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Type XX Breguet

The 1954 French military flyback chronograph - reborn in-house in 2023.
Strap Review: RSM’s Luxurious Silk Straps (and a More Rugged Camo Option) Worn & Wound
Feb 19, 2024

Strap Review: RSM’s Luxurious Silk Straps (and a More Rugged Camo Option)

There comes a time when we must find the right shoes to strap our favorite watches onto our wrists. And let’s face it, we live in a time where there are many options to choose from at many price points. Besides the popular NATO-style straps and Tropic-style rubber straps, we all sorta need a good leather one in our arsenal. Or perhaps a soft perlon for these hotter days of the year. At the risk of generalizing a tad too much, I’d say that we more or less see the same straps being offered on the market everyday. And thus shopping for straps becomes a little bit overwhelming and boring just the same. Sometimes, however, a brand creates something new or proposes a fresh take on a popular style. And that’s what we’re going to talk about today.  Based in Singapore, RSM has been offering unique collections of well-made straps at competitive prices since 2019. The brand started with a single-pass Herringbone Twill strap and has evolved quite a bit since. While it offers poly-cotton and various types of robust polyester straps, today we’re going to focus on two of RSM’s most recent creations: 2-piece and reversible silk straps as well as a 2-piece and one-piece Camo that has more than a few tricks up its sleeves. What will perhaps become immediately apparent is that RSM goes the extra mile to make their straps look and feel special. Whether it is how it came about finding an artisanal silk maker or new ways to weave polyester fibers together.  While most straps we se...

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Oak & Oscar’s New Limited Edition is the Perfect Match for Bourbon Lovers Worn & Wound
Oak & Oscar Dec 6, 2023

Oak & Oscar’s New Limited Edition is the Perfect Match for Bourbon Lovers

If you’ve met Chase Fancher, founder of Oak & Oscar, you probably know that he’s something of a bourbon enthusiast. I’m not saying you’ll be plied with the stuff if you come hang out at his booth at a Windup, but I’m not saying that’s definitively off the table, either. So it wasn’t a huge surprise when news came across the transom that Oak & Oscar’s latest limited edition is a thoughtful collaboration with FEW Spirits, whose founder and master distiller Paul Hletko is a personal friend of Chase’s. The new watch, a variation on Oak & Oscar’s popular Olmsted, the brand’s 38mm field watch, has plenty of little Easter eggs for bourbon lovers, but is also just a great looking execution of what has become a signature referenced.  Those Easter eggs are threefold. First, the dial the color of the Olmsted FEW is a dark salmon tone lifted directly from FEW’s own color palette. It should be immediately recognizable to fans of the FEW spirits, but is also an altogether appealing shade in its own right, and represents Oak & Oscar’s first attempt at a salmon dial, a color that has taken off in popularity (and proven to be highly versatile in a huge variety of watches) over the last few years. Second, and this is somewhat standard on these types of collaborations, the FEW logo is displayed near the 6:00 position. Besides the FEW and Oak & Oscar branding, the dial is quite clean, without any excess text, and lets the color shine (but, not literally, because it...

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Auction Watch: Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5110G Prototype Dial at Sotheby’s SJX Watches
Patek Philippe World Time Ref 5110G Nov 3, 2023

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5110G Prototype Dial at Sotheby’s

One of the interesting lots this auction season in Geneva is the Patek Philippe ref. 5110G world time with a prototype dial at Sotheby’s. Scheduled to go under the hammer on November 5, 2023, the watch fitted with a monochromatic printed dial marked “Prototype”. Patek Philippe prototypes, or even prototype dials, rarely emerge in public, so this world time is notable in itself. Another recent example of a prototype was the Aquanaut prototype that sold at Antiquorum in 2019 featuring a “comet” power reserve that was never found on the regular production model. Unlike the Aquanaut prototype, however, this world time only has a prototype dial. The watch itself is a standard ref. 5110G that’s accompanied by the usual guilloche dial as well as an archive extract. According to Sotheby’s, the consignor of the watch is a watchmaker who worked at Patek Philippe for many years, so he presumably installed the prototype dial on a regular production ref. 5110G. Although simpler than the standard dial, the prototype dial is certainly more interesting. The central portion is a plain, flat white with black print, while the cities disc is off white. The dial is hardly fancy but possesses a clean, functional aesthetic that is strangely appealing. Moreover it runs counter to the prevailing Patek Philippe aesthetic that favours guilloche and applied numerals, making it visually unique. The simplicity of the dial, however, means it might have been a test dial installed in a proto...

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: Par(x) Tees Off with Debut Collection Featuring a Game Changing Fabric Technology, an Extremely Rare Leica that Started It All & Accidentally Uncovering Norway’s Treasure of the Century Worn & Wound
Sep 9, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Par(x) Tees Off with Debut Collection Featuring a Game Changing Fabric Technology, an Extremely Rare Leica that Started It All & Accidentally Uncovering Norway’s Treasure of the Century

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Par(x) Par(x) Debuts Inaugural Collection Featuring A Game Changing Fabric Technology  Via Par(x) It seems that now, more than ever, the sport of golf has increased in popularity and its influence has stretched far beyond the fairway, spawning the likes of golf-centric apparel brands, sport-specific podcasts, community-based meetups, and even a watch designed to help keep your scorecard accurate. However, there is one brand that we think you should keep your eye on, and they go by the name, Par(x). Via Par(x) Par(x) offers up a diverse catalog designed to take you from course to cafe (and back to the course for a second round), with each piece featuring a new and impressive fabric technology known as Filium® Activation. Filium® Activation transforms any type of fabric, whether that be cotton, silk or wool, into a water-repelling, fast drying, odor free garment without losing its original makeup. The brand has already been field testing their products out on the U.S Open tour and we’ve seen first-hand an ordinary cotton t-shirt with Filium® Activation shrug o...

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J.N. Shapiro Launches the Resurgence, the First U.S. Made Mechanical Watch Since 1969 Worn & Wound
Hamilton watches rolled off May 22, 2023

J.N. Shapiro Launches the Resurgence, the First U.S. Made Mechanical Watch Since 1969

It’s not hyperbole to say that this is an historic day in American watchmaking history. J.N. Shapiro, the California based indie known primarily for their beautiful engine turned dials, has announced a new American made watch. According to the brand, this is the first mechanical watch that can be accurately described as “Made in America” since 1969, when the last American made Hamilton watches rolled off the production line. It’s a big deal, and a big step for a watchmaker that has been very much on the rise in recent years, taking on more complex production challenges with every new release. From dials, to cases, to movements, Shapiro can now claim a watch where virtually every component is made in a single workshop.  The watch, which Shapiro has dubbed the Resurgence, is the culmination of 12 years of learned experience among Shapiro and his team. At a glance, it has all of the aesthetic hallmarks of any Shapiro watch. A highly detailed multi level dial, for one, accented with intricate engine turning that has become Shapiro’s hallmark. What sets this watch apart, though, is the movement, which is not only beautiful to look at, with healthy doses of anglage, bridges with a distinct Damaskeening pattern (the American equivalent of Côtes de Genève), and rounded spokes on the caliber’s wheels, but has been designed and fabricated entirely in the United States. Shapiro produced his first movement prototypes in 2019, and that has led to the caliber at work in t...

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The Black Bay’s Back, Alright! Tudor Launches the New Black Bay 54 and more Worn & Wound
Tudor Launches Mar 27, 2023

The Black Bay’s Back, Alright! Tudor Launches the New Black Bay 54 and more

We never know what to expect from Tudor at Watches & Wonders, and, well, they didn’t let us down in the surprise department this year, including with a new Black Bay model featuring a – get this – 37mm case. If you had called that one, you might be a psychic. But that was hardly it, we saw a new dial of the GMT, and the return of the Black Bay Burgundy, but with a METAS flavored surprise. The Black Bay’s Back – alright, let’s get into it. I recall being kind of blown away at Basel 2018 when Tudor launched the Black Bay 58. A 39mm Tudor dive watch! I couldn’t really believe it, as common as it might seem today. Well, today Tudor bested themselves once again with the Black Bay 54, a 37mm spiritual recreation of Tudor’s first dive watch, the 7922 from 1954. What you’ll find in the BB54 is a mashup of new (well, vintage-inspired new) and old, in, essentially, a scaled-down BB58. The case is said to have the proportions of the 7922 at 37mm x 11.24mm with 20mm lugs. Additionally, the bezel insert copies the layout of the 7922’s. The insert is black, and features numerals at intervals of 10 in a thin typeface, alternating with blocky rectangles that feel just a hair larger than they should be, but in keeping with the proportions of the original. It’s the kind of quirk that adds personality and quickly sets it apart from its slightly more contemporary siblings. I’m sure plenty of people will be excited to see that markings maintain the tone of the metal bel...

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The new Yema Rallye 5 Turbo goes deep into French car racing Time+Tide
Yema Mar 22, 2023

The new Yema Rallye 5 Turbo goes deep into French car racing

Since 1948, Yema has been producing reliable sports watches that come with a unique visual DNA. Best known for the Superman Heritage diver, Yema has been producing many types of chronographs over the past few decades. From Meca-Quartz to full automatic, the French brand releases a new collection every year, if not more often. Each … ContinuedThe post The new Yema Rallye 5 Turbo goes deep into French car racing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Pristine 1991 Jaguar XJR-15, NOCS Provision’s Voyager, & Air Force One Going Supersonic? Worn & Wound
Feb 25, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Pristine 1991 Jaguar XJR-15, NOCS Provision’s Voyager, & Air Force One Going Supersonic?

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Sotheby’s Get Your Group C Racing On With This Barely-Driven Jaguar XJR-15 Via Sotheby’s Lately we’ve got Group C racing on the mind and that’s no thanks to Autodromo’s recent release. If you haven’t checked out their latest offering, you should stop reading and see it here. This week, another Group C racing related thing crossed our radar, but it wasn’t a watch. Currently on the Sotheby’s auction block is a 1991 Jaguar XJR-15 in pristine condition. This devilishly cool looking piece of machinery is only 1 of 27 ever made and is the production version of the Group C Sports-Prototype Jaguar XJR-9. We’ll save the specs listed in the auction description, as we’d rather spend time just drooling over the curves and lines of this XJR-15. The odometer on this thing currently reads 153 miles. One hundred fifty three. It’s barely lived a life. A word of advice to whoever wins the auction, which by the way is estimated to fetch upwards of $1.5 mil, drive this thing! And we’ll all be ready to snap a photo when you zip by. See Further & Look Cool Doing...

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Watch Sizes vs. Wrist Sizes: What’s the Right Size for You? Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 15, 2023

Watch Sizes vs. Wrist Sizes: What’s the Right Size for You?

One of the most important factors one considers when choosing a new watch is the watch's size - as in, its appropriateness relative to the size of one's own wrist as well as the general statement that it's making on said wrist. Trying watches on before buying them is, of course, the easiest and most sensible way to determine these factors, but when you're buying watches online, like so many of us are these days, the eyeballing and hands-on experience must give way to some carefully conducted research instead. Here we pose and answer (to the best of our knowledge and experience) some of the questions a prospective online watch purchaser is likely to have regarding watch sizes and wrist sizes.  What watch size is right for my wrist? While there are obviously some practical calculations that you can make, it all comes down to comfort and personal style. Some people with very slender wrists like to rock a big, attention-grabbing timepiece, and occasionally a linebacker type with thicker forearms might prefer to keep it more subtle with a smaller watch that hides under a sleeve. Acknowledging that these tend to be the outliers, however, most watch wearers will want some aesthetic harmony between their watch size and wrist size, which means that you’ll want to get an accurate idea of both actual measurements. This is particularly important if you’re buying a watch online without actually physically trying it on. You can measure your wrist size easily by wrapping a ...

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[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Seiko SSK001 is the Best Affordable GMT Out There, But Will it Stand the Test of Time? Worn & Wound
Seiko SSK001 Feb 2, 2023

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Seiko SSK001 is the Best Affordable GMT Out There, But Will it Stand the Test of Time?

In watches, like all things in life, everything comes back full circle. My watch collecting journey has meandered through different types of watches, spanning all shapes and sizes. There was a time where my collection had ballooned to a number that my watch box couldn’t accommodate. More recently, it has shrunk to a number that I can count on one hand. Very manageable, even by watch enthusiast’s standards. But despite the watches of past and present, there will always be that one watch that started it all – the Seiko SKX. I’m not talking about the ubiquitous Seiko SKX 007. No, not at all. The watch that kicked off this wild journey within this hobby, and ultimately led me to typing these actual words for you to read at your leisure, was the Seiko SKX013. The Seiko SKX diver format, in a more compact wearing case, suited my preferences at the time. It’s the watch that opened Pandora’s box to all sorts of things in, and out of horology. From figuring out how to change out straps (from that rattley jubilee) and learning about the history of the dive watch, to actually getting me into the sport of surfing. Through thick and thin, the SKX013 has always taken up a spot in the quiver. My beloved Seiko SKX013 (Left) & my brand new Seiko SSK001 GMT (Right) Side By Side $475 [VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Seiko SSK001 is the Best Affordable GMT Out There, But Will it Stand the Test of Time? Case Stainless Steel Movement Caliber 4R34 Dial Black Lume LumiBrite Lens Hardlex ...

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Watches with Tachymeters: How They Work and Our 15 Top Tachymeter Watc Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 15, 2022

Watches with Tachymeters: How They Work and Our 15 Top Tachymeter Watc

It's a common refrain in the watch collector community that chronographs are one of the most popular complications while at the same time being one of the least practical in day-to-day life. Many of the most famous chronograph watches are also equipped with tachymeter scales, and while fans of these watches mostly agree that they look very cool, few of them have ever used the scale with the stopwatch function, and many wouldn't really know how. Nevertheless, the tachymeter on a watch was invented for a utilitarian, practical purpose once upon a time and it's worth briefly exploring those origins and exploring those capabilities. Essentially, a tachymeter (also called a tachometer) is a numerical scale on a watch’s dial or bezel that is used in conjunction with a chronograph seconds hand to measure an object’s speed over a predetermined distance. It is often used to determine miles or kilometers per hour and is thus a common feature of chronograph watches whose design is inspired by automobile racing; we'll showcase several icons of that category in our list below. Unlike divers’ watch bezels, which should rotate in one direction to set dive times, or other types of bezel scales used for calculations and conversions, like the circular slide rule on Breitling’s Navitimer, most of which are bidirectional, a tachymeter scale bezel should be fixed. The numerical scale typically starts around the 6- or 7-second marker on the minute track, and is usually indicated in ...

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HANDS ON: The Hamilton Ventura XXL Skeleton and Ventura S Time+Tide
Hamilton Ventura XXL Skeleton Oct 5, 2022

HANDS ON: The Hamilton Ventura XXL Skeleton and Ventura S

One of the best things about Hamilton is the way in which they’ve continued to deliver to the customers they’ve always aimed to please - watch lovers without astronomical budgets. Although mechanical watches are inherently a luxury to some degree,  Hamilton continue to hit the spot with some of the best value Swiss watches out … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Hamilton Ventura XXL Skeleton and Ventura S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf: My Once Predicted Winner For This Year’s ‘Best Chronograph’ At The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Quill & Pad
MB&F; Aug 20, 2022

Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf: My Once Predicted Winner For This Year’s ‘Best Chronograph’ At The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

When Tim and Bart Grönefeld showed Ian Skellern their prototype 1941 Grönograaf during Watches & Wonders 2022, he loved it. But he didn’t think it would win “Best Chronograph” 2022 at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève because he thought that prize would go to the then-soon-to-be-released MB&F; LM Sequential EVO. Ian has since changed his mind, and here's why.

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Daniel Craig’s NTTD Seamaster up for auction, BioCeramic Fifty Fathoms prototype, and Horology Forum is coming to NYC Time+Tide
Jul 29, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Daniel Craig’s NTTD Seamaster up for auction, BioCeramic Fifty Fathoms prototype, and Horology Forum is coming to NYC

Welcome to the Friday Wind Down where we’re going to dig into some of the biggest watch news from the week.   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Time+Tide (@timetidewatches) This morning Christie’s unveiled their “Sixty Years of Bond” charity auction, which they are presenting in partnership with EON Productions. The … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Daniel Craig’s NTTD Seamaster up for auction, BioCeramic Fifty Fathoms prototype, and Horology Forum is coming to NYC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hamilton is ready to rock with the new Ventura XXL and Ventura S Time+Tide
Hamilton Jun 4, 2022

Hamilton is ready to rock with the new Ventura XXL and Ventura S

The first battery-powered watch, and the one that graced the famous wrists of Elvis, Will Smith and Tommy Lee Jones – still doesn’t quite sum up the Hamilton Ventura for me. Throw in a line about its military-derived styling somehow combined with stepped Art Deco-like lugs, and we’re getting somewhere. Today, the Ventura is no … ContinuedThe post Hamilton is ready to rock with the new Ventura XXL and Ventura S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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My 5 favourite lots from the Ineichen Royal 50 auction on May 28 - with no buyer’s premium! Time+Tide
May 24, 2022

My 5 favourite lots from the Ineichen Royal 50 auction on May 28 - with no buyer’s premium!

Ineichen Auctioneers are known for their thematic auctions, whether it’s focusing on blue dials for “Precious Blues” or the rose-gold themed “La Vie en Rose” auction earlier this year. They also have a pioneering spirit – their most recent Joker XXX auction consisted of a three-piece set including a piece unique watch, Porsche 911, and … ContinuedThe post My 5 favourite lots from the Ineichen Royal 50 auction on May 28 – with no buyer’s premium! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Richard Habring’s Personal IWC Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph Prototype Ref. 3712 At Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII: A Unique Piece Of Horological History Quill & Pad
IWC Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph Prototype May 1, 2021

Richard Habring’s Personal IWC Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph Prototype Ref. 3712 At Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII: A Unique Piece Of Horological History

Lot 165 at Phillips' Geneva Watch Auction: XIII on May 8-9, 2021 is one of the most important prototypes in the history of IWC. A true rarity and a true piece of watch history. It is Richard Habring’s personal Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph prototype. Elizabeth Doerr shares its history and meaning here. And why its creator is parting with it.

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Vianney Halter Returns with the Deep Space Resonance SJX Watches
Jan 8, 2021

Vianney Halter Returns with the Deep Space Resonance

After a seven-year hiatus since the launch of his last watch, Vianney Halter is back with the Deep Space Resonance. Unveiled in prototype form but slated for delivery in summer 2021, the Deep Space Resonance is an impressively complex watch – the tourbillon assembly alone is 371 parts – that builds on the Deep Space Tourbillon of 2013. Like its predecessor, the new watch is also a triple-axis tourbillon, but now equipped with a pair of hairsprings and balance wheels within the tourbillon – both of which beat in acoustic resonance according to Mr Halter. Initial thoughts The Deep Space Resonance is a unique complication, to a degree. It’s a first in combining a triple-axis tourbillon with double balance wheels beating in acoustic, rather than mechanical, resonance. And the incorporation of the acoustic resonance phenomenon is also a first in watchmaking as far as I know, though it is somewhat fuzzy in terms of how it enhances the functioning of the watch. The tourbillon and its driving wheels The closest anyone else has come to this is Beat Haldimann with his H2 that has a flying tourbillon rotating on a single plane but with twin, mechanically-resonating balance wheels. Still, arriving as it is in 2021, the Deep Space Resonance feels overdue. The best known mechanical-resonance wristwatches came long before: the Haldimann H2 made its debut in 2005, while the better-known F.P Journe Resonance in 2000. And the Philippe Dufour Duality, which relies on twin balance w...

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Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction XI SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Mr Newson has long Nov 13, 2020

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction XI

With the Geneva watch auctions having just concluded – and notching up a US$1.51 million record for a Philippe Dufour Simplicity – it’s now Hong Kong’s turn. Taking place at end November, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XI includes a compact selection of independent watchmaking, most of which are notably affordable. Here’s a look at a few highlights, including the prototype of the sold-out S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin that will be sold to benefit charity. The auction happens on November 29  at the JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, while the catalogue and online bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 801 – Marc Newson Hour Glass Perhaps the quintessential timekeeper designed by Marc Newson, the Hour Glass is a timekeeper filled with nanoballs”, tiny steel spheres that are coated in gold – specifically, a little under 1.25 million of them. An industrial design known for his Lockheed Lounge and the work for brands like Qantas and Louis Vuitton, Mr Newson has long dabbled in designing watches and clocks. The Hour Glass was unveiled in 2010 by Ikepod, the watch brand cofounded by Mr Newson that later went bust. It’s a single piece of glass that’s formed by hand with a blowtorch, a rigorous process that requires skill and finesse, which explains the price despite its simplicity. This Hour Glass is the smallest version in the line up, standing 15 cm high, making it a convenient object for the desk. It’s a 10-minute timer; the medium and large versions are 3...

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