654 articles · 52 videos found · page 22 of 24
Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko’s Blue Snowflake Spring Drive has pushed the venerable Japanese watchmaker to the top of Chris Malburg's horology charts. After spending considerable time with this timepiece, Chris relates the Snowflake’s triumphs and reveals its shortcomings.
SJX Watches
Having just unveiled the impressive 9SA5 automatic movement in the Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002 as part of its 60th anniversary line-up, Grand Seiko is also rolling out a newly-developed Spring Drive movement – the first with a five-day power reserve and thermocompensation. Unusually, the new calibre is making its debut in a dive watch, the Grand Seiko 600M Professional Diver’s watch (ref. SLGA001). Characterised by large, angular lugs, case design of the new diver is familiar, borrowing from the current Grand Seiko high-frequency dive watches. In short, it’s the typical Grand Seiko diver look, meaning big, bold and chunky, measuring 46.9 mm in diameter and 16 mm high. Both the case and bracelet are made of Seiko’s proprietary “high-intensity” titanium, which 30% lighter than steel and more resistant to scratches, so the size of the SLGA001 does not translate into substantial weight. Likewise, the dark blue dial retains the usual Grand Seiko dive watch styling. Legibility is maximised with large hands and hour markers – both with generous amounts of luminous paint. The date display on the new diver is at four o’clock, instead of the usual three o’clock. But the date is not just a relocation – thanks to the new 9RA5 movement, the date disc jumps at a “greatly increased” speed for a crisper changeover. The 9RA5 While the design of the watch contains no surprises, the Spring Drive movement inside is brand new and incorporates several features originally...
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko’s newest design style – the “Thin Dress” – combines a slightly retro case and dial with the signature hallmarks of the brand like diamond-cut hour markers, while being original in that is not obviously based on a vintage Grand Seiko model. Launched in early 2019 as part of the Elegance Collection, first with quartz and then mechanical models, the new design is used for the flagship Spring Drive SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 – magnificently-crafted watches that unfortunately start at US$57,000. Fortunately, the line-up is diverse enough that it includes an entry-level, mechanical model with a robust price-to-performance ratio, the Elegance Collection “Thin Dress” SBGK007. The SBGK007 is a compact, hand-wound wristwatch with a fairly minimalist design along with a handful of retro elements – in short, it is handsome and slightly vintage in feel. And the SBGK007, along with the rest of the Elegance Collection, was designed after Grand Seiko was spun off from Seiko to create an independent brand. As a result, the watch was designed from the ground up as a Grand Seiko, and perhaps for that reason the dial feels more visually balanced than earlier models that had “Seiko” removed from the dial. Elegant retro The SBGK007 is a compact watch, but sized very well, neither too big nor too small, measuring 39 mm in diameter and 11.6 mm high. Because of the case style and construction, it feels thinner than it measures, while also having a strong vintage vibe i...
SJX Watches
A mechanical watch movement is a tiny-but-complex system made up of components in equilibrium, operating flawlessly. But because the those components are delicate – especially the parts that make up the escapement – its operation can be influenced by external factors, including shock, moisture, and more commonly, the position of the watch, whether on the wrist or off. The position of a watch determines how gravity affects the moving parts of the movement. In other words, the timekeeping of a watch can vary according to whether it is laid on its back or on its side. That resulting variation is known as positional error, and it is largely because of gravity’s effect on the balance wheel – the oscillator in the regulating organ of the movement. Beyond the position of a watch, positional error is also shaped by factors like the amplitude of the balance wheel, the type of hairspring, and the poise of the balance. All are inextricably linked and must be adjusted just right – properly regulated in watchmaking parlance – in order for a watch to have minimal positional error and thus keep good time. [Editor’s note: In this article we’ll just deal with movements constructed traditionally with conventional materials, leaving out silicon-equipped movements, which are still relatively niche.] The Microstella adjustable-mass balance of the Rolex cal. 4030, which is based on the Zenith El Primero A matter of position The position of a watch significantly affects its ac...
Quill & Pad
Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini have a special relationship: the watches that have so far come from this still relatively young collaboration have not only been impressive but also suck you into the world of Lamborghini without a car even being in sight. It is almost like the watchmakers at Roger Dubuis have infused this watch with motor oil and replaced the ticking of the escapement with the growl of an Italian high-performance engine. And the Excalibur Huracán Performante is all the evidence you need!
Time+Tide
Created to celebrate the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko’s prolific Spring Drive movement, SBGY002 is a limited edition dress watch for discerning fans of the Japanese watchmaker’s signature snowflake dial. Hewn from solid 18k yellow gold, the case of the rarified timepiece is signature SBGY and, as a result, measures in at just 38.5mm and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The timelessly elegant Grand Seiko SBGY002 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève's 2019 Chronometry category awards mechanical watches comprising at least one tourbillon and/or a special escapement and/or another development improving chronometry (precision timekeeping). Our panel clearly wishes that there were more empirical evidence for the claims of high precision and is split on the winner. What's your favorite?
SJX Watches
Since its global debut in 2016, the Seiko Presage collection has quickly gained a following for its dials that feature artisanal decoration, usually executed with traditional Japanese crafts such as urushi lacquer and Arita porcelain, but at strikingly affordable prices. Following the launch of the first Presage with a Spring Drive movement (in the past, automatic or hand-wound movements were the norm) a few months ago, the brand has now unveiled a limited-edition automatic with a deep green dial made of fired, vitreous enamel, otherwise known as grand feu enamel in Swiss watchmaking. Inspired by the colour of Japanese cedar trees, the green enamel dial features applied hour markers – instead of the more common printed or painted markers found on enamel dials – paired with rounded dauphine hands. The dial is once again produced by master craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team, who work for Fuji Porcelain Enamel Co., Ltd., one of Japan’s biggest makers of enamelware. The company has been Seiko’s go-to supplier for high-quality enamel dials made on a large scale at relatively low cost, a crucial reason why the Presage watches equipped with enamel dials are eminently affordable. As with a majority of automatic Presage models, the case is in stainless steel and measures 40.8mm wide and 12.4mm in height. It’s simply finished with a bright mirror polish on most surfaces, with the top of the lugs brushed for a little contrast and structure. Visible throu...
Hodinkee
A rare double balance spring tourbillon, in very eye-catching livery.
Time+Tide
Last night, Time+Tide, along with IWC and Kennedy Watches & Jewellery, hosted an intimate gathering at IWC’s Melbourne boutique. And even though it’s officially ticked over to spring, the evening was brisk, so the horological faithful were truly faithful. But once ensconced in the warm, well-lit space, the cold melted away in the presence of … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Wheels up with the new Pilot’s collection at IWC’s Melbourne boutique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Earlier this week we had a look at a few TAG Heuer Tourbillons, including the impressive new Nanograph - with its fancy new carbon escapement and yellow highlights. But we’ve also still got the hots for one of the original models, this all-black beauty clad in ultra-tough ceramic. Dark, meet handsome. Owning a … ContinuedThe post A closer look at TAG Heuer’s Carrera Heuer 02 Tourbillon in black ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: If you missed instalments one and two of our glossary, you might want to quickly check them out, because now we’re in part three, we’re starting to get a little more technical. We’re moving beyond the basic parts and starting to explore how they operate together. Tick tock. Escapement The escapement is a … ContinuedThe post The ultimate watch glossary – advanced edition. Beat rates, pallets and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The National Training Manager for Grand Seiko Corporation of America will discuss the history of the Spring Drive mechanism.
Deployant
The new Grand Seiko Elegance collection which marks the 20th anniversary of Spring Drive, reveals a new manual-winding thin dress series. The collection is made up of four different models, with the most talked about model, the Platinum SBGZ001 with a hammered case and snowflake dial.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Anxious about reference numbers? Confused by Spring Drive? You’re not alone. But don’t worry, we’ve got your back. Here’s a handy video guide to explain the ins and outs of Grand Seiko … I’m sure everyone reading this has, at some point, felt that feeling of utter bewilderment of being in a conversation about … ContinuedThe post 10 things you’ve always wanted to know about Grand Seiko, but were too afraid to ask … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
One of the strongest themes in Grand Seiko’s Basel 2019 showing was the pivot to dressy, slightly thinner pieces. We saw two new movements (both mechanical and Spring Drive) cased in a range of (typically gorgeous) new models. And while Grand Seiko’s design hallmarks are there - namely in the exceptional dials and the quality … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 4 new watches that herald Grand Seiko’s dressy revolution appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s been an excellent crop of new releases for Grand Seiko, and hiding amidst a healthy assortment of models came this gem - the yellow gold SBGY002. Using a new hand-winding 9R31 Spring Drive movement with a power reserve of 72 hours, the new piece mates a variation of the brand’s iconic Snowflake dial with a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Grand Seiko’s SBGY002, a hot new hand-wound take on the Snowflake appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New Prospex LIne, with 3 sporting adventure. One for Land, one for Sky and one for Sea. Two models for each, one in Ti and Ti with black super hard coating. Making 6 watches in this line, all 44.8mm. All on Spring Drive movements. Starting with the Land runs on the 5R66 with GMT andRead More
Deployant
We are at the Seiko booth. And begin with the 20th Anniversary of the Spring Drive with four new watches with two new calibers. All are handwound featuring double mainspring in a single barrel. The two new movements are 9R02 and 9R31. The 9R02 is equipped with the torque return system to give a powerRead More
Time+Tide
There’s a unifying theme to Grand Seiko’s 2019 collection – and no, it’s not the exquisite dials or case work, though those are all very much in evidence. No, this year it’s all about the mighty Spring Drive, a movement (which we’ve explained here) that is unique to Grand Seiko, and appropriately enough, 20 years … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Our pick of the best Grand Seiko watches of 2019, fresh from Baselworld appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
I immediately sized the new Strapcode Jubilee and I was blown away - this Jubilee bracelet screams quality. Even the spring bars are nice. The fitted end links, folding clasp, and links are all machined out of solid metal.
Time+Tide
Really, at the heart of the appeal of a mechanical watch is the ticking, whirring escapement that sets the pace. That and the assemblage of wheel and bridges that powers and supports it. So it’s apt then that this Rado cuts to the core quickly: the True Open Heart lives up to its name, exposing … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: What becomes of the open hearted – the Rado True Open Heart appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]While Grand Seiko has a history of producing dive watches, they were always equipped with a Spring Drive movement well sought-after by recreational divers. But for the first time this...
Revolution
Nomos came out bang on trend at this year’s Baselworld with a spring quartet of Tetra models in delicious, delicate pastel shades.
Deployant
Zenith redefines its Gravity Control with the new Defy Zero G. The watch uses the gimbal concept to house the escapement, which adds a gyroscopic element to timekeeping. Visually, the watch is stunning as is it a technically challenging production.
Time+Tide
Over the last few weeks, all eyes have been on the major watch auctions taking place around the world, with more than a few standout results achieved for several interesting and unique watches. Wrapping up the spring sale season, Phillips yesterday held the Hong Kong Watch Auction: Six, with a total of 231 lots going … ContinuedThe post NEWS: This season’s last watch auction delivers 4 unique watches you’ve probably never seen, and may never see again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
In conjunction with the 10th anniversary of the Credor Spring Drive Eichi, Japanese powerhouse Seiko have introduced a new version of the landmark timepiece to the pantheon of high horology. Here, we bring you the details and our thoughts on the Credor Eichi II, now in rose gold.
Time+Tide
In the wonderful world of Grand Seiko, if it’s not using a quartz crystal – and, yes, that includes the Spring Drive – then inside is a Caliber 9S movement. Introduced in 1998, the Caliber 9S is the staple of all mechanical Grand Seikos and forms the base for everything from humble three-handers to hi-beats … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic Hi-Beat GMT “Special” Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When Raymond Weil designed the Calibre RW1212, their first ever in-house design (produced by Sellita), I suspect part of the mandate was to show it off, hence the open escapement prominently on display - literally showing off a movement they’re rightfully proud of. Well, Raymond Weil doubled down at Basel 2018, exposing not just the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Raymond Weil bares all with the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Aurel Bacs tells Revolution stories of how some of the world’s most desirable timepieces have found their way into Phillips Watches Spring 2018 catalogs.
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