Hodinkee
Hands-On: Citizen's Latest Titanium Dive Watch Is Neo Vintage Without The Weight
An old-school design reborn in titanium.
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Hodinkee
An old-school design reborn in titanium.
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After looking at some of the highlights of independent watchmaking and unorthodox sports watches at Sotheby’s upcoming sale in Hong Kong, our final instalment covering notable lots is all about avant-garde complications – most of which are far more affordable than the original retail prices suggest. Naturally the selection is by big-ticket mega watches such as the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, but it includes several more creative and intriguing watches that aren’t widely known. Amongst them are a pair of Harry Winstons with exceptionally complex reinterpretations of the tourbillon, along with a Ulysse Nardin featuring a pulley-operated retrograde hand. Important Watches I starts at 10:00 am (GMT +8) on October 5, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2171: Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon Best know for the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, Girard-Perregaux (GP) counts far more complex iterations of the tourbillon amongst its offerings, including this tri-axial tourbillon. Though launched in 2014, the tri-axial tourbillon remains the most complicated tourbillon from GP. It consists of two nested tourbillon carriages with two different axes of rotation, which are then mounted onto a third rotating track that adds another dimension of rotation, resulting in the triple axis motion. Unsurprisingly, the tourbillon assembly is extremely complicated – it consists of almost 150 parts – and takes ...
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Any Marvel fan, like me, had a fantastic week upon hearing the news that not only is Deadpool 3 on the way, but that Hugh Jackman is coming out of role-retirement to play Wolverine in the film once more. We all believed that Logan was Jackman’s last outing as the most recognisable member of the … ContinuedThe post Ryan Reynolds vs Hugh Jackman: Which superhero does watches better? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Titanium watches aren’t anything new by any stretch of the imagination. When Citizen unveiled the world’s first titanium wristwatch in 1970, the lightweight and hypoallergenic properties of the metal were an incredible development for the industry, but a lot has changed in the last 50 years. Titanium has been well and truly democratised in the … ContinuedThe post Should titanium watches really be more expensive than the steel equivalent? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Delma brings back the Quattro, originally presented in the 1980s and having garnered significant popularity in the US market, now upgraded with modern materials and an automatic movement. But the new Delma Quattro aims to be more than just a run-of-the-mill dive watch, with specs worthy of plenty of reef cred. No-nonsense diver’s layout Round features … ContinuedThe post The Delma Quattro is a deep-dive special with plenty of reef cred appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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It’s hard to believe RZE have only been around for two years, but they are one of the ultimate microbrand success stories. Having released their first watch in the heart of the 2020 Coronavirus pandemic, nobody particularly expected the emerging business to survive, but during that period, online watch sales skyrocketed. In particular, RZE found … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Valour 38 delivers a titanium field watch for under $300 USD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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A French watchmaking startup founded in 2017 that successfully reimagined several well-known vintage designs, Baltic has just unveiled highest-spec dive watch to date – and arguably its most contemporary design. While still clearly vintage-inspired in terms of aesthetics, the Aquascaphe Titanium does better than its predecessor in terms of materials, construction, as well as water resistance. The result is a more substantial watch that’s pricier but still value minded. The bezel insert is brushed ceramic with luminous markings Initial thoughts For a brand that’s heavily reliant on vintage watches for insrpaiton, the Aquascaphe Titanium is a welcome departure from its other offerings. Granted it still retains a retro feel, but does so with materials that are decidedly modern, namely ceramic and titanium. On the subject of materials, one aspect that distinguishes the new Aquascaphe is the highly-domed sapphire crystal that calls to mind PlexiGlas found on vintage watches. Rarely found in modern dive watches at this price, most of which utilise flat crystals, the domed crystal results in slight visual distortion of the dial’s edges, which might not help legibility but certainly adds to the vintage feel. Another key detail that contributes to the appealing vintage styling is the all-brushed finish on both the case and bezel, along with the tasteful typography, which speak to the brand’s attention to detail. At the same time, the design that combines smart details w...
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Zodiac has enjoyed something of a resurgence lately, with bold colour choices for their vintage-inspired Super Sea Wolf divers and GMTs. To celebrate their 140th birthday, Zodiac is introducing the new Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver Titanium, a piece that is set to sit at the very top of their offering. Like many Zodiac releases, the … ContinuedThe post The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver Titanium brings the summertime funk appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Singapore retailer Cortina Watch is marking its 50th year in 2022 with progressive launches of anniversary editions, which started with the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5057G that made its debut at the beginning of the year. Now it’s the turn of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary, the first of the brand’s dive watches to feature a two-tone case in titanium and 18k Sedna gold. Initial thoughts The Bathyscaphe is probably the best looking amongst Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms range of dive watches. It has the right degree of retro style, while also being relatively compact and wearable. And it avoids being too different, too vintage, or too big, as many of other Fifty Fathoms divers are; the Bathyscaphe is just right in many ways. The new edition is a modest variation on the original, but a good one. In contrast to the almost-monochromatic standard model, this version looks a little fancier without being over the top thanks to its gold elements. At the same time, the gold parts are balanced; the bezel, for instance, is set off by the gold crown. But the look is restrained with the brushed bezel insert and dial, so it doesn’t stray too far from the original. What the watch is missing, however, is a bracelet as it is delivered on a fabric strap as standard. Blancpain does have a titanium bracelet available as an additional purchase, however, it is not two tone though it should pair well with this watch. Retro diver Though inspired by th...
Hodinkee
Three words that will make any Patek collector's heart race: titanium unique piece.
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Deployant
A. Lange & Söhne presents the new Odysseus in titanium, the brand's first limited edition sports watch and it's first watch in titanium.
Deployant
Lange adds their first titanium watch they have ever made to the Odysseus collection, also with a new titanium bracelet. Limited Editon of 250 pieces.
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Debuted three years ago, the Odysseus is still a one-model collection with the Datomatic, though versions in different metals are steadily added to the family. And the latest is the most intriguing to date, because the Odysseus is entirely clad in titanium, marking a first for the German watchmaker. Initial thoughts The expansion rate of the Odysseus collection is surprisingly slow given most of its peers have quickly added complicated models such as a chronograph rather soon. But thankfully the Odysseus titanium is an interesting addition, despite being simply the result of a change in the material. It is indeed the material that distinguishes the latest, not just from its counterparts but also from the competitors. A natural choice for sports watches, titanium is nevertheless uncommon amongst luxury sports watches, especially when combined with Lange’s peerless finishing. And Lange certainly knows it’s special, because it is the first limited-edition Odysseus, ever. It’s also the priciest, costing about 40% more than the white gold model, which is exorbitant to say the least – and slightly opportunistic – but demand will doubtlessly outstrip supply. Titanium and more While the use of titanium is intruiguing, that alone is certainly not enough to make for a compelling Odysseus, just because Lange has set a high bar for watchmaking. And it doesn’t disappoint. On top of being end-to-end titanium, the finishing on the case and bracelet is also entirely different....
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin finally launches an all titanium Overseas watch, case and bracelet at Watches & Wonders 2022
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Sports watches were once truly tool watches. A chronograph was a stopwatch on the wrist, a dive watch with a timing bezel was the original dive computer. But today, the idea that either are the best tools for the job is a bit romantic. They definitely can get it done, and that is part of … ContinuedThe post It’s Nautilus vs Aquanaut as Brooklyn Beckham & James Corden have a steak / frites cook-off while wearing Pateks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Zenith has been on a real hot-streak as of late, coming in strong for LVMH Watch Week with some very intriguing pieces such as the Defy Revival A3642, Defy Skyline collection, and Defy 21 Chroma among others. Whether heritage revivals, or next-generation collections, Zenith with each design continues to attract today’s buyers with their creations. While … ContinuedThe post Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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With Hublot, the most intimidating barrier for me was often the larger sizing their references were typically produced in. Hublot, unapologetically, favours larger diameters as the canvas for their bold personality and mastery of materials. Personally, I felt excluded from the party at times, liking the brand’s novelties but not being prepared to tackle their … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Time Only brings 40mm to titanium, ceramic and 18K yellow gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best judging by the online traffic. At number 15, it’s the Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph Petrol Blue Titanium… Longines have been leading the nostalgia bandwagon for years now. Their Heritage … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph Petrol Blue Titanium (#15) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Just last year, IWC debuted its smallest Big Pilot’s Watch to date. Smaller, but not small, the latest Big Pilot is 43 mm, leaving it very much large and legible, but more wearable. The brand quickly followed up with the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire, which shares the same proportions but in new styles and materials. Two variants are available: titanium or bronze, but the standout is definitely the model in the lightweight metal. Initial thoughts The original Big Pilot’s Watch 43 is intrinsically appealing, being large enough to be an oversized aviator’s instrument, but small enough to sit relatively comfortable on wrist. That contrasts with the original Big Pilot, which is 46.5 mm in diameter. With the original version selling well, the addition of the Spitfire editions is natural. The aesthetic of Spitfire editions is clearly different from the that of the standard model in steel, which is good news for enthusiasts who want something more interesting. History fanatics, however, might frown at the dial design. Of the two Spitfire versions, the one in titanium stands out for its unusual, historically-inspired dial (though it’s not exactly historically accurate since IWC didn’t produce a B-uhr with such a dial; more on that below). And it also has an atypical case finish that mimics a worn, vintage case. On the other hand, the bronze version is identical to the steel model save for the bronze case and green dial – in fact it sticks to the same formula applied...
Deployant
The Chopard Alpine Eagle collection welcomes a new XL Chrono in ethical 18k rose gold and ceramised titanium with a calfskin leather strap.
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Whisper it quietly, but earlier this week was Alexander Skarsgard really responsible for instigating the unthinkable and taking down Waystar RoyCo? Of all the formidable actors in Hollywood, it speaks volumes of the 45-year-old Swede that Succession’s head honchos cast him as GoJo CEO Lukas Mattson, believing he was best equipped to not only match Brian … ContinuedThe post WHO WORE IT BEST? Alexander Skarsgard vs Tom Brady and the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Longines extends its Spirit collection with a titanium field watch inspired by military and aviation timepieces from its archives, in two case sizes.
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The future King of England and the 46th POTUS share a certain Omega Seamaster in common. Last month in Glasgow for the COP26 climate change conference, Prince William and Joe Biden were seen sharing a warm embrace and laughing together. Whether or not the pair were joking about the American president’s flatulence issues that William’s … ContinuedThe post WHO WORE IT BEST? Prince William vs Joe Biden battle it out with the Omega Seamaster Diver 300m appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel opened last year with its first limited edition, a pair of watches by Baltic. Now the French brand is once again creating a limited-edition series of watches for Perpétuel, the UAE 50th Anniversary Titanium Collection. The three-piece limited edition is marks the first time that Baltic is using titanium for its cases, which have all been steel to date. And as is expected, the maker of affordable, vintage-inspired watches has customised the edition for Perpétuel’s home region, with all three watches having Eastern-Arabic numerals on the dials (as well as the bezel in the case of the GMT). Initial thoughts Baltic’s standard models are appealing because they have a simple, vintage-inspired style that’s nothing too fancy but still attractive, plus they are strongly affordable. The tweaks made to the designs for the Perpetual editions are modest but boost the charm of the watches. I especially like the HMS and Chronograph. While the sector-ish dial is a familiar vintage look, the two-tone finish is fairly novel and also striking. And the graceful calligraphy of the Eastern-Arabic numerals complement the design and colours well. The Eastern-Arabic numerals on the GMT bezel don’t work as well for me. One reason is stylistic – the simple forms of the hour markers don’t match the elegant Arabic script. And the other is functional since I am unfamiliar with the script so the bezel is difficult to read, which won’t be a problem for an...
Revolution
URWERK introduces the UR-100V Full Titanium Jacket at Dubai Watch Week 2021, in sandblasted titanium with a 32-link sandblasted titanium bracelet
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