902 articles · 2 videos found · page 22 of 31
Monochrome
Arnold & Son, the brand founded in honour of the famous 18th-century English watchmaker John Arnold, translates his historical legacy into high-end Swiss watches powered by in-house movements – about 20 to date. Arnold & Son’s HM line is the brand’s more dress-oriented collection and is also powered by a powerful, ultra-thin, in-house calibre. A […]
Monochrome
Not too long ago, last February in fact, I had the opportunity to get my hands on a series of Miyota automatic movements, of which I disassembled the ubiquitous Calibre 9015. My prime goal was to learn more about its construction and simply find out how it looks when you take it apart. And as […]
Monochrome
Christiaan van der Klaauw (founded in 1974 in the Netherlands) has dedicated itself almost exclusively to astronomical complications, creating wristwatches that display celestial phenomena with remarkable mechanical ingenuity. From planetariums to highly accurate moon phases, the brand turns astronomy into wearable mechanical art. Following the introduction of its new in-house CKM-01 calibre in 2024, this […]
SJX Watches
The Girard-Perregaux (GP) Laureato Fifty collection adds four new references in crowd-pleasing configurations. The original 39 mm size is joined by a compact 36 mm option, available with our without diamonds, while a range of expensively made dials are on offer from solid 18k rose gold to deep blue flinqué enamel. The first four permanent members of the Laureato Fifty collection are powered by the brand’s latest automatic calibre, the GP4800, which illustrates GP’s capabilities as a manufacture. Initial thoughts Last year’s launch of the Laureato Fifty felt promising, but it was clearly just an opening act. GP is a brand intent on resurgence, and the Laureato Fifty represents an important part of the brand’s future. In this context, the four new Laureato Fifty references — in 2 sizes and 3 popular colourways — feel somewhat inevitable, though the high level of execution is anything but. Under the leadership of Marc Michel-Amadry GP seems to be building momentum in the right way — by emphasising what makes the brand unique. Specifically, its design icons like the Laureato and Three Gold Bridges, and its capabilities as a manufacture. In a few short months, the brand has delivered in each of these categories. The Laureato was one of the original luxury sports watches with an integrated bracelet, and helped establish the now-familiar format. Today, however, the field is crowded, a fact that invites comparison. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak comes to mind first,...
Monochrome
One of the pleasant surprises of 2025 and a game-changer for the very young, Paris-based independent brand, the Trilobe Trente-Deux entered the competitive integrated-bracelet sports watch segment. More importantly, however, it debuted the Calibre X-Nihilo, Trilobe’s first in-house movement, developed, produced, and assembled in Paris. Less than a year later, Trilobe expanded the collection with […]
SJX Watches
A hundred years after Marilyn Monroe’s birth, Blancpain is marking the occasion with the Ladybird Tribute Marilyn, seven watches modelled on a vintage Blancpain wristwatch once owned by Monroe herself. Rectangular in form and set with diamonds, the Ladybird Tribute is typical of 1940s style, but the movement inside is surprising. The cal. 510 inside is a tiny movement by modern standards, but is nonetheless high-spec. The calibre manages a respectable 50-hour power reserve and sophisticated, skeletonised construction, underlining the high quality mechanics typical of Blancpain. Initial thoughts We don’t normally feature such watches but the cal. 510 is worth a pointing out, even if it’s not a brand-new movement. Blancpain’s technical know-how was on full display with last year’s outsized Grande Double Sonnerie, but the cal. 510 proves the brand can still do a lot in a very small space. Most tiny ladies’ watches contain pedestrian movements, so the cal. 510 stands out. To start with, it’s a form movement conceived to fit the case. And while small, the movement incorporates a variety of notable features, including a free-sprung balance, longish power reserve, and appealing finishing. Notably, it is much more sophisticated than newer form movements from competing brands (with more expensive watches). The watch itself is retro, which is unsurprising given it’s a remake of Monroe’s original. While it might seem a little old fashioned, this will do well as a co...
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. expands its selection of chronographs with the Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date, adding convenient complications to the impressive chronograph calibre found in the Streamliner collection. Despite the presence of a chronograph and a second time zone display, the Endeavour Flyback could easily pass for a time-only watch at a glance thanks to its central minutes counter and discreet dual-time disc. Initial thoughts The central-minutes chronograph is an inherently appealing format. Not only does it reduce dial clutter by eliminating a sub-dial, but it improves legibility by allowing the elapsed minutes to be read on the same 60-minute scale the eye is accustomed to from reading the time. I’m also a fan of the AgenGraphe platform that underpins the HMC 730 movement. The movement architecture — which has now been around for almost a decade — reveals fresh thinking about how a horizontal clutch can work, and the visual layout is appropriately dynamic for a high-end watch with plenty of visible springs and levers, many of which are pleasingly thin in form. All that is to say the Endeavour Flyback has a lot going for it even before considering Moser’s minimalist aesthetic choices. As we’ve come to expect from the brand, the dial is sterile — lacking a brand logo or wordmark — and there’s a gradient fumé finish on the central disc that indicates the second time zone. These details are enough to mark the watch as a Moser product, which sp...
Fratello
Almost two years ago, Unimatic surprised us with its Toolwatch series, consisting of four stainless steel quartz models added to the Italian brand’s permanent lineup. Two of them are variants of the Modello Uno, while the other two are Modello Quattro models. Back then, I had a chance to try out the Modello Quattro UT4-GMT, […] Visit Comparing The New Titanium Unimatic Modello Quattro UT4-U-TI-GMT To The Stainless Steel UT4-GMT to read the full article.
SJX Watches
For much of the past quarter-century, Zenith has built its brand on the back of the El Primero — a fast-beating chronograph calibre that debuted in 1969. But last year — for its 160th anniversary — the brand revived the time-only calibre 135 – a legendary competition calibre originally developed in the late 1940s. The reborn movement debuted within a new collection — the GFJ — named after founder Georges Favre-Jacot. To better understand what lies behind the relaunch of the cal. 135, we talked to Romain Marietta, Chief Product Officer at Zenith. David Serra, Technical Director of Movement Development, provided additional production insights. As Mr Marietta explains, the relaunch of the cal. 135 opens a new chapter for Zenith — more exclusive and more artisanal, featuring precious materials, elevated finishing and a classical aesthetic inspired by the designs of the 1950s. In short, closer to the independent watchmakers’ approach and to their audience. And this is only the beginning — the Le Locle-based brand has plans to further develop both the calibre and the collection. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Yannick Nardin (YN): Let’s start at the beginning: what makes cal. 135 so special? Romain Marietta (RM): For context, it was produced from 1949 until 1962. At the time, the pursuit of precision had a real genuine meaning. Watchmakers measured their strength, stature and reputation through the prizes they won. This movement was created f...
SJX Watches
Seiko is marking its 145th anniversary by continuing to push the envelope for high-end quartz. The Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph is a series of four new references featuring a new multi-function quartz calibre, a streamlined case, and a push-button interchangeable strap system compatible with both the standard titanium bracelet and a range of silicone straps. Initial thoughts Since 1969, Seiko has been at the forefront of quartz technology, and since 2012 the brand has commercialised a range of GPS-synced solar-powered quartz watches under the Astron banner — named in honour of the groundbreaking 1969 original. The contemporary Astron models have taken quartz timekeeping about as far as it can go. Left on it’s own, it’s not the most accurate quartz watch, but the satellite link keeps the time in sync with network time and automatically adjusts to local time when travelling. Reference HAB002. Given the amount of technology packed inside — including a solar power unit — the Astron has always been a big watch. At 43.4 mm, the new Dual-Time Chronograph is not a small watch, but at just 12.4 mm thick it’s about 1 mm thinner than its predecessor, which is a welcome improvement. The bigger news, however, is outside the case: a new interchangeable strap and bracelet system. Bracelets have long been an achilles heel for both Seiko and Grand Seiko. The latter made big strides this year with a new bracelet for the Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver, and now Seiko ...
SJX Watches
Recently revived Genevan haute horlogerie brand Niton jumps into the jumping hours market with the Prima — one of the more refined high-end examples of the industry’s latest favourite complication. It features a bespoke, shaped calibre that proudly carries the Poinçon de Genève — true to its inspiration — and is packed with creative choices and features. Initial thoughts Not long ago it seemed like 2025 would go down as the year of the jump hour, but the trend was evidently just getting started. The Niton Prima exemplifies this ongoing trend with surprising elegance and historical fidelity. As a rule of thumb, I view revival brands with a degree of scepticism; I would prefer people make a name for themselves rather than buying one. However, the Niton Prima shows a clear understanding of — and passion for — the source material, so I am satisfied this is not a mere cash-grab. It doesn’t hurt that the watch is excellent inside and out, and while expensive in absolute terms, it is fairly priced for what you get. The movement deserves special mention as the source of much of the appeal, being a true shaped movement — a very handsome one at that — and a competent timekeeper. It is finely finished with a plethora of interesting and clever features, including hidden screws for joining the bridges and mainplate, a small seconds hand that stops itself at 60 after the crown is pulled, and a sonnerie au passage to enhance the sound of the jump hour. Another point i...
SJX Watches
Daniel Roth’s latest addition to its time-only portfolio is the Extra Plat Platinum. A familiar face in a new colourway, the Extra Plat offers the Tourbillon Platinum‘s stealthy look in a more accessible two-hand format. Powered by the DR002 in-house calibre developed by Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), this regular production model brings a decidedly subtle look to the brand’s simple dress watch. Initial thoughts It’s been interesting to observe Louis Vuitton’s confident foray into haute horlogerie through the revival of Daniel Roth. Despite the corporate structure, astute collectors continue to speak of Daniel Roth in the same breath as other leading independent watchmakers. To the independent-collecting cognoscenti, the platinum Extra Plat should prove a compelling option – rooted in the early history of the independent watchmaking movement but built to meet contemporary expectations. Following Daniel Roth’s launch of the Tourbillon Souscription, the time-only, manually wound Extra Plat — “extra flat” for non-French speakers — debuted in an 18k yellow gold souscription edition followed closely by regular production models in rose gold, with and without skeletonisation. The new platinum Extra Plat rounds out the set. Combined with the matching dial with contrasting finishes, it creates a rather stealthy profile for this otherwise opulently finished dress watch. Extra Plat-inum The platinum double-ellipse case shares the wrist-friendly d...
SJX Watches
Among the independent brands officially exhibiting at Watches & Wonders, Ressence was a standout. The design-forward Belgian independent took a major step forward with the Type 11, powered by the brand’s first proprietary calibre, the RW-01. The Type 11 is tangibly appealing and priced well considering both its unique design and technical content. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the Type 11 and its RW-01 movement, I had the same feeling as when Urwerk launched the EMC back in 2013. At the time, the EMC felt like the start of a new era for a brand that had, up to that point, primarily put its proprietary modules atop widely available off-the-shelf calibres. The EMC proved Urwerk was willing to rethink the movement in its entirety to realise a specific vision. The RW-01 reveals Ressence is moving in that same direction. After 15 years of adapting its Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) modules to ETA-derived calibres, the brand has taken the next step in its development and partnered with an adept supplier to construct a proprietary movement uniquely suited to its signature design. The new calibre was engineered with Ressence’s ROCS module in mind. The movement layout appears purpose-built for winding and setting via the case back, lacking an ordinary stem, and dual serially coupled mainspring barrels extend the power reserve to 60 hours — quite long considering the mass of the ROCS module. While I would have been delighted to see a free-sprung balance, I...
Monochrome
For many people, 1969 is the year of the Apollo 11 Moon landing, Woodstock and the final live performance of The Beatles on a London rooftop. However, for watch enthusiasts, 1969 is the year Zenith unveiled the El Primero, the world’s first automatic, integrated chronograph calibre – and a high-frequency one to boot. Among the […]
Monochrome
When it was unveiled in 2014, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Calibre 362 stunned the horological world as the slimmest automatic minute repeater with a tourbillon regulator. For 2026, Jaeger revisits its high-complication masterpiece with the new Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Thin Minute Repeater, a ten-piece limited edition with an openworked dial reaffirming the Maison’s dominance in chiming mechanisms, […]
Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre revisits one of its most important contemporary tourbillon movements with the new Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date. While the underlying Calibre 978 is familiar to collectors, the latest iteration restructures the movement’s architecture. Featuring a partially openworked dial, the tourbillon, signature jumping date mechanism, and 24-hour display come to the fore. Paying homage […]
Monochrome
Last year, Roger Dubuis released a nostalgic watch that paid homage to Mr Dubuis, the brand’s talented watchmaker and founder. Using a restored and remanufactured RD72 bi-retrograde perpetual calendar module (launched in 1999) combined with the automatic RD14 base calibre, the Hommage La Placide was presented in a compact and classically styled 38mm gold case, […]
Monochrome
When Zenith unveiled the Chronomaster Sport in 2021, the message was clear: the El Primero was entering a new, sportier chapter rather than living off 1969 nostalgia. Exploiting the full potential of the calibre 3600’s 5Hz frequency, the 1/10th-of-a-second readings put the Chronomaster Sport luxury sports watch in a class of its own. The latest […]
Monochrome
Any watch bearing “Hybris” in its name represents the pinnacle of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mechanics and craftsmanship. Representing the third pillar of the elite Hybris family, the new Inventiva series is dedicated to single, groundbreaking complications. The first in line is the extraordinary Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon à Stratosphère Calibre 178. Building on two decades of multi-axis […]
Monochrome
Last year was a watershed moment for Grand Seiko with its announcement of the world’s “most accurate mainspring-driven movement”. Crafted in the Shinshu Watch Studio, the brand’s groundbreaking Calibre 9RB2 – with an annual deviation of only ±20 seconds – debuted in Evolution 9 cases. True to Japanese reverence for nature and Grand Seiko’s talent […]
SJX Watches
Following a belter of an anniversary year during which the brand launched, among other things, the world’s most complicated wristwatch and a quarter-ton astronomical clock, Vacheron Constantin (VC) kicks off Watches & Wonders with something more low-profile, both literally and figuratively - the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin. While small in stature at just 7.35 mm thick, it’s what’s inside the counts - namely, an all-new micro-rotor calibre with 80 hours of power reserve and seemingly limitless potential. Initial thoughts The new Overseas Ultra-Thin is little different from the model that preceded it, though the ref. 2000V remained rare enough throughout its production run that the format still feels fresh. It also helps that despite the visual similarity, the ref. 2500V is a completely new watch inside and out, catapulting a model that arguably lagged behind its one obvious competitor into instant parity. The ref. 2500V is best understood from the inside out. Audemars Piguet replaced the well-loved historical cal. 2121 with its more modern cal. 7121 in 2022, and now it’s VC’s turn, being the last of the big three purveyors of mass-market fine watchmaking to replace its aging Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920-based movements with an in-house alternative. The reluctance to replace this venerable platform is understandable. What VC calls the cal. 1120 is one of the last movements of its generation still in use, and carries a historical weight missing from many moder...
SJX Watches
Sure to be among the most talked-about releases of Watches & Wonders, TAG Heuer has just unveiled the Monaco Evergraph. The openworked Monaco marks the debut of the calibre TH-80, one of the most advanced chronograph movements on the market. The Evergraph’s movement is notable for several reasons, but the most surprising is the use of an innovative compliant structure to simplify the chronograph mechanisms. Initial thoughts Beginning with the relaunch of the TH-Carbonspring last year, TAG Heuer has been on something of a road to redemption. Not long ago it seemed like the brand’s brightest days might be behind it, but the Evergraph provides further evidence that TAG Heuer has been retooling to become a new leader in technical innovation. The famous Breitling-Heuer-Buren Calibre 11 - one of the first automatic chronograph movements to hit the market back in 1969 - debuted in a Monaco, and so it’s fitting that the new TH-80 movement is first glimpsed through the transparent dial of the Monaco Evergraph. In more ways than one, the Evergraph pays proper hommage to original Heuer Monaco while remaining decidedly future-oriented. It is also great to see the TH-Carbonspring literally front and centre on the dial side, proof that TAG Heuer is finally delivering on the promise of carbon hairspring industrialisation. Even before digressing into the distinctive mechanics of the new cal. TH80-00, any chronograph aficionado will greatly appreciate the particular crown and...
Monochrome
Founded in 1973 in Morteau, French brand Pequignet’s watchmaking history takes an interesting turn in the 2000s with the creation of an integrated manufacture and the release of the Calibre Royal, the brand’s first in-house movement, in 2011. Following a period of fluctuating fortunes, Pequignet was acquired by Enowe in 2021 and hasn’t looked back since. […]
Monochrome
Zeitwinkel, founded in 2006, has quietly built a solid reputation among collectors in just two decades with its in-house movements and distinctive use of German silver. One of its defining and, by now, one of the most popular pieces, the 273° Saphir Fumé, introduced in 2016, combined a smoked sapphire dial with the automatic calibre […]
SJX Watches
Having debuted its first proprietary movement inside the Caballero last year, Singer Reimagined is building on the calibre by adding a second time zone. The DualTrack is powered by the same cleverly constructed movement, a manual wind with an impressive six day power reserve, but gains a 24-hour ring for a GMT function. The watch adopts the cushion-shaped case that’s the brand signature, while the dial similarly preserve the aesthetic found on the brand’s trademark central chronographs, but with a 24-hour ring around the dial. Because the second time zone is an add-on over the calibre, the 24-scale ring is independently adjustable, rather than the local hour hand, making this “caller” GMT rather than a true “traveller” GMT. Initial thoughts I like the Singer aesthetic so this design is appealing, and it implements the dual time zone function logically and legibly. The in-house movement with a long power reserve is also a plus, especially since it has a novel four-barrel construction. The only downside here is the “caller” type second time zone function. A “true” GMT with an independent local hour hand, as found on the Rolex GMT-Master II, is the most convenient format, since it requires fewest steps when setting the time while travelling, but this requires a built-from-the-ground-up calibre. All things considered, that can be forgiven since the DualTrack is an attractive proposition overall. Like last year’s Caballero, the DualTrack is a useful watch ...
Monochrome
Czapek launched the Antarctique collection in 2020 as its first luxury sports watch built around the in-house calibre SXH5, marking a major step in the brand’s modern revival. Striking a refined balance between luxury and everyday wearability, Czapek unveils titanium interpretations of three emblematic references: Dark Sector, Révélation and the Tourbillon. Lighter, stronger and more […]
Monochrome
Arnold & Son’s UTTE – Ultra Thin Tourbillon Escapement – debuted at Baselworld 2013, powered by the ultra-thin 2.97mm hand-wound calibre A&S;8200. Recognised as the world’s thinnest tourbillon wristwatch, the title was stolen from Arnold & Son just one year later with Bulgari’s 1.95mm Octo Finissimo Tourbillon. Still remarkably thin, Arnold & Son’s Ultrathin Tourbillon […]
WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive U.F.A has an astonishing ±20 seconds per year accuracy. Wrapped in a new slimmer Evolution 9 case and finished with a dial inspired by winter in Shinshu, it’s a masterclass in subtle innovation and timeless elegance. What We Love The Calibre 9RB2 delivers an incredible +/- 20 seconds per year, redefining what is possible from a mainspring-powered mechanical movement The new 37mm case size makes the timepiece highly wearable for a wide range of wrist sizes. The beautifully textured dial captures Grand Seiko’s unique blend of craftsmanship and storytelling. What We Don’t While very comfortable, the standard three-link bracelet feels a little too plain for a release of this calibre. For a groundbreaking caliber, the caseback view feels a little subdued. For such a significant release, the design feels a little too in line with previous Evolution 9 models. Overall Rating: 9.25 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 This article was originally published as Hands On With The New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Grand Seiko was first established in 1960 as a sister brand to Seiko, created to combat the Swiss watchmakers and their high-end luxury timepieces. While Seiko made affordable everyday timepieces, It was Grand Seiko’s role to create unique, innovative pieces that would cater to the luxury and high-end watchmaking market. Among the many different innovations and stunning dial aesthetics, on...
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaker Ressence unveils the Type 11, powered by a proprietary movement for the first time. The trailblazer of oil-filled mechanical modules, Ressence has so far relied on third-party base movements to power its eccentric creations. The Belgium-based watchmaker has finally taken the next step and developed its own calibre, dubbed the Ressence-Werk RW-01. Initial thoughts Ressence watches are instantly recognisable for their inventive and minimalist way of telling the time, using the patented Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) to put a new spin on the classic time display. Using a clever arrangement of planetary gears powered by a base movement, Ressence has achieved an original functional design that remains unique to this day. In terms of design, Ressence has an unmistakable, contemporary look, not unlike that of Apple. As a result, partnerships like those with industrial designer Marc Newson feel natural. The concept behind Ressence’s signature time display is the use of clear silicone-based oil which fills the hermetically sealed ROCS module to the crystal. The fluid medium cancels out total internal reflection, leading to the illusion that the turning disks sit right under the crystal itself. In this respect, Ressence dials can at times look like an OLED screen in a smartwatch. The Type 11 continues the signature streamlined minimalism of past Ressence models, but adopts a less complicated display. There are hours, minutes and seconds, arrange...
SJX Watches
Bonniksen makes its debut with the aptly named Le Carrousel, a 30-second carrousel wristwatch that will launch under the secondary banner of Naissance d’une Montre 4, which means it will be fully handmade. Le Carrousel’s completion date has not been announced, but good things take time, especially when made without the assistance of automated machinery. Left to right: Bonniksen co-founder and CEO Jason Chevrolat, Greubel Forsey CEO Michel Nydeggar, Bonniksen co-founder Maximin Chapuis, and David Bernard from the Time Æon Foundation. Initial thoughts It’s shaping up to be a big year for independent watchmaking, with a number of new and old names making their debuts. Bonniksen is among the latter, and looks to be a good-faith effort to do justice to the legacy of the inventor of the carrousel. While the rebirth of an old name is a familiar (if not tiresome) formula, one can’t help but appreciate the care with which the name of Bonniken makes its return. For one thing, the movement, which still exists only in sketches and models, is a true carrousel, built to co-founder Maximin Chapuis’ design after 5,500 hours of technical research. In other words, it’s not just an old name attached to an off-the-shelf calibre. The fact that it will debut as a Montre 4 in the Naissance d’une Montre project is another reason to take the effort seriously. If that weren’t enough, the brand has apparently been given the blessing of Bonniksen’s living descendants, which helps t...
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.