on a signature complication. The ref. 5935A retains the familiar Louis Cottier-type world time display that’s almost synonymous with Patek Philippe, but with contemporary materials and colours. And at 41 mm it is also larger than usual for a Patek Philippe complication, giving it something of a sporty feel...
SJX Watches
Going on the block at Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction is the Patek Philippe ref. 5004J “Michael Ovitz”. It’s lot 2520 and one of the watches from The Triazza Collection, an impressive accumulation of watches owned by a prominent Hong Kong businessman. The collection is heavy on Patek Philippe. Amongst the other timepieces in the collection is the Patek Philippe tourbillon pocket watch that won first prize at the Geneva Observatory in 1931 (which is also being offered in the same auction) and the Patek Philippe ref. 2499 that once belonged to Eric Clapton (but is not for sale, yet). “MSO” – Michael Steven Ovitz The “MSO” initials on this ref. 5004J instantly reveal it was one of the many, I would two dozen at least, special-order watches that Patek Philippe made for Michael Ovitz starting in 2011. Often described as a “super agent”, Mr Ovitz cofounded Creative Artists Agency (CAA), once the dominant talent agency in Hollywood. After a short-lived spell at Disney, he’s now known for his impressive art collection, some of which is on show in his equally impressive home in California. Though the reason behind Patek Philippe’s accommodation of Mr Ovitz is not publicly known, industry lore has it that the watches were an expression of gratitude by the Sterns after Mr Ovitz assisted them in a significant way. Mr Ovitz has only commented on these watches publicly once, in a 2021 article in Robb Report: “It was the first time Ovitz, who has be...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe has introduced two variants of its classic paired complication: the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5271/11P and Ref. 5271/12P are set with blue sapphires and rubies respectively, with each having a graduated finish dial in a matching colour. Both new references retain the look and feel of the ref. 5270 but certainly pack a punch with their flamboyant jewelled cases. The first serially-produced gem-set variants of the reference in 11 years, the new pair joins the existing diamond-set ref. 5271P as the bling versions of Patek Philippe’s archetypal complication. Initial thoughts Much of the excitement over new releases from Patek Philippe tend to be centred on its sports watches nowadays but that’s not all that the brand has been doing. At Watches & Wonders in March, the brand launched a new version of the longstanding ref. 5270 that featured a smoked green dial that was widely applauded (no doubt in part due to the current popularity of the colour). But the recent launches left me wondering, what else can Patek Philippe do to up its game beyond its mastery of complications? Well, now we have an answer. In terms of the design, the new ref. 5271s retain the classic layout and distinctive feel of the perpetual calendar chronographs that the brand is known for, but with a few adjustments to the dial that give it a more contemporary feel. And then the coloured gemstones transform a watch that is ordinarily sedate into something over the top. While gem-se...
SJX Watches
De Bethune’s latest invention aims to customise the regulation of a mechanical watch to suit the individual owner. Dubbed the Sensoriel Chronometry Project, it takes the form of a electronic wrist instrument that measures the wearer’s activities and environmental conditions over a two week period – gathering two million data points per hour according to the brand. With this voluminous quantity of data, De Bethune will then regulate a DB28GS Grand Bleu sports watch specifically for the particular owner, optimising timekeeping based on the wearer’s activities. [Updated to include response from Denis Flageollet.] Initial thoughts On paper the Sensoriel is interesting and impressive, but on reflection it raises several questions. For one, the two million data points recorded per hour – for a two-week period – results in an extraordinary amount of information on the wearer’s activities. Can any mechanical watch be regulated to a fine enough resolution that makes even a fraction of that data useful? My knowledge of watchmaking is certainly inexpert but I am sceptical. Mr Flageollet points out De Bethune utilises an algorithm to process the data and sieve out the “elements specific to the wearer, in a way to bring out a specific chronometric DNA for each wearer”, allowing the watch to be regulated according to a smaller number of data points. The second salient point is more philosophical. Historically the pursuit of chronometry meant good timekeeping regardless...
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Quill & Pad
As most folks who follow Patek Philippe are aware, the brand has long been in the habit of making unique watches for special customers, including in recent times entertainment luminaries such as Eric Clapton and Michael Ovitz. It was not until 2015, however, that Patek Philippe publicly issued a number of small editions of previously discontinued references, each in previously unmade metal/dial combinations. This Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013 is one of those ultra-rare birds. And GaryG wonders if it might bring yellow gold back into fashion single-handedly.
Deployant
Patek Philippe introduces the new Nautilus Ref. 5811/1G in white gold, replacing the now-discontinued Ref. 5711 that had been in production since 2006.
Time+Tide
The Omega De Ville Prestige line has been a bit of a hidden gem in the watchmaker’s offering, hiding in an already underappreciated collection. Closing in on 20 years since their first introduction, Omega is introducing a slew of new De Ville Prestige models for its third generation update. All mechanical models have been upgraded … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega De Ville Prestige range gets upgraded with a slew of new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The combination of split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar has been a mainstay in Patek Philippe’s catalogue ever since the ref. 5004, but the brand’s latest take on the concept is unorthodox. The Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5373P-001 is described by Patek Philippe as designed for “left handers” and has its crown and pushers on the left side of the case. Essentially an inverted version of the ref. 5372P that’s now discontinued, the ref. 5373P is the first “destro” timepiece among the brand’s regular production offerings, but the movement is classic Patek Philippe. Like the earlier versions of the model, the ref. 5373P is powered by the CHR 27-525 PS Q, a gorgeous, refined, and extremely slim movement that’s amongst the thinnest split-seconds chronographs ever made. Initial thoughts The ref. 5373P is paradoxical. It’s not majorly different from its predecessor, in fact it’s just a rotated case and new dial, but the watch looks and feels entirely different from the ref. 5372P. The left-handed case sets it apart, as does the high-contrast livery. The black-and-red colour scheme seems mismatched to the elegant form of the watch – the case and movement are both impressively slim – but I can imagine this will have a strong appeal for someone seeking something different yet fundamentally classic Patek Philippe high horology. This clearly stands out in the catalogue, offering an alternative that is recognisably di...
Deployant
The Reine de Naples 8918 is one of the Maison’s iconic pieces.This novelty introduces two new white gold cased models - with enamel dial and MOP dial.
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Deployant
Patek Philippe unveils the World Time Ref. 5231G in white gold, featuring a cloisonné enamel dial depicting a map of South East Asia and Oceania.
Deployant
Patek Philippe unveils a new variation on its current chronograph watch, the Ref. 5172G-010 in white gold with rose-gilded dial.
Deployant
Patek Philippe introduces its first ever wristwatch combining the annual calendar and travel time complications, the Ref. 5326G.
Deployant
Czapek releases two new models for its Quai de Bergues lineup with enamel guilloché dials in a deep emerald green and a iridescent marine blue.
Deployant
Patek Philippe introduces its latest perpetual calendar chronograph: the Ref. 5270P-014 with gradated green dial. We bring you the details and our thoughts.
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Revolution
In Part 2 of our inside look at De Bethune, Wei traces the manufacture’s history of balance wheel development with founder and master watchmaker, Denis Flageollet. Very few watchmakers have been as singularly focused like Denis has; his being a 20-year relentless pursuit of chronometric performance of the most important component of a wristwatch, the […]
Deployant
De Bethune enhances their spectacular DB25 Starry Varius lineup with a 5 piece a year limited edition rendition in a magnificent meteorite dial.
Quill & Pad
Marc Newson‘s original Hourglass was one of Joshua Munchow's favorite objects of the last decade. And now it’s back and as good as ever, only this time the collaboration is with independent boutique brand De Bethune because it is these artisans who possess the unique ability and knowledge to create the color necessary for the new blued nanoballs inside the shaped, tempered glass.
Quill & Pad
How much does a Patek Philippe Nautilus cost? How will Nautilus prices evolve? Answering these questions, as relevant as they are, has become extremely difficult following the bubble formed in the luxury men’s watch market. This article analyzes the price history of 31 Patek Philippe Nautilus models, revealing the models that have gained an absolute value, the most dramatic relative increases, and the influence of case and bracelet material.
Quill & Pad
De Bethune’s watches can be equally as technical and eyebrow-raising on the outside as they are on the inside. Nonetheless, Elizabeth Doerr is still surprised every single time that she catches a glimpse of one of the Kind of Blue beauties: the depth, shimmer, and shine of this particular color is mesmerizing. And surely not only to her. Find out how she felt wearing one of these for a while!
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